LOS    GRINGOS. 


LOS  GEINGOS: 


AN  INSIDE  VIEW  OF  MEXICO  AND  CALIFORNIA,  WITH  WAN- 
DERINGS IN   PERU,  CHILI,  AND   POLYNESIA. 


BY  LIEUT.  WISE.  U.S.N, 


NEW  YORK : 
BAKER    AND    SGRIBNER, 

145    NASSAU   STREET   AND   30   PARK   ROW. 

1849. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress  in  the  year  1849,  by 

BAKER    AND     S  C  R  I  B  N  E  R , 

In  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States  for  the  Southern 
District  of  New  York. 


•      Printed  by 
C.    W.    BENEDICT, 
301  William  street. 


PREFACE, 

THE  title — Los  Gringos — with  which  this  volume  has  been  chris- 
tened, is  the  epithet — and  rather  a  reproachful  one — used  in 
California  and  Mexico  to  designate  the  descendants  of  the  Anglo- 
Saxon  race  ;  the  definition  of  the  word  is  somewhat  similar  to 
that  of  Greenhorns,  in  modern  parlance,  or  Mohawks  in  the  days 
of  the  Spectator.  Although  many  of  the  scenes  were  passed  in 
those  countries,  yet  the  narrative  takes  a  wider  range,  and 
embraces  portions  of  the  South  American  Continent  in  Brazil, 
Chili,  and  Peru, — together  with  visits  to  some  of  the  groups  of 
the  Pacific  at  the  Sandwich,  Marquesas  and  Society  Islands. 

The  sketches  embodied  in  the  narrative  were  all  written  on  the 
field  of  their  occurrence  :  the  characters  incidentally  mentioned 
are  frequently  noms  de  mer. 

It  is  not  expected  by  the  Author  that  even  the  most  charitable 
reader  will  wholly  overlook  the  careless  style  and  framing  of  the 
work,  or  allow  it  to  pass  without  censure ;  nor  has  it  been  his 
object  to  deal  in  statistics,  or  any  abstract  reflections,  but  merely 
to  compile  a  pleasant  narrative,  such  as  may  perchance  please  or 

2036010 


vi  PREFACE. 

interest  the  generality  of  readers  ;  and  in  launching  the  volume  on 
its  natural  element — the  sea  of  public  opinion — the  Author  only 
indulges  in  the  aspiration — whether  the  reader  be  gentle  or 
ungentle — whether  the  book  be  praised  or  condemned — that  at 
least  the  philanthropy  of  the  Publishers  may  be  remunerated, 
wherein  lies  all  the  law  and  the  profits. 
NEW  YORK,  October y  1849. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER   I. 

PACK 

"We  sail  from  Boston,  and  how  we  felt. — Cure  for  Sea-Sickness. — Delights  of  the 
Ocean. — Crossing  the  Equator. — What  the  Mess  was  composed  of. — We  become 
reconciled  to  our  Fate. — Pass  Cape  Frio,  and  have  no  Inclination  to  bivouac  on 
the  Rorks  .  1 


CHAPTER    II. 

Rio  Janeiro,  and  what  is  to  be  seen  there. — Life  in  the  City. — Diamonds  and 
Levites.— Police.— Cookery  and  Currency.— The  Omnibus  Jehu  to  Boto  Fogo    . 


CHAPTER    III. 

Gloria  Hill.—  II  Cateto.—  Architecture.—  Visit  from  a  Scorpion,  and  the  Habit*  of 
other  Reptiles.—  The  Opera.—  The  Emperor  and  Court.—  The  Brazilians  think 
of  carrying  the  War  into  Africa  .....  ;  . 


CHAPTER    IV. 

We  leave  Rio,  and  march  towards  the  Horn.  —  Man  overboard  and  drowned.—  La 
Plata.—  We  take  an  Albatros.—  Terra  del  Fuego.—  Pitch  of  the  Cape.—  A  Marine 
dies.  —  How  the  Yankee  Corvette  doubled  Cape  Horn.  —  What  we  did  for  Pas- 
time.— Dr.  Faustus  .-The  Island  of  Chiloe  .  ,  20 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER    V. 


CHAPTER    VI, 

Weigh  Anchor,  with  some  Trouble  and  Broken  Bones.— Bid  adieu  to  Pleasures  of 
the  Shore.— Islands  of  St.  Ambrose  and  Felix.— We  lose  some  Shipmates.— Alta 
California. — Monterey  .  . 38 


CHAPTER    VII. 

Summary  of  Events  Preceding  our  Arrival. — Difficulties  between  Fremont  and 
Castro.— Operations  of  Naval  Forces. — Skirmish  at  San  Pascual. — Battles  of  San 
Gabriel  and  La  Mesa.— The  Volunteers  Disbanded 41 


CHAPTER    VIII. 

Town  of  Monterey.— Our  First  Impressions.— Days  of  Barricades.— Sentinels.— The 
Rocky-Mountain  Men.— Keg  of  Whiskey,  and  the  Use  it  was  put  to.— The  Trap- 
per's little  Anecdote  concerning  Old  Ginger  and  the  Indians  .  .  •  .47 


CHAPTER    IX. 

Treaty  of  Los  Angeles.— The  Lady  that  had  a  Strange  Taste  in  Jewelry.— The 
Disregard  of  Soap  in  those  Countries.— Visit  to  an  Extensive  Establishment.— 
The  Dofia  herself,  with  her  Small  Family  and  Prospects 58 


CHAPTER    X. 

Mission  of  Carmelo.— Tramp  m  the  Mountains.— Wolves  and  Venison.— We  be- 
come  bewildered,  but  encounter  a  Guide.— Boudoirs  for  Damsels.— The  Fan- 
dango.—How  the  Gentlemen  amused  themselves.— We  take  to  Hunting  for 
Pastime.— Climate.— Juaquinito  and  his  Mama.— Plains  of  Salinas.— Bill  Ander- 
son, his  Windmill  and  History—Wild  Geese.-Native  Entertainment  .  .  68 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER    XI. 

fAO» 

Maritime  Alps  of  California. — Entrance  to  Bay  of  San  Francisco. — Yerbabuena. 
— Society.— Pranks  on  Horses. — Saddles. — New  York  Regiment. — The  Cannibal 
Emigrants,  and  the  Dutchman's  Appetite  ;  with  Baptiste's  Remarks  thereon. — 
Perils  of  Emigration 59 


CHAPTER    XII. 

Sousoulito.— The  Belle  of  California.— The  Bears  of  the  same,  who  chase  us.— 
Angel  Island.— Deer  and  Elk  Shooting 7<j 


CHAPTER    XIII. 

Monterey  again. — The  Pioneer  Newspaper,  with  the  Editor,  Dr.  Semple. — We 
Sail  for  the  Mexican  Coast. — Island  of  Guadalupe. — Peninsular  of  Lower  Cali- 
fornia.—Jesuits.— Trade.— Ports  and  Resources.— We  blockade  Mazatlan.— Re- 
connoisance.  and  the  Ballet  that  ensued.— Yankee  Bombs.— The  Ladies  deceive 
us.— The  Chased  Diana  .  .  82 


CHAPTER   XIV. 

Cruise  of  the  Kosita. — Anchorage  of  Venados. — The  Oyster-boat.— We  received  a 
Hostage  in  Doctor  Barret,  and  learn  his  Misfortunes. — Change  of  Position. — We 
take  a  Prize,  end  afterwards  nearly  taken  for  another. — Set  fire  to  the  Dried 
Grass. — A  False  Alarm. — The  Fish  that  broke  Pat's  Nose.— Our  Supper  and 
Attendants.— The  Commodore  orders  us  Home 


CHAPTER    XV. 

Period  of  the  Blockade  of  Mazatlan.— The  Commandante,  Telles  ;  his  Habits  and 
Hospitalities. — The  Frigate  takes  her  Departure. — The  Shark. — Anchor  in  Mon- 
terey the  Third  Time 


CHAPTER    XVI. 

Dispatches  and  Equipments. — Californian  Gamesters. — The  Vacuero. — Don  Her- 
man.— The  Youthful  Mother  and  her  Gay  Deceiver. — We  Sup  on  Eggs. — Mur- 
phy's Rancho.— Pretty  Ellen.— Picturesque  Location.— Puebla.— Santa  Clara.— 
Priests  and  Indians.— Ladies  drying  Beef.— Reach  Yerbabuena  .  .  .  .103 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER    XVII. 

Sail  up  the  Bay.— Embarcadera  of  San  Jose.— We  sleep  at  a  Rancho.— Don  Ig- 
nacio  proves  to  be  a  Scamp.— Puebla.— Architecture  and  Agriculture.— Mission 
of  Santa  Clara.— The  Cannonier.— The  Padres.— The  Dandies.— We  attend 
Mass.—"  The  Forwardest  Gall  of  the  Mission."— Bear  Hunt  with  Dan  Murphy. 
—Rustic  Politeness.— Mission  of  San  Juan.— The  Gascon.— Crescencia  is  taken 
with  Fits.— Empirical  Practice.-  -Get  back  to  Monterey  .  .  .  .111 


CHAPTER    XYIII. 

San  Francisco  once  more.— Head  Waters.— Bay  of  San  Pablo.— Village  of  Sinoma. 
Vallejo.— Captain  Swayback.— Hunting.— We  Kill  an  Antelope.— Straits  of  Car- 
quinez.— City  of  Benecia.— Mares  Island.— Tulares  Valley 


CHAPTER    XIX. 

California  becomes  tranquil,  and  the  Columbus  sails  for  Home.— Sailors  drilled 
on  Shore. — We  Return  to  Monterey. — Town  increasing. — The  Reverend  Al- 
calde, and  how  he  collected  Treasure.— Indians  hung.— Diet  and  Games  of  the 
same.— Merendas .....  .130 


CHAPTER    XX. 

Final  Adieu  to  Monterey.— Reach  Cape  San  Bias,  and  San  Jose.— We  visit  Al- 
caldes, and  how  they  passed  their  Leisure. — Our  First  Search  for  the  Enemy. 
— When  we  are  offered  a  Baby,  but  decline. — Watering  Ship,  and  other  Plea- 
santries.— A  Small  Garrison  landed  to  occupy  San  Jose 136 


CHAPTER    XXI. 

Demonstrations  before  Mazatlan.— Summons  to  Surrender.— We  land  Sailor 
Troops,  and  occupy  the  Town. — Positions  and  Selections  for  Defence. — Land 
Ordnance.— Ayuntamientos.— MexicanMorality.— Piety  of  the  People.— Climate 
and  Diseases .  .143 


CHAPTER   XXII. 

Burning  Launches.— Skirmishing.— A  Reefer's  Idea  of  Bullets.— The  Retreat— 
We  lose  the  Road,  and  are  scared. — Affair  at  Unas. — Ambuscade. — Escaramnza. 
Flight.— Burial  of  the  Slain.— We  are  presented  with  a  Black  Charger,  and 
return  to  the  Port  .......  .1 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER    XXIII. 

FAGK 

Duties  of  a  Garrison.— The  Garitsu— We  Make  a  Night  March,  and  Surprise 
Ligueras.— The  Killed.— Lady  with  them.— Our  Trophies.— The  Commandante's 
Wife. — Is  the  Innocent  Cause  of  Murdering  a  Horse. — False  Alarm. — Another 
Night  Skirmish  j  when  the  Guide  gets  a  Bullet  through  his  Head,  and  is  Cursed 
by  his  Family 159 


CHAPTER    XXIV. 

How  they  Marry  in  Mazatlan.— Fights  with  Cuchillos.— The  Man  who  is  divested 
of  part  of  his  Scalp  and  Ear.— Cures  effected— Flying  Trip  to  Urias.— Where  we 
take  General  Urrea's  Orderly. — Who  is  afterwards  set  free 


CHAPTER    XXV. 

Mexican  Troop  pronounce  against  their  Leaders. — We  become  Poverty  Stricken. 
— Lancers  attempt  to  run  the  Guantlet,  and  carry  away  some  Buckshot. — De- 
scription of  the  Casa  Blanca,  and  how  we  behaved. — Madre  Maria  and  Pretty 
Juana.— The  Elite  of  the  Town,  who  praise  us  for  not  beating  our  Wives  .  .  173 


CHAPTER    XXVI. 

Dolores  and  her  Lover  ;  -who  is  wounded,  and  who  is  a  Coward. — Lola  dies  and  is 
buried 182 


CHAPTER    XXVII. 

El  Tigre  del  Norte.— Mr.  Bill  Folcy.— Sociedads.— Circus.— Monte.— Golden  Toad 
—Carnival.— Intercourse  with  Foreign  Society.— Hausen  and  the  Hern  Hutter. 
Don  Guillermo.— While  moralising  one  night  we.  are  nearly  impaled.— Our 
Little  Housekeeper.— Pita.— Fandango  de  la  Tripa.— Where  a  Lepero  abstracts 
our  Sward  and  Pistols  .  


CHAPTER    XXVIII. 

News  of  the  Peace — The  Outsiders  become  complimentary,  and  pay  a  visit  to 
Madre  Maria.— With  the  Mounted  Patrol  and  Captain  Luigi  we  ride  to  Veradhlo, 
and  disturb  the  slumbers  of  Sefior  Valverde,  who,  with  some  hesitation, 
returns  with  us  to  the  Port,  being  the  last  Prisoner  of  the  War.— A  Man  deserts, 
and  we  go  to  the  Presideo  for  him.— General  Anaya  and  Officers.— Commis- 
sioners meet  and  depart  in  Dudgeon '  194 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER    XXIX. 

PAGS 

Selge  of  San  Jose.— Defences  of  Garrison.— The  Summons  and  Parley.— The 
Storming  Party.— Mijares  Killed  with  his  Forlorn  Hope.— The  Brave  Whale- 
men.—Ambuscade  and  Prisoners.— The  Guerrillas  begin  the  Second  Siege.— 
Death  of  M'Lenahan.— The  Garrison  Beleaguered.—  Arrival  of  the  Cyane.— 
Battle  and  Relief  .  20a 


CHAPTER    XXX. 

We  Begin  a  Journey  to  the  City  of  Mexico.— Disembark  at  San  Bias.— Ride  to 
Tepic.— Cotton  Mills  of  Barron,  Forbes  &  Co.— Volcanic  Masses.— Aquacatlan— 
The  Red-hot  Patriot — Wake  of  Don  Pancho.— Plan  de  Barrancas.— The  Piece  of 
Ordnance. — Muchatilti. — Madelena.— How  Horses  are  Hired  in  the  Republic. — 
Race  with  Banditti 216 


CHAPTER    XXXI. 

Guadalajara.— SeSor  Llamas.— The  Lovely  Senora.— Plaza  and  Beauty.— The 
Great  Bridge. — Old  Cypriano's  Superstition  regarding  Horses'  Souls. — Tepe- 
titlan. — Pueblos  del  Rincon.— The  Drowsy  Commandante.— City  of  Leon.— Knife 
Duel.— Mexican  Mesons,  and  the  Society  therein. — Illumination  and  Supper. — 
We  take  Coach  and  reach  Guanajuato. — The  English  Mint  and  Machinery. — 
Gaming. — Scenic  Views. — Pat  is  a  Deserter. — Don  Pancho. — Escape  from  Los 
Compadres 233 


CHAPTER    XXXII. 

Queretaro.— Aqueduct.— Night  ride  by  Post.— The  United  States  Escort.— City  of 
Mexico. — We  are  refused  a  Drive. — Cathedral. — Palace. — Plaza. — Museum. — 
Sacrificial  Stone. — Manners  and  Customs  in  the  Hells  of  Montezuma. — Chapul- 
tepec. — The  Deep  Spring  where  we  bathed. — Moleno  del  Rey. — Faseo  .  .  251 


CHAPTER   XXXIII. 

Bureau  of  Postes.— Depart  from  the  Aztic  Capital.— Exemptions  of  Government 
Extraordinarios. — Livery  Stable  Woman  at  Tepetitlan. — Invited  to  a  Country 
Seat,  and  dine  with  Ladies.— We  are  afterwards  kicked  by  a  Horse,  but  con- 
tinue the  journey.— American  Deserters.— Encounter  Ladrons,  and  present  our 
Fassport.-Somebody  killed  by  Mistake.— Excitement  in  Queretaro.— Traitors 
of  San  Patricio.— Official  Visits.— The  Dignitaries  of  the  Republic.— Breakfast 
With  a  Brilliant  Colonel.— The  Alemeda.— We  run  a  Jouist.— Treaty  signed  .  260 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER    XXXIV. 

PAGE 

Sefior  Rosa  forgets  our  Escort,  and  we  are  scared  and  nearly  coach-wrecked. — 
Mine  of  La  Luz. — Pass  through  Guanajuato  to  Lagos. — A  Pronunciamento. — 
Tadre  Jarauta,  who  treats  us  with  contempt,  and  afterwards  wishes  to  make  an 
eje/mplo. —  We  bid  a  Hasty  Farewell— An  Ambulating  Pulperia. — San  Juan  de 
Lagos. — Arrieros. — Puente  Calderon. — Bathing  in  the  Ilio  Grande. — The  Rayo.  275 


CHAPTER    XXXV. 

Bull-fight  at  Guadalajara. — What  Fools  the  Beasts  are,  and  what  Brutes  the  Men 
are— La  Comedia.— Antique  Guide.— Execution  of  Robbers. — Tequilla. — Patron 
of  the  Meson  and  his  Daughters. — Endurance  of  Mexican  Soldiers. — Adapta- 
bility of  Western  Provinces  for  Military  Operations.— La  Nuberrada.— Horse 
Jockeying. — We  are  made  Unhappy. — Bathing  in  Tepic. — Rio  Grande  and  San- 
tiago.— Shower  of  Water  Melons. — Rio  San  Pedro. — Rosa  Morada. — Acaponeta. 
— High  Mass. — Tierra  Caliente,  and  Old  Tomas,  the  Pcet. — We  return  to 
Mazatlan  .  287 


CHAPTER    XXXVI. 

Don  Guillermo  and  Sefior  Molincro. — The  Olas  Altas,  and  the  gay  scenes  there 
enacted. — Thieves  and  Leperos. — How  to  learn  Castilian. — Evacuation  of  Mazat- 
lan by  the  U.  S.  Forces 307 


CHAPTER   XXXVII. 

Sailing  of  the  Squadron. — Cross  the  Gulf,  and  arrive  in  La  Paz. — Appearence  of 
Vegetation. — How  we  amused  Ourselves. — Fandangos. — Ball  on  Shipboard. — 
Marine  Pic  Nic.— The  Carrera.— The  Uncivil  Vacuero  and  his  Rude  Cattle.— The 
Chowder  Party.— Perils  and  Pearl  Fishing — Hunting.— Game  in  Lower  Cali- 
fornia.—The  Cove  of  San  Antonio,  and  Escape  from  Boatwreck  .  .  .  .  ! 


CHAPTER    XXXVIII. 

What  the  U.  S.  Government  did  to  indnce  the  Natives  to  take  up  Arms.— The 
Volunteer  who  shot  his  Wife.— Little  Sam  Patch.— Flying  Visit  to  Mazatlan, 
and  Last  Farewell •....; 


CHAPTER    XXXIX. 

We  leave  Mexico.— Go  to  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and  anchor  in  Byron's  Bay,  or 
Hilo.— Natives.— Scenery.— Constables.— Meeting  House.— Dialect— Sermon.— 
We  Depart  for  the  Interior.— Half-way  House. —Society  there,  and  how  they  cook 
Turkeys.— Volcano  of  Kilauea.— Frozen  Sea  oi  Lava.— The  Great  Crater.— Sul- 
pher  Banks.— Return  to  Hilo  .  329 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER    XL. 

FAS  I 

Hilo.— Education.— Fondness  for  Liquor.— Favorite  dish  of  roasted  Dog,  and  pro- 
cess of  fattening  them.— Water  Nymphs.— Rainbow  Falls.— The  Wailuku.— The 
Three-Decker. — Mauna  Kea  and  Mauna  Loa  .  ...  .  335 


CHAPTER    XLI. 

Paipolo  Passage. — Maui. — Lahaina. — Cocoanut  Tree,  and  its  uses. — The  Gov- 
ernor, James  Young.— His  Fortress— Surf-Swimming  by  Girls,  who  gave  us 
Lessons  .  .  348 


CHAPTER    XLII. 

High  School  of  Lahainaluna  for  Boys. — Other  Institutions  for  Girls. — Character 
of  Hawaiians. — Their  Crimes  and  Vices. — Board  of  Presbyterian  Missions. — 
Exaggerations  upon  Moral  Condition  of  the  Natives.— Expulsion  of  Catholics  355 


CHAPTER   XLIII. 

Oahu.— Honolulu.— Rides  and  Drives  in  Vicinity.— Society.— The  Pali  up  the 
Nuana.— Saturnalia  of  Kanakas.— Rage  for  Horses  —Straw  Hamlets— and  Life 
within  them  .  .  862 


CHAPTER    XLIV. 

King  Kammehamma,  or  the  Lonely  One. — Ministers. — Presentation  at  Court. — 
Furniture  of  the  Palace. — Approach  of  Royalty. — Speeches. — Costumes. — Prin- 
ces of  the  blood  royal,  who  patronise  us. — And  what  became  of  Moses 


CHAPTER    XLV. 

We  sail  from  Sandwich  Islands.— The   Tar  of  all  Weathers.— Weather.— Cur- 
rents and  Passage  to  Marquesas 375 


CHAPTER    XLVI. 

Nukeheva.— Bay  of  Anna  Maria.— Style  of  Head-dress  in  Vogue.— Tattooing,  and 
other  Ornaments.— French  Garrison.— Physical  Characteristics  of  these  Sava- 
ges —Bathing.— King's  Residence,  where  we  beheld  a  Nobleman  drunk  with 
Arva 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER    XLVII. 

Visit  to  a  Distinguished  Chief.— His  House  and  Attendants.— Babies  Swimming.— 
Making  Fire  with  Sticks.— An  Ancestor  Embalmed — Catholics.— Vagabonds 
and  Deserters. — Whaling  Interests 387 


CHAPTER    XLVIII. 

ail  from  Marquesas— for  Society  Group.— Tahiti.— Port  of  Paputee.—The  Reet— 
Shores  and  Batteries.—  Missionaries.— Melville  ...        .  : 


CHAPTER    XLIX. 

Brown  Road.— Semi-Civilization— Excursion  to  Pomaree  Country  House  at  Pa- 
poa. — The  Queen  and  her  Hen-coop  Habitation. — Sc  lool. — Fondness  for  Flow- 
ers .--Native  Dinner.— Jack  the  Head  Waiter.— Finger  Glasses.— We  sleep  in 
the  Palace,  and  are  Serenaded. — Visit  from  a  Tahitian  Noble,  and  how  he  con- 
ducted himself.— Coral  Groves  in  the  Harbor.-  -Islet  of  Motunata  .  .  .400 


-CHAPTER    L. 

Trip  to  the  Mountains.— Teina.— Ferry-Boat,  By  Toanni.— Lofty  Cascade.  For- 
tress of  Faatoar. — Losses  by  the  French. — The  Diadem.— We  spread  a  Banquet, 
and  the  Ladies  have  an  Appetite. — Soiree  by  French  Governor. — Departure  .  413 


CHAPTER    LI. 

Leave  Polynesia.— Accident  to  Topmen. — The  Great  Pacific. — Old  Harry  Green- 
field's Yarn.— The  Royal  Bengal  Tiger,  who  had  a  difficulty  with  the  Cook      421 


CHAPTER    LTI. 

Callao. — Appearance  of  the  Place. — The  Citadel. — Rodil. — Road  to  Lima. — And 
what  may  be  seen  in  the  City. — Rimac. — Public   Edifices. — San  Domingo        ,  426 


CHAPTER    LIII. 

The  Clergy  Mingling  in  every-day  Panoramas. — Vespers. — Promenades. — Bull 
Fights. — Berlinas, -Sayas  y  Mantas,  and  Speculations  upon  uses  and  abuses. 
Youthful  Lumps  of  Gold,  and  Attachment  to  their  Uncles  .... 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER    LIV. 

Cathedral.— Viceroy's  Palace.— Plaza.— General  CastUla.— Museum.—  Antiquities. 

— Portraits  of  Pizarro.— Opera.— The  Scene  not  in  the  Play 439 


CHAPTER    LV. 

Valparaiso  Again.— El  Dorado.— Rides.— The  Yorkshire  Dame  at  the  Post  House. 
— Pic-Nics.— Our  Lovely  Country- Women.— The  Terraces.— Monte  Allegro       .  445 


CHAPTER   LVI. 

Homeward  Bound,  and  the  Cruise  is  over        .       . 


CHAPTER    I. 

IT  was  on  the  last  day  of  summer,  1846,  that  a  large  vessel  of 
•war  lay  in  the  stream  of  Boston  Harbor  ;  presently  a  dirty  little 
steam  tug,  all  bone  and  muscle,  came  burroughing  alongside. 
The  boatswain  and  his  mates  whistled  with  their  silver  pipes,  like 
Canary  birds,  and  the  cry  went  forth,  to  heave  up  the  anchor. 
Soon  the  ponderous  grapnell  was  loosened  from  its  hold,  and  our 
pigmy  companion  clasping  the  Imge  hull  in  his  hempen  arms, 
bore  us  away  towards  the  ocean ;  by  and  by,  the  unbleached  can- 
vas fell  in  gloomy  clouds  from  the  wide-spread  spars — the  sails 
swelled  to  the  breeze — friends  were  tumbling  over  the  side — 
light  jokes  were  made — hats  waved — cheers  given,  whether  from 
the  heart,  or  not,  was  a  problem,  and  then  there  came  a  short  in- 
terval in  the  hoarse  roar  of  steam,  as  the  pigmy's  fastenings 
splashed  in  the  water — then  all  was  silent ;  and  the  stately  ship, 
dashing  the  salt  tears  from  her  eyes,  turned  her  prow,  in  sadness, 
from  her  native  land. 

There  were  many,  no  doubt,  of  those  six  hundred  souls  on 
board,  who  leaving  home  with  the  sweet  endearments  of  domestio 
life  fresh  upon  them,  were  looking  forward  with  blanched  cheeks 
and  saddened  hearts,  to  years  of  distant  wanderings.  And  there 


2  CHAPTER    I. 

were   others,   too,   equally  indifferent,   and    regardless   of    the 
future — 


1  With  one  foot  on  land, 
— To  one  thing  constan 


•who,  perhaps,  never  had  a  home — tired  of  the  shore — were  eager 
for  change  or  excitement ;  but  I  question  much,  if  there  was  one 
on  board,  of  all  those  beating  hearts,  who  did  not  anticipate  a 
safe  and  joyful  return.  Alas  !  how  many  of  these  fragile  aspira- 
tions were  never  realized.  Numbers  found  a  liquid  tomb  beneath 
the  dark  blue  waves,  or  died  a  sailor's  death  in  foreign  climes,  far 
away  from  friends  and  kindred,  Or  returned  with  broken  consti- 
tutions, and  wasted  frames,  enfeebled  by  disease,  to  linger  out  a 
miserable  existence  on  the  native  land  they  still  loved  so  well. 

A  fortnight  we  sailed  moderately  and  pleasantly  in  a  race  with 
the  sun  towards  the  equator.  The  pole  star  slowly  but  surely 
declined  in  the  north  ;  faces  began  to  assume  a  more  cheerful 
aspect ;  we  became  reconciled  to  our  fate  ;  to  banish  those  hate- 
ful things  called  reminiscences,  which,  even  though  pleasant,  only 
make  us  regret  them  the  more,  when  gone  forever.  Thus  we 
entered  the  tropic,  and  then  lay  lunging  and  plunging  hi  the  dol- 
drums— clouds  dead  and  stupid,  with  the  sun  making  all  manner 
of  gay  transparencies,  at  the  rising,  and  most  particularly  at  the 
setting  thereof.  Then  came  another  week  of  wna  furiosa 
calma — a  furious  calm,  as  the  Spaniards  have  it — bobbing  about  hi 
undulating  billows,  and  the  tough  canvass  beating  and  chafing  in 
futile  anger.  It  was  thus  we  learned,  those  of  us  who  had  not 
made  the  discovery  before,  what  a  really  annual  existence  one 
leads  on  shipboard  ;  a  sort  of  dozing  nonentity,  only  agreeable  to 
those  who  have  no  imaginative  organizations  desirous  of  more  ex- 
tended sphere  of  action. 


CURE  FOR  SEA  SICKNESS.  3 

It  does  passibly  well  to  eat  and  sleep  away  life — that  is,  pre- 
suming the  dinners  be  hot  and  eatable,  and  nights  cool  and 
deepable — in  smooth  seas,  and  under  mild  suns  ;  but  when  the 
winds  are  piping  loud  and  cold,  the  vessel  diving  and  leaping  at 
2vcry  possible  angle  of  the  compass,  with  the  stomachs  of  the 
mariners  occasionally  pitched  into  their  heads,  as  if  they  were 
dromedaries,  with  several  internal  receptacles  apiece,  devised  pur- 
posely to  withstand  the  thumps  and  concussions  of  salt  water  ;  when 
the  ship  is  performing  these  sub-marine  and  aerial  evolutions 
I  take  it,  as  a  reasonable  being,  there  can  be  found  a  stray 
nook  or  two,  on  hard  ground,  far  more  comfortable  and  habita- 
ble. And  by  way  of  parenthesis,  I  beg  leave  to  recommend 
to  any  arid  all  unfortunate  persons  given  to  aquatic  recreation, 
and  troubled  with  the  disease  whilom  called  sea-sickness,  to  di- 
vest the  mind  and  body  of  care  and  clothing,  tumble  into  a 
swinging  cot,  and  on  the  verge  of  starvation  sip  sparingly  of  weak 
brandy  and  water,  nibble  a  biscuit,  and  a  wrell-roasted  potato.  I 
made  this  important  discovery  after  being  a  sufferer  ten  years, 
and  pledge  a  reputation  upon  the  strength  of  that  martyrdom, 
of  its  infallible  virtues. 

Indeed,  there  are  but  two  kinds  of  sailing  at  all  bearable.  I 
allude,  of  course,  to  those  who  take  to  it  con  amore^  and  are 
not  compelled  to  crowd  all  dimity  to  weather  a  lee  shore  and 
the  almshouse  ;  one  where  the  glorious  trade  wind  fills  the  belly- 
ing canvas,  and  the  vessel  slips  quietly  and  swiftly  along  with 
the  gentlest  possible  careening ;  without  hauling  and  pulling  of 
cordage,  nor  heavy  seas,  nor  heavy  rains,  but  the  light,  fleecy 
clouds  flying  gracefully  overhead,  the  waves  blue  and  yielding,  the 
watch  dozing  lazily  in  the  shade,  and  the  decks  clean  and  tidy — 
it  is  a  pretty  sight,  to  see  a  noble  ship  properly  manoeuvred,  come 


4  CHAPTER  I. 

swiftly  up  to  the  wind,  the  sails  laid  rapidly  aback,  with  lower  can- 
vas trailed  up  in  graceful  festoons,  and  the  buoyant  hull  rising 
and  falling  on  the  gentle  swell,  like  the  courtesies  of  Cerito  or  Ells- 
ler  in  Sir  Roger  de  Covcrley,  with  all  the  drapery  of  dimity  flut- 
tering around  them.  Then,  again,  in  that  blue  sea  of  seas,  the 
Mediterranean,  where  more  than  half  the  year  one  may  sail  over 
level  water,  with  none  of  the  ocean  swell,  with  delightful  breezes 
only  strong  enough  to  fan  the  light  and  lofty  sails  to  sleep,  the 
shores  of  Italy  or  Spain  lifting  their  green-clad  hills  along  the 
beam,  or  the  ever  varying  islands  of  the  Grecian  Archipelago 
coming  and  going,  as  you  dart  rapidly  through  then-  straits.  Ah  ! 
in  those  times,  and  in  those  seas,  ships  are  possibly  endurable, 
but  of  all  monotonies,  that  of  shipboard  is  the  dullest,  most  weari- 
•soine  and  detestable. 

Week  after  week  passed  away,  one  day  like  another,  nothing 
to  chronicle  save  the  birth  of  a  sailor's  pet  in  the  shape  of  a  tiny 
goat — taking  a  shark — the  usual  pious  Sunday  homily,  and  on  a 
certain  occasion  one  Jem  Brooks,  whose  residence,  in  company 
with  other  cherubs,  was  somewhere  aloft  in  the  main-top,  whilst 
in  the  act  of  dropping  a  boat  into  the  ocean,  some  mishap  attend- 
ed the  descent,  and  he  dropped  overboard  himself,  thereby  crack- 
ing the  small  bone  of  his  leg,  with  a  few  other  trifling  abrasions  of 
skin  and  flesh.  Iron  life  buoys  that  no  one  as  yet  ever  did 
comprehend  the  mechanism  of,  always  fizzing  off  the  port -fires  in 
broad  day,  and  enshrouding  themselves  in  utter  darkness  at  night 
when  only  needed,  were  instantly  sent  after  the  aforesaid  Jem 
Brooks,  who  imbued  with  the  wit  and  tenacity  of  his  species  in 
extremis,  seized  ono  of  them,  and  in  a  short  space  returned  plea- 
santly on  board. 

This  was   all   that    served   to  enliven  our  stupid  existence. 


DELIGHTS  OF  THE  OCEAN. 


The  winds  coquetted  with  all  the  pcrverseness  of  a  spoiled 
beauty,  at  times  blowing  provokingly  steady,  then  we  went  reel- 
ing over  the  seas,  with  piercingly  blue  skies  above  us,  and  all 
reconcileable  elements  to  our  journeyings,  excepting  the  breeze 
ever  blowing  so  pertinaciously  in  the  wrong  direction ;  at  others 
we  managed  to  cheat  Eolus  out  of  a  puff,  and  steal  a  march  upon 
him,  right  into  his  breezy  eyes,  but  then  again  he  gave  a  wink, 
distended  his  huge  cheeks,  and  blew  us  far  away  to  leward.  It 
was  truly  trying  to  the  nerves  to  be,  crying  patience  continually, 
when  there  was  no  appeal — we  could  not  exclaim  with  Dryden : 

'•'  The  passage  yet  was  good  ;  tlie  wind  'tis  true 
Was  somewhat  high,  but  that  was  nothing  new, 
No  more  than  usual  equinoxes  blew." 

There  was  naught  new  nor  usual  about  it,  wind  and  weather  were  a 
mass  of  inconsistency  ;  a  few  more  revolutions  of  the  sun,  and  we 
should  have  found  ourselves  stranded  in  the  Dahomey  territory, 
or  other  equally  delightful  regions,  bordering  on  the  Bight  of 
Benin,  in  Africa ;  even  the  good  old  captain  of  marines  began  to 
look  worried  and  anxious,  paid  nightly  visits  to  the  sailing  mas- 
ter, and  with  the  most  earnest  and  imploring  tone,  would  ask — 
"  Well,  Master  !  how  docs  she  head  ?"  as  if  he  reposed  full  trust 
in  his  sagacity,  and  for  God's  sake  to  ease  his  mind,  and  let  him 
hear  the  worst  at  once.  Surgeons,  pursers  and  secretaries,  went 
off  their  feed,  and  from  being  rather  over  sanguine  at  times,  burst 
forth  with  lamentable  wailings  in  the  poignancy  of  their  despair 
The  captain  of  the  ship,  too,  reviled  creation  generally,  and  was 
rather  snappish  with  officers  of  the  watches ;  hinting  that  the 
yards  were  not  trimmed,  ship  steered  properly,  and  other  legal 
animadversions.  Then  the  lieutenants,  kind  souls,  abused  the 
master,  taxing  him  with  manifold  crimes  and  delinquencies  for 


6  CHAPTER  I. 


bringing  adverse  breezes,  did  those  sagacious  creatures,  and  at 
other  times  becoming  jocose,  would  advise  him  to  kick  the  chro- 
nometers several  times  around  the  mast  to  accelerate  or  diminish 
their  rates,  and  talked  loudly  of  requesting  the  Commodore  to  fol- 
low the  first  bark  we  might  encounter,  to  the  end  that  we  should 
get  safely  into  port — in  fact,  we  were  all,  morally  speaking,  in  a 
state  of  gangrene ;  morbid,  morose  and  our  circumstances  get- 
ting more  desperate  hourly  ;  but  the  longest  night,  except  in  the 
winter  season  off  Cape  Horn,  has  its  dawning :  the  wind  veered 
fair,  whitening  the  ruffled  water  to  windward,  the  noble  frigate 
recovered  her  long  lost  energy,  and  with  white  sails  swelling  from 
trucks  to  the  sea,  shook  the  sparkling  brine  from  her  mane,  and 
left  a  foaming  wake  behind ;  the  thick,  mucky,  sticky  atmosphere 
that  clung  to  us  upon  entering  the  tropic,  was  quickly  displaced, 
by  refreshing  and  grateful  breezes. 

We  crossed  the  dividing  line  of  the  sphere,  rushing  and  splash- 
ing down  the  slope  on  the  other  side,  carrying  the  whole  ocean 
before  us :  myriads  of  flying  fish  flashed  their  silver-tinted  wings 
as  they  broke  cover,  and  flew  upward  at  our  approach.  Por- 
poises and  dolphins  would  dash  around  the  bows,  try  our  speed, 
and  then  disappear,  perhaps,  with  a  contused  eye,  or  bruised  snout 
from  a  sparring  match  with  the  cutwater ;  on  we  bounded  with 
the  cracking  trade  wind,  tugging  the  straining  canvas  towards 
Brazil. 

The  mess  was  large,  and  composed  of  strange  materials — men 
of  gravity  and  men  of  merriment,  some  who  relate  professional 
anecdotes  and  talk  knowingly  of  ships,  and  sails  and  blocks,  and 
nautical  trash  generally,  others,  would  be  literary  characters,  who 
pour  over  encyclopedias,  gazetteers  and  dictionaries,  ever  ready 
to  pounce  upon  an  indiscreet  person,  and  bring  him  to  book  in  old 


WE  BECOME  RECONCILED. 


dates  or  events  ;  then  there  is  the  mess  grumbler,  the  mess  ora- 
tor, a  lawgiver  and  politician,  and  always  an  individual,  without 
whom  no  mess  is  properly  organized,  who  volunteers  to  lick  the 
American  consul  in  whatsoever  haven  the  ship  may  be,  for  any  fan- 
cied grievance,  but  particularly  if  he  happen  to  be  poor,  and  not  dis- 
posed to  give  a  series  of  grand  dinners  upon  his  meagre  fare  of  office. 

All  these  individual  peculiarities  we  had  sufficient  leisure  to  in- 
dulge in,  and  although  I  have  asserted  that  ship-board  is  the  most 
horrible  monotony  in  life,  and  hold  to  mine  oath,  yet  Apollo 
tuned  his  lyre,  and  old  Homer  took  siesta,  thus  by  example,  if 
anything  can  relieve  this  dulness,  it  is  in  the  very  contrast,  where 
the  mercury  of  one's  blood  is  driven  high  up  by  cheering  pros- 
pects of  favoring  gales,  and  anticipations  of  a  speedy  arrival,  after 
a  tedious  passage. 

Our  amiability  returned  with  our  appetites — alas  !  too  keenly 
for  the  doomed  carcass  of  a  solitary  pig,  grunting  in  blissful  ignor- 
ance of  his  fate,  in  a  spacious  pen  on  the  gun  deck.  Juicy  and 
succulent  vegetables  had  long  since  vacated  the  mess  table,  and 
the  talents  of  our  cordon-bleu,  Messieurs  Hypolite  de  Bontems, 
and  Francois,  were  constantly  phrenzied  with  excitement,  com- 
posing palatable  dishes,  from  the  privacy  of  tins  of  potted  meats, 
and  hidden  delicacies  of  the  store  rooms.  We  all  became  socia- 
ble, quizzed  one  another  good  humoredly — some  declared  they 
had  been  dreadfully  spooney  with  some  fair  girls  before  leav- 
ing home,  but  were  better  now,  and  thought  the  marine  air 
wholesome  for  those  complaints.  Others,  again,  still  remained 
faithful,  compared  their  watches  with  the  chronometers,  to  deter- 
mine the  exact  difference  of  time  on  certain  periods  designated 
beforehand,  with  may  be  a  choice  collection  of  stars  of  the  first 
magnitude,  to  gaze  at  by  night.  Nevertheless,  there  was  a  radi 


8  CHAPTER  I. 

cal  change  for  the  better  ;  we  became  more  companionable,  hob- 
nobbed across  the  table,  after  dinner,  heard  with  calm  delight 
orchestral  music  from  the  flutes  and  fiddles  of  papa  Gheeks  and 
family — an  old  gentleman  from  faderland,  whom  the  sailors,  in 
their  ignorance  of  German,  had  baptized  "  Peter  the  Greeks,"  a 
soubriquet  by  which  he  universally  went — and  one  of  our  mess 
had  the  humanity  to  inquire  if  the  small  French  horn,  or 
octave  flute,  had  tumbled  down  the  hatchway,  and  whether  he 
broke  his  neck  or  was  merely  asphyxie.  We  even  ceased  grumb- 
ling at  the  servants,  and  to  a  man  all  agreed  that  the  passage  had 
been  of  unexampled  pleasantness. 

Nothing  checked  our  headlong  speed,  and  the  fiftieth  day  from 
Boston  saw  us  close  to  the  high,  desolate  mountains  of  cape 
Frio,  within  plain  view  of  the  little  rocky  nook  where  the  Eng- 
lish frigate  Thetis  made  a  futile  attempt  to  batter  the  island  over, 
but  went  down  in  the  struggle.  'Tis  said  the  gun  room  mess 
were  entertaining  the  captain  at  dinner,  who  somewhat  oblivious 
to  everything,  save  being  homeward  bound  to  merry  England 
with  a  ship  laden  with  treasure,  disregarded  the  sailing  master's 
wishes  to  alter  the  course,  and  the  consequence  was,  after  night 
set  in,  the  frigate  struck,  going  eight  knots — providentially  the 
crew  were  saved.  The  long  Atlantic  swell  was  rolling  heavily 
against  the  bluff  promontories,  and  the  surf  lashing  far  up  the 
black  heights,  giving  many  of  us  a  nervous  disinclination  to  mak- 
ing a  night  expedition  among  the  rocks,  going  to  sleep  with  a 
dirty  shirt  and  mouthful  of  sand,  without  even  the  consolation  of 
being  afterwards  laid  out  in  clean  linen,  to  make  luncheon  for 
vultures ;  but  since  it  takes  a  complication  of  these  diversions  to 
compose  a  veritable  sea  life,  we  banished  perspective  danger,  and 
indulged  in  speculations  upon  the  pleasures  of  port. 


CHAPTER    II. 

«  The  far  ships  lifting  their  sails  of  white 
Like  joyful  hands  ;  come  up  with  scatter'd  light, 

And  chase  the  whistling  brine,  and  swirl  into  the  bay." 

REMINI.  OF  LEIGH  HUNT. 

THE  approach  to  Rio  Janeiro,  so  far  as  God's  fair  handiwork 
is  considered,  presents  a  bold,  natural,  and  striking  grandeur, 
and  is,  perhaps,  unsurpassed  by  that  of  any  other  land  on  earth. 
The  mountains  spring  abruptly  from  the  sea,  in  massive,  well-de- 
fined outline,  assuming  at  different  points  the  most  fanciful  and 
grotesque  shapes.  Those  to  the  southward  make  in  goodly  pro- 
portion the  figure  of  a  man  reclining  on  his  back,  even  to  feet 
and  eyes,  while  further  inland  are  seen  the  narrow  tube-like 
cones  of  the  Organ  Mountains,  shooting  high  up  into  the  sky, 
and  then  lower  down,  and  around,  are  strewn  lesser  hills,  sweep- 
ing and  undulating  from  vale  to  vale,  in  an  endless  succession  of" 
picturesque  beauty. 

Passing  the  strait  that  opens  into  the  bay,  which  appears  nar- 
rower than  it  really  is,  from  the  steep  sides  of  adjacent  heights, 
the  river  expands,  and  stretching  away  on  either  shore,  lie  grace- 
ful curves  and  indentations,  whose  snowy  beaches  are  fringed  with 
pretty  dwellings,  half  hidden  beneath  the  richest  tropical  foliage. 
To  the  left  stands  the  city,  built  amidst  a  number  of  elevations, 
but  like  Lisbon,  it  has  neither  spire  nor  dome  to  relieve  the  eye 
along  the  horizon.  Yet  this  drawback  is  in  a  measure  lost  sight 


10  CHAPTER  II. 

of  in  contemplating  the  frowning  peak  of  La  Gabia,  which  seems 
to  hang  over,  and  shade  the  town  itself ;  but  take  all  in  all  there 
are  few  lovelier  scenes  the  eye  can  gaze  upon,  than  Rio. 

Just  ten  years  had  passed  since  I  sailed  from  this  noble  bay, 
and  although  I  had  been  the  wide  world  over,  in  stirring  scenes, 
quite  sufficient  as  I  indeed  supposed  to  drive  all  recollections  of  it 
out  of  my  head,  into  dun  obscurity  and  forgetfulness,  yet  as  we 
approached  the  harbor,  every  point  and  islet,  fort,  tower,  reef, 
grove,  and  hamlet,  started  vividly  before  me,  as  all  appeared 
when  I  was  a  boy,  and  the  long  years  between  dwindled  away 
into  minutes,  and  I  fancied  it  but  yesterday  since  we  had 
parted. 

I  greeted  Lord  Hood's  nose  like  an  old  acquaintance,  as  it 
reposed  in  gigantic  outline,  towering  above  the  surrounding 
mountains  ;  the  small  island  near  the  shore  with  the  white  tower 
that  was  then  just  begun  ;  the  Sugar  Loaf  with  its  smooth  sur- 
face of  rocks,  and  on  the  other  side  the  Slaver's  Bay — palmettos 
swinging  their  finger-like  branches  to  and  fro ;  and  beyond,  the 
fortress  of  Santa  Cruz,  with  the  sickly  yellow  diamond  of  Brazil, 
waving  above  ;  indeed,  when-  the  long  speaking  trumpet  was 
shoved  through  an  embrasure,  I  knew  the  old  soldier's  melan- 
choly howl  by  intuition.  At  last  the  harbor's  mouth  was  passed, 
we  rolled  up  our  sails  and  sank  peacefully  to  rest  on  the  quiet 
bosom  of  the  bay. 

A  mob  of  us  tumbled  into  the  boats  ;  the  ashen  sails,  plied  by 
sinewy  arms,  soon  bumped  us  against  what  was  once  to  me  the 
Palace  Stairs,  but  either  the  water  had  receded,  or  land  en- 
croached upon  the  bay,  for  where  the  waves  once  washed  the  sea 
wall,  and  where  many  a  time  I  have  sat  kicking  my  heels  in  the 
surf,  Bucking  oranges  the  while,  is  now  forty  feet  from  the  beach, 


TIME'S  CHANGES. 


and  the  wall  itself  stands  in.  the  silliest  manner  imaginable,  quite 
in  the  middle  of  the  square.  To  the  left  is  a  tall  modern  range 
of  warehouses  and  the  hotel  Pharou.  Swarms  of  .cigar-smoking 
bipeds  were  lounging  edgeways  from  the  cafes  and  billiard  rooms. 
I  recognized  many  old  familiar  faces  of  the  boatmen,  and  among 
other  rare  birds,  the  overgrown  eunich  organist,  who  used  to  be 
the  wonder  of  my  boyhood  —  there  he  stood  as  of  yore,  exercising 
his  curiosity  in  scrutinizing  the  new  comers. 

The  tenth  of  a  century  makes  vast  strides  towards  changing  the 
appearance  of  things  in  these  electrical  times,  and  although  I  dis- 
covered no  difference  in  beauties  of  dale,  hill  or  mountain,  for  the 
Organos  still  shot  their  needle-like  peaks  as  high  up  into  heaven, 
the  weather  was  quite  as  calm  and  hot  in  the  mornings,  and  as 
breezy  in  the  afternoons,  the  same  bells  were  heard  ringing  the  most 
confused  o£  chimes,  squares  were  as  crowded,  streets  no  wider,  and 
negroes  as  numerous  and  spicy  as  ever  ;  yet  what  I  mean  is,  the 
animus  of  the  town  itself  had  been  transmogrified.  The  beautiful 
bay  was  traversed  by  hateful  little  beetles  of  steamers,  drawing 
long  lines  of  sooty  black  smoke  through  the  pure  air,  instead  of 
multitudes  of  picturesque  lateen  craft,  with  the  musical  chants 
and  cadences  of  the  negro  oarsmen,  skimming  and  singing  over 
the  water.  Then,  too,  streets  were  filled  with  onmibii,  cabs,  gigs, 
gondolas,  and  all  other  conceivable  inventions  for  locomotion, 
serving  to  make  one  uncomfortable  from  the  very  strivings  to 
avoid  it  :  I  forgive  the  entire  African  races  for  whistling  the  latest 
polkas,  or  rather  sistling  through  their  closed  teeth,  for  holding 
to  the  ancient  custom  of  affectionately  interlacing  little  fingers,  as 
they  come  dancing,  chattering  and  jabbering  along  the  streets. 
Fleas,  too,  were  as  lively  and  vigorous  as  ever,  and  I  thought  I 
recognised  one  centenarian,  who  hopped  on  me  with  an  ardor  truly 


12  CHAPTER  II. 

delightful,  upon  stepping  on  shore  at  the  palace  stairs.  The 
shopping  Rua  Ouvidor  was  still  the  same  incongruous  assortment 
of  French  and  German  shops,  with  here  and  there  an  unobtrusive 
counter,  behind  which  some  Levite  displayed  ebony  trays  of  twink- 
ling brilliants,  enough  to  make  the  mouth  water,  eyes  wink,  and 
pocket  bleed,  should  a  purchase  be  thought  of.  Black  nurses 
still  held  their  juvenile  charges  out  from  the  lattice-work  doors 
and  windows,  with  little  bare  legs  dangling  outside,  to  favor  any 
chance  pedestrian  with  an  eleemosynary  kick,  should  he  come 
within  reach.  Then  the  same  interminable  lines  of  slaves,  each  a 
bag  of  coffee  on  his  head,  preceded  by  a  leading  chorister,  with 
email  rattle,  by  way  of  accompaniment  to  the  harsh  chorus,  as 
they  pass  swiftly  on  with  a  sharp  jerking  trot  to  the  shipping  or 
warehouses  of  the  port.  All  this  was  still  the  same  to  me,  but  in 
general  it  was  not  my  Rio,  not  the  spot  where  my  first  and  boyish 
impressions  were  formed,  of  the  voluptuous,  luxurious  life  under 
tropical  suns.  The  march  of  invention  is  rapidly  reducing  every- 
thing to  a  standard  of  its  own,  and  I  could  only  sigh  over  the  in- 
novations constituting  refinement  in  civilization,  where  it  seems  so 
little  needed. 

A  very  great  improvement,  in  all  praise  bo  it  said,  had  taken 
place  in  the  order  and  cleanliness  of  the  city — we  were  not  ac- 
costed once  by  mendicants,  when  formerly  they  were  as  thick  aa 
lazzaroni  in  Naples.  The  police  was  large,  remarkably  well  or- 
ganized, and  the  riots  and  assassinations  of  former  days  were  un- 
heard of.  The  cafes  and  hotels  have  kept  pace  with  the  times, 
where  one  may  satisfy  his  gourmanderie  with  a  certain  show  of 
epicurianism,  provided  his  palate  be  not  too  delicate  for  many 
kinds  of  fishes  and  vegetables,  with  mayhap,  at  rare  intervals,  a, 


YANKEE  NOTION'.-*.  13 

taste  of  monkey  or  paroquet.  Yankee  ice  is  very  generally  used, 
and  a  philanthropic  person  had  hung  out  a  banner  with  "  Mint 
Juleps"  inscribed  thereon,  but  the  thirst  for  these  cold  institu- 
tions is  not  so  much  felt  as  in  some  parts  of  the  United  States  ; 
for  here  the  weather,  though  hot  and  enervating,  has  not  the  op- 
pressiveness and  lassitude  of  our  summers,  and  besides,  fluids  are 
made  suflicicntly  cool  and  cooling,  through  the  medium  of  un- 
glazed  water  jars,  swung  gently  in  the  breeze. 

We  saw  one  deformed  African  attached  to  a  small  tray  and 
sign,  on  which  was  legibly  painted  "  ginger-beer,"  evidently 
meaning  ginger  pop.  We  execrated  that  monster  on  the  spot, 
and  said  to  ourselves,  what  is  the  necessity  for  leaving  home,  if 
we  are  to  be  stared  out  of  countenance  by  our  household  gods,  at 
the  antipodes. 

Another  trifling  peculiarity  attracted  our  attention.  I  allude  to 
the  trumpet-shaped  water  pipes,  sticking  boldly  out  from  below 
every  balconied  window,  of  all  colors  and  sizes,  reminding  us  of  mis- 
shapen angels,  with  puffed  out  cheeks,  and  trombones,  invariably 
found  in  the  upper  angles  of  miraculous,  or  scriptural  paintings  : 
fortunately  there  was  no  rain,  or  we  might  have  been  gratified 
with  a  douche  that  the  great  Preussnitz  himself  would  have  been 
proud  of. 

By  no  art  or  teaching  can  His  Imperial  Majesty,  with  "  all  the 
Senate  at  his  heels,"  be  induced  to  give  a  respectable  currency 
to  the  country.  The  stamped  paper  of  the  empire  in  raia 
fluctuates  like  quicksilver  at  the  mart,  and  it  is  next  to  impossi- 
ble to  form  any  reasonable  conjecture  what  change  may  take  place 
from  day  to  day.  In  lieu  of  this,  copper  coins,  nearly  the  diame 
ter  of  ship  biscuits,  valued  from  twenty  to  forty  rais,  and  com 


14  CHAPTER  II. 

monly  called  "  dumps,"  are  used  in  every  day  traffic,  but  should 
a  person  require  more  than  one  dollar  at  a  time,  it  were  advisable 
to  employ  a  nogro  and  basket  to  transport  them. 

Among  the  devices  before  touched  upon,  in  the  way  of  ambu- 
lation,  was  one  which  amused  us  excessively.  Nothing  less  than 
a  four-mule  omnibus,  driven  by  the  most  remarkable  Jehu  ever 
beheld — evidently  one  who  had  soen,  or  at  least  heard  of,  the 
natty  style  things  were  conducted  at  Charing  Cross  before  rails 
were  laid.  I  had  the  honor  to  be  propelled  by  this  individual  a 
number  of  times,  and  it  was  well  worth  a  "  dump"  to  see  him 
pull  on  a  very  dirty  buskin  glove,  the  manner  he  handled  the 
rope  reins,  give  his  glazed  hat  a  rap,  and  button  up  a  huge  box 
coat,  with  the  sun  pouring  down  a  stream  of  noonday  fire  ;  then 
an  encouraging  yell  to  the  leaders,  swinging  himself  from  side  to 
side,  away  he  rattled  to  the  astonishment  of  every  wonder-loving 
person  in  the  neighborhood.  The  mules  acted  up  to  their  natural 
propensities  ;  at  times  dashing  along  the  sidewalks,  and  against 
houses  ;  again  coming  to  a  dead  halt,  and  favoring  each  other  with 
a  few  slapping  salutes  with  their  heels ;  then  off  they  clattered 
once  more,  until  about  to  double  a  sharp  corner,  when  if  they  did 
not  bolt  into  the  pulperia  opposite,  like  a  Habanese  volante,  the 
conductor,  with  the  most  imperturbable  dignity,  would  crack  his 
leathern  whip,  shout  like  a  devil,  and  do  his  possible  to  run  over 
a  covey  of  miserable  lame  blackies,  who  would  start  up  in  great  be- 
wilderment, like  boys  catching  trapball,  without  knowing  precisely 
in  which  direction  would  be  safest  to  dodge  the  eccentric  vehicle. 
I  always  cheered  my  friend  with  reiterated  marks  of  approbation, 
as  I  look  with  leniency  upon  the  peculiarities  of  mankind,  and 
ever  make  a  rule  to  respect  the  absurdities  of  others.  The  Jehu 


THE  JEIIU  DRIVER.  15 

whose  accomplishments  I  have  so  faintly  portrayed,  can  be  re- 
garded at  any  hour  of  the  day,  on  the  road  to  Boto  Fogo,  and  he 
will  be  found  quite  as  interesting  an  object  of  curiosity  as  the 
Falls  of  Tejuco,  to  say  nothing  of  the  fatigue  and  expense  of  the 
journey 


CHAPTER    III. 

MUCH  of  my  time  was  passed  with  friends  on  the  shores  of  the 
bay,  a  short  distance  beyond  Gloria  Hill,  and  I  was  in  a  certain 
degree  relieved  from  the  banging  and  roaring  of  cannon  fired  in 
compliment  to  distinguished  personages,  who  appear  to  select  Rio 
as  the  place  of  all  others,  where  they  may  smell  powder  to  their 
noses'  content ;  to  say  nothing  of  being  immured  on  ship-board 
after  nearly  two  months'  passage.  Escaping .  these  disagreeables,  I 
had  leisure  to  stretch  my  limbs  on  shore,  and  enjoy  the  perfumes 
of  flowers  and  fruit  from  the  stems  that  bore  them. 

It  is  in  the  direction  of  the  beach,  or,  as  the  Portuguese  have 
it,  Praya  Flamingo,  on  the  road  to  II  Cateto,  and  the  charming 
and  secluded  little  bay  of  Boto  Fogo,  that  most  of  the  diplo- 
matique corps,  and  foreign  merchants  reside.  The  houses  are 
rarely  more  than  two  stories  in  height,  a  combination  of  Venetian 
and  Italian  orders  of  architecture,  with  heavy  projecting  cornice, 
balconies  and  verandas,  and  washed  with  light  straw  or  bluish 
tints. 

The  saloons  are  always  spacious  and  lofty,  with  prettily  papered 
walls,  and  floors  of  the  beautiful,  dark  polished  wood  of  the  coun- 
try. Nearly  all  these  residences  are  surrounded  by  extensive 
gardens,  blooming  in  bright  and  brilliant  foliage,  only  matured 
beneath  the  burning  rays  of  a  vertical  sun.  There  are  no  springs 
in  Rio,  and  the  grounds  are  irrigated  by  miniature  aqueducts,  led 


VISIT  FROM  A  SCORPION.  ]7 

from  mountains  in  the  rear  ;  sufficiently  large,  however,  to  float 
in  their  narrow  channels,  serpents  and  many  other  noxious  reptiles, 
enough  to  make  one's  hair  stand  erect.  It  is  by  no  means  an  un- 
common occurrence  to  find  the  giracca,  a  venomous  snake,  insinu- 
ating themselves  within  the  sunny  marble  pavements  of  steps  and 
porticoes  and  I  was  assured  by  a  resident,  that  one  monster  after 
having  some  four  feet  cut  off  from  his  tail,  ran  away  with  head 
and  remaining  half  with  a  most  cricket-like  and  surprising  degree  of 
celerity.  Indeed  I  was  myself  a  witness  to  the  intrusion  of  an  in- 
dividual of  the  scorpion  breed,  who  walked  uninvited  into  the 
saloon,  and  was  on  the  point  of  stepping  up  a  young  lady's  ancle, 
when,  detecting  his  intention,  with  the  assistance  of  a  servant,  he 
was  enticed  into  a  bottle  that  he  might  sting  himself  or  the  glass 
at  pleasure.  Being  somewhat  unaccustomed  to  these  little  pro- 
datory  incursions,  I  was  particularly  cautious  during  the  remain- 
der of  my  stay,  to  examine  every  article,  from  a  tooth -pick  to  the 
couch,  before  touching  the  same.  Another  approximation  to  the 
same  genus  is  the  white  ant,  possessing  rather  a  literary  turn,  and 
I  was  told,  that  it  is  not  unusual  for  a  million  or  two  to  devour  a 
gentleman's  library — covers  and  all,  in  a  single  night.  I  have 
never  yet  been  able  to  conquer  disgust  for  even  docile,  harmless, 
speckled-back  lizards,  and  indeed  all  the  hosts  of  slimy,  crawl- 
ing reptiles  I  heartily  fear  and  abhor. 

We  found  the  town  in  a  furor  of  enthusiasm  in  admiration  of 
the  song  and  beauty  of  a  French  operatique  corps.  I  went  thrice 
and  was  well  repaid  for  the  dollars,  in  sweet  music  of  Auber  and 
Donizetti — there  were  two  prunas — for  serious  and  comique — 
both,  too,  primas  in  prettiness.  The  Academy  of  Paris  Music 
had  never,  perhaps,  seen  or  heard  of  Mesdames  Duval  and  her 
partner,  but  La  Sala  San  Januario  had  been  captivated  with 


18  CHAPTER  III. 


both,  and  beauty  covers  multitudes  of  faults,  particularly  with 
men,  for  what  care  we,  if  the  notes  touch  the  soul,  whether  a 
crystal  shade  higher  or  lower  than  Grisi,  or  Persiani,  so  long  as 
they  flow  from  rosy  lips,  that  might  defy  those  last-named  donnas 
to  rival,  even  with  the  brightest  carmine  of  their  toilets. 

The  theatre  itself  is  a  very  respectable  little  place,  having 
three  tiers  and  parquette.  The  royal  box  faces  the  stage,  hung 
with  damask.  The  whole  interior  of  the  building  was  quite 
Italian — every  box  railed  off  with  gilded  fret  work,  and  lighted 
with  candles  swinging  in,  glass  shades.  The  Brazilians  are  fond 
of  music,  and  all  the  world  attended  each  representation,  includ- 
ing the  Emperor,  Empress  and  Court.  As  I  had,  in  tunes  past, 
seen  a  good  deal  of  Don  Pedro,  when  he  was  a  studious,  medita- 
tive boy,  at  the  Palace  of  Boto  Fogo,  I  was  somewhat  curious  to 
observe  the  effect  of  old  time's  cutting  scythe  on  the  Lord's 
anointed,  as  well  as  on  the  rest  of  us  clay-built  mortals.  His  face 
and  shape  of  the  head  had  changed  very  little,  but  he  had  grown 
immensely  ;  tall,  awkward,  and  verging  on  corpulency  even  now, 
though  I  believe  he  is  only  twenty-eight  years  of  age.  His 
Italian  wife  appeared  much  older.  Both  were  well  and  plainly 
dressed,  attended  by  some  half  a  dozen  dames  and  dons  of  the 
court. 

The  curtain  rose  as  the  imperial  party  took  their  seats,  and 
there  were  neither  vivas,  nor  groaning  manifestations  to  express 
pleasure  or  disgust,  from  the  audience.  All  passed  quietly  and 
orderly,  like  sensible  persons,  who  came  to  hear  sweet  sounds, 
and  not  to  be  overawed  by  great  people.  I  made  the  tour  of  the 
donas  through  a  capital  lorgnette,  and  although  like  Mickey 
Free,  fond  of  tobacco  and  ladies,  I  must  pledge  my  solemn 
assurances,  that  with  the  exception  of  something  pretty,  at- 


BRAZILIAN  DAMSELS.  19 


tached  to  the  French  company,  there  was  not  a  loveable  woman 
to  be  seen.  I  doubt  not  but  there  are  rare  jewels  to  be  found  in 
out  of  the  way  spots,  secluded  from  public  gaze,  but  it  was 
terra  incognita  to  me,  and  we  saw  none  other  than  the  light  mo- 
lasses-hued  damsels,  who  are  fully  matured  at  thirteen,  and 
decidedly  passee  at  three  and  twenty.  In  the  present  age  it  is  a 
questionable  inference  if  saponaceous  compounds  might  not  be  ju- 
diciously used  in  removing  some  few  stains  that  nature  is  entirely 
innocent  of  painting ;  albeit,  a  lovely  Anglo-Saxon  of  my  ac- 
quaintance was  vastly  horrified  at  thoughts  of  a  friend  espous- 
ing one  of  these  cream-colored  beauties,  valued  at  a  conto  of  rais, 
and  shiploads  of  coffee  ;  and  assured  the  deluded  swain,  with 
tears  in  her  eyes,  that  it  would  require  more  than  half  his  fortune 
to  keep  his  wife  in  soap — supposing  she  should  acquire  the  weak- 
ness or  ambition  to  become  enamored  of  fresh  water. 


CHAPTER    IV. 

'Uptorn  reluctant  from  its  oozy  cave, 
The  ponderous  anchor  rises  o'er  the  wave.' 


ON  the  twenty-ninth  of  October,  the  anchors  were  loosened 
from  their  muddy  "beds ;  a  light  land  wind  fanned  us  out  of  the 
harbor,  and  with  a  white  silver  moon,  we  began  our  dreary  march 
towards  Cape  Horn. 

The  following  night  the  ship  was  dashing  over  the  seas  eleven 
miles  the  hour.  The  bell  had  just  struck  eight,  watch  set,  and  the 
topmen  came  dancing  gaily  down  the  rigging,  here  and  there  one, 
with  a  pea  jacket  snugly  tied  up  and  held  by  the  teeth,  prepara- 
tory to  a  four  hours'  snooze  in  the  hammocks,  when  a  moment 
after  the  cry,  "  Look  out,  Bill ! — Overboard  ! — Man  overboard  !" 
was  cried  from  the  main  rigging,  and  amid  the  bustle  that  ensued, 
the  voice  of  the  poor  drowning  wretch  was  heard  in  broken  ex- 
clamations of  agony,  as  the  frigate  swept  swiftly  by.  Down 
went  the  helm,  and  sails  were  taken  in  as  she  came  up  to  the 
wind,  but  by  the  strangest  fatality,  both  life  buoys  were  with 
difficulty  cast  adrift,  and  even  then  the  blue  lights  did  not  ignite. 
A  boat  was  soon  lowered,  and  sent  in  the  vessel's  wake.  An 
hour  passed  in  the  search,  without  hearing  or  seeing  ought  but 
the  rude  winds  and  breaking  waves  ;  and  this  is  the  last  ever 
known  of  poor  Bill  de  Conick. 

He  struck  the  channels  from  a  fall  of  twenty  feet  up  the  rig- 


WE  LOSE  A  SHIP-MATE.  21 


ging,  and  was  probably  either  encumbered  by  heavy  clothing,  or 
too  much  injured  to  be  able  to  reach  the  buoys. 

Friday,  too,  the  day  of  all  others  in  our  superstitious  ca- 
lendar for  those  "  who  go  down  to  the  sea  in  ships  :"  even  amid 
a  large  crew,  where  many,  if  not  all,  are  utterly  reckless  of  life, 
an  incident  of  this  nature  sheds  a  momentary  gloom  around,  and 
serves  to  make  many  reflect,  that  the  same  unlucky  accident 
might  have  wrapped  any  other  in  the  same  chilling  shroud. 
There  are  few  more  painful  sights  in  the  world  than  to  behold  the 
imploring  looks,  with  outstretched  hands,  of  a  fellow  being, 

— "  "When  peril  has  numbed  the  sense  and  will, 

Though  the  hand  and  the  foot  may  struggle  still—" 

silently  invoking  help,  when  all  human  aid  is  unavailing — before 
the  angry  waves  press  him  below  the  surface,  to  a  sailor's  grave. 
Aye,  there  can  be  no  more  dreadful  scenes  to  make  the  strong 
man  shudder  than  these.  Yet  it  seems  a  wise  ordination  in  our 
natures,  that  the  sharp  remembrance  of  these  painful  incidents  is 
so  rapidly  dispelled.  This  very  characteristic  of  the  sailor,  his 
heedless  indifference  to  the  future,  in  a  great  degree  makes  up  his 
measure  of  contentment  in  all  the  toils  and  dangers  that  beset  his 
course,  unconscious  that  time, 

"Like  mu/lled  drums,  are  beating  funeral  marches  to  the  grave." 

A  fortnight  flew  quickly  by,  the  good  ship  going  at  as  lively 
a  pace.  We  passed  the  wide  mouth  of  La  Plata,  buttoned 
our  jackets,  and  slept  under  blankets.  As  the  weather  became 
colder,  mammy  Carey  and  her  broods,  with  goneys,  albatrosses, 
boobies  and  cape  pigeons,  swarmed  around  the  wake,  to  pick  up 
the  stray  crumbs.  Divers  hooks  and  lines  were  thrown  out  to  en 
tice  them  aboard,  but  for  a  long  interval  all  efforts  proved  fruit- 


22  CHAPTER    IV. 


less,  until  one  morning,  an  albatross  abstractedly  swallowed  the 
bait,  and  much  to  his  surprise  was  pulled  on  board,  like  to  a  boy's 
kite.  He  measured  eleven  feet  four  inches,  with  enormous  quills 
and  feathers,  and  such  a  bed  of  down  the  monster  had  concealed 
about  his  oily  person,  was  never  known  nearer  than  an  eider 
duck.  He  had  large,  fierce,  black  eyes,  too,  with  a  beak  sharp, 
and  hard  enough  to  have  nipped  a  silver  dollar  into  bits.  Whales 
favored  us  occasionally  with  an  inspection — rolled  their  round 
snouts  out  of  water — tossed  a  few  tons  of  foam  in  the  air— threw 
up  their  enormous  flukes — struck  the  waves  one  splashing  blow, 
and  then  went  down  to  examine  the  soundings.  Thus  we  sailed 
along  the  dull  shores  of  Patagonia,  with  the  long  taper  top  gal- 
lant masts  replaced  by  stumps  to  stand  up  more  obstinately 
against  the  furious  tempests  of  the  "  still  vexed  Bermoothes"  of 
Cape  Horn,  the  bugbear  of  all  landsmen,  and  the  place  of  all 
others,  where  more  yarns  are  spun,  wove,  and  wondered  at,  than 
from  China  to  Peru.  He  was  a  bold  sailor  any  way,  who  ficst 
doubled  the  Cape,  whatever  others  may  be  who  follow.  At  last 
came  our  turn,  and  on  the  afternoon  of  the  sixteenth  day 
from  Rio,  the  clouds  lifting,  we  saw  the  dark,  jagged,  rugged 
bluffs  and  steeps  of  Staten  and  Terra  del  Fuego.  The  next 
morning  we  rounded  Cape  St.  John,  and  were  received  by  the 
long  swelling  waves  of  the  sister  ocean.  If  the  great  Balboa 
when  standing  on  the  mountains  of  Panama,  regarding  the  placid 
waves  of  the  equatorial  ocean,  could  have  known  the  tempestuous 
gales  and  giant  seas  of  the  polar  regions,  sporting  around  this 
snowy  cape,  he  might  possibly  have  been  less  overjoyed  at  his 
grand  discovery.  Our  pleasant  weather  and  smooth  seas  clung 
to  us,  to  the  last,  and,  as  if  loth  to  leave,  gave  one  unclouded 
view  of  Staten  Land,  like  a  casting  in  bronze,  with  the  bleak, 


CAPE  HORN.  23 

snow-capped  heights,  tinged  hy  the  rising  sun.  An  hour  after 
the  bright  sky  was  veiled  by  mist,  the  rising  gale,  from  the  west, 
brought  hail  and  chilling  rain.  We  lost  sight  of  land,  reefed  the 
sails  close  down,  and  then  bid  defiance  to  the  storm.  Nothing 
venture  nothing  gain,  is  as  true  with  ships'  rigging,  as  thimble 
rigsing,  and  we  staked  all  our  hopes  on  a  rapid  passage.  Sorry 
work  we  made  of  it.  The  very  birds  were  obliged  to  trim  their 
pinions  with  great  nicety  in  beating  to  windward — even  then  a 
terrible  gust  ruffled  their  plumes,  and  away  they  were  driven, 
eddying,  and  screaming,  to  leeward.  Still  we  strove  the  tempests 
to  disarm,  by  stout  hearts,  and  tough  canvas,  with  partial  suc- 
cess, too,  for  even  with  adverse  winds,  we  managed  to  get  to  the 
southward,  besides  making  something  in  the  voyage  ;  blessed,  also, 
by  a  cool,  bracing  atmosphere,  and  day  and  twilight  the  whole 
twenty-four  hours.  Though  the  sun  in  tracking  his  bright  career 
in  either  hemisphere  is  supposed  to  tinge  the  land  and  sea  be 
neath  his  blaze,  with  what  is  generally  called  summer,  yet  an  ex- 
ception to  the  rule  exists  in  vicinity  of  Cape  Horn.  The  days, 
it  is  true,  are  longer  ;  in  fact  the  night  is  day,  but  the  sun  diffuses 
no  pleasant,  genial  warmth,  and  is  only  seen  peering  out  from  be- 
hind the  clouds,  with  a  careworn,  desolate,  blurred  face,  as  if  he 
was  ashamed  of  his  company,  and  had  marched  entirely  out  of 
his  beat. 

In  all  this  time  hardly  an  incident  occurred  to  make  us  even 
wink,  except,  perhaps,  the  tumble  of  a  topman  from  aloft,  who 
was  picked  up  with  a  fractured  spine ;  and  a  little  sauciness,  re- 
proved by  our  stout  armorer,  through  the  intervention  of  an  iron 
rod  upon  the  limbs  of  a  tall  negro,  thereby  breaking  his  arm  in 
two  places.  One's  bones  are  brittle  in  frosty  weather,  and  young 
V^ulcan  was  made  to  submit  to  severe  personal  damages.  I  must 


24  CHAPTER  IV. 


chronicle  also  the  sudden  demise  of  a  venerable  sergeant  of  ma- 
rines,  who  departed  this  life  one  cold  night,  while  relieving  the 
guard  under  the  forecastle — the  next  day  he  was  consigned  to  the 
mighty  deep,  divested  of  all  his  worldly  accoutrements,  save  a 
hammock  and  a  couple  of  round  shot,  to  pull  him  into  eternity. 
We  had  not  exchanged  nautical  salutations  since  leaving  port, 
and  well  nigh  believed  the  ocean  was  deserted ;  however,  one  day 
there  came  looming  through  the  mist  and  rain,  a  large  ship,  with 
all  her  flaunting  muslin  spread,  running  before  the  gale — the  dis- 
tance was  too  great  to  make  out  her  colors,  but  sufficiently  near 
to  cause  some  of  us  to  wonder  when  our  bark's  prow  would  be 
turned  in  the  same  direction,  and  the  sheets  eased  off  for  home. 
Speaking  of  ships,  while  at  Rio  an  American  vessel  of  war  ar- 
rived, and  our  sympathies  were  universally  enlisted  on  learning 
that  she  had  been  two  long  months  trying  to  reach  Valparaiso, 
but  when  off  the  Horn,  or  in  fact  after  having  passed  it,  she  ex- 
perienced tremendous  hurricanes  and  giant  waves,  which  blew  the 
sails  to  ribbons,  tore  away  the  boats,  shattered  the  stern  frame, 
and  left  her  altogether  in  a  most  distressing  and  heart-rending 
condition,  consequently  she  put  back.  It  was  worthy  of  remark, 
however,  that  she  came  buoyantly  into  the  harbor,  tricked  out  in 
a  bran  new  suit  of  clothes,  and  when  a  number  of  officers  went  on 
board  to  survey  her  pitiable  plight,  they  could  find  neither  leak 
nor  strain,  and  very  sensibly  concluded  she  was  one  of  the 
staunchest  and  best  corvettes  in  the  navy,  as  indeed  she  was. 
John  Bull  took  back  his  mails  and  declared  he  would  never  take 
advantage  again  of  a  crack  Yankee  sloop-of-war  to  forward  im- 
portant dispatches  by. 

Our  pleasures  were  now  limited,  no  one  raised  his  nose  above 
the  taffrail  if  not  compelled ;  our  chief  resource  was  reading,  and 


WHAT  WE  DID  FOR  PASTIME.  35 

after  absorbing  heaps  of  ephemeral  trash  drifting  about  the  decks, 
we  sought  the  library  and  poured  over  ponderous  tomes  of  phys- 
ics, history  or  travels.  Eooks  find  their  true  value  a  shipboard — 
cut  off  from  all  amusement  of  the  land,  we  derive  the  full  benefit 
by  reading,  for  more  than  reading's  sake,  or  for  the  purpose  of 
killing  time  in  silly  abstraction,  and  many  a  stupid  author  is  tho- 
roughly digested,  and  many  labored  narrations  of  voyages  are 
carefully  studied,  whose  narrators  have  "  compiled  very  dull  books 
from  very  interesting  materials,"  and  they  should  be  grateful  to 
governments  for  purchasing,  and  thankful  for  indifferent  persons 
to  peruse  them. 

On  the  advent  of  Saturday  nights,  when  the  wind  was  blowing 
cold  and  dreary,  we  sought  the  lowest  depths  of  the  frigate. 
Facilis  decensus  averni,  in  other  words,  "  'tis  easy  to  dive  into 
the  cock-pit' — there-  in  a  cozy  state-room,  we  made  a  jovial  little 
party,  conducted  on  strictly  private  principles,  for  the  purpose  of 
seeking  medical  advice.  We  consulted  a  pot-bellied  gentleman, 
with  a  small  copper  kettle  on  his  head,  illumined  by  a  spirit  lamp, 
whilom,  termed  Doctor  Faustus — unlike  the  Sangrado  practition- 
ers, the  Doctor  constantly  poured  out  instead  of  in.  One  humor- 
fcume  fellow,  the  President  of  our  club,  who  was  rather  stout  on 
his  pins,  and  carce  par  la  base,  poured  forth  wit  and  hot 
water  by  the  hour,  diversifying  both  occasionally,  by  ravishing 
(strains  on  the  violin,  and  chanting  Virginia  melodies,  which  acted 
on  the  heels  of  one  of  our  attendants,  in  a  complicated  series  of 
jigs,  called  the  double  shuffle. 

At  last  the  fates  befriended  us  ;  a  new  moon  appeared,  and  the 
west  wind  having  apparently  blown  itself  out  of  breath,  a  breeze 
sprang  up  from  south-east  and  commenced  blowing  the  sea  and 
ourselves  in  an  opposite  direction ;  snow  fell  thick  and  fast,  driv- 


26  CHAPTER  IV. 

ing  the  thermometer  below  freezing  point,  and  barometer  running 
rapidly  up.  As  the  flakes  fell  and  adhered  to  rigging  and  sails, 
the  entire  mass  of  ropes,  spars  and  hampers  were  soon  clothed  in 
icy  white  jackets.  The  sun  broke  out  for  a  moment  and  con- 
verted a  showering  cloud  of  snow  into  a  magnificent  bow.  Rain- 
bows of  sun  and  moon  are  beheld  by  the  million,  but  seldom  a 
novelty  like  a  snow-bow  !  The  ship  was  hurried  along  at  great 
speed  on  the  sixtieth  parallel,  until  reaching  the  meridian  of  eighty, 
when  we  bore  away  to  the  northward.  Congratulating  ourselves 
with  the  hope  that  the  clerk  of  the  weather  had  forgotten  to  an- 
nounce our  arrival  to  the  court  of  winds  hi  the  great  South  Pacific ; 
faint  delusion  ! — off  the  gusty  isle  of  Chiloe,  we  had  a  hug  from 
a  gale,  which,  however,  exhausted  itself  in  a  few  hours,  and  then 
left  us  to  flounder  about  on  the  mountainous  backs  of  waves  as 
best  we  might — then  there  was  an  interval  of  rain  and  squalls  from 
all  quarters,  when  the  breeze  again  came  fair,  and  on  the  second  of 
December,  we  anchored  at  Valparaiso,  just  five  weeks  from  Ric 
Janeiro. 


CHAPTER    V. 

THERE  can  be  no  greater  satisfaction  to  a  wind-buffetted  rover, 
than  sailing  into  a  new  plac6,  and  the  consolation  of  knowing 
there  are  still  others  behind  the  curtain.  It  was  thus  we  felt, 
and  after  rounding  the  Point  of  Angels,  and  casting  anchor  in  the 
Bay  of  Paradise,  fancied  ourselves  quite  in  altissimo  spirits,  if  not 
precisely  in  cielo. 

On  approaching  the  Chilian  coast,  the  eye  of  course  seeks  the 
white-robed  Cordilleras,  and  well  worthy  the  sight  they  are — 
forty  leagues  inland,  cutting  the  sky  in  sharp,  clear  outlines,  with 
peaks  of  frosted  silver,  until  the  attention  is  fairly  arrested  by  the 
stupendous  peak  of  the  Bell  of  Quillota,  and  Tupongati,  the  co- 
lossus of  all,  tumbling  as  it  were,  from  the  very  zenith — then 
nearer,  diminuendoiug  down  to  the  ocean,  are  generations  of 
lesser  heights,  each,  however,  a  giant  in  itself,  until  their  bases 
are  laved  by  the  Pacific.  It  is  a  grand  coup  d^adl  at  rise  or  set 
of  sun ;  but  there  is  a  sameness  about  masses  of  reddish  rocks, 
ravines  and  mountains  of  the  foreground,  and  one  is  apt  to  doubt 
the  immense  height  of  those  beyond,  from  the  gradual  rise 
around.  Moreover,  there  is  nothing  striking  or  diversified,  as 
with  their  tall  brothers  in  Switzerland  or  Asia ;  snowy  tops  with- 
out glaciers ;  frightful  chasms,  and  sweeping  valleys,  without  tor- 


28  CHAPTER  V. 


rents  or  verdure  ;  all  this  is  nature's  design,  but  the  decorations 
have  been  forgotten,  and  bare  walls  of  mount  and  deep  is  all  that 
appears  finished. 

Little  can  be  said  commendatory  of  Valparaiso  ;  and  truly  I 
think  the  most  rabid  of  limners  would  meet  with  difficulty  in  get- 
ting an  outside  view  from  any  point ;  for,  owing  to  formation  of 
the  land,  furrowed  into  scores  of  ravines  by  the  rush  and  wash  of 
creation,  with  the  town  running  oddly  enough  along  the  ridges, 
or  down  in  the  gullies,  it  becomes  a  matter  of  optical  skill,  for  a 
single  pair  of  eyes  to  compass  more  than  a  small  portion  at  a 
glance. 

The  houses  are  mean ;  streets  narrow  and  nasty ;  the  former 
are  built  of  adobies — unbaked  bricks  of  great  thickness — or  lathed, 
plastered  and  stuccoed ;  the  latter  paved  with  small  pebbles  no 
bigger  than  pigeons'  eggs,  and  only  those  running  with  the  shores 
of  the  bay,  are  at  all  walkable.  A  little  way  back  in  thequebra- 
das,  or  broken  ground,  is  like,  stepping  over  angular  Flemish 
roofs,  and  with  a  long  leg  and  short  one,  to  preserve  an  equipoise, 
you  may  walk  along  these  inclined  planes  without  any  serious 
personal  danger,  save  what  consists  in  liquids  thrown  on  your 
head,  and  the  torture  endured  by  your  corns. 

There  is  not  a  single  public  edifice  in  Valparaiso  worthy  of 
even  passing  admiration.  The  custom  house  is  most  conspicu- 
ous, facing  the  port ;  the  theatre  fronts  one  of  two  small  squares, 
and  but  a  few  meanly  built  churches  are  to  be  found,  packed 
away,  out  of  sight,  under  the  steep  hills  back  of  the  city.  Im- 
provements, however  were  planned,  and  rapidly  progressing. 
The  port  for  many  years  had  been  steadily  rising  hi  wealth  and 
population,  under  the  sure  incentives  of  a  large  foreign  trade, 
and  the  enterprise  of  foreign  residents ;  and  all  that  appears  ne- 


BUSY  SCENES.  29 

cessary  to  make  the  city  much  in  advance  of  other  commercial 
rivals  in  the  Pacific,  is  that  Dame  Nature  should  play  excavating 
Betty  on  the  next  earthquake,  and  remove  a  few  of  the  obtru- 
sive hills  that  encroach  so  abruptly  upon  the  bay. 

There  is  an  unusual  bustle  pervading  the  quay  and  streets,  for 
a  Spanish  Creole  town.  As  ships  cannot  approach  the  unpro- 
tected shores  to  discharge  their  cargoes,  the  port  is  crowded  with 
multitudes  of  lighters  and  whale  boats,  constantly  passing  to  and 
fro,  while  porters,  bending  under  packages  of  goods,  copper,  and 
produce,  are  moving  from  the  duana,  or  warehouses,  to  the  mole 
and  beach.  Videttes  of  mounted  police  are  posted  at  every 
corner,  and  small  guards  of  soldiers  in  the  streets,  supervising  the 
exertions  of  gangs  of  convicts  at  work  for  the  authorities.  In 
emulation,  also,  of  the  means  of  locomotion  in  vogue  at  Rio, 
there  has  been  introduced  a  ricketty  contrivance,  of  the  cab 
genus,  called  lirloches,  to  which  is  attached  a  horse  within  the 
shafts,  and  another  to  caper  at  the  side,  similar  to  a  Russian 
drosky,  until  a  relay  is  required,  when  they  are  changed.  They 
rattle  through  the  town  with  reckless  speed,  urged  by  lash  and 
spur  of  the  driver  mounted  on  the  outside  beast.  The  same  sys- 
tem is  pursued  on  the  longest  journeys,  with  merely  the  addition 
of  a  larger  drove  of  animals  to  make  up  their  own  posts  from  the 
cavalcade — the  only  respite  from  labor  remaining  in  the  privi- 
lege of  travelling  at  the  same  rate  without  the  load. 

Shops  are  sufficiently  numerous,  filled  with  manufactured  goods 
from  Europe  and  the  United  States,  with  lots  of  gimcrackery 
from  China.  In  the  old  plaza  at  night,  almost  every  inch  of 
ground  is  occupied  by  itinerant  venders  of  wares,  toys,  shoes, 
combs,  fried  fish,  fruit,  and  dnlces ;  each  squatted  on  his  own 
cloth  counter,  with  paper  lanterns  at  the  sides.  The  proprietors 


30  CHAPTER  V. 


of  these  ambulating  establishments  are  women  and  children.  A 
fine  band  discourses  delightful  music,  on  alternate  evenings,  and 
when  one  feels  disposed  to  say  pretty  speeches  to  pretty  damas, 
moving  gracefully  around,  and  enjoy  what  is  in  reality  a  touch  of 
Spanish  life,  it  were  as  well  to  saunter  an  hour  on  the  plaza. 

Valparaiso  is  extremely  disproportioned  in  breadth  to  its  great 
length,  necessarily  so,  from  the  jutting  elevations  that  hang  over 
it.  Immediately  back  of  the  heart  of  the  city  are  a  number  of 
these  salient  spurs,  on  one  of  which  is  planted  the  Campo  Santo 
— foreign  and  native  cemeteries— while  those  to  the  right  have 
been,  by  trouble  and  means  of  the  foreigners,  cleared  away  into 
small  esplanades,  having  neat  and  pretty  cottages,  surrounded  by 
shrubbery — one,  the  flora  pondia,  a  very  beautiful,  but  diminu- 
tive tree,  blossoms  luxuriantly,  with  delicate,  white  flowers, 
shaped  like  inverted  cones,  or  bells,  and  although  shedding  no 
odor  during  the  day,  yet  at  night  it  fairly  renders  the  air  oppres- 
sive with  perfume.  These  lofty  turrets  command  fine  views  of 
bay,  shipping,  and  port,  fully  repaying  the  fatigue  of  getting  up, 
in  the  absence  of  dust,  dirt  and  noise. 

To  the  left,  bordering  close  upon  the  harbor,  is  a  long  curving 
promenade,  called  El  almendral — almond  grove — for  no  other 
reason  possibly  than  that  there  is  not  a  vestige  of  trees  or  ver- 
dant leaves  to  be  se"en.  Away  at  the  southward,  in  the  opposite 
extremity  of  the  city,  on  what  the  sailors  designate  as  the  fore 
and  main  tops,  is  another  succession  of  sharply  riven  ravines,  filled 
and  faced  with  clusters  of  one  storied  dwellings,  from  the  sum- 
mits down  to  the  narrow  gorges  between  It  requires  some  geo- 
graphical knowledge  to  explore  these  regions,  and  though  the  toil 
of  clambering  about  the  uneven  chasms  and  numerous  lanes,  be 
not  pleasant,  yet  one  is  recompensed  while  mounting  the  steep 


AN  AGREEABLE  ACQUAINTANCE.  31 

acclivities  .by  the  most  novel  and  striking  views  of  the  sea  or 
city  at  every  turn — never  being  able  to  determine  where  the 
next  flight  will  lead — whether  but  a  few  yards  from  the  spot  just 
left,  with  a  bird's  eye  view  of  the  shipping,  or  shut  up  in  small 
causeways  between  redly-tiled  roofs,  with  the  scene  closed  by  bar- 
riers of  whitewashed  walls,  and  even  after  attaining  another  airy 
eminence,  under  the  belief  of  having  the  broad  ocean  spread  out 
at  your  feet,  one  is  startled  to  find  himself  gazing  quite  in  another 
direction.  These  tops,  with  the  quebradas  between,  are  portions 
of  the  terrace,  where  we  spent  some  pleasant  hours,  dancing  the 
samacueca,  or  fandangos,  to  the  tinkling  of  guitars,  swept  by 
nimble  fingers  of  sloe-eyed  Chilians.  We  were  always  received 
courteously  and  sincerely,  and  in  making  ourselves  particularly 
agreeable,  have  been  occasionally  treated  to  a  sip  of  weak  rum 
negus. 

Once,  accompanied  by  a  friend  in  these  exploring  rambles,  we 
had  the  good  fortune,  through  the  medium  of  cigarillos,  smiles, 
and  a  smattering  of  Castilian,  to  make  the  acquaintance  of  a  hos- 
pitable old  lady  and  her  two  pretty  daughters.  Carmencita  was 
my  favorite — lovely  Carmencita  !  SLie  was  very  pretty — large, 
very  large  black  eyes,  half  shut  with  roguery,  or  coquetry  ; 
an  adorable  plump  little  figure,  and  what  with  a  fairy  touch  of 
the  guitar,  a  soft,  plaintive  voice,  and  a  fondness  for  cigarillos, 
we  thought  her  one  of  the  most  enchanting  amourettes  imagi- 
nable. Poor  Carmen  !  She  had  just  lost  by  the  fell  destroyer 
her  lover,  who  was  a  superintendent  of  mines  in  San  Felipe,  but 
who  had  the  generosity  during  his  last  moments,  to  leave  his  ten- 
der sweetheart  a  handsome  legacy,  a  letter  to  the  French  consul, 
and  his  blessing.  Pretty  Carmen !  She  preserved  each  and 
all  of  these  interesting  relics,  with  great  care,  and  although, 


32  CHAPTER  V. 


"  Souvent  femme  varie,  bicn  fol  est  qui  s'y  fie,"  she  resisted  all 
further  assaults  upon  her  heart — confessed  that  I  had  luen  sen- 
timientos,  but,  nevertheless,  she  had  resolved  to  live  and  die 
within  the  severest  rules  of  platonism. 

I  know  not  how  or  why,  but  there  certainly  is  an  irresistible 
charm,  that  floats  like  a  mist  around  Spanish  Creoles ;  indeed, 
Creoles  of  all  nations  have  a  style  of  fascination  peculiarly  their 
own,  which  renders  them  truly  bewitching,  with  the  power  of  re- 
taining their  spells  as  long,  and  as  strong  as  any.  Not  that  their 
features  are  more  beautiful,  eyes  brighter,  or  manners  even  as 
refined  as  those  in  older  countries,  for  they  are  not ;  but  still 
they  have  soft,  languishing  eyes,  rich,  dark  hair,  and  pliant, 
graceful  forms,  combined  with  the  greatest  possible  charm  in  wo- 
man, earnest,  unaffected,  and  amiable  dispositions. 

It  is  to  be  wondered  at,  too,  that  in  remote  countries,  where  so 
few  advantages  are  attainable  in  education,  knowledge  of  the 
world  and  society,  that  they  should  be  so  well  supplied  with 
pretty  airs  and  graces.  It  can  only  be  attributable  to  that  sub- 
limated coquette  Nature  herself,  who  provides  those  little  goods 
the  gods  deny. 

We  had  the  pleasure  of  attending  a  number  of  tertulias,  or 
evening  parties  given  in  the  houses  of  native  residents,  and  witness- 
ing the  dances  of  the  country.  The  tertulia  is  easy  and  sociable, 
without  form  or  ceremony.  The  bayles  are  more  staid  affairs, 
where  ladies  are  seated  in  silent  rows  by  themselves — men  very 
hairy  and  grummy — taking  advantage  of  intervals  in  dancing  to 
lounge  on  the  piazzas,  swallow  a  few  mouthfuls  of  cigar  smoke, 
(not^a  bad  institution  this  in  warm  weather,)  and  exclaim,  dios 
que  color  I  (how  hot.)  At  one  of  these  assemblies  we  first  saw  a 
minuet  called  the  samacueca.  It  was  undertaken  by  a  beautiful 


THE  OPERA.  33 


young  married  lady,  in  company  with  a  rather  corpulent  old  gen- 
tleman, and  danced  in  a  very  sprightly,  rogueish  manner.  The 
prelude  and  music  is  similar  to  that  of  fandangos,  but  the  move- 
ments and  motif  are  far  more  indelicate,  and  it  is  by  no  means  a 
matter  of  difficulty  to  divine  the  meaning.  Although  these  inno- 
cent ballets  would  no  doubt  shockingly  jar  the  nerves  of  a  more 
refined  audience,  and  many  a  performer  might  be  considered  "  too 
fine  a  dancer  for  a  virtuous  woman,"  yet  I  am  convinced  that 
among  these  unaffected  Creoles,  naught  is  seen  in  the  least  degree 
improper,  but  they  are  regarded  from  infancy  as  the  harmless 
customs  and  amusements  of  their  country.  As  an  individual  I 
am  fond  of  a  notion  of  cayenne  to  existence,  and  only  clapped 
hands,  or  cried,  bravo,  !  bucna  !  bonita  ! 

The  opera  was  in  full  blast — the  house  large  and  convenient, 
with  very  pretty  scenic  displays,  and  quite  a  brilliant  constella- 
tion of  Italian  stars  to  illumine  the  proscenium,  but  on  no  repre- 
sentation did  there  appear  evidence  in  the  boxes  that  the  mana- 
ger's purse  was  filled.  We  had  the  honor  of  being  presented  to 
the  primo  basso,  Signor  Marti,  who  conversed  pleasantly  with  a 
melodramatic  voice  from  apparently  very  low  down  in  his  boots. 
We  listened  to  his  sweet  seguadillas  with  rapture. 

We  found  the  climate  truly  delightful.  It  was  the  summer  of 
the  southern  ocean — pure,  pleasant  breezes  with  the  sun,  and 
clear,  calm,  sparkling  nights  by  moon  or  stars.  Little  or  no 
rain  falls,  except  in  the  winter  months,  and  as  a  consequence 
where  the  soil  is  fine  and  dry,  dust  covers  everything  in  impalpa- 
ble clouds,  at  the  same  time  affording  a  desirable  atmosphere  for- 
that  lively  individual,  the  flea  ! 

On  the  coast  of  Syria  the  Arabs  hold  to  the  proverb  that  the 
Sultan  of  fleas  holds  his  court  in  Jaffa,  and  the  Grand  Vizier 


34  CHAPTER  V. 


in  Cairo  ;  but  so  far  as  our  experience  went  in  Valparaiso,  we 
could  safely  give  the  lie  to  the  adage.  "  As  an  unobtrusive  person 
myself,  I  have  a  constitutional  antipathy  to  the  entire  race,  and 
invariably  use  every  precaution  to  avoid  their  society — all  to  no 
purpose.  They  found  me  in  crowds  or  solitudes — alighted  on  me 
in  swarms,  like  -the  locusts  of  Egypt,  destroying  enjoyment  on 
shore,  and  I  fully  resolved  never,  to  venture  abroad  again,  of 
mine  own  free  will,  until  some  enterprising  Yankee  shall  invent  a 
trap  for  their  annihilation. 

I  remember  one  mild  afternoon  sauntering  on  the  almendral, 
when  my  attention  was  drawn  to  a  lithe,  young  damsel  on  the 
sidewalk,  who,  whilst  tripping  along  with"  a  dainty  gait,  suddenly 
gave  her  foot  a  backward  twist,  with  a  dexterous  pinch  at  the 
pretty  ancle,  and  again  went  on  like  a  bird.  She  had  captured 
a  flea !  but  it  was  a  style  of  piedermain  'worthy  of  the  great 
Adrien  ;  a  feat  I  was  prepared  to  believe  nearly  equal  to  mounted 
Cossacks  picking  up  pins  fr6m  the  ground  with  their  teeth,  at  full 
speed — in  fact,  something  really  wonderful,  and  although  I  was 
quite  confounded,  and  almost  speechless  with  amazement,  yet  I 
followed  mechanically  in  order  to  see  what  she  could  or  would  ac- 
complish next.  Nor  could  I  repress  some  audible  expressions  of 
encouragement ;  but  the  fair  doncella,  unconscious  of  having  per- 
formed anything  remarkable,  gave  me  a  look,  as  much  as  to  say, 
in  the  language  of  a  touching  nautical  ballad — 

"Go  away  young  man — my  company  forsake." 

So  not  wishing  to  appear  intrusive,  I  returned  pensively  to  mine 
inn. 

Fashions  in  ladies'  dress  are  similar  to  those  in  Europe  or  the 
United  States,  and  even  among  the  lower  orders  the  bonnet  i? 


AN  INDOLENT  RACE.  35 

worn  ;  but  to  uiy  way  of  thinking,  a  Spanish  girl's  forte  is  in  a 
black  satin  robe  and  slippers,  a  flowing  mantilla^  fine,  smooth 
jetty  tresses,  and  a  waving  fan  to  act  as  breakflash  to  sparkling 
eyes  ! 

Of  the  men  of  Chili,  or  at  least  those  of  them  whom  transient 
visitors  encounter  in  the  usual  lounging  resorts  of  vaut-riens, — 
theatres,  cafes,  tertulias,  plazas,  and  other  purlieus,  they  cannot  be 
said  to  compare  with  their  captivating  sisters — for  a  more  indolent, 
hairy,  cigar-puffing  race  of  bipeds  never  existed.  In  dress  they 
ape  the  faded  fashions  of  Europe,  retaining,  however,  the  native 
cloak  costume  of  the  poncho.  It  is  a  capital  garment  for  either 
the  road  or  the  saddle,  leaving  free  play  to  the  arms,  and  at  the 
same  time  a  protection  from  dust  or  rain.  It  is  worn  by  all 
classes,  and  composed  of  the  gaudiest  colors,  occasionally  re- 
sembling a  remarkably  bright  pattern  of  a  drawing  room  carpet, 
with  the  head  of  the  wearer  thrust  through  a  slit  in  the  centre. 

The  President  of  Chili  during  our  visit  was  General  Bulnes,  a 
soldier  of  distinction  in  the  civil  wars  of  his  own  state,  with  a 
laurel  or  two  won  in  numerous  bloody  blows  dealt  upon  the  neigh- 
boring Peruvians.  As  the  hero  of  Yungai,  his  Excellency  was 
elevated  to  his  present  position  by  the  bayonets  of  the  troops,  but 
latterly  he  evinced  a  keen  sagacity  in  reducing  to  a  small  force  this 
army  of  vagabonds,  who  are  prone,  in  South  American  republics, 
in  the  absence  of  more  agreeable  occupation,  to  amuse  themselves 
with  hatching  conspiracies  for  the  purpose  of  slitting  the  throats  of 
their  former  coadjutors. 

There  was  but  one  regiment  of  infantry,  and  a  few  hundred 
cavalry  in  Valparaiso.  The  militia  system,  as  with  us,  had  been 
partially  introduced  throughout  the  provinces.  It  answered  every 
purpose  at  much  less  expense  than  regular  troops,  indeed  excel- 


36  CHAPTER    V. 


lently  well,  as  a  police,  and  to  the  credit  of  Senor  Bulnes'  sub- 
alterns, good  order  was  most  strictly  and  promptly  enforced  in  his 
sea-port. 

Every  one  subscribed  to  the  opinion  that  the  government  was 
firmly  established,  which  may  have  been  attributable,  in  some 
measure,  to  the  decided  argument  suggested  by  the  President. 
Shooting,  instead  of  talking,  down  all  opposition.  By  these  de- 
cided proceedings  he  has  been  enabled  to  keep  turbulent  spirits 
in  check,  and  under  fear  of  his  displeasure,  there  had  not  been 
a  revolution  for  a  long  tune,  which  was,  in  itself,  surprising. 

Chili  undoubtedly  possesses  resources  within  herself  to  become 
one  of  the  most  prosperous  and  flourishing  of  the  independent 
states  of  the  South  American  continent ;  and  could  the  govern- 
ment be  induced  to  take  proper  steps  to  invite  a  more  general 
emigration,  and  make  it  the  interest  of  emigrants  to  settle  per- 
manently in  the  country,  by  their  vigor  and  enterprize,  the 
true  development  of  the  mining  and  agricultural  wealth  might  be 
easily  accomplished,  and  this  communion  of  interests  might  be  the 
means  of  securing  Chili  from  the. doom  which  seems  destined  to 
await  her  sister  republics.  But  notwithstanding  the  rapid  strides 
of  liberality  throughout  the  world,  it  appears  that  the  rulers  of  all 
the  rich  soil  of  America,  washed  by  the  Pacific,  still  maintain  a 
cramped  policy,  actuated  by  religious  intolerance,  and  an  indo- 
lence unknown  elsewhere.  Destitute  of  energy  themselves,  the 
voracious  foreigner  soon  fattens  on  their  resources,  and  in  the 
end,  having  no  ties  to  bind  him  to  a  country  where  the  religion 
precludes  his  forming  closer  domestic  relations,  embarks  his 
easily  acquired  fortune,  to  end  his  days  under  an  enlightened 
government. 

Jt  is  indeed  melancholy  that  such  baneful  influences  do  prevail, 


TRUE  ELEMENTS  OF  HAPPINESS.  37 


when  the  whole  universe  is  subscribing  to  more  liberal  notions, 
but  as  I  do  not  purpose  preaching  a  capucinade  for  or  against  the 
Chilians,  or  take  any  extraordinary  measures  to  discover  vice  or 
follies,  what  might  be  termed  the  pursuit  of  knowledge  under 
difficulties,  and  apprehensive  lest  any  one  should  entertain  ideas 
of  me  widely  at  variance  to  my  real  and  confirmed  opinions,  I 
simply  assure  them,  I  have  long  since  given  over  all  philanthropic 
researches  for  that  which  does  not  affect  my  heart  or  digestion.  I 
once  lived  with  a  Russian,  who  was  blessed  with  a  stomach  and 
organs  durable  as  the  platina  of  his  native  mines,  and  he  ever 
assured  mo,  after  first  finishing  a  flask  of  absinthe,  that  hard  hearts 
and  good  digestions  were  the  only  true  elements  of  happiness  in 
life.  Becoming  a  convert  to  this  doctrine,  I  care  not  for  the  foi- 
bles or  follies  of  mankind,  so  long  as  people  do  not  pick  my  pock- 
ets, or  tread  on  my  toes.  I  take  more  delight  in  seeing  a  child 
skip  the  rope,  a  monkey  at  his  tricks,  or  a  fish  jump  out  of  water, 
than  all  the  palaces  or  churches  on  earth,  and  I  had  much  rather 
chat  an  hour  with  a  pert  dame  de  ccmptoir,  than  dine  with  Sefior 
Bulnes — nor  were  my  spirits  affected  by  learning  the  vast  amount 
of  copper  exported,  or  the  quantity  of  tea  and  tobacco  smuggled  ; 
neither  dispensations  reduced  the  price  of  billiards,  or  induced 
laundry  women  to  lave  linen  a  whit  the  whiter ;  thus  the  truth 
being  apparent  that  I  am  an  indifferent  worldly  person,  I  make 
the  merit  of  my  necessities,  in  striving  to  live  the  space  allotted 
me  in  the  world,  and  not  for  it. 

And  now,  if  I  be  forgiven  for  venting  this  egotistic  digression 
and  harangue,  I  promise  to  make  my  mouth  a  mare  dausvm  in 
future,  for  all  personal  grievances. 


CHAPTER    VI. 

WE  were  aroused  one  morning  af  peep  of  day  by  the  heavy, 
booming  report  of  a  gun  from  the  frigate,  and  on  tearing  open  our 
eyelids,  saw  the  chequered  cornet  flying  at  the  fore,  the  signal  of 
sailing.  Anathematizing  ships  and  seas,  we  shook  fleas  and  dust 
from  our  heels,  and  repaired  forthwith  on  board.  Breakfast  over, 
the  shrill  whistles  of  boatswain  and  mates  called  up  anchor ; 
much  easier  said  than  done,  that  ponderous  instrument  being  loth 
to  leave  his  bed.  And  it  was  not  until  after  a  tremendous 
amount  of  cursing  and  heaving  had  been  expended,  that  it 
deigned  to  be  roused  out  at  all;  even  then,  the  ship  under 
topsails,  with  a  fresh  breeze,  and  forty  fathoms  water,  the  strain 
was  enormous — when  by  a  sudden  surge,  owing  to  a  number  of 
nonsensical  contrivances  of  iron  teeth  biting  the  breathing  cable, 
they  let  go  their  gripe,  and  out  flew  the  chain,  making  the  whole 
vessel  tremble  from  its  quivering  jar  and  whirl.  When  its  fury 
was  a  little  exhausted,  the  brawny  compresses  were  drawn,  and 
the  unruly  gentleman  brought  to  a  stand.  Then  great  appre- 
hensions were  felt  for  the  seamen  in  the  chain  lockers.  They 
were  pulled  out  alive,  with  only  a  broken  leg,  and  a  multitude  of 
painful  contusions.  How  they  escaped  being  torn  into  atoms,  in 
a  confined  box,  six  feet  square,  during  the  frightful  contortions 


ST.  FELIX  AND  AMBROSE. 


and  vibrations  of  the  immense  iron  snake,  was  little  less  than  a 
miracle. 

At  noon  we  were  clear  of  the  harbor,  and  as  the  sun  went 
down,  he  gave  us  a  last  glimpse  of  the  Bell  of  Quillota,  and  his 
tall  companion,  Tupongati.  The  wind  was  fair,  we  murmured 
that  beautiful  saline  sentiment,  "  The  ship  that  goes,  the  wind 
that  blows,  and  lass  that  loves  a  sailor."  I  sighed  adieu  to  Car- 
mencita,  ordered  my  valet  of  the  bedchamber,  Giacomo,  to  ar- 
range my  four  poster  of  a  hammock,  and  then  in  dreams  forgot 
the  past. 

The  fourth  day  out  we  passed  near  to  a  cluster  of  desolate,  un- 
inhabited islands — St.  Ambrose  and  Felix — the  first  about  two 
miles  in  length,  and  rising  abruptly  from  the  ocean,  to  the  height 
of  fifteen  hundred  feet.  Numbers  of  queer-shaped,  pointed,  rocky 
islets,  white  with  guano,  were  grouped  along  the  base  of  the  island, 
and  through  one  was  cut,  by  some  action  of  the  water,  a  well-de- 
fined arch,  open  to  the  sea,  like  a  telescope. 

Pursuing  an  undeviating  track,  with  glorious  seas,  skies  and 
winds,  on  the  last  day  of  the  year  we  crossed  the  equator,  in  a 
longitude  of  110°.  During  this  period  there  were  two  deaths; 
one  a  good  old  man  from  Deutschland,  named  Jerry  Wilson.  On 
being  asked  an  hour  before  he  expired,  how  he  felt — "  First 
rate,"  said  Jerry,  and  no  doubt  he  is  now,  if  not  then.  The 
other  was  a  youth  named  Tilden,  caused  by  a  spasmodic  affection 
of  the  throat,  so  as  to  prevent  swallowing  food,  until  he  abso- 
lutely starved  to  death.  He  made  his  last  plunge  as  the  sun 
went  down.  The  stately  frigate,  careless  of  all,  went  flying  with 
wide-stretched  pinions,  towards  her  destination,  at  a  speed  of 
Jack  the  Giant-killer's  boots.  On  the  20th  of  January,  land 
ho  !  Alta  California  !  For  forty-eight  hours,  we  sailed  lightly 


40  CHAPTER  VI. 


along  the  base  of  a  compact  ridge  of  mountains  that  rose  like 
a  sea  wall,  seamed  into  ten  thousand  furrows,  the  summits  fringed 
with  lofty  forest  trees,  and  not  a  cloud  visible  in  high  heaven, 
then  appeared  a  green,  shelving  point,  of  waving  pines  and  ver- 
dure, terminated  by  a  reef  of  fearful,  black  rocks.  Giving  this 
a  wide  birth,  we  shortly  entered  a  wide,  sweeping  indentation  of 
the  coast,  in  shape  of  a  fish  hook,  with  the  barb  at  the  south- 
ern end,  furled  our  sails,  and  moored  ship  in  the  Bay  of  Monte- 
rey, forty  days  from  Valparaiso. 


CHAPTER    VII. 

BEFORE  resuming  the  thread  of  this  narrative,  it  may  be  as 
well  to  give  a  brief  summary  of  events  that  had  transpired  pre- 
viously to  our  arrival. 

Pending  disturbances  between  the  United  States  and  Mexico, 
when  the  quarrel  had  not  reached  an  open  rupture,  much  excite- 
ment prevailed  in  Upper  California,  through  the  agency  of  a  few 
foreigners,  who  wished  to  revolutionize  the  country.  At  this 
epoch,  Mr.  Fremont,  of  the  U.  S.  Topographical  Engineers,  was 
in  the  heart  of  California,  engaged  upon  scientific  explorations, 
ostensibly  in  relation  to  the  practicability  of  the  best  route  for 
emigration  to  Oregon.  There  is  reason  to  believe,  also,  that  he 
was  instructed  to  feel  the  geographical  pulse  of  the  natives,  as 
well  as  the  mountain  passes.  Be  this  as  it  may,  Mr.  Fremont 
was  encamped  near  Monterey,  with  sixty  followers,  when  Jose 
Castro,  a  Mexican  officer  in  command  of  the  province,  issued  a 
proclamation,  ordering  Fremont  to  leave  the  territory  immedi- 
ately, and  at  the  same  time  threatened  to  drive  every  foreigner 
away  also.  Fremont  and  his  party,  after  holding  Castro's  bom- 
bast in  contempt,  and  his  troops  at  bay,  at  last  began  to  march, 
quite  leisurely,  towards  the  northern  route  for  Oregon :  these  oc- 
currences happened  early  in  the  spring  of  1846.  On  the  13th  of 


42  CHAPTER    VII. 


June  the  first  movement  began,  on  the  river  Sacramento,  near 
Sutter's  Fort,  and  one  of  the  tributaries  to  the  head  waters  of  San 
Francisco.  This  attack  was  composed  of  a  few  lawless  vagabonds, 
who,  carrying  a  banner  of  white,  with  a  red  border  and  grizzly 
bear,  styled  themselves  the  "Bear  Party:"  they  were  of  all 
nations,  though  claiming  citizenship  in  the  United  States.  After 
stealing  a  drove  of  horses,  belonging  to  the  Californians,  their 
numbers  were  increased  by  other  marauding  gentry  to  forty,  when 
moving  rapidly  around  the  northern  shores  of  the  Bay  of  San 
Pablo,  they  surprised  and  captured  the  little  garrison  of  Sonoma, 
under  charge  of  General  Guadalupe  Vallejo.  Then  they  com- 
mitted excesses,  without  the  slightest  recognized  authority,  but 
purely,  it  appears,  from  love  of  a  little  independent  fighting  and 
thieving  on  their  own  private  accounts.  Meanwhile  a  large  naval 
force  had  been  hovering  on  the  Mexican  coast  for  a  year  pre- 
viously, awaiting  the  first  blow  to  be  dealt  on  the  other  side. 
Intelligence  of  the  battles  on  the  Rio  Grande  reached  Mazatlan 
in  June,  and  Commodore  Sloat,  who  was  there  at  the  time,  sailed 
for  Monterey  with  the  squadron,  arrived  in  July,  and  on  the  7th 
hoisted  the  American  flag,  and  took  formal  and  legitimate  pos- 
session of  the  territory.  The  same  course  was  pursued  at  San 
Francisco.  A  week  afterwards  the  frigate  Congress  arrived, 
and  Sloat,  transferring  his  pennant  to  Commodore  Stockton, 
returned  home.  The  new  Commander-in-Chief  then  sailed  for 
San  Pedro,  three  hundred  miles  down  the  coast ;  where  disem- 
barking a  force  of  three  hundred  seamen  and  marines,  he  marched 
towards  the  capital  of  Upper  California,  Pueblo  de  los  Angeles, 
a  town  some  thirty  miles  inland.  On  the  route,  he  found  a  body 
of  five  hundred  men,  under  Pico,  and  Castro,  the  military 
governor  of  the  territory.  The  Californians  broke  up  their 


SKIRMISH  OP  SAN  PASCUAL.  43 


camp  and  dispersed,  before  getting  a  glance  of  the  sailors' 
bayonets.  Stockton  occupied  Los  Angeles,  received  the  sub- 
mission of  the  native  authorities  and  citizens,  placed  a  small 
garrison,  returned  to  San  Pedro,  where  he  re-embarked  for  San 
Francisco  ;  in  the  interim  the  settlements  of  the  valleys  of  Santa 
Clara  and  Sonoma  were  occupied  by  American  forces. 

Fremont  overtaken  on  his  way  through  Oregon  by  Lieut.  Gil- 
lespie,  retraced  his  steps  to  California,  and  learning  the  U.  S.  flag 
had  been  hoisted  in  Monterey,  proceeded  with  a  battalion  of  settlers 
to  the  lower  country,  where  they  were  duly  enrolled.  At  San 
Francisco  news  reached  Stockton  that  the  natives,  six  hundred 
strong,  had  risen  after  his  departure.  The  Savannah  sailed  to  aid 
the  small  garrison,  which,  however,  had  been  obliged  to  capitulate, 
and  Captain  Mervine,  with  three  hundred  men,  was  beaten  by  a 
much  smaller  force. 

The  Commodore  sailed  again  in  the  beginning  of  November, 
and  landed  at  San  Diego  with  about  500  men.  While  at  this 
place,  General  Kearny  with  100  dragoons  arrived  from  a  toilsome 
march  of  nearly  three  months  from  Santa  Fe.  At  the  Pass  of 
San  Pascual,  he  fell  in  with  a  Californian  force  under  Andreas 
Pico,  and  after  a  severe  skirmish,  beat  them  off,  though  with 
great  loss  to  himself — eighteen  of  his  saddles  were  emptied,  in- 
cluding three  officers,  and  as  many  more  badly  wounded.  Form- 
ing a  junction  with  Commodore  Stockton,  they  left  San  Diego  for 
San  Angelos.  After  a  toilsome  march  of  150  miles,  through  a  bro- 
ken and  mountainous  country,  on  the  8th  and  9th  of  January, 
their  passage  was  opposed  by  Governor  Pico  and  Castro,  at  the 
river  San  Gabriel  and  plains  of  La  Mesa,  heading  a  body  of  500 
cavalry  and  four  field  guns ;  after  an  obstinate  resistance,  the 
Californians  were  put  to  flight.  Subsequently,  they  fell  back  upon 


44  CHAPTER  VII. 


Colonel  Fremont,  who,  with  the  volunteers,  were  en  route  to 
unite  with  the  naval  forces  from  San  Siego.  The  Californian 
leaders  again  capitulated  and  signed  an  armistice.  This  was  the 
position  of  affairs  on  our  arrival  at  Monterey — a  few  days  later 
General  Kearny  arrived,  after  his  difficulties  with  Commodore 
Stockton  and  Fremont,  in  relation  to  the  governorship  of  the 
territory. 

The  news  we  received  was  by  no  means  inspiriting,  nor  even 
the  perspective  view  of  matters  becoming  better.  Among  minor 
details,  the  wreck  of  the  schooner  Shark,  at  Columbia  river — the 
drowning  of  a  launch  load  of  sailors  and  two  officers,  in  San  Fran- 
cisco, and  a  host  of  more  trivial  misfortunes.  The  vessels  of  the 
squadron  were  dispersed  up  and  down  the  coast,  necessarily  scat- 
tering men  and  officers  at  different  posts,  for  the  purpose  of  re- 
taining and  subjugating  the  country  ;  but  of  course  rendering  the 
ships  generally  inefficient,  from  the  great  diminution  of  their  com- 
plements. The  natives  had  been  confounded  and  bewildered  by 
speeches  and  proclamations — relays  of  fresh  commanders-in-chief, 
who,  amid  their  own  official  bickerings,  never  ceased  forming  new 
governments,  organizing  armies,  appointing  officers,  civil  and 
military — but  what  served  in  a  great  degree  to  urge  matters  to  a 
crisis,  was  the  banding  together  of  a  few  mongrel  bodies  of  volun- 
teers, who  enhanced  the  pleasure  of  their  otherwise  agreeable 
society,  by  pillaging  the  natives  of  horses,  cattle,  saddles,  house- 
hold utensils,  and  the  like,  in  quite  a  maraudering,  buccaneering, 
independent  way ;  all  of  course  under  the  apparent  legal  sanction 
of  the  United  States'  government,  and  not  a  doubt  but  demanded 
by  the  imperative  necessity  of  their  patriotic  plunderers  them- 
selves. The  result  was  easily  foretold.  These  miserable  Califor- 
nians,  who  at  first  were  not  averse  to  subscribe  to  our  laws,  and 


IJOW  WE  BEHAVED.  45 

to  come  under  the  flag  peacefully  and  properly,  were  soon  screwed 
up  to  such  a  maze  of  fear,  uncertainty,  and  excitement,  as  to  make 
all  future  arrangements  an  affair  of  exceeding  difficulty.  Besides, 
another  important  obstacle  intervened  ;  they  were  to  be  convinced 
that  the  Americans  really  intended  to  hold  permanent  possession 
of  their  country,  and  not  to  make  another  revoke,  as  could  be  rea- 
sonably inferred  from  the  invasion  of  a  few  years  previous,  when 
we  so  quickly  resigned  the  conquest — a  tergiverse  proceeding, 
which  they,  as  well  as  more  enlightened  nations,  were  somewhat  at 
a  loss  to  comprehend.  Thus  judging  from  experience  of  the  past, 
they  had  no  desire  to  make  themselves  obnoxious  to  their  Mexi- 
can rulers,  in  case  a  like  event  should  occur  again ;  and  conse- 
quently, in  the  absence  of  a  sufficiency  of  those  convincing  argu- 
ments done  up  in  military  jackets  and  trousers,  with  muskets  by 
their  sides,  to  overawe  even  a  thin  population  over  so  great  an 
extent  of  territory,  the  natives,  even  those  at  first  most  favor- 
ably disposed,  seized  the  lance,  took  a  decided  stand,  and  with 
the  prospect  of  doing  more  fighting  than  was  originally  con- 
tracted for. 

These  were  the  causes  principally  instrumental  in  bringing 
about  the  last  outbreak.  But  the  Californians,  without  organiza- 
tion, arms,  or  competent  leaders,  though  with  all  the  elements  to 
prolong  the  contest,  seeing  fresh  arrivals  of  ships  and  troops 
appear  on  their  coast,  were  induced  to  throw  by  the  lance  for  the 
lasso,  and  agree  to  an  honorable  capitulation.  Milder  influences 
prevailed ;  steps  were  taken  to  tranquilize  people's  minds  by  a 
spirit  of  conciliation  dictated  by  good  sense.  Useless  and  annoy- 
ing restrictions  were  abolished,  property  of  every  description  was 
returned  or  liberally  paid  for,  prisoners  discharged,  paroles  annul- 
led, the  blue  jackets,  playing  soldiers  on  shore,  were  ordered  to 


46  CHAPTER  VII. 

their  respective  ships,  and  the  volunteers  disbanded.  All  this 
tended  in  a  great  measure  to  reassure  the  natives  of  an  amicable 
endeavor  on  our  part  to  make  the  new  yoke  rest  as  lightly  as  pos- 
sible on  their  shoulders. 


CHAPTER    VIII. 

THE  rain  came  down  in  a  steady  drizzle,  as  we  anchored  in 
our  new  haven,  but  as  the  falling  water  thinned,  and  rolled  par- 
tially along  the  land,  we  discerned  an  endless  succession  of  green 
gentle  slopes  and  valleys,  with  heights  of  just  a  medium  be- 
tween hills  and  mountains,  rising  gradually  from  the  shores  of  the 
bay,  clothed  and  crowned  with  magnificent  vegetation.  We  did 
not  call  to  mind  any  land  naturally  so  picturesque  and  beautiful. 
Afterwards,  when  our  excursions  had  extended  for  many  leagues 
in  all  directions,  we  were  ever  amazed  to  perceive  on  every  side 
the  loveliness  of  plain,  hill,  and  valley  still  the  same.  Indeed, 
for  leagues  in  some  directions  it  presented  the  appearance  of 
extensive  artificial  parks,  decked  and  brilliant  with  a  carpeting  of 
rich  grasses  and  flowers,  shaded  by  noble  clusters  of  wide-spread- 
ing oaks,  all  entirely  free  from  undergrowth. 

The  town  of  Monterey,  if  it  could  be  dignified  by  the  title, 
we  found  a  mean,  irregular  collection  of  mud  huts,  and  long,  low, 
adobie  dwellings,  strewn  promiscuously  over  an  easy  slope,  down 
to  the  water's  edge.  The  most  conspicuous  was  the  duana — 
Custom  House — a  spacious  frame  building  near  the  landing,  which 
unquestionably  had  in  times  past  been  the  means  of  yielding  im- 
mense revenues  to  the  Mexican  exchequer,  but  now  its  roomy 
store-houses  were  empty  and  silent.  Neither  men  nor  merchan 


48  CHAPTER  VIII. 

dise  disturbed  its  quiet  precincts.  Notwithstanding  the  rain, 
numbers  of  us  resolved  to  dare  the  moisture,  and  I,  for  one, 
would  wade  about  on  land,  up  to  my  neck  in  water,  at  any  time 
to  get  quit  of  a  ship  after  forty  days  aquatic  recreation ;  but  here 
there  was  no  resisting  the  gratefully  green  appearance  of  the 
shores  around  us :  we  were  soon  stowed  Jn  a  boat — the  oars  dip- 
ped smart  and  strong  hi  the  water,  and  we  went  merrily  towards 
the  land.  Indeed  I  have  invariably  observed  that  men-of-war's 
men  are  wont  to  use  their  arms  with  much  vigor,  on  first  pulling 
on  shore  in  a  strange  port ;  a  physical  characteristic  which  I  am 
led  to  attribute  to  a  desire  on  their  part  to  test  the  virtues  of  any 
liquid  compounds  to  be  met  with  in  the  abodes  of  hospitable 
publicans.  The  anchorage  was  barely  half  a  mile  from  the  shore, 
and  in  a  few  minutes  we  disembarked  at  a  little  pier,  that  only 
partially  served  to  check  the  rolling  swell  from  seaward ;  but 
what's  a  wet  foot  in  a  fit  of  enthusiasm,  or  a  heavy  shower  !  No- 
thing, certainly,  so  we  scrambled  up  the  slimy  steps,  and  while 
on  the  point  of  giving  a  yell  of  delight,  to  announce  our  arrival  in 
California,  my  pedal  extremities  flew  upwards  and  down  I  sank, 
making  a  full  length  intaglio  in  the  yielding  mud— this  was  my 
first  impression,  but  after  getting  decently  scraped  by  Jack's 
knives,  I  became  less  excitable,  and  took  intense  delight  during 
the  course  of  the  afternoon,  in  beholding  my  companions  going 
through  precisely  the  same  performances.  By  cautious  naviga- 
tion we  reached  the  main  street,  then  our  progress  was  dread- 
fully slow  and  laborious.  The  mud — a  sticky,  red  pigment,  lay 
six  good  inches  on  the  dryest  level,  and  at  every  step  our  feet 
were  disengaged  ,by  a  powerful  jerk,  and  a  deep,  gutteral  noise 
from  the  slippy  holes ;  occasionally,  too,  we  were  forced  to 
climb  ungainly  barricades  of  timber,  with  here  and  there  a  piece 


HOW  MONTEREY  LOOKED.  49 

of  ordnance  gazing  ferociously  out  into  the  surrounding  country. 
Although  a  casual  observer  might  naturally  have  supposed  that 
the  mud  would  have  offered  a  sufficient  barrier  to  all  the  armies 
ever  raised,  still,  as  trouble  had  been  brewing,  and  most  of  the 
garrison  withdrawn  for  an  expedition  into  the  interior,  these  pre- 
cautions were  quite  an  imposing  display,  which  was,  no  doubt,  all 
intended.  At  last,  by  dint  of  perseverance,  we  attained  a  firm, 
foothold  in  the  barracks,  and  then  had  breath  and  leisure  to  look 
around. 

Monterey,  before  the  war,  contained  about  five  hundred 
people,  but  on  our  advent  there  was  scarcely  a  native  to  be 
seen  :  all  the  men  had  gone  to  join  their  belligerent  friends  in  the 
southern  provinces,  leaving  their  property  and  dwellings  to  be 
guarded  by  their  wives  and  dogs ;  even  their  ladies  bore  us  no 
good  will,  and  our  salutations  were  returned  by  a  surly  adios, 
extorted  from  closed  teeth  and  scowling  faces.  The  dogs  were 
more  civil,  and  even  when  showing  their  fangs,  were  sagacious 
enough  to  keep  beyond  the  chastening  reach  of  Yankee  arms. 
There  were  a  goodly  number  of  sentinels  on  the  alert,  prowl- 
ing about,  with  heavy  knives  in  their  girdles,  and  the  locks 
of  their  rifles  carefully  sheltered  from  the  rain ;  and  at  night  it 
became  a  matter  of  some  bodily  danger  for  an  indifferent  person 
to  come  suddenly  in  view  of  one  of  these  vigilant  gentlemen,  for 
with  but  a  tolerable  ear  for  music  he  might  detect  the  sharp 
click  of  a  rifle,  and  the  hoarse  caution  of  "  Look  out,  thar, 
stranger ;"  when  if  the  individual  addressed  did  not  speedily 
shout  his'  name  and  calling,  he  stood  the  merest  chance  of  having 
another  eyelet-hole  drilled  through  his  skull. 

All  this  at  the  first  rapid  glance  gave  us  no  very  bright  anticipa- 
tions ;  everything  looked  triste  and  cheerless.  Upon  inquiring,  too 


60  CHAPTER  VIII. 


we  were  shocked  to  learn  there  was  nothing  eatable  to  be  had,  nor 
what  was  yet  more  melancholy,  naught  drinkable  nor  smokable  : 
everybody  was  so  much  occupied  in  making  war,  as  to  have 
entirely  lost  sight  of  their  appetites.  We  began  to  indulge  the 
faintest  suspicions  that  somehow  or  other  we  had  gotten  into  the 
wrong  place,  and  that  California  was  not  so  charming  a  spot  as 
we  had  been  led  to  believe ;  however,  there  was  no  appeal,  and 
fortunately  for  our  health  and  spirits,  as  we  were  leaning  listlessly 
over  the  piazza  of  the  barracks,  staring  might  and  main  at  the 
little  church  in  the  distance,  we  beheld  a  body  of  horsemen 
coming  slowly  over  the  verdant  plains,  and  soon  after  they  drew 
bridles,  and  dismounted  before  us.  The  cavallada  of  spare 
horses  were  driven  into  the  corral  near  by,  and  we  were 
presented  in  due  form  to  the  riders.  It  was  the  most  im- 
pressive little  band  I  ever  beheld ;  they  numbered  sixty,  and, 
without  exception,  had  gaunt  bony  frames  like  steel,  dressed  in 
skins,  with  heavy  beards  and  unshorn  faces,  with  each  man  his 
solid  American  rifle,  and  huge  knife  by  the  hip.  With  all  their 
wildness  and  ferocious  appearance  they  had  quite  simple  man- 
ners, and  were  perfectly  frank  and  respectful  in  bearing.  Their 
language  and  phraseology  were  certainly  difficult  for  a  stranger  to 
comprehend,  for  many  of  them  had  passed  the  greater  portion  of 
their  lives  as  trappers  and  hunters  among  the  Rocky  Mountains  ; 
but  there  was  an  air  of  indomitable  courage  hovering  about  them, 
with  powers  to  endure  any  amount  of  toil  or  privation — men  who 
wouldn't  stick  at  scalping  an  Indian  or  a  dinner  of  mule  meat ; — 
and  you  felt  assured  in  regarding  them,  that  with  a  score  of  such 
staunch  fellows  at  your  side  you  would  sleep  soundly,  even 
though  the  forests  were  alive  with  an  an  atmosphere  of  Camanche 
yells.  They  were  the  woodsmen  of  our  far  west,  who  on  hearing 


THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAIN  MEN.  51 


of  the  disturbances  in  California  enrolled  themselves  for  service 
in  the  Volunteer  Battalion — more-  byway  of  recreation,  I  imagine, 
than  for  glory  or  patriotism.  In  truth,  the  natives  had  good 
reason  to  regard  them  with  terror. 

We  soon  became  quite  sociable,  and  after  a  hearty  supper  of 
fried  beef  and  biscuit,  by  some  miraculous  dispensation  a  five- 
gallon  keg  of  whiskey  was  uncorked,  and,  after  a  thirty  days' 
thirst,  our  new-found  friends  slaked  away  unremittingly.  Many 
were  the  marvellous  adventures  narrated  of  huntings,  fightings, 
freezings,  snowings,  and  starvations;  and  one  stalwart  bronzed 
trapper  beside  me,  finding  an  attentive  listener,  began, — "  The  last 
time,  Captin,  I  cleared  the  Oregon  trail,  the  Ingens  fowt  us  arnazin' 
hard.  Pete,"  said  he,  addressing  a  friend  smoking  a  clay  pipe 
by  the  fire,  with  a  half  pint  of  corn-juice  in  his  hand,  which 
served  to  moisten  his  own  clay  at  intervals  between  every 
puff, — "  Pete,  do  you  notice  how  I  dropped  the  red  skin  who  pit 
the  poisoned  arrer  in  my  moccasin  !  Snakes,  Captin,  the  var- 
mints lay  thick  as  leaves  behind  the  rocks ;  and  bless  ye,  the 
miuit  I  let  fall  old  Ginger  from  my  jaw,  up  they  springs,  and 
lets  fly  their  flint-headed  arrers  in  amongst  us,  and  one  on  'em 
wiped  me  right  through  the  leg.  I  tell  yer  what  it  is,  hoss,  I 
riled,  I  did,  though  we'd  had  tolerable  luck  in  the  forenoon — for 
1  dropped  two  and  a  squaw  and  Pete  got  his  good  six — barrin' 
that  the  darned  villians  had  hamstrung  our  mule,  and  we  were 
bound  to  see  the  thing  out.  Well,  Captin,  as  I  tell  ye,  I  'm  not 
weak  in  the  jints,  but  it 's  no  joke  to  hold  the  heft  of  twenty- 
three  pounds  on  a  sight  for  above  ten  minits  on  a  stretch ;  so 
Pete  and  me  scrouched  down,  made  a  little  smoke  with  some 
sticks,  and  then  we  moved  off  a  few  rods,  whar  we  got  a  clar 
peep  ;  for  better  than  an  hour  we  seed  nothin',  but  on  a  suddin  I 


52  CHAPTER    VIII. 


seed  the  chap — I  know'd  him  by  his  paintin' — that  driv  the  arrer 
in  my  hide  ;  he  was  peerin'  around  quite  bold,  thinkin'  we'd 
vamosed  ;  I  jist  fetched  old  Ginger  up  and  drawed  a  bee  line  on 
his  cratch,  and,  stranger,  I  giv  him  sich  a  winch  in  the  stomach 
that  he  dropped  straight  into  his  tracks  ;  he  did  !  in  five  jumps 
I  riz  his  har,  and  Pete  and  me  warn't  troubled  agin  for  a  week." 
With  such  pleasant  converse  we  beguiled  the  tune  until  the  night 
was  somewhat  advanced  ;  when,  finding  a  vacant  corner  near  the 
blazing  fire,  with  a  saddle  for  pillow,  I  sank  into  profound  slum- 
ber, and  never  awoke  to  consciousness  until  the  band  was  again 
astir  at  sunrise. 


CHAPTER    IX. 

THE  time  passed  rapidly  away.  The  rainy  season  had  nearly 
ended, — we  were  only  favored  with  occasional  showers,  and  by 
the  latter  part  of  February,  the  early  spring  had  burst  forth,  and 
nothing  could  exceed  the  loveliness  of  the  rich,  verdant  landscape 
around  us.  After  the  treaty  and  capitulation  had  been  signed  by 
the  Picos  at  Los  Angeles,  their  partizans  dispersed,  and  all  who 
resided  in  Monterey  shortly  returned  to  their  homes.  Every  day 
brought  an  addition  to  the  place — grd&t  ox-cart  caravans  with 
hide  bodies,  and  unwieldy  wheels  of  hewn  timber,  came  screaming 
slowly  along  the  roads,  filled  with  women  and  children,  who  had 
sought  refuge  in  some  secure  retreat  in  the  country.  Cattle  soon 
were  seen  grazing  about  the  hills.  The  town  itself  began  to  look 
alive — doors  were  unlocked  and  windows  thrown  open — a  cafe 
and  billiards  emerged — pulperias,  with  shelves  filled  withagua- 
diente  appeared  en  every  corner — the  barricades  were  torn 
down — guns  removed — and  the  Californians  themselves  rode 
blithely  by,  with  heavy,  jingling  spurs,  and  smiling  faces — the 
women,  too,  flashed  their  bright  eyes  less  angrily  upon  their  inva- 
ders— accepted  pleasant  compliments  without  a  sneer,  and  even 
Dofia  Angustia  Ximenes,  who  took  a  solemn  oath  upon  her  missal 
a  few  months  before,  never  to  dance  again,  until  she  could 
wear  a  necklace  of  Yankee  ears,  relented  too,  and  not  only 


54  CHAPTER  IX. 


swept  gracefully  through  waltz  and  contra  dan§a,  but  when  after- 
wards one  of  our  young  officers  became  ill  with  fever,  she  had  him 
carried  from  the  tent  to  her  dwelling,  watched  him  with  all  a 
woman's  care  and  tenderness,  as  much  as  though  she  had  been 
the  mother  that  bore  him,  until  he  was  carried  to  his  last  home. 
Yes,  bella  Sefiora,  you  may  swear  the  same  wicked  oaths  forever, 
and  still  be  forgiven  by  all  those  who  witnessed  your  disinterested 
devotion  to  poor  Minor. 

Gradually  these  good  people  became  aware  that  the  Yankees 
were  not  such  a  vile  pack  of  demouios  as  they  first  believed,  and 
thus  whenever  guitars  were  tinkling  at  the  fandangos,  or  meals 
laid  upon  the  board,  we  were  kindly  welcomed,  with  the  privi- 
lege of  making  as  much  love,  and  devouring  as  many  frijoles  as 
may  have  been  polite  or  palatable.  Upon  visiting  the  residences 
of  the  townspeople,  true  to  the'  old  Spanish  character  there  was 
no  attempt  made  in  show  or  ostentation — that  is  always  reserved 
for  the  street  or  alemeda,  but  a  stranger  is  received  with  cordial- 
ity, and  a  certain  ease  and  propriety  to  which  they  seem  to  the 
"  manner  born."  With  the  denizens  of  Monterey,  even  the 
wealthiest,  cleanliness  was  an  acquirement  very  little  appreciated 
or  practised,  and  I  should  presume  the  commodity  of  soap  to  be 
an  article  "  more  honored  in  the  breach  than  the  observance." 
For  being  given  to  cold  water  as  a  principle  of  lady-like  existence 
I  was  something  shocked  on  one  occasion,  to  find  a  nice  little  Se- 
fiorita,  to  whom  I  had  been  playing  the  agreeable  the  night  pre- 
vious, with  a  chemisette  of  a  chocolate  hue  peeping  through  a  slit 
in  her  sleeve  ;  her  soft,  dimpled  hands,  too,  made  me  speculate 
mentally  upon  the  appearance  of  her  little  feet,  and  I  forthwith 
resolved,  in  the  event  of  becoming  so  deeply  infatuated  as  to  in- 


EVENING  VISIT.  55 

duce  her  papa  to  permit  a  change  of  estate,  to  exact  a  change  of 
raiment  in  the  marriage  contract. 

The  occasion  of  inspecting  the  arcana  of  this  young  woman's 
vestments  was  during  a  visit  to  her  portly  mamina,  and  I  may  as 
well,  by  way  of  example,  describe  my  reception.  The  dwelling 
was  a  low,  one  story  pile  of  adobies,  retaining  the  color  of  the  pri- 
mitive mud,  and  forming  a  large  paralellogram  ;  it  enclosed  a  huge 
pen,  or  corral,  for  cattle,  over  which  guard  was  carefully  mounted 
by  crowds  of  gallinazos.  There  were  divers  collections  of  Indian 
families  coiled  and  huddled  about  beneath  the  porticoes  and  door- 
ways, each  member  thereof  rejoicing  in  great  masses  of  wiry 
shocks  of  hair,  quite  coarse  enough  to  weave  into  bird  cages  on  an 
emergency  ;  there  were  some  bee-hive  shaped  ovens  also,  from 
the  apertures  of  which  I  remarked  a  number  of  filthy  individuals 
immersed  neck  deep,  taking,  no  doubt,  balmy  slumber,  with  the 
rain  doing  what  they  never  had  the  energy  to  perform  them- 
selves— washing  their  faces.  This  much  for  externals — men  and 
beasts  included,  merely  premising  that  the  whole  affair  was  situ- 
ated in  a  quiet  detachment  by  itself,  a  few  hundred  yards  in  rear 
of  the  village.  My  guide,  though  a  good  pilot,  and  retaining  a 
clear  perception  of  the  road,  was  unable  to  convoy  me  safely  to 
the  house,  without  getting  stalled  several  times  in  the  mire ; 
however,  I  reached  terra  firma,  thankful  to  have  escaped  with  my 
boots  overflowing  with  mud,  and  then  we  marched  boldly  into  the 
domicile.  We  entered  a  large,  white-washed  sala,  when,  after 
clapping  hands,  a  concourse  of  small  children  approached  with  a 
lighted  tallow  link,  and  in  reply  to  our  inquiries,  without  further 
ceremony,  ushered  us  by  another  apartment  into  the  presence 
of  the  mistress  of  the  mansion.  She  was  sitting  a  la  grand 
Turque,  on  the  chief  ornamental  structure  that  graced  the  cham- 


56  CHAPTER  IX. 


ber — namely,  the  bed,  upon  which  were  sportively  engaged  three 
diminutive  brats,  with  a  mouse-trap — paper  cigarritos — dirty  feet, 
and  other  juvenile  and  diverting  toys.  The  Dona  herself  was 
swallowing  and  puffing  clouds  of  smoke  alternately — but  I  must 
paint  her  as  she  sat,  through  the  haze.  "  Juana,"  said  she,  call- 
ing to  a  short,  squat  Indian  girl,  "  lumbredta  por  el  Senor," — a 
light  for  the  gentleman — and  in  a  moment  I  was  likewise  pouring 
forth  volumes  of  smoke.  She  wore  her  hair,  which  was  black  and 
glossy,  in  natural  folds  straight  down  the  neck  and  shoulders, 
dark  complexion,  lighted  by  deep,  black,  intelligent  eyes,  well- 
shaped  features,  and  brilliant,  white  teeth.  I  saw  but  little  of  her 
figure,  as  she  was  almost  entirely  enveloped  in  shawls  and  bed 
clothes  ;  the  arms,  however,  were  visible,  very  large,  round  and 
symmetrical,  which  of  themselves  induced  me  to  resign  all  preten- 
sions to  becoming  her  son-in-law.  She  excused  herself  on  the 
plea  of  indisposition  for  not  rising,  and  it  being  one  I  surmised  she 
was  a  martyr  to  every  year  or  so,  I  very  readily  coincided  in 
opinion,  but  in  truth  I  found  the  Seflora  Mariqueta  sensible, 
good-humored,  and  what  was  far  more  notable,  the  mother  of 
fourteen  male  and  five  female  children — making  nineteen  the  sum 
of  boys  and  girls  total,  as  she  informed  me  herself,  without  putting 
me  to  the  trouble  of  counting  the  brood  ;  and  yet  she  numbered 
but  seven  and  thirty  years,  in  the  very  prime  of  life,  with  the 
appearance  of  being  again  able  to  perform  equally  astonishing  ex- 
ploits for  the  future.  She  named  many  of  her  friends  and  relatives 
who  had  done  wonders,  but  none  who  had  surpassed  her  in  these 
infantile  races.  In  Spain  she  would  receive  a  pension,  be  ex- 
empted from  taxes  and  the  militia.  On  being  told  this  she 
laughed  heartily,  and  gave  her  full  assent  to  any  schemes  under- 
taken in  California  for  the  amelioration  of  the  sex.  Her  husband, 


A  NUMEROUS  FAMILY.  57 

who  chanced  to  be  absent,  was  a  foreigner,  but  the  whole  family 
were  highly  respectable,  and  universally  esteemed  by  their  fellow 
citizens.  After  an  hour's  pleasant  chat  we  took  leave,  with  the 
promise  on  my  part  of  teaching  the  eldest  daughter,  Teresa,  the 
Polka,  for  which  I  needed  no  incentive,  as  she  was  extremely 
graceful  and  pretty. 


CHAPTER    X. 

ONE  morning,  at  break  of  day,  I  left  Monterey  for  a  tramp  among 
the  hills  ;  the  natives  by  this  time  had  become  pacifically  disposed, 
and  there  were  no  serious  apprehensions  of  getting  a  hide  necklace 
thrown  over  one's  head,  hi  shape  of  the  unerring  lasso,  if  per- 
chance a  Yankee  strayed  too  far  from  his  quarters.  The  war  was 
virtually  ended  in  California :  there  was  no  further  hope  for 
gold  chains  or  wooden  legs ;  the  glory  had  been  reaped  by  the 
first  comers ;  and  I  made  the  time  and  shot  fly  together,  ranging 
about  the  suburbs.  With  a  fowling-piece  on  my  arm,  and  a 
carbine  slung  to  the  back  of  an  attendant,  we  pursued  a  tortuous 
path,  through  a  gap  in  the  hills,  to  the  southward,  and  after  a 
four  or  five  miles'  walk  we  found  ourselves  at  the  Mission  of 
Carmelo.  It  is  within  a  mile  of  the  sea,  protected  by  a  neck  of 
land,  close  to  a  rapid  clear  stream  of  the  same  name.  A  quaint 
old  church,  falling  to  decay,  with  crumbling  tower  and  belfry, 
broken  roofs,  and  long  lines  of  mud-built  dwellings,  all  in  ruins, 
is  what  remains  of  a  once  flourishing  and  wealthy  settlement. 
It  still  presents  a  picturesque  appearance,  standing  on  a  little 
rise,  above  a  broad  fertile  plain  of  many  acres,  adjacent  to  the 
banks  of  the  river,  and  at  the  base  a  large  orchard  of  fruits  and 
flowers.  Following  up  the  stream  for  some  leagues,  through  tha 
game  rich  level,  crossing  and  re-crossing  the  pure  running  water, 


A  TRAMP  IN  THE  MOUNTAINS. 


with  noble  salmon  flashing  their  silver  sides  at  every  fathom,  we 
soon  bagged  as  much  game  as  we  could  stagger  under :  wild 
ducks,  quail,  partridges,  hares  of  a  very  large  size,  and  rabbits. 
Not  contented  with  this  we  left  the  valley,  and  struck  through  a 
narrow  gorge  of  the  adjoining  hills.  Here  I  caught  a  glimpse  of 
a  trio  of  coyotes  and  instantly  blazed  away  with  the  carbine, 
which  brought  one  of  them  tumbling  down  the  steep,  but  much 
to  my  surprise  his  two  friends  followed,  and  actually  bolstered  up 
their  wounded  comrade,  and  assisted  him  out  of  sight  before  I 
could  send  another  bullet.  They  were  as  large  as  wolves,  of  a 
light  yellowish  brown,  with  long  sharp  snouts,  bushy  hanging 
tails,  and  a  gait  like  the  trot  of  a  dog.  They  are  very  disagree- 
able customers  to  sheep  and  other  small  fry,  and,  as  I  discovered 
subsequently,  that  when  badly  wounded,  they  have  a  very 
unpleasant  way  with  their  teeth.  Continuing  onward,  and  hardly 
recovered  from  my  astonishment  at  the  rencounter  with  the 
coyotes,  when  up  bounded,  within  thirty  yards,  three  large 
deer,  and  with  the  coolest  impudence  stared  me  full  in  the  face. 
Maldito  !  the  carbine  was  again  in  the  hands  of  my  companion, 
some  distance  behind,  but  I  could  not  resist  the  temptation  of 
giving  a  strapping  buck  a  hail-storm  of  fine  shot  between  the 
eyes.  Even  this  only  made  the  party  a  little  frisky,  kick  up 
their  heels,  toss  their  heads,  and  wag  their  short  tails.  I  was  in 
hopes  the  carbine  would  reach  me  in  time  to  send  the  lead  more 
in  a  lump,  but  in  another  moment  they  sprang  off  like  the  wind, 
and  the  next  seen  of  them  was  in  company  with  a  large  herd,  a 
mile  away,  with  their  graceful  bodies  and  limbs  standing  in  clear 
relief  against  the  blue  sky.  I  had  not  a  doubt  but  that  they  were 
relating  my  chagrin  as  a  capital  buckish  joke.  By  this  time  we 
had  penetrated  so  far  from  ravine  to  hill  as  to  have  completely 


60  CHAPTER  X. 

lost  our  bearings,  and  becoming  quite  bewildered,  I  began  to 
entertain  serious  ideas  of  seeking  some  place  of  shelter  for  the 
night.  My  attendant,  too,  had  fallen  down  two  or  three  times 
from  exhaustion,  the  sun  was  rapidly  declining,  and  I  was  not  at 
all  pleased  with  the  wild  appearance  of  the  hills  and  valleys  that 
encircled  us.  Throwing  away  the  greater  part  of  our  game,  we 
made  a  toilsome  effort,  and  reached  the  crest  of  an  adjacent 
height,  in  hopes  of.  getting  a  glimpse  of  the  plains  of  Carmelo. 
Again  we  were  disappointed  ;  and  while  on  the  point  of  making 
the  best  of  our  bargain,  by  risking  a  hug  from  grizzly  bears  or 
panthers  during  the  night,  I  espied  a  horseman  slowly  winding 
his  way  beneath  us  in  the  gorge.  By  discharging  a  barrel  of  my 
piece,  and  continued  shouts,  we  soon  attracted  attention,  and 
thus  being  encouraged  by  the  sight  of  a  fellow-being,  we  sprang 
briskly  down  the  steep.  However,  our  ally  evinced  no  violent 
affection  for  us,  and  in  a  trice  wheeled  his  horse  up  the  opposite 
face  of  the  acclivity ;  there  he  paused,  well  out  of  gun-shot,  and 
presently  I  heard  a  shrill  voice  crying,  "  Que  es  lo  que  quiere  ?  " 
"  We  are  lost,"  I  replied ;  "  will  you  assist  us  ? "  With  many 
a  wary  glance  and  movement^  he  at  last  came  frankly  towards 
us,  and  I  then  discovered  an  intelligent  little  fellow,  about  ten 
years  of  age,  astride  a  powerful  animal,  which  he  guided  by 
a  single  thong  of  hide.  Slipping  from  the  saddle,  and  letting 
his  lasso  fall  on  the  ground,  he  doffed  his  broad  glazed  som- 
brero, and  stood  awaiting  my  wishes.  On  learning  our  situation 
he  gladly  volunteered  to  guide  us,  and  in  return  told  me  that 
ho  had  been  all  day  seeking  stray  cattle  among  the  mountains, 
that  the  bears  were  very  numerous,  and  that  we  had  described  a 
wide  circuit  around  the  hills,  and  were  within  a,  short  league  of 
tho  Mission.  This  last  was  highly  gratifying  information,  and 


THE  CARMELO  MISSION.  61 


mounting  my  worn-out  attendant  on  the  horse,  our  little  guide 
took  the  bridle,  and  led  the  way  towards  the  valley.  It  was 
quite  dark  on  reaching  the  stream,  and  I  felt  thoroughly  knocked 
up,  but  a  few  minutes  bathe  in  the  chill  water  gave  me  new  life, 
and  shortly  after  we  were  housed  in  the  great  hall  of  the  Mission. 
It  chanced  to  be  Sunday  evening,  moreover,  during  carnival,  and 
there  were  preparations  for  a  more  brilliant  fandango  than  the 
usual  weekly  affair  generally  produced.  A  few  horses  were 
picketted  about  the  great  patio,  and  two  or  three  ox-carts 
with  hide  bodies  were  serving  for  boudoirs  to  damsels,  who  had 
come  from  afar  to  mingle  in  the  ball.  But  the  company  had  not 
yet  assembled  in '  the  old  hall,  that  had  once  served  the  good 
frayles  for  a  refectory ;  and  on  entering  I  was  kindly  wel- 
comed by  the  Patrona  Margarita,  and  her  handsome  coquettish 
daughter,  Domatilda,  who  were  the  liege  and  lady  hostesses  of 
the  Carmelo  Mission.  With  her  own  hands  the  jolly  madre 
soon  prepared  me  an  olla  podrida  of  tomatoes,  peppers,  and 
the  remains  in  my  game  bag.  Then  her  laughing  nymph  patted 
me  some  tortillas ;  and  after  eating  ravenously,  and  draining  a 
cup  of  aguadiente,  the  hospitable  old  lady  tumbled  me  into 
her  own  spacious  couch,  which  stood  in  an  angle  of  the  hall,  and 
giving  me  a  hearty  slap  on  the  back,  shouted,  "  Duerma  listed 
lien  hijo  mio  hasta  media  nochc," — Sleep  like  a  top  until 
midnight.  I  needed  no  second  bidding,  and  in  a  moment  was 
buried  in  deep  sleep.  Unconscious  of  fleeting  hours,  I  was  at 
length  restored  to  life,  but  in  the  most  disordered  frame  of  mind  ; 
suffering  under  a  most  complicated  attack  of  nightmare,  of  which 
bear-hugs,  murders,  manacles  and  music  present  but  a  slight 
idea  of  my  agony ;  and  indeed,  when  after  pinching  myself,  and 
tearing  my  eyelids  fairly  open,  I  had  still  great  difficulty  in 


62  CHAPTER  X. 


recalling  my  erring  faculties.  I  found  my  own  individual  person 
deluged  with  a  swarm  of  babies,  who  were  lying  athwart  ships, 
and  amid  ships,  fore  and  aft,  heads  and  toes,  every  way ;  and  one 
interesting  infant,  just  teething,  was  sucking  vigorously  away  on 
the  left  lobe  of  my  ear,  while  another  lovingly  entwined  its  little 
fingers  in  my  whiskers.  Nor  was  this  half  the  bodily  miseries  I 
had  so  innocently  endured.  A  gay  youth,  with  a  dripping  link, 
nicely  balanced  against  my  boots,  was  sitting  on  my  legs,  with  a 
level  space  on  the  bed  before  him,  intently  playing  monte,  to  the 
great  detriment  of  the  purses  of  his  audience.  On  glancing 
around,  I  beheld  the  lofty  apartment  lighted  by  long  tallow 
candles  melted  against  the  walls,,  whose  smoke  clung  in  dense 
clouds  around  the  beams  of  the  lofty  hall ;  the  floor  was  nearly 
filled,  at  the  lower  end,  with  groups  of  swarthy  Indians  and 
paisanos,  sipping  aguadiente,  or  indulging  in  the  same  exciting 
amusement  as  the  gentleman  sitting  on  my  feet.  On  either 
side  were  double  rows  of  men  and  women,  moving  in  the  most 
bewildering  mazes  of  the  contra  danza :  turning  and  twisting, 
twining  and  whirling  with  unceasing  rapidity,  keeping  time  to 
most  inspiriting  music,  of  harps  and  guitars;  whilst  ever  and 
anon,  some  delighted  youth  would  elevate  his  voice,  in  a  shout  of 
ectasy,  at  the  success  of  some  bright-eyed  sefiorita  in  the  dance : 
Ay,  mi  alma  I  Toma  la  bolsa  !  Caramba  ! — Go  it,  my  beauty ! 
Take  my  purse !  Beautiful ! — It  took  me  but  an  instant  to  appre- 
ciate all  this  ;  and  then,  being  fully  roused  to  my  wrongs,  I  gave 
one  vigorous  spring,  which  sent  the  monte,  man,  candle,  cards, 
and  coppers,  flying  against  the  wall,  and  bounding  to  my  feet  I 
made  a  dash  at  the  Patrona,  drank  all  the  licores  on  the  tray,  and 
seizing  her  around  the  waist,  away  we  spun  through  the  fandango. 
Long  before  rosy  morn  I  had  become  as  merry  and  delighted  as 


FANDANGO  AT  CARMELO. 


the  rest  of  the  company.  I  bought  a  dirty  pack  of  cards  for  a 
rial,  and  opened  a  monte  bank,  for  coppers  and  paper  cigars,  and 
although  a  select  party  of  Indios  did  their  best  to  impose  upon  my 
youth  and  inexperience,  yet  on  receiving  their  treasure  of 
centavos,  winning  a  hatful  of  cigarritos,  and  only  paying  half 
a  one  for  importas,  I  comprehended  by  their  gutteral  excla- 
mations that  their  compadre  was  not  so  verdant  a  person  as 
they  at  first  imagined.  Thus  I  left  them  to  their  reflections, 
and  busied  myself  swearing  love,  and  sipping  dukes  with  the 
brunettas  ;  vowing  friendship  to  the  men  ;  drinking  strong  waters ; 
promising  to  redress  all  grievances,  to  pay  all  claims  out  of  my 
own  pocket  for  the  government ;  and  ended  by  repudiating  the 
Yankees,  and  swearing  myself  a  full-blooded  Califoruian.  How- 
ever, these  ebullitions  were  partially  attributable  to  the  heated 
rooms,  and  licores  of  Madre  Mariqueta ;  but  when  the  golden 
sun  came  streaming  into  the  house,  \}jp  links  had  formed  heavy 
stalactites  against  the  walls ;  and  notwithstanding  the  earnest 
solicitations  of  my  new  made  friends,  I  jumped  up  behind  my 
little  guide  of  the  evening  previous,  and  galloped  off  towards 
Monterey. 

Thus  passed  my  first  visit  to  Carmelo,  and  scarcely  a  week 
went  by  that  I  did  not  enjoy  a  supper  of  one  of  the  Patrona's 
capital  ollas,  with  may  be  a  little  wholesome  exercise  to  digest  it, 
at  the  evening  fandango — it  was  the  only  place  where  could  be 
seen  a  dash  of  native  life,  but  even  this  lost  its  charm.  During 
carnival,  I  made  my  homage  to  all  who  were  docile  enough,  and  I 
must  add  clean  enough  to  receive  it ;  but  whether  owing  to  a 
want  of  tact,  fervor,  or  devotion,  I  failed  to  keep  the  mercury  up 
to  boiling  point,  and  after  presenting  one  slim  little  dona  with  a 
two  shilling  brooch  of  great  magnitude  and  brilliancy — crushing 


64  CHAPTER  X. 


dozens  of  variegated  eggs  on  the  shining  tresses  of  others,  and 
nearly  driving  a  horse  distracted  through  the  agency  of  enor- 
mous spurs,  in  hopes  to  show  my  skill  and  win  a  smile  from 
one  in  particular  —  I  at  last,  through  weariness  and  disgust, 
gave  up  the  chase,  and  became  a  devoted  lover  of  chasing  still 
wilder  game  in  the  beautiful  regions  around.  For  days  and 
weeks  I  did  naught  but  ride  and  hunt,  and  became  so  inured 
to  long  fatiguing  tramps  and  night  bivouacs,  that  with  the  ever- 
varying  excitement  of  the  sport,  I  not  only  slept  the  sounder 
in  the  open  air,  but  enjoyed  better  health  than  I  had  before 
known.  The  climate  of  the  interior  is  far  dryer,  clearer  and  more 
salubrious  than  by  the  sea.  On  the  coast  we  were  frequently  for 
many  successive  days,  annoyed  by  raw,  foggy  weather,  and  on  one 
occasion  there  was  a  light  fall  of  snow,  but  every  league  inland 
gives  a  more  genial  invigorating  temperature.  There  are  very  few 
unhealthy  spots  in  either  Central  or  Lower  California.  On  the 
low  banks  and  tributaries  of  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco,  fever  pre- 
vails to  a  great  extent  during  the  summer  and  fall,  but  elsewhere 
all  .epidemic  disorders  are  extremely  rare.  The  summer  subse- 
quent to  our  arrival  in  Monterey,  a  malignant  fever  attacked  and 
carried  off  a  number  of  foreigners,  but  this,  although  not  severe 
upon  the  natives,  was  regarded  as  something  extraordinary. 

In  these  hunting  excursions  I  was  often  attended  by  some 
friendly  hunter,  whose  time  hung  heavy  on  his  hands,  but  usually 
by  the  same  little  fellow  who  had  been  my  pilot  through  the  Carmelo 
mountains ;  his  name  was  Juaquin  Luis,  and  by  far  the  most  in- 
telligent, handsome  boy  in  the  place.  On  Sundays,  with  his 
gala  dress  of  blue  velvet  trowsers,  red  sash,  glazed  hat  and  silver 
rope  around  it,  he  was  quite  a  picture.  His  knowledge  of  all  the 
roads,  most  intricate  paths  and  passes  for  many  leagues,  was  re 


THE  LITTLE  HUNTER.  65 


markable,  and  at  times  I  was  almost  confounded  at  his  apparently 
instinctive  sagacity — he  knew  the  haunts  and  habits  of  game,  was 
a  capital  shot,  rode  a  horse  like  part  of  the  animal,  never  daunted, 
never  dismayed,  never  without  an  expedient,  he  was  the  most 
perfect  child  of  the  woods  conceivable,  and  quite  won  my  heart 
by  his  intelligence.  He  was  always  delighted  to  be  my  compa- 
nion, for  not  being  one  of  those  wise  children  who  knew  their 
sires,  his  home  was  none  of  the  pleasantest,  for  his  dame  was 
living  with  a  cross-grained  cobler,  in  relatione,  or  as  the  young- 
ster expressed  it,  she  was  wedded,  detras  la  iglesia — behind  the 
church — or  in  other  words,  had  cheated  the  priest  out  of  his  mar- 
riage dues,  and  being,  I  fancied,  rather  given  to  aguadiente,  the 
domestic  felicity  of  the  mansion  was  somewhat  marred ;  conse- 
quently the  boy  was  left  to  thrive  upon  his  own  resources.  Some- 
times the  old  lady  endeavored  to  detain  him  from  accompanying 
me,  but  I  threatened  to  stop  her  grog,  oy  reporting  her  conduct 
to  the  grave  and  reverend  alcalde  of  the  place,  and  thenceforth 
she  contented  herself  by  extorting  a  few  rials  from  her  child's 
store,  at  my  expense. 

On  passing  the  hut  on  the  outskirts  of  the  town  and  giving  a 
phrill  whistle,  out  sprang  Juaquinito,  with  his  little  black  head  and 
sparkling  eyes  shoved  through  the  slit  of  his  serapa,  swinging 
the  lasso  in  steady  circles,  and  noosing  his  horse  in  the  corral,  the 
next  moment  would  leap  on  his  back,  take  the  carbine  or  rifle,  and 
off  we  sallied.  At  night  we  made  fire,  ate  broiled  partridges  without 
stint,  and  slept  under  the  same  blanket.  One  of  our  excursions 
was  to  the  river  and  plains  of  Salinas,  about  fifteen  miles  in  a 
northerly  direction,  along  the  shores  of  the  bay.  These  plains 
vary  from  ten  to  twenty  miles  in  width,  and  extend  fifty  or  sixty 
into  the  interior,  and  like  the  great  plain  of  Santa  Clara,  have 


66  CHAPTER  X. 


evidently  at  some  former  period  been  the  beds  of  large  lakes  or 
rivers.  The  Salinas  is  walled  in  by  compact  ridges  of  mountains 
running  transversely  towards  the  ocean,  from  the  main  Sierra 
Madre  of  California.  The  river  is  a  muddy  rapid  stream,  sub- 
J6cted  to  heavy  freshets  during  the  melting  of  the  upland  snows, 
and  coursing  close  along  the  southern  edge  of  the  plains.  On 
approaching  the  heights  above  the  plain,  I  suddenly  checked  the 
reins,  perfectly  transfixed  with  surprise  ;  for  never  in  my  life  had 
I  beheld  such  a  magnificent  vista  of  its  kind  ;  one  broad  dead  level 
extending  far  as  the  eye  could  compass,  like  a  solid  brilliant  sea 
of  grass  and  flowers,  dotted  here  and  there  by  vast  flocks  of  sheep 
and  cattle,  with  the  margins  of  the  stream  marked  out  for  many 
a  league,  with  fringes  of  drooping  willows.  Descending  the  hill, 
we  swam  the  river,  and  after  a  short  ride  along  the  verge  of  the 
plain,  came  to  the  moline—mill — and  rancho  of  one  Bill  Ander- 
son, who,  with  his  head  powdered  by  flour,  like  a  lord  of  the  olden 
time,  received  me  cordially,  and  being  furnished  with  fresh  horses, 
away  we  started  to  slaughter  wild  geese.  They  were  congregated 
in  myriads,  both  white  and  grey,  feeding  on  the  rich  short  grasses, 
and  when  disturbed,  the  noise  of  their  wings  and  throats  was  truly 
deafening — they  were  excessively  shy,  and  finding  even  buck- 
shot not  eflicacious  in  doing  its  work  from  a  fowling-piece,  I  was 
obliged  to  throw  single  balls  among  the  masses,  from  the  carbine ; 
by  which  method,  in  a  few  hours,  we  had  collected  a  respectable 
horse  load;  they  were  quite  fat,  and  resembled  the  tame  goose 
with  us  in  every  particular,  except  the  bill  being  much  sharper 
and  smaller.  During  the  wet  seasons,  a  great  number  of  natural 
canals  intersect  these  lovely  plains,  and  are  filled  with  swans,  wild 
ducks,  snipe  and  curlew,  besides  multitudes  of  quails  and  cranes, 
with  now  and  then  a  large  eagle  to  fatten  on  them.  As  night  set 


PLAINS  OF  SALINAS.  f,7 


in,  and  the  wolves  were  beginning  to  cry  and  howl  melodiously 
after  the  wounded  or  sleeping  birds,  we  returned  to  the  rancho. 

Our  host,  the  afore-mentioned  Bill  Anderson,  was  a  Cockney : 
very  hospitable,  very  much  given  to  the  bottle,  and  withal  a 
great  talker  and  liar.  His  history  was  a  simple  one.  Leaving 
England  as  ship-boy,  he  deserted  and  drifted  about  the  islands  of 
the  Pacific,  until  at  last  he  found  himself  stranded  on  the  shores 
of  California.  Here  he  shortly  became  a  man  of  importance, 
from  having  been  summarily  carried  out  of  the  country,  with  the 
Graham  party,  who,  like  our  Bear  friends,  had  rendered  them- 
selves highly  obnoxious  to  the  native  population.  In  course  of 
time  Bill  was  released,  and  returned ;  established  a  mill  on  the 
plains,  married  a  Californian  wife,  and  then  got  drunk  at  his 
leisure  and  pleasure.  Bill  received  me  again  most  civilly,  as  he 
also  did  a  bottle  of  brandy.  Whether  attributable  to  my  arrival, 
or  necessity,  I  did  not  pause  to  inquire,  but  certain  it  is  that  a 
bullock  was  slain  immediately  thereafter  ;  and,  I  presume  in  com- 
pliment to  the  carcass,  an  inundation  of  dependents  of  both  sexes 
and  of  all  hues  and  colors,  had  dropt  in  to  share  the  feast.  Bill 
and  I,  with  little  Juaquin  retired  to  an  inner  apartment,  which 
happened  to  be  laid  with  a  plank  floor,  and  a  good  fire  in  the 
place  ;  there  was  a  very  respectable  preparation  for  supper,  and 
being  much  too  famished  to  mind  the  filth,  I  shut  eyes,  opened 
mouth,  and  ate  away  voraciously.  Dogs  soon  licked  the  plates 
clean,  in  readiness  for  breakfast,  probably ;  and  in  a  couple  of 
hours  my  thirsty  host,  from  a  too  frequent  application  of  the 
brandy  to  his  parched  lips,  became  very  gloriously  tipsy ;  and 
after  indulging  me  with  a  full  confession  of  many  sins,  and  all  his 
grievances,  moreover  his  utterance  becoming  somewhat  indistinct, 
I  bade  him  adios,  while  about  relating  what  he  would  observe 


68  CHAPTER    X. 


to  the  "  English  Secretary  of  State,  if  he  only  had  him  there," — 
pointing  with  the  bottle  to  his  dozing  sposa. 

My  shake-down  was  in  a  small  receptacle  for  rubbish,  fleas, 
and  other  lively  furniture,  which  in  getting  at,  I  was  obliged  to 
pass  a  large  room,  laid  out  with  about  five-and- twenty  of  the 
servitors — men,  women,  and  children — all  in  heaps.  There  were 
a  number  of  limbs  obstructing  the  passage,  and  I  was  obliged  to 
push  them  aside,  rather  unceremoniously,  I  fear,  for  I'was  greeted 
by  a  volley  of  Indian  gutteral  curses,  sounding  quite  like  a  person 
who  had  swallowed  a  collection  of  shells,  and  was  anxious  to  get 
them  up  more  expeditiously  than  was  possible.  Being  too  tired 
and  drowsy  to  heed  their  complaints,  with  Joaquinito  I  betook 
myself  to  mat  and  blankets,  and  never  moved  until  break  of  day  ; 
when  I  arose,  kicked  up  an  Indian,  and  sent  for  fresh  horses, 
and  continued  shooting  geese  and  curlew,  until  the  morning  was 
far  advanced ;  then,  after  swearing  devoted  friendship  to  Bill 
Anderson,  his  bullocks,  and  his  wife,  we  departed  for  the  port. 


CHAPTER    XI. 

WE  remained  two  months  at  Monterey ;  and  then  upon  the 
assembling  of  the  squadron,  and  the  arrival  of  a  new  Commodore, 
rather  than  play  segundo  violo,  and  have  the  blue  pennant  of 
a  Commander-in-Chief  flaunting  its  folds  in  face  of  our  red,  we 
were  glad  to  lift  the  anchors,  and  sail  for  the  waters  of  San 
Francisco.  Steering  too  far  from  the  land,  a  northerly  gale 
arose,  and  although  the  distance  is  out  eighty  miles,  we  were 
a  week  in  gaining  our  destination,  on  the  29th  of  March. 

The  face  of  the  coast  presents  the  same  general  aspect  as  that 
to  the  southward  of  Monterey — one  great  sea-wall  of  mountains, 
split  into  deep  ravines,  and  tufted  with  towering  pines.  Many 
of  these  trees  that  fringe  what  Humboldt  terms  the  maritime 
Alps  of  California,  are  of  enormous  magnitude.  A  German 
naturalist,  employed  in  scientific  pursuits  in  the  country,  assured 
me  that  he  had  measured  pines  in  the  Santa  Cruz  mountains 
fifty-seven  feet  in  girth  at  the  base,  and  carrying  the  lofty 
tops  upon  a  clear  shaft  for  two  hundred  and  seventy  feet  without 
a  branch  ! 

I  have  also  seen,  in  my  Californian  rambles,  pines  of  immense 
growth,  taking  root  in  the  wild  glens  of  rich  and  sheltered  moun- 
tain gorges,  shooting  up  straight  and  clear  as  javelins,  with 


70  CHAPTER    XI. 


symmetrical  columns  that  would  make  too  taunt  masts  for  the 
tallest  "  arniral "  that  ever  floated. 

Near  to  the  mouth  of  San  Francisco  the  land  recedes,  and 
passing  through  the  narrow  jaws  of  the  Straits,  which  are  framed 
in  by  bold,  precipitous,  and  rocky  cliffs,  where  violent  currents 
are  sweeping  and  foaming  in  eddying  whirls  around  their  base, 
you  soon  debouch  into  the  outer  bay.  It  is  like  a  great  lake, 
stretching  away  right  and  left,  far  into  the  heart  of  California. 
To  the  north  another  aperture,  and  still  another,  leads  into  the 
Bays  of  San  Pablo  and  Sosun,  washing  the  valleys  of  Sinoma 
andTulares,  and  fed  by  the  rivers  Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin, 
after  passing  over  the  golden  sands  of  the  rich  mines  beyond. 
To  the  southward  the  waters  are  not  so  extended,  and  the  bay 
laves  the  garden  of  California  in  the  beautiful  vale  of  Santa 
Clara.  Green  islands  adorn  the  bosom  of  these  vast  estuaries, 
and  everywhere  are  found  safe  and  commodious  harbors. 

Our  anchorage  was  near  the  little  village  of  Yerbabuena,  five 
miles  from  the  ocean,  and  within  a  short  distance  from  the 
Franciscan  Mission  and  Presidio  of  the  old  royalists.  The  site 
seems  badly  chosen,  for  although  it  reposes  in  partial  shelter, 
beneath  the  high  bluffs  of  the  coast,  yet  a  great  portion  of  the 
year  it  is  enveloped  in  chilling  fogs ;  and  invariably,  during  the 
afternoon,  strong  sea  breezes  are  drawn  through  the  straits  like  a 
funnel,  and  playing  with  fitful  violence  around  the  hills,  the  sand 
is  swept  in  blinding  clouds  over  the  town  and  the  adjacent  shores 
of  the  bay.  Yet  with  all  these  drawbacks  the  place  was  rapidly 
thriving  under  the  indomitable  energy  of  our  countrymen.  Tene- 
ments, large  and  small,  were  running  up,  like  card-bufit  houses, 
in  all  directions.  The  population  was  composed  of  Mormons, 
backwoodsmen,  and  a  few  very  respectable  traders  from  the 


PRANKS  ON  HORSES.  7j 

eastern  cities  of  the  United  States.  Very  rare  it  was  to  see  a 
native  :  our  brethren  had  played  the  porcupine  so  sharply  as  to 
oblige  them  to  seek  their  homes  among  more  congenial  kindred. 
On  Sunday,  however,  it  was  not  uncommon  to  encounter  gay 
cavalcades  of  young  paisanos,  jingling  in  silver  chains  and 
finery,  dashing  into  town,  half-a-dozen  abreast ;  having  left  their 
swecthearts  at  the  Mission,  or  some  neighboring  rancho,  for  the 
evening  fandango.  Towards  afternoon,  when  these  frolicsome 
caballcros  became  a  trifle  elevated  with  their  potations,  they  were 
wont  to  indulge  in  a  variety  of  capricious  feats  on  horseback — 
leaping  and  wheeling  —  throwing  the  lasso  over  each  other  ;  —  or 
if  by  chance  a  bullock  appeared,  they  took  delight  while  at  full 
speed  in  the  carrara,  in  catching  the  beasts  by  a  dextrous  twist 
in  the  tail ;  and  the  performance  was  never  satisfactorily  con- 
cluded until  the  bullock  was  thrown  a  complete  summerset  over 
his  horns.  These  paisanos  of  California,  like  the  guachos  of 
Buenos  Ayres,  and  guaso  of  Chili,  pass  most  of  their  existence 
on  horseback ;  there  the  natural  vigor  of  manhood  seems  all  at 
once  called  into  play,  and  horse  and  backer  appear  of  the  same 
piece.  The  lasso  is  their  plaything,  either  for  service  or  pastime; 
with  it,  the  unruly  wild  horse,  or  bullock,  is  brought  within  reach 
of  the  knife.  Ferocious  Bruin  himself  gets  his  throat  twisted 
and  choked,  and  with  heavy  paws  spread  wide  apart,  is  dragged 
for  miles,  perhaps  to  the  bear-bait,  notwithstanding  his  glittering 
jaws,  and  giant  efforts  to  escape.  Without  the  horse  and  lasso, 
these  gentry  are  helpless  as  infants ;  their  horses  are  admirably 
trained,  and  sometimes  perform  under  a  skilful  hand  pranks  that 
always  cause  surprise  to  strangers.  I  once  saw  a  band  of  horses, 
at  General  Rosa's  quinta,  near  Buenos  Ayres,  trained  to  run  like 
hares,  with  fore  and  hind  legs  lashed  together  by  thongs  of  hide  ; 


72  CHAPTER  XI. 


it  was  undertaken  to  preserve  the  animals  from  being  thrown  by 
the  Indian  bolas,  and  the  riders,  as  a  consequence,  lanced  to 
death.  But  I  was  far  more  amused  one  afternoon  while  passing  a 
fandango,  near  Monterey,  to  see  a  drunken  vaguer o — cattle- 
driver —  mounted  on  a  restive,  plunging  beast,  hold  at  arms 
length  a  tray  of  glasses,  brimming  with  aguadiente,  which  he 
politely  offered  to  everybody  within  reach  of  his  curvettings, 
without  ever  once  spilling  a  drop.  I  thought  this  better  than 
Camille  Leroux,  in  the  polka,  or  a  guacho  picking  up  a  cigarritto 
with  his  teeth,  at  a  hand  gallop  !  It  is  remarkable,  too,  how 
very  long  the  Californian  can  urge  a  horse,  and  how  lightly  he 
rides,  even  when  the  beast  appears  thoroughly  exhausted,  totter- 
ing at  every  pace  under  a  strange  rider ;  yet  the  native  will  lift 
him  to  renewed  struggles,  and  hold  him  up  for  leagues  further. 
Nor  is  it  by  the  aid  of  his  enormous  spurs,  for  the  punishment  is 
by  no  means  so  severe  as  the  sharp  rowels  with  us ;  but  accustomed 
to  the  horse  from  infancy,  he  appears  to  divine  his  powers,  and 
thus  a  mutual  and  instinctive  bond  is  established  between  them. 
The  saddles  here,  as  well  as  those  along  the  southern  coasts, 
partake  in  build  of  the  old  Spanish  high  peak  and  croupe,  and  are 
really  intended  for  ease  and  comfort  to  the  rider.  In  Chili  the 
pillion  is  used — a  soft  material  of  rugs,  smooth  and  thick,  thrown 
over  the  saddle  frame  ;  but  it  distends  the  thighs  too  greatly. 
The  Californian  is  both  hard  and  heavy,  and  murderous  to  tne 
horse.  The  Mexican  is  best, — less  cumbersome,  more  elegant 
in  construction,  and  a  great  support  to  the  rider.  The  stirrups 
of  all  are  similar — weighty  wooden  structures — and  the  feet  rest 
naturally  in  them. 

There  is  nothing  either  pleasing  or  inviting  in  the  landscape  in 
the  vicinity  of  Yerbabuena.     All  looks  bare  and  sterile  from  a 


LIFE  IN  YERBABUENA.  73 

distance,  and  on  closer  inspection,  the  deep  sandy  soil  is  covered 
with  impervious  thickets  of  low  thorny  undergrowth,  with  none  of 
the  rich  green  herbage,  forests  or  timber  as  in  Monterey.  The 
roads  were  so  heavy  that  the  horses  could  hardly  strain,  nearly 
knee  deep,  through  the  sand,  and  consequently,  our  rides  were  re- 
stricted to  a  league's  pasear  to  the  mission,  or  across  the  narrow 
strip  of  the  peninsular  to  the  old  presidio ;  but  in  the  town  we 
passed  the  hours  pleasantly,  became  conversant  with  the  Mormon 
bible  and  doctrine,  rolled  ten-pins,  and  amused  ourselves  nightly, 
at  the  monte  in  the  casa  de  lelida  de  Brown ;  still  there  was  a 
great  stir  and  bustle  going  on.  A  number  of  large  merchant  ships 
had  arrived,  bringing  the  regiment  of  New  York  volunteers,  and 
the  beach  was  strewn  with  heavy  guns,  carriages,  piles  of  shot, 
ordnance  stores,  wagons,  tents  and  camp  equipage,  whilst  the 
streets  were  filled  with  troops,  who  belonged  to  the  true  demo- 
cracy, called  one  another  mister,  snubbea  their  officers,  and  did 
generally  as  they  pleased ,  which  was  literally  nothing.  However, 
in  due  time,  they  were  brought  into  the  traces,  and  properly 
buckled  to  their  duty,  when  their  services  were  exerted  in  plant- 
ing a  battery  of  long  24-poundcrs,  to  command  the  straits,  and 
their  excitable  spirits  kept  under  control  at  their  quarters  in  the 
presidio. 

This  was  Ycrbabuena  as  we  found  it  on  our  first  coming — 
rapidly  springing  into  importance,  and  bidding  fair  at  some  future 
day,  even  without  the  advantages  to  be  derived  from  the  mines 
which  were  then  unknown,  to  become  the  greatest  commercial 
port  on  the  Pacific. 

Previous  to  our  arrival  in  the  waters  of  Francisco,  a  frightful 
incident  transpired  amidst  the  Californian  mountains,  which  goes 
far  to  surpass  any  event  of  the  kind  heard  or  seen,  from  the  black 
4 


74  CHAPTER  XI. 


hole  of  Calcutta,  to  smoking  the  Arabs  in  Algeria.  It  relates  to 
a  party  of  emigrants,  whose  shocking  inhuman  cannibalisms  and 
sufferings  exceeded  all  belief.  The  news  first  reached  us  in 
Monterey,  and  also  that  a  party  had  been  despatched  to  succor 
them.  From  an  officer  of  the  navy  in  charge  of  the  expedition, 
and  from  one  of  the  survivors,  a  Spanish  boy,  named  Baptiste,  I 
learned  the  following  particulars :  The  number  of  emigrants  were 
originally  eighty ;  through  a  culpable  combination  of  ignorance 
and  folly,  they  loitered  many  weeks  on  the  route,  when,  upon 
gaining  the  sierra,  the  snows  set  in,  the  trails  became  blocked  up 
and  impassable,  and  they  were  obliged  to  encamp  for  the  winter ; 
their  provisions  were  shortly  exhausted,  their  cattle  were  devoured 
to  the  last  horse's  hide,  hunger  came  upon  them,  guant  and  ter- 
rible, starvation  at  last — men,  women  and  children  starved  to 
death,  and  were  eaten  by  their  fellows — insanity  followed.  When 
relief  arrived,  the  survivors  were  found  rolling  in  filth,  parents 
eating  their  own  offspring,  denizens  of  different  cabins  exchanging 
limbs  and  meat — little  children  tearing  and  devouring  the  livers 
and  hearts  of  the  dead,  and  a  general  apathy  and  mania  pervaded 
all  alike,  so  as  to  make  them  scout  the  idea  of  leaving  their  pro- 
perty in  the  mountains  before  the  spring,  even  to  save  their  mis- 
erable lives ;  and  on  separating  those  who  were  able  to  bear  the 
fatigue  of  travelling,  the  cursings  and  ravings  of  the  remainder 
were  monstrous.  One  Dutchman  actually  ate  a  full-grown  body 
in  thirty-six  hours  !  another  boiled  and  devoured  a  girl  nine  years 
old,  in  a  single  night.  The  women  held  on  to  life  with  greater 
tenacity  than  the  men — in  fact,  the  first  intelligence  was  brought 
to  Sutter's  fort,  on  the  Sacramento,  by  two  young  girls.  One  of 
them  feasted  on  her  good  papa,  but  on  making  soup  of  her  lover's 
head,  she  confessed  to  some  inward  qualms  of  conscience.  The 


CANNIBAL  EMIGRANTS.  75 


young  Spaniard,  Baptiste,  was  hero  of  the  party,  performing  all 
labor  aud  drudgery  in  getting  fuel  and  water,  until  his  strength 
became  exhausted ;  he  told  me  that  he  ate  Jake  Conner  and  the 
baby,  "  cat  baby  raw,  stewed  some  of  Jake,  and  roasted  his  head, 
not  good  meat,  taste  like  sheep  with  the  rot ;  but,  sir,  very  hun- 
gry, eat  anything," — these  were  his  very  words.  There  were 
thirty  survivors,  and  a  number  of  them  without  feet,  either  frozen 
or  burnt  off,  who  were  placed  under  the  care  of  our  surgeons  on 
shore.  Although  nothing  has  ever  happened  more  truly  dreadful, 
and  in  many  respects  ludicrously  so,  yet  what  was  surprising,  the 
emigrants  themselves  perceived  nothing  very  extraordinary  in  all 
these  cannibalisms,  but  seemed  to  regard  it  as  an  every  day 
occurrence — surely  they  were  deranged.  The  party  who  went  to 
their  relief  deserved  all  praise,  for  they,  too,  endured  every  hard- 
ship, and  many  were  badly  frostbitten.  The  cause  of  all  this 
suffering  was  mainly  attributable  to  the  unmeaning  delay  and  in- 
dolence attending  their  early  progress  on  the  route,  but  with  every 
advantage  in  favor  of  emigration,  the  journey  in  itself  must  be 
attended  with  immense  privation  and  toil.  The  mere  fact,  that 
by  the  upper  route  there  is  one  vast  desert  to  be  travelled  over, 
many  hundred  miles  in  width,  affording  very  little  vegetation  or 
sustenance,  and  to  crown  the  difficulty,  terminated  by  the  rugged 
chain  of  California!!  mountains,  is  almost  sufficient  in  itself  to 
deter  many  a  good  man  and  strong,  from  exposing  his  life  and 
property,  for  an  unknown  home  on  the  shores  of  the  Pacific. 


CHAPTER    XII. 

TARRYING  a  fortnight  at  Yerbabuena,  we  then  crossed  the 
bay  and  dropped  anchor  beneath  the  lofty  hills  of  Sousoulito, 
where  we  busied  ourselves  filling  up  with  fresh  water.  This 
anchorage  is  a  great  resort -for  whale  ships,  coming  from  the 
north-west  fishing  grounds,  for.  water  and  supplies ;  the  procu- 
rante  of  which  was  an  Englishman,  for  many  years  a  resident  in 
the  country,  and  possessing  myriads  of  cattle,  and  a  principality 
in  land  and  mountains  ;  among  other  valuables,  he  was  the  sire 
of  the  belle  of  California,  in  the  person  of  a  young  girl  named 
Marianna.  Her  mother 'was  Spanish,  with  the  remains  of  great 
personal  charms ;  as  to  the  child,  I  never  saw  a  more  patrician 
style  of  beauty  and  native  elegance  in  any  clime  where  Castillian 
donas  bloom.  She  was  brunette,  with  an  oval  face,  magnificent 
dark  grey  eyes,  with  the  corners  of  her  mouth  slightly  curved  down- 
ward, so  as  to  give  a  proud  and  haughty  expression  to  the  face — 
in  person  she  was  tall,  graceful  and  well  shaped,  and  although 
her  feet  were  encased  in  deer  skin  shoes,  and  hands  bare,  they 
still  might  have  vied  with  any  belles  of  our  own.  I  believe  the 
lovely  Marianna  was  as  amiable  as  beautiful,  and  I  know  her  bright 
eye  glancing  along  the  delicate  sights  of  her  rifle,  sent  the  leaden 
missive  with  the  deadly  aim  of  a  marksman,  and  that  she  rode 
like  an  angel,  and  could  strike  a  bullock  dead  with  one  quick 


A  BEAR  CHASE.  77 

blow  of  a  keen  blade,  but  notwithstanding  these  domestic  accom- 
plishments and  anglo-Saxon  lineage,  she  held  the  deinonios  Yan- 
kees in  mortal  abhorrence ;  but  who  could  blame  her,  they  had 
murdered  a  brace  of  her  handsomest  lovers,  and  this  in  California, 
where  lovers  were  scarce,  was  a  crime  not  to  be  forgiven. 

One  morning  I  shouldered  a  rifle — indebted  to  Don  Ricardo 
for  horses,  and  his  beautiful  daughter  for  a  cup  of  water,  and 
being  attended  by  a  little  truant  ship-boy  as  guide,  who  had  been 
left  to  cure  hides  during  the  absence  of  his  vessel,  we  dashed  in- 
land. Crossing  a  belt  of  mountains,  we  struck  the  sea  shore,  and 
turning  to  the  northward,  ascended  a  succession  of  steep  hills, 
until  we  had  gained  a  rocky  table-land  above — there  was  no  tim- 
ber to  be  seen,  and  except  the  stunted  undergrowth  netted  to- 
gether in  valleys  and  ravines,  all  was  one  rolling  scene  of  grass, 
wild  oats  and  flowers.  Near  by  was  a  appall  sheet  of  fresh  water, 
caught  by  the  rain  and  held  in  by  a  narrow  plateau,  swarming 
with  water  fowl,  and  framed  by  broken  masses  of  huge  rocks.  It 
was  a  great  resort  for  deer,  and  I  found  them  herding  in  large 
bands  of  thirty  and  forty  together,  but  from  the  nature  of  the 
country,  so  open  and  free  from  foliage,  it  required  the  utmost 
caution  to  approach  within  striking  distance.  However,  I  man- 
aged to  pop  the  death  billets  into  the  hearts  of  two  noble  bucks, 
and  while  creeping  down  a  gully  for  a  shot  at  a  third,  I  was  star- 
tled by  the  shouts  and  gestures  of  the  boy,  "  Here's  a  grizzly  a- 
coming  !  here's  a  grizzly."  Gott  in  heimmell,  I  mentally  ejacu- 
lated— there  is  going  to  be  a  race.  Away  I  clambered  and  ran  to 
the  nearest  height — there  was  a  huge  black  monster,  the  size  of  a 
bullock,  coming  from  the  direction  of  the  lake,  and  tearing  up  the 
opposite  ridge  towards  where  the  horses  were  picketed.  The 
frightened  beasts  scenting  their  enemy,  were  plunging  and  snort- 


78  CHAPTER  XII, 


ing  terrifically,  until  at  last  they  broke  their  riatas,  and  plunged 
like  mad  down  the  steep — the  boy  was  making  his  heels  fly  as  if 
provided  with  a  steam  engine  in  his  trowsers ;  then  looking  upon  the 
mission  as  fully  accomplished,  I  tightened  my  belt,  and  leaped  in 
the  tracks  of  my  companion.  I  have  no  accurate  means  of  deter- 
mining the  rapidity  of  my  flight,  but  should  any  one  feel  disposed 
to  test  the  full  capacity  of  his  lungs  and  legs,  he  can  do  so  to  the 
utmost,  with  a  grizzly  behind  him.  I  little  thought,  the  last  time 
I  saw  one  at  the  Jar  din  des  Plantes,  and  took  such  interest  in 
watching  children  feeding  him  with  sweet  buns,  enclosing  nice  bits 
of  tobacco,  or  a  pinch  of  snuff,  that  I  should  encounter  one  of  his 
brethren  among  the  wilds  of  California,  with  the  joke  entirely 
the  other  way.  We  never  halted  until  a  good  mile  lay  between 
Bruin's  paws  and  our  own,  then  we  could  see  him  lazily  walking 
along  the  crest  of  a  hill,  with  a  saddle  of  venison  in  his  dainty 
jaws.  One  of  the  horses  in  his  anxiety  to  be  foremost  in 
the  race,  leaped  over  the  boy,  inflicting  an  unpleasant  hoof  tap 
on  the  ribs — fortunately  the  injury  was  not  serious,  and  we  con- 
trived to  catch  one  and  lasso  the  other ;  but  may  the  devil  catch 
that  bear,  I  was  obliged  to  leave  my  strapping  bucks  to  his  tender 
mercies,  and  return  to  the  ship,  scared  and  chagrined  beyond 
measure — laughed  at,  of  course ;  still  I  deemed  it  far  preferable 
than  to  be  hugged  to  death,  with  the  only  consolation  left  in 
knowing  that  what  part  of  one  is  not  devoured  will  be  carefully 
buried,  according  to  custom,  for  another  meal. 

There  is  scarcely  a  resident  in  the  mountains  of  Upper  Cali- 
fornia who  has  not,  at  one  time  or  another,  been  attacked  by 
these  formidable  beasts.  I  saw  the  scars,  left  by  the  claws  of 
one,  on  the  broad  back  of  a  fine  old  Irishman ;  and  he  informed 
me,  that  after  being  torn  from  the  saddle,  he  feigned  death,  until 


ANGEL  ISLAND.  79 

his  friends,  who  were  in  sight,  came  up,  and  drove  some  balls  into 
the  beast,  who  never  for  a  moment  before  removed  his  powerful 
jaws  from  within  two  inches  of  his  victim's  face.  They  are 
extremely  hard  to  kill,  and  unless  the  bullets  take  effect  in  the 
head  or  heart,  are  only  rendered  the  more  infuriated. 

Previous  to  the  adventure  at  Sousoulito,  I  had  been  in  the 
habit  of  expending  all  my  powder  and  prowess  on  Angel  Island. 
It  is  a  very  picturesque  little  spot,  about  three  miles  in  circum- 
ference, rising  to  the  height  of  near  eight  hundred  feet,  and 
radiating  in  numberless  ridges  and  ravines  down  to  the  water's 
edge.  There  are  many  fertile  slopes  luxuriating  in  fine  trees  and 
vegetation,  and  on  all  sides  pure  rills  of  water  leaping  into  the 
bay.  Lying  in  a  wide  sweep  of  the  San  Francisco,  within  a  mile 
of  the  main  land,  the  deer  resort  there  in  great  numbers,  to  feed 
on  the  palatable  herbs  growing  on  the  northern  sides,  and  also  for 
the  close  shelter  afforded,  beneath  multffrides  of  the  densest  net- 
work of  tangled  thickets  that  ever  man  or  quadruped  has  explored. 
Angel  Island  will  for  ever  be  a  bright  oasis  in  my  hunting  career, 
as  it  was  the  ground  of  my  maiden  prowess.  Nor  shall  I  soon 
forget  the  day,  when,  tired  as  possible  after  a  long  unsuc- 
cessful tramp,  I  happened  to  glance  down  a  gentle  ravine  and 
beheld  a  sturdy  buck  nibbling  daintily  at  the  young  shoots. 
Blazes  !  how  the  blood  and  excitement  came  dancing  back  through 
veins  and  wearied  frame,  even  to  the  extremity  of  my  trigger- 
joint  !  Up  came  the  heavy  tube  !  Click  !  crack  ! — and  at  the 
instant,  the  wounded  deer  sprang  convulsively  in  the  air  and  fell 
back  dead  ; — down  the  gully — heels  up  ; — the  edge  of  a  sheath- 
knife  made  a  very  respectable  slip  athwart  his  throat ;  ajyl  the 
same  evening  he  was  quietly  reposing,  among  less  gamey  meats, 
under  the  eye  of  the  sentinel,  on  the  frigate's  gun-deck.  I  have 


80  CHAPTER  XH. 


killed  many  a  one  since,  but  I  stall  never  again  feel  the 
same  thrill  of  triumph  as  that  I  experienced  in  this  my  first 
effort. 

I  also  had  the  good  fortune  to  slay  an  elk  on  the  same  island, 
and  I  believe  the  only  one  ever  found  there.  On  seeing  him  rush 
past,  I  at  first  mistook  him  for  a  horse,  but  on  perceiving  the  short 
cocked-up  tail,  small  elegant  head  and  branching  antlers,  I 
quickly  changed  my  opinion  ;  and  as  he  paused  a  second  on  the 
brow  of  a  projection  below,  to  honor  me  with  an  inspection,  I 
returned  the  compliment  by  laying  my  cheek  to  the  rifle.  Crack ! 
Away  he  trotted — none  but  the  does  bound — apparently  unhurt, 
and  I  followed  in  the  wake ;  the  next  bullet  made  him  squirm, 
and  at  the  third  I  noticed  a  crimson  stream  pouring  from  his 
mouth  ;  then  feeling  satisfied  there  was  some  essential  injury  done 
to  his  digestion,  and  coming  again  within  range,  about  a  mile  from 
the  last  shot,  I  pitched  another  ball  right  through  the  spine  : 
three  or  four  frightful  leaps,  and  down  he  went,  plunging,  groan- 
ing, and  bleeding,  to  the  foot  of  the  slope.  As  I  came  up,  he 
sprang  to  his  feet,  and  with  painful  meanings  attempted  to  give 
me  a  taste  of  his  horns,  so  I  let  him  have  the  coup  de  grace 
crashing  through  the  brains.  Upon  examination,  every  shot  was 
within  four  inches  diameter,  near  the  centre  of  the  back,  as  I  was 
each  time  compelled  to  fire,  as  he  stood  or  ran,  from  below.  It 
required  the  full  strength  of  six  stout  men,  with  ropes,  to  drag 
the  carcass  to  the  beach — weighing,  when  dressed,  over  six 
hundred  pounds,  and  we  found  him  most  delicious  eating.  This 
was  my  crowning  achievement,  the  pleasure  enhanced  by  enter- 
taining no  fears  that  the  bears  could  rob  me  of  the  prize  before 
getting  to  the  boat ;  nevertheless,  there  were  many  speculations 


ELK  SHOOTING.  gl 


volunteered  by  malicious  gentry  on  board,  who,  from  the  hair 
being  somewhat  rubbed  off,  in  the  transit  to  the  beach,  insisted 
that  I  had  massacred  a  pack-mule,  which  was  in  itself  men- 
dacious slander. 


CHAPTER    XIII. 

HAVING  completed  watering  at  Sousoulito,  we  left  San  Fran- 
cisco and  returned  to  Monterey.  Even  during  the  short  period 
of  our  absence  a  rapid  improvement  was  visible.  Many  Mor- 
mons had  arrived,  the  streets  were  cleansed,  and  vehicles  of 
a  civilized  build  were  occasionally  beheld  in  the  town.  Some 
companies  of  the  Volunteer  Regiment  were  encamped  on  the 
slopes  of  the  hills,  and  the  artillery  were  busily  at  work  throwing 
up  fortifications  on  a  pretty  eminence,  overlooking  the  town  and 
harbor.  Grog  shops  were  thriving  apace — handsomely  patronized 
by  Jack  and  the  soldiers, — and  monte  banks  and  gaming  were 
following  en  suite,.  Stone  buildings  were  under  construction ; 
and  among  others,  through  the  excellent  management  of  the 
Alcalde,  a  large  school-house  presented  a  bold  front  to  the  un- 
educated natives ;  thus  we  had  the  vices  and  virtues  hand  in  hand 
— no  existing  without  them.  There  was  also  a  little  newspaper 
published  weekly ;  for,  with  the  usual  enterprise  of  our  countrymen, 
and  their  naturally  saturnine  dispositions,  they  had  pounced  upon 
a  fount  of  types,  carefully  secreted  beneath  the  font  of  the  church, 
and  instead  of  being  applied  to  their  original  purpose  of  dis- 
seminating the  authority  of  Mexican  rulers,  they  were  made 
to  preach  the  true  republican  doctrine  to  all  unbelievers  among 
the  astonished  Californians.  The  editor  of  this  infantile  journal 


ISLAND  OF  GUADALUPE. 


was  Dr.  Semple,  who  although  supposed  to  have  been  connected 
with  the  famous  Bear  party,  wielded  the  editorial  pen  with  the 
same  facility  as  his  rifle,  and  merits  all  praise  for  having  been  the 
pioneer  of  civil  and  religious  liberty  in  the  country.  I  only  trust 
the  Doctor  may  live  to  fill  his  ample  pockets  with  gold  dust,  even 
though  they  be  lengthy  as  his  legs  or  editorials. 

Remaining  barely  long  enough  to  take  in  provisions,  we  left 
Monterey  on  the  19th  of  April,  and  beating  clear  of  Piney  Point, 
with  a  spanking  breeze,  turned  our  prow  towards  the  Mexican 
coast.  A  few  days  afterwards,  during  the  night,  we  discovered 
the  Island  of  Guadalupe,  laid  down  in  the  charts  more  than  half 
a  degree  too  far  south,*  though,  singularly  enough,  correct  in 
longitude.  Fortunately  we  had  changed  the  ship's  course  pre- 
viously, for  as  the  night  was  dark  and  cloudy  we  stood  a  chance 
of  making  a  nearer  acquaintance  than  would  have  been  satis- 
factory to  the  noble  frigate  :  in  fact  at  ml  times  we  labored  under 
great  disadvantages  in  being  destitute  of  maps  of  sufficient  accu- 
racy for  the  commonest  purposes  of  navigation,  and  those  at  all 
useful  we  were  obliged  to  compile  ourselves  from  the  rough 
sketches  and  experience  of  navigators  frequenting  the  coast ;  still 
we  made  great  speed,  and  the  flying  fish  flew  from  before  us  as 
we  entered  the  tropic.  At  midnight,  on  the  26th  we  doubled 
Cape  San  Lucas,  the  extreme  southern  point  of  that  long  finger- 
like  Peninsular  of  Lower  California. 

Lower  California  embraces  an  extent  of  territory  seven  hundred 
miles  in  length,  and  varies  in  breadth  from  thirty  to  eighty  miles ; 
broken  up  into  barren  mountains  four  or  five  thousand  feet  in 
height,  verging  close  upon  the  shores  of  sea  and  gulf.  The 
country  is  very  unproductive,  and  only  serves  to  subsist  a  small 

*  The  correct  latitude  is  29?  14'. 


84  CHAPTER  XIII. 


population  of  probably  not  over  ten  thousand.  There  are  a  few 
narrow  valleys,  watered  by  the  condensation  of  clouds  and  mist 
in  the  dry  season  from  the  naked  heights,  which  serves  for  fer- 
tilizing strips  of  rich  soil  below,  producing  maize  and  fruits. 

The  Jesuits  have,  centuries  ago,  even  in  these  sterile  regions, 
planted  the  banners  of  their  faith,  and  the  missions  and  villages 
that  sprang  up  around  them  still  exist.  The  principal  places 
are  Tedos  Santos,  on  the  sea  coast;  San  Antonio,  in  the 
interior;  San  Jose,  La  Paz,  and  Loretto,  the  capital,  lying  on  tho 
shores  of  the  inland  gulf.  There  are  two  excellent  harbors — the 
Bay  of  La  Paz,  and  another  higher  up  called  Escondida ;  both 
places  having  deep  anchorage,  and  fresh  water,  for  the  largest 
vessels. 

There  is  but  little  trade  carried  on  with  the  Peninsula  :  a  few 
small  craft  exchange  country-made  cheese  and  soap  for  domestic 
goods  in  San  Bias  and  Mazatlan.  Near  Cape  San  Lucas  had 
been  found  by  the  whalers  a  resort  for  a  new  species  of  fish,  pro- 
ducing an  oil  supposed  to  be  suitable  for  paints.  One  or  two 
ships  were  filled,  but  we  heard  subsequently  the  material  did  not 
answer  the  desired  purpose.  There  is  the  island  of  Carmen 
within  the  gulf,  which  contains  vast  lakes  of  salt,  as  inexhaustible 
as  the  guano  beds  on  the  Peruvian  coast.  This  salt  is  of  excel- 
lent quality  ;  it  is  cut  out  in  large  blocks,  stacked,  and  left  to  be 
washed  by  the  rains,  when  it  becomes  ready  for  shipping.  These 
are  all  the  known  inducements  for  trade,  of  the  Peninsula  and  the 
Adriatic  of  the  Pacific.  Guaymas,  situated  nearly  at  the  head  of 
tho  gulf,  and  Mazatlan  abreast  the  southern  cape,  though  neither 
possess  such  safe  havens,  with  so  good  fresh  water  ports,  still 
have  positions  more  adaptable  for  commerce  on  the  main  shores 
of  Mexico. 


WE  BLOCKADE  MAZATLAN. 


At  daylight  we  were  boarded  by  one  Ritchie,  who  played  the 
role  of  marine  postmaster  for  our  squadron  ;  and  then  steering  for 
thirty  miles  along  the  high,  barren,  sterile  coast,  we  hovc-to  off 
the  little  bay  of  San  Jose  ;  communicated  with  one  of  our  ships- 
of-war ;  again  filled  away,  and  lazily  fanned  across  the  Sea  of 
Cortes  to  our  destination.  This  occupied,  at  a  snail's  pace,  three 
long  days,  and  the  next  morning  we  awoke  within  the  scorching 
lines  of  the  tropics  —  one-half  the  horizon  bounded  by  a  dull 
monotonous  ripple  of  sea,  and  hazy  sky,  and  the  other  faced  by 
the  high  sierras  framing  the  grand  plateau  of  Mexico,  and  nearer 
a  line  of  hot  rugged  rocks,  and  islets,  and  white  sandy  beaches, 
together  with  ranges  of  houses  bordering  upon  the  shores,  and 
upon  the  hills ;  which  was  the  goodly  town  of  Mazatlan.  We 
anchored,  as  it  were,  at  sea,  off  the  bluff  promontory  of  Creston  ; 
an  island  itself  divided  by  a  narrow  strait  from  the  main,  and 
resembling  a  sleeping  lion,  with  paws  tossed  before  him.  The 
British  frigate  Constance,  a  French  corvette,  another  of  our 
own,  with  two  merchant  vessels,  comprised  the  entire  nautical 
coterie.  Our  arrival  caused  some  excitement  in  the  town,  and 
we  were  in  hopes  the  authorities  would  either  strike  for  inde- 
pendence, or  declare  themselves  neutral,  and  thus  open  the  port, 
as  at  the  time  we  had  no  serious  intentions  of  molesting  them ; 
but  we  were  disappointed  in  our  anticipations,  and  found  there 
was  naught  to  do  save  maintaining  a  dull,  idle,  passive  blockade 
for  a  long  month  to  come. 

The  day  after  our  arrival,  two  armed  boats  were  sent  to  make 
a  reconnoissance  of  the  old  harbor,  for  the  purpose  of  selecting  a 
suitable  berth  for  the  ships,  in  case  an  attack  should  be  made 
Not  perceiving  any  bustle  or  stir  pervading  the  town,  we  pulled 
warily  in,  until,  on  passing  out  from  cover  of  the  corvette's  guns, 


86  CHAPTER  XIII. 

we  unconsciously  raised  the  most  infernal  din  imaginable.  Drums 
rattled  incessantly,  dirty  soldiers  formed  in  companies  ;  the  Gov- 
ernor and  suite  attended  by  a  guard  of  cavalry  galloped  up  and 
down  the  beach.  Consuls  run  up  their  national  flags,  women  and 
children  ran  up  the  hills ;  all  evidently  in  great  consternation  at 
the  anticipation  of  a  hostile  invasion.  On  comprehending  the 
true  state  of  the  case,  we  amused  ourselves  out  of  musket  shot, 
by  making  feints  to  land,  and  by  this  method  we  kept  three  or 
four  hundred  filthy  villains  in  a  violent  state  of  fatigue  and  per- 
spiration, running  and  scampering  from  point  to  point  to  oppose 
us.  No  sooner  did  they  get  comfortably  posted,  and  weapons  in 
readiness  on.  the  cliffs,  than  in  we  would  dash  for  the  beach.  At 
last  the  whole  garrison  turned  out,  and  getting  a  field  piece  under 
way,  manned  by  three  jackasses,  rather  than  give  them  the  laugh 
against  us,  we  thought  advisable  to  edge  out  of  range,  and  thus 
when  they  had  cleverly  pulled  the  piece  into  a  commanding  posi- 
tion, they  could  only  greet  us  with  a  volley  of  execrations  instead 
of  grape  shot.  However,  we  completed  our  work  by  taking  the 
requisite  bearings  and  planting  a  buoy,  which  was  cut  adrift  the 
same  night  for  a  large  reward,  and  carried  about  the  town  in 
great  triumph  and  procession,  and  generally  believed  to  be  a  Yan- 
kee bomb.  Indeed,  these  Mazatlanese  were  extremely  wroth  and 
patriotic  during  the  blockade,  and  it  was  only  a  week  preceding 
our  advent,  that  they  had  illuminated  the  town  in  honor  of  Santa 
Anna's  victory  at  Buena  Vista.  The  fact  was,  the  Mexican 
general's  dispatch  was  not  altogether  so  clear  as  the  circumstan- 
ces of  the  case  demanded,  and  it  admitted  of  a  variety  of  con 
structions. 

Still,  after  escaping  the  bolts  of  Mars,  we  came  near  being 
sacrificed  to  the  cestus  of  Venus,  for,  on  pulling  towards  a  rocky 


THE  LADIES  DECEIVE  US.  87 

ledire,  we  discovered  two  sunny-faced  maidens,  one  attired  in  a 
red  camisetta,  and  the  other  waiving  a  manta,  in  a  most  enticing 
and  beguiling  manner.  Intercourse  with  fashionable  society  im- 
pelled me,  from  politeness,  to  regard  them  through  a  glass,  and  a 
capital  spy-glass  it  proved  to  be,  for  I  was  able  to  discern  thirty 
or  forty  of  their  admirers  temporarily  ensconced  behind  the  rocks, 
and  each,  too,  adorned  with  a  musket.  We  halted,  made  a  low 
obeisance,  and  retreated  rapidly  on  board,  leaving  them  the  oppor- 
tunity of  forwarding  a  despatch  by  express,  to  head-quarters,  nar- 
rating how  los  Yankis  eran  repulsados  en  varies  puntos — how  the 
Yankees  were  put  to  flight. 

On  the  following  morning  was  captured  the  first  prize — a  mis- 
erable little  schooner  from  San  Bias,  laden  with  plank  and  plain- 
tains,  rejoicing  in  the  classic  appellation  of  Diana,  and  having 
given  the  boats  a  smart  pull,  she  was  christened  the  chased 
Diana.  The  Patron  was  Italian,  wno  wept  like  a  pump — 
talked  of  his  utter  ruin,  and  starving  bambinos  to  such  an  extent, 
that  after  taking  and  paying  liberally  for  his  fruit  and  lumber, 
he  was  permitted  to  depart ;  he  afterwards  proved  to  be  an  arrant 
rogue,  and  turned  an  honest  penny  while  the  war  lasted,  by  smug- 
gling powder  to  the  Mexicans.  He  was  too  wily  to  be  caught 
the  second  time. 

At  night  there  were  always  signal  fires  burning  on  the  hill  tops 
around  the  town,  as  a  warning  to  vessels  approaching  the  coast ; 
but  with  all  their  vigilance  and  caution,  our  boats  after  being  out 
all  night,  generally  returned  with  some  indifferent  prizes — at  best 
it  was  but  pin-hook  business,  for  we  cared  not  to  make  war  upon 
the  poor,  causing  us  constant  annoyance,  and  after  all  the  trouble 
the  little  prizes  were  released  with  lightened  cargoes,  and  heavier 


88  CHAPTER    XIII. 

pockets  of  the  owners,  for  which  no  doubt,  the  scamps  would  have 
been  pleased  to  be  captured  daily. 

In  a  few  days  our  consort  received  orders  to  blockade  Guay- 
mas,  a  port  of  some  commercial  importance,  nearly  at  the  head 
of  the  gulf  of  California,  and  she  accordingly  sailed,  leaving  a 
small  prize  tender,  a  schooner  of  about  forty  tons,  to  be  "  turned 
over,"  in  a  professional  sense,  to  the  flag-ship — there  being  no 
more  enterprising  person  than  myself  who  cared  to  assume  so  im- 
posing a  command,  I  was  at  once  installed  in  the  skipper  ship  and 
was  immediately  paddled  on  board. 


CHAPTER    XIV. 

LEAPING  over  the  taffrail  of  the  Rosita,  without  the  aid  of  an 
accommodation  ladder,  I  found  myself  the  monarch  of  a  peopled 
deck  of  fifteen  trusty  sailors,  and  a  small  boy,  to  whose  trust,  from 
sad  experience,  I  confided  nothing  uncorked  or  unlocked.  There 
were  the  same  number  of  carbines,  pistols,  pikes,  cutlasses,  fishing 
lines  and  a  few  other  etceteras,  pitched  in  bulk  on  the  floor  of  a 
small  cabin,  just  sufficiently  bunkish  to  stow  my  very  worthy  first 
lieutenant,  Mr.  Earl,  and  my  own  ratiier  unportly  self.  This, 
I  believe,  comprised  all  the  equipage  that  was  to  add  dignity  to 
the  flag  of  so  tall  an  admiral.  Hoisting  all  sail  in  the  afternoon, 
and  bobbing  about  a  number  of  hours,  we  came  to  anchor  during 
the  night  under  lee  of  the  Venados  Islands — piles  of  rugged 
red  rocks,  five  hundred  feet  high, — steep,  precipitous,  parched, 
and  arid :  their  situation  was  within  a  mile  from  the  main  land, 
and  ten  times  that  space  from  the  frigate's  anchorage ;  an  excel- 
lent position  for  intercepting  small  craft,  bound  from  the  Gulf 
into  the  old  port  of  Mazatlan.  We  soon  had  the  little  Rosa 
clean  and  trim ;  got  up  new  spars,  and  on  their  tapering  stems 
spread  loftier  muslin  than  those  she  had  been  accustomed  to  carry, 
which,  in  the  absence  of  proper  materials,  the  sailors  had  quickly 
fashioned  out  of  duck  frocks.  Then  we  scrubbed  her  bottom, 
re-arranged  thestowrage,  put  on  a  new  coat  of  paint,  so  that  sho 


90  CHAPTER  XIV. 


worked  like  a  top,  sailed  tolerably  well,  and  with  her  Yankee 
pennant  and  flag  might  fairly  make  her  old  masters  on  the  shore 
right  proud  of  the  little  craft,  and  indulge,  as  they  did,  in  some 
yearnings  to  get  hold  of  her  again.  Our  life  was  not  one  of  quiet 
repose,  nor  were  we  overburthened  with  luxuries  and  comforts, 
but  anything  is  better  than  the  insufferable  monotony  of  a  ship  of 
war,  even  though  one  loses  in  comfort  by  the  exchange  ;  for  we 
had  variety  and  excitement,  which  of  itself  is  preferable  to  the 
tame  stupidity  of  the  quarter-deck  of  a  big  ship,  or  uninterrupted 
y awnings  in  the  gun-room. 

We  were  boarded  the  first  morning  by  three  drunken  English- 
men, in  a  whale-boat,  who  informed  us  that  the  frigate's  boats 
had  captured  a  fine  schooner  called  the  Correo.  They  also 
brought  off  what  is  consularly  termed  "  a  distressed  American," 
a  very  sombre-hued  person,  who,  by  his  own  showing,  gave  us 
reason  to  believe  him  a  Carolina  nigger,  whose  asperities  of  wool 
and  color  had  been  somewhat  softened  by  being  engrafted  on  a 
more  distinguished  stock  in  the  city  of  Boston.  His  profession 
was  that  of  cook,  and  the  most  urgent  cause  of  bidding  farewell  to 
a  large  and  extensive  assortment  of  friends  in  Mazatlan,  was  that 
he  became  involved  by  some  unforseeen  mercantile  transaction  to 
the  amount  of  nine  dollars,  over  and  above  his  comeatable  assets  ; 
for  this  dereliction  from  the  paths  of  honesty,  he  was  offered  a 
choice  of  being  half  starved  in  the  cared  or  entirely  starved 
out  of  it,  with  a  musket  in  his  embrace  fighting  the  enemies  of  the 
republic.  Amid  so  serious  an  accumulation  of  horrors,  not  being 
troubled  with  heavy  baggage,  he  ensconced  himself  within  the 
Englishman's  boat,  and  was  exhibited  to  us  on  the  memorable 
occasion  of  his  presentation,  attired  in  a  white  beaver  hat  and 
trowsers  of  but  one  leg.  A  few  words  we  caught  of  his  opening 


WE  TAKE  A  PRIZE.  91 

address  was  to  the  effect  that, — "  bress  de  Lord,  he  was  wunce 
more  under  de  country's  flag,  and  if  dem  Mexikers  kotched  him 
agin,  dey 'd  have  to  fotch  him  dead."  The  following  morning 
doctor  Barret  appeared  newly  skinned,  in  old  clothes  the  crew 
had  furnished,  busy  as  a  demon  in  the  mysteries  of  the  caboose ; 
hinting  his  capacity  for  the  office  by  proclaiming  that  he  had  been 
"  head  bottle-washer  of  a  Liverpool  liner,  with  glass  nubs  on  de 
cabin  doors  !  "  The  doctor  soon  became  oracle  of  the  schooner, 
and,  albeit,  tickled  our  palates  with  the  most  savory  of  messes. 

For  a  day  or  two  we  did  nothing  but  cruise  'pleasantly  around 
the  islands,  within  sight  of  the  Mexican  pickets,  sometimes  land- 
ing on  the  larger  Venado,  and  scooping  up,  from  a  natural  bowl, 
a  few  gallons  of  fresh  water  that  was  distilled  from  the  dew,  and 
trickled  down  between  crevices  of  the  rocks.  The  climate, 
though  excessively  damp,  was  yet  delightfully  agreeable,  tempered 
by  the  most  regular  succession  of  diunral  sea  breezes.  It  never 
rains  out  of  season,  and  were  it  not  for  the  heavy  night  dews,  the 
very  birds  would  famish.  Until  now  we  had  made  no  prizes, 
saving  quantities  of  excellent  fish  jerked  out  of  old  Neptune's 
bosom,  without  going  through  the  forms  of  condemnation  by  a 
court  of  admiralty.  Once  we  made  a  swoop  on  a  small  shallop, 
manned  by  a  couple  of  Frenchmen,  but  finding  nothing  for  the 
trouble,  and  the  Patron  swearing  he  would,  under  cover  of 
night,  bring  us  on  board  something  green  and  eatable,  we  set  him 
at  liberty,  after  whispering  in  my  ear  the  request  that  Messieurs 
would  discharge  a  carbine  over  his  boat  to  preserve  his  honor ; 
which  mild  compliment  we  promised  to  comply  with.  All  this 
did  very  well,  and  we  had  begun  to  be  quite  happy  in  our  inde- 
pendence. We  discovered  the  best  fishing  rocks,  clearest  bathing 
beach,  and  purest  pool  of  water,  when  the  powers  above  us,  kind 


92  CHAPTER  XIV. 


souls,  judged  we  were  too  far  removed  from  the  parental  pro- 
tection of  their  guns ;  talked  about  the  possibility  of  our  being 
cut  out,  and  cut  up,  and  so  forth  ;  and  the  little  Rosa  was  ordered 
to  take  a  nearer  station  by  the  Flag-ship.  There  we  lay  rolling 
and  tumbling  in  the  worst  possible  sea  and  humor,  within  a 
cable's  length  of  the  Constance,  keeping  a  bright  look-out  on 
the  town,  and  a  brighter  still  on  a  surf  chafing  rock  near  our 
counter.  Then  again,-  we  would  run  round  little  Creston,  which 
forms  a  sort  of  gate-post  to  the  new  port,  and  get  in  compara- 
tively smooth  water,  and  bathe  twice  a  day ;  eat  sparingly,  per 
force,  and  do  anything  to  fill  up  the  crevices  of  indolence ;  until 
at  last  we  were  again  ordered  to  resume  our  former  position,  and 
the  Rosa  gladly  stretched  her  wings,  and  the  same  day  dropped 
her  anchors  at  the  old  birth,  under  shelter  of  Venados. 

At  the  faintest  crack  of  dawn  the  next  morning,  a  sail  was  seen 
creeping  close  along  the  main  land ;  in  a  few  seconds  we  were 
springing  away  in  the  whale-boat,  most  of  us  sans  culottes.  The 
chase  was  a  large  sloop-rigged  launch,  with  a  great  big  sail, 
swelling  to  the  land  wind,  and  urging  the  vessel  rapidly  towards 
the  harbor.  She  had  a  long  start,  but  then  eight  ash  oars  acting 
on  a  light  whale  boat  will  make  it  skim  like  a  gull  over  the  water. 
We  were  upon  them  before  they  knew  it,  but  on  becoming  aware 
of  our  proximity,  and  finding  themselves  within  a  stone's  throw  of 
the  garita,  they  raised  their  voices  in  shrill  notes  for  assistance 
from  the  garrison.  I  felt  quite  assured,  however,  that  Mexican 
soldiers  were  not  given  to  early  rising.  As  a  las^  resort  the 
Patron  put  the  helm  down,  hauled  aft  the  sail,  with  intention  of 
running,  what  I  considered  to  be  our  property,  on  the  beach. 
This  proceeding  laid  me  under  the  necessity  of  attracting  atten- 
tion, and  covering  his  red  shirt  with  a  carbine,  I  shouted, 


CRUISE   OP  THE  ROSITA. 


Mir  a  !-  -look  out !  He  dropped  as  if  actually  shot,  the  sail 
caught  aback,  the  launch  fell  off  from  the  wind,  and  in  an  instant 
we  were  alongside.  By  this  time  the  guard  on  shore  were 
getting  their  eyes  open,  but  before  they  comprehended  the  true 
state  of  the  case,  the  distance  was  so  wide  between  us,  that 
burning  powder  would  have  been  an  utter  waste  of  bullets  ;  very 
possibly  they  consoled  themselves,  as  did  the  Patron  and  crew, 
with  paper  cigars.  The  prize  proved  to  be  from  La  Paz,  with 
a  cargo  of  sugar,  dried  fruits,  and  cloth  ;  but  what  was  far  more 
valuable  in  our  estimation  a  few  sacks  of  potatoes,  upon  which  we 
levied  tribute,  and  then  sent  the  vessel  to  the  Flag-ship.  We 
had  very  little  reason  to  plume  ourselves  upon  this  exploit,  for 
the  same  afternoon  we  were  placed  in  a  nearly  similar  predica- 
ment. Whilst  beating  between  the  islands  and  main,  with 
baffling  light  breezes,  we  became  embayed,  within  a  little  indenta- 
tion of  the  coast ;  and  shortly  afterward  a  dozen  Indian  girls  ran 
along  the  beach,  making  most  polite  and  hospitable  offers  of 
service,  if  we  chose  to  disembark.  At  the  same  time  we  could 
not  help  remarking  the  heads  of  numbers  of  desultory  Mexicans, 
peeping  out  from  the  under  growth  that  lined  the  banks.  Our 
position  was  certainly  somewhat  critical,  for  the  schooner  had 
missed  stays,  and  was  sagging  slowly  into  the  rollers ;  and  we 
became  painfully  alive  to  the  fact  that  the  little  Rosa  would 
inevitably  return  to  her  former  masters.  But,  many  thanks  to 
San  Antonio,  the  breeze  freshened,  and  getting  out  sweeps,  and 
using  them  with  a  will,  we  got  the  little  lady's  head  off  shore ; 
the  sails  filled,  and  away  we  danced  across  the  straits.  This 
lucky  change  in  our  fortunes  was  not  so  well  relished  by  our 
acquaintances  on  the  shore,  for  immediately  a  troop  of  thirteen 
dragoons,  with  an  officer,  rode  down  to  the  beach,  flourishing  their 


94  CHAPTER  XIV 


long  spears,  in  what  we  now  thought  a  very  furious  and  funny 
style,  and  then  galloped  and  pranced  along  the  shore,  to  our 
entire  satisfaction.  We  saluted  them  graciously,  by  hoisting  the 
American  ensign  over  the  Mexican,  and  thus  bid  them  adios. 
From  one  of  the  lofty  eminences  of  the  islands,  which  com- 
mands an  extensive  view  of  the  plains,  and  suburbs  of  Mazatlan, 
we  perceived,  near  the  scene  of  our  escape,  an  encampment  of 
about  two  hundred  soldiers ;  so  we  resolved  to  run  no  more  risks 
in  future,  merely  for  the  sake  of  being  lanced  to  death  for  their 
diversion. 

The  next  day  we  had  another  sail,  and  anchored  near  the  upper 
island,  dipped  the  last  pint  of  fresh  water  from  the  basin,  and, 
with  one  of  the  sailors  I  took  a  tramp  over  the  hills — -but  such  a 
parched,  burning,  suffocating  promenade  can  be  found  no  where 
else :  here  and  there  were  dense,  impassable  thickets  of  cactus 
and  aloes,  and  the  air  reeked  with  the  odor  of  pelicans  and  nests 
swarming  with  young  ;  while  the  newly  fledged  birds  bore  a  strong 
resemblance  to  slim  old  gentlemen  envelloped  in  yellow  flannel 
morning  gowns.  On  reaching  the  beach  we  were  glad  to  plunge 
in  a  tepid  bath,  within  a  clear  briny  pool,  shaded  by  a  straight  wall 
of  rocks.  Much  refreshed,  we  rowed  over  to  the  windward 
venado,  and  having  heard  that  deer  had  been  seen,  we  started  in 
pursuit.  This  island  is  less  abrupt  than  its  neighbor.  On  the 
eastern  side  there  is  a  wide  slope,  and  at  the  time  of  our  visit  it 
was  covered  with  tall  dry  grass.  Leaving  a  party  to  haul  the 
seine  and  broil  our  breakfast,  on  the  beach,  we  commenced  the 
ascent,  and  seating  ourselves  on  a  pile  of  rocks,  about  the 
summit,  we  perceived  that  the  prairie  beneath  had  been  set  on 
fire,  and  was  flying  towards  us  with  the  most  amazing  rapidity 
We  quickly  gained  a  rocky  acclivity  thirty  feet  above  the  ground, 


A  FALSE  ALARM.  95 

and  had  the  satisfaction  of  seeing  the  red  flames  lick  the  naked 
rocks  at  our  feet,  scorch  the  undergrowth  to  cinders,  and  then 
pass  like  the  wind  coursing  towards  the  other  end  of  the  island, 
leaving  us  nearly  suffocated  with  smoke,  but  thankful  to  have 
escaped  the  flames.  This  incident  was  sufficiently  amusing, 
without  indulging  in  the  excitement  of  the  chase  ;  and  we  retraced 
our  steps  over  the  charred  and  blackened  soil  to  the  beach,  even 
then  rather  wanting  in  appetite  for  breakfast.  The  same  evening, 
after  a  delightful  surfy  swim,  and  while  my  pleasant  confrere  was 
getting  the  arms  recapped,  nettings  triced  up,  and  all  in  readiness 
for  the  night's  vigil,  preparatory  to  a  sip  of  cold  grog,  incited  by 
fumes  of  a  cigar,  we  saw  a  rocket  let  off  from  the  main,  and  being 
presently  followed  by  a  long  stream  of  fire,  terminating  in  a  bright 
galaxy  of  stars  from  the  frigate,  we  supposed  it  to  be  intended  to 
answer  a  signal  from  us  for  assistance,  which  proved  to  be  the 
case ;  for  in  a  few  hours  a  large  cutter,  filled  with  men,  came 
dashing  alongside  to  aid  us.  We  were  grieved  to  thwart  their 
anticipations  of  a  skrimmage,  and  not  so  grateful  as  we  should 
have  been  for  the  extreme  solicitude  exercised  for  our  well-being 
on  board,  for  it  was  the  means  next  day  of  telegraphing  us  down 
to  the  ship.  "  Come  within  hail,"  said  the  bunting ;  "  anchor 
where  you  can  comfortably."  So  it  was  up  helm,  and  in  the 
dusk,  the  Rosita  crept  stealthily  under  the  sombre  shade  of 
Creston,  and  let  go  the  killick  at  the  gap  beneath  the  signal- 
tower.  We  were  neither  so  quiet  nor  secret  in  our  movements  as 
not  to  attract  attention  from  the  town,  and  shortly  we  could 
discern  boats  stealing  along  the  shadows  of  the  bluff,  evidently 
reconnoitering.  We  had  no  fear  of  a  surprise,  for  there  was 
always  three  pair  of  eyes  on  the  look-out,  and  a  man  at  the  mast- 
head. Mr.  Earl  and  myself  having  no  fancy  for  being  overrun 


96  CHAPTER  XIV. 

by  mice  and  cockroaches,  snoozed  away  on  deck,  always  on  the 
qui-vive;  besides,  the  arms  were  constantly  in  perfect  readiness, 
and  the  men  to  handle  them  as  determined  a  set  of  matelots  as 
ever  grasped  a  cutlass ;  and  notwithstanding  we  were  lying  within 
point  blank  distance  of  a  contemptible  three-gun  battery,  we  took 
the  precaution  to  anchor  in  line  of  the  English  frigate,  feeling 
assured  that  our  Mexican  friends  would  be  exceedingly  loth  to 
pitch  a  round  shot  at  us,  with  the  probability  of  hitting  Mr.  Bull 
on  the  horns ;  consequently,  so  far  as  mere  safety  was  concerned, 
it  did  not  in  the  least  affect  our  repose. 

The  next  morning,  after  capturing  old  Jack's  oyster-boat, 
which  was  of  daily  occurrence,  in  a  friendly  way,  at  two  dollars 
the  hundred,  in  company  with  the  Correo,  Captain  Luigi,  we 
sailed  thirty  miles  down  the  coast,  but  finding  the  ocean  deserted, 
and  not  so  much  as  a  canoe  to  be  seen,  we  beat  back  ;  the  next 
day  made  our  official  respects  to  the  frigate,  and  thence  returned 
to  Venados.  Here  again,  in  the  absence  of  more  agreeable  excite- 
ment, we  trapped  crabs,  shot  curlew,  paddled  about  the  beach,  or 
amused  ourselves  hauling  the  seine.  One  afternoon,  after  taking 
immense  quantities  of  fine  fishes,  of  every  size,  shape  and  color, 
one  scaly  mullet  of  plethoric  caliber,  weighing  some  forty  pounds, 
leaped  five  feet  out  of  the  net,  clearing  seine  and  floats,  and 
terminated  the  performance  by  running  a  joust  full  tilt  at  a  big 
bui-ly  Irishman,  breaking  the  bridge  of  his  nose,  and  keeling  him 
over  and  over  in  the  water  like  winkin'.  "  Take  him  off,  be 
Jasus  !  "  shouted  Paddy,  accompanied  by  fearful  struggles  in  the 
water.  It  was  rather  a  ludicrous  incident  to  all  except  the 
sufferer.  The  same  evening  we  had  another  visit  from  the 
oystermen,  and  the  trio  were  more  than  usually  groggy.  Con- 
trary to  our  advice,  Jack  determined  to  face  the  town  once  more, 


A  SUPPER  PARTY.  97 

brave  the  captain  of  the  port,  and  have  a  lark,  as  he  said,  off 
the  two  hundred  and  more  pesos  made  on  board  the  Yankee 
frigate.  Away  he  went,  but,  owing  to  his  faculties  being  some- 
what obscured,  and  mistaking  the  channel,  the  boat  got  among 
heavy  breakers,  was  capsized,  and .  stove  to  atoms.  One  man 
was  drowned,  old  Jack  himself  water-logged,  and  drifted  on 
shore  without  a  dollar,  and  the  next  morning  was  consigned  to 
the  cared  for  trading  with  the  enemy.  The  remaining  com- 
panion was  picked  up  at  daylight  on  a  reef  of  rocks,  and  taken  on 
board  our  ship  ;  but  he,  too,  poor  fellow,  met  with  a  violent 
death  eighteen  months  later.  However,  unconscious  of  old  Jack's 
misfortunes,  it  did  not  prevent  us  from  feasting  on  his  oysters ; 
and  the  fires  of  the  caboose  were  soon  sparkling  under  broiling 
mullets,  roasted  potatoes,  and  what  was  to  be  a  chef  tfmivre  of 
Doctor  Barret — a  steaming  chowder.  We  were  about  to  begin  a 
series  of  naval  entertainments.  Even  our  little  French  goblin- 
faced  valet,  Gashe,  devoted  his  energies  for  once  in  his  life  to  the 
matter  in  hand ;  and,  by  the  way,  if  ever  a  being  on  this  earth 
was  gifted  with  ubiquity,  this  youth  was  he  :  there  was  no  mis- 
chief dreamed  of  that  he  was  not  an  adept  in.  When  not 
attempting  some  unknown  method  of  loading  or  priming  a  carbine 
or  pistol,  he  was  perched  on  the  fore-truck,  swinging  on  the 
main-gaff,  stealing  sugar  in  the  pantry,  smoking  himself  sick  with 
a  pipe,  or  playing  pranks  on  the  sailors  ;  and  on  a  certain  occa- 
sion, when  he  tumbled  on  deck  from  the  fore-cross-trees  —  a 
height  that  would  nearly  have  killed  a  mere  mortal  —  we  all 
treated  it  as  such  a  capital  joke,  and  laughed  so  unmercifully, 
that  the  imp  sprang  to  his  feet,  jumped  overboard,  and  swam 
on  shore. 

The  little  Rosa  was  lying  calmly  at  anchor — watch  and  look- 


98  CHAPTER  XIV. 

outs  at  their  stations — awnings  closely  tented,  and  veiled  around 
the  quarter-deck — arms  and  ammunition  glittering  beneath  the 
light  from  a  lantern  swinging  beneath  the  main  boom,  while 
the  arrangement  for  the  banquet  was  spread  in  two  exact  rows, 
along  the  lid  of  an  arm-chest,  with  canip-stools  ranged  around. 
Captain  Luigi  and  his  mate  brought  their  own  spoons  and  white 
sugar.  Our  worthy  boatswain,  Mr.  Mills,  who  came  as  lord  of  the 
seine,  was  our  common  guest,  and  was  spooned  and  fed  from  the 
general  contribution.  We  fell  to  and  did  full  justice  to  the  feast, 
pleasantly  diversified  by  a  narrative  from  Doctor  Barret  of  his 
dark  true-love  in  Boston,  and  a  pitched  battle  that  suddenly 
arose  towards  the  close  of  the  entertainment,  between  Monsieur 
Gashe  and  Captain  Luigi's  butler,  a  youthful  Swede,  called  Baron 
Stockholm,  who  incautiously  accused  the  valet  of  surreptitiously 
secreting  divers  table-knives  and  crockery,  belonging  to  the 
Correo.  Thereupon  the  fight  ensued,  and  when  finally  concluded, 
much  to  the  regret  of  the  audience,  our  guests  withdrew  to  a 
canoe,  and  paddled  to  their  vessel. 

Soon  after  daylight  the  next  morning,  the  report  of  a  gun  came 
booming  from  the  Commodore.  A  large  ship  was  lying  becalmed 
in  the  offing  ;  by  the  aid  of  the  glass  we  could  see  the  little  bright- 
colored  flags  talking  to  the  stranger,  and  presently  our  number 
was  displayed,  and  the  telegraph  said,  "  Prepare  to  give  up  the 
schooner."  Alas!  shorn  of  our  honors,  we  slowly  hove  up  the 
anchor — made  all  sail — spliced  the  main-brace — and  thus  ended 
our  fortnight's  cruise  in  the  Rosita. 


CHAPTER    XV. 

DURING  the  period  of  our  blockade,  which  lasted  but  thirty- 
four  days,  there  were  no  demonstrations  made  by  the  authorities  of 
Mazatlan,  to  pronounce  against  their  government,  nor  any  steps 
taken  on  our  side  to  compel  them  to  do  so.  Finding  there  was 
no  intention  of  molesting  them,  the  alarm  excited  by  our  arrival 
soon  subsided,  and  with  the  exception  of  exchanging  a  few  mus- 
ket shots  occasionally,  between  the  boats  and  shore,  everything 
went  on  as  quietly  and  peacefully  as  if  no  hostile  force  was  at 
their  gates.  The  commandant^  of  Mazatlan  was  Colonel  Telles, 
an  Habanero  by  birth,  and  withal  a  brave  man.  He  had  pro- 
nounced against  Vegas,  the  President  of  the  province,  and  the 
troops  of  the  town  being  devoted  to  him,  he,  of  course,  like  all 
other  disaffected  persons  in  Mexico,  assumed  supreme  direction  of 
affairs,  and  laid  violent  hands  on  all  moneys  in  the  custom-house. 
He  was  described  as  a  pleasant  convivial  person,  keeping  quite  a 
seraglio  of  his  own,  and  altogether  an  eligible  acquaintance ;  a 
character,  of  which  at  a  later  date,  when  there  was  better  means 
of  judging,  we  found  no  cause  to  change  our  opinion.  Just 
previous  to  our  arrival  a  messenger  reached  Mazatlan  with  in- 
structions for  Telles  to  resign  hia  authority  to  General  Bustamente, 


100  CHAPTER  XV. 


who  was  en  route,  and  charged  with  full  powers  from  the  Mexi- 
can government,  to  direct  the  province  of  Sinaloa.  Colonel  Telles 
very  discreetly  incarcerated  the  emmissary  in  the  cabildo,  and 
begged  him  to  inform  his  master,  the  General,  that  there  was  no 
necessity  for  disorganizing  his  ideas  about  the  government  of  the 
port,  as  he,  Telles,  would  retain  authority  so  long  as  he  deemed 
proper.  It  had  the  desired  effect,  for  there  was  nothing  after- 
wards heard  of  Bustamente. 

Leaving  Mazatlan  to  be  guarded  by  our  consort,  we  sailed  on 
the  morning  of  the  third  of  June,  bound  once  more  to  Upper 
California.  Long  before  dark,  Creston  had  disappeared  be- 
low the  horizon,  and  the  ship  went  calmly  pushing  her  way 
towards  the  broad  ocean.  At  meridian  of  the  twelfth,  the 
sun  measured  an  altitude  nearly  vertical,  our  shadows  vanished, 
and  we  resembled  that  facetious  Dutchman,  Mr.  Peter  Schemmell, 
who,  it  is  said,  disposed  of  his  to  the  devil ;  at  the  same  time 
while  throwing  the  log,  a  voracious  monster  snapped  up  the  log- 
chip,  swallowed  some  fathoms  of  line,  broke  it,  and  went  on  his 
way  unconcernedly,  thus  verifying  the  old  song : 

''  A  shark  being  on  our  starboard,  boys  ! 
For  sharks  d'ye  see  don't  stand, 
But  grapple  all  they  get  at,  boys  ! 
Like  sharks  they  do  on  land." 

Without  any  other  incident  worthy  of  remark,  we  continued 
hugging  the  wind,  and  describing  a  great  segment  of  a  circle,  un- 
til after  passing  through  the  prevailing  north-easterly  trades,  we 
attained  a  latitude  of  thirty-six,  and  then  being  met  by  the  west 
winds,  we  turned  to  the  coast,  and  began  sailing  swiftly  towards 
our  destination. 


END  OF  THE  BLOCKADE.  1Q1 


The  twenty-fifth  day  from  Mazatlan  saw  us  in  sight  of  the  red 
woods  that  fringe  the  Santa  Cruz  mountains,  and  that  night  as 
the  moon  sank  glimmering  down,  we  let  run  the  cables  in  the  bay 
of  Monterey. 


CHAPTER    XVI. 

BEING  charged  with  dispatches  for  San  Francisco,  an  early 
breakfast  and  hasty  preparations  soon  placed  me  astride  a  dra- 
goon's saddle.  Attended  by  an  artillery  soldier  and  six  horses  for 
escort  and  cavallada,  I  drove  a  sombrero  hard  on  my  head,  the  spur 
yet  harder  in  the  ribs  of  my  cavallo,  and  away  we  sallied  en  route. 
The  sun  had  passed  the  meridian  when  we  reached  the  Salinas 
plains,  and  we  stopped  to  change  horses  at  the  Molino — a  sim- 
ple performance  for  one  who  can  swing  the  lasso  at  any  tune, 
but  for  those  unacquainted  with  the  mode,  it  is  requisite  to  drive 
the  beasts  into  the  corral,  near  every  rancho,  and  catch  one  at 
leisure.  I  found  my  friend  Anderson  as  hospitable  and  convivial 
as  ever,  and,  after  a  mutual  exchange  of  greetings  and  drinks,  we 
galloped  off  across  the  plains.  Instead  of  the  smiling  grassy  deserts, 
gaudy  flowers,  and  narrow  canals  of  spring,  I  beheld  parched 
earth,  large  patches  of  wild  mustard,  and  miles  of  wild  oats.  Be- 
fore accomplishing  many  leagues,  one  of  the  best  little  beasts  of 
the  cavallada  eluded  the  vigilance  of  my  body-guard,  and  we  were 
compelled  to  abandon  him.  However,  I  made  a  forcible  loan  of 
a  black  mare  brousing  by  the  road-side — according  to  the  custom 
of  the  country — and  which,  indeed,  proved  an  admirable  ally  to- 
wards the  close  of  our  journey.  Before  entering  the  gorge  that 
leads  over  the  mountains  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Salinas, 


CALIFORNIAN  GAMESTERS.  103 

we  halted  at  a  rancho — and  peeping  in  at  the  door  of  an  out- 
building, I  discovered  two  industrious  persons  playing  cards  with 
much  interest  and  deliberation — there  was  no  cash  up,  but  they 
assured  me  that  each  bean  before  them,  which  marked  the  game, 
was  a  transferable  I  0  U  for  a  bullock.  One  of  the  party  was 
brother  to  the  last  Mexican  governor  of  the  territory — who  ab- 
sconded to  Mazatlan,  after  showing  a  feeble  and  futile  resistance 
to  Commodore  Stockton.  He  appeared  somewhat  pleased  by  the 
information  I  was  able  to  communicate  from  his  relative,  Don  Jose 
Castro,  but  not  sufficiently  so  to  interrupt  the  constant  interchange 
of  beans  between  him  and  his  grave  companion.  We  commenced 
ascending  the  pass  that  bars  the  road  to  the  valley  of  St.  Johns, 
and  after  winding  a  couple  of  hours  slowly  among  the  hills,  gained 
the  topmost  ridge — which  commands  a  fine  triangular  view  of  the 
rich  slopes  and  plains  below — and  then  soon  accomplished  the 
descent — passing  the  ruined  village  and  dilapidated  mission  of  San 
Juan,  we  galloped  briskly  around.  On  the  road  I  enticed  a  mount- 
ed Indian  into  service  by  a  taste  from  the  brandy  bottle,  to  act  as 
vacuero — by  no  means  a  sinecure  birth  with  such  a  lazy  perverse 
set  of  brutes  as  we  possessed — but  I  was  grieved  to  find  the  soldier, 
sent  as  my  guide  and  defender,  had  more  than  he  was  equal  to 
in  keeping  himself  and  musket  in  the  saddle.  Moreover,  he  was 
neither  amiable  nor  companionable — a  serious  crime  for  a  traveler 
— and  I  was  obliged  at  times,  to  drive  and  catch  the  horses,  talk 
for  him,  and  in  fact,  do  all  but  eat  and  sleep  for  him — which  last 
accomplishments  he  enjoyed  in  perfection,  having  a  constitution 
like  refined  steel.  I  am  happy  to  add,  out  of  regard  for  the  army, 
that  he  deserted  shortly  afterwards ;  although  he  forgot  in  his 
hurry  to  return  a  silver  cup  of  mine. 

Skirting  along  the  banks  of  a  rapid  stream,  the  shades  of  night 


1C -4  CHAPTER  XVI 

began  to  fall  as  we  drew  bridles  at  a  small  rancho  of  one  Don 
Herman.  Our  host,  as  usual  with  the  race,  was  making  a 
slight  repast  on  a  paper  .cigar :  he  was  very  cordial,  and  good- 
looking,  as  was  also  his  still  handsome  old  sposa.  Like  everybody 
I  encountered  before  and  since  in  the  interior,  they  inquired  when 
the  United  States  Government  would  pay  for  horses  and  cattle 
taken  during  the  war.  Quien  sale — who  knows — always  came  to 
my  aid,  and  I  drawled  it  out  much  to  the  purpose.  Indeed, 
though  our  Californian  Volunteers  be  good  men  and  true  among 
their  own  kith  and  kindred,  yet  their  mistaken  ideas  of  what  con- 
stituted civilized  warfare  made  them  the  most  unscrupulous  of 
freebooters ;  and  they  could  be  tracked  far  and  near  in  their 
thirst  for  their  enemy's  horses  and  asses. 

My  host  had  no  children,  but,  like  Spanish  padres,  lots  of 
nephews  and  neices.  Amid  a  detached  group  of  young  people,  I 
observed  a  pretty  little  girl,  as  I  at  first  supposed  a  child,  nursing 
an  infant,  but  on  inquiry  I  learned  that  she  was  the  mother  at  four- 
teen, and  had  been  married  two  years  and  a  half;  a  fact  which  beats 
East  India  jungles  for  the  precocity  of  women.  Again  on  the  road, 
with  the  husband  of  the  little  baby-mother  for  guide,  who,  by  the 
way,  was  a  most  consummate  scamp,  incessantly  urging  me  to 
make  a  short  detour  of  five  or  six  leagues,  to  dance  all  night  at  a 
fandango ;  and  on  taxing  him  with  his  gallivanting,  and  incon- 
stant disposition  among  the  softer  sex,  he  replied,  with  an  air  of 
triumph, — O!  yo  he,  enganado  muchas  ! — Bless  you,  I  've  broken 
the  hearts  of  dozens — although  he  did  not  inspire  me  with  being 
BO  determined  a  Lothario  as  he  himself  believed. 

On  we  spurred,  and  urged  the  jaded  steeds  some  leagues 
further,  when  we  came  upon  the  rancho  of  Carlos  Castro.  \  was 
half  famished  from  a  long  day's  fast,  but  there  was  neither  bread 


MURPHY'S  RANCHO.  105 

nor  edible  matter  in  the  hut.  At  last  the  buxom  mistress  asked 
me,  Quiere  huevos  ? — have  an  egg  ; — caramba  !  si  amiga  ! — • 
Why  did  not  you  tell  me  of  this  before  ?  She  was  good  enough 
to  boil  exactly  fourteen,  hard  as  bullets,  but,  what  is  equally 
incredible,  I  ate  them  all  without  salt ;  and  then  being  in  good 
humor  with  all  the  world,  threw  a  peso  in  the  kind  Sefiora's  lap, 
and  with  a  lively  adios,  turned  our  horses'  heads  again  towards 
the  north  star.  The  moon  was  riding  high,  round,  and  gleaming 
as  the  silver  dollar  I  had  just  thrown  the  good  lady,  flooding  the 
whole  lovely  plain,  with  its  waving  fields  of  yellow  oats,  and 
magnificent  clusters  of  oaks,  in  one  continuous  vista  of  unex- 
ampled beauty.  Five  leagues  beyond  we  struck  off  to  the  right, 
and  after  losing  our  path  repeatedly,  amid  beds  of  water-courses, 
and  bolls  of  trees,  and  when  I  was  on  the  point  of  giving  orders 
for  a  night  bivouac  on  the  sweet  and  yielding  grain,  we  became 
aware  of  our  proximity  to  a  habitation  by  the  usual  barking 
diapason  of  half  an  hundred  dogs  and  curs,  and  I  was  not  sorry  to 
swing  my  weary  limbs  from  the  saddle  after  a  hard  ride  of  eighty 
miles.  In  a  few  minutes  I  was  stretched  beside  the  proprietor  of 
the  rancho,  Mr.  Murphy,  and  as  kind  a  specimen  of  the  true 
Milesian  as  over  took  leave  of  the  Hill  of  Hoath.  I  knew  that  by 
the  kindly  tone  of  his  voice ;  but  I  fell  sound  asleep,  giving  the 
old  gentleman  an  account  of  the  battle  of  Cerro  Gordo,  and  never 
moved  until  long  after  sunrise.  On  awaking,  I  found  myself  in  a 
dwelling  constructed  of  pickets,  driven  perpendicularly  into  the 
ground,  the  apertures  filled  in  with  mud,  and  all  covered  by  a 
roughly-thatched  roof.  The  enclosure  was  rather  a  primitive, 
and  I  should  judge  temporary  affair,  to  serve  the  first  year  or  two 
of  an  emigrant's  home.  The  dwelling  was  large  enough,  how- 
ever, to  comprise  capacious  beds  in  three  of  its  angles,  a  couple 


106  CHAPTER  XVI. 


of  tables,  dresser,  chairs,  and  a  variety  of  useful  articles  scattered 
around  the  earth  floor,  but  all  presenting  a  far  neater  appearance 
than  usually  characterised  the  ranches  of  the  country.  I  was  not 
left  long  to  conjecture  the  cause  of  this  tidiness,  for  whilst  lacing 
my  moccasins,  preparatory  to  a  yawn  and  shake,  by  way  of 
toilette,  I  was  saluted  by  a  very  nice  young  woman,  with  the  hope 
that  I  had  slept  well,  and  at  the  same  time  presented  with  a  large 
bowl  of  water  and  clean  towel,  by  the  young  lady  herself,  who 
was  afterwards  introduced  to  me  by  her  good  father,  as  his 
daughter  Ellen.  She  was  tall  and  well  made,  a  very  pleasing 
face,  lighted  by  fine  dark  grey  eyes,  black  hair,  and  beautifully 
white  teeth.  I  learned  from  her  own  rosy  lips  that  she  was  the 
first  American  girl  that  ever  walked  over  the  mighty  barrier  of 
the  Californian  sierras,  which  she  accomplished  with  one  of  her 
brothers,  leaving  the  wagons,  and  her  friends,  to  follow  on  a  longer 
route.  They  were  a  large  family,  and  most  of  the  children  born 
in  Canada,  thence  locating  in  Missouri,  and  so  on  to  the  farthest 
west  in  California.  There  were  four  stalwart  sons,  who  had  all 
more  or  less  been  engaged  in  the  last  troubles,  and  had  shown  the 
natives  a  choice  mould  of  bullets  from  their  unerring  rifles. 
They  treated  me  with  the  utmost  kindness ;  and  after  partaking 
of  a  capital  breakfast  of  new  eggs,  hot  bread,  cream  and  lomo — 
tenderloin — prepared  by  their  pretty  sister,  I  felt  quite  equal  to 
a  short  tramp  among  the  hills,  particularly  upon  finding  the 
horses  well  nigh  knocked  up,  and  requiring  a  few  hours  more 
rest. 

The  rancho  was  situated  on  the  northern  verge  of  the  broad 
valley,  on  the  borders  of  a  pure  sparkling  stream,  surrounded  in 
every  direction,  far  and  near,  with  golden  lakes  of  wild  oats, 
thickly  studded  and  shaded  by  the  oaks.  In  company  with  ono 


SALMON  AND  VENISON.  107 

of  the  boys,  Dan,  we  followed  up  the  course  of  the  stream  for  a 
mile  or  more,  and  I  then  had  the  satisfaction  of  sending  a  ball 
through  and  through  the  shoulders  of  a  large  doe.  Dragging  the 
carcass  down  to  the  water,  and  divesting  it  of  its  jacket,  we  then 
did  the  same  ourselves,  and  swam  and  plashed  for  an  hour  in  the 
little  torrent.  At  the  same  time,  with  an  extempore  rod,  twine, 
hook,  and  a  "  devil's  darning-needle "  for  bait,  Dan  pulled  out 
from  a  limpid  pool  delightful  salmon-trout,  full  two  feet  in 
length  ;  I  ate  part  of  one,  and  a  charming  fellow  he  was.  Leaving 
our  deer  to  the  varmints,  we  returned  to  the  rancho  at  noon, 
dined,  and  again  boot  and  saddle ;  struck  the  road,  and  six  or 
eight  leisurely  leagues  brought  us  to  the  settlement  of  Puebla 
de  San  Jose.  Here  I  was  most  civilly  received,  and  entertained 
by  an  American  gentleman,  Mr.  Ruckle,  to  whom  I  bore  a  letter 
Supper,  good  old  sherry,  a  cigar,  and  four  hour's  sleep ;  up 
betimes,  and  sent  the  jaded  animals  on  to  the  Mission  of  Santa 
Clara  for  a  bite  of  grass.  I  remained  to  break  my  fast  at  the 
house  of  an  agreeable  white-toothed  lady  named  Pico,  and  then, 
accompanied  by  Mr.  Ruckle,  we  hurried  along  the  road  which 
traverses  the  plain,  shaded  by  noble  avenues  of  oaks  and  willows. 
The  Mission  stands  but  a  league  from  the  Puebla,  presents  a 
tolerably  flourishing  appearance,  with  a  well-preserved  church, 
clusters  of  out-buildings,  and  well- cultivated  gardens.  It  is  by 
far  the  most  important  and  respectable  settlement  of  its  kind  in 
this  portion  of  the  territory ;  and  since  the  dispersion  of  the 
priests,  and  confiscation  of  church-lands,  has  still  fortunately 
retained  a  mite  of  its  former  wealth  and  influence.  The  good 
Padres,  a  score  or  more  years  ago,  were  pleased  to  live  well ; 
and  their  well-filled  granaries,  cultivated  grounds,  and  myriads  of 
horses  and  cattle — in  all  praise  be  it  said — were  the  first  to  induce 


108  CHAPTER  XVI. 


the  native  Indians,  who,  in  brutish  ignorance  and  social  degrada- 
tion are  even  now  but  a  remove  from  beasts  of  the  field,  to 
devote  their  time  to  some  useful  employment.  By  these  means 
the  shrewd  Fathers  never  lacked  comfortable  houses  to  shelter 
them,  nor  raiment  to  clothe  then-  sleek  skins.* 

Tarrying  but  a  few  minutes  at  Santa  Clara,  and  selecting  the 
best  horses  of  the  cavallada,  I  parted  with  Mr.  Ruckle  and  con- 
tinued my  journey ;  the  first  fifteen  miles  was  wearisome  labor 
•with  our  worn-out  beasts,  and  we  stopped  for  breath  at  a  ranchito 
of  a  pretty  little  widow,  who  did  the  amiable  most  refreshingly  by 
handing  me  a  dish  of  raspberries  and  cream.  Seeing  a  filthy 
Indian  poke  them  out  of  a  bottle  with  a  stick,  occasionally  giving 
it  a  suck,  did  not  enhance  the  flavor  of  the  fruit.  A  short  league 
beyond,  we  came  to  another  mud-built  rancho,  and  our  horses 
having  apparently  determined  to  proceed  no  farther,  accordingly 
tumbled  down  ;  there  were  half  a  dozen  women  and  children  about 
the  hut  busily  employed  in  cutting  beef  in  long  strips  for  drying  ; 
but  they  continued  then*  occupation  without  deigning  to  cast  even 
a  glance  of  sympathy  upon  our  pitiable  plight.  Indignation  getting 
the  better  of  my  misfortunes,  I  kicked  off  the  spurs  and  marched 

*  This  Mission,  according  to  Vancouver,  was  established  in  1773,  by  Franciscans, 
which,  with  one  founded  three  years  previously  at  San  Francisco,  were  the  northern- 
most settlements  of  any  description  formed  by  the  court  of  Spain,  on  the  continental 
shores  of  north-west  America,  exclusive  of  Nootka.  Although  the  Jesuits  had 
planted  the  cross  on  the  lower  territory,  on  the  peninsula  at  Loretto  (1697),  they  had 
not  explored  the  west  coast.  Of  all  the  numerous  voyagers  of  note  who  have  visited 
and  written  upon  California — Perouse,  Vancouver,  Kotzbue.  Belcher,  Wilkes,  and 
others— there  is  not  one  whose  delineations  are  characterized  with  so  much  truth  and 
simplicity  as  Vancouver,— not  only  in  this  territory,  but  in  the  groups  of  Polynesia. 
He  must  have  been  truly  a  good  man.  His  intercourse  with  the  untutored  savages 
of  the  Pacific  was  ever  tempered  with  justice  and  humanity.  He  did  more  than  any 
succeeding  navigator  in  stocking  the  islands  with  cattle,  and  his  scientific  duties  were 
executed  with  exceeding  accuracy  for  the  means  at  his  command.  The  English  may 
well  be  proud  of  the  renown  he  has  shed  upon  the  land  of  his  birth  ;  and  his  name  will 
be  for  ever  cherished  in  the  Pacific,  when  the  unscrupulous  deeds  of  his  great  Com- 
mander shall  have  been  forgotten. 


LADIES  DRYING  BEEF.  1Q9 


bravely  up  to  the  mansion  ;  then,  after  dodging  about  under  long 
fringes  of  raw  beef,  I  was  suddenly  confronted  by  a  stout  dame, 
with  a  mass  of  meat  clutched  in  one  hand,  and  a  dripping  knife 
long  as  her  arm  in  the  other  ;  this  savage  apparition  rather  abashed 
me,  and  I  timidly  inquired  how  she  did  ?  She  merely  gave  a  sharp 
upward  jerk  to  her  chin,  with  an  ireful  visage — as  much  as  to  say, 
"  I'm  in  excellent  preservation,  don't  bother  yourself" — pointing 
to  my  foundered  studs,  I  politely  urged  the  necessity  of  procuring 
fresh  horses  !  "iVb,  Senor  !  no  hay  !  the  horses  are  all  mares,  the 
mares  arc  wild — there  is  no  one  to  catch  them" — in  other  words 
— I'll  see  you  in  purgatory  first.  So  I  called  up  a  little  resolu- 
tion, though  far  from  feeling  it,  and  letting  the  butt  of  my  rifle 
fall  heavily  to  the  ground,  I  said,  "  Hark  ye,  my  friend,  if  you 
don't  speedily  furnish  me  with  beasts  I'll  make  a  seizure  of  that 
fine  animal  I  see  saddled  in  the  corral ;  besides,  I'm  willing  to  pay 
liberally."  At  the  word  "  money  "  the  patrona's  features  relaxed, 
tu  no  eres  voluntario — she  remarked  ! — par  dios  !  no  !  mi  alma  yo 
soy  de  la  marina,  y  Catolico  ademas  ! — I'm  a  sailor  and  a  good 
Catholic  to  boot.  At  this  last  admission  and  the  sight  of  a  handful 
of  bright  pesos,  the  whole  party  surrounded  me — ah  !  tan  malici- 
mos  son  esos  malditos  roluntarios  !  Ave  Maria  !  El  official  no  es 
hcrcge — es  Christiana — y  pagara  los  caballos — ah,  what  light- 
fingered  gentry  were  the  Volunteers  ;  but  the  gentleman  is  a 
Christian,  not  a  heretic,  and  going  to  pay  like  a  trump — they  ex- 
claimed. There  was  still  some  doubts  as  to  whether  I  intended  to 
pay  in  ejfcctos  or  hard  tin,  and  if  I  could  make  it  convenient  to 
liquidate  a  few  outstanding  claims  which  some  of  my  countrymen 
had  forgotten  to  adjust ;  but  when  satisfied  on  that  point  a  small 
boy  ran  off  to  drive  in  the  cavallada.  Meanwhile  the  Sefiora  poured 
me  out  a  cup  of  aguadiente,  touched  her  lips  to  it,  and  handed  it 


110  CHAPTER  XVI. 


to  me  to  quaff.  The  drove  of  horses  was  soon  brought  up,  and 
,  as  a  particular  favor,  the  patrona  selected  her  own  nag  to  bear 
me — a  small  mare  and  natural  pacer  that  rattled  along  at  a  great 
rate  without  whip  or  spur — embracing  the  party,  we  again  mount- 
ed and  started  off  in  fine  style.  The  country  has  the  same  lovely 
aspect  as  in  the  vicinity  of  San  Jose  ;  great  level  plains  teeming 
in  wild  grain,  and  wide-spreading  foliage  of  oaks,  chesnuts,  maple 
and  willows,  enclosed  between  high-swelling  hills.  In  fact  the 
country  for  more  than  forty  leagues  of  this  broad  valley  is  so 
perfectly  level  that  a  coach  could  be  driven  in  any  direction 
without  serious  obstruction ;  however,  there  is  one  annoyance  to 
which  horses  are  subjected,  in  the  multitudes  of  holes  burroughed 
by  a  species  of  ground  squirrels,  very  frequently  bringing  horse 
and  rider  to  their  faces.  A  few  leagues  rapid  travelling  brought 
us  in  sight  of  the  southern  arm  of  the  waters  of  San  Francisco, 
and  skirting  along  its  shores,  by  sunset  we  had  left  the  low  coun- 
try, traversed  the  rugged  hills  of  the  sea-girt  peninsular,  floun- 
dered knee  deep  in  the  sandy  road,  and  by  nightfall  I  found  myself 
comfortably  housed  with  a  generous  batchelor  friend,  Mr.  Frank 
Ward,  in  Yerbabuena. 


CHAPTER    XVII. 

REMAINING  but  a  few  days  in  Yerbabuena,  and  when  on  the 
point  of  taking  leave,  I  met  with  a  brace  of  navy  men,  who  were 
about  to  sail  up  the  Bay  for  a  hunt  among  the  hills ;  so  giving 
orders  to  the  brave  courier  to  join  me  at  Puebla,  I  embarked  with 
my  friends  one  day  at  noon  in  a  small  launch,  and  a  stiff  sea-breeze 
soon  wafted  us  forty  miles ;  then  entering  a  narrow  creek,  formed 
by  high  sedgy  reeds  that  sprang  from  the  shallow  water,  we  per- 
formed a  tortuous  serpentine  track,  in  a  labyrinth  that  fairly 
required  Ariadne's  clue  to  thread  its  mazy  windings,  actually  sail- 
ing sixteen  miles  to  gain  three,  as  the  bird  flies  ;  at  last  we  arrived 
at  the  embarcadera  of  San  Jose,  and  after  a  fatiguing  walk,  at 
dark  we  came  upon  a  tenement.  The  house  was  filled  with 
women  and  dogs,  who  chattered  and  cheated,  dinned  and  dunned 
us  to  such  a  pitch  that  we  were  obliged  to  seek  shelter  elsewhere  ; 
and  accordingly  we  packed  our  saddles,  blankets  and  rifles,  and  at 
about  nine  o'clock  reached  the  estate  of  one  Don  Ignacio  de  Sylva. 
Our  host  received  us  with  open  arms,  prepared  a  supper  of  beef 
and  tortillas,  and  in  return,  we  complimented  him  with  strong 
rummers  of  punch ;  his  fat  spouse  joined  in  the  festivities,  and 
when  the  evening  was  somewhat  advanced,  a  shake-down  was 
arranged  for  us  on  the  floor  of  the  sala,  which,  fortunately  for  fleas 
and  ourselves,  chanced  to  be  laid  with  a  floor  of  boards.  My 


112  CHAPTER  XVII. 


slumbers  were  greatly  disturbed  by  being  placed  in  full  view  of  a 
pretty  young  brunette,  whose  light  from  an  adjoining  apartment 
threw  her  form  in  most  distinct  rays  of  animated  beauty,  amusing 
herself  the  while  playing  with  a  baby,  whilst  her  filthy  villain  of 
a  husband  regaled  himself  for  an  hour  or  more  with  a  cigarrito. 
My  dreams  were  none  of  the  pleasantest,  and  I  was  glad  when  day 
dawned  to  light  me  out  of  the  dwelling,  and  breathe  the  pure 
morning  air.  Como  les  gusta  a  los  Americanos  el  fresco, 
said  our  lazy  host,  as  he  sat  wrapped  in  a  blanket  on  a  hide,  ob- 
serving me  take  a  bath  in  a  little  rivulet  near  by ;  se  hace  dano — 
be  the  death  of  him — as  he  blew  the  cigar  smoke  from  his  lungs 
with  a  deep  sigh  !  Notwithstanding  his  indolence  we  found  him 
a  most  consummate  extortioner,  and  after  throwing  every  impedi- 
ment in  our  way,  he  hired  us  miserable  horses  at  an  extravagant 
rate ;  and  then  mounting,  we  took  the  road  over  a  dry,  salt, 
marshy  country.  Passing  the  mission  of  St.  Josephs,  we  never 
halted  until  reaching  Puebla,  where  we  were  most  kindly  wel- 
comed by  Mr.  Ruckle.  The  town  is  planted  in  the  midst  of  the 
great  plain,  with  small  streams  of  water,  which  is  much  needed 
elsewhere,  coursing  on  either  side.  The  place  contained  some 
five  hundred  inhabitants,  the  dwellings  all  of  the  adobie  mud-built 
order  of  architecture,  with  but  one  road  between  them  :  for  ten 
leagues  around  the  land  is  most  fertile,  and  the  country  in  many 
respects  appears  to  possess  great  advantages,  and  has  the  repu- 
tation of  being  the  garden  of  Upper  California.  We  saw  quan- 
tities of  fruits,  peas,  peaches,  and  grapes,  very  unripe,  but  the 
natives  like  them  the  better  green. 

Under  no  contingency  does  the  natural  face  of  Upper  Califor- 
nia appear  susceptible  of  supporting  a  very  large  population ;  the 
country  is  hilly  and  m  juntainous ;  great  dryness  prevails  during 


SANTA  CLARA.  113 


the  summers,  and  occasionally  excessive  droughts  parch  up  the 
soil  for  periods  of  twelve  or  eighteen  mouths.  Only  in  the  plains 
and  valleys  where  streams  are  to  be  found,  and  eveti  those  will 
have  to  be  watered  by  artificial  irrigation,  docs  there  seem  the 
hope  of  being  sufficient  tillable  land  to  repay  the  husbandman  and 
afford  subsistence  to  the  inhabitants.  Sheep  and  cattle  may  be 
raised  to  any  extent ;  as  the  gentle  slopes,  clothed  in  rich  wild 
grasses,  afford  excellent  districts  for  grazing. 

We  breakfasted  at  the  residence  of  a  plain,  sensible  and  indus- 
trious family  of  emigrants  from  Virginia,  named  Campbell ;  then 
strolling  to  the  banks  of  a  little  rivulet,  we  took  siesta  beneath 
the  shade  of  drooping  willows,  surrounded  by  groups  of  brunettas 
washing  in  the  pools  near  by.  In  the  afternoon  my  fellow  travel- 
lers left  me  for  their  hunt  among  the  mountains  ;  and  upon  learn- 
ing that  Commodore  Stockton  was  in  the  village,  I  immediately 
made  my  homage.  He  was  by  long  odds  the  most  popular  per- 
son in  California,  and  by  his  enthusiasm,  energy,  and  determina- 
tion, accomplished  more,  even  with  the  limited  means  at  his  com- 
mand, in  the  acquisition  of  this  valuable  territory,  than  any  other 
man  before  or  since,  who  has  planted  his  foot  on  the  soil. 

The  following  day  was  Sunday,  the  Fourth  of  July,  and  more- 
over the  fast  day  of  the  Patron  Saint  of  California — Nuestra 
Senora  del  Refugio.  Meeting  Miss  Ellen  Murphy  and  brother 
on  the  road  bound  to  high  mass  at  the  mission,  I  agreed  to  accom- 
pany them  and  return  to  their  rancho  in  the  evening.  There 
was  a  large  assemblage  in  Santa  Clara,  and  we  attended  church. 
The  building  was  oblong,  painted  roughly  in  fresco,  and  deco- 
rated with  a  number  of  coarse  paintings,  and  lots  of  swallow-tailed, 
green  and  yellow  satin  pennants  dangling  from  the  ceiling.  During 
service  an  indefatigable  cannonier,  outside,  gave  frequent  feux  de 


114  CHAPTER  XVII. 


joie,  from  a  graduated  scale  of  diminutive  culverins — made  of 
brass  in  shape  of  pewter  porter  pots,  half  filled  with  powder,  and 
the  charge  rammed  down  with  pounded  bricks — this  with  music 
of  kettle-drums,  cymbals  and  fiddles  made  a  very  respectable  din  ; 
there  were  two  gentlemanly  priests  of  the  order  of  Saint  Francisco, 
whose  acquaintance  I  afterwards  made,  who  preached  each  a  brief 
sermon  with  eloquence  and  force.  Among  the  congregation  were 
all  the  belles  and  dandies  of  the  valley ;  the  former  kneeled  de- 
murely on  little  rugs  or  bits  of  carpet  in  the  nave  of  the  church  ; 
but  the  latter  were  lounging  near  the  doors — their  gala  costume 
is  quite  in  keeping  with  Andalusia — and  one  handsome  fellow  at 
my  side  took  my  eye,  as  I  have  no  doubt  he  did  that  of  many  a 
brighter.  He  was  dressed  in  a  close-fitting  blue  cloth  jacket; 
sky-blue  velvet  trowsers,  slashed  from  the  thigh  down,  and  jing- 
ling with  small  filagree  silver  buttons  ;  snow-white  laced  calgoncil- 
los,  terminated  by  nicely  stamped  and  embroidered  botas  ;  around 
the  waist  was  passed  a  heavy  crimson  silk  sash ;  a  gay  woollen 
serapa  hung  gracefully  over  the  shoulder ;  in  one  hand  a  sugar- 
loafed,  glazed  sombrero,  bound  with  thick  silver  cords ;  and  in  the 
other,  silver  spurs  of  an  enormous  size,  each  spike  of  the  rowels 
two  inches  long  :  all  these  bright  colors — set  off  by  dark,  brilliant 
eyes,  jetty  black  locks,  and  pliant  figure — would  have  made  him 
irresistible  anywhere.  Turning  towards  me,  he  asked,  smilingly, 
Porque  no  se  arrodilla  vd  en  Misal — Why  don't  you  kneel  at 
the  Mass? — Tengo  pierna  de  palo,  quoth  I,  quite  gravely: 
glancing  at  my  pins  with  much  interest,  to  discover  if  they  were 
of  timber,  he  seemed  to  relish  the  joke,  and  we  then  s''dled  out  of 
the  church,  and  became  firm  friends  on  the  spot. 

After  service,  I  was  introduced  to  many  American  emigrants, 
mostly  Mormons,  who,  in  a  free  and  easy  style,  had  taken  posses- 


WE  ATTEND  MASS.  H5 


sion  of  the  outbuildings  and  tenements  belonging  to  the  Mission ; 
and  who,  in  their  contempt  for  the  kind  and  good  Padres,  and 
rightful  proprietors  of  the  domain,  were  not  only  averse  to  request 
permission  to  remain  for  a  season,  but  were  hugely  indignant  at 
the  military  Governor  of  California,  Colonel  Mason,  for  having 
issued  a  decree,  requiring  these  lazy  gentlemen  to  leave  the  lands 
of  the  Church.  Notwithstanding  their  mutterings,  a  few  weeks 
later  they  were  summarily  forced  out  by  the  bayonet. 

Whilst  we  were  at  mass,  a  serious  mishap  occurred  to  young 
Murphy.  A  juvenile  damsel,  whose  cognomen  was  "  sugar- 
plumb,"  and  being  the  only  eligible  maiden  for  matrimony,  I  was 
assured  by  a  hospitable  dame,  one  Mrs.  Bennett,  "  that  she  was 
the  forwardest  gall  in  the  Mission,"  through  some  silly,  childish 
freak,  frightened  my  friend's  horse,  so  that  the  restive  animal 
broke  the  halter,  and  made  long  strides  over  the  plain.  A  couple 
of  drunken  Indians  started  in  pursuit,  but  having  a  quarrel  on  the 
way,  one  plunged  his  cuchillo  up  to  the  haft  in  his  companion's 
thigh,  which  brought  him,  deluged  in  blood,  from  the  saddle. 
We  found  this  poor  devil  and  conveyed  him  to  town ;  but  of  the 
runaway  horse  and  saddle,  which  was  worth  half-a-dozen  Indian 
lives,  or  horses,  we  could  learn  nor  see  nothing.  We  made  but 
a  short  stay  in  Puebla,  and  an  hour  before  the  sun  sank  for  the 
day,  we  put  foot  in  stirrup,  and  a  long  swinging  gallop  of  seven 
leagues  soon  carried  us  to  good  Mr.  Murphy,  and  a  good 
supper. 

The  following  morning  I  arose  with  the  lark,  took  a  long  pull 
at  the  milk-pail,  volunteered  a  little  surgical  advice  to  an  Indian 
vacuero,  who  being  thrown  from  his  horse,  was  suffering  under  a 
badly-contused  thigh  ;  ho  had  bound  the  limb  tightly  with  strands 
of  hide,  and  was  doing  a  new  principle  of  local  bleeding  by 


116  CHAPTER  XVII. 


puncturing  the  flesh  with  sharp  stones— a  mod  e  of  treatment  very 
much  in  vogue  with  the  natives.  Under  guidance  of  Dan,  we 
mounted  capital  horses,  and  sallied  out  for  a  bear-hunt.  Enter- 
ing a  gentle  rise  of  the  hill  side's  to  the  southward,  we  wound 
around  the  grain-covered  slopes  for  two  hours,  seeing  but  a  few 
stray  deer,  and  a  herd  of  wild  horses ;  and  although  the  traces  of 
Bruin  were  everywhere  visible,  we  were  on  the  point  of  turning  our 
steps  homeward,  when  my  companion  grasped  me  by  the  shoul- 
der, pulled  me  back  to  the  horse's  flanks,  and  whispered,  "  Thar's 
one  !  lie  low,  Captin  !  lie  low  !  "  It  was  a  large  he  bear,  walking 
about  a  little  bowl  of  a  valley  below  us,  in  the  laziest,  hoggish 
manner  possible,  going  from  side  to  side,  rooting  and  tearing  up 
the  earth  by  wagon  loads,  in  his  search  for  ground-rats — his 
course  being  directly  towards  us.  We  dismounted,  hitched 
horses  to  the  lower  branches  of  an  oak,  a  few  yards  in  our  rear, 
divested  ourselves  of  all  but  knives  and  rifles,  taking  the  pre- 
caution to  keep  a  bullet  in  our  mouths,  that  they  might  slip 
easily  down  the  guns  in  case  of  emergency,  then  crossing  to  the 
edge  of  the  hill,  we  awaited  the  grizzly.  He  came  nearly  within 
point-blank  range,  when  changing  his  track,  he  passed  over  to 
the  other  side  of  the  slope.  We  tightened  girths,  mounted  again, 
and  rode  around  to  head  him  off;  when  going  through  the  same 
operations  as  before,  we  ensconced  ourselves  behind  a  giant  tree, 
and  remained  perfectly  silent ;  presently  the  monster  entered  a 
knoll  of  bushes,  within  forty  yards  of  us.  "  Captin,"  said  Dan, 
with  his  mouth  close  to  my  ear,  "  when  I  whistle,  plug  him  in  the 
head."  I  brought  my  rifle  down,  but  at  the  moment  of  spring- 
ing the  trigger,  I  must  confess  feeling  some  inward  quakings, 
from  all  I  had  heard  of  their  ferocity  when  wounded,  and  accord- 
ingly I  intimated  a  request  to  Dan  that  he  would  open  the  ball. 


WE  SHOOT  A  BEAR.  117 

Giving  a  low  whistle,  to  attract  Bruin's  attention,  the  long  barrel 
rested  motionless  for  a  second  against  the  tree,  and  as  the  beast 
raised  his  head  to  listen,  Dan  let  the  hammer  fall.  Maldito ! 
the  cap  only  exploded  ;  but  it  startled  Bruin,  who  leaped  from  the 
shrubbery,  and  took  to  his  heels.  My  turn  came,  and  I  sent  him 
a  bullet  out  of  twenty  to  the  pound ;  wheeling  on  his  haunches, 
he  showed  a  range  of  glittering  jaws,  and  not  seeing  us,  made  off 
again.  We  once  more  got  in  the  saddle,  and  rushed  in  pursuit. 
Dan  had  another  glimpse — snapped  again — I  took  a  long  range, 
and  blazed  away.  Nothing  done.  On  we  galloped  up  the  hills, 
and  skirting  around  the  summits,  we  began  slowly  to  descend 
along  the  brow  of  a  ravine,  in  which  we  anticipated  finding  the 
chase.  We  had  nearly  reached  the  base  without  perceiving  him, 
when  Dan,  who  was  behind,  shouted,  "  Mind  your  eye,  Captin!  " 
I  heard  a  sharp,  rattling  growl,  and  within  thirty  feet  below 
me  was  Bruin,  licking  a  stream  of  blood  flowing  from  his  rump. 
He  raised  up,  snarling  with  rage,  with  huge  paws  and  claws  dis- 
tended ;  and  when  about  making  for  me  I  fired  right  between  the 
shoulders,  and  heard  the  lead  strike  chug.  The  moment  after 
my  horse  plunged,  took  the  bit  in  his  teeth,  and  dashed  across  the 
valley.  After  getting  him  again  under  control,  we  tracked  the 
bear  over  the  crest  of  the  hill  to  a  small  dense  thicket,  where  we 
heard  him  groaning,  and  angrily  snapping  his  jaws.  Dan  swore 
it  would  be  "  rank  pison "  to  venture  after  him,  and  we  both 
thought  him  hit  too  hard  to  crawl  out  alive.  I  was  extremely 
disappointed  in  not  beholding  the  last  of  him,  but  Dan  consoled 
me  by  promising  to  pay  him  a  visit  with  the  dogs  the  following 
day  ;  which  he  did,  but  the  beast  was  half  devoured  by  coyotes 
and  gallinazos,  so  that  it  was  impossible  to  save  the  skin.  It  was 
of  a  verity  the  most  formidable  beast  I  ever  saw  outside  the  bars 


118  CHAPTER    XVII. 


of  a  cage :  covered  with  long  grizzly  hair,  dark  upon  the  spine, 
and  inclining  to  a  yellowish  tinge  along  the  shoulders.  He  must 
have  weighed  fourteen  hundred  pounds. 

At  noon,  my  escort  and  cavallada  having  come  up,  and  all 
ready  for  the  road,  fully  appreciating  the  honest  kindness  of 
the  Murphys,  I  threw  myself  in  the  saddle,  and  departed  for 
Monterey.  We  had  but  four  horses — miserable  beasts  they 
were — one  gave  up  the  ghost  before  the  spur  had  made  a  hole  in 
his  hide,  and  another  was  brutally  murdered  by  my  illustrious  sol- 
dier, who  being  unable,  in  his  stupidity,  to  noose  him,  brought  the 
poor  animal  lifeless  to  the  ground  with  two  ounces  of  buck-shot 
from  the  musket.  Apart  from  these  annoyances,  we  had  the  utmost 
difficulty  in  urging  those  we  rode  into  the  settlement  of  San  Juan. 
On  the  road  I  was  favored  by  a  specimen  of  native  rusticity.  A 
youthful  vacuero  accosted  me,  and  walked  his  cavallo  at  my  side ; 
familiarly  placing  his  hand  on  the  barrel  of  my  rifle,  he  frankly 
opened  a  discourse  by  asking  if  I  had  any  tobacco  ;  not  fancying 
his  impertinence,  and  thinking  I  detected  a  mischievous  expression 
in  his  visage,  I  quickly  replied,  with  my  rifle  at  half-cock,  No 
tengo.  Que  tienes  puesl  he  added,  with  a  sneer.  Dinero, 
I  responded,  chinking  the  coin  in  my  pocket,  upon  which  he 
made  a  jocose  grasp  at  that  receptacle  of  my  treasure,  whereupon 
the  solid  tube  of  the  rifle  came  in  forcible  contact  with  his  nose, 
with  such  a  violent  collision  that  the  claret  spirted  over  the  mane 
of  his  steed.  He  reined  quickly  back — the  water  standing  in  his 
eyes — made  a  demonstration  of  taking  a  whirl  at  me  with  his 
lasso,  but  observing  the  dark  hole  of  my  rifle  staring  him  in  the 
face,  he  contented  himself  by  yelling  punetero !  and  galloped 
away. 

I  found  St.  Johns  a  detestable  spot — half  a  score  dwellings — 


MISSION  OF  SAN  JUAN.  H9 

the  church,  and  long  ranges  of  buildings  of  the  Mission,  more 
than  half  in  ruins,  and  rapidly  crumbling  to  the  ground.  Thirty 
years  before,  this  abode  of  the  Frayles  possessed  twenty  thousand 
head  of  horses,  three  times  that  number  of  horned  cattle,  and  a 
thousand  Indian  serfs  to  till  their  broad  acres.  Meeting  the 
intelligent  priests  who  had  officiated  in  Santa  Clara,  they  directed 
me  to  a  house  where  a  lodging  was  procurable.  Crossing  the 
deserted  plaza,  I  entered  a  large  ill-constructed  adobie  dwelling, 
where  I  was  received  by  a  filthy  young  Gascon,  who  appeared  to 
be  mayor  domo,  in  the  midst  of  a  houseful  of  girls  and  women. 
I  lost  no  time  in  doing  the  amiable  to  my  agreeable  hostesses,  who 
in  turn  prepared  a  supper  of  dirty  junks  of  beef,  and  still  worse 
tortillas.  Bifstek  a  la  god  dem  —  fingers  before  forks  —  comme 
Vusage,  en  Californie,  said  the  Frenchman,  as  he  vigorously  com- 
menced operations.  But  the  supper  was  so  unpalatable  and 
unclean  a  meal,  that  hungry  as  I  was,  I  fain  amused  myself  the 
while,  puffing  cigarillos,  catching  fleas,  and  drinking  execrably 
sour  country  wine.  The  feast  was  barely  ended,  when  a  loud 
screeching,  and  violent  commotion  among  the  women  attracted 
attention  ;  and  presently  there  came  running  towards  me  an  old 
beldame  with,  Dios  de  mi  alma,  es  rd  medico  ? — the  Lord  pre- 
serve us,  are  you  a  doctor.  Si  !  si  !  amiga  !  Medico  y  drujano 
bueno — Yes,  Jack  of  all  trades — I  replied,  deeming  it  a  fair 
chance  of  exhibiting  a  little  irresponsible  empirical  practice. 
Upon  inquiring  the  necessity  for  my  professional  abilities  being 
called  into  play,  I  learned  that  the  entire  household  had  been 
exerting  themselves  the  day  and  night  previous  dancing  at  a 
fandango,  and  that  one  of  the  jovencitas  was  atacked  with  fits, 
consequent  upon  her  exertions.  The  poor  girl  was  lying  on  the 


120  CHAPTER  XVII. 


the  tiled  floor,  her  head  propped  up  by  pillows,  with  loose 
dishevelled  dress,  and  rich  masses  of  dark  hair  strewn  over  her 
bosom  and  shoulders,  like  serpents  in  Eden.  She  was  moaning 
piteously  between  the  convulsions,  and  one  old  Hecate  was  striving 
to  pry  her  mouth  open  with  an  iron  spoon,  whilst  another  was 
slapping  her  hands  and  yelling  all  the  while,  Crescencia  !  Cres- 
cencia  !  Kneeling  beside  the  pretty  suffering  patient,  and  finding 
her  pulse  throbbing  like  a  steam-engine,  in  my  ignorance  I 
advised  bleeding ;  but  this  was  out  of  the  question,  as  nothing 
sharper  than  a  hatchet,  jack-knife,  or  old  steel-pen,  was  to  be 
had  in  the  place  ;  consequently,  all  left  to  be  done  was  the  appli- 
cation of  hot  vinegar  and  blankets.  While  superintending  this 
process,  and  bathing  her  forehead,  she  went  off  again  into 
spasms,  clasped  her  arms  around  me,  and  for  the  space  of  five 
minutes  I  was  favored  with  a  succession  of  the  warmest  em- 
braces ;  and,  although  it  may  not  be  generally  credited,  yet 
I'll  venture  to  assert,  that  one  may  be  seldom  placed  in  a  more 
trying  situation,  even  if  a  charming  girl  has  fits.  Crescendo, 
became  calmer  after  this  trifling  ebullition,  and  was  put  to  bed 
I  was  anxious  to  sit  up  with  the  party  during  the  night, 
but  the  vieja  declined  my  services,  and  I  retired  to  another 
dormitory,  where  I  slept  tolerably  well  on  a  table,  wrapped 
in  a  blanket,  with  holsters  for  pillow.  Arising  at  daybreak, 
I  was  concerned  to  find  my  horses  had  disappeared  from  the 
corral,  which  I  had  reason  to  attribute  to  the  kind  offices  of 
the  Gascon.  However,  I  paid  him  a  dollar  to  have  them 
caught,  and  upon  bidding  adios  I  gave  him  a  souvenir  from  the 
thick  lash  of  my  riding-whip,  which  was  no  doubt  serviceable  to 
other  travellers  who  have  succeeded  me. 

We  reached  the  Salinas   Plains   at  noon  ;    half  way  across 


RETURN  TO  MONTEREY.  121 

my  horse  dropped  with  me  into  a  ditch,  so  I  scrambled  out, 
packed  saddle  and  duds  on  my  own  back,  gained  the  molino, 
procured  a  Spanish  brute  from  the  proprietor  thereof,  and  the 
same  night  arrived  in  Monterey.  I  regret  to  add,  this  was  my 
last  interview  with  Anderson — he  was  assassinated  a  few  months 
later,  by  a  person  named  Callagan. 
6 


CHAPTER    XVIII. 

THE  latter  part  of  July  found  the  frigate  again  moored  off 
Yerbabuena,  in  the  waters  of  San  Francisco.  A  number  of  us 
had  long  anticipated  the  pleasure  of  a  trip  to  the  northward ;  and 
a  fine  prize  schooner,  the  Julia,  being  unemployed,  she  was  ac- 
cordingly madp  ready,  and,  early  one  morning,  our  party,  with  a 
few  trifling  kits,  were  all  snugly  stowed  away  on  board.  With  the 
broad  pennant  fluttering  at  the  main,  and  all  sails  spread,  we  soon 
lost  sight  of  the  anchorage.  The  Julia's  cabin  had  four  berths  suffi- 
ciently capacious  for  grown  people,  and  two  others,  which  were,  in 
reality,  intended  for  minors,  or  any  adult  under  three  feet  in 
length ;  a  settee  ran  crosswise,  and  the  intermediate  space  filled  in 
with  a  cozy  table.  Our  mess  amounted  to  seven,  and  the  caterer 
had  been  careful  to  provide  servants  and  cooks,  cold  hams  and 
tongues,  potted  oysters  and  biscuits,  silver-topped  bottles  of  ale 
and  stout,  cases  of  pale  sherry,  bundles  of  havannas,  and  what 
with  a  haunch  or  two  of  venison,  and  lots  of  edibles,  indiscrim- 
ately  packed  in  huge  baskets,  we  counted  upon  a  sufficiency  of 
viveres  to  allay  thirst  and  famine  for  a  week  to  come.  Indeed, 
there's  nothing  answers  so  well  as  a  profusion  of  "  provender,"  to 
promote  good  humor  and  agreeable  conversation.  Major  Dalgetty 
understood  this  practically  and  philosophically.  Guitars,  pretty 
spirituelle  women,  babbling  brooks  and  shady  lawns,  with  a  bowl 


WATERS  OF  SAN  FRANCISCO.  123 

of  chicken  salad,  do  very  well  when  one  goes  a  picknicking  in 
an  omnibus,  or  canal  boat ;  but  when  it  is  necessary  to  rough  it 
a  bit  in  open  air  and  unknown  regions,  we  require  something  more 
substantial. 

Passing  through  the  inner  straits,  above  Angel  Island,  we  enter- 
ed the  bay  of  San  Pablo,  or  Sinoma,  and,  with  a  pleasant  breeze, 
steered  for  the  upper  shores.  It  is  a  vast,  circular  sheet  of  water, 
twelve  miles  in  diameter,  fenced  in  from  the  ocean,  on  one  side, 
by  a  rim  of  broken  hills,  closely  abutting  upon  the  bay ;  while  to 
the  north  and  east,  the  land  trends  easily  away,  in  less  abrupt  ele- 
vations, into  the  interior,  leaving  a  base  of  wide,  fertile  plains  and 
valleys,  verging  upon  the  shores. 

A  noble  ship  channel  takes  the  direction  of  the  eastern  coast, 
leading  into  the  straits  of  Carquinez,  an  opening  quite  similar  to 
the  outer  passage  from  the  sea.  Our  course  lay  in  an  opposite 
point,  and,  turning  to  the  left,  we  sailed  over  shallower  depths, 
until  late  in  the  afternoon,  when,  finding  there  was  no  water  to 
spare  betwixt  the  keel  and  the  bottom,  we  dropt  anchor,  two 
miles  from  the  land.  The  barge  was  presently  manned,  and 
leaving  our  butler,  Mr.  Bill  Moulden,  to  exercise  his  care  and 
corkscrew  over  the  comestibles,  we  rowed  to  the  entrance  of  a 
creek,  where,  after  winding  about  in  the  serpentine  tracks  of  an 
inlet  for,  at  the  least,  ten  miles,  we  at  last  jumped  on  shore  at  the 
ewbarcadera  of  Sinoma.  The  gentleman  to  whom  we  were  bound, 
not  being  apprised  of  our  coming,  but  two  horses  were  to  be  pro- 
cured, and  the  rest  of  us  trudged  along  on  foot.  The  road  was 
perfectly  level,  walking  good,  and,  with  sparkling  stars  for  lanterns, 
in  an  hour  we  found  ourselves  at  the  residence  of  General  Vallejo, 
were  ushered  through  a  spacious  porte  cocker ,  into  a  large  sala, 
and  graciously  received  by  the  lady  of  the  mansion,  whose  hus- 


124  CHAPTER  XVIII. 


band  chanced  to  be  absent  on  important  business.  It  may  be  as 
well  to  state  bere,  tbat  Vallejo  bad  been  tbe  most  important  per- 
sonage in  Upper  California,  botb  from  family  influence,  intelli- 
gence and  wealth.  On  tbe  commencement  of  tbe  war,  notwith- 
standing the  annoyance  he  had  experienced  from  the  Bear  party, 
he  espoused  the  cause  of  the  United  States ;  and,  being  blessed 
with  a  clear  head  and  much  discernment,  saw  at  a  glance  the 
benefit  derivable  for  California  by  a  connection  with  a  staunch  Re- 
public, in  preference  to  letting  the  territory  languish  under  the  mis- 
rule of  Mexico,  or,  perhaps,  at  some  future  period,  to  maintain  the 
needy  soldiery  of  a  foreign  monarchy.  I  believe  myself  within 
the  mark,  in  estimating  the  General's  landed  property  at  one  hun- 
dred square  leagues,  embracing  much  of  the  best  agricultural  and 
grazing  districts  in  the  country,  with  many  of  the  most  eligible 
sites  for  commercial  ports  on  the  waters  of  San  Francisco.  The 
little  Pueblo  of  Sinoma  stands  with  its  back  resting  against  a  ridge 
of  high  hills,  shutting  in,  on  one  side,  a  lovely  plain,  near  fifty 
miles  in  extent,  and  presenting  much  the  same  pleasing  aspect  of 
golden  lakes  of  wild  oats  and  luxuriant  oaks,  as  grace  the  vale 
of  Santa  Clara.  The  principal  dwellings  and  barracks  form  three 
sections  of  a  square — all,  except  one  edifice,  owned  and  oc- 
cupied by  the  relations  and  family  of  our  absent  host.  His  resi- 
dence was  the  largest — as  usual,  built  of  adobies — two  hundred  feet 
long,  of  two  stories,  having  a  tier  of  balconies  above.  The  apart- 
ments we  occupied  below  were  well  furnished,  walls  papered, 
books  and  cases,  prints  and  mirrors  in  profusion.  We  were  some- 
what surprised,  not  believing  so  much  refinement,  in  that  which  is 
termed  modern  civilization,  existed  in  the  territory.  The  Sefiora 
herself,  assisted  bjT  a  well-behaved  youth,  did  the  honors  of  the 
gupper  table  ;  and  after  we  had  made  a  hearty  meal,  she  retired 


VILLAGE  OF  SINOMA.  125 

and  left  us  to  the  enjoyment  of  chateau  rnargaux  and  cigars. 
During  supper  we  were  complimented  by  a  serenade,  sung  by  a 
number  of  Russians  and  Germans,  whose  harmonious  chorus,  and 
songs  of  "  Faderland,"  almost  carried  us  away  to  the  Rhine.  We 
sought  the  music  room,  shortly  after,  where  the  little  daughters 
of  our  entertainers  were  performing  on  the  piano.  They  had  been 
properly  instructed,  and  performed  remarkably  well ;  besides, 
they  were  pretty,  becomingly  attired,  and,  what  is  still  more  com- 
mendable, exceedingly  well  bred.  Towards  midnight  we  said 
luenas  noc/ies,  and  sought  our  beds,  where,  if  we  had  been  pre- 
viously a  littlo  astonished  to  find  ourselves  surrounded  with  ele- 
gance, we  soon  had  reason  to  return  to  realities,  by  the  aid  of  the 
pincer-like  stings  of  the  curse  of  the  country,  pulgas,  who,  find- 
Ing  us  tender  and  palatable,  hopped  about  us  for  the  remainder  of 
the  night.  To  evade  their  sharp  bites,  I  tried  to  smoke  myself 
insensible,  and  would  no  doubt  have  succeeded  in  deluding  myself 
into  slumber,  had  not  my  repose  been  again  interrupted  by  a  loud 
altercation  between  the  Admiral's  aid-de-cruiip  and  Captain  Sway- 
back,  of  the  dragoons,  who  chanced  to  be  billetted  together. 
The  former,  through  abstraction,  had  swathed  himself,  like  to  an 
Egyptian  mummy,  in  all  the  clothes,  and  persisted  in  occupying 
the  centre  of  the  bed ;  moreover,  hinting  a  disinclination  to  pass 
the  night  with  any  gentleman  perfumed  with  tobacco.  Upon  this, 
the  captain  became  jocosely  indignant ;  and  although  admitting 
that,  in  his  varied  hardships  and  travels,  he  had  been  necessitated 
to  bivouac  many  a  time  under  worse  auspices,  yet  he  still  had  a 
mortal  antipathy  to  share  his  pillow  with  a  man ;  so,  he  betook 
himself  to  the  floor,  where,  with  blanket,  an  inverted  chair  for 
pillow,  and  a  brilliant  cigar  illumining  either  corner  of  his  mouth, 
\Q  rendered  the  room  dense  with  smoke  until  daylight. 


126  CHAPTER  XVIII. 


Early  on  the  morrow  we  took  a  pleasant  ramble  about  the  vil- 
lage, and  were  individually  hugged  by  a  tame  grizzly  cub,  who 
was  altogether  more  ardent  in  his  affectionate  embraces  than  our 
recent  acquaintance  required — thence  to  breakfast  on  the  accus- 
tomed olla  podrida,  which  is  a  stereotyped  mess  everywhere  with 
Spaniards  and  their  descendants — though  at  times  differently 
prepared — here  it  was  flanked  by  frijoles.  The  meal  finished, 
horses  were  standing,  ready  caparisoned,  at  the  door,  and  whilst 
my  friends  amused  themselves  to  their  fancy,  I  seized  a  rifle,  and 
in  company  with  a  young  American,  started  on  a  hunt.  We  had 
ridden  a  league  over  the  valley,  when  we  perceived  a  small  herd 
of  antelopes ;  but  they  descried  us,  too,  a  long  way  off,  and  not 
without  much  trouble  and  hard  riding,  did  I  succeed  in  striking 
one  with  a  bullet,  flying,  as  I  may  say ;  for  never  before  had  I 
beheld  such  nimble  heels.  Another  was  wounded,  also,  but,  with 
his  companions,  reached  the  highlands  and  escaped.  The  first 
had  his  fore  leg  nearly  severed  from  his  shoulder,  but,  notwith- 
standing it  traversed  around  in  his  flight  like  a  wheel,  he  still 
ran  good  four  leagues  before  we  approached  near  enough  to  kill 
him.  We  soon  packed  the  meat  on  a  horse,  which  is  done  by 
removing  the  entrails,  breaking  the  back  bone,  and  doubling  the 
animal,  horns  and  tail ;  then  it  is  secured  to  the  saddle.  Two 
may  be  carried  this  way ;  but  wo  to  the  hunter,  if  the  sharp,  hard 
hoofs  happen  to  prick  his  horse,  the  probability  being  that  the 
rider  will  describe  a  summerset.  Highly  pleased  with  the  ex- 
ploit, we  sent  our  prize  to  the  embarcadera.  The  antelope  abounds 
in  great  numbers  in  the  vicinity  of  Sinoma.  They  pass  more 
evenly  over  the  ground  than  deer ;  are  far  swifter,  and  extremely 
shy.  We  all  reassembled  at  the  Puebla  in  good  time  and  condi- 
tion for  dinner,  which  passed  pleasantly,  and  then  taking  leave  of 


WE  VISIT  BENECIA.  127 

our  handsome,  hospitable  hostess,  who  expressed  much  regret  at 
the  absence  of  Don  Guadalupe,  her  husband,  we  mounted  fresh 
horses  and  turned  our  backs  on  the  little  village  of  Sinoma,  all 
highly  pleased  with  the  visit.  Embarking  again  at  the  head  of  the 
creek,  with  a  strong  favoring  tide,  we  reached  our  floating  domi- 
cil  at  dark.  Fatigue  of  the  day  made  heavy  eyelids,  and  supper 
was  barely  despatched,  before  sleep  shrouded  us  in  the  land  of 
dreams. 

Weighing  at  sunrise  the  next  day,  with  light  winds,  and 
charming  weather,  we  bore  away  to  the  Carquinez  Straits.  Thia 
passage  lies  on  the  eastern  face  of  San  Pablo;  it  may  be  a  mile 
and  a  half  wide,  and  we  found  a  broad  ship  channel,  ranging  from 
twelve  to  five  fathoms  soundings,  all  the  way  to  the  head  of  the 
straits,  where  we  anchored  the  Julia,  in  twenty-fiv3  feet  water, 
within  a  bound  of  the  bank.  Our  position  was  at  the  site  of  an 
embryo  city,  called  Benecia.  The  selection  was  made  by  Doctor 
Semple,  and  the  land  owned  by  Vallejo,  in  compliment  to  whose 
wife  the  place  was  named.  In  point  of  natural  advantages,  I 
know  of  no  more  eligible  situation :  the  country  rises  in  gentle 
sweeping  undulations  for  some  miles,  terminating  quite  around  by 
a  lofty  amphitheatre  of  hills ;  the  climate  is  equable  and  salu- 
brious, with  a  rich  and  fertile  soil,  and  plenty  of  timber,  and  it  is 
said  coal  of  a  superior  quality  exists  in  the  vicinity.  At  the  time 
of  our  visit  a  mania  was  raging  in  California  about  lands,  and 
lots,  and  although  nothing  had  been  attempted  in  Benecia, 
except  a  very  pretty  plan  on  paper,  and  three  miserable  little 
board  sheds,  with  a  flat  boat  to  ferry  travellers  across  the  straits ; 
yet  from  being  the  highest  navigable  point,  where  large  vessels 
can  conveniently  discharge  or  load  from  the  niaiu  rivers  of  the 
San  Francisco,  that  pour  into  the  shoal  Bay  of  Sossun,  we 


128  CHAPTER  XVIII. 


predicted  that  eventually  Yerbabuena  might  play  a  relative 
Sandy  Hook  to  a  New  York ;  then,  nothing  was  known  of  the  El 
Dorado  fifty  miles  above  :  had  we  been  aware  of  it  we  might  have 
taken  the  little .  city  off  the  Doctor's  hands ;  for  now,  with  its 
manifest  advantages,  and  enormous  influx  of  emigration  flowing 
towards  California,  there  can  be  no  bounds  placed  upon  its 
progress. 

We  made  a  hunting  trio  during  the  day,  crossed  to  the  oppo- 
site shore,  but  not  being  acquainted  with  the  haunts  of  game,  and 
being  a  little  timid  about  the  prospect  of  meeting  a  grizzly,  we 
did  not  venture  into  the  interior ;  and  after  a  long  and  arduous 
tramp  over  the  steep  spurs  of  heights  that  entrenched  boldly 
upon  the  straits,  we  saw  no  opportunity  for  firing  our  rifles,  being 
only  repaid  by  a  treat  of  delicious  melons  found  at  an  isolated 
rancho. 

At  nine  the  following  morning  we  bid  adieu  to  Benecia,  with 
the  credit  of  having  been  the  largest  vessel,  and  only  one  of  war, 
that  had  ever  floated  so  far  on  the  broad  bosom  of  San  Francisco. 
With  this  plume  in  our  castors  we  were  obliged  to  be  content,  as 
the  Admiral  could  not  spare  tune  to  explore  further.  With  an 
ebb  tide,  and  prevalent  west  wind,  we  tacked  boldly  from  side  to 
side ;  before  noon  had  cleared  the  straits,  and  entering  a  narrow 
channel  that  borders  on  the  Tulares  Valley,  we  ran  between  Mares 
Island  and  the  main,  and  again  came  to  anchor.  Here  we 
tarried  all  day,  in  hopes  of  filling  the  Julia  with  elk ;  but  although 
the  low  banks  and  extensive  fields  of  reeds  are  famed  as  the 
resort  of  immense  bands,  yet,  for  a  wonder,  there  was  not  a  four- 
legged  animal  to  be  seen.  Fowling-pieces,  however,  came  into 
requisition,  and  we  filled  our  bags  with  mallard,  curlew,  and 
plover ;  these  tit  bits  came  in  seasonably,  for  the  antelope,  which 


RETURN  OF  THE  JULIA  129 

by  the  way  proved  most  excellent,  was  literally  on  his  last 
leg.  When  the  ebb  tide  again  made,  at  night,  we  lifted  the 
anchor  once  more,  homeward  bound,  and  the  next  afternoon  were 
again  comfortably  kicking  heels  under  the  mess  mahogany  of  the 
frigate. 


CHAPTER    XIX. 

ON  the  26th  of  July,  1847,  the  Columbus,  seventy-four,  bear- 
ing the  pennant  of  Commodore  Biddle,  sailed  from  San  Francisco 
for  the  United  States,  leaving  the  flag  of  the  Commander-in- 
Chief,  flying  on  board  the  razee  Independence.  By  this  tune 
most  of  the  ships  composing  the  squadron  had  either  rendezvouzed 
in  Monterey  or  Yerbabuena.  Central  and  Upper  California 
had  become  perfectly  tranquil,  with  the  exception  of  some  trifling 
difficulties  which  had  arisen  in  San  Diego,  between  the  New 
York  Volunteers  and  the  natives.  But  these  were  speedily 
settled ;  and  a  sufficient  force  being  now  ready  for  service,  the 
preparations,  which  had  already  been  too  long  delayed,  were 
actively  begun  for  the  purpose  of  attacking  the  Mexican  coast. 
The  crews  of  the  different  vessels  were  constantly  exercised  in 
companies  and  battalions  for  service  on  land :  they  were  taught  to 
march  and  counter-march,  in  line,  platoons,  and  column ;  to 
throw  themselves  into  squares ;  were  thoroughly  instructed  hi  the 
manual  drill ;  and  although  they  occasionally  knocked  then*  broad- 
brimmed  tarpaulins  off  at  "  Shoulder  arms,"  yet  upon  the  whole 
they  did  extremely  well  for  sailors,  and  on  the  weekly  field-days 
on  shore,  went  through  the  evolutions  in  a  very  creditable 
manner. 

Early  in  September  we  returned  to  Monterey.     The  bright 


THE  REVEREND  ALCALDE. 


green  verdure  that  clothed  the  hill  sides,  the  beautiful  mantle  of 
green  and  flowers  of  spring,  had  long  since  paled  beneath  the 
blaze  of  summer.  No  rain  had  fallen  ;  the  clear  rills  that 
murmured  in  every  gully  were  absorbed  by  the  parched  earth. 
The  broad  lagoons  near  the  beach  were  rapidly  receding,  and 
mud  had  been  converted  into  dust.  And  although  vandals  were 
making  the  axe  resound  in  murderous  blows  upon  the  picturesque 
bolls  of  fine  trees  that  decked  the  slopes,  there  was  still  sufficient 
delight  for  the  eye  to  rest  upon  in  the  lovely  undulating  landscape 
encircling  the  shores  of  the  bay. 

Monterey  was  rapidly  increasing,  and  houses  of  a  more  sub- 
stantial build  than  the  paper-like  structures  of  Yerbabuena, 
were  rising  in  the  streets.  The  fort  on  the  hill  was  nearly  com- 
pleted, mounting  a  numerous  battery  of  long  twenty-fours  ;  and 
in  the  rear  were  stone  magazines,  barracks,  and  quarters  ;  so  that 
the  natives,  if  they  entertained  doubts  before,  were  now  con- 
vinced that  their  invaders  had  resolved  to  remain.  A  salutary 
system  of  police  had  also  been  established  in  the  town  —  the 
Reverend  Alcalde  was  a  terror  to  evil  doers.  Woe  betide  the 
pockets  of  those  who  slaughtered  cattle  at  their  door-steps,  or  the 
rollicking  gentry  vaulting  at  full  speed  through  the  streets,  or 
drunken  Indians,  or  quiet  persons  in  back  rooms,  amusing  them- 
selves at  monte  —  for  down  came  that  ivory-headed  cane  —  "  Alcalde 
de  Monterey  "  —  like  a  talisman  ;  and  with  a  pleasant  smile  he 
would  sweep  the  white  and  yellow  dross  into  his  capacious 
pockets.  Others  were  mulcted  in  damages,  or  made  to  quarry 
Btone  for  the  school-house  ;  but,  whether  native  or  foreigner,  the 
rod  fell  impartially  on  their  pockets,  and  all,  more  or  less,  con- 
tributed towards  the  new  Californian  college.  These  measures 
were  not  relished  at  first  by  the  natives,  but  in  the  end  they  dis- 


132  CHAPTER  XIX. 


cerned  the  wisdom  of  a  prompt  and  just  administration  of  the 
laws,  and  became  devoted  admirers  of  the  indefatigable  Alcalde. 

About  this  time  a  more  serious  event  occurred.  Two  Indians 
were  charged  with  the  murder  of  a  foreigner ;  a  woman,  who 
was  their  accomplice,  betrayed  them  ;  they  were  tried  by 
jury,  selected  equally  from  natives  and  strangers ;  the  crime 
was  clearly  and  indubitably  proved — the  offenders  were  con- 
demned to  be  hung.  The  punishment  was  unknown  in  Cali- 
fornia, and  a  large  concourse  of  persons  assembled  around  the 
gallows,  which  was  erected  within  sight  of  the  town.  Attended 
by  two  priests,  the  criminals,  who  seemed  perfectly  indifferent  to 
their  fate — in  fact  many  thought  rather  pleased  at  being  the 
observed  of  all  observers — were  placed  beneath  the  beam,  and  the 
cords  finally  adjusted  by  the  pious  fathers.  At  the  signal,  down 
came  the  platform,  and  with  it  the  murderers  ;  but,  by  some  unac- 
countable fatality,  both  knots  slipped,  and  with  the  exception  of 
being  a  little  "  choky  "  in  the  face,  they  sustained  no  injury.  In 
a  moment  one  of  the  priests  mounted  a  horse,  and  galloped  to  the 
Governor's,  urging  a  reprieve  on  the  plea  of  a  special  dispen- 
sation of  Providence — that  the  criminals  had  been  hung  once, 
and  were  consequently  entitled  to  pardon.  The  philanthropic 
padre  might  better  have  saved  his  ride  and  breath,  for  Colonel 
Mason  informed  him,  thai  in  case  these  villains  were  not  executed, 
Providence  might  interfere  with  the  ropes  for  ever  after,  and 
moreover  the  sentence  was  to  hang  them  until  dead.  Meanwhile 
the  sheriff  on  the  ground  had  replaced  the  halters  with  unslip- 
pable  hitches,  as  he  observed  that  they  would  receive  "  particular 
fits ;"  and  aoon  after  they  were  properly  worked  off,  and  swung, 
dangling,  lifeless  figures^  within  their  timber  frame.  This  event 
generated  a  feeling  of  bitter  hostility  on  the  part  of  the  Catholic 


HANGING  INDIANS.  133 

clergy  towards  the  local  government,  although  generally  conceded 
by  the  Catholics  themselves  to  be  entirely  uncalled  for  and  unrea- 
sonable. 

On  Saturday  evenings,  crowds  of  these  degraded  Indians,  of 
both  sexes,  after  laboring  during  the  week,  and  feeding  on  locusts 
or  grasshoppers,  were  accustomed  to  congregate  on  the  outskirts 
of  the  town,  where,  with  gaming  and  arguadiente,  they  were 
enabled  to  remain  torpid  all  the  following  day.  Their  favorite 
amusement  was  a  game  called  escondido — hide  and  seek — played 
with  little  sticks ;  and  their  skill  was  exerted  by  trying  to  discover  in 
whose  hands  they  were :  seating  themselves  on  the  ground,  around 
a  huge  blazing  fire,  separate  parties  were  ranged  on  opposite  sides ; 
then  beginning  a  low,  wild  chaunt,  moving  their  bodies  to  and  fro, 
groping  with  their  hands  within  the  serapas  before  them,  until  the 
perspiration  starts  in  streams  down  their  naked  sides,  after  a 
strange  succession  of  deep,  harsh,  gutteral  grunts  and  aspirations, 
they  suddenly  terminate  their  exertions  by  giving  a  sharp  yell,  and 
pointing  to  one  of  the  opposite  party,  who,  if  rightly  detected, 
pays  forfeit.  When  one  set  of  players  becomes  exhausted,  others 
supply  their  places,  and  thus  they  keep  it  up  the  live-long  night. 

Among  the  Californians  an  agreeable  pastime,  much  in  vogue, 
is  the  mcrendar — Anglice,  pic-nic.  They  are  usually  given 
on  the  patron  saint's  day  of  some  favorite  senora  or  seiiorita,  by 
their  admirers.  A  secluded,  pleasant  spot  is  selected  a  few  miles 
away  from  the  presidio,  where  provisions,  wine  and  music  are  col- 
lected beforehand  ;  then  each  cavalier,  with  arm  thrown  affection- 
ately around  his  sweetheart,  on  the  saddle  before  him,  seeks  the 
rendezvous.  Guitars  and  choral  accompaniments  soon  are  heard, 
and  the  mcrenda  begins,  and  is  kept  up  with  the  greatest  possible 
fun  and  spirit:  dancing,  frolicking,  drinking  and  love-making. 


134  CHAPTER    XIX. 


There  are  two  or  three  singular  dances  of  the  country :  one,  called 
the  Son,  where  a  gentleman  commences,  by  going  through  a  solo 
part,  to  quick,  rattling  music,  then  waving  a  handkerchief  to  a 
damsel,  who  either  pays  the  same  compliment  to  another  favored 
swain,  or  merely  goes  through  a  few  steps,  without  relieving  the 
first  comer,  who,  in  turn,  is  obliged  to  continue  the  performance 
until  a  lady  takes  pity  for  him.  It  not  unfrequently  happens, 
that  when  a  particularly  graceful  girl  is  on  the  floor,  making  her 
little  feet  rapidly  pat  the  ground,  like  castanets,  to  the  inspiriting 
music,  that  some  enthusiastic  novio  will  place  his  sombrero  on 
her  head,  which  can  never  be  reclaimed  without  a  handsome 
present  in  exchange.  But,  Heaven  help  us !  the  pranks  and  mis- 
chief indulged  in  on  the  return  home ;  the  tricks  and  tumbles, 
laughter  and  merriment;  even  the  horses  appear  to  enter  into 
the  play,  and  when  a  cluster  of  gay  lads  and  lassies  have  jostled 
one  another  from  the  saddles,  the  waggish,  animals,  fully  appre- 
ciating the  joke,  stop  of  their  own  accord.  •  The  last  affair  of  this 
kind  I  attended,  was  given  by  the  best-hearted  little  fellow  in  the 
territory  ;  and  I  am  prepared  to  prove  it — Senor  Verde — he  was 
an  universal  favorite,  as  well  with  old  as  young ;  for  he  was  at 
different  times  taking  a  short  pasear  on  every  horse,  laughing  with 
the  madres,  and  kissing  the  shy  don9ellas — valgame  dios — but  I 
had  work  in  getting  him  into  Monterey  that  night,  for  my  cavallo 
carried  weight — besides  a  big  overgrown  dame  and  myself,  Verde 
hung  on  to  the  tail. 

We  were  many  weeks  in  Monterey,  and  I  passed  a  large  portion 
of  leisure  tune  either  hunting  with  Juaquinito,  or  chatting  and 
smoking  during  the  afternoons  with  our  excellent  friends,  the 
army  men,  at  the  Fort.  But  at  last  we  began  to  tire  of  foggy 
mornings,  damp  nights,  tough  beef,  lounging  under  the  Consul's 


SAILOR  SOLDIERS.  135 

piazza,  sweltering  dust,  catching  fleas,  playing  monte,  and  fandan- 
gos at  Carmelo.  The  time  was  drawing  near  for  our  departure. 
The  ships  were  provisioned  and  ready  for  service.  Jack  had 
become  quite  a  soldier,  and  we  consoled  ourselves  with  the  pros- 
pective excitement  of  a  descent  upon  the  Mexican  coast. 


CHAPTER    XX. 

WE  sailed  from  Monterey  on  the  16th  of  October — rounded 
Point  Piilos,  and,  bidding  a  final  adieu  to  Upper  California,  bore 
away  to  the  southward.  On  the  25th,  we  found  ourselves  near 
Cape  San  Lucas,  where,  for  three  blessed  days,  we  lay  becalmed, 
all  hands  existing,  as  it  were,  in  a  warm  bath  of  their  own  providing. 
The  morning  of  the  fourth,  there  came  a  breeze,  and  with  it,  un- 
der a  cloud  of  canvas,  one  of  our  frigates,  with  the  intelligence 
that  she  had  bombarded  Guaymas,  and  blown  up  the  fortifications. 
No  resistance  had  been  made,  and  a  corvette  was  left  to  guard  a 
deserted  town.  It  was  certainly  a  severe_  instance  of  patriotism, 
where  the  Mexicans  left  their  homes  and  property,  choosing  a 
precarious  existence  among  the  sterile  mountains,  rather  than  cry 
peccavi!  to  the  Yankee  banner. 

Anchoring  at  San  Jose,  we  learned  that  trouble  was  brewing  on 
the  Peninsula,  and  that  some  hundreds  of  men  in  arms  were  as- 
sembled at  Todos  Santos,  a  place  on  the  seaside  of  Lower  Califor- 
nia, fifty  miles  distant.  Nothing,  certainly,  was  more  preposter- 
ous than  the  forgetful  policy  of  our  Government,  in  expecting  to 
hold  two  thousand  miles  of  coast  with  a  handful  of  men.  The 
principal  points  on  the  Peninsula  had  already  been  occupied  tran- 
siently by  our  forces ;  but  notwithstanding  proclamations  had  been 
issued,  declaring  the  "  Californias  unalterably "  annexed  to  the 


WE  VISIT  ALCALDES.  137 

United  States,  and  that  very  many  of  the  natives  had  warmly 
espoused  our  protection ;  yet  the  very  moment  the  ships  or  force 
were  withdrawn  from  a  place,  the  disaffected  patriots — and  they 
were  patriots — immediately  sprang  up,  issued  pronunciamentos, 
threatened  foreign  residents,  and  their  own  countrymen,  who  had 
befriended  the  invaders.  As  a  consequence,  the  whole  lower 
portion  of  the  territory  and  the  Peninsula  were  kept  in  a  constant 
state  of  excitement  and  inquietude.  JN'or  could  we  have  reasona- 
bly expected  aught  else,  without  a  respectable  force  to  overawo 
them. 

The  second  evening  after  our  arrival,  a  small  mounted  party, 
of  thirty  muskets,  from  the  flag  ship,  was  ordered  into  the  interior, 
to  disperse  the  insurrectionists  at  Todos  Santos.  They  had  not 
been  absent  half  a  dozen  hours,  when  a  report  was  circulated,  that 
a  body  of  the  enemy  were  lying  in  ambuscade  on  the  route,  to 
attack  them.  A  great  commotion  ensued,  and  I  was  selected  to 
proceed  to  the  Mission  and  inquire  into  the  truth  of  the  rumor. 
Attended  by  our  marine  postmaster  Richie,  we  procured  horses 
on  the  beach,  and  after  sliding  over  loose  stones,  winding  around 
precipices,  until  quite  dizzy  at  the  narrow  bridle  paths,  running 
full  as  much  risk  in  losing  our  eyes  by  thorns  of  aloe  or  cactus, 
as  our  necks,  in  the  darkness,  by  the  precarious  foothold  of  the 
beasts,  we  reached  San  Jose  at  midnight,  and  presented  ourselves 
before  the  alcaldes.  We  found  these  worthies  and  their  wives 
deeply  immersed  in  monte  and  cigarillos.  They  were  ignorant,  as 
alcaldes  universally  are,  of  any  treasonable  rumors  ;  but,  on  citing 
an  old  Indian  woman  and  her  son,  who  were  the  divining  magi- 
cians of  the  place,  we  learned  that,  in  truth,  a  number  of  evil- 
minded  persons  had  been  in  town,  tampering  with  those  more 
peaceably  disposed,  in  hopes  of  raising  a  sufficient  force  to  cut 


138  CHAPTER  XX. 


our  little  band  to  pieces.  Upon  concluding  our  inquisitorial  pro- 
ceedings, we  returned  to  the  ship.  The  next  morning,  news  was 
brought  from  La  Paz,  a  post  some  distance  up  the  Gulf,  and 
recently  occupied  by  a  company  of  the  New  York  regiment  under 
Lt.  Col.  Burton,  that  the  disaffection  had  extended  in  every 
direction,  and  the  Mexicans  were  resolved  to  make  a  last  struggle 
for  lost  ground  on  the  Peninsula.  The  same  night  we  received 
more  violente  extraor dinar ios — break-neck  expresses  —  stating 
that  the  little  town  near  us  was  about  to  be  invaded  by  the  insur- 
gents. There  was  so  much  truth  in  this,  that  a  number  of  officers 
from  the  ships  took  to  the  road,  "  accoutred  as  they  were,"  and  a 
very  flimsy  toilet  some  of  them  appeared  in,  on  their  five  mile 
flight  to  the  watering  beach.  Boats  were  armed,  and  companies 
detailed  for  service ;  but  another  violent  extraordinary  arrived, 
and  for  the  time  we  remained  passive.  The  next  evening,  a  de- 
tachment of  five-and-twenty  marines  left  the  ship  for  shore.  We 
were  a  long  time  disembarking,  as  the  surf  was  breaking  ten  feet 
high  upon  the  open  beach.  Skirting  along  thickets  around  the 
town,  we  marched  up  a  valley,  through  a  deep  sandy  road,  for 
more  than  two  leagues,  before  reaching  our  destination.  It  was 
a  little  hamlet,  called  cerrillos,  of  miserable  ranches,' lying  upon 
the  side  of  a  hill,  where  we  had  hopes  of  meeting  a  party  of  guer- 
rillas. Our  arrangements  were  quickly  made — men  posted — 
pieces  cocked — the  houses  summoned  successively — but,  alas  ! 
for  our  anticipations  of  a  skrimmage,  the  birds  had  flown  some 
hours  before,  leaving  but  a  few  old  people  and  children  in  the 
place.  I  was  sadly  disappointed,  for  I  had  an  extremely  perilous 
path  to  explore  in  getting  to  my  station — no  more  nor  less  than 
charging,  full  leap,  through  a  large  corral  of  sheep  and  cattle — 
with  half  a  dozen  fixed  bayonets  close  at  my  heels — the  bullocks 


WE  ARE  OFFERED  A  BABY.  139 

jumping  right  and  left,  in  great  affright,  and  I  expecting  every 
instant  some  rampant  bull  ahead  to  toss  me  into  the  air,  or  a 
sharp  bayonet  to  stick  me  in  the  rear ;  nor  did  I  feel  relieved, 
until  the  muzzle  of  my  carbine  struck  the  door  of  the  rancho,  and 
I  found  breath  to  cry,  halt!  to  the  party.  After  a  deal  of 
praying  and  screeching,  from  the  shrill  throats  of  women  and 
children,  the  door  fell,  and,  by  the  glare  of  a  flickering  torch,  an 
old  lady  tremblingly  approached,  with  a  baby  in  each  arm,  crying, 
Somos  pobres,  senor,  are  purissima!  no  hay  mas  quc  esos  !  tome 
vd  un  nino,  por  el  amor  de  Dios  1 — we  're  poor,  but  take  a  baby, 
for  the  love  of  God.  We  generously  declined  the  good  woman's 
kindness,  and  succeeded  in  allaying  her  alarm,  by  the  assurance 
that  we  were  in  search  of  men,  and  not  infants.  -  Truly,  it  has  a 
tendency  to  jar  one's  nerves,  this  storming  a  person's  house  with 
armed  men  in  the  dead  of  the  night. 

We  had  a  dreadfully  fatiguing  march  back,  and  had  there  not 
been  many  rivulets  to  quench  thirst,  some  of  us  would  have  been 
thoroughly  exhausted.  Entering  the  town  at  eight  o'clock, 
we  learned  with  surprise,  that  the  friends  whom  we  went  in 
search  of  had  been  making  night  hideous  in  the  village  itself,  and 
only  decamped  towards  daylight  on  our  approach. 

A  few  days  succeeding  our  arrival,  the  ships  were  busily  em- 
ployed watering.  In  the  southern  arm  of  the  bay  is  a  small 
cove,  partially  sheltered  from  heavy  surf  by  a  jutting  reef  of 
rocks,  where,  during  the  rainy  season,  is  the  mouth  of  a  moun- 
tain-torrent ;  then,  the  stream  was  not  visible,  but  on  digging  a 
little  way  below  the  sandy  bed,  pure  delightful  water  bubbled  up, 
filtered  through  miles  of  coarse  gravel.  The  large  boats  anchored 
a  few  yards  from  the  strand,  and  the  men  amused  themselves  by 
swimming  the  casks  off  when  filled.  Nearly  the  whole  population 


140  CHAPTER  XX. 


of  the  Mission  assembled  there  at  daylight,  offering  fruit,  vegetables, 
and  other  articles  for  traffic.  Lots  of  girk  and  women  were  there, 
all  far  better  dressed,  and  more  comely  than  those  we  had  been 
gazing  upon  so  long  in  Upper  California.  I  devoted  my  time  to 
an  old  lady  and  two  daughters,  who  had  pitched  a  tent  near  by, 
and  opened  a  shop  for  the  sale  of  milk  and  eggs.  Of  the  two 
damsels  my  adoration  was  the  younger — Eugenia — a  charming 
little  brunette,  who  shared  my  dinner,  and,  by  way  of  a  frolic, 
cunningly  squeezed  lime-juice  in  my  month  when  asleep.  This 
style  of  existence  quite  enchanted  us  ;  and  what  with  sucking 
oranges,  dozing  in  the  welcome  shade,  and  bathing  half  the  time 
in  the  water, — we  fancied  it  somewhat  resembled  the  pleasant 
life  in  the  South  Sea  Islands. 

One  of  the  roads,  from  the  watering  ravine  to  San  Jose,  had 
much  the  appearance  of  an  alley  through  a  flower-garden :  the 
foliage  blazing  in  bloom,  with  a  plentiful  display  of  blossoming 
aloes  and  cactus,  shooting  up  into  the  air  like  Grecian  columns  ; 
many  of  the  latter  twenty  inches  in  diameter.  The  town  stands 
in  a  pretty  valley,  with  red,  sterile  mountains  toppling  around  it. 
One  broad  street  courses  between  two  rows  of  cane  and  mud-built 
dwellings,  thatched  with  straw,  having  shady  verandahs  in  front, 
constructed  o"f  frameworks  of  canes  and  leaves,  answering  very 
well  to  screen  the  burning  rays- of  the  sun,  which  sheds  light  and 
heat,  with  the  force  of  a  compound  blow-pipe.  At  the  upper  end 
of  the  avenue,  standing  on  a  slight,  though  abrupt,  elevation  from 
the  valley  behind,  was  the  cuartel,  a  small  building,  which  at  a 
later  period  was  the  scene  of  a  gallant  stand  and  siege,  where  a 
mere  handful  of  our  sailors  and  marines  bravely  repulsed  twenty 
times  their  number  of  Mexicans. 

Within  sight  of  the  village  is  a  shallow,  rapid  brook,  which 


LIFE  IN  SAN  JOSE.  14] 


serves  to  irrigate  many  well-tilled  plantations  about  the  suburbs. 
The  people  were  kind,  and  particularly  hospitable,  always  wel- 
coming us  with  the  utmost  cordiality.  We  usually  dined  at  the 
house  of  an  old  Chinaman,  who  was  a  miracle  of  a  cook,  and 
dished  us  up  beneath  the  shade — plover,  curlew,  wild  ducks,  and 
olives  without  stint — with  which,  and  chatting,  smoking,  lounging 
from  house  to  house,  and  siesta,  we  got  through  the  hours  plea- 
santly. On  one  afternoon,  having  somewhat  soiled  my  outer 
man,  in  leaping  into  a  puddle  instead  of  over  it,  my  newly- 
discovered  sweetheart  washed  my  trowsers  and  shirt,  whilst  I 
dozed  away  on  a  low  cot  frame,  upon  which  was  tightly  drawn  a 
tanned  sheet  of  leather — and  a  capital,  cool,  comfortable  appa- 
ratus it  is  in  warm  weather.  We  generally  returned  to  the  ships  by 
night,  as  the  unsettled  state  of  the  neighboring  country  rendered 
it  impossible  to  remain  ;  so,  after  rewarding  pretty  Eugenia  with 
my  handkerchief  for  her  trouble,  I  turned  my  steps  for  the  last 
tune  on  San  Jose. 

The  expedition  that  started  for  Todos  Santos  on  our  arrival, 
and  for  which  serious  uneasiness  was  beginning  to  be  entertained, 
got  safely  back  on  the  seventh  day.  They  found  a  dull,  barren 
region  to  traverse,  and  were  not  repaid  by  a  sight  of  the  guer- 
rillas, who  had  all  decamped  for  a  rallying  point  near  La  Paz. 

In  consequence  of  the  earnest  solicitations  made  by  the  simple 
inhabitants  of  San  Jose,  for  a  small  force  to  protect  them  from 
their  brethren  in  arms,  who  were  not  so  favorably  disposed 
towards  the  North  Americans,  it  was  deemed  advisable  to  comply 
with  the  request,  and  a  detachment  of  twenty  marines,  a  nine- 
pounder  carronade,  with  four  officers,  under  command  of  Lieut. 
Charles  Heywood,  U.  S.  N.,  were  detailed  for  the  service,  and  the 
next  day  occupied  the  town. 


CHAPTER    XXI. 

MAZATLAN  lies  in  latitude  23°  12  N'.  verging  on  the  tropic, 
flanked  by  a  broad  belt,  ten  leagues  wide,  of  the  Tierra  Caliente, 
with  the  lofty  mountains  that  support  the  elevated  terraces  and 
grand  plateau  of  the  interior  plainly  visible  in  the  background. 
The  town  is  built  upon  a  triangular  space  formed  by  three 
hills  at  the  angles,  the  apex  a  bluff  .promontory,  extending 
seaward,  and  beyond  two  small  islets,  barely  divided  from  the 
frowning  helmet  of  Creston.  These  salient  points  form  together 
a  bold,  rocky  partition,  which  with  another  parallel  barrier  to  the 
eastward,  breaks  off  the  ocean  swell,  sufficiently  to  admit  of  a 
secure  anchorage  from  all  but  southerly  winds.  This  is  called 
the  New  Port.  Right  and  left  of  the  town  are  curving  sandy 
beaches ;  the  one  abreast  the  New  Port,  protected  by  a  sand-bar, 
that  incloses  a  safe  haven  for  small  vessels  ;  then  further,  a  wide 
estero,  or  inlet,  runs  inland,  following  the  bend  of  the  coast  for 
sixty  miles  to  the  southward ;  while  one  channel  branches  away 
to  the  west,  encircles  Mazatlan,  and  passing  some  miles  in  a  line 
with  the  sea,  is  only  prevented  from  again  meeting  the  ocean  by 
a  narrow  strip  of  marsh  and  sand.  To  the  right  of  the  town 
commences  a  small  patch  of  sand  called  Olas  Alias,  whereon 
some  of  the  best  buildings  are  situated ;  beyond  is  an  abrupt 
dome-like  elevation ;  and  then  farther  still,  is  a  narrow  indeu- 


DEMONSTRATIONS   BEFORE   MAZATLAN.  143 


tation,  formerly  used  as  the  Puerto  Viejo  ;  when  the  beach  con- 
tinues in  a  gentle  curve,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  up  the  gulf, 
to  the  northward 

In  the  year  1830,  Mazatlan  was  a  miserable  Indian  fishing 
village  ;  but  owing  to  its  advantageous  position  in  affording  a 
better  harbor,  and  fresh  water,  than  existed  for  large  vessels 
north  of  Acapulco — its  facilities  for  communication  with  the  rich 
mining  districts  of  Zacatecas,  Durango  and  Culiacan,  besides  the 
market  opened  in  the  populous  provinces  bordering  upon  the 
Pacific,  it  soon  increased  in  magnitude  to  a  fine  thriving  little 
city  of  ten  thousand  inhabitants,  and  became  the  most  important 
commercial  point  on  the  continent  north  of  the  equator. 

Sailing  from  the  Bay  of  San  Jose,  in  company  with  the 
frigate  Congress,  and  corvette  Cyane,  we  crossed  the  Californian 
Gulf,  and  made  the  land  on  the  afternoon  of  November  llth 
The  sea  breeze  set  in  late,  and  the  sun  was  down  upon  arriving 
at  the  Venados  Islands.  The  ships  were  together,  and  having 
each  a  position  assigned,  the  Independence  passed  ahead,  and 
standing  boldly  in,  anchored  abreast  the  Olas  Altas  beach, 
within  half  musket-shot  of  the  shore.  The  Congress  came  to 
anchor  in  the  old  port,  commanding  the  old  road  and  garita,  while 
the  Cyane  brought  her  guns  to  bear  upon  the  eastern  face  of 
the  town,  from  the  new  anchorage. 

All  remained  quiet  during  the  night  on  shore  ;  the  boats  of  the 
squadron  were  gotten  in  the  water  ;  batteries  in  fighting  order ; 
guns  cast  loose  and  trained ;  besides  whole  hail-storms  of  round 
shot,  shells,  grape,  and  divers  other  sorts  of  deadly  pyrotechny, 
piled  in  stacks  and  racks,  around  the  decks,  all  ready  at  a 
moment's  warning  to  knock  the  town  to  dust.  At  sunrise  a  flag 
of  truce  was  sent  to  summon  the  authorities.  The  Commandante 


144  CHAPTER  XXI. 


Telles,  in  consequence  of  fatigue  caused  by  galloping  about  the 
place,  and  brandy,  did  not  appear,  but  delegated  his  officials  to 
inform  the  American  cartel,  that  he  could  not  reconcile  with  it 
his  honor  to  receive  our  officers,  and  to  inform  El  Sefior  Com- 
modore that  he  saw  no  necessity  for  surrendering  Mazatlan,  but 
the  same  time  he  should  retire  to  his  camp  at  the  Palos  Prietos, 
beyond  the  environs,  where  he  would  await  the  ruthless 
invaders. 

Four  hours  were  given  for  deliberation ;.  we  were  told  subse- 
quently, that  they  anticipated  four  weeks,  with  the  privilege  of 
breaking  off  negociations  at  the  end  of  that  period.  Before  the 
time  had  expired,  the  companies  for  landing  were  ready  in  the 
boats,  and  the  artillery  awaiting  the  stroke  of  the  bell  to  begin 
the  ball;  but  presently  there  came  alongside  a  dapper  little 
personage,  with  intelligence  that  the  Mexican  troops  had 
entirely  deserted  the  town,  and  no  resistance  would  be  offered  by 
the  inhabitants.  After  all  the  trouble  we  were  a  little  disap- 
pointed, and  even  Uncle  Ben  Bunker,  our  worthy  gunner,  was 
quite  exasperated,  being  obliged  to  stow  away  his  fire-works,  and 
secure  the  guns,  for  a  more  remote  occasion. 

The  flotilla  of  twenty-nine  boats  had  assembled  around  the 
flag  ship,  and,  headed  by  the  Commodore,  we  pulled  between 
Creston  and  the  Main,  and  made  for  the  mole.  Not  a  bayonet 
was  visible.  A  concourse  of  persons  lined  the  beach,  who  merely 
gratified  their  curiosity  by  scowling  upon  us,  as  the  boats  came 
to  land  and  emptied  their  loads.  In  ten  minutes  our  flag  was 
flying  over  the  town,  and  twenty-one  guns  saluted  it  from  tho 
Independence.  Field-pieces  were  then  disembarked,  placed 
in  position,  the  men  wheeled  into  column,  the  band  struck  up, 
and  away  we  marched  through  Mazatlan.  The  house-tops 


WE  OCCUPY  THE  TOWN.  145 


were  crowded  with  veiled  faces  ;  but  upon  so  slight  an  acquaint- 
ance we  found  difficulty  in  putting  in  even  a  wink,  except  at 
rare  intervals.  We  reached  the  Cuartel,  a  large  square  build- 
ing for  barracks  and  citadel,  situated  on  a  slight  eminence  in  rear 
of  the  town,  arid  commanding  the  main  roads  to  the  interior. 
The  sailors  and  marines  were  soon  quartered,  guns  planted,  and 
all  preparations  made  to  resist  an  attack.  Three  hundred  were 
detailed  for  garrison,  and  the  remainder  sent  on  board.  From 
appearances,  the  Mexicans  had  departed  with  great  precipitation, 
leaving  many  of  their  accoutrements,  some  hundred  stand  of  rifles 
and  muskets,  saddles,  and  a  few  pieces  of  artillery.  Their  whole 
force  was  about  eight  hundred,  more  than  half  regulars,  and  had 
they  chosen  to  stand  their  ground,  we  should  have  suffered  severely, 
although  not  perhaps  repulsed.  Telles  and  his  troops  were  posted 
a  league  up  the  road,  near  the  forest  of  Palos  Prietos,  and  it  was 
stated  that  his  intention  was  to  assault  us ;  but  we  experienced  no 
alarm  on  that  score,  feeling  assured  that,  after  relinquishing  all 
th  -,'ir  advantages  in  position,  they  could  have  no  further  wish  to 
retake  them. 

The  first  few  days  we  were  occupied  making  reconnoisances  in 
the  neighborhood.  Two  positions  were  selected  for  fortifications: 
the  one,  a  steep  hill,  overlooking  the  estero ;  and  the  other,  a 
lower  eminence,  entirely  guarding  the  main  and  only  approach 
for  cavalry  by  land  to  the  port.  This  was  the  Garita.  Between 
these  two  points,  in  former  times,  a  line  had  been  marked  out, 
faced  by  a  broad  and  deep  ditch,  intended  to  connect  the  western 
branch  of  the  inlet  with  the  sea,  thus  cutting  the  town  entirely 
off  from  the  main  land ;  but  the  excavation  had  only  been  com- 
pleted as  far  as  the  Garita  road,  leaving,  however,  but  a  narrow 
causeway  open. 
7 


146  CHAPTER  XXI. 


Heavy  ordnance,  long  twenty-four  pounders,  with  carriages  and 
wheels,  mortars,  and  lighter  guns,  were  brought  ashore  from  the 
ships ;  and  as  they  were  drawn  through  the  streets,  by  the  stout 
arms  and  shouts  of  hundreds  of  sailors,  the  inhabitants  fairly 
looked  astounded.  In  a  short  time  these  heavy  monsters  were 
staring,  with  their  dark  cavernous  mouths,  from  the  esplanade  of 
the  Cuartel.  Picks,  shovels  and  barrows  went  briskly  to  work ; 
ditches,  walls  and  parapets  were  commenced,  and  went  on  un- 
ceasingly for  many  months. 

Previous  to  our  coming,  a  great  number  of  the  more  respectable 
residents  had  retired  to  their  estates,  or  the  towns  in  the  vicinity ; 
but  upon  finding  that  the  North  Americans  were  not  such  out- 
rageous invaders  as  they  had  been  led  to  believe,  gradually  these 
families  returned  to  their  homes  in  Mazatlan.  Meanwhile,  a  mil- 
itary and  civil  Governor  and  Lieutenant  Governor*  had  been 
appointed,  and  an  ayuntamiento  called  from  among  the  citi- 
icns,  with  commissioners  on  our  side,  to  arrange  preliminaries  for 
the  municipal  administration  of  the  town.  This  proved  to  be  a 
matter  of  very  difficult  adjustment.  The  junta  were  averse  to 
removing  the  alcobala — a  tax  levied  upon  provisions  and  produce 
entering  the  gates — at  all  times  a  burdensome  and  unequal  extor- 
tion, falling  upon  the  poor :  this  was  at  last  yielded,  and  it,  of 
course,  became  a  very  popular  measure,  although  with  little  real 
benefit ;  for  the  producers  themselves  were  compelled  to  suffer 
severely  from  the  rapacity  of  their  own  troops  outside.  The 
President  of  the  Council  was  Sefior  Crespo,  a  very  respectable, 
honest  person ;  and  could  he  have  been  induced  to  fill  the  post, 
saving  a  few  illiberal  ideas  and  fears  of  compromising  himself  with 

*  The  last  named  appointment  wag  ably  filled  by  Lieut.  Halleck,  of  U.  S.  Engineers, 
who,  from  his  military  and  scientific  knowledge,  was  of  the  greatest  assistance  to  tho 
expedition. 


MEXICAN  MORALITY.  147 

his  former  friends  outside,  all  would  have  gone  on  smoothly ;  but 
he  refused  to  serve,  and  Seftores  Pelaiz  and  Leon  were  appointed 
to  preside  over  the  civil  tribunals.  This  caused  dissatisfaction, 
as  neither  had  a  surplus  of  moral  character  to  boast  of;  but  as 
the  commodity  was  scarce,  the  judgeships  would  have  remained 
vacant  a  long  while,  before  more  suitable  selections  could  have 
been  found  among  the  Mexicans.  Nevertheless,  the  policy  pur- 
sued by  us  became  popular  with  all  classes,  and  there  were  but 
few  exceptions  to  the  general  wish,  that  our  flag  might  float  over 
them  forever.  What  tended  in  a  great  measure  to  revive  confi- 
dence among  the  wealthier  inhabitants,  was  our  manner  of  con- 
ducting business  at  the  custom  house.  The  scale  of  duties,  as 
exhibited  by  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury,  was  modified  to  suit 
this  market,  and,  in  the  absence  of  all  bribery  and  corruption,  it 
restorod  a  certain  harmony  of  association  among  the  merchants, 
which,  necessarily,  was  interrupted  by  the  Mexican  policy  of 
holding  out  inducements  for  every  trader  to  undersell  his  neigh- 
bor ;  when  all  were  constantly  intriguing  with  the  govern- 
ment empleados  to  get  their  cargoes  through  the  customs,  at  a 
lower  mark  than  usual.  This  system  was  done  away  with, 
trade  was  thrown  upon  an  assured  basis,  and  it  consequently  en- 
couraged a  more  friendly  intercourse.  As  a  single  instance  of 
the  rapacity  and  extortion  practiced  by  the  Mazatlanese  authori- 
ties displaced  by  us,  there  were  five-and-twenty  officials  employed 
within  the  custom  house ;  and  of  a  yearly  revenue  averaging 
nearly  a  million  of  dollars,  not  a  rial  ever  went  to  the  general 
government.  In  the  first  place,  the  Mexican  tariff  was  frequently 
so  heavy  as  to  amount  to  prohibition,  and  to  save  time  and  the 
risk  of  smuggling,  it  was  only  necessary  to  throw  a  third  or  fourth 
of  the  duties  into  the  commandantc's  or  collector's  hands,  who,  in 


]48  CHAPTER  XXI. 


turn,  made  a  smaller  distribution  to  the  cormorants  beneath  them 
Telles  had  it  in  his  power  to  have  laid  by  half  a  million  of  money, 
but  it  all  went  like  water  through  his  fingers,  and  he  fled  as  poor 
as  he  began. 

There  were  no  restrictions  placed  upon  the  liberties  or  pleas- 
ures of  the  people.  They  had  justice  by  their  own  laws.  We 
preserved  order.  Patrols  and  police  parties  perambulated  the 
town  night  and  day.  After  oracion  had  tolled,  no  person  was 
permitted  to  enter  or  leave  the  Garita  until  sunrise,  without  the 
risk  of  a  bullet  in  his  body !  for  sentinels  were  doubled  at  night, 
and  mounted  pickets  guarded  the  great  ditch  towards  the  estero. 
No  arms  were  permitted  to  be  carried  by  citizens,  and  both  gen- 
tlemen and  paisanos  were  obliged  to  leave  them,  upon  entering  the 
town,  at  the  Garita. 

There  was  but  one  church  in  Mazatlan,  for  the  people  are  not 
piously  inclined,  and  one  Padre  was  all  we  ever  saw ;  and  him 
the  girls  called  Father  Windmill.  The  only  good  public 
edifice  is  the  Duana.  The  houses  generally  are  of  one  story, 
built  of  bricks,  or  adobies,  and  plastered  over ;  but  all  the  wealthy 
residents  have  fine,  cool  and  spaeious  dwellings,  with  flat  roofs, 
which  command  pleasant  views  of  the  sea  and  environs.  The 
streets  are  wide,  having  trottoirs,  tolerably  well  paved  and  light- 
ed. There  are  two  small  plazas,  many  very  handsome  shops, 
cafes  and  sociedads.  Altogether,  we  found  ourselves  in  a  modern 
little  city,  and  much  nearer  civilization  than  in  the  mushroom 
settlements  of  California. 

The  climate  is  very  warm  in  the  morning,  though  tempered 
by  cooling  breezes  from  the  ocean  towards  afternoon.  After  the 
summer  rains  have  passed,  much  sickness  prevails,  owing  to  the 


MALARIA  AND  FEVERS.  149 


malaria  that  is  generated  from  the  wet,  marshy  plains  and  lagoons 
around  the  town.  Congestive  fevers  and  agues  are  then  qurto 
common,  and  the  wealthier  orders  retire  to  the  high  lands  of  the 
interior. 


CHAPTER    XXII. 

THE  Mexicans  remained  encamped  but  three  days  at  Palos 
Prietos,  when,  leaving  strong  posts  of  cavalry  to  blockade  the 
roads,  and  intercept  communication  with  the  town,  they  retired 
to  the  Presidio  of  Mazatlan — a  place  eight  leagues  beyond — where 
they  went  into  quarters.  As  yet  they  had  committed  no  hostile 
acts,  except  making  a  bonfire  of  a  number  of  their  own  launches, 
and  small  craft,  that  had  been  carried  for  safety  up  the  Estero,  to 
prevent  them  falling  into  Yankee  hands.  We  could  see  the  gay 
pennons  of  their  lances  constantly  with  the  spy-glasses  ;  and  by 
this  time  having  acquired  a  slight  idea  of  the  topography  of  the 
immediate  suburbs,  we  began  to  extend  our  scouts  further  beyond 
the  lines. 

The  skirmishing  commenced  on  the  18th.  With  fifty  men,  we 
left  the  Cuartel  at  midnight ;  pursued  a  path  parallel  with  the 
beach,  and  after  resting  some  hours  in  ditches,  and  nearly 
devoured  by  musquitos,  at  break  of  day  found  ourselves  a 
league  from  the  garrison.  Soon  after,  we  discovered  a  body 
of  forty  horsemen  moving  along  the  road  in  direction  of  the 
town.  We  were  obliged  to  break  cover,  and  run  smartly  to  a 
hedge  that  fringed  the  road,  in  hopes  of  intercepting  their  retreat, 
and  were  of  necessity  soon  exposed  to  view.  The  lancers  wheeled 
to  reconnoiter,  and  then  came  on  at  a  trot.  We  blazed  away 


A  REEFER'S  IDEA  OF  BULLETS. 


with  the  muskets,  when  they  increased  their  speed,  until  on 
reaching  a  thicket,  they  halted  and  returned  the  fire  from  their 
escopetas.  This  continued  some  time,  the  balls  knocking  the 
dust  up  in  little  puffs,  but  too  far  distant  to  do  any  damage,  when 
hearing  the  sharp  pinging  song  of  a  bullet,  I  turned  my  head 
and  beheld  a  verdant  reefer,  with  a  cutlass  strapped  around  his 
waist,  one  hand  in  his  pocket,  and  the  other  scratching  his  cheek. 
"  Hillo  !  "  quoth  I  ;  "  what's  the  matter  ?  "—  "  Nothing  but 
these  musquitos,"  he  replied,  and  continued  attentively  regarding 
the  flashes  from  the  bushes.  While  this  little  fusilade  was  going 
on,  we  espied  two  officers,  who  had  probably  ventured  too  far  in 
advance  of  their  troop,  and  were  entirely  cut  off  from  the  main 
body  ;  we  hailed  them  to  surrender,  but,  without  heeding  the 
summons,  they  behaved  quite  coolly  ;  moved  slowly  towards 
where  a  dozen  muskets  were  gazing  at  them,  and  where  they  were 
obliged  to  pass  an  angle  of  the  road,  when  having  availed 
themselves  of  the  last  chance  of  even  a  leaf  of  shelter,  with  one 
arm  clasping  the  horses'  necks,  they  half  swung  from  the  saddles, 
and  made  a  desperate  rush  to  pass  us.  A  hail-storm  of  balls  and 
buck-shot  rained  around  them  ;  the  horses  plunged,  evidently  hit, 
and  the  hindmost  rider  fell  from  his  seat,  still  clinging  to  the 
saddle,  but  the  speed  of  the  animals  soon  bore  them  to  their  com- 
panions and  shelter.  We  afterwards  learned  that  they  had  lost 
one  killed  and  five  wounded.  Pursuit  was  useless,  our  heels 
being  less  nimble  than  horses,  so  we  formed  and  returned  to  the 
barracks. 

The  night  following  this  adventure  we  were  out  again  , 
about  three  hours  past  midnight,  with  a  single  attend  mt,  I 
became  separated  from  my  party,  and  after  getting  bewildered 
among  swamps  and  thickets,  just  as  day  was  breaking  we  reached 


152  CHAPTER  XXII. 

the  beach.  All  right  now,  we  thought,  and  trudging  stoutly  over 
the  sand,  we  suddenly  came  full  upon  a  Mexican  picket.  We 
dropped  as  if  shot.  It  was  early  dawn,  and  we  were  not  dis- 
covered. They  were  sitting  on  their  horses,  behind  a  little 
hillock,  with  the  butts  of  their  long  lances  resting  on  the  ground  ; 
and  for  my  part  I  already,  in  imagination,  felt  one,  half  through 
me  ;  they  were  anxiously  peering  about,  and  we  were  certain  that 
the  first  movement  on  our  side  would  be  attended  with  inevitable 
capture,  with  melancholy  thoughts  of  perspective  dinners  on 
frijoles  and  paper  cigars.  So  we  remained  quietly  lying  on  the 
sand,  until  presently  one  exclaimed,  with  much  emphasis,  com- 
padre,  no  hay  Yankis  !  corramos — there  are  no  Yankees,  let  us  be 
off.  A  moment  later,  there  was  heard  a  sharp  rattle  of  musketry, 
soon  followed  by  a  volley  ;  uttering  loud  curses,  they  gave  spur, 
covered  us  with  dust  as  they  galloped  by,  and  disappeared  in  the 
woods.  Regaining  our  feet  once  more,  we  plunged  waist  deep 
through  a  lagoon,  crossed  fields  apd  fences,  and  reaching  the 
main  road,  devoted  all  our  energies  to  our  legs.  A  mile  of  this 
healthful  exercise  exhausted  our  powers,  and  we  paused  for 
breath ;  but  the  troubles  apparently  were  not  ended.  A  party 
of  horsemen  came  dashing  along  the  road  in  our  wake  ;  running 
was  out  of  the  question,  there  was  no  more  run  left  in  us,  so  with 
a  cocked  carbine  and  pistol  we  stood  the  result/  Our  fears  were 
groundless,  however ;  and,  upon  seeing  ladies  in  the  troop,  we 
took  courage,  and  advanced  to  meet  them.  It  was  a  Spanish 
family,  returning  from  Rosario,  who  falling  accidentally  between 
the  firing  of  the  skirmishing  parties,  were  nearly  frightened  out 
of  their  wits  ;  indeed,  one  of  the  ladies  had  fainted,  and  been  left 
at  a  rancho  by  the  roadside,  until  a  litter  could  be  sent  from 
town.  They  were  not  more  rejoiced  at  having  us  for  an  escort 


AFFAIR  AT  URIAS.  153 

than  we  were  to  avail  ourselves  of  their  protection,  and  we  all 
jogged  bravely  into  Mazatlan.  Our  fellows  returned  soon  after, 
having  made  a  few  prizes  of  arms,  saddles,  and  camp  equipage, 
but  did  no  bodily  harm  to  the  enemy,  who,  as  before,  had  fled. 

On  the  night  of  the  19th,  a  plan  was  matured  for  surprising  a 
body  of  infantry  under  command  of  a  Swiss,  the  former  captain 
of  the  port,  named  Carlos  Horn ;  our  spies  reported  his  position 
in  the  small  hamlet  of  Urias,  about  seven  miles  up  estero.  A 
hundred  men,  with  a  small  field-piece,  took  the  main  road,  while 
half  this  number  were  to  embark  in  boats,  pass  beyond  the 
Mexican  post,  land,  and  march  down  to  meet  the  shore 
party. 

We  left  the  ships  at  midnight,  and  with  muffled  oars  pulled 
silently  up  the  river.  On  passing  the  hamlet,  we  saw  the  gleam 
of  camp  fires,  and  the  cry  of  their  sentinels  arose,  shrill  and  clear 
in  the  still  night,  alerto!  alerto!  The  oars  dipped  noiselessly  in 
the  water,  and,  continuing  up  the  estuary,  we  soon  came  to  the 
spot  indicated  by  our  guides.  Scarcely  had  the  men  formed  on 
the  beach,  when  we  heard,  first  a  few  dropping  shots,  and  then 
volley  upon  volley,  from  our  friends  to  the  left.  After  groping 
about  some  time  to  find  the  road,  the  guide  discovered  that  he 
had  mistaken  the  landing,  and  we  accordingly  reembarked.  By 
this  time,  the  firing  from  the  shore  party  had  ceased,  and  all  was 
again  quiet.  Beneath  the  deep  shade  of  overhanging  foliage 
that  fringed  the  banks  of  the  estero,  the  boats  were  carefully 
pushed  down  the  stream,  until  a  narrow  opening  in  the  bushes 
gave  a  clear  view  of  the  broad  level  marisma,  and  we  found  our- 
selves directly  in  front  of  the  village  itself,  with  fires  and  lights 
flashing  in  all  directions.  Without  attracting  attention,  the  boats 
were  cautiously  drawn  within  the  thickets,  the  sailors  forming, 
7* 


154  CHAPTER  XXII. 


and  lying  down  upon  the  sand.  We  were  close  to  the  Mexicans— 
their  sentinels  not  twenty  yards  distant,  and  every  word  they 
uttered  distinctly  audible.  Presently  a  body  of  horsemen  came 
clattering  over  the  hard  beach.  Quienes!  sang  out  the  guard. 
Carlos  !  said  the  watchword,  and  then  began  an  angry  altercation: 
"  Why  did  you  fly  from  those  cursed  Yankees,  when  you  knew 
they  were  approaching?"  Porque  mi  Coronel,  los  Americanos 
rompieron  el  fut-go  contre  la  advanzda — y  kabia  balazos  aqui,  y 
alia,  y  que  podia  hacer  yo  1  rejoined  the  speaker — They  fired 
upon  our  advance,  and  the  bullets  were  flying  so  thick,  that, 
what  could  I  do?  "Where  are  they  now?"  said  the  Colonel. 
"Oh!  they  have  retreated  to  Mazatlan  again."  Loco! — you're 
a  fool — said  the  Colonel,  with  much  disgust;  "they're  only 
awaiting  daylight,  to  be  upon  us — is  all  quiet  at  the  water?" 
Si  Sefior,  not  a  soul  has  passed.  "  Then  let  the  men  fall  in, 
and  go  through  their  exercise."  It  was  about  three  o'clock; 
their  men  formed  in  ranks  ;  horses  were  led  out,  and  the  troopers 
mounted;  officers  began  drilling  their  companies,  encouraging 
them  to  stand  firm,  and  the  Yankees  would  certainly  be  cut  to 
pieces.  Nothing  was  heard  or  seen,  for  an  hour,  but  the  heavy 
thud !  thud !  of  the  ramrods  in  loading,  and  glancing  of  sabres 
and  small  arms.  During  all  their  proceedings  we  remained  mo- 
tionless. By-and-bye  the  first  grey  streaks  of  dawn  came  slowly 
over  the  eastern  hills — still  we  did  not  stir — the  men,  however, 
were  becoming  a  little  nervous,  from  resting  so  long  in  one  posi- 
tion ;  and  occasionally,  the  clink  of  a  bayonet  or  noise  of  accou- 
trements striking  together  were  audible  ;  and  just  as  the  day  was 
bursting  forth,  like  a  flash,  as  it  does  only  in  the  tropics,  a  Mexi- 
can soldier,  on  duty  nearly  at  our  elbows — and  who,  by  the  way, 
disturbed  our  repose  during  the  night  by  a  bad  cough,  and  talking 


THE  ESCARAMUZA  155 

to  himself — discovered  us,  and  sung  out,  Aqui  cstd  hombres  f — 
these  were  the  last  words  he  spoke — the  signal  was  given  along 
our  ranks,  "  rise  ! — take  aim — fire  low."  As  the  smoke  rolled 
upward,  we  saw  a  number  of  saddles  emptied,  and  the  marisma 
strewn  with  dead  and  wounded ;  although  taken  completely 
by  surprise,  the  Mexicans  were  not  as  yet  intimidated,  and, 
shouting  viva  Me.rico!  they  immediately  gave  us  a  heavy  fire 
from  carbines  and  escopetas ;  but  our  sailors  had  kneeled  to  load, 
and  the  leaden  shower  passed  over.  The  firing  lasted  for  some 
minutes,  when  the  word  was  given  to  charge  !  Away  we  splashed 
over  the  marisma— -their  horsemen  broke  and  fled,  dragging  off 
dead  and  wounded — the  infantry  did  not  make  up  their  minds  until 
the  bayonets  were  nearly  upon  them,  when  they,  too,  dropped  their 
muskets  and  plunged  into  the  chapparal.  Meanwhile  the  shore 
party  was  approaching,  and  had  commenced  a  fusilade  upon  the 
advance  post  of  the  Mexicans,  and  very  much  to  our  relief,  after 
putting  them  to  flight,  the  cheers  of  our  friends  greeted  us,  for 
the  field-piscc  was  pitching  shot  far  beyond  the  enemy,  and  a 
few  stand  of  grape  had  already  fallen  about  our  heels.  Sending 
small  bodies  into  the  thickets,  we  drove  the  discomfited  troops  to 
the  hills,  and  then  finding  their  cavalry  had  rallied  up  the  road, 
pursued  them  a  mile,  exchanged  a  few  shots,  when,  the  field- 
piece  coming  up,  they  finally  made  good  their  retreat. 

Returning  to  the  hamlet,  we  collected  a  few  articles  of  camp 
equipage — mules,  horses,  and  arms ;  then  digging  a  pit  in  the 
sand,  we  laid  the  corpses  of  the  slain  within,  covered  them  decently 
over,  and  erecting  a  rude  cross,  put  on  our  hats  and  retired. 
There  was  a  vile  old  virago  standing  in  the  door  of  a  rude  rancho, 
who,  during  the  whole  skirmish,  never  for  a  moment  ceased  to 
curse  los  demonios  Yankees  ;  and  although  the  walls  of  the  house 


156  CHAPTER  XXII 


were  thickly  spattered  with  buHets,  she  escaped  unhurt ;  not  so 
her  comely  daughter,  who  was  grazed  on  the  cheek.  Our  own 
force  suffered  pretty  severely  :  one  killed  and  twenty-two  wounded, 
of  whom  two  afterwards  died.  The  Mexicans  we  learned  had  lost 
nine  killed  and  eighteen  badly  wounded.  These  little  affairs  are 
capital  sport  during  the  flurry  and  excitement  of  action,  amid  the 
cheering  and  firing,  noise  and  confusion  ;  but  when  the  fun  is  over, 
and  the  surgeons  are  busied  with  bandages  and  blood — pallid  faces, 
splintered  bones,  streaming  gun-shot  wounds  around — and,  per- 
haps, a  pair  of  lifeless  legs  dangling  outside  the  carts  near  by — 
the  scene  presents  a  more  gloomy  aspect. 

Placing  the  disabled  in  boats  we  began  our  march  towards 
the  port.  Through  the  kindness  of  Mr.  Canova,  who  filled 
the  oflice  of  First  Lieutenant  to  our  company,  I  transformed 
myself  into  a  dragoon,  my  friend  having  stumbled  upon  a 
black  charger,  ready  equipped,  which  he  placed  at  my  disposal  : 
moreover,  I  was  somewhat  bruised  from  the  blow  of  a  spent 
escopeta  ball,  that  during  the  melee  had  struck  me  under  the 
arm,  knocking  me  over  into  the  water,  as  if — as  was  strongly 
surmised  by  my  friends — a  jackass  had  kicked  me.  However, 
this  was  scandal,  industriously  circulate^  by  the  Lieutenant- 
Governor,  who  was  himself  sorely  disappointed  in  not  getting  hit, 
after  untiring  exertions  amid  the  thickest  of  the  skirmish. 
Nevertheless,  I  lost  a  cutlass  by  the  operation,  and  thought  it  no 
robbery  to  draw  a  long  toledo-like  weapon  from  the  belt  of  a  dead 
Mexican,  which,  with  the  image  of  his  patron  saint,  and  a  bundle 
of  cigarillos,  amply  repaid  me  for  my  bruises. 

Some  months  later,  in  a  conversation  with  the  officer  who  com- 
manded at  Urias,  he  informed  us  that  he  had  been  aware  of  our 
coming  from  the  merchants  in  town,  and  had  requested  reinforce- 


THE  RETREAT.  157 


ments  from  Telles,  which,  however,  was  not  attended  to ;  and  a  body 
of  eighty  cavalry,  who  had  been  detailed  to  charge  the  shore  party, 
fled  without  discharging  a  carbine.  He  spared  no  abuse  on  the 
cowardice  of  his  officers,  but  very  highly  praised  the  conduct  of 
the  soldiers. 

We  reached  Mazatlan  at  noon.  The  day  after,  Telles  marched 
to  Urias,  with  his  whole  force  and  artillery ;  but,  hearing  a  report 
that  the  Americans  were  coming  to  attack  him  with  bombas, 
retreated  the  same  day  to  Castillo,  where  he  again  encamped. 


CHAPTER    XXIII. 

A  MONTH  had  elapsed  since  the  occupation  of  Mazatlan,  and 
we  had  all  been  busily  employed  upon  the  fortifications,  and 
in  acquiring  a  little  knowledge  of  our  new  duties  on  shore :  we 
dropped  the  sailor  and  assumed  the  soldier;  forgot  all  about 
rigging  and  ships  ;  talked  of  roll-calls,  reveilles,  parades,  counter- 
signs, drills,  sections,  ditches,  and  parapets ;  the  officers  of  the 
day,  too,  appeared  in  red  silk  sashes  round  the  waist,  with  swords 
at  their  sides — sat  in  guard-rooms — sung  out,  "  Sergeant,  let  that 
man  pass,"  or,  "  Corporal,  let  the  fatigue  parties  fall  in  " — quite 
like  generals  of  division.  I  had  only  been  a  week  in  barracks,  at 
the  Cuartel,  and  getting  initiated  in  the  mysteries  of  soldiership, 
when,  the  fever  making  sad  havoc  among  our  ranks,  I  was  ordered 
to  relieve  the  company  stationed  at  the  Garita,  where  the  illness 
had  been  unusually  severe.  The  position  was  a  conical  eminence, 
within  three  hundred  yards  of  the  sea  beach,  nearly  surrounded 
by  lagoons,  and  entirely  commanding  the  main  road  to  the  port 
The  hill  was  originally  owned  by  a  gentleman,  who,  after  building 
a  decent  little  balconied  dwelling  thereon,  for  a  summer  retreat, 
eventually  had  the  satisfaction  of  removing  his  family  thence,  in 
carts,  to  the  more  wholesome  air  of  the  town.  In  consequence  of 
its  unhealthy  situation,  caused  by  miasma  that  arose  from  the 
stagnant  pools  below,  it  was  not  considered  a  desirable  post,  not- 


THE  GARITA.  159 


withstanding  its  pretty  location ;  and  I  may  as  well  add,  that  out 
of  one  hundred  and  seven  officers  and  men  who  had  been  stationed 
there,  I  was  the  sole  individual  that  was  not  taken  ill  with  fever 
during  the  six  mouths  of  our  stay.  Previous  to  my  occupation, 
an  energetic  brother  officer  had  already  raised  a  breast-high  stone 
wall,  and  three  guns  had  been  planted  in  battery.  It  was  a  place 
of  much  importance,  and  an  equal  degree  of  annoyance  ;  for  we 
were  obliged,  with  a  small  force  of  thirty  men,  to  be  extremely 
vigilant,  and  were  kept  chattering,  from  morn  until  night,  in 
examining  hundreds  who  were  passing  to  and  from  the  port.  The 
house  was  filled  with  fleas,  too,  whose  attacks  were  far  more 
troublesome  than  the  Mexicans ;  however,  after  a  hard  war  of 
six  weeks,  constantly  deluging  the  floors  with  salt  water,  they 
migrated  in  a  body,  and  we  were  never  again  molested.  Work- 
men came,  re-plastered  and  washed  the  walls,  repaired  windows 
and  doors,  restored  cook-house  and  stable,  so  that  in  the  end  we 
found  ourselves  more  pleasantly  quartered  than  in  any  other  posi- 
tion in  town,  and  had  no  wish  to  leave.  At  the  same  time  large 
working  parties  were  detailed  daily  from  the  main  barracks, 
who  were  employed  digging  a  deep,  wide  ditch,  throwing  up  an 
embankment,  and  raising  a  heavy  stone  wall  immediately  around 
what  ths  peasantry  designated  our  casa  bianco, — white  house. 

During  this  period  the  military  force  outside  committed 
robberies  unceasingly.  A  few  miles  beyond  our  lines  the  roads 
were  strongly  guarded  during  the  day,  but  at  night  were  left 
open^the  lancers  and  cavalry  retiring  beyond  our  reach.  Our 
force  was  too  small  to  occupy  the  roads  permanently,  without 
imprudently  weakening  the  garrison  of  the  town ;  consequently, 
those  thieving  gentry,  under  the  name  of  alcobala,  levied  tribute 
in  the  most  impartial  manner,  upon  all  their  poor  countrymen 


160  CHAPTER  XXIII. 

alike.  We  had  frequently  gone  out  in  small  ambuscading  parties 
in  hopes  of  picking  off  a  few  of  the  ladrons,  but  without  any 
success.  Scarcely  a  single  individual  out  of  hundreds  who  passed 
the  Garita  but  had  some  bitter  curses  to  lavish  upon  the  lancer os  ; 
even  the  poor  women  occasionally  were  mulcted  in  their  petticoats, 
until  at  last  they  all  became  exasperated,  and  many  volunteered  to 
conduct  us  to  the  retreats  of  their  tormentors.  The  services  of  one 
brave  paisano  were  called  into  requisition,  who  had  been  robbed  of 
his  hogs,  which  being  valuable  property  among  the  peasantry,  and 
his  revenge  being  warm,  we  thought  he  could  be  trusted,  and 
indeed  a  staunch  and  valuable  ally  he  ever  afterwards  proved. 
The  expedition  was  under  command  of  Captain  Luigi,  and  with 
fifty-five  men  we  left  the  Cuartel,  without  beat  of  drum,  at  nine 
in  the  evening.  Leaving  the  main  road  at  the  Marisma,  we 
entered  a  pathway,  closely  sheltered  by  trees  and  foliage,  and 
after  two  hours  rapid  marching,  halted  at  a  cluster  of  ranchos  by 
the  roadside.  Here  we  could  only  learn  that  the  Mexican 
cavalry  had  passed  by  at  sunset ;  but  during  an  examination  of 
one  of  the  huts,  we  laid  violent  hands  upon  a  rude  squint-eyed 
youth,  who  though  half  naked,  and  apparently  stupid,  had  a  bag 
of  dollars  tied  up  in  the  tail  of  his  shirt ;  him  we  interrogated  with 
a  bayonet  at  his  throat,  and  there  were  sufficient  symptoms  of  intel- 
ligence in  him  left  to  assure  us  that  if  he  himself  were  not  attached  to 
the  party  we  sought,  he  knew  the  bivouac.  With  a  riata  around 
his  neck,  and  carefully  guarded,  we  again  advanced.  Four  miles 
beyond,  we  reached  the  encampment ;  it  was  situated  in  a  flat 
little  meadow,  a  few  feet  lower  than  the  road,  and  girdled  nearly 
around  by  the  gully  of  a  water-course  that  hemmed  it  in  on  all 
sides.  Our  march  had  been  so  silent  as  not  to  create  alarm,  and 
strange  to  say  there  was  not  a  sentinel  awake.  Embers  of  the 


NIGHT  SKIRMISH  OP  SIGUERAS.  161 

watch-fires  gave  sufficient  light  to  distinguish  the  sleeping  figures 
of  the  troops,  with  horses  picketted  near.  We  divided  our  forces 
into  two  parties,  one  commanding  the  pathway  to  the  meadow, 
whilst  the  other  poured  in  a  deadly  fire,  and  immediately  charged 
across  the  ravine.  Taken  completely  by  surprise,  they  jumped 
up  in  great  consternation,  and  in  their  flight  received  the  bullets 
from  our  remaining  muskets ;  before  we  could  reload  they  were 
flying,  like  so  many  ghosts,  across  the  field,  leaving  everything 
behind.  On  gaining  the  bivouac,  we  found  it  quite  a  picturesque 
little  glade,  shaded  by  lofty  forest-trees,  and  beneath,  were  a 
number  of  bough-built  huts,  verging  on  the  rivulet  that  crossed 
the  road.  We  counted  eight  dead  bodies :  one  poor  youth  was 
breathing  his  last.  By  the  fitful  light  of  a  torch  I  tore  open  a 
bale  of  linen  at  hand,  passed  some  thick  folds  over  the  welling 
blood  of  his  wounds,  placed  a  drop  of  brandy  to  his  lips,  and  left 
him  to  die.  They  were  sixty  in  number,  and  we  captured  all 
they  had — carbines,  lances,  ammunition,  horses,  saddles,  and 
clothing,  besides  their  private  correspondence. 

There  was  one  incident  connected  with  this  escaramuza,  which 
•was  a  source  of  deep  regret  to  us.  The  wife  and  daughter  of 
the  commanding  officer  had,  very  imprudently,  been  on  a  visit  to 
the  encampment.  When  the  attack  commenced,  they  were  sleep- 
ing in  a  hut,  and  immediately  fled ;  but  the  child,  a  little  girl  of 
ten  years,  had  been  grazed  by  a  ball  in  the  foot,  and  told  her 
mother  the  pebbles  hurt  her  feet ;  the  kind  but  unfortunate  wo- 
man ran  back,  in  the  thickest  of  the  fire,  for  the  child's  ^hoes, 
and,  upon  returning,  received  a  mortal  wound  in  the  throat  She 
was  found  by  her  friends,  and  died  the  following  day — 

"  O  !  femmc  c'est  a  tort  qu'on  vous  nomme  timide, 
A  la  voix  de  vos  coeurs  vous  etes  intrepide." 


162  CHAPTER  XXIII. 


Loading  our  men  with  such  articles  as  could  be  conveniently 
transported,  we  burned  or  destroyed  a  large  quantity  of  arms, 
munitions  and  merchandize,  and  then  began  our  march  towards 
the  port.  Such  a  motley  throng  as  we  presented!  Some 
were  laden,  from  the  muzzles  of  their  muskets  down  to  their  heels, 
with  every  possible  variety  of  trumpery — bridles,  sabres,  flags, 
serapas,  and  even  women's  clothing ;  others,  mounted  on  several 
saddles,  one  a-top  the  other,  with  bundles  of  lances  and  fluttering 
pennons  secured  to  their  horses.  Our  trusty  guide,  in  lieu  of  the 
purloined  swine,  had  heaped  bale  upon  bale  on  his  horse  and 
individual  person,  until  he  appeared,  in  the  midst  of  his  plunder,  as 
if  seated  on  a  camel :  our  gallant  captain  had  contented  himself 
with  a  key  bugle,  and  a  c.apacious  uniform  frock-coat,  some 
sizes  too  large  for  him :  I  did  better — for,  coming  upon  the  dead 
body  of  an  officer,  I  removed  a  silver-bound  saddle  from  his  head, 
which,  with  silver-mounted  bridle,  handsome  sabre,  and  a  few 
other  articles,  I  appropriated  to  myself.  Indeed,  I  have  never  since 
wondered  at  the  rage  one  feels  for  abstracting  an  enemies'  goods 
and  chattels  on  similar  occasions — such  an  itching,  too,  beyond 
mere  curiosity,  to  search  people's  pockets,  that,  in  a  few  more 
guerilla  excursions,  I  felt  confident  of  becoming  as  good  a  free- 
booter as  ever  drew  a  sword.  Three  months  after  this  affair,  I 
became  great  friends  with  a  Mexican  officer  to  whom  some  of  these 
equipments  belonged.  He  assured  me  there  had  been  six  golden 
ounces  concealed  in  the  saddle,  which  I  readily  believed ;  for  the 
leather-man,  who  renovated  it  in  the  port,  remained  oblivious  six 
weeks  after  completing  his  task.  Love-letters,  miniature,  and  com- 
mission, I  returned  to  my  friend ;  but  the  handsome  sabre — on 
the  blade  of  which  is  engraved,  No  me  saques  sn.  ras-  *,  no  me 


WE  TAKE  TROPHIES.  153 


embanes  sin  honor — Draw  me  not  without  cause,  nor  sheathe 
without  honor — and  saddle,  I  have  retained,  trusting  that  El 
Teniente  Lira  will  acquit  me  of  any  other  motive  than  that  of 
possessing  some  trifling  souvenir  of  our  first  meeting  at  Sigueras. 

We  reached  Mazatlan  at  daylight,  and  after  arresting  two 
members  of  the  municipal  junta,  who  were  occupying  a  seat  in  the 
council,  and  who,  while  expressing  much  sympathy  for  the  Yan- 
kees, had  written  detailed  accounts  of  the  distribution  and  strength 
of  the  garrison,  I  retired  to  my  cool  cot  at  the  Garita,  and  in- 
dulged in  sleep. 

Donning  habiliments  again  towards  evening,  I  mounted  my 
horse,  and  in  riding  to  the  plaza,  had  the  happiness  to  make  the 
acquaintance  of  the  fair  wife  of  Telles,  who  was  en  route  for  the 
Presidio.  Agreeably  to  request,  I  accompanied  herself  and 
suite  beyond  the  Garita,  when  she  informed  me  that  her  liege  lord 
was  highly  indebted  for  allowing  his  weekly  supply  of  cogniac 
to  pass — because  good  liquids  were  rarely  met  with  at  head-quar- 
ters— but  that  I  would  be  doing  him  a  service  by  retaining  a  large 
amount  of  dunning  billets,  that  passed  through  my  hands  to  his 
address.  Promising  to  comply  with  the  Colonel's  wishes,  I  bid 
his  lady  adieu;  but  I  am  sorry  to  add,  that  politeness  to  the 
graceful  seiiora  was  the  innocent  cause  of  my  losing  a  beautiful 
horse ;  for  it  was  quite  dark  on  reaching  the  port,  and  instead  of 
going  whore  I  originally  intended,  I  paused  a  moment  at  the 
bowling  alley,  where,  meeting  some  officers  of  a  British  frigate,  I 
gave  the  bridle  to  a  lepero  to  hold,  and  passed  into  the  building ; 
but  scarcely  had  we  crossed  the  threshold,  when,  startled  by  the 
report  of  fire-arms,  we  all  rushed  out,  and  found  the  poor  animal 
raining  blood  from  a  bullet  in  the  throat.  The  villain  of  a  lepero 


164  CHAPTER  XXIII. 

had  shot  him  with  a  pistol  from  the  holsters.  A  group  of  kind- 
hearted  young  reefers  did  their  best  to  staunch  the  blood,  and  one 
little  fellow  even  tied  his  trowsers  around  the  wound ;  but  all  was 
unavailing,  and  in  ten  minutes  my  spirited  blooded  bay  was  dead. 
Oh !  Mr.  Smithers !  you  keep  a  good  ten-pin  alley,  sing  a  good 
song,  and  your  wife  prepares  good  chocolate ;  you  are,  together, 
good  fellows ;  but  you  should  never,  O !  Smithers !  transform  your 
establishment  into  a  knacker's  yard.  And  you,  my  cruel  leper o  ! 
had  I  ever  got  a  sight  of  you  along  that  weapon  you  handled  so 
well — ah !  I  well  nigh  wept  for  sorrow  that  night,  and  did  not 
recover  my  spirits  for  a  fortnight. 

The  escaramuza  at  Sigueros  was  the  means  of  keeping  the 
roads  free  for  a  few  days ;  but  in  a  fortnight  the  Mexicans  had 
again  taken  position,  and  though  falling  back  some  distance,  were 
yet  enabled  to  cut  off  all  communication  with  Mazatlan.  The  paisa- 
nos,  as  usual,  complained  sadly,  and  asked  protection.  Accordingly, 
an  expedition  was  planned,  under  the  guidance  of  a  diminutive 
ranchero,  who,  after  tracing  paths  and  diagrams  on  paper  without 
end,  in  hopes  his  individual  services  could  be  dispensed  with,  at 
last  determined,  with  many  misgivings,  to  lead  the  way  to  his 
habitation,  where  a  troop  of  lancers  were  wont  to  enjoy  themselves 
upon  his  bounty. 

Early  in  the  evening  a  battalion  of  an  hundred  marines  left  the 
garrison,  but  had  barely  been  gone  an  hour,  when  a  lot  of  fright- 
ened old  women  rushed  to  the  Cuartel,  and  swore  that  a  large 
body  of  troops  were  landing  from  the  estero,  for  the  purpose  of 
Backing  the  town.  Rub-a-dub,  rolled  the  drums — the  walls  were 
manned — and  rockets  went  fizzing  and  bursting  in  the  air,  for 
assistance  from  the  ships.  Meanwhile,  I  was  despatched,  with  a 
small  party,  to  inquire  into  the  truth  of  the  rumor.  After  making 


AN  EARLY  TOILET.  165 

a  thorough  examination  along  the  river,  and  scaring  the  last 
breath  out  of  a  poor  fisherman,  dying  with  fever,  we  were  con- 
vinced the  report  was  merely  a  ruse,  a  sort  of  counter-irritant, 
attempted  by  the  town's  people  to  alarm  the  troops  outside,  and 
call  back  our  men.  The  marines  had  marched  by  the  beach ;  and 
at  midnight,  with  thirty  muskets,  I  took  the  main  route,  and  lay 
in  ambush  at  the  cross  of  the  Culiacan  and  Presidio  roads,  for  the 
purpose  of  intercepting  the  enemy's  retreat,  in  case  they  fled 
towards  headquarters  at  San  Sebastian.  For  nine  hours  we  were 
nearly  flayed  alive  by  rnuskitoes,  and  only  recompensed  for  the 
torture  by  detaining  some  hundreds  of  people  and  their  beasts. 
It  was  quite  diverting  to  observe  a  simple  pedestrian,  stepping 
jauntily  along,  whistling  blithely  away — as  the  natives  always  do 
when  travelling  alone  by  night — when  a  look-out,  perched  high 
upon  an  overhanging  branch,  would  utter  a  sharp  hist !  the  traveller 
would  falter,  and  perhaps  thinking  his  fears  had  misled  him,  again 
pass  on,  and  while  faintly  resuming  his  chirrup,  another  energetic 
summons  would  quite  startle  him,  and  ten  to  one  but  down  he 
would  fall,  crossing  his  breast,  and  ejaculating  a  pious  arc,  puri— 
sima  !  A  tap  on  the  shoulder  would  direct  them  in  the  thickets, 
whore,  squatting  on  the  ground,  they  never  thought  of  moving 
until  permission  was  granted.  Just  at  daylight,  a  stout  brown 
muchacha  came  tripping  by,  and  unconscious  of  our  close  prox- 
imity, seated  herself  on  a  rock,  and  unfolding  a  little  bundle, 
began  to  comb  her  locks  and  attire  in  a  gala  dress,  either  for  the 
Sunday  mass,  or  to  create  a  sensation  upon  entering  the  port. 
After  carefully  arranging  the  camiscta,  and  whilst  in  the  act  of 
throwing,  as  a  woman  only  can  do,  her  lasquina — a  worsted 
petticoat — over  the  shoulders,  one  of  my  ungallant  scamps  hit  her 
a  smart  rap  with  a  pebble.  Giving  one  terrified  scream,  and 


166  CHAPTER  XXIII. 


uttering  a  prayer  to  the  Virgin,  she  dashed  up  the  road ;  but, 
encumbered  by  loose  drapery,  soon  measured  her  length,  in 
the  most  ludicrous  plight,  upon  the  sand.  We  assisted  her  to  rise, 
and  perceiving  our  lurking-place,  she  laughed  heartily,  after 
indulging  the  gay  sailor  fellow  who  threw  the  stone  with  a  speci- 
men of  the  sinews  in  her  stout  arms.  The  women  were,  almost 
invariably,  the  vehicles  for  transmitting  information  concerning 
our  designs  in  town,  to  their  friends  outside ;  among  our  multi- 
form duties  at  the  Garita  was  that  of  opening  all  correspondence 
and  perusing  the  contents.  It  was  surprising  how  shrewd  and 
accurate  were  many  of  their  surmises,  and  the  tender  regard  they 
still  evinced  for  their  forlorn  lovers — at  least  on  paper  ;  and  such 
imploring  billets,  too,  from  the  banished  caballeros,  for  their 
faithless  amantes  to  join  their  fortunes  in  the  camp,  to  rid 
themselves  of  the  hateful  Yankees.  Yet  with  all  their  coquetry 
they  still  did  their  best  to  shield  their  former  friends  from  danger, 
and  so  cunningly,  too,  as  to  be  difficult  of  detection.  On  a  certain 
night,  while  visiting  the  sentinels  at  the  road,  a  negress  came  from 
the  town,  and  in  reply  to  the  hail,  as  was  customary  with  the 
natives,  replied,  norte  Americano !  On  being  told  no  one  could 
pass  before  sunrise,  she  retraced  her  steps,  and  in  attempting  to 
steal  past  by  another  path,  came  near  being  shot,  notwithstanding 
her  cries  of  norte  Americano  !  Upon  making  a  third  effort  some 
hours  later,  my  suspicions  were  aroused,  and  as  we  were  desirous 
of  preventing  all  egress  at  the  time,  to  my  shame  be  it  said,  I 
ordered  her  searched.  Nothing  was  discovered,  and  to  repay  her 
for  the  indignity  she  had  experienced,  I  gave  her  a  kindly  and 
paternal  pat  on  the  wool — there  was  the  object  of  our  search !  a 
little  crumpled  bit  of  paper,  on  which  was  scrawled,  a  la  carrera, 
entre  dos  luces,  los  gringos! — be  off:  the  Yankees  will  be  upon 


A  GUIDE  KILLED.  167 


you  at  daylight !     But  neither  threats  nor  entreaties  could  induce 
the  black  courier  to  betray  the  writer. 

Finding  no  signs  of  the  Mexicans,  we  marched  back  to  Mazat- 
lan  at  noon.  The  marines  shortly  followed,  having  surprised  the 
lanctros,  and  taken  a  number  of  horses,  arms  and  prisoners.  But 
a  damp  was  thrown  over  the  affair,  by  their  bringing  in  the  body  of 
our  little  ranchero  friend,  Madariaga,  who  was  accidentally  killed 
during  the  fray.  Poor  fellow !  he  was  intelligent,  and  we  drank 
out  of  the  same  cup.  The  day  after,  while  riding  through  the 
town,  I  saw  tapers  burning  in  a  house,  and  upon  entering,  there 
was  stretched  the  corpse — still  in  his  bloody  vestments — a  bullet 
had  entered  behind  one  car,  and  passed  out  at  the  other.  A  crucifix 
reposed  upon  the  breast,  whilst  a  common  flat-iron  lay  on  tho 
stomach.  Near  by,  his  sister  was  gazing  mournfully  at  the  blue, 
pinched  face,  while  close  behind  her  stood  an  inhuman  virago, 
anathematizing  him  from  all  the  saints  in  the  calendar,  for  having 
been  a  traidor  y  espiadclos  compatriotas — spy  upon  his  country- 
men. The  Mexicans  asserted  that  he  had  been  deliberately 
assassinated,  and  rejoiced  that  he  had  received  a  worthy  recom 
peiise  for  his  traitorous  conduct. 


CHAPTER    XXIT 

TOWARDS  the  close  of  the  year  we  had  become  quite  domes- 
ticated in  the  town,  and  habituated  to  our  new  duties:  the 
dullness  that  ensued  upon  the  occupation  had  changed  into 
animation,  business,  and  bustle;  the  port  was  thickening  with 
merchant-ships  and  coasters,  and  duties  were  rapidly  rolling  into 
the  Yankee  treasury ;  the  merchants  themselves  had  entered  into' 
arrangements  with  the  Mexican  officials  outside,  and  the  staple 
export  of  the  province — logwood — came  in  on  the  backs  of 
hundreds  of  mules  daily,  to  fill  the  homeward-bound  vessels  for 
Europe.  The  laborious  task  of  the  garrison  still  went  on,  much 
to  the  disgust  of  Jack,  who  swore  ditching  and  hod  carrying  was 
no  part  of  a  sailor's  duty.  The  fever  still  continued,  in  a  milder 
form  ;  but  few  new  cases  ensued,  although  those  who  convalesced 
almost  invariably  relapsed,  and  were  never  entirely  cured  until 
going  again  upon  salt  water.  The  townspeople  began  to  look 
less  gloomily  upon  their  invaders,  and  the  men  were  not  averse  to 
finger  Uncle  Sam's  cash  ;  and  the  women,  bless  their  sweet,  for- 
giving souls,  sought  the  main  plaza  in  the  afternoons,  arrayed  in 
tastefully  flowing  robes,  and  graceful  ribosas,  whilst  their  surpris- 
ingly diminutive  feet  beat  time  to  the  music  from  our  bands. 


HOW  THEY  MARRY  IN  MAZATLAN.  169 

Nor  were  they  chary  of  flashing  glances,  or  murmured  salu- 
tations ;  and  in  the  calm  nights,  when  pianos  and  harps  were 
disturbing  the  still  air,  it  was  not  regarded  as  a  novelty  to  behold 
a  few  blue-jackets,  spinning  around  in  dance  and  waltz  at  the 
fandangos,  or,  as  the  more  tonnish  were  termed,  bayles. 

The  native  society  of  Mazatlan  cannot  certainly  boast  of  a 
very  elevated  tone  of  morality.  Indeed  I  have  good  authority  for 
asserting  that  there  were  not  fifty  legitimately  married  couples  in 
the  town — rather  a  small  proportion  for  ten  thousand  inhabitants : 
perhaps  the  marriage  formula  is  considered  a  bore,  and  since  even 
tho  rite  within  pale  of  the  church  is  not  so  religiously  respected  as 
elsewhere,  it  appears  unreasonable  that  they  should  place  any 
legal  check  upon  their  domestic  felicity.  Still  this  system  of 
relatione,  as  so  generally  practised  in  Mazatlan,  appeared  to 
work  well,  and  we  never  heard  of  lawsuits  for  children.  Occa- 
sionally, it  is  true,  a  jealous  master  would  thrust  a  cuchillo  into 
the  tender  bosom  of  his  spouse ;  but  what  of  that — it  was  cos- 
tumbrc  fid  pais  ;  however,  these  were  tho  exceptions. 

Among  the  lower  orders,  the  women  were  invariably  gifted 
with  amiable  dispositions,  natural  in  manner,  never  peevish  or 
petulant,  requiring  but  little,  and  never  happier  than  when  moving 
night  after  night  in  the  slow  measure  of  their  national  dances. 
Even  the  men  were  not  bad-tempered,  though  beyond  comparison 
the  laziest  and  most  ignorant  set  of  vagabonds  the  world  pro- 
duces. They  were  a  quiet  people  also,  never  so  far  forgetting 
their  natal  sloth,  as  to  go  through  the  exertion  of  making  a  noise. 
Even  their  knife  encounters  were  conducted  with  a  certain  show 
of  dignity  and  decorum.  For  example,  at  the  esquina  of  some 
street  is  a  group  of  leperos — gentlemen  throughout  the  Republic 
of  Mexico,  enjoying  the  same  moral  attributes  as  Neapolitan 
8 


170  CHAPTER    XXIV. 


Lazzaroni ; — their  property  at  all  times  on  their  backs,  and  resi- 
dences precarious ;  they  are  playing  inonte  on  a  coarse  blanket 
or  serapa  laid  upon  the  ground  ;  one  accuses  another  of  cheating, 
and  at  the  same  time  twits  him  with  the  most  deadly  insult  a 
Spaniard  can  offer,  possibly  because  it  is  so  near  the  truth : 
tv,  eres  cornudo ;  true  or  false,  his  antagonist  calls  on  all  the 
saints  to  bear  witness  to  his  innocence,  springs  to  his  feet, 
twists  a  serapa  around  the  left  arm,  and,  before  one  can  say  Jack 
Robinson,  their  keen  blades  are  playing  in  quick,  rapid  passes, 
seldom  giving  over  until  deep  and  sometimes  fatal  stabs  are 
interchanged ;  but  if  not  seriously  hurt  thdy.  drink  a  cup  of 
aguadiente  together,  light  cigarillos,  and  continue  the  game  until 
another  quarrel  arises.  These  little  passages  of  arms  were  of  hourly 
occurrence,  and  the  severest  regulations  were  .not  sufficient  to 
repress  the  evil,  although  there  never  was  a  solitary  instance, 
during  our  stay,  where  a  quarrel  had  arisen  between  the  towns- 
people and  the  garrison.  I  chanced  to  be  an  eye-witness  to  one 
of  these  street  skirmishes  one  evening,  near  the  Sociedad.  A 
fellow  received  a  perpendicular  cut,  which  severed  nearly  half  the 
scalp,  and  the  entire  ear,  leaving  the  mass  hanging  down  the 
neck,  like  a  flap  to  a  pocket-book  ;  it  was  properly  dressed  by  a 
skilful  surgeon,  and  the  man  was  about  again  in  six  days.  Indeed 
the  climate  was  most  efficacious  for  wounds,  and  remarkable  and 
most  extraordinary  cures  were  said  to  be  effected ;  two  of  a 
serious  nature  came  under  our  observation.  The  first,  a  sailor- 
sergeant,  who,  while  returning  from  his  rounds,  and  walking  up 
the  Garita  hill,  not  replying  to  the  sentinel's  hail  from  above,  in  a 
sufficiently  loud  tone  of  voice,  received  a  musket-ball  in  his  right 
breast,  which  wounded  the  lung,  and  passed  out  of  the  back, 
below  the  shoulder-blade :  the  case  was  aggravated  by  a  severe 


SAILOR  CAVALRY.  171 

and  lengthened  attack  of  fever,  but  the  man  eventually  recovered, 
and  was  entirely  restored  to  health  and  strength.  The  second 
instance  was  a  young  Mexican  officer,  named  Soriano,  who  was 
shot  by  a  rifle-bullet  at  Unas,  transversely  through  the  breast, 
beneath  the  ribs.  After  suffering  some  months,  under  a  quack,  he 
was  brought  to  Mazatlan,  where  he  was  successfully  treated  by 
one  of  our  surgeons,  with  every  prospect  of  speedy  recovery. 

Of  late,  we  had  had  no  guerillas  worth  mentioning,  and  were 
amusing  ourselves  by  drilling  a  troop  of  sailors  into  dragoons  ;  and 
truly  it  was  a  matter  of  as  much  satisfaction  as  mirth,  to  see  how  well 
the  seamen  accomplished  their  task ;  of  course,  it  was  great  sport  for 
them,  but  naturally  fearless,  and  all  well  mounted,  they  soon  were 
taught  to  dash  recklessly  at  anything,  from  a  stone  wall  to  the  fire 
from  a  battery,  and  in  due  course  of  time,  became,  for  a  sudden 
burst,  quite  equal  to  any  Mexican  emergency  that  chose  to  stand 
the  brunt  of  a  charge.  We  never  had  the  opportunity  of  testing 
their  cavalryship,  but  I  think  they  would  have  made  a  creditable 
report  of  themselves.  They  were  commanded  by  Captain  Luigi, 
and  at  intervals  I  had  the  satisfaction  of  accompanying  his 
troop  on  short  excursions  into  the  interior.  One  night  we 
took  a  flying  gallop  down  to  Urias.  On  the  way  thither,  over 
the  level  marismas,  the  Captain's  charger  plunged  into  a  hole 
and  the  whole  left  file  vaulted,  or  trampled,  over  him,  but,  as 
usual,  he  escaped  with  the  loss  of  a  little  parchment  from  the 
visage,  while  the  horse  had  a  broken  shoulder.  On  nearing  the 
vicinity  of  our  former  escaramuza,  I  passed  ahead  with  four  men, 
and  found  the  prize  we  sought,  in  a  Mexican  soldier,  who  proved 
to  be  the  orderly-sergeant  of  General  Urrea,  the  Governor  of 
Durango.  Our  prisoner  was  quite  taciturn  at  first,  but  on  the 
assurance  that  he  would  certainly  be  hung  the  following  morning, 


172  CHAPTER  XXIV. 


and  after  profuse  libations  of  muscal — a  country  liquor— he  opened 
his  mouth  and  confidence,  informing  us  that  he  had  left  an  escort 
at  the  Presidio,  and  when  taken  was  awaiting  some  effects  belong- 
ing to  his  master,  from  the  port,  to  be  carried  to  Durango.  At 
daylight,  the  articles  were  seized  ;  but,  owing  to  the  fact  that  some 
innocent  persons  were  drawn  into  the  transaction,  the  Governor 
good-naturedly  signed  passports  for  the  whole  party,  including  the 
soldier ;  although  his  master,  the  General,  bore  no  enviable  repu- 
tation, for  the  cruelties  he  had  perpetrated  upon  American  pri- 
soners on  the  other  side  of  the  continent. 


CHAPTER    XXV. 

THE  new  year  dawned  upon  us,  and  January  and  February 
passed  rapidly  away.  The  popularity  of  the  Mexican  Command- 
ante,  Telles,  was  waning  fast.  A  number  of  his  own  officers  had 
pronounced  against  him — but  this,  with  a  few  effective  followers, 
was  speedily  put  down,  and  the  leader  shot.  However,  a  strong 
force  from  Culiacan  was  raised  by  the  powerful  family  of  Vegas, 
the  legitimate  Governor  of  Sonora — and  from  whom  Telles  had 
wrested  the  command  of  Mazatlan — in  conjunction  with  a  body  of 
three  hundred  troops,  under  one  Romero,  from  the  opposite 
extreme  of  the  province  Tepic,  and  resolved  to  gain  the  ascend- 
ancy by  destroying  our  blockaders.  Upon  the  approach  of 
these  bodies,  Telles'  troops  refused  to  fight  against  their  country- 
men, and  nothing  was  left  for  their  old  captain  but  to  succumb 
to  circumstances ;  these  ups  and  downs,  however,  being  not  uncom- 
mon in  Mexico,  the  chagrin  attending  the  disgrace  is  not  taken 
seriously  to  heart.  After  a  week's  intrigue  and  negociations, 
finding  his  enemies  implacable,  he  resigned  his  authority,  was 
then  betrayed,  arrested,  sent  to  Guadalajara  under  a  guard,  where 
he  shortly  afterwards  expired.  His  case  excited  much  sympathy, 
for  he  bore  the  reputation  of  being  brave  and  generous,  lavishing 
all  he  received  upon  the  treacherous  friends  about  him,  who 
flattered  and  cheated,  until  adversity  stalked  in,  when  away  fle\y 


174  CHAPTER  XXV. 


the  gay  birds  who  had  made  him  their  prey.  One  of  these  gentry 
did  me  the  honor  to  present  himself  late  one  night  at  the  Garita, 
claiming  parole  as  a  deserter  from  the  Mexicans.  He  had  been 
chief  of  the  staff  and  cavalry,  bore  the  name  of  compadre — adviser 
and  rascal-in-general  to  Telles — but  having  had  the  sagacity  to 
cram  his  filthy  pockets  with  fifty  thousand  wheels  of  fortune,  of 
course  had  no  further  wish  to  remain.  He  pointed  out  all  the 
weak  positions,  avenues  of  attack,  and  general  information  con- 
cerning the  force  of  the  outsiders — more,  I  was  convinced,  to  vent 
his  spite  on  those  whom  he  had  already  betrayed,  than  from  regard 
to  us.  On  parting,  the  gallant  major  favored  me  with  a  note  of 
introduction  to  one  of  his  lady-loves,  coming  from  the  interior, 
and  remarked,  with  a  pecuniary  sigh,  that  when  commanding  my 
little  post  he  never  made  less  than  a  thousand  pesos  a  month.  It 
was  upon  the  Mexican  system — where  the  strong  steal  from  the 
weak :  but  here  was  my  captain  of  battalion,  Mr.  Mitch  and 
myself — with  all  the  trouble  of  guarding,  examining,  quarelling, 
and  at  times  beating,  hundreds  of  paisanos  daily,  and  devil  the 
centavo  could  we  ever  extort ;  on  the  contrary,  our  exchequer  was 
at  a  deplorably  low  ebb,  so  much  so  that  we  were  scandalously 
accused  of  playing  monte  for  quartillos — fippcnnybits  ; — and  we 
discussed  the  alternative  of  taking  to  the  road,  robbing  a  con- 
ducta  of  mules  laden  with  money,  or  remaining  in  the  port  until 
peace  should  be  declared,  inciting  a  pronunciamento,  and  declaring 
ourselves  cornmandantes  of  the  province. 

The  united  force  of  the  Mexicans  who  had  assembled  in  Rosa- 
rio,  amounted  to  one  thousand,  three  hundred  of  which  were 
cavalry,  and  seven  pieces  of  artillery.  They  talked  bravely  of 
driving  the  Yankees  on  board  the  ships,  and  were  constantly  drilling 
and  exercising  their  troops  and  guns.  Vegas'  proclamations  were 


ARMY  DIFFICULTIES.  175 

clear  and  business-like ;  he  established  an  internal  duana,  or  custom 
house  ;  declared  a  specified  and  moderate  scale  of  duties — having 
the  sense  to  perceive  that  soldiers  must  be  fed,  and  although  rich 
himself,  he  had  no  inclination  for  playing  commissary  at  his  own 
expense — and  besought  the  merchants  of  the  port  to  send  their 
merchandize  to  the  interior.  All  these  warlike  preparations 
caused  us  neither  alarm  nor  trepidation.  Our  works  were  near 
completion,  and  we  had  twenty-six  guns  mounted,  besides  the 
additional  security  of  some  small  hulks,  moored  at  a  ford  of  the 
estero,  mounting  a  battery  of  Paixhans.  The  garrison  had  been 
slightly  increased,  and,  altogether,  we  felt  confident  of  holding  the 
port  against  any  odds.  The  merchants,  however,  were  as  yet  shy 
of  trusting  their  valuable  property  within  reach  of  Mexican  rapa- 
city, and  consequently,  the  troops  were  beginning  to  find  them- 
selves somewhat  embarrassed.  The  commanders  quarrelled,  and 
Vegas  himself,  being  heartily  disgusted,  forthwith  fell  back,  with 
troops  and  artillery,  towards  Culiacan,  leaving  a  fourth  part  of 
his  force,  under  charge  of  Romero — a  miscreant,  who  had  the 
reputation  of  assassinating  his  own  colonel,  at  the  storming  of 
Chapultepec,  for  a  beltfull  of  doubloons.  Being  thus  left  without 
the  means  of  doing  us  any  injury,  they  pursued  the  same  annoying 
process  as  their  brethren  before  them,  by  robbing  their  own  coun- 
trymen, under  the  odious  alcobala. 

During  all  this  time  we  never  for  a  moment  ceased  keeping  up  a 
rigid  discipline,  and  exercising  the  utmost  vigilance ;  the  severest 
punishment  was  impartially  meted  to  all  offenders ;  and  our  know- 
ledge of  the  topography  of  the  country,  for  some  miles  round, 
being  quite  equal  to  the  Mexicans',  they  had  good  reason  to 
keep  beyond  our  limits.  At  rare  intervals,  indiscreet  persons 
would  try  to  run  the  gauntlet  into  town,  and  one  dark  night,  three 


176  CHAPTER  XXV. 


troopers,  not  seeing  our  guard,  attempted  ts  steal  in  by  the  beach : 
one  was  astounded,  on  not  halting  at  the  hail,  at  receiving  a  bullet 
through  the  shoulder,  and  they  then  turned  bridles,  leaving  us  a 
brass-bound  hat  and  lance,  as  keepsakes.  Indeed,  once  we  came 
nigh  peppering  our  own  patrol ;  fortunately,  but  one  ball  only 
flew  over  Captain  Luigi's  head.  It  may  have  been  a  peculiarity 
of  some  of  our  sailor  sentinels,  that,  at  night,  they  immersed 
themselves  breast  deep  in  little  pits,  resting  their  muskets  upon 
mounds  of  sand  in  front,  at  a  dead  aim  upon  whoever  advanced 
along  the  roads.  I  do  not  know  if  this  kind  of  tactics  be  tolerated 
by  Regulation ;  but  Jack,  in  his  ignorance  of  minute  detail,  had 
to  place  reliance  on  his  eyes. 

Once,  after  hearing  the  report  of  a  musket,  I  inquired  of  the 
sentry  the  cause.  "  Sir,"  said  he,  "  the  chap  wouldn't  stop,  so  I 
hailed  him  in  the  very  best  Spanish,  and  then  fired ;  there  he 
lies  kickin',  up  the  road,  sir!"  It  turned  out  to  be  an  innocent 
stray  jackass,  a  bad  linguist,  who  could  only  converse  in  his 
mother  tongue.  However,  these  little  incidents  convinced  our 
neighbors  that  security  did  not  throw  us  off  our  guard. 

We  still  worked  hard  at  the  Garita — deepening  the  ditch — 
filling  up  embrasures,  and  raising  the  walls.  It  was  fatiguing 
labor,  for  the  heavy  stone  had  to  be  wheeled  from  the  base  of  the 
hill.  Already  strong  frames  of  timber  had  been  erected  at  angles 
in  the  walls,  where  three  twelve-pounder  short  guns  moved  on 
quadrants,  overlooking  the  parapet,  and  sweeping  the  hill  in  every 
part,  while,  near  the  centre  of  the  little  fortress,  a  beautiful  long 
brass  nine  traversed  on  a  circle,  that  could  throw  the  iron  mes- 
sengers two  miles  over  the  plains  below.  The  sides  of  the  building 
facing  the  lagoons  were  planked  up,  enclosing  spacious  piazzas, 
and  sheltering  the  men  from  nightly  malaria  borne  along  by  the 


THE  CASA  BLANCA.  177 


land  winds.  The  men  were  obliged  to  keep  their  quarters  per- 
fectly clean,  and  they  slept  comfortably  in  hammocks  suspended 
from  beams  above.  Everything  went  on  regularly — they  had 
long  since  given  up  bad  habits  of  drunkenness — and  out  of  the 
entire  company,  but  two  drew  their  allowance  of  spirits.  Four 
old  dames  came  with  the  early  dawn,  bringing  coffee  and  choco- 
late, which  they  exchanged  for  surplus  rations  and  the  privilege 
of  washing  Jack's  clothes.  Liberty  was  occasionally  granted  to 
visit  the  port,  and  every  day  two  or  more  were ,  gunning  around 
the  lagoons,  keeping  the  post  supplied  with  quantities  of  delicious 
wild  ducks  and  curlew,  and,  when  the  moon  was  full,  numbers  of 
terrapins.  We  had  strict  inspection,  morning  and  evening.  At 
nightfall,  sentries  were  doubled  on  the  hill  and  roads— the  guard 
set — guns  primed — matches  lighted — and  everything  ready  at  a 
moment's  notice.  I  am  thus  minute  in  describing  these  unim- 
portant details  about  the  Garita,  for  it  was  my  first,  and  most 
probably,  will  be  my  last  attempt  at  soldiership.  Besides  being 
a  great  source  of  pride  and  pleasure,  it  was  the  spot  where  I  have 
passed  many  happy  hours.  Indeed,  it  was  the  only  decent  or 
habitable  post  pertaining  to  the  garrison ;  and  I  deem  it  not  amiss  to 
state,  that,  had  a  twentieth  portion  of  the  quarter  million  of  dollars 
collected  by  us  through  the  customs,  been  judiciously  expended  in 
restoring  the  old  Cuartel,  and  providing  a  few  necessary  comforts 
the  sailors  required,  it  would  in  a  measure  have  repaid  them  for 
toils  and  hardships  on  ship  and  shore,  where  they  were  necessarily 
obliged  to  undergo  many  expenses,  in  a  service  apart  from  the 
line  of  their  duty.  And  furthermore,  a  due  regard  to  their  personal 
comfort  might  have  been  the  means  of  reducing  the  medical 
estimates,  and  at  the  same  time,  of  saving  many  a  poor  fellow, 
whose  bones  now  moulder  beneath  the  sod.  But  notwithstanding 
8* 


178  CHAPTER  XXV. 

these  drawbacks,  it  was  gratifying  to  the  officers  who  commanded 
them,  to  know,  that,  even  amid  the  novelty  of  their  position,  they 
reflected  credit  on  their  country,  and  left  an  excellent  impression 
behind  them,  among  the  Mexicans  themselves. 

Many  of  the  officers  who  had  been  detailed  for  service  at 
the  Garita,  were  eventually  obliged,  on  the  score  of  health,  to 
leave  for  more  healthy  posts ;  and  in  the  end,  Mr.  Mitch  and 
myself  were  the  only  ones  left.  Our  quarters  were  immediately 
over  the  men,  in  a  large  square  apartment,  the  ceiling  taking  the 
angle  of  the  roof ;  two  balconied  windows  faced  the  sea ;  another 
overlooked  the  port  and  estero,  while  a  large,  roomy  piazza  com- 
manded a  wide  and  extensive  view  of  the  surrounding  plains, 
dotted  by  fields  and  ranches,  with  a  high  wall  of  mountains  in  the 
back  ground.  When  in  the  town  the  heat  was  almost  insupporta- 
ble ;  in  our  casa  blanca  it  was  never  in  the  least  degree  oppressive. 
We  always  slept  under  a  blanket,  in  white  canvas  cots,  swinging 
from  the  rafters,  curtained  off  by  bunting.  Bathing  was  our  chief 
delight,  and  the  green  waves  well  nigh  broke  at  the  base  of  the 
hill,  where  we  played  in  the  foaming  surf  for  hours  each  day. 
We  had  breakfast  brought  from  the  French  hotel  in  the  town, 
which  incident  happened  about  eleven  o'clock,  on  a  table  screened 
off  in  the  piazza.  Coffee  we  sipped,  with  a  spoonful  of  cogniac, 
before  the  morning's  bath,  to  drive  away  the  malaria.  So  we 
drank  light  bordeaux  with  the  meal,  and  when  nice  fruit  passed 
the  Garita,  made  a  selection,  in  lieu  of  the  abolished  alcobala. 

Ah,  dear  Mitch,  those  were  pleasant  days  !  And  do  you  ever 
recall  our  pleasant  little  suppers  by  night — our  cosy  confabs — our 
sage  reflections — quiet  moralizings  and  speculations  upon  the 
reverses  of  fortune,  after  an  interview  with  Don  Manuel — and 
our  schemes  for  reform  Ah,  my  boy,  those  bright  days  have 


MADRE   MARIA  AND  JUANA.  179 

vanished.  Then  came  the  afternoon's  pasear,  with  a  troop  of 
officers,  or  the  good  hospitable  merchants  of  the  port — showy  horses, 
jingling  trappings,  coursing  and  capering  along  the  sea-road ; — 
to  the  plaza  again  in  time  for  music,  with  a  bow,  or  smile,  as  the 
case  might  be,  to  some  gracefully-robed,  tiny-footed  dona  ;  then 
a  few  prancing  vueltitas  to  show  off,  around  the  square,  when  we 
gave  spur  for  dinner. 

Just  without  the  range  of  our  guns  was  a  ranchito,  owning  for 
its  mistress  a  jolly  dame,  named  Madre  Maria ;  it  was  not  for 
her  that  we  occasionally  extended  our  evening's  ride,  but  for  a 
halt-uttered  adios !  Capitan !  from  the  pearly  teeth  of  little 
Juanita.  I  believe  there  never  was  so  much  dirt  and  beauty 
combined.  She  was  the  sweetest  mite  imaginable,  and  of  a  style 
to  have  destroyed  Mjirillo's  slumbers.  Then  pretty  Juana  suf- 
fcre.l  from  calenturas — fever  and  ague, — and  I  at  times  carried  a 
little  phial  of  quinine,  and  felt  Juana's  pulse  and  temples,  but  the 
jolly  patrona  would  shake  her  head  roguishly,  and  exclaim,  jest- 
ingly,— No  cs  possible,  SeTior  Chato,  sin  matrimonio — you  can't 
make  love  without  marriage.  Ah !  pica  largo,  I  would  reply, 
son  razon,  pcro  llama  vd  el  padre  Molino — certainly,  so  send  for 
Father  Windmill.  We  had  a  private  code  of  signals  with 
Maria,  to  hang  a  "  banner  on  the  outward  walls,"  in  shape  of  a 
white  petticoat,  whenever  the  Mexican  troops  came  within  hail. 
She  mortally  detested  them,  for  they  made  too  free  with  her  hen- 
roost, and  muscal  bottles ;  and  on  her  weekly  pilgrimages  to  the 
port,  seated  on  a  quiet  mule,  with  pretty  Juana  behind,  attired 
in  her  holiday  dress,  and  Jesusita,  the  youngest  and  most  diminu- 
tive piece  of  womanhood,  tripping  along  the  road  beside  them, 
they  would  pay  us  a  visit  at  the  casa  blanca,  with  some  little 
present,  of  eggs  or  fruit ;  and  the  brave  old  lady  would  invariably 


180  CHAPTER  XXV. 


beseech  us  for  a  loaded  carbine  para  fusilar  Ins  ladrones—~to  shoot 
the  scamps.  Once  I  saw  the  signal  with  the  spyglass,  and 
attended  by  a  friend  rode  out  to  the  rancho  ;  but  it  was  a  false 
alarm,  caiised  by  an  old  white  horse  standing  lazily  behind  the 
pickets.  We  found  the  group  of  Maria  and  daughters  washing 
in  the  lagoon,  nearly  all  in  dishabille  :  Juanita  with  naught  but  a 
flimsy  chemisetta,  not  a  ceinture  around  the  little  waist,  revealing 
the  most  adorable  juste-milieu  form — between  the  bud  and  the 
rose — with  rich  masses  of  dark  hair  covering  her  shoulders,  and 
rivalling  in  beauty  the  splendor  of  her  eyes.  I  drove  the  old  lady 
into  the  pond,  for  which  indecorous  behavior  she  launched  a 
calibash  of  wet  clothes  at  my  head,  then  snatching  up  little 
Jesusa,  just  four  years  old,  I  bore  her  to  the  beach  for  a  dip  in  the 
surf.  "  How  rich  you  are,"  said  the  little  creature,  as  I  com- 
menced disrobing.  "  Why  ?  " — "  Because  you  wear  stockings." 
And  this,  indeed,  is  one  of  the  distinctive  marks  of  wealth  among 
the  lower  orders  throughout  Mexico. 

It  not  unfrequently  happened,  that  reports  were  circulated/ 
without  much  foundation,  that  the  troops  outside  were  about  to 
attack  the  post,  and  as  a  consequence  the  timid  farmers  living  in 
the  environs  became  alarmed,  and  would  send  their  families  to  seek 
shelter  within  the  fort.  At  times  we  would  be  gratified  with  fifty 
or  sixty  women  and  children  visitors,  huddled  together  quite  con- 
tented and  merry  about  the  piazzas.  They  had  learned  to  place 
full  reliance  upon  their  invaders,  and  whatever  course  we  adopted 
was  looked  upon  as  the  only  correct  and  proper  mode  of  acting. 
While  testing  the  range  of  our  guns  one  morning,  a  carronade 
•was  accidentally  discharged,  and  a  stand  of  grape-shot  struck  the 
lagoon  below,  dashing  a  shower  of  spray  over  a  group  of  old 
oronea  washing  on  the  banks.  I  immediately  ran  down  to  see  if 


IEXICAN   SENORAS.  181 

they  wore  wounded,  but  I  found  them  quite  cool,  and  even  sur- 
prised that  I  should  have  surmised  such  a  thing.  "  Why  ?  "  said  I. 
Porqm,  Capitan,  listed  cs  capaz  para  qualquiera  cosa — because 
you  Yankees  ha  re  sense  for  everything. 

On  Sundays  our  receptions  were  more  select ;  then  the  elite  of 
Mazatlan  extended  their  promenades  around  the  works  of  the 
garrison,  and  would  be  induced  to  ascend  the  hill,  and  sip  dulces 
or  italia  at  our  quarters  in  the  casa  blanca.  The  gentlemen 
would  glance  over  the  newspapers  detailing  revolutions  or  pro- 
nunciamentos  in  the  interior,  when  casting  up  their  eyes,  with  a 
simultaneous  puff  of  cigar  smoke,  would  exclaim — Ay!  pobre 
Mexico !  and  one  had  the  sense  to  observe,  that  the  war  was 
death  to  Mexicans,  but  life  to  Mexico.  But  of  one  fact  no  logic 
could  convince  them — that  our  worthy  collector  of  the  Duana 
returned  all  he  received  to  the  government — so  wonderful  a  dis- 
pensation, that  an  honest  administrador  could  be  found  in  any 
position  was  entirely  beyond  their  comprehension.  The  ladies 
were  generally  very  curious  and  inquisitive,  and  after  affording  all 
the  information  we  possessed,  relating  to  domestic  economy  and 
dress,  once  a  pair  of  lovely  scnoras,  after  mature  reflection, 
apparently  having  made  up  their  minds,  favored  me  in  this 
strain :  "  Without  doubt,  you  North  Americans  are  very  good 
people,  and  you  don't  beat  your  wives ;  but  then  you  don't 
know  how  to  lavish  money  on  ladies  like  our  own  countrymen  ! " 
But  I  interposed — "  We  feel  obliged  to  pay  our  debts,  and  then 
pleasure  afterwards."  "  Bah  que  importa,"  said  they  ;  "  all  we 
know  is,  that  where  you  Yankees  give  a  dollar,  our  people  shower 
gold." 


CHAPTER    XXVI. 

SOON  after  the  occupation  of  Mazatlan,  I  made  the  acquaint- 
ance of  a  young  Mexjcan  girl,  of  a  respectable  family  in  Guada- 
lajara, who  had  eloped  with  her  lover,  an  officer  stationed  in  this 
province.  She  was  better  educated,  far  more  intelligent  than 
the  generality  of  her  countrywomen,  and  with  all  the  graceful, 
winning  ways,  peculiar  to  Creoles.  She  was  living  with  an  old 
relative,  in  a  cottage  near  the  skirts  of  the  town,  and  I  fre- 
quently sought  her  society,  listened  to  the  low,  sweet  cangiondtas 
of  her  native  land,  or,  seated  beneath  the  shade  of  a  spreading 
tree  in  the  inner  patio ,  she  would  recite  by  the  hour  old  legend- 
ary redondillas  and  ballads  of  Mexico,  while  her  servant  played 
with  the  sweeping  masses  of  her  jet-black  hair :  she  was  very 
proud  of  it,  and  often  told  me,  that  when  she  became  poor,  it 
would  serve  her  for  a  mantilla.  She  had  soft  feminine  features, 
pale  complexion,  lighted  by  large,  languid,  dark  eyes.  She  was 
a  tall  and  slender  girl,  but  with  the  smallest  feet  I  ever  beheld. 
This  was  Dolores.  Her  mind  appeared  to  partake  of  the  mourn- 
ful signification  of  her  name,  and,  even  during  her  gayest  moments, 
she  was  always  tinged  with  sadness.  Poor  Lola !  she  was  think- 
ing of  her  lover,  who  had  left  with  the  troops  on  our  coming. 

Returning  one  morning  from  a  fatiguing  night  skirmish,  the 
servant  Tomasa  met  me  on  the  road,  and  placed  a  note  in  my 


LOLA'S  LOVER.  183 


hand  from  her  mistress.  It  was  simply  a  desire  to  see  me. 
Without  going  to  the  quarters,  I  turned  my  horse's  head  towards 
the  town,  and  soon  dismounted  at  the  house.  The  old  aunt 
received  me  with  some  agitation,  and  I  could  see  the  shadow  of 
Dolores  reflected  from  an  inner  room.  Quc  hay  SeJior  1  Nada, 
una  escaramuza,  no  mas  !  Ymucrtos?  Quien  sabe!  puede  ser  tin 
oficial  dc  ustedes. — What's  the  news?  Nothing  but  a  skirmish. 
Any  killed  ?  Yes,  perhaps  one  of  your  officers.  At  this  reply, 
Dolores  entered  the  chamber,  and  with  a  quick  low  voice,  asked, 
"and  the  color  of  his  horse,  softer?  white!"  She  burst  into 
tears,  and  sank  to  the  floor.  I  afterwards  learned  that  it  was  her 
lover,  who,  however,  had  only  been  slightly  wounded.  He  had 
been  in  the  habit  of  entering  the  port  disguised  as  an  arriero,  and 
was  expected  on  the  morning  alluded  to.  Had  I  known  what  he 
was  capable  of  doing  at  a  later  day,  he  might  have  lost  the  number 
of  his  mess,  instead  of  receiving  a  buckshot  in  the  leg. 

From  this  period,  poor  Dolores  became  more  and  more  triste 
and  depressed.  She  never  was  seen  again  in  the  plaza — the 
music  had  lost  its  charm — her  books  were  thrown  aside,  and  she 
would  hardly  mingle  in  conversation.  Some  weeks  went  by,  and 
duty  claiming  all  my  time,  I  had  not  called  for  many  days.  Late 
one  night,  Tomasa  came  running  to  the  Garita,  and  with  breath- 
less haste,  told  me  that  her  mistress  was  very  ill,  and  wished  to 
see  me.  A  few  minutes'  gallop  took  me  to  the  door.  The  old 
lady  was  weeping,  and  poor  Lola  was  lying  upon  a  low  couch, 
with  blood  slowly  frothing  from  her  lips — but  I  thought  there  was 
a  gleam  of  pleasure  in  her  eyes.  She  had  burst  a  bloodvessel — at 
least  I  imagined  so  at  the  time,  and  I  instantly  despatched  a  boy  on 
my  horse  for  a  surgeon.  In  the  sequel  I  discovered  the  cause 


184  CHAPTER  XXVI. 


Tomasa  informed  me,  she  had  heard  the  Senora  scream,  and  upon 
entering  the  room,  found  her  lying  insensible  on  the  ground,  deluged 
in  blood,  and  on  coming  to,  she  had  begged  her  to  say  nothing,  but 
send  for  me.  The  fact  was,  that,  her  lover  had  again  stolen  into 
town,  and  whether  from  idle  jealousy,  or  natural  brutality  of  dis- 
position, had  the  dastardly  cruelty  to  beat  the  poor  unresisting 
girl,  with  the  hilt  of  a  pistol,  until  she  fell  lifeless  from  heavy 
blows  showered  upon  her  breast  and  shoulders.  This  was  fully 
shown  by  the  post-mortem  examination.  The  miscreant  fled,  and 
many  an  hour  of  sound  sleep  he  cost  me,  in  hopes  of  getting  a 
glimpse  of  him  along  the  tube  of  a  rifle. 

At  the  time,  there  was  a  chance  of  recovery ;  and  daily,  after 
the  hemorrhage  ceased,  I  sat  by  her  bed-side,  and  tried  to 
encourage  her  with  anticipations  of  returning  health.  No! 
no !  me  roy  a  morir — It  is  all  useless, .  I  am  going  to  die  ! — 
counting  with  her  thin  fingers — "  in  three  weeks !  Ay  de  mi  ! 
for  one  last  sight  of  my  native  land."  Sometimes  I  would  read 
to  her  a  Spanish  translation  of  Sue's  Mysteries  of  Paris,  and  she 
never  tired  of  saying  of  Fleur  de  Marie,  Pobrecita!  que  dolor  !— 
Poor  thing !  what  suiferings !  She  was  gradually  sinking,  but 
still  her  spirits  rose,  and  her  big  black  eyes  became  more  and 
more  luminous.  It  was  sorrowful,  indeed,  to  see  a  young  girl,  so 
beautiful  and  bright,  just  bidding  adieu  to  life. 

She  had  the  best  medical  attendance,  but  another  hemorrhage 
ensued,  and  the  lamp  of  life  was  fading  fast.  At  last,  Tomasa 
came  for  me :  Dios  de  mi  alma  !  la  Senora  se  estd  moriendo — My 
mistress  is  dying.  I  found  the  sick  chamber  filled  with  women, 
and  a  priest,  while  a  number  of  tapers  threw  a  strong  light  upon 
the  nearly  breathless  sufferer.  The  padre  soon  accomplished  his 
drawling  work — a  crucifix  was  pressed  to  her  pallid  lips — the  bed 


DEATH  OF  DOLORES.  185 


and  floor  sprinkled  with  holy  water — a  hasty  are  was  muttered, 
and  they  then  withdrew.  Fortunately,  a  sister  had  arrived  a  few 
days  previously,  and  it  was  a  great  consolation  to  the  dying  girl. 
I  drew  near,  and  seated  myself  at  the  couch.  She  placed  her 
limp  little  hand  in  mine — told  her  sister  to  sever  a  tress  from  her 
hair  when  she  was  dead — and  drawing  a  ring  from  her  finger, 
smiled  faintly,  saying,  acucrdese  de  mi  amistad — remember  me 
kindly.  An  hour  passed,  and  I  was  forced  to  leave — indeed, 
while  every  breath  came  fluttering  to  the  lips,  weaker  and  weaker — 
I  could  not  bear  to  sec  the  last — I  whispered  adios,  kissed  her 
pale  forehead,  and  wont  away. 

She  expired  just  at  midnight.  During  the  whole  period  of  her 
illness,  she  never  once  murmured  a  reproach  against  her  lover, 
but  left  him  a  blessing  when  she  died.  If  such  beautiful  devotion 
has  not  heaped  coals  of  fire  on  his  head,  he  is  less  than  man. 

The  night  following  her  decease,  I  was  seated  on  a  tombstone 
in  the  little  cemetery  near  the  port,  when  my  eye  was  attracted 
by  a  flickering  torch,  and  advancing,  I  met  the  corpse.  We  made 
five  in  all.  The  grave  was  open,  and  we  lowered  her  gently 
down.  All  was  still,  save  the  convulsive  sobs  of  Mafiuela,  and 
the  rolling  earth  falling  upon  the  coffin — the  dew  sparkled  by  the 
reflection  of  the  blazing  torch — the  work  was  done — light  extin- 
guished, and  mourners  gone.  Alas !  poor  Dolores  !  I  have  pre- 
served your  tress  and  ring,  and  time  has  not  yet  erased  the 
remembrance  of  your  love  and  sufferings  from  a  stranger's  breast 


CHAPTER    XXVII. 

WE  could  not  boast  of  an  opera,  or  any  grand  theatrical  dis- 
plays in  Mazatlan  ;  but  yet  our  sailor-troops,  as  sailors  always  do 
when  unemployed,  had  contrived  a  Thespian  corps,  and  weekly 
representations  were  given,  by  stout  tars  in  whiskers  and  petti- 
coats— and  once  a  grand  tableau  in  commemoration  of  Stockton's 
victories  at  La  Mesa.  There  was  a  pretty  theatre  in  town, 
where  a  little  ranting  was  done,  and  there  was  the  usual  Sunday 
resort  in  the  cock-pit,  where  a  deal  of  dollars  changed  hands,  but 
the  greatest  spectacle  of  any  was  in  the  arena,  where  we  were 
favored  by  brilliant  feats  of  horsemanship,  by  Mr.  Bill  Foley,  of 
Circo  Olimpico  notoriety,  in  conjunction  with  his  "  ingin-rubber 
boy."  He  was  a  useful,  amusing  vagabond,  who  had  passed  more 
than  half  his  life  in  Mexico,  and  went  by  the  savage  title  of 
El  tigre  del  norte.  The  Tiger,  upon  the  claims  of  national  rela- 
tionship, applied  for  the  office  of  collector  to  the  port,  but  not 
being  successful,  he  deigned  to  accept  the  high  position  of  forage 
master  to  the  troop,  but  whether  owing  to  his  prompt  method  of 
settling  accounts,  or  the  sphere  not  being  sufficiently  enlarged  for 
his  abilities,  he  threw  up  the  commission  in  disgust,  declaring  his 
countrymen  were  the  "  ungratefullest  people  in  the  world,"  and 
again  devoted  his  talents  to  dress,  love,  monte,  and  the  arena. 
The  last  accounts  of  Bill,  he  was  starring  it  away  like  a  planet 


MONTE.  187 


in  the  interior  of  Chili.  May  bright  dollars  attend  thee,  Bill,  in 
whatsoever  portion  of  the  globe  thy  destiny  directs  thee. 

Added  to  these  public  divertmientos,  there  were  the  sociedads, 
where  the  necessary  aliment  of  Mexican  existence  was  in  constant 
operation.  This  was  monte — our  usual  resort  was  that  of  the 
gran  sociedad,  conducted  by  Don  Manuel  Carbia ; — he  was  a 
diminutive  old  Spaniard,  very  shrewd  and  intelligent,  and  among  his 
numerous  occupations  was  that  of  a  proprietor  of  launches,  keeper 
of  an  almacen  of  ship  chandlery  on  the  Mole,  divers  pulperias, 
billiard-tables,  restaurateur,  and  pawnbroker  in  general.  Senor 
Carbo,  as  our  beloved  Colonel  Jacobus  called  him,  was  never 
seen  without  a  cigar  between  his  teeth  ;  it  acted  as  a  kind  of  safety 
valve  to  his  vital  organs,  and  it  was  strongly  surmised  that  if  he 
ever  discontinued,  for  an  interval  of  five  minutes,  he  would 
inevetably  choke  to  death.  Seated  behind  the  long  green  baize- 
covered  table,  with  his  implements  of  cards  and  dollars  around 
him,  the  very  chink  of  the  coin  lighted  up  his  dark  visage,  like  to 
a  fresh  cigar.  Pie  merely  played  for  amusement — so  he  said — and 
although  he  amused  himself  considerably  at  our  expense,  yet  we 
had  no  grounds  for  just  complaint ;  he  played,  bucno  como  cabal- 
kro — fair  and  above  board, — and  if  we  lost  our  cash,  it  was  in 
striving  to  win  his.  Once  if  my  memory  serves  me  aright,  when 
mounted  on  the  caballo — the  picture  of  a  horse  on  Spanish  cards — 
I  kicked  Don  Manuel  so  severely,  that  his  teeth  chattered  like  a 
pair  of  castanets — but  this  did  not  often  occur. 

There  was  another  odd  character,  who  kept  a  cam  de  bebida,  near 
the  Cuartcl,  where  the  officers  sometimes  touched  in  passing.  No 
one  knew  what  nation  claimed  him  as  a  subject — he  was  a  fat 
mottled-visaged  Boniface,  whom  the  Mexicans — as  they  always 
nick -name  every  one — had  christened  the  "  Golden  Toad."  The 


188  CHAPTER  XXVII 


toad  played  melodiously  on  the  flute,  supposed  to  be  a  mild  resto- 
rative to  soothe  the  sorrows  consequent  upon  the  unfortunate 
state  of  his  domestic  relations. 

The  carnival  was  not  carried  on  with  much  spirit,  nor  was 
Lent  regarded  with  the  same  pious  severity  as  in  other  Catholic 
countries.  The  Mazatlanese  are  not  a  pious  people ;  there 
were,  to  be  sure,  a  few  processions,  and  fire-works,  accompanied 
by  a  wooden  piece  of  artillery,  discharging  salvos  of  sugar-plums, 
with  nightly  fandangos,  but  this  was  all. 

Our  intercourse  and  diversions  were  not  restricted  to  native 
society,  for  we  also  enjoyed  a  pleasant  association  with  foreign  resi- 
dents. The  circle  of  our  own  countrymen  was  limited — the  Consul, 
good  Doctor  Bevans — who  gave  us  a  grand  feast  on  leaving, — and 
the  Anglo-American  house  of  Mott  &  Talbot.  From  all  of  these 
gentlemen  we  experienced  the  utmost  civility ;  but  to  Mr.  Mott 
and  his  amiable  lady  we  stand  indebted  for  many  and  repeated 
acts  of  kindness  and  hospitality,  that  never  can  be  too  gratefully 
remembered. 

Not  only  in  Mazatlan  but  all  over  the  world,  the  great  firm  of 
"  Mynheer  and  Company  "  chase  the  dollars  with  as  keen  a  scent 
as  the  Yankees  ;  and  there  is  not  a  nook,  however  remote,  where 
these  thriving  Germans  are  not  filling  their  sacks,  but  still  their 
thirst  for  gold  does  not  prevent  the  pleasures  of  "  faderland " 
from  being  re-enacted  in  their  far-away  homes.  There  was  one 
jolly  Belgian  there — a  large,  handsome,  jovial  blade,  ever  on  the 
vive  for  fun  or  punch, — his  house,  like  himself,  was  lofty  and 
capacious,  with  a  cellar  over  the  way,  where  one  might  wish  to  live 
until  it  became  dry.  And  the  Hern  Hutter,  too.  Will  eye  of 
thine,  my  pleasant  friends,  ever  glance  at  this  tribute  to  your 
virtues?  Let  us  recal  those  delightful  evenings.  Old  Jack's 


LIFE  IN  MAZATLAN.  139 


oysters,  and,  mem  gott !  that  delicious  arrack — when  shall  we 
ever  taste  the  like  again  ? — with  the  piano  tinkling,  and  the 
rich  sonorous  voice  of  portly  Hausen  chanting  the  solemn  ave 
purissima  until  the  very  paving-stones  rattled,  and  the  lovely 
lips  of  his  pretty  wife  were  held  in  a  painful  state  of  wide- mouthed 
laughter.  Where  art  thou,  O  !  Hern  Hutter !  dost  remember 
Piny  and  Luigi,  even  until  the  matins  were  tolling,  when  we 
mounted  our  steeds — your  own  the  famous  piebald  charger — and 
never  checked  rein,  until  tumbling  in  the  sparkling  surf  upon  the 
sands  ? 

Besides  these  warm-hearted  fellows,  there  was  another  to  whom 
my  heart  still  yearns,  and  no  time  can  ever  banish  the  love  I  bear 
him.  He  was  the  beau-ideal  of  a  John  Bull — burly,  surly,  brave, 
obstinate,  and  strong  in  his  likings  or  dislikings.  We  met  at  first, 
neither  in  a  pleasant  mood ;  I  was  the  aggrieved  person,  for  he 
permitted  me  to  mistake  him  for  a  Mexican,  and  talk  bad  Spanish 
half  an  hour,  when  he  coolly  broke  ground  in  Anglo-Saxon.  But 
time  removed  first  impressions,  and  in  his  little  cottage  by  the 
shore,  at  his  generous  board,  and  in  fact  in  very  many  ways  he 
loaded  me  with  favors  and  hospitalities,  which  I  shall  always 
recur  to  as  among  my  brightest  recollections  of  the  past.  And 
truly  it  is  not  in  great  cities,  or  teeming  ports,  where  merchants 
are  seen  to  social  advantage ;  it  is  in  out-of-the-way  spots — far, 
far  away — when  least  expected,  that  the  traveller  finds  warm 
hearts  and  firm  friends — and  none  more  so  than  in  Mazatlan. 

I  was  a  daily  guest  of  Don  Guillcrmo's,  at  the  cottage. 
Dinner  over,  and  a  rubber  at  whist,  I  usually  strolled  about  the 
town — peeped  in  at  the  fandangos — perhaps  a  shy  at  monte — 
thence  to  arrack — music,  jolly  Hausen,  and  so  home  to  my  quar- 
ters. Though  a  sort  of  vaut-rien  existence,  still  it  was  one  quite 


190  CHAPTER  XXVII. 


in  consonance  with  my  tastes,  and  since  I  am  not  at  all  competent 
for  a  clerkship,  if  any  of  my  former  friends  can  employ  me  as  a 
smuggler,  or  in  any  other  nautical  "and  honest  pursuit,  I  shall  be 
most  happy  to  comply  with  their  terms. 

For  a  short  period,  these  my>  amusements  were  unpleasantly 
interrupted,  and  came  within  an  ace  of  being  finally  closed  in 
eternity.  Sitting  one  night,  in  a  moralizing  mood,  by  my  friend, 
Mr.  Mitch,  during  a  pause  in  conversation,  we  were  startled  by 
the  long  rolling  sound  of  the  drums,  beating  the  alarm  from  the 
Cuartel.  The  sentries  shouted  from  the  walls,  for  the  men  to 
get  under  arms,  and  snatching  up  hat  and  pistols,  we  rushed  out. 
The  night  was  quite  dark,  with  thick  fog ;  besides,  I  was  nearly  blind- 
ed from  a  lighted  room ;  and  mistaking  the  stairs  by  a  few  inches, 
I  walked  off  the  piazza — a  height  of  fourteen  feet — falling,  most 
fortunately,  between  three  men  coming  out  from  below,  with  fixed 
bayonets,  and  escaped  being  impaled,  by  a  slight  wound  in  the  wrist. 
I  was  picked  up  insensible,  and  my  companion  thought  even  burnt 
brandy  would  prove  unavailing.  However,  on  coming  to,  and 
being  duly  jerked  about  the  legs  and  arms,  no  bones  being  frac- 
tured, I  was  found  whole,  with  the  exception  of  some  severe 
contusions  in  legs,  back  and  head.  After  all  the  row,  the  gen- 
erals was  only  beaten  by  way  of  precaution.  For  some  days  I 
was  confined  to  my  cot,  without  being  able  to  move,  consoled, 
however,  by  lots  of  agreeable  visitors — bottles  of  liniment — good 
cigars — alleviated  by  the  sympathies  of  an  admirable  young  nurse. 
There  I  was,  reposing  "  in  ordinary,"  swinging  backwards  and 
forwards.  From  one  window  I  could  see  green  plains  and  lagoons 
stretching  away  to  the  distant  hills ;  and  from  the  balconies,  long 
strings  of  mules,  with  their  cargoes,  and  could  hear  the  shrill  whistles 
and  cries  of  the  arrieros,  urging  the  perverse  brutes  in  either 


SCENES   FROM   THE  CASA  BLANC  A.  19 1 


direction.  The  borders,  too,  of  the  lagoons  were  dotted  with 
groups  of  women  and  children  washing ;  and  whenever  I  took  a 
too  long  glance  through  the  telescope,  at  some  brown  half  nude 
figure,  I  was  sure  to  attract  the  attention  of  my  black-eyed  nurse, 
who  cunningly  would  place  her  finger  before  the  lens.  I  always 
chose  the  mornings  to  study  or  write,  when  the  clear,  cool  sea- 
breeze  was  beginning  to  fan  the  polished  surface  of  the  water,  as 
the  swell  rolled  rippling  on  in  gentle  undulations  towards  the 
beach — while  swarms  of  pelicans  sailed  sluggishly  along,  until 
sighting  their  prey,  when,  with  a  dart  like  a  flash,  they  parted 
the  waves  in  concentric  circles  around,  and  rested  contentedly  on 
the  water,  packing  away  the  little  fishes  in  their  capacious  pouches. 
Then,  if  our  little  house-keeper  was  "docile,  and  not  mimicking 
the  Colonel,  for  she  detested  tae  sight  of  a.  book,  I  would  draw 
the  table  to  my  cot,  and  enjoy  an  hour's  tranquillity.  But  when, 
later  in  the  day,  the  breeze  began  to  roughen  the  sea  into  light 
caps  of  foam,  causing  the  waves  to  break  heavily  upon  the  shore, 
then  the  windows  began  to  struggle  and  slam,  books  and  papers  to 
whirl  across  the  room,  until  I  was  glad  to  put  by  everything,  and 

say,  amigita  canta sing,  my  little  friend.     She  would  purse  up 

her  roguish  lips  in  mimic  affectation,  and  then,  in  a  lively  strain, 
begin  some  provincial  ditty — 

"  En  la  Esquina  de  casa, 
Unoficial  mihablo." 

Yet  there  are  no  alleviations  that  can  recompense  a  person  of 
active  habits  for  being  laid  up,  even  in  lavender.  In  a  few  days 
I  was  able  to  sit  a  horse,  and  soon  after,  perfectly  restored. 

Thieving  and  pilfering  were  practised  among  the  lower  orders, 
in  an  almost  equal  degree  to  knife  combats.  Leperos  are  thieves 
and  liars  by  profession,  and  their  coarse  serapas  serves  to  conceal 


132  CHAPTER  XXVII. 


all  their  peccadillos.  The  Spectator  tells  us,  that  in  the  days  of 
Charles  IIj  a  rascal  of  any  eminence  could  not  be  found  under 
forty.  In  Mazatlan  they  were  more  precocious.  Eating,  sleeping 
and  drinking,  they*could  easily  dispense  with,  for  a  handful  of  beans 
and  the  open  air  was  an  economical  mode  of  life,  and  cost  little 
or  nothing :  but  a  few  rials  were  absolutely  indispensable  to  game 
with  on  feast  days ;  and  as  the  Leperos,  as  a  body,  are  not  fond 
of  work,  they  exercised  their  ingenuity  in  appropriating  property 
of  others.  I  had  escaped  their  depredations  so  long,  that  I  fancied 
there  was  nothing  worth  niching  in  my  possession,  or  innocently 
supposed  there  was  some  kind  of  freemasonry  established  between 
us.  However,  I  was  soon  undeceived.  One  morning,  according 
to  custom,  Miss  Rita  made  her  usual  call,  attended  by  some  gay 
friends,  and  all  attired  in  their  prettiest  robes  and  ribosas: — 
"  Would  I  read  an  anonymous  billet  in  verse  r"  Si  Senorita. 
"  You  are  appointed  Teniente  de  la  tripa^ — a  ball  given  annually 
by  the  butchers.  "  Then,  would  I  meet  her  at  the  grand  fandango 
in  the  marisma  ?"  Of  course.  "  Pues  hasta  la  noche  amigo  mio  /" 
and  away  they  tripped  down  the  hill  in  high  glee.  In  the  even- 
ing after  dinner  at  the  cottage,  in  company  with  Sefior  Molinero, 
we  strolled  to  the  fields.  A  large  marquee  had  been  erected  in  the 
middle  of  the  open  space,  and  around  were  smaller  affairs,  with 
numerous  booths,  sparkling  with  lights,  music  and  merriment.  It 
was  not  a  very  select  affair,  and  I  took  the  precaution  to  loosen 
my  sword  in  its  sheath.  Presently  we  entered  into  the  spirit  of 
the  frolic,  and  were  soon  hand  in  hand  with  leperos  and  their 
sweethearts — sipping  from  every  cup — whirling  away  in  waltzes 
— dancing  to  the  quick  jarabie,  and  making  ourselves  particu- 
larly ridiculous  when,  presto !  some  expert  thief  snatched  my 
sword  blade  from  the  scabbard.  Search  was  instantly  made, 


THIEVING  LEPEROS.  193 


but  the  successful  lepcro  'made  good  hi.s  prize,  and  escaped. 
The  girls  sympathized  with  me,  and  poor  Rita  cried,  and, 
regardless  of  being  vice-queen  of  the  ball,  insisted  upon  leav- 
ing— so  bounding  up  before  me  on  horseback,  I  landed  her  at 
her  little  cottage.  The  night  was  not  half  spent,  so  turning 
rein,  I  indulged  my  friend  Seiior  Carbia  with  a  hasty  visit — 
not  at  all  to  his  satisfaction,  for  the  fickle  goddess  smiled 
upon  me ;  but  as  a  slight  check  to  this  good  fortune,  another 
watchful  person  had  stolen  a  valuable  pistol  from  my  holsters 
while  the  horse  was  standing  in  the  patio,  with  a  man  to  guard 
him.  At  the  time  I  would  certainly  have  presented  the  ladron 
with  my  winnings  for  the  pleasure  of  giving  him  the  contents  from 
the  remaining  weapon ;  but  eventually  I  became  more  of  a  philo- 
sopher— was  robbed  at  all  times  unmercifully,  and  looked  upon  it 
as  a  destiny.  One  of  our  good  commissaries  was  also  a  suf- 
ferer. Being  lodged  in  a  small  dwelling  by  himself,  every  few 
days  he  was  regularly  cleaned  out  of  hi-3  \vardrobe,  and  fre- 
quently obliged  to  fly  trowserless  to  a  neighbor's  for  a  change  of 
raiment.  I  once  had  the  happiness  to  detect  a  youth  in  a  petty 
act  of  larceny.  Him  I  had  carefully  conveyed  to  the  Garita, 
when  the  sailors  made  what  they  call  a  "  spread  eagle  "  of  him, 
over  the  long  gun.  It  was  a  summary  process,  and  I  sincerely 
believe,  had  a  tendency  to  repress  his  rising  predilections  for  the 
future. 


CHAPTER    XXVIII. 

IN  the  month  of  March  the  first  positive  information  relating  to 
rumors  of  peace  reached  Mazatlan.  It  was  agreeable  news  to  a 
few  former  empleados  of  the  customs  and  courts,  all  idle  and  dis- 
affected vagabonds,  but  the  majority  of  peaceably-disposed  citizens 
and  foreign  residents  were  averse  to  our  departure  ;  they  had  so 
long  been  oppressed  by  Mexican  misrule,  intrigue,  and  extortion, 
that  the  law,  order,  and  tolerant  state  of  things  existing  under 
our  sway,  presented  a  too  pleasing  contrast  not  to  sigh  for  a  con- 
tinuance of  it. 

One  of  the  brothers,  Vaso  vil  Vaso — gentlemen  who  stood 
deservedly  high  in  public  estimation — had  been  appointed  Gov- 
ernor of  the  Province,  and  in  defence  of  the  conduct  of  his  fellow- 
citizens  who  had  remained,  and  accepted  office  in  Mazatlan,  he 
published  a  pamphlet  in  Guadalajara,  giving  a  narrative  of  former 
grievances,  with  a  truthful  account  of  our  proceedings ;  also 
speaking  in  high  terms  of  commendation  of  the  legality  and 
justice  that  had  characterised  our  policy  since  the  occupation  of 
the  port. 

The  Mexican  force  outside  evinced  no  disposition  to  molest  us, 
and  ere  this  we  had  discovered  that  it  was  time  thrown  away  to 
pursue  them  :  there  was  no  fighting  to  be  had,  petty  skirmishing 
was  all  that  had  been  accomplished ;  want  and  desertion  were 


A  COURTEOUS  VISIT.  195 

rapidly  thinning  their  ranks ;  the  commanders  were  at  swords' 
points,  and  their  only  resources  were  derived  from  the  miserable 
pittance  extorted  by  the  Alcobala — in  fact,  they  were  fast 
devouring  one  another.  At  this  juncture,  Vegas  having  with- 
drawn his  guns  and  disbanded  the  troops  in  Culiacan,  was 
threatened  by  Romero  wrtli  an  attack,  in  case  the  artillery  was 
not  sent  back.  For  this  piece  of  mutiny  Romero  was  dismissed  the 
army,  and  the  military  command  of  the  province  devolved  on  a 
respectable  officer  named  Don  Juan  Pablo  Anaya,  who  made  his 
headquarters  at  the  Presidio,  with,  however,  but  a  mere  handful 
of  soldiers. 

On .  the  last  day  of  March  the  official  notification  of  the 
armistice  was  promulgated  in  the  port.  A  few  days  previous,  late 
in  the  afternoon,  some  arricros  informed  mo  that  a  number  of 
Mexican  soldiers  were  collecting  a  little  revenue,  a  short  distance 
up  the  road,  and  then  I  perceived  a  signal  flying  from  the  rancho 
of  Madre  Maria.  This  was  a  heinous  offence,  to  come  within 
long  range  of  our  guns  ;  so  sending  a  small  party  by  the  beach,  I 
rode  out  myself.  We  arrived  a  minute  too  late — the  dust  from 
their  horses  was  just  subsiding.  The  patrona  was  in  a  towering 
passion,  said  there  had  been  a  brace  of  officers,  and  four 
dragoons,  making  merry  in  the  house  ;  knocking  the  necks  off 
poultry  and  bottles,  and  demanding  toll  from  the  paisanos, 
Juanita  added,  that  one  of  the  gentlemen  had  desired  his 
memorias  left  at  the  Garita !  a  piece  of  politeness  I  was  quite 
unprepared  for.  Returning  to  town,  I  forthwith  went  in  quest  of 
the  Governor.  He  was  afloat,  nor  was  the  Captain  of  the  Cuartel 
to  be  found.  What  to  do  I  knew  not ;  it  would  have  been  a  great 
breach  of  decorum  not  to  repay  the  courtesies  of  my  afternoon 
visitors,  so  I  concluded  to  consult  with  a  compadre.  Towards 


196  CHAPTER  XXVIII. 


midnight  I  met  Captain  Luigi,  who  being  in  want  of  exercise,  agreed 
to  take  the  relief-patrol,  and  accompany  me  ;  the  officers  on  duty, 
Mr.  Baldwig  and  Earl,  made  up  the  party.  Ten  was  our  number, 
and  the  horses  half  wild  with  spirits.  We  had  an  inkling  of  the 
whereabouts  of  our  amigos,  as  there  was  to  be  a  grand  fiesta  on 
the  morrow,  some  leagues  up  the  Culiacan  road,  at  the  village  of 
Venadillo  ;  and  as  there  was  to  be  dancing  and  frolicking,  it  did 
not  seem  improbable  that  the  Mexican  advance-guard  should 
bivouac  in  the  neighborhood.  There  was  a  round  white  moon  to 
light  us,  and  away  we  leaped  at  a  slapping  pace  towards  the 
hamlet.  A  league  this  side  we  fell  in  with  a  cpuple  of  paisanos, 
one  of  whom  not  replying  to  our  questions,  with  any  due  regard  to 
truth,  concerning  the  locale  of  the  troops,  was  speedily  forced  to 
mount  behind  one  of  the  patrol.  In  three  bounds,  he  allowed 
himself  to  tumble  to  the  ground,  but  having  his  intellect  sharp- 
ened by  a  sound  kick  from  the  horse  in  the  head,  he  then  thought 
it  advisable  to  cling  on  like  wax  ;  moreover,  his  fears  induced  him 
to  tell  a  straight  story,  and  we  soon  came  in  sight  of  the  village. 
The  entire  place  was  filled  with  mules  and  jackasses,  their  loads 
of  fruit,  vegetables,  and  drinkables  lying  beside  them,  awaiting 
the  great  jollification  of  the  succeeding  day.  In  front  of  a  large 
house,  were  seated  on  the  ground  some  fifty  or  sixty  curious 
persons,  who,  to  save  time,  were  'attentively  playing  monte,  on 
their  serapas,  lighted  by  paper  lanterns.  Dismounting  a  few 
rods  in  the  rear,  and  leaving  the  horses  in  charge  of  two  men,  we 
silently  approached  the  assembly,  and  taking  position,  I  stepped 
up,  and  tapped  a  swarthy  fellow  on  the  shoulder;  he  turned 
around,  and  upon  recognizing  me,  exclaimed  with  much  astonish- 
ment, Aqui  estdn  los  gringos — Holy  Moses,  here's  the  Yankees ! 
The  whole  audience  began  leaping  to  their  feet,  but  merely 


SLUMBERS    DISTURBED.  197 


pointing  to  the  levelled  weapons  behind,  we  besought  them  to 
resume  their  seats,  and  not  utter  a  syllable,  or  a  carbine  might 
accidentally  explode,  and  drive  a  bullet  through  some  one's  head. 
Thereupon  they  again  took  up  the  cards ;  when  clapping  a  pistol 
to  an  intelligent  person's  ear,  we  gave  him  five,  seconds  to  point 
out  the  stopping  place  of  the  Commandante.  "  Here,"  said  he, 
jerking  his  thumb  over  his  shoulder,  "  here,  in  the  big  rancho." 
Y/os  soldados  ?  Mas  por  alia  en  la  arloleda  !  Quantos?  Halm 
cosa  de  ciiicuenta  dragoncs  I — Where  arc  the  troops  ?  Up  yonder 
in  the  grove  ! — about  fifty.  This  was  no  joke,  we  thought,  to  be 
within  musket-shot  of  five  times  our  number  ;  but  since  no  alarm 
had  yet  been  made,  we  resolved  to  seize  the  Administrador.  We 
walked  to  the  door,  and  struck  a  few  heavy  blows.  Quicn  es  1 " 
said  a  gruff  voice.  Another  blow  from  the  hilt  of  a  sabre. 
Soldados  !  fucgo  ! — fire  ! — was  the  reply.  Aha  !  so  you  have  a 
guard,  Seilor,  and  we  instantly  placed  a  thick  wall  between  our 
persons,  that  the  balls  might  circulate  through  the  door,  and 
meet  with  no  resistance  or  obstruction  on  the  outside ;  but  no 
report  or  explosion  following  the  command,  we  detected  the  ruse, 
and  assured  the  individual  within,  that  if  he  did  not  make  himself 
visible.,  we  would  return  the  compliment  in  earnest.  This  threat 
unbolted  the  door,  and  in  a  moment  I  slapped  El  Senor  Valverde 
— that  was  his  cognomen — on  the  shoulder  ;  and  after  apologising 
for  disturbing  his  slumbers,  at  so  unreasonable  an  hour,  through 
anxiety  to  return  his  visit  in  the  earliest  possible  time,  desired  him 
to  equip  in  all  haste  for  a  little  excursion  to  the  port.  He  could 
not  forbear  laughing,  notwithstanding  his  fright.  We  gave  him 
leisure  to  drink  half  a  bottle  of  brandy,  and  put  on  a  clean  shirt ; 
when  he  gave  up  his  papers,  and  assured  us,  with  a  gratified 
smile,  that  he  had  that  very  day  sent  all  the  cash  to  head- 


198  CHAPTER  XXVIII. 


quartern  And  now  we  said,  "  Amigo,  where's  your  horse  ? " 
"  All,"  he  replied,  "  there  is  one  here,  but  let  nie  send  to  the 
corral  for  another."  The  next  instant,  we  found  him  whispering 
to  a  small  boy  cruising  around  our  legs ;  but  pointing  a  naked 
sabre  to  El  Sefior's  throat,  we  gave  both  him  and  the  juvenile  to 
understand,  that  whispering  was  not  allowable  in  polite  society, 
and  he  would  oblige  us  by  mounting  the  cavallo  that  stood  ready 
at  the  door,  without  further  ceremony.  While  this  was  going  on, 
our  friends,  Baldwig  and  Earl,  were  inspecting  the  outbuildings, 
and  came  upon  the  captain  of  the  troop  in  a  very  ambiguous 
position.  He  jumped  up  in  his  shirt,  and  flew  away  like  the 
wind.  There  was  now  no  tune  to  be  lost :  collecting  a  lot  of 
handsome  arms  and  equipments,  our  horses  were  brought  up,  we 
leaped  into  the  saddle,  tossed  two  dollars  to  the  patrona,  who 
swore  some  one  had  stolen  a  sheet ;  said  adios !  to  the  monte  men, 
who  gave  us  shouts  of  viva  !  and  appeared  quite  as  well  pleased 
as  ourselves. 

"  Then  ho  !  ho  !  hurry  !  hopp,  hopp,  hopp. 

Rode  off  the  troop,  with  never  a  stop, 

Until  all  gasped  together." 

We  came  bounding  back  the  twelve  miles  within  the  hour, 
and  after  giving  Mr.  Valverde  a  supper,  were  safely  housed  and 
asleep  before  daylight.  But  now 'it  came  the  prisoner's  turn  to 
laugh  at  us.  I  had  hardly  opened  my  eyes  the  next'  morning,  when 
an  orderly  came  from  the  Governor  !  What's  to  pay  now  ?  thought 
I,  and  off  I  rode  to  the  Cuartel.  On  the  way  I  met  Captain  Luigi, 
with  a  most  serio-quizzico  expression  of  visage,  just  from  an  inter- 
view. After  being  announced,  in  I  walked.  "  Good  morning, 
sir."  "  So,  sir " — a  pause — "  you  had  the  presumption  to 
detach  a  force  from  the  garrison  last  night,  and  go  many  miles 


LAST   PRISONER  OF   THE  WAR.  199 

into  the  interior  ? — I  arrest  you,  ,sir — consider  yourself  arrested, 
sir — you  and  Mr.  Luigi  both,  "sir."  "But,  Governor,"  I  ven- 
tured to  remark,  "let  me  explain;  I  thought  you  would  be 
pleased,  and  a — "  "  No  explanation,  sir — pleased  indeed  ! — 
when  you  knew  the  armistice  had  been  signed  ! "  However,  in 
the  end,  the  Governor,  who  was  a  good  amiable  gentleman, 
consented  to  believe  that  no  disrespect  was  intended,  and 
received  our  apologies.  Whereupon  we  wrote  a  letter  that 
brought  tears  to  his  eyes ;  he  asked  us  to  dinner,  and  so  the  affair 
terminated.  Mr.  Valverde  had  all  his  arms  and  chattels  restored 
—very  much  to  the  chagrin  of  Mr.  Baldwig,  who  had  already 
apportioned  a  saddle  unto  his  own  keeping — got  a  good  breakfast, 
and  was  escorted  beyond  our  lines  with  muchos  cumplimientos.  The 
red-headed  wretch  never  passed  me  afterwards  without  a  face  full 
of  sardonic  winks  and  grins.  But  from  that  moment,  we  resolved 
never  to  be  again  patriotic  on  our  own  responsibility ;  and  our 
only  consolation  was  in  knowing  that  we  had  made  the  last 
prisoner  during  the  war. 

Some  days  after,  one  of  our  men  deserted.  He  was  intercepted 
by  the  Mexicans,  and  since  the  armistice  had  been  declared,  a 
message  was  sent  to  the  Governor,  expressing  a  willingness  to  give 
him  up.  I  attended  the  flag  of  truce,  as  interpreter.  Not  finding 
the  escort  at  the  place  designated,  we  were  requested  by  a  Mexican 
officer  to  proceed  along  the  Presidio  road.  Passing  Urias,  we  gal- 
lopped  on,  league  after  league,  until  within  a  mile  of  headquarters, 
where  we  were  politely  received  by  a  guard  and  an  officer,  sent  to 
conduct  us  to  the  General.  The  old  town  of  Mazatlan,  or  Presidio, 
is  situated  on  a  broad  plain,  with  a  rapid,  shallow,  limpid  stream, 
coursing  beside  it.  In  times  past,  it  was  a  place  of  some  import- 
ance ;  and  the  ruins  of  large  almacens,  a  dilapidated  church,  spa- 


200  CHAPTER  XXVIII. 


cious  dwellings,  barracks  and  plazas,  still  keep  up  the  belief. 
Yet,  as  the  port  was  found  to  possess  such  manifest  advantages 
for  all  commercial  purposes,  the  old  town  was  nearly  depopulated 
for  the  new,  and  the  residents  were  even  induced  to  leave  their 
pure  stream  of  water,  for  the  brackish  element  nearer  the  sea. 
The  road  is  excellent,  and  adapted  for  artillery,  but  every  rood 
presents  capital  spots  for  ambuscades,  and  it  would  have  required 
much  caution  to  have  approached  and  surprised  the  Presidio,  as 
we  had  originally  intended.  As  we  forded  the  stream,  and  entered 
the  town,  the  whole  population  turned  out  to  behold  los  Yankees — 
dogs  barked — mothers  held  up  their  children — and  dirty  troops 
tried  to  stare  us  out  of  countenance.  We  were  conducted  to  a 
range  of  buildings  facing  the  plaza,  and  presented  to  the  com- 
mander-in-chief,  General  Anaya.  He  had  a  pleasant  European 
visage — tall,  well-made,  dignified  and  gentleman-like  in  his  bearing 
and  address — numbering,  may  be,  some  sixty  years.  We  stated 
the  business  which  brought  us  to  his  notice,  and  after  some  few 
inquiries  from  his  officers,  he  informed  us,  that  the  officer  who 
had  apprised  the  Governor  was  unauthorized  to  do  so ;  that  the 
deserter  had  already  escaped — which  was,  indeed,  the  politest 
possible,  and  at  the  same  time  sensible  way  of  telling  us  that  we 
could  not  have  him.  He  then  cooled  us  off  with  a  cup  of  claret 
and  cigars ;  hoped  all  national  difficulties  were  about  to  cease ; 
regarded  the  United  States  as  the  mother  of  Republics ;  boasted 
that  he  had  been  present,  and  wounded  at  the  battle  of  New 
Orleans,  as  aid  to  Jackson ;  and  finally,  turned  us  over  to  the 
kind  offices  of  his  staff.  Our  horses,  meanwhile ,  had  been  well 
cared  for,  and  three  hours  aftor  noon  we  were  escorted  outside 
the  lines,  and  reached  the  port  at  night. 

The  next  day  I  was  ordered  to  proceed  again  to  the  Presidio, 


THE  PRESIDIO  OF  MAZATLAN.  201 

with  a  flag  of  truce,  to  communicate  an  official  copy  of  our  armistice, 
and  request  a  conference,  to  arrange  certain  articles  pertaining 
thereto.  As  we  did  not  get  there  until  late  in  the  afternoon,  the 
escort  and  myself  were  billeted  for  the  night  upon  the  Commis- 
sary General,  Don  Isidro  Berubcn,  who  did  the  honors  of  his  house 
with  great  liberality  and  attention,  to  say  nothing  of  the  sweet 
smiles  of  his  charming  little  daughter  Chonita.  We  slept  soundly 
and  rose  early,  walked  around  the  town,  saw  the  graves  of  eight 
long  bronze  cannon,  about  three  hundred  troops  exercised,  and  were 
introduced  to  scores  of  officers.  They  were  all  delighted  at  the 
armistice,  and  on  tiptoe  to  get  leave  once  more  to  visit  the  port, 
which  they  somehow  regarded  as  a  little  Paris.  They  overwhelmed 
me  with  interrogatories  about  their  friends  and  sweethearts :  where 
were  the  Manuelas,  Madelinas,  Antonias,  Josephas — pobrecitas! 
how  they  must  have  suffered !  and  were  they  all  true  to  their  old 
lovers  ?  Of  course  they  were — and  I  vouched  for  the  truth  of  the 
statement 

As  the  General  had  not  a  reply  prepared,  we  remained  to  a 
breakfast  given  by  our  host.  There  were  some  thirty  officers  at 
table — a  number  <5f  generals,  and  all,  I  believe,  colonels :  the 
Mexican  army  is  well  manned  in  the  higher  grades.  The  break- 
fast passed  off  well,  with  no  absurd  toast-making,  and  an  hour 
after  its  termination,  Don  Pablo'  reqifc^ted  many  mcmorias  to  the 
American  Commodore  and  governor,  adding  that  he  would  be 
pleased  to  meet  our  commissioners,  as  soon  as  he  was  able  to  mount 
his  horse,  being  at  the  time  somewhat  troubled  with  a  complaint  of 
the  larrica.  Then  entrusted  with  a  despatch,  I  had  the  honor  of 
making  my  conge — Adios  senores  !  Adios  amigo !  hasta  luego  !  and 
so  we  parted. 

There  were  one  or  two  articles  of  the  armistice  that  had  been 
9* 


202  CHAPTER  XXVIII. 


signed  in  Mexico,  which  could  not  have  been  intended  to  meet 
the  exigencies  of  ports  on  the  Pacific,  and  at  the  conference  which 
ensued,  the  Mexicans,  in  return  for  relinquishing  the  alcobala,  de- 
manded the  privilege  of  collecting  duties  levied  upon  the  coasting 
trade — it  seemed  a  bagatelle  that  we  might  easily  have  conceded, 
for  it  was  absolutely  necessary  that  some  means  should  be  granted 
for  their  support.  The^  commissioners,  however,  were  not  able  to 
arrange  the  matter,  and  both  parties  separated  in  dudgeon.  Anaya 
retired  to  the  Presidio,  the  alcobala  continued,  and  the  merchants 
were  extremely  disappointed  at  the  rupture  ;  for  having  a  large 
amount  of  goods  destined  for  Durango  and  the  adjoining  provinces, 
which  had  already  passed  our  customs,  they  were  unwilling  to  risk 
the  transit  before  some  positive  arrangement  had  been  established 
between  the  two  parties. 

These  official  misunderstandings,  however,  did  not  prevent  con- 
stant visits  of  the  Mexican  officers  and  their  families  to  the  port — a 
few  of  them  were  pleasant,  conversible,  intelligent  gentlemen,  but 
generally  speaking,  they  were  dirty,  ill-bred  persons,  without  moral 
principle,  and  the  greatest  liars  in  existence,  and  they  invariably 
taxed  one  another  with  being  cowards.  On  entering  Mazatlan, 
they  were  obliged  to  register  their  names  and  report  the  time  of 
departure.  We.  were  occasionally  amused  when  they  assured  us 
they  found  great  difficulty  in  the  search  for  their  amantes,  and 
had  not  been  received  with  the  same  ardor  of  affection  that  so 
long  an  absence  would  have  justified. 


CHAPTER    XXIX. 

DURING  the  period  of  our  occupation  of  Mazaltan,  the  remain- 
ing ships  of  the  squadron  had  not  been  idle  along  the  neighboring 
shores  of  the  gulf.  The  Port  of  Guaymas,  on  the  Main,  had 
been  closely  guarded  by  a  sloop  of  war  ;  and  notwithstanding  the 
immense  superiority  of  force,  under  the  Mexican  General, 
Campuzano — of  five  hundred  regular  tr6ops — he  had  been  at  all 
times  beaten,  whenever  attempting  any  demonstrations  upon  the 
town — on  one  occasion  with  the  loss  of  twenty  killed  and  forty 
wounded ; — affairs  which  sufficiently  damped  their  ardor,  and 
warned  them  to  keep  beyond  the  reach  of  their  invaders. 

The  Peninsula,  also,  had  been  the  theatre  of  more  serious 
struggles ;  arid  as  the  events  attending  their  history  were  in 
themselves  characterised  by  the  utmost  gallantry,  reflecting  the 
highest  degree  of  praise  upon  the  actors,  who  bore  their  plumes 
most  bravely ;  and  as  they  were,  in  fact,  the  only  affairs  of  im- 
portance, which  may  be  considered  as  shedding  a  ray  of  glory 
upon  our  arms,  during  the  naval  operations  on  the  Mexican 
coast,  I  may  be  excused  for  relating  them  more  in  detail. 

It  may  be  recollected,  that  prior  to  the  departure  of  the 
squadron  from  Lower  California,  through  urgent  solicitations 
made  by  the  respectable  inhabitants,  a  small  detachment  of 


204  CHAPTER  XXIX. 


marines,  under  command  of  Lieut.  Charles  Heywood,  U.  S.  N., 
had  been  deputed  to  occupy  the  little  town  of  San  Jose. 

As  I  have  before  mentioned,  the  settlement  is  situated  in  a 
narrow  valley,  about  a  league  at  its  greatest  width  on  the  gulf, 
and  is  rapidly  wedged  in,  as  it  falls  back  into  the  interior,  by  con- 
verging walls  of  lofty  larren  mountains.  It  is  fertilized  by  a  swift 
little  stream  of  pure  water,  which,  in  pleasing  contrast  to  the 
parched  arid  hills  around,  brightens  the  landscape  with  many  green 
patches  of  cultivated  fields,  fruits,  and  foliage.  In  the  bosom  of 
this  little  vale,  upon  a  slight  eminence,  two  miles  from  the  bay, 
reposes  the  Mission- — a  village  of  some  five  hundred  inhabitants — 
having  a  broad  avenue  running  entirely  through  it,  in  a  parallel 
line  with  the  stream.  At  the  upper  end  was  a  square  adobie 
building,  protected  in  the  rear,  by  an  abrupt  descent  to  the  base 
of  the  plain,  and  the  front  facing  and  looking  down  upon  the 
whole  length  of  the  main  street.  This  was  designated  as  the 
Cuartel.  On  the  right,  and  opposite  angle,  stood  another  com- 
modious dwelling,  behind  which  a  high  wall  enclosed  a  small 
court-yard :  it  was  owned  by  an  American,  Mr.  Mott,  of  Mazat- 
lan,  and  occupied  by  his  agent,  Mr.  Eugene  Gillespie — who  as  an 
amateur  in  the  trying  events  that  ensued,  well  won  the  guerdon  of 
a  brave  and  loyal  gentleman. 

Immediately  upon  landing,  on  the  9th  November,  1847,  these 
two  buildings  were  taken  possession  of,  and  the  American  flag 
was  displayed.  The  Cuartel  was  found  to  be  in  a  very  dilapidated 
condition,  and  to  prevent  the  walls  and  roof  from  falling,  cross- 
beams and  pillars  were  used  to  prop  the  decayed  timbers,  while 
numbers  of  useless  windows  and  doorways  were  closed  up  with 
masonry,  leaving  the  main  entrance  and  another  portal  in  the 


SIEGE  OP  SAN  JOSE.  205 


rear,  where  a  platform  was  laid  for  more  convenient  traversings  of 
a  cannon. 

The  low  parapet  which  invariably  surmounts  the  flat  roofs  or 
azotcas  of  Spanish  houses,  was  raised  sufficiently  to  afford  a  breast- 
high  protection,  and  the  walls  were  pierced  at  the  commanding 
points,  with  loop-holes  for  musketry :  this,  with  a  trench  between 
the  two  buildings,  constituted  the  defences. 

The  garrison  numbered  twenty-five,  including  the  Commander 
and  his  four  subordinates.  This  force,  however,  was  swelled,  in 
a  numerical  sense,  by  about  twenty  friendly  natives,  who,  in 
seeking  protection  under  the  pledges  conveyed  in  our  proclama- 
tions, had  timidly  volunteered  their,  services,  in  case  of  assault. 
Still,  they  were  of  but  little  effective  aid,  and,  with  their  families, 
only  served  to  reduce  the  provisions  aad  uselessly  waste  the 
limited  supply  of  ammunition  with  which  the  garrison  had  been 
furnished.  The  gun,  too,  was  an  unwieldy  nine-pounder  ship's 
carronade,  mounted  upon  a  clumsy  slide,  without  wheels  for  easy 
transportation,  or  any  of  the  conveniences  necessary  for  manoeu- 
vering  on  land.  It  was  planted  in  front  of  the  Cuartel,  to  sweep 
the  avenue  with  its  fire.  The  force  was  divided  between  the  two 
positions,  and  with  but  forty  rounds  of  ball  cartridges  in  the  car- 
touche boxes,  the  little  band  calmly  held  their  ground. 

The  Californian  partisans  who  had  enrolled  themselves  for 
guerrilla  warfare  on  the  Peninsula,  were  composed  of  mongrel 
bodies  of  deserters  and  disbanded  soldiers  from  the  Main,  together 
with  divers  Yachi  Indians,  and  other  disaffected  vagabonds,  who, 
having  nothing  to  lose,  and  anxious  for  plunder,  either  from  their 
own  countrymen  or  their  enemies,  were  indifferent  by  what  means 
it  was  to  be  obtained. 

This  force  amounted  in  the  aggregate  to  more  than  six  hundred 


206  CHAPTER  XXIX 


mounted  men,  tolerably  well  equipped  with  weapons,  and  com- 
manded by  Pineda,  Mexia,  Moreno,  Angulo,  and  Mejares.  The 
last-named  individual  had  been  former  Captain  of  the  port  of 
Mazatlan.  He  was  a  man  of  activity  and  desperate  courage,  for 
which  last  quality,  at  a  later  day,  he  paid  the  penalty  with  his 
life. 

The  passions  of  these  guerrillas  had  been  violently  inflamed  by 
the  persuasions  and  advice  administered  by  a  shrewd  Mexican 
priest,  named  Gabriel  Gonzales,  who,  fearing  .probably  a  loss  of 
clerical  influence  among  the  native  population,  and  inheriting, 
with  all  his  race,  a  natural  antipathy  to  the  march  of  the  Anglo- 
Saxon,  consequent  upon  the  secession  of  the  territory,  made  unceas- 
ing efforts  by  every  means  in  his  -power  to  have  a  strong  blow 
struck  for  its  salvation.  He  partially  succeeded. 

The  original  scheme  of  the  Mexican  leaders  was,  in  the  first 
instance,  to  have  made  a  concentrated  attack  upon  the  town  of 
La  Paz,  at  the  time  in  possession  of  a  company  of  the  New  York 
regiment,  under  Lt.  Colonel  Burton ;  but  perceiving  the  weakness 
of  the  force  to  contend  against,  in  the  small  garrison  of  San  Jose, 
and  deeming  it  an  easy  prey,  they  divided  their  force,  and  with 
the  moiety  resolved  upon  its  destruction. 

Hardly  had  the  squadron  disappeared  below  the  horizon  from 
San  Jose,  before  reports  came  flying  thick  and  fast,  that  a  serious 
attack  was  contemplated.  These  rumors  only  infused  renewed 
energy  in  the  preparations  for  defence  and  resistance,  nor  was  the 
garrison  kept  long  in  suspense. 

On  the  morning  of  the  19th,  ten  days  after  the  sailing  of  the 
ships  of  war,  a  small  cavalcade,  bearing  a  banner  of  truce,  entered 
the  village,  and  by  a  blast  of  trumpets  demanded  a  parley. 
Possibly,  to  give  additional  weight  to  the  summons,  clouds  of  dust 


.THE  STORMING  PARTY.  207 

were  beheld  rolling  down  the  valley,  and  strong  squadrons  of  cav- 
alry scouring  the  roads  and  underwood,  in  advance  of  their  main 
body.  The  effect  was  not  realized.  The  flag  of  truce  was  met 
by  an  equal  number  from  the  Cuartel,  and  a  missive  received, 
demanding,  under  the  high  appeal  of  Dios  Patria  y  Libertady  an 
immediate  surrender,  under  penalty  of  the  horrors  of  annihilation 
by  a  greatly  superior  force.  The  reply  was  prompt  and  decisive : 
the  American  commander  regretting  his  inability  to  comply  with 
the  summons,  and  declaring  his  intention  to  defend  his  flag  against 
all  odds 

Negotiations  being  thus  courteously  terminated,  the  guerrillas, 
nearly  two  hundred  strong,  skirted  the  suburbs,  and  took  up  a 
position  on  the  right'of  the  American  quarters,  behind  the  church, 
on  an  elevation,  three  hundred  and  fifty  yards  distant,  laterally 
commanding  the  town ;  it  was  called  La  Lomita. 

During  the  afternoon  the  Mexican  eagle  and  tricolor  was  un- 
furled, and  with  cheers  and  pealing  bugles,  they  opened  a  fire 
from  a  six-pounder  and  musketry,  continuing  the  work  until  dark. 
The  shot,  however,  did  but  little  damage  to  the  soft  adobie  walls, 
save  fracturing  cornices  or  boring  fresh  apertures  for  loop  holes ; 
nor  was  it  judged  prudent  to  return  their  salutes  but  rarely,  inas- 
much as  the  carronade  of  the  Cuartel  could  not,  without  much 
difficulty,  be  brought  to  bear  upon  the  enemies'  hill,  and  the 
limited  supply  of  ammunition  rendered  it  advisable  to  await  closer 
quarters  with  the  small  arms. 

As  night  closed  around  the  valley,  there  was  a  cessation  of 
firing ;  the  garrison  remaining  under  arms  momentarily  antici- 
pating a  more  vigorous  attack ;  nor  were  they  disappointed.  By 
ten  o'clock  the  besiegers  had  cautiously  crept  within  close  prox- 
imity to  the  occupied  buildings,  and  with  a  field  piece  in  the  main 


208  CHAPTER    XXIX. 


street,  began  a  simultaneous  assault  from  all  directions,  front  and 
rear.  Showers  of  bullets  flew  into  every  hole  and  aperture  of  the 
Cuartel,  whilst  determined  efibrts  were  made  to  gain  a  lodgment 
in  the  oppositeliouse  :  but  they  were  severally  repulsed  with  loss, 
and  not  an  ounce  of  lead  was  thrown  away,  or  powder  idly  burned 
without  a  definite  object.  Three  of  the  garrison  only,  were 
wounded. 

A  hot  but  ineffective  fire  was  kept  up  by  the  assailants  during 
the  night,  but  at  daylight  the  force  was  withdrawn  again  to  the 
camp  at  La  Lomita.  All  the  following  day  the  garrison  were  en- 
circled by  the  guerrillas,  who  maintained  a  brisk  fire  of  musketry 
from  behind  the  walls  and  parapets  of  adjoining  dwellings.  The 
disparity  of  numbers  was  too  great  to  risk  the  chances  of  dislodg- 
ing them  at  the  point  of  the  bayonet. 

With  the  night  the  garrison  were  still  under  arms  at  their  posts 
The  plan  of  the  guerrillas  was  to  have  stormed  the  front  of  the 
Cuartel  with  forty  picked  men,  under  cover  of  three  field  pieces  , 
receive  the  discharge  from  the  nine-pounder,  rush  in,  and  cap- 
ture it,  whilst  other  bodies,  provided  with  bars  and  ladders,  were 
to  scale  the  azoteas,  and  then  pour  in  a  destructive  fire  on  the 
occupants  below.  In  the  end,  these  matured  calculations  were 
defeated  :  nevertheless,  the  po'sitions  were  well  chosen,  and  the 
Mexicans  in  readiness  for  the  assault.  Just  before  midnight  the 
garrison  sentinels  challenged  :  the  hail  was  immediately  answered 
by  trumpets  sounding  a  charge,  and  a  heavy  fire  from  guns  and 
small  arms ;  at  the  same  instant,  Mejares,  the  commandant  of 
artillery,  with  four  of  his  followers,  in  leading  the  forlorn  hope, 
were  riddled  by  rifle  balls  from  the  besieged,  whilst  another  in  striv- 
ing to  bear  away  the  body  of  his  comrade,  fell  mortally  wounded 
on  the  same  bloody  heap.  Deprived  of  the  animating  exam 


THE  BRAVE  WHALEMEN.  209 


pie  of  their  leader,  the  storming  parties  faltered,  thus  disconcert- 
ing the  entire  movement,  and  they  returned  to  their  encampment 
without  attempting  further  demonstrations  that  night.  Eight 
newly  made  graves  was  the  sole  glory  reaped  in  this  abortive 
struggle. 

Meanwhile  a  series  of  vigorous  attacks  had  already  been  com- 
menced upon  the  command  at  La  Paz,  but  was  repulsed  by  a 
stouter  resistance  than  was  anticipated ;  equally  unprepared  for 
the  gallant  conduct  of  the  little  band  at  San  Jose,  and  depressed 
by  the  loss  of  their  leader,  the  guerrilla  chiefs  ordered  their 
partisans  to  again  unite  in  the  north,  for  a  combined  movement 
upon  La  Paz — as  had  been  originally  intended. 

This  course  of  action  was  considerably  hastened,  on  the  morn- 
ing of  the  21st,  by  the  appearance  of  two  large  vessels  in  the 
offing  ;  eventually  proving  to  be  the  whale  ships  "  Magnolia"  and 
"  Edward,"  of  New  Bedford — Captains  Simmons  and  Barker — 
who  learning  from  a  launch,  near  Cape  San  Lucas,  the  state  of 
affairs  in  San  Jose,  without  a  thought  to  their  own  interests, 
resolved  to  do  the  utmost  for  the  garrison.  Standing  boldly  into  the 
bay,  dropping  anchor,  discharging  a  cannon,  and  taking  in  sails 
together,  they  succeeded  completely  in  deceiving  the  guerrillas, 
who  were  posted  in  strength  on  the  beach  to  oppose  a  landing ; 
and  who,  under  the  belief  that  the  ships  were  either  men-of-war  or 
transports,  fell  back  to  their  camp,  and  shortly  after  retreated  up 
the  valley ;  not,  however,  without  giving  a  parting  volley  to  the 
Cuartel,  which  was  courteously  returned  by  Mr.  Gillespic,  who 
knocked  a  trooper  from  his  saddle  by  a  rifle-bullet. 

On  being  informed  of  the  straightened  situation  of  their  coun- 
trymen, these  bold  captains,  with  their  brave  crews,  armed 
themselves  with  muskets,  lances,  spades,  and  harpoons  from  their 


210  CHAPTER  XXIX. 


ship;?,  and  sixty  in  number  .at  once  landed,  and  marched  to  the 
Cuartel.  The  provisions  and  ammunition  of  the  garrison  had 
been  nearly  exhausted,  and  these  resolute  whale-men  instantly 
brought  on  shore  a  quantity  of  bread — all  the  powder  they  pos- 
sessed, and  even  parted  with  hand  and  deep  sea  leads  to  mould 
into  bullets !  Not  contented  with  this,  they  formed  into  com- 
panies— were  drilled — and  evinced  an  enthusiasm  to  do.good  battle 
for  those  they  had  so  generously  and  disinterestedly  succored. 
Not  only  were  these  gallant  deeds  undertaken  without  solicitation, 
but  they  nobly  gave  food  and  raiment  to  many  of  the  timid 
peasantry  received  on  board  their  ships.  If  any  more  admirable 
patriotism  can  be  shown  than  this,  let  it  be  inscribed  hi  grateful 
remembrance,  with  the  names  of  Simmons  and  Barker  ! 

A  few  days  later  a  government  transport  and  corvette  arrived : 
the  garrison  was  supplied  with  two  more  carronade  guns,  and  an 
abundance  of  ammunition  and  provisions.  The  quarters  were 
considerably  strengthened,  and  an  adobie  bastion,  with  four 
embrasures  raised  in  front  of  the  Cuartel.  The  force  was  also 
increased  by  ten  marines,  and  sixteen  men  whose  terms  of  service 
had  not  quite  expired;  many  of  whom  were  invalids,  and  were 
thus  merely  a  make-weight  upon  those  they  had  been  detailed  to 
assist. 

For  a  month  all  remained  quiet  in  the  vicinity — the  guerrillas 
had  fallen  back  upon  La  Paz.  Reports,  however,  gave  every  indi- 
cation that  another  and  more  serious  attack  was  contemplated 
upon  San  Jose ;  but,  notwithstanding  this  state  of  affairs,  and  the 
events  which  had  transpired,  the  commander  of  the  corvette  saw 
no  further  cause  for  alarm,  and  being  homeward-bound,  sailed 
for  the  United  States.  The  bold  whalers  had  also  long  since 


THE  SECOND  ATTACK.  211 

departed — although  not  until  thpir  services  had  been  no  more 
required — and  at  length  the  bay  was  once  more  deserted. 

TsTo  longer  deterred  by  the  men-of-war,  the  guerrillas,  having 
been  baffled  in  their  demonstrations  upon  La  Paz,  again  resolved 
to  attempt  the  reduction  of  San  Jose,  with  such  an  overwhelming 
force  as  to  place  the  result  beyond  a  doubt.  Accordingly, 
breaking  up  their  camp,  with  three  hundred  cavalry,  they  entered 
the  lower  valley  on  the  15th  of  January.  For  a  week  they  were 
posted  within  a  league  of  the  village,  whilst  detached  portions 
were  employed  driving  off  cattle  and  horses,  destroying  the  crops, 
and  intercepting  all  communication  with  the  interior.  On  the 
21st,  a  small  schooner  anchored  in  the  bay,  having  some  articles 
for  the  garrison.  The  following  morning,  the  sea  road  appearing 
free  from  the  enemy,  two  officers  and  five  men,  well  armed  and 
mounted,  started  to  communicate  with  the  vessel.  On  gaining 
the  beach,  they  were  surrounded  by  an  ambuscade  of  one  hundred 
and  fifty  guerrillas,  and  taken  prisoners.  Shortly  afterwards,  they 
were  carried  up  the  valley :  with  pain  and  anxiety,  their  friends 
saw  them  from  the  Cuartel,  without  the  means  of  affording 
them  relief.  Emboldened  by  this  success,  which  was  indeed  a 
bitter  loss  to  the  little  garrison,  the  guerrillas  contracted  their 
lines,  and  each  day  found  them  nearer  the  town.  Again  the 
besieged  and  the  native  residents,  with  their  families,  were 
obliged  to  keep  closely  within  their  quarters.  Step  by  step  the 
enemy  after  gaining  the  main  avenue,  pierced  the  buildings  on 
either  hand,  and  cutting  trenches  across  the  transverse  lanes, 
they  succeeded  in  forcing  a  passage,  entirely  concealed  from  view, 
until  they  gained  complete  possession  of  the  town.  And  in  an 
adobie  house,  within  fifty  yards  of  the  American  battery,  the  walls, 


212  CHAPTER  XXIX. 


already  three  feet  in  thickness,  were  increased  by  planting  stakes 
inside,  which  were  filled  up  with  hard  timber  and  sand ;  and  such 
was  its  strength,  that  twelve-pound  shot,  fired  at  forty  yards, 
made  no  perceptible  impression :  from  the  azotea  of  this  entrench- 
ment the  Mexican  flag  floated  in  defiance. 

Be'sides  these  annoyances,  almost  every  dwelling  in  the  street 
was  loopholed,  occupied  and  protected  by  heavy  angular  barricades 
of  pickets  and  earth,  making  safe  points  for  the  use  of  musketry, 
while  the  church  and  surrounding  eminences  were  strongly 
guarded. 

During  these  operations  the  garrison  had  not  been  merely  spec- 
tators. They  made  a  number  of  sorties,  with  the  loss  of  but  one 
man  killed,  and  succeeded  in  saving  a  small  quantity  of  rice.  But 
by  the  10th  of  February,' the  guerrillas  had  entire  possession  of 
the  town,  and  from  front,  sides  and  rear  of  the  Cuartel,  they 
were  enabled  to  throw  a  raking  fire.  From  that  time  forth,  the 
fusillade  was  incessant ;  the  least  exposure  of  person  being  made 
the  target  for  a  simultaneous  discharge  of  fifty  bullets ;  and  from 
long  practice  they  were  found  well  skilled  in  handling  their 
weapons — pouring  the  lead  in  at  every  aperture. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  llth,  the  garrison  had  to  lament  the 
death  of  the  second  in  command,  Passed  Midshipman  Tenant 
McLenahan.  While  engaged  at  his  duties  on  the  azotea,  amid  a 
shower  of  deadly  missiles,  he  was  struck  down  by  a  bullet  in  the 
throat,  and  fell  with  one  hand  clasping  the  flagstaff  that  upheld 
the  colors  he  had  so  intrepidly  defended.  »  He  was  a  young  officer 
of  undaunted  resolution,  courageous  and  energetic.  He  expired 
two  hours  after  being  wounded,  and  was  buried  in  rear  of  the 
Cuartel,  while  the  sharp  whistling  of  bullets  and  reports  of  cannon 


AN  OFFICER  KILLED.  213 


echoed  over  his  untimely  grave — a  fitting  requiem  for  the  noble 
spirit  that  had  taken  its  flight.* 

The  commander  and  a  single  officer  were  now  all  that  remained. 
The  whole  garrison  numbered  but  sixty,  including  sick,  wounded, 
and  twenty  of  the  enrolled  natives ;  the  buildings  were  crowded 
to  excess  with  women  and  children  ;  they  were  to  be  fed ;  provis- 
ions were  becoming  scarce  ;  bread  was  entirely  gone,  and  naught 
remained,  save  a  few  days'  salt  meat  on  half  an  allowance.  In 
addition  to  the  want  of  these  necessaries,  the  assailants  had  cut 
off  the  access  to  the  stream  in  rear  of  the  Cuartel,  or  at  least  so 
enveloped,  the  outlets  and  approaches  'to  the  pools — by  screens  of 
sand  and  barricades  of  pickets — '-as  to  make  it  a  matter  of  almost 
certain  death  to  seek  water,  either  by  day  or  night.  There  was 
no  other  course  to  pursue  than  the  arduous  task  of  digging  a  well 
within  the  walls.  This,  by  the  most  untiring  exertions,  was 
finally  accomplished,  by  boring  thirty  feet  through  tlrc  solid  rock. 

In  such  an  emergency,  surrounded  by  nearly  ten  times  their 
numbers,  less  undaunted  spirits  might  reasonably  have  succumbed 
to  the  perils  of  a  seige  that  was  hourly  becoming  more  straitened. 
But  the  beleagured  little  garrison,  though  a  small  band,  were  true 
to  themselves.  There  were  neither  murmurs  nor  thoughts  of  sur- 
render— they  still  vigilantly  guarded  the  defences — with  but  limited 
rest  or  food — while  the  bullets  and  shot  of  the  besiegers  flew  in 
by  the  loop-holes,  or  plunged  through  the  walls.  Yet  there  was 
no  flinching — ever  on  the  alert — for  hours  and  hours  they  watched 
the  enemy,  and  wo  betide  the  adventurous  guerrilla,  who,  becoming 
rash  from  fancied  security,  exposed  an  inch  of  flesh  !  the  leaden 


*  On  an  eminence  overlooking  the  bay,  a  small  white  railing  and  tablet  mark  the 
spot  where  the  remains  of  poor  McLenahan  were  subsequently  buried,  with  the 
honors  of  war. 


214  CHAPTER  XXIX 


messenger  from  some  deadly  carbine  gave  sad  warning  to  his 
comrades. 

It  was  evidently  the  intention  of  the  guerrillas  to  starve  the 
garrison  into  submission,  who  had  already  sustained  a  close  seige  of 
more  than  four  weeks,  resisted  many  determined  assaults,  and  made 
a  number  of  successful  sorties.  Yet  their  position  had  become 
eminently  critical,  and  without  speedy  relief,  their  well-defended 
flag  would  have  to  be  hauled  down.  It  did  not  hang  upon  the 
simple  results  devolving  upon  capture.  They  felt  no  greater 
uneasiness  on  that  score  than  commonly  falls  to  the  lot  of  the 
vanquished  in  civilized  warfare.  But  the  innocent  inhabitants, 
who  had  sought  refuge  under  the  inducements  held  forth  by  our 
proclamations,  and  who  trustingly  relied  upon  American  arms  to 
shield  them  from  the  inevitable  fate  to  which  they  were  to  be 
devoted  by  those  whose  vindictive  hate  and  malice  they  had  pro- 
voked— and  whose  gritos — cries — resounded  from  every  house- 
top, singling  out  by  name,  with  bitter  taunts  and  revilings,  those 
most  obnoxious,  and  the  doom  in  store  for  then*  apostacy — were 
the  causes  that  still  nerved  the  hearts  of  their  defenders. 

Joyfully,  on  the  evening  .of  the  14th  of  February,  the  garrison 
beheld  a  ship  of  war  sail  into  the  bay,  and  though  apprehensive 
that  the  opposition  would  be  too  great  to  admit  of  a  landing,  yet 
at  daylight  the  following  morning  an  hundred  of  the  crew  disem- 
barked, and  soon  after,  the  musketry  from  the  Mexicans  opened 
upon  them.  The  odds  were  four  to  one  ;  but  steadily  the  seamen 
rushed  on,  pouring  in  their  fire,  and  fighting  their  way,  pace  by 
pace,  until  met  by  a  party  from  the  Cuartel,  when  the  guerrillas 
retreated,  with  a  loss  of  fifteen  killed  and  thirty-five  wounded. 
Thus  was  the  little  band  relieved,  their  wants  attended  to,  and 
the  sick  and  wounded  cared  for.  The  enemy,  baffled  in  their 


THE  GARRISON  RELIEVED.  215 


enterprise,  and  deterred  by  the  presence  of  the  corvette,  deserted 
the  valley  for  the  interior. 

A  month  later,  Captain  Steele,  of  the  New  York  volunteers, 
with  thirty  mounted  men,  left  La  Paz,  and  after  a  flying  march  of 
sixty  miles,  reached  San  Antonio,  when,  dashing  into  the  plaza, 
they  put  the  garrison  to  flight;  rescued  the  party  captured  at 
San  Jose,  and  returned  to  their  post,  with  the  loss  of  but  one  man 
killed — having  performed  the  entire  distance  of  one  hundred  and 
thirty  miles  within  thirty  hours !  Such  gallant  little  forays  need 
no  comment.  The  prisoners  had  been  treated  with  extreme 
kindness,  and  although  moved  from  place  to  place,  never  experi- 
enced the  slightest  insult  or  injury. 

Early  in  April,  Lt.  Col.  Burton's  command  being  reinforced  by 
another  company  from  the  upper  territory,  with  one  hundred  and 
fifty  of  the  volunteers,  moved  towards"  the  interior ;  while  seventy- 
five  seamen  and  marines  left  San  Jose  to  form  a  junction  at  San 
Antonio.  Before  the  bodies  united,  Lt.  Col.  Burton,  with  his 
troops,  came  up  with  the  guerrillas,  three  hundred  and  fifty  strong, 
at  Todos  Santos,  and  after  a  severe  action,  totally  defeated  them, 
taking  many  prisoners  and  their  leaders.  By  the  close  of  the 
month,  the  town  of  San  Jose  was  occupied  by  Captain  Naglee, 
of  the  volunteers,  and  the  naval  force  was  withdrawn. 

Thus  ended  the  war  on  the  peninsula  of  California. 


CHAPTER    XXX. 

EARLY  in  the  month rof  May,  the  Ohio,  74,  arrived  at  Mazat- 
lan.  On  the  Sth,  I  was  ordered  to  prepare  for  a  journey  to  the  city 
of  Mexico — my  preparations  were  made  in  five  minutes  ;  merely  a 
saddle,  sabre,  spurs,  pistols,  undress  jacket,  riding  trowsers  and 
serapa.  The  same  night  I  rode  to  the  Presidio,  where  General 
Anaya  politely  furnished  me  with  a  special  passport,  and  afforded 
every  facility  to  expedite  the  journey  through  his  immediate  com- 
mand. Returning  to  the  port  at  daylight,  a  letter  of  credit  await- 
ed me,  which,  with  a  dispatch  enclosed 'in  oiled  silk  and  concealed 
in  the  lining  of  my  jacket,  completed  my  arrangements.  A  ship  of 
war  had  been  ordered  to  land  me  at  gan  Bias,  a  port  some  one  hun- 
dred and  thirty  miles  down  the  coast,  and  considered  the  nearest 
practicable  route  to  Mexico.  I  was  to  be  accompanied  by  a  Mexi- 
can officer,  a  dark  pop-eyed  little  man,  of  a  quiet  and  gentlemanly 
demeanor,  who  was  bound  on  a  mission  to  his  own  government, 
and  took  passage  with  us  in  the  frigate. 

Attended  by  light  flyaway  airs  and  calms,  we  were  nearly  three 
days  in  accomplishing  the  short  distance  of  the  voyage,  and  it 
was  not  until  nightfall  of  the  13th,  that  the  good  ship  lay  be- 
calmed a  few  miles  from  the  shore.  With  my  fellow  traveller,  I 
was  tossed  into  a  boat,  and  after  a  smart  pull  of  two  hours,  we 
were  safely  landed  up  a  narrow  estero,  on  the  banks  of  which  was 


\VE  REACH  SAN  BLAS.  217 

placed  the  little  town  of  San  Bias,  apparently  overstocked  with 
musquitos.  A  letter  to  a  Chinaman,  named  Passio,  made  him 
yell  for  his  servants ;  before  midnight  had  struck,  after  embracing 
a  number  of  officers  from  two  of  our  ships  at  anchor  there, 
we  went  pacing  away  through  the  thick  foliage,  answering 
to  the  echo  the  loud  shouts  of  the  friends  left  behind — it  was 
thus  began  my  rough  notes  and  jolts  on  a  Mexican  saddle.  We 
were  accompanied  by  a  guide,  and  a  pack-mule  for  my  com- 
panion's portmanteau.  My  wardrobe  did  not  require  one — 
consisting  of  two  shirts  and  a  tooth-brush. 

The  horse  I  bestrode  was  not  very  beautiful  to  behold,  cer- 
tainly— being  what  is  technically  termed  in  animal  structure — a 
singed  cat ;  but  nevertheless  he  rattlcd'along  bravely,  without  a 
jolt,  plunge,  or  stumble,  and  we  got  on  famously  together.  We 
contrived  to  while  away  miles  and  hours,  coursing  along  the 
marismas  of  the  sea,  with  a  clear  bright  moon  to  light  us ;  or 
winding  through  magnificent  forests  of  sycamore  and  pine, 
beneath  dense  thickets,  arched  with  vines,  cactus  and  acacia ; — 
grouped  here  and  there  with  palmettos,  or  cocoanuts,  crackling  in 
the  breeze — and  looking  for  all  the  world  like  long-legged  trowser- 
less  turbancd  Turks.  The  scene  was  quite  exhilarating,  and  even 
my  comrade  allowed  his  huge  moustache  to  be  parted  ;  but  whether 
owin<j  to  the  pure  air,  and  excitement  of  the  ride,  or  the  yet  purer 
brandy  from  his  alforgas,  his  hitherto  taciturn  tongue  was  let 
loose,  and  we  became  bosom  friends  on  the  spot.  He  had  put  suf- 
ficient in  his  mouth  to  steel  away  his  brains,  and  not  a  little  to  my 
surprise — though  I  expressed  none — he  shortly  proposed  to  me  a 
capital  plan  of  cheating  the  government :  that  by  keeping 
together — he  being  empowered  to  take  horses  for  nothing — we 
might  charge  the  full  amount,  and  halve  the  proceeds.  I  readily 
10 


o18  CHAPTER  XXX. 


assented,  sealed  the  bargain  by  a  squeeze  that  nearly  wrenched 
him  from  the  saddle,  and  resolved  to  cut  his  fascinating  society  at 
the  first  convenient  opportunity.  This  gentleman  bore  the  repu- 
tation of  being  one  out  of  a  few  honest  officers  in  the  Mexican 
army.  However,  it  is  but  justice  to  state  that  these  little  sins  of 
commission  are  not  regarded  in  so  serious  a  light  as  with  us ; 
although  I  could  not  help  speculating  on  the  beautiful  moral 
attributes  possessed  by  the  remainder  of  the  army.  They  have  a 
very  trite  saying,  which  hits  their  case  precisely :  Primero  joy 
pues  mi  padre — me  first,  then  daddy. 

At  about  three  o'clock  we  had  left  the  grounds  bordering  upon 
the  ocean,  for  the  first  step  to  the  temperate  terrace.  Alighting 
at  a  large  rancho,  we  unceremoniously  aroused  some  sleeping 
figures — had  a  mess  of  scrambled  eggs — thence  to  horse  again.  We 
soon  gained  the  highland,  by  bridle-paths  skirting  along  crests  of 
hills  and  ravines,  until  daylight  found  us  ambling  from  one  to  the 
other,  in  an  everlasting  up-and-down  route,  both  tiresome  and 
monotonous.  Eight  leagues  of  this  work  brought  us  to  the  more 
elevated  region  of  the  plateau — a  more  open  country,  with  now  and 
then  a  rancho — cultivated  fields — broader  roads,  and  all  the  signs 
of  approaching  a  large  town ;  then  in  a  moment  the  view  opened 
upon  a  broad,  lovely  plain,  framed  in  by  three  noble  swells  of 
sierras,  and  before  us  lay  long  lines  of  buildings  and  gardens,  with  a 
thin  stream  winding  down  the  slopes,  like  a  white  thread — and  this 
was  Tepic.  Leaving  my  compafiero  at  a  meson,  I  swung  myself 
from  the  saddle,  after  a  twenty-eight  leagues  ride,  within  the 
spacious  .patio  of  an  American  gentleman's  house,  to  whom  I  was 
regularly  endorsed — Mr.  Bissell.  He  received  me  in  the  kindest 
manner  possible — washed,  shaved  and  breakfasted  me,  and  put 
all  in  train  for  a  renewed  start  by  night.  We  called  on  the  Com- 


COTTON  MILLS   OF  TEPIC.  219 

mandantc  Aristi,  who  declared  the  inexpressible  pleasure  he  ex- 
perienced at  the  sight  of  mo,  signed  my  passport,  and  bowed  us 
most  politely  out  of  the  house,  even  to  the  furthermost  door-step. 
This  state  visit  over,  I  took  a  sound  nap,  and  was  aroused  in 
season  for  a  bath.  We  rode  to  the  green  suburbs  of  the  town, 
where  wore  nice  thatched  sheds  stretching  half  way  over  a  rapid 
stream.  After  a  refreshing  swim,  and  a  sip  of  lemonade  filled 
with  caraway  seeds,  we  returned  to  dine  on  delightful  brook  trout, 
and  pleasant  vinous  accompaniments.  The  horses  were  again 
equipped,  and  making  a  tour  of  the  city,  we  stopped  at  the  cotton 
mills  belonging  to  the  wealthy  English  house  of  Barren,  Forbes  & 
Co.  The  Fabrica  stands  at  the  base  of  a  steep  hillete — composed 
of  large  white  buildings,  encircled  by  high  walls  on  three  sides,  and 
the  fourth  facing  an  impetuous  torrent,  from  which  a  strong  body  of 
water  is  diverted  to  drive  the  machinery.  The  banks  were  hand- 
somely walled  up,  and  laid  out  in  parterres,  prettily  planted  with 
shrubbery,  all  bearing  the  impress  of  great  care  and  beauty. 
Further  down  the  stream  was  an  extensive  garden,  with  broad 
alleys,  arbors  and  spacious  tanks,  teeming  with  fruits,  flowers  and 
exotics  of  the  rarest  kinds.  * 

The  senior  owner  of  the  manufactory,  Mr.  Forbes,  did  the 
honor  to  play  cicerone,  and  take  me  over  the  works.  There 
were  about  five  thousand  spindles  in  operation ;  then  working 
day  and  night.  The  machinery  was  a  beautiful  specimen  of 
American  ingenuity ;  nearly  all  the  overseers,  and  the  intel- 
ligent superintendent,  Mr.  Whiting,  boasted  of  the  same  origin. 
None  but  coarser  fabrics,  suitable  for  the  Mexican  market,  were 
milled  ;  but  the  profits  were  enormous,  having  netted  the  previous 
year  a  fraction  less  than  two  hundred  thousand  dollars.  The 


220  CHAPTER  XXX. 


operatives  were  all  natives  ;  and  although,  I  was  told,  without  the 
wish  or  energy  to  rise,  still  they  did  very  well  in  the  work  required. 

I  never  saw  out  of  Europe  or  the  United  States,  or  Continental 
America,  or  in  even  the  British  Colonies,  such  extensive  improve- 
ments keeping  so  close  a  wake  to  the  rushing  march  of  the  age ; 
all,  however,  begun  and  matured  by  the  indomitable  skill  and 
enterprise  of  the  intelligent  owners. 

I  left  Topic  two  hours  before  midnight,  and  made  all  sail  under 
a  heavy  press  of  spurs  and  stirrups.  I  said  adios  to  the  Capitan, 
who  assured  mo  his  frame  was  deplorably  jolted,  and  that  he  felt 
unable  to  proceed.  The  fact  was,  ihe  Don  carried  too  much 
weight  for  anything  beyond  a  quarter  stretch.  I  was  recom- 
pensed for  the  loss  of  his  society  by  the  attendance  of  two  dark 
mozos  as  guides,  and  three  spare  horses ;  but  with  the  beasts  I 
must  confess  having  been  decidedly  duped :  I  booked  them  to 
Guadalajara,  but  they  were  neither  swift  nor  well  gaited.  My 
attendants  expressed  great  regret,  as  a  matter  of  course,  which  did 
not  prevent  the  avalanche  of  blessings  with  which  they  were 
indulged.  At  sunrise  we  dismounted  a  minute,  for  coffee,  at  a 
small  village,  with  an  unpronouncable  jaw-cracking  Indian  name. 
It  was  a  very  pretty  spot,  shrubby  and  treesy,  with  a  noisy 
rivulet  washing  the  door-steps  of  an  old  ruined  chapel.  A  bare- 
footed damsel  was  quite  attentive  to  my  pencilling  occupations, 
and  with  an  inquisitive  frown  and  nod,  as  much  as  to  inquire — 
"  What  on  earth  is  he  about  ? " — handed  me  a  little  glazed  pot  of 
wheat-coffee  ;  but  being  a  courier  of  the  grand  route,  and  having 
no  time  to  satisfy  the  muchachita's  curiosity,  I  swallowed  the 
beverage,  threw  her  a  peseta,  and  while  she  was  hunting  for  the 
change,  we  were  in  the  saddle  and  off.  At  ten  of  the  clock  we 
halted  at  the  hamlet  of  Ocultilti,  in  front  of  a  little  mud-built 


JOURNEY  TO  MEXICO  221 

fondctj  where,  for  a  Mexican  miracle,  was  laid  a  tolerably  clean 
cloth  upon  a  table.  The  road  thus  far  had  been  hilly  and  rugged, 
and  the  last  five  miles  a  tedious  clamber  over  a  mountain-pass. 
My  horses  had  given  out,  and  I  felt  a  strong  inclination  to  shoot 
the  lying  guides  for  imposing  on  me  ;  but  the  patrona  of  the  inn 
sent  every  boy  in  the  place  scampering  in  search  of  fresh  horses, 
while  she  busied  herself  at  the  fire  getting  a  breakfast  of  ever- 
lasting frijoks.  In  reply  to  my  anxiety  for  more  beasts,  she 
continually  repeated — Quien  sale,  !.hay  muchos  !  si  Senor  ! — in  this 
part  of  Mexico  the  oft-repeated  exclamation — Who  knows  !  there 
are  thousands !  Presently  appeared  two  ragged,  filthy  Indians. 
They  approached  each  other,  tipped  their  broad  sombreros,  at  an 
angle  like  to  the  rings  of  Saturn.  Coino  estd  vd  ?  JMuy  bueno  !  Me 
allegro,  y  la  familia  1  Para  servir  vd  !  They  kept  up  this  strain 
of  compliment  for  ten  minutes,  neither  letting  go  hands  nor  hats — 
until  my  patience  becoming  exhausted  at  such  fatigeing  polite- 
ness— I  let  the  lash  of  my  whip  fall  lovingly  around  their  legs. 
"  I  say,  my  fine  fellows,  are  there  any  horses  to  be  had  ? " 
Quein  sale!  Scfwr,  hay  muchos  !  they  both  replied  in  a  breath  ; 
but  nothing  more  satisfactory  could  I  learn.  The  boys  never 
came  back  !  the  mistress  became  less  civil  after  getting  paid  for 
her  breakfasts ;  and  after  vainly  waiting  an  hour,  I  felt  convinced 
there  was  not  a  four-legged  brute  in  the  hamlet,  or  that  the  two- 
legged  ones  were  too  lazy  to  find  them.  Selecting  the  best  of 
our  spavined  jades,  we  stumped  slowly  on,  and  a  league  beyond 
came  to  a  post-house ;  here  a  good-natured  dame,  in  the  absence 
of  her  helpmate,  mounted  a  mule,  and  soon  drove  up  a  cavallada. 
Transferring  the  saddles  to  better  beasts,  and  followed  by  a 
diminutive  elf,  to  bring  them  back,  we  continued  our  journey. 
The  roads  became  smoother,  and  less  broken ;  the  country  pre- 


222  CHAPTER  XXX. 


sented  u  more  smiling  aspect :  green  fields  of  grain,  and  cultivated 
plantations  of  the  argave,  covered  the  sides  of  hills  and  valleys. 
Pursuing  a  course  through  a  well-watered  district,  without  any 
evidences  visible  of  volcanic  origin,  our  road  was  suddenly 
closed  by  a  very  curious  lava  formation — ah  elevation  not  in 
the  highest  parts  more  than  eighty  feet — springing  strangely  and 
abruptly  from  the  table  land  of  the  vale.  There  were  acres  upon 
acres  of  black  volcanic  masses  thrown  up  into  the  most  fantastic 
shapes ;  there  were  churches  and  altars,  castles  and  coaches, 
figures  of  men  and  monkeys — with  clusters  of  straight,  slender 
cactus,  in  full  flower,  shooting  far  above  all — rearing  their  white 
and  red  torch-like  heads,  as  if  to  light  up  the  black  congregation 
below ;  which  from  a  distance  struck  me  as  bearing  a  miniature 
resemblance  to  the  Giant's  Causeway.  We  passed  this  barrier, 
over  a  deep  cut  of  slippery  aqueous  lava,  when  we  again  debouched 
into  the  vega,  took  a  lave  in  a  cool,  clear  torrent,  and  then  came 
on  at  a  great  pace  to  the  town  of  Aguacatlan. 

From  a  hasty  glance  it  appeared  a  nice  place,  and  we  drew  up 
at  a  spacious  meson,  facing  a  pretty  plaza,  lined  by  magnificent 
rows  of  elms,  with  a  handsome  church  in  front.  All  looked  gay 
withal :  troops  of  vagabonds  and  girls  were  passing  and  repassing 
the  portals.  In  a  lofty  hall  of  the  Fonda,  I  had  an  excellent  supper, 
washed  down  by  a  flask  of  capital  bordeaux,  which,  the  maestro 
informed  me,  had  lain  an  unsaleable  drug  on  his  hands  for  eleven 
years.  Passing  from  the  sala  to  a  shop  in  the  building,  I  found  a 
crowd  of  idlers,  absorbing  cigarillos  and  hearkening  to  the  har- 
rangue  of  a  stout  fellow,  shrouded  in  a  seedy  serapa  :  he  was 
striving  to  awaken  their  patriotism  by  violently  declaiming  against 
the  policy,  of  the  Mexican  government,  for  tolerating  an  idea  of 
peace,  and  lavishing  a  fair  share  of  abuse  upon  the  Yankees. 


PATRIOTIC  ACQUAINTANCE. 


Christo!  Senorcs!  said  he,  "why  didn't  General  Skote  attack 
Pifion,  where  all  was  prepared  for  him,  instead  of  creeping 
around  the  valley  to  Churubusco  ?  Answer  me  that !  Porque. 
8e7iores  los  Yankis  son  cobardes !  todos!  toditos!" — Because  every 
mother's  son  of  the  Americans  were  cowards.  Upon  the  conclu- 
sion of  this  speech,  he  honored  me  with  a  close  inspection,  and 
apparently  not  being  satisfied,  touched  his  castor  by  way  of  formal 
introduction.  "Capitan,"  he  suggested,  "you  belong  to  the 
cavalry."  I  nodded.  "  Ay,  he  knew  that  by  my  divisas — shoul- 
der-straps— but  he  mistook  me  at  first  for  one  of  the  San  Patricios. 
Where  was  I  bound?"  I  shrugged  my  shoulders.  "Did  I  know 
Mazatlan  ?"  I  had  been  there.  This  last  admission  quite  won 
his  confidence  ;  so,  grasping  me  by  the  elbow,  he  drew  me  aside, 
and  informed  me  that  he  was  on  a  mission  to  that  port  for  the 
purchase  of  arms  to  put  in  the  hands  of  flaming  red-hot  patriots 
in  Guadalajara ;  and  that  any  intelligence  to  further  his  designs 
would  be  highly  acceptable.  I,  of  course,  gave  him  all  necessary 
information,  and  at  the  same  time  dropt  a  line  by  the  post,  which 
was  the  means  of  giving  him  an  opportunity  to  inspect  vacant 
apartments  in  the  cared,  for  some  weeks  after  his  arrival.  Having 
no  more  time  to  waste,  I  left  the  good  people  to  pump  my  mozos, 
whilst  I  took  a  short  nap. 

Before  midnight,  nerved  by  a  cup  of  strong  coffee,  we  mounted, 
and  six  leagues  of  rapid  riding  carried  us  to  the  post-house  of 
Istlan.  There  was  just  light  enough  by  the  moon  to  reveal  all  the 
quiet  beauty  of  the  little  town.  The  square  was  deserted  ;  not  a 
dog  bayed ;  the  noble  trees  with  drooping  branches  reposed  motion- 
less in  the  air  ;  not  a  sound  was  heard  but  the  uneasy  plashing  of 
the  sparkling  fountain  in  the  centre ;  and  there  was  not  a  vestigo 
of  life,  save  a  solitary  twinkling  taper  that  shone  through  the  open 


224  CHAPTER  XXX. 


door  of  the  post-house.  Our  shouts  echoed  back  from  the  tall 
walls  of  the  church  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  plaza,  and  soon 
brought  a  gruff  personage  to  the  street.  It  was  the  administrador 
himself.  He  inquired,  what  demonios  dared  to  raise  such  a  din, 
when  his  venerable  sire,  Don  Pancho,  was  stretched  upon  the 
bier,  and  masses  to  be  said  for  his  soul  as  soon  as  day  dawned? 
I  have  ever  remarked,  that  the  safest  mode  of  treating  perverse, 
obstinate  persons,  who  are  resolved  to  quarrel,  is  to  approach 
close  to  them,  in  a  moral  sense,  and — like  to  dealing  with  a  fierce 
ram  by  patting  him  on  the  tail — they  have  no  space  to  rear 
and  pitch  into  one.  It  is  time  enough  to  bid  defiance  when  this 
system  fails.  Bowing  to  the  saddle-bow,  hat  in  hand,  I  thus 
began :  "  Pardon  me,  my  good  friend  !  had  we  known  of  your 
bereavement,  be  assured  we  should  have  torn  our  teeth  out,,  rather 
than  have  disturbed  your  grief :  we  are  bound  extraor dinar io ! 
If  there  be  no  horses,  at  least  oblige  us  with  a  cup  of  water  to 
wash  down  a  measure  of  this  oily  licor  from  the  'grand  Meson 
of  Aguacatlan,  and  oblige  us  by  touching  it  first  to  your 
own  lips!"  I  saw  by  the  moon's  silver  beams  athwart  his  rubi- 
cund visage,  that  he  relented;  whereupon,  paying  him  some 
sorrowful  compliments  upon  the  demise  of  his  aged  parent,  I  quite 
conquered  his  anger.  Leaving  me  in  charge  of  the  defunct  old 
gentleman,  I  puffed  a  cigarillo,  while  he  went  to  get  beasts  for 
the  guides,  and  his  own  mule  for  my  use,  as  he  assured  me, 
bueno  y  rtiuy  vivo — lively  as  a  cricket.*,  In  a  few  minutes  we 
were  again  upon  the  road.  Skirting  along  the  banks  of  a  small 
river  for  a  couple  of  leagues,  we  then  crossed  to  the  opposite  side, 
where  hills  arose  in  endless  succession,  soaring  to  the  clouds  in 
the  distance,  and  where  we  were  destined  to  pass.  It  was  the 
Plan  de  Barrancas.  I  had  for  the  past  hour  been  venting 


PLAN  DE  BARRANCAS.  225 

maledictions  on  the  administrador  and  his  vivo  mule,  for  I  never 
saw  any  but  monks  and  muleteers  who  properly  understand  their 
peculiar  management.  To  one,  like  myself,  ignorant  of  the 
habits  of  these  quadrupeds — never  mind  how  expert  a  horseman 
he  may  be — if  they  ever  be  urged  out  of  their  usual  amble  on 
a  level  space,  their  gallop  is  such  a  jerking  short  pace,  that 
the  inexperienced  rider  will  be  kept  alternately  shifting  his 
position  from  withers  to  rump,  at  every  stride.  But  commend 
me  to  a  good  mule,  over  a  broken  country,  where  their  delicate 
little  hoofs  find  a  secure  foothold  over  shelving  rocks,  or  upon  the 
brink  of  a  yawning  precipice,  where  you  drop  the  bridle,  close 
your  eyes  and  offer  up  an  orison  for  your  blessed  mule  to  bear 
you  safely.  And  with  what  sagacity  they  feel  their  way,  and  how 
often  an  imprudent  rider  will  find  cause  to  bless  his  stars  that  the 
wilful  little  beast  takes  the  bit  in  the  mouth,  and  obstinately 
pursues  his  own  path  !  However,  as  I  said  before,  they  are  not 
pleasant  animals  when  the  danger  is  passed ;  then  they  become 
at  times  unreasonably  perverse,  and  persuasions,  punchings,  or 
spumngs,  only  serve  to  exhaust  strength  and  temper,  without  any 
avail. 

Our  speed  became  necessarily  slow,  the  country  more  and  more 
barren,  and  the  paths  stony  and  uneven ;  still  we  passed  from 
height  to  height,  gradually  ascending,  until  we  came  to  the  base 
of  the  great  Barrancas.  Here  •jpuch  to  my  surprise,  commenced 
a  well-constructed  military  road,  very  broad,  and  coped  in  by  a 
wall  of  loose  stones,  winding  around  the  eastern  brow  of  the  sierra. 
In  some  places  near  the  summit,  I  am  confident,  a  dollar  could  be 
thrown  four  thousand  feet  before  striking  the  base  of  the  gorge 
that  splits  the  great  chain  asunder.  The  view  was  bird-eyish,  and 
10* 


226  CHAPTER  XXX. 


rather  good — with  the  bright  green  dells  below,  in  pretty  contrast 
to  the  red  basaltic  rocks  above — but  limited  by  peaks  of  the 
surrounding  heights.  The  road  itself  is  a  far  more  substantial 
work  than  the-traveller  is  prepared  to  meet  with  in  this  part  of 
Mexico,  where  everything  relative  to  easy  locomotion  appears  to 
have  been  left  as  nature  and  the  mules  will  it.  "  Still,  but  little 
reputation  is  lost  in  the  way  of  consistency ;'  for  the  moment  the 
mountain  is  passed,  the  route  again  becomes  little  better  than  a 
sheep  path.  Although  crossing  this  fine  road  caused  me  some  aston- 
ishment ;  yet  a  little  before,  I  was  thrown  into  a  stupor  of  amaze- 
ment, to  behold  lying  in  the  pathway  a  long  iron  thirty -two  pounder 
gun,  of  the  heaviest "  ship's  calibre  and  weight !  My  mozos 
informed  ine,  that  this  was  the  only  one  out  of  six  that  did  not 
reach  Guadalajara  from  San  Bias — -a  distance  of  more  than  three 
hundred  miles!  They  were  intended  for  service  in  battery, 
during  the  revolt  of  1825.  Each  was  under  the  guidance  of  one 
hundred  and  fifty  Indians  with  animals,  and  it  occupied  many 
months  in  accomplishing  the  transit;  but  notwithstanding  these 
ample  means,  I'll  venture  to  affirm  that  no  one  in  his  natural 
senses,  after  making  the  journey,  could  be  induced  to  believe  that 
anything  greater  than  a  mule-pack — to  say  nothing  of  an  enor- 
mous piece  of  ordnance — could  be  transported  over  such  numbers 
of  streams,  ravines,  paths  and  mountains !  The  thing  seems 
nearly  impossible.  • 

We  toiled  over  the  Barrancas — threaded  the  valleys  below, 
when  taking  another  ascent,  we  attained  a  level,  barren  unculti- 
vated region,  and  shortly  drew  bridles  at  the  great  Meson  of 
Muchatilta.  From  an  outside  view  of  the  spacious  inn — its 
fanciful  frescos,  and  highly  brilliant  exterior — we  reasonably 
inferred  that  something  even  more  delectable  might  be  found 


MADALENA.  537 


within.  Yet  although  the  patrona  was  neither  ill-looking  nor 
ill-natured,  she  sicnto  'd  muchissimo,  and  still  declared  there 
was  naught  more  palatable  thanfrijoles.  However,  our  appetites 
were  koen,  and  we  made  a  good  deal  go  a  little  way,  for  we  had 
ridden  nineteen  leagues  since  midnight.  Bidding  adieu  to  my 
viro  mule,  by  patting  his  sleek  neck — not  the  least  the  worse  for 
his  work,  while  the  horses  were  well  nigh  done  up, — I  gave  him 
a  loaf  of  bread,  in  gratitude  for  bearing  me  safely.  With  a  fresh 
relay  of  horses,  and  the  sun  on  the  meridian,  we  left  the  brightly- 
painted  meson,  and  continued  our  journey.  Ever  since  mounting 
up  to  the  tier r a  tcmplada,  near  Topic,  the  climate  had  been 
delightful — neither  uncomfortably  warm  during  the  day,  nor 
too  cool  to  travel  with  a  serapa  at  night.  By  urging  our  cattle 
we  made  ten  leagues,  and  reached  the  town  of  Madalena  at 
twilight,  where  a  stubborn  old  administrador  refused  to  give  me  a 
change  of  horses.  The  fact  was  I  deceived  myself,  in  supposing 
the  journey  could  be  made  as  quickly  by  taking  a  cavallada  from 
one  city  to  another,  as  by  the  government  post ;  and  through 
ignorance  of  the  formalities,  I  had  omitted  to  take  out  a  license. 
It  is  a  very  simple  process,  and  consists  in  merely  paying 
exorbitantly,  at  about  the  rate  of  a  third  of  a  dollar  per  league 
for  the  privilege  of  demanding  beasts  from  agents  on  the  roads — 
that  is  supposing  they  are  to  be  had,  and  generally  they  are 
not ;  but  if  there  chance  to  be  found  any  beasts  in  the  corral,  they 
are  such  horrid  brutes,  as  not  to  be  worth,  even  to  a  cunning 
cabman,  the  rial  you  are  to  pay  per  league.  These  are  the 
animals  pertaining  to  the  Republic.  After  a  mournful  inspec- 
tion of  their  raw  hides  and  protruding  ribs,  the  administrador 
may  possibly  hint  that  if  the  traveller  requires  a  good  horse 
there  are  two  or  three  belonging  to  a  neighbor  that  might  be  pro- 


228  CHAPTER  XXX. 


cured  by  paying  over  and  over  the  legal  charge.  This  system  of 
corruption 'is  the  chief  cause  of  the  heavy  expense  of  travelling 
in  Mexico :  honesty  in  its  lightest  sense  is  unknown,  and  the 
principle  throughout  nearly  all  classes  is  one  of  fraud  and  extor- 
tion. Indeed  if  the  rage  for  foreign  travel  ever  leads  our  rising 
generations  to  extend  their  tours  to  these  lands,  their  respectable 
governors  will  deserve  much  sympathy  on  cashing  the  bills,  and 
perhaps  be  induced  to  believe  that  their  progeny  have  fallen 
among  the  Philistines. 

Finding  nothing  was  to  be  gained  from  the  Madelena  pro- 
prietor of  horse-flesh,  I  betook  myself  to  the  Alcalde  ;  my  special 
passport  making  it  imperative  on  all  military  and  civil  authorities 
to  afford  me  succor,  sustenance,  and  all  sorts  of  ausilios — that  is 
if  they  deemed  advisable  ; — but  I  depended  more  upon  the  yellow 
on§as  in  my  trowsers-pocket,  which  gave  a  zest  to  their  exertions, 
and  did  not  render  them  lukewarm  in  complying  with  the  orders 
conveyed  in  the  passport.  The  townspeople  were  under  arms,  and 
a  guard  of  some  thirty  paisanos  were  assembled  outside  the  court- 
room. They  received  me  with  a  "  present  arms,"  and  one  adept 
in  soldiership  let  his  musket  fall  to  the  stone  floor,  exploding  the 
piece,  and  driving  a  mass  of  paper  wads,  and  a  quantity  of  slugs, 
over  the  gateway  ;  whereupon  they  all  put  by  their  weapons,  and 
whacked  the  unfortunate  victim  over  the  head  with  sabres.  My 
terror  subsiding,  I  presented  myself  to  the  Alcalde,  whom  I  found — 
miralile  dictu — quite  a  civil,  intelligent  young  man.  He  informed 
me  that  a  strong  body  of  highwaymen  had  occupied  a  hill  within  a 
league  of  the  town,  and  every  evening  succeeded  in  carrying  off 
what  they  required,  by  breaking  into  houses,  maltreating  the 
residents,  and  robbing  every  man,  woman,  and  child  on  the 
road.  He  strongly  urged  me  to  defer  my  journey  until  troops 


WE  DISAPPOINT  THE  ROBBERS.  229 


which  wore  expected,  could  arrive,  and  in  this  he  was  seconded 
by  a  number  of  travellers,  who  were  also  awaiting  safe  convoy. 
The  advice,  though  well  intended,  was  far  from  changing  my 
purpose  to  proceed,  and  after  receipting  for  the  value  of  the  horses 
in  case  of  capture,  I  prepared  for  a  start.  There  being  no 
regular  soldiers  in  the  place,  no  money  could  induce  the  timid 
paisanos  to  act  as  escort ;  and  then  I  began  to  discover  the  true 
value  of  my  guides.  They  had  been  under  the  ban  of  my  dis- 
pleasure for  cheating  me  with  their  beasts  ;  but  they  had 
determined  faces,  and  in  reply  to  my  question  if  they  intended 
to  fight,  both  exclaimed,  Ilasla  mucrto  !  Senor — until  death  ! — 
this  restored  them  to  favor.  Entrusting  each  with  a  sum  of 
money,  I  drew  the  loads  from  their  carbines,  carefully  recharged 
them  with  balls  and  buck-shot,  looked  to  my  own  pistols,  and 
mounted.  Moving  quietly  through  the  back  streets  of  the  town, 
we  struck  the  main  road,  where  we  encountered  a  poor  Padre 
who  had  been  robbed  of  seventeen  dollars,  relieved  of  his  mule, 
and  stripped  of  all  his  raiment,  save  gown  and  cravat.  Santa 
Maria  !  said  my  mozos — "  no  respect  for  the  church  !  "  The 
good  priest  gave  us  his  blessing,  and  the  exact  position  of  the 
villains.  Adios,  mi  padre  .'  It  was  eleven  at  night,  the  moon  was 
rising,  and  we  kept  the  horses  nearly  as  possible  in  the  shade  of  the 
roadside  foliage — going  very  leisurely — until  on  the  slope  of  a  hill 
to  the  right,  we  saw  a  number  of  fires  casting  a  lurid  blaze  around, 
and  figures  moving  before  them.  Approaching  nearer,  a  din  of 
shouts,  chaunts,  and  laughter,  saluted  our  ears,  for  the  rogues 
were  evidently  making  merry  over  their  potations.  The  road 
sounded  hollow  over  the  hard  clay,  and  on  descending  a  narrow 
canal-like  passage,  that  just  left  our  heads  visible  above,  we  un- 
slung  carbines,  and  with  cocked  weapons,  I  gave  the  word — 


230  .'CHAPTER  XXX. 


Vamavos — let  us  fly.  The  noise  of  horses'  hoofs  thundering  over 
the  hard  ground  instantly  attracted  attention  ;  we  were  greeted  by 
loud  yells  of  Quien  es  1  halta  !  halta  ! — and  plainly  saw  a  score 
or  more  running  to  intercept  us,  with  the  barrels  of  their  arms 
glancing  in  the  moonlight ;  but  deuce  the  syllable  did  we  utter, 
but  driving  the  spur  yet  deeper  into  our  steeds,  we  went  flying 
along,  single  file ;  in  thirty  seconds  we  were  shielded  by  a  high 
wall  of  rocks,  and  in  a  short  time  had  lost  sight  and  sound  of  our 
pursuers.  I  think  they  were  quite  unprepared  for  travellers  at  so 
late  an  hour,  or  our  flight  could  easily  have  been  barred.  Yet 
it  is  anything  else  than  a  joke,  to  be  encircled  by  a  legion  of  these 
scamps — stripped  stark  naked — certainly  beaten  and  robbed — or 
perhaps  shot.  Besides  there  are  so  many  nice  secluded  spots,  where, 
like  Fra  Diavolo,  "  on  a  rock  reclining,"  behind  a  jutting  ledge, 
or  precipice,  these  rascals  could  insinuate  the  dark  barrel  of  a 
carbine  in  one's  ear,  and  cry  Entregarse,  o  no  la  Vida  ! — sur- 
render, or  your  life  !-— Not  pleasant,  surely,  and  I  was  delighted 
to  escape  scot  free — clothed  in  my  breeks. 

At  full  gallop  we  rode  into  the  town  of  Tequilla :  considerably 
fatigued,  for  I  had  not  slept  in  forty  hours,  excepting  perhaps 
now  and  then  a  brief  cat-nap  in  the  saddle — of  a  second  or  two 
duration — wherein  one  may  dream  of  years  of  adventure.  How- 
ever, I  determined  to  hold  on  twelve  leagues  beyond,  to  Guada- 
lajara. It  was  daylight,  and  I  found  Tequilla  quite  a  large  place : 
with  picturesque  church,  clusters  of  fine  trees,  all  snugly  posed  in  a 
bowl-like  valley — fertile  and  well  watered,  with  extensive  planta- 
tions of  the  argave  extending  far  as  the  eye  could  compass,  over 
the  neighboring  country. 

Whilst  a  relay  of  horses  were  being  sent  for,  the  landlord  of 
the  meson  accompanied  me  to  a  running  brook,  where  I  cooled 


CITY  OF  GUADALAJARA  231 

my  jolted  frame — swallowed  a  bowl  of  coffee,  lit  a  cigar,  and 
learned  that  we  were  the  first  travellers  who  had  passed  in  five 
days,  and  that  a  detachment  of  cavalry  was  hourly  looked  for,  to 
dislodge  the  rogues  near  Madelena.  Feeling  now  indifferent  about 
the  matter,  we  got  into  the  saddle,  and  once  more  gave  spur 
towards  our  destination.  The  road  was  tolerable,  the  horses  were 
better,  and  the  country  became  more  populous.  Once  the 
grateful  steam  of  fried  fish  involuntarily  caused  me  to  halt  for  a 
hasty  breakfast;  but  it  was  only  for  a  moment — when  on  we 
rushed,  up  hill  and  down  slope,  splashing  over  water-courses — 
passing  huge,  ungainly  carts  with  hewn  timber  wheels,  creaking 
and  groaning  to  market,  while  vehicles  also  of  a  more  modern  build 
lumbered  slowly  along,  with  six  or  eight  mules  ahead.  Then  I 
doffed  my  sombrero  to  a  gay  young  officer  in  advance  of  a  well- 
appointed  troop  of  cavalry,  and,  with  horses  white  with  foam,  we 
dismounted  at  the  outer  garita  of  Guadalajara.  It  was  a  small 
village  and  military  post,  seven  leagues  from  the  city,  having  a 
great  stone  arch  and  gateway  commanding  the  road.  Another 
relay,  and  an  hour's  gallop  brought  the  spires  and  towers  of  the 
goodly  town  in  sight — standing  in  the  midst  of  an  immense  plain, 
and  watered  by  a  branch  of  the  Rio  Grande.  Passing  through  a 
town,  with  a  noble  church  and  convent,  we  crossed  the  river  by 
a  substantial  stone  bridge,  where  stood  statues  of  Santa  Anna  and 
other  patriots,  with  their  noses  knocked  off,  and  faces  other- 
wise scarified.  After  being  detained  for  inspection  at  a  guard- 
house, we  entered  the  city  proper,  through  long  lines  of  paved 
streets,  until  we  pulled  up  in  front  of  the  palace,  at  the  house 
of  Don  Domingo  Llamas,  to  whom  I  had  letters. 


CHAPTER    XXXI. 


GUADALAJARA  is  a  beautiful  city,  of  an  hundred  thousand 
people,  laid  out  in  broad,  regular  streets,  with  solid  and  imposing 
houses,  painted  outside  gaily  in  frescoes — and  plazas,  fountains, 
shady  alauiedas,  richly  adorned  churches,  and  fine  public  buildings. 
It  is  the  capital  of  the  populous  province  of  Jalisco,  famed  for  its 
wealth,  and  only  second  in  importance  to  the  city  of  Mexico  itself. 
The  crowds  of  well-dressed  pedestrians  that  thronged  the  streets 
and  squares,  the  well-appointed  troops,  elegance  of  the  buildings, 
and  smart  appearance  of  equipages  and  dashing  horsemen,  all  gave 
the  air,  even  at  a  rapid  glance,  of  great  ease  and  opulence. 

The  gentleman  to  whom  I  was  endorsed,  Seiior  Llamas,  had 
been  in  early  life  an  arriero,  but  by  the  force  of  merit  and  ability 
he  had  urged  himself  to  his  level,  and  became  a  person  of  immense 
wealth,  universally  respected,  and  occupying  a  place  of  high 
judicial  trust  under  the  state.  He  possessed  more  energy,  quick- 
ness and  enthusiasm,  than  any  Mexican  I  met  with,  before  or 
since.  After  arranging  in  the  minutest  details  everything  for  my 
comfort  and  speed  on  the  road,  I  went  to  a  very  good  stopping- 
place,  the  Fonda  de  Diligencia.  Here  I  bathed,  and  slept  until 
the  streets  became  noisy  with  vehicles  and  horses  passing  for  the 
afternoon's  drive.  Facing  my  balcony,  in  an  opposite  dwelling, 
there  appeared  a  lady  of  exceeding  beauty,  or,  as  the  porter  of  the 


THE  LOVELY  SENORA.  233 


hotel  told  me  in  reply  to  niy  exclamation,  Si  ScTior  !  bonita  como 
un  peso — lovely  as  a  dollar.  She  first  appeared  at.  the  gilt- railed 
balcony  in  the  dishabille  of  the  country,  that  is,  with  only  skirts  of 
the  dress — the  sleeves  and  bodice  hanging  down  in  front  j  leaving 
the  person  from  waist  up  only  slightly  concealed  by  the  camisetta, 
which  half  reveals  and  half  hides  the  shoulders  and  bosom.  One 
must  be  blind,  indeed,  not  to  become  something  of  a  connoisseur 
in  female  beauty,  after  residing  any  length  of  time  in  Mexico ; 
for  the  flimsy  veil,  which  is  usually  worn  in  the  day  by  all  classes 
of  women,  only  serves,  by  the  pliant  grace  of  their  movements,  to 
render  their  forms  more  defined  and  attractive.  But  to  return 
to  my  vis-a-vis.  At  a  second  visit  to  the  balcony,  the  bodice 
was  laced,  and  superb  masses  of  hair  fell  like  a  dark  cloud  over 
neck  and  arms.  At  a  later  period  the  toilette  was  completed, 
with  a  lace  mantilla,  and  her  tresses  braided  in  two  long  plaits. 
A  dear  little  baby  was  crowing  upon  her  breast,  and  the  beautiful 
Scfiora  amused  herself  by  entwining  and  knotting  the  braids  of 
her  hair  under  the  infant's  arms,  when  she  swung  the  little  fellow 
to  and  fro,  in  the  most  graceful  manner  conceivable.  I  never 
beheld  so  charming  a  duct.  The  bell  sounded  for  dinner — there 
was  a  well-set  table,  and  among  a  number  of  pleasant  conversible 
persons,  I  made  the  acquaintance  of  a  particularly  intelligent  and 
amiable  priest,  who  very  kindly  acted  as  cicerone  in  my  after 
rambles.  We  rose  from  the  table  d'hote  as  the  military  band 
began  the  night's  performance  in  the  plaza.  The  marble-paved 
paths  and  the  benches  were  filled  before  we  got  there,  and  we  found 
some  difficulty  in  getting  places  ;  but  when  my  cigar  got  fairly 
under  way,  and  eyes  widely  open,  I  did  and  do  still  take  it  upon 
me  to  affirm,  that  no  town  in  the  universe  can  boast  of  so  much 
female  beauty.  Not  only  were  they  in  fives,  but  fifties.  My 


234  CHAPTER  XXXI. 


friend,  the  little  Padro,  appeared  to  be  very  generally  beloved. 
Nearly  all  paused  a  moment  to  say  a  kind  word  or  greeting,  and 
thus  I  had  a  clear  chance  of  observing  the  pretty  throngs  that 
swept  by.  They  were  so  tastefully  attired  in  full  flowing  and  be- 
coming skirts,  with  no  awkward  stays  or  corsets  to  cramp  the  grace 
of  motion — the  coquettish  ribosa,  never  quiet  an  instant,  but 
changing  its  silken  folds,  and  half  revealing  the  glancing  neck  and 
arm  ! — the  hair,  too  ;  such  hair !  ay  de  mi  !  no  odious  bonnets  to 
conceal  God's  fair  handiwork ! — then  their  arched  tiny  feet, 
kissing  the  marble  pavement,  with  so  firm,  so  light,  yet  dignified 
a  tread — and  then  the  elders,  sailing  majestically  astern  of  their 
Iqvely  convoys — like  ships  of  the  line — regarding  with  wary  eyes 
privateers  in  disguise  of  gay  young  cavaliers,  crossing  their  track. 
Hold  !  what  blockade  could  intercept  those  softly  audible  murmurs ! 
or  the  light  downy  touch  of  dimpled  fingers,  quick  as  a  swallow's 
kiss  to  his  mate !  or,  more  than  all,  withstand  the  languid,  light- 
ning glances  flashed  from  their  upper  deck  of  eyes !  Ave  puris- 
sima  !  the  waking  hours  by  day,  and  sleepless  ones  by  night,  that 
Spanish  maidens  have  caused  me !  "  I  'm  not  a  lover  now,"  but 
still,  I  derived  great  consolation  in  admiring  these  sweet  donyellas ; 
and  fearing  a  relapse  to  former  maladies,  I  shook  hands  with 
the  Padre,  buckled  on  spurs  and  sabre,  and  as  the  cathedral  bell 
was  tolling  ten,  I  was  leaving  Guadalajara,  with  its  blaze  of  lights 
and  beauty,  behind  me. 

Taking  the  main  road  for  three  hours,  we  crossed  the  Great 
Bridge,  and  turning  to  the  north,  struck  the  route  of  the 
Haciendas,  which  in  lieu  of  smooth  travelling  and  robbers,  pos- 
sessed the  advantages  of  safety,  and  a  more  direct  communication 
to  the  interior.  At  daylight,  we  had  ridden  nineteen  leagues,  on 
capital  animals,  who  never  once  slackened  the  reins  in  their 


OLD  CYPRIANO.  235 

mouths.  I  was  not  only  indebted  to  Don  Domingo  for  these  excel- 
lent adjuncts  to  my  journey,  but  for  a  few  written  lines  also,  to 
divers  persons  along  the  road,  which  seemed  to  infuse  them  with  a 
portion  of  their  master's  energy ;  besides,  he  had  sent  his  own 
trusty  courier  with  me  as  guide.  This  was  an  old  man  of  sixty, 
strong,  active,  and  honest :  in  youth  he  had  proved  himself  a  brave 
soldier ;  in  virtue  of  which  he  was  permitted  to  carry — besides 
hi.s  carbine — a  long  lance,  and  pennon  that  fluttered  in  the  breeze, 
lie  frequently  went  without  sleep,  for  three  days  and  nights 
successively,  when  riding  express  for  his  patron.  I  made  old 
Cypriano  my  commissary,  and  he  always  became  frightfully 
incensed,  when  called  upon  to  pay  more  than  he  deemed  the 
service  demanded ;  but  again  he  would  laugh  heartily,  when 
urging  a  beast  that  had  been  overcharged,  with  a  lash  and  a 
kick  at  every  leap — which  he  called  taking  u  medios  worth. 
Indeed  Cypriano,  from  long  riding,  had  become  a  little  callous, 
in  thus  visiting  the  sins  of  the  masters  upon  the  beasts,  and 
believed  in  the  superstition,  that  hired  horses  had  no  souls. 

The  face  of  the  country  was  fast  losing  its  abruptness  ;  moun- 
tains were  verging  into  hills  with  table  tops,  and  long  sweeping 
undulations  stretching  awD.y  in  the  hazy  distance.  It  was  very 
open,  fertile,  and  well-tilled,  but  neither  wooded,  nor  so  profusely 
watered  as  the  lands  seaward  of  Guadalajara. 

Early  in  the  afternoon  we  entered  the  little  town  of  Tepan- 
titlan,  where  a  huge  wheezing  gentleman  gave  me  a  brute  troubled 
with  his  own  complaint,  but  transferring  him  to  the  treatment  of 
Doctor  Cypriano,  wo  then  got  on  in  fine  style.  The  night  was 
far  advanced  when  we  reached  a  round,  portly  mountain,  called 
Cerro  Gordo ;  where  tarrying  at  a  small  settlement,  the  keeper  of 
a  rancho  surlily  resisted  opening  his  gateway,  until  he  heard  the 


236  CHAPTER    XXXI. 


talismanic  name  of  Don  Domingo — then  the  door  nearly  flew  off 
the  hinges.  A  relay  was,  with  some  delay  and  trouble,  procured, 
when  again  in  the  saddle.  The  road  was  stony  and  tortuous,  so 
that  we  had  thirteen  tedious  leagues  to  crawl  and  stumble  over. 
Gladly  we  threw  ourselves  from  the  fagged-out  beasts,  and  sought 
the  residence  of  a  good-natured  paisano,  owning  a  large  rancho, 
a  large  wife,  and  two  large  daughters.  Giving  orders  to  be  called 
in  an  hour,  my  spurs  were  no  sooner  unclasped  than  I  fell  into  heavy 
slumber,  on  a  low  bed  beneath  an  image  of  the  virgin.  When  the 
time  had  expired,  I  was  aroused  by  my  faithful  guide.  One  of 
the  girls  was  seated  on  the  ground,  near  the  fire,  with  a  stone 
trough  and  roller  before  her,  busily  employed  with  a  batch  of 
unleavened  dough,  of  which,  when  consistently  kneaded,  she  would 
catch  up  a  dab,  press  it  between  the  palms,  and  as  the  mass 
enlarged  she  began  patting  and  tossing  it  from  hand  to  hand  until 
it  spread  into  round,  thin  cakes  ;  they  were  then  laid  upon  a  flat 
piece  of  sheet-iron,  and  browned  over  the  fire ;  these  were 
tortillas  :  they  have  a  taste  like  the  oaten-cakes  in  Scotland,  and 
are  not  particularly  palatable  to  a  young  practitioner.  A  chicken 
had  also  been  grilled  on  sticks,  which,  with  a  mixture  they  called 
coffee,  served  me  for  breakfast. 

Horses  were  ready  in  the  corral,  and  saying  adios  to  the  fat 
family,  we  galloped,  away.  A  bathe  in  a  roadside  brook,  and 
two  changes  of  beasts,  and  at  three  in  the  afternoon  we  toiled 
slowly  over  some  dry,  chalky  hills,  and  looked  down  upon  Los 
Pueblos  del  Rincon.  It  was  a  very  pretty,  verdant  spot,  almost 
hidden  in  foliage,  and  reposing  in  an  angle  of  wide  and  extended 
plateau.  Having  a  note  to  the  Commandante,  I  went  straight  to 
his  quarters :  but  being  a  merchant  as  well  as  soldier,  I  was  told 
he  could  be  found  at  his  shop,  in  the  plaza.  On  going  thither  he  was 


PUEBLOS  DEL  RINCON.  237 


indulging  in  siesta,  and  notwithstanding  the  urgency  of  my 
requests,  no  one  could  be  found  foolhardy  enough  to  disturb  his 
slumbers ;  nor  was  I  permitted  to  do  so  myself.  I  then  trotted 
across  the  square,  and  presented  my  passports  to  the  Alcalde,  who 
having  already  been  mollified  by  repose,  consented  to  find  some 
brave  individual  to  awaken  the  sleeping  rajah  opposite.  "  Scnor," 
said  I,  hat  in  hand,  "  very  sorry  to  incommode  you,  but  necessity 
of  the  case,"  and  so  forth.  He  continued  scowling  quite  fero- 
ciously while  buttoning  his  trowsers,  and  as  he  pulled  over  his 
suspenders,  and  arranged  them  to  his  satisfaction,  demanded  what 
was  wanted.  "  Oh,  nothing  !  "  said  I,  "  merely  an  order  from 
General  Yanes  in  Guadalajara,"  throwing  the  missive  towards 
him.  It  acted  as  a  charm :  "  Jcsw,  SeTior,  excuse  me — those 
rascals  never  told  me  you  were  waiting  !  " 

Good  animals  were  soon  provided;  and  amid  all  Don  Manuel 
Garcia's  generosity,  he  was  pleased  to  sell  me  a  bottle  of  sour 
wine  from  the  ticiula  ;  for  which  we  ran  his  beasts,  with  a  heavy 
thunder-storm  of  wind  and  rain  close  upon  our  heels  for  a  long 
six  leagues.  The  road  had  led  through  a  rich,  level  district, 
covered  with  forests  of  fine  timber,  and  abounding  in  cultivated 
fields  of  grain.  Presently  clusters  of  spires  and  towers  sprang 
from  the  plain,  and  coursing  through  suburbs  of  walled  gardens, 
convents,  and  country  dwellings — all  gratefully  reposing  beneath 
the  shade  of  overhanging  trees — we  entered  the  city  of  Leon.  It 
includes,  with  the  environs,  a  thriving  population  of  near  sixty 
thousand  souls ;  delightfully  situated  in  the  heart  of  one  of  the 
most  salubrious  table-lands  of  the  higher  terraces  of  Mexico. 
The  town,  though  inferior  to  Guadalajara  in  elegance,  can  still 
boast  of  much  manufacturing  wealth,  with  fine  churches,  spacious 
squares,  and  great  uniformity  in  the  general  construction  of  the 


238  CHAPTER  XXXI. 

houses,  while  streams  of  pure  water  traverse  it  in  every  street, 
and  irrigate  the  extensive  suburbs  around.  Indeed,  let  a 
Spaniard  alone  for  choosing  a  pleasant  site,  near  good  water ;  not 
that  these  their  descendants  have  any  cleanly  predilections  that 
way,  for,  on  the  contrary — except  for  the  commonest  purposes  of 
drinking — their  general  filthiness  of  habit  induces  the  belief  that 
they  are  universally  imbued  with  a  hydrophobial  aversion 
thereto. 

We  rode  through  one  of  the  main  avenues  of  the  city,  and 
entered  the  grand  plaza  as  the  great  bell  of  the  cathedral  was 
slowly  tolling  for  oration,  and  unconsciously  we  checked  the 
horses,  to  behold  a  vast  concourse  of  many  thousands  silently 
kneel — with  uncovered  heads,  and  faces  turned  towards  the 
church — whilst  all  was  hushed  to  perfect  stillness.  I  never  was 
more  deeply  impressed  with  an  emotion  of  awe  and  solemnity. 

Three  sides  of  the  large  square  were  lined  with  portales,  or 
arcades  ;  with  every  arehway  and  open  space  filled  with  venders 
of  glass,  cigars,  cutlery,  saddlery,  bridlery,  and  every  kind  of 
horse  equipment ;  all,  however,  destitute  of  workmanlike  finish. 
The  plaza  itself  was  crowded  with  itinerant  traders,  screaming  in 
every  possible  intonation  of  voice,  their  different  wares.  Stalls  and 
booths  were  also  doing  a  large  business  in  licores  and  fried  bits  of 
meat,  frijoles  and  tortillas,  but  what  carried  away  the  commercial 
palm  by  long  odds,  were  the  dulce  women.  There  were  a  number 
of  these  popular  saleswomen,  squatted  beneath  huge  umbrellas, 
full  ten  feet  in  diameter — surrounded  by  crowds  of  buyers — to 
whom  they  were  dispensing  papers  of  colored  sugars,  candies,  and 
sweatmeats  unceasingly.  I  passed  them  again  the  next  morning, 
when  they  appeared  busy  as.  ever ;  and  I  was  an  eye-witness  to  a 
little  incident,  wherein  a  centavo's  worth  of  sugar  was  the  cause  of 


A  KNIFE  DUEL  239 

a  fatal  stab.  A  lepero  was  purchasing  a  bit  of  chocolate — it  fell 
in  the  dirt,  when  another,  probably  thinking  it  a  lawful  prize, 
seized  it,  and  took  a  large  bite  ;  whereupon  the  lawful  owner 
swung  a  mass  of  heavy  steel  spurs  attached  to  his  wrist,  jingling 
with  some  force,  on  the  offender's  head.  In  a  second  down 
dropped  the  spurs,  and  scrapas  were  wound  round  the  left  arms. 
With  low,  deep  curses  and  flashing  eyes,  their  knives  gleamed  in 
the  light ;  the  spectators  cleared  a  ring,  and  to  work  they  went. 
I  sprang  upon  a  stone  pillar,  to  be  out  of  harm's  way,  and  thus 
had  a  clear  view  of  the  fray.  Their  blades  were  very  unequally 
matched :  one  was  at  least  eight  inches,  and  the  other  not  half 
that  measurement ;  but  both  appeared  adepts  at  the  game, — 
watching  each  other  like  wild  cats,  ready  for  a  spring — moving 
cautiously  to  and  fro,  making  feints  by  the  shielded  arm,  or 
stamp  of  the  foot,  for  a  minute  or  two  ;  when,  quick  as  a  flash,  I 
saw  two  rapid  passes  made  by  both :  blood  spirted  from  an  ugly 
wound  in  the  spur-vender's  throat,  but  at  the  same  moment  his 
short  weapon  sealed  the  doom  of  his  antagonist,  and  he  lay 
stretched  upon  the  ground,  as  lifeless  as  the  bloody  steel  that 
struck  him.  I  glanced  at  the  wounds  after  the  affair  had  ter- 
minated, and  found  the  knife  had  been  plunged  twice  directly  in 
the  region  of  the  heart.  There  was  no  effort  or  attempt  made  by 
the  beholders  to  arrest  the  parties ;  and  the  survivor  caught  up 
his  spurs — a  bystander  quickly  folded  a  handsome  kerchief  to  his 
neck — and  threading  the  crowd  he  was  soon  out  of  sight.  The 
corpse  was  laid  upon  a  liquor-stand,  with  a  delf  platter  upon  the 
breast. 

My  letter  was  to  apparently  the  mercantile  nabob  of  Leon, 
Don  Miguel  Obregon.  He  had  a  long  range  of  tiendas,  with  a 
handsome  dwelling  filling  a  large  space,  facing  the  square.  Hfc 


,840  CHAPTER  XXXI. 


received  me  civilly — had  places  taken  in  the  diligence,  which 
fortunately  left  the  following  morning — and  leaving  my  horse- 
trappings  in  his  charge,  I  engaged  a  jannty  young  valet,  who  looked 
far  more  respectable  than  his  new  master.  He  was  dressed  in  blue 
velvet  slashed  trowsers,  silver  buttons  thick  as  peas,  embroidered 
shirt,  with  a  glazed  sombrero  and  silver  band.  Juan  conducted 
me  to  a  meson,  which,  like  all  other  native  inns  in  the  republic 
of  Mexico,  has  two  large  enclosures,  or  court  yards :  the  inner 
ones  with  stalls  for  beasts,  and  the  other  for  bipeds — the  only 
difference  is,  that  the  accommodations  for  the  latter  animals  are 
closer  and  the  apartments  more  confined,  having  as  a  luxury  a 
chair,  and  solid  brick  structures  raised  a  little  way  from  the  ground, 
whereon  one  may  sleep,  if  he  can  endure  the  filth  and  fleas.  This 
is  all  the  furniture  they  rejoice  in.  Each  lodger  has  a  key  to  his 
own  quarters,  and  the  main  gateway  is  guarded  continually — not, 
however,  sufficiently  vigilant  as  to  the  society  admitted ;  for  the 
patios  are  crowded  with  improper  persons,  who  every  few  minutes 
make  flying  trips  around  the  inn,  knocking  at  the  doors ;  then, 
droves  of  beasts  coming  or  going — clattering  over  the  paved  yards, 
mingled  with  the  whistles  and  shouts  of  the  arrieros — are  not 
altogether  provocative  of  repose.  At  the  Caravanserai  where  I 
lodged,  there  was  a  hump-backed  Ganymede,  of  the  most 
hideous  kind.  I  have  thought  since,  he  would  have  been  a  mine 
of  wealth  to  an  enterprising  showman ;  or,  in  the  dark  ages,  have 
made  an  acceptable  present  to  some  bold  Baron.  Although  not 
more  than  five  feet  in  height,  his  thin  lucifer-match-like  legs,  being 
split  up  to  the  hump,  gave  him  the  stride  of  a -giant !  and  what  with 
keen,  glitering,  beady  eyes,  and  the  footfall  of  a  cat,  he  made  my 
flesh  creep  whenever  he  came  near  me. 

Every  body  is  his  own  cook  and  housekeeper  in   Mexican 


MEXICAN  HOTELS.  241 

mesons ;  and  old  Cypriano  having  procured  mo  a  wool  mattrass 
that  fairly  danced  with  ptilgas,  and  some  long  tallow  links,  which 
we  stuck  around  the  walls — having  no  fears  of  a  conflagration — I 
despatched  Juan  for  the  best  supper  to  be  found.  This  amounted 
to  red  wine,  beans  and  sausages.  However,  we  made  merry,  and 
treated  some  gay  damsels  outside  to  the  remains  of  our  bottle 
Cypriano  then  extinguished  our  illumination,  and  stretching  him- 
self on  the  threshold,  covered  by  his  serapa,  with  a  weapon  beside 
him,  he  left  me  to  repose.  It  was  my  first  night's  rest  since 
leaving  San  Bias,  that  is,  if  the  pile  of  bricks  and  mortar  which 
upheld  my  frame  could  reasonably  be  supposed  to  afford  it.  Yet 
the  fleas,  for  once,  caused  me  no  sensible  annoyance,  and  I 
regained  my  feet  at  sunrise,  in  readiness  for  further  journeyings. 
I  was  pleased,  too,  at  the  prospect  of  quitiiiig  the  saddle  for  a 
coach,  although  with  good  beasts  I  preferred  the  former :  but 
to  be  subjected  to  the  misery  of  a  racker — then  a  pacer — then  a 
trot  or  gallop — and  by  way  of  change,  a  horrible  combination  of  all, 
with  rapid  travelling,  is  not  only  enough  to  jar  one's  nerves  and 
aid  his  digestion,  but  to  give  a  disinclination  for  a  continuance  of  it. 

Parting  with  old  Cypriano,  who  gave  me  some  sensible  advice 
about  entrusting  Juan  with  too  much  change,  I  sought  the 
Diligence  Fonda — swallowed  a  hasty  breakfast,  and  with  no 
heavier  baggage  than  a  spare  shirt  and  tooth-brush,  took  my 
place. 

Contrary  to  expectation,  and  agreeably  disappointed,  I  found 
the  coach  a  thorough  modern-built  Yankee  vehicle — comfortable 
and  strong,  with  noble  teams  of  five  and  six  horses,  that  tugged 
us  along  quite  ten  miles  the  hour.  The  road  was  good,  and  a 
heavy  shower  had  slaked  the  dust.  The  country  was  again  broken 
into  rocky  hills  and  ravines.  At  two  o'clock  we  reached  the 
11 


242  CHAPTER  XXXI. 


richest  mining  district  of  Mexico,  in  the  neighborhood  of  Guana- 
juato. Within  a  league  of  the  city  proper  the  route  leads 
through  a  valley  into  a  deep  split  gorge,  with  rugged,  arid  hills 
running  high  up  on  all  sides.  Passing  a  number  of  mining 
haciendas  of  great  extent,  the  city,  bit  by  bit,  begins  to  unfold 
itself.  It  presents  a  most  extraordinary  and  picturesque  appear- 
ance. The  houses  seem  toppling  one  upon  the  other — built  in 
zig-zags,  up  and  down  sharp  corners  and  defiles — with  the  spire 
or  towers  of  some  church  perched  away  in  mid-heaven,  all  brightly 
frescoed — the  bases  and  gorges  below  being  filled  in  with  thick 
mist — leaving  the  loftier  portions  in  distinct  outline — closely 
resembling  a  city  suspended  in  the  sky.  No  scene  of  the  theatre 
could  be  painted  more  singularly  novel.  It  fairly  made  me  giddy, 
as  we  came  whirling  through  the  outer  defiles — turning  hither  and 
thither — catching  a  panoramic  view  of  the  town,  like  a  glimpse 
in  a  prism,  or  revolutions  of  a  kaleidoscope — when  every  moment 
one  might  expect  the  whole  fabric  thrown  into  a  sparkling  sue-  ' 
cession  of  bright  colors — and  what  with  the  continual  booming 
of  reports  from  blastings  in  the  distant  mines,  I  felt  quite  relieved 
when  the  diligence  dashed  down  a  little  pit  of  a  plaza,  and  drove 
through  a  porte  cocker  into  the  court-yard  of  our  Fonda. 

My  coach  companions  were  pleasant  fellows — there  was  a 
padre,  two  mining  agents,  a  gentlemanly  young  Mexican  officer 
who  had  been  adjutant  to  Valencia,  at  the  battle  of  Churubusco, 
and  beside  me  sat  a  gentleman  possessing  a  remarkably  handsome 
face  and  person,  with  the  loss  of  his  right  arm.  He  was  French, 
Mons.  Ribaud ;  he  had  been  many  years  in  the  country — was 
intimately  associated  with  the  leading  chiefs  and  revolutions  of 
Mexico — had  fought  desperately,  bore  the  marks  of  honorable 
wounds,  and  was  a  man  of  much  military  experience  and  acknow- 


MINT  OF  GUANAJUATO.  243 

• 

lodged  bravery ;  but  latterly,  owing  to  strong  personal  hostility 
existing  between  him  and  Santa  Anna,  he  had  not  been  employed 
in  battles  of  the  North  or  valley  of  Mexico.  I  found  Monsieur 
Ribaud  delightful  in  conversation,  and  he  related  to  me  many 
adventures  that  had  befallen  him  during  his  long  residence  in  the 
republic.  On  alighting  from  the  coach,  I  attended  him  to  the 
commandante's,  where  my  passport  wa£  properly  considered  and 
countersigned,  and  an  aide-de-camp  kindly  volunteered  to  be  my 
guide  to  the  mint  of  the  English  directory.  Here  I  was  pre- 
sented to  the  superintendent,  Mr.  Jones,  an  American,  from  Con- 
necticut, who  appeared  pleased  to  meet  a  countryman,  and  showed 
me  over  the  establishment. 

The  machinery  was  of  the  most  primitive  kind — the  stamping 
process  worked  by  hand,  with  a  lateral  wooden  beam  acting  upon 
a  perpendicular  screw ;  at  each  end  of  the  beam  there  was  at- 
tached a  small  rope,  pulled  by  four  men,  with  an  aperture  in  the 
floor  sufficiently  large  to  admit  a  man,  just  within  arm's  length 
of  the  stamp,  who  was  employed  placing  smooth  coins  beneath 
the  dies — one  would  naturally  suppose  at  the  imminent  risk  of 
having  his  finger  and  thumb  nipped  off  at  every  half  revolution 
of  the  lever ;  but  practice  renders  the  operative  skilful  at  the 
manipulation,  and  the  screw  descends,  makes  the  impression, 
which  is  as  regularly  displaced  by  the  smooth  dollar  and  ready 
fingers  of  the  man  below.  There  were  two  of  these  aparatus,  and 
they  were  only  able  to  coin  about  thirty  thousand  pieces  in  twenty- 
four  hours.  The  contrivance  is  surely  a  bad  one,  very  tedious 
and  expensive.  The  coiners  received  seven-eighths  of  a  dollar  per 
thousand,  and  instances  of  dishonesty  were  rarely  known.  The  dies 
were  of  English  manufacture,  but  the  reason  why  Mexican  money 
presents  such  a  rough  and  unfinished  appearance,  is  purely  owing 


244  CHAPTER  XXXI. 


to  their  government,  who  insist  upon  the  impressions  being  fac 
similes  of  those  heretofore  coined  at  their  own  mints. 

The  smelting  process,  the  rolling,  nipping,  and  milling  machines, 
were  all  much  behind  the  age,  and  although  the  silver  mines  were 
producing  more  than  ever  before  known,  and  more  than,  at  the 
period  of  my  visit,  could  by  any  possibility  be  coined,  yet  the 
directory  have  taken  no  measures  to  introduce  the  valuable  and 
beautiful  labor-saving  improvements  now  in  operation  in  Europe 
and  the  United  States,  where  the  same  work  could  be  accomplished 
by  fewer  persons,  executed  certainly  at  infinitely  less  expense, 
and  with  far  greater  facility  and  despatch. 

I  saw  vast  piles  of  pure  metal  in  the  vaults,  and  uncountable 
masses  of  dollars.  Before  leaving,  I  was  introduced  to  Mr. 
Bruff,  treasurer  to  the  institution,  who,  with  Mr.  Jones,  treated 
me  with  every  attention  and  civility. 

Our  Fonda  de  la  diligencia  was  well  kept,  commodious  and 
respectable  ;  we  sat  down  to  the  ordinary  as  a  multitude  of  sweet- 
sounding  bells  were  ringing  and  chiming  away  with  their  brazen 
throats  for  evening  vespers,  and  after  partaking  of  a  Frenchified 
Mexican  dinner,  I  sallied  out  for  a  walk.  My  -companion  knew 
the  town,  but  in  wandering  about  the  steep  angular  elevations,  I 
never  dared  to  look  up  without  catching  hold  of  a  balcony  or 
leaning  against  a  wall,  fearful  of  becoming  dizzy,  and  tumbling 
down  somewhere. 

Entering  the  gran  sociedad,  we  passed  through  a  long  suite  of 
bright  saloons — nearly  suffocated  by  cigar  smoke,  or  deafened  by 
the  incessant  clicking  of  billiard  balls — when  we  came  to  the  monte 
and  loto  rooms.  Here  were  grouped  around  a  dozen  different  tables 
hundreds  of  players,  from  the  plumed  hats  and  shining  lace  of  offi- 
cers, to  the  mean  dirty  serapas  of  soldiers  and  leperos ;  all,  howe- 


GAMING.  245 


ver,  earnestly  intent  marking  with  grains  of  corn  the  numbers  on 
the  cards,  as  they  were  yelled  forth  by  the  loto  man,  who  was  seated 
on  a  raised  platform  at  one  end  of  the  hall,  watching  the  little 
ivory  spheres  as  they  dropped  one  by  one  out  of  a  cylindrical  box 
revolving  before  him.  Further  on  were  the  monteros  at  work — 
with  heaps  of  gold  and  silver  piled  around — with  eager  faces,  com- 
pressed lips,  and  glittering  eyes  absorbed  in  the  intense  interest  of 
the  game — not  a  word  or  gesture  save  the  dull  monotonous  voice 
of  the  dealers,  like  to  the  tolling  of  a  bell — Juego  scnores  !  se  va  ! 
witli  eyes  that  never  winked  and  lids  rigid  as  sheet-iron.  The 
cards  were  pulled  slowly  and  carefully  one  from  the  other,  until 
the  game  was  decided,  when  took  place  the  rattling  chink  of  coins, 
with  maybe  the  deep  uttered  carajo!  of  some  unlucky  wight  who 
has  lost  a  last  stake  ;  yet  even  he  pursues  the  easy  dignity  of  his 
race,  rolls  and  lights  a  cigarrillo,  draws  his  cloak  around  him, 
raises  his  sombrero  gracefully,  and  with  a  polite  Hasta  manana 
senores  !  disappears  from  the  table. 

While  moving  about  the  apartments,  my  comrade  pointed 
out  two  young  men  in  the  Mexican  uniform  of  captains,  who 
were  deserters  from  the  American  army ;  one  had  been  a  lieuten- 
ant, named  Sullivan ;  both  bore  the  marks  of  dissipation  in  un- 
mistakable lines  around  their  faces. 

We  again  touched  our  hats,  an  invariable  sign  of  courtesy,  re- 
ligiously practised  by  all  civilized  beings  on  entering  or  leaving  a 
public  assemblage,  and  walked  into  the  street.  We  took  a  sort 
of  corkscrew  promenade  for  a  little  space,  when,  by  some  strange 
flight  of  footsteps,  we  found  ourselves  on  the  pavement  of  a  tri- 
angu-ar  platform.  Like  to  the  frame  of  a  convex  mirror,  en- 
casing a  sheet  of  blue  moonlit  sky — lay  before,  and  as  it  were, 
trembling  and  tottering  above  us— one  of  the  many  remarkable 


246  CHAPTER  XXXI. 


and  scenic  views  of  Guanajuato.  Full  in  front  against  the  vaulted 
sky  stood  a  double  towered  church,  with  dome,  spires  and  windows 
glistening  like  a  transparency,  then  circling  around  were  bright, 
gay-colored  dwellings,  with  lights  dancing  from  casement  to  case- 
ment, while  each  separate  cornice,  balcony  and  window,  threw  back 
to  the  silver  moon  a  thousand  sparkling  reflections — all  admira- 
bly contrasted  with  the  sombre  shadows  of  the  deep  gorge  below. 
The  scene  was  truly  beautiful,  and  when  within  a  few  feet  of  our 
position,  the  full  soft  tones  of  a  piano  came  thrilling  through  the 
still  night,  and  a  female  voice  rose  high  and  sweetly,  "ah  !"  cried 
my  friend,  "  there's  a  deal  to  live  for  yet ;"  and  we  retraced  our 
windings  to  the  inn. 

We  were  aroused  at 'the  first  cock-crow,  to  take  our  seats  in  the 
diligence ;  and  rattling  out  of  the  city  by  the  road  we  came, 
mounted  a  steep  eminence,  when,  gaining  a  flat  sandy  region,  we 
soon  lost  sight  of  Guanajuato.  During  the  forenoon  we  passed 
through  a  number  of  fine  populous  towns.  At  Irapuato,  M. 
Ribaud  and  his  friend  left  us.  In  Salamanca,  where  we  stopped 
to  bait  and  change  horses,  a  number  of  beggars  surrounded  the 
coach,  and  in  one  I  at  once  detected  the  pure  Milesian  brogue 
and  visage.  He  was  whining  and  limping  about,  with  a  tattered 
hat  and  stick,  imploring  alms  in  the  most  ludicrous  attempts  at 
the  Castilian  tongue.  "  Why,  Pat,  you're  a  deserter,"  said  I, 
from  the  top  of  the  vehicle.  "  Who  siz  that  ?"  quoth  he,  evi- 
dently startled.  Forgetting  his  infirmities,  clapping  on  his  som- 
brero, and  clenching  the  stick  in  readiness  for  a  fight,  or  flight, 
as  he  peered  among  the  crowd;  and  stepping  up  to  a  miserable 
leper,  whose  face  had  been  painfully  stereotyped  into  a  broad 
grin,  he  poked  him  sharply  in  the  ribs,  and  roared  out,  "  Ye  lie, 
ye  baste !  I  was  sick  in  the  hospital,  and  the  Gineral  tuk  me  aff 


WE  ARE  BESIEGED.  247 


m  his  own  carridge."  Here,  Pat,  I'm  your  man!  "Ah1  is  it 
there  ye  are,  Liftinint?  you 're  a  pacock  ov  a  boy !  will  ye  give 
us  a  rial  ?"  No  !  but  if  you  chance  to  be  caught  by  the  Yankees, 
you  '11  get  a  rial's  worth  of  "  hearty-chokes  and  caper-sauce,"  I 
replied,  going  through  a  little  pantomime  with  heels  and  neck,  for 
his  especial  benefit.  "  No,  be  jasus !  thim  Harney  blaggards  will 
niver  choke  me  while  the  Dons  is  so  ginerous."  This  was  the 
last  I  saw  or  heard  from  Pat. 

We  rolled  rapidly  along  all  day,  in  great  trepidation  concerning 
robbers,  since  the  same  diligence  had  been  plundered  for  the  eight 
successive  days  previous.  There  were  four  inside,  besides  my 
boy  and  myself.  Early  in  the  morning,  a  small,  fierce-looking 
Yucatanese  was  savagely  bent  upon  slaying  whoever  should  cross 
our  path,  and,  by  the  way,  this  Don  Pancho  was  a  perfect  speci- 
men of  an  ambulating  armory — having  no  less  than  two  brace  of 
holster  pistols,  a  revolver,  sword,  cuchillo,  and  his  coat  pockets 
filled  with  enough  ammunition  to  have  resisted  a  siege.  The  two 
last  and  critical  posts  were  at  hand,  and  together  we  mounted  the 
box,  with  weapons  in  readiness.  Whilst  changing  horses  for  tho 
last  time,  the  stout  cocker o — and  a  very  expert  whip  he  was — 
evinced  some  curiosity  to  know  whether  we  intended  shooting 
los  compadres — this  is  polite  slang  for  highwaymen — in  case  of 
attack.  Being  satisfied  on  that  point,  he  declared  he  would  not 
draw  a  rein  until  we  again  got  inside.  The  warlike  Yucatanese 
seconded  him,  protesting,  in  his  cowardice,  that  he  was  solely 
actuated  by  fears  of  compromising  the  good  driver ;  he  accord- 
ingly entered  the  vehicle,  hinting  that  his  plan  would  be,  on  the 
first  onslaught,  to  ensconce  himself  under  the  body  of  the  coach, 
and  rapidly  discharge  a  broadside  at  the  enemy — a  mode  of  tactics 
I  by  no  means  subscribed  to.  It  convinced  me,  however,  that 


248  CHAPTER  XXXI 


there  was  collusion  between  robbers  and  cocker  o,  to  make  the  most 
out  of  their  prey,  and  I  unequivocally  assured  the  stout  driver, 
that  if  he  did  not  lash  the  beasts  upon  the  first  signs  of  danger,  he 
should  go  halves  with  his  compadres  from  the  contents  of  my 
pistols ;  moreover,  I  still  persisted  in  retaining  a  position  on  top,  in 
which  I  was  ably  seconded  by  a  delicate  young  French  artiste, 
who  volunteered  to  do  his  possible,  if  he  could  be  supplied  with 
arms :  thereupon  we  made  a  forcible  seizure  from  the  stock  of  the 
brave  Don  Pancho.  There  were  but  two  other  passengers,  who, 
not  having  a  dollar  in  their  purses,  or  a  stealable  garment  on  their 
persons,  expressed  utter  indifference  as  to  the  course  of  events, 
lit  cigars,  and  crouched  beneath  the  seats. 

At  last  the  long  thong  of  hide  was  jerked  from  the  leaders' 
heads,  and  away  they  plunged  like  demons.  We  sped  on  for  a 
league  or  more,  over  a  smooth  broad  road,  lined  with  dense 
foliage  of  cactus  and  vines ;  keeping  a  wary  look-out,  and  occa- 
sionally cautioning  the  driver,  at  the  risk  of  his  brains,  to  give 
his  horses  the  rein,  at  the  first  appearance  of  our  expected 
visitors.  Indeed  I  was  on  the  point  of  congratulating  myself 
•Hpon  escaping  their  clutches  altogether,  when,  as  we  whirled 
quickly  towards  a  slight  declivity,  the  progress  of  the  vehicle  was 
necessarily  impeded  by  a  few  roods  of  rocky,  uneven  road ;  and 
at  the  same  moment — Voila !  said  my  companion,  Voila!  les 
voleurs  !  Like  magic  sprang  up  on  either  side,  behind  and  ahead, 
a  dozen  villanous-looking  scoundrels ;  whilst  to  the  right,  upon  a 
gentle  knoll,  were  as  many  more  mounted,  holding  the  animals  of 
their  brethren,  and  calmly  regarding  the  sport  before  them.  I 
instantly  levelled  a  pistol  at  a  gentleman  with  a  raised  carbine  in 
one  hand,  and  sombrero  coolly  doffed  in  the  other,  who  was  court 
teously  observing  to  the  cochero,  Como  estdmos,  Don  Pepe  ? — how 


LOS  COMPADRES.  349 

are  we  ? — he  was  directly  ahead  of  the  leaders,  and  as  my  finger 
sought  the  trigger,  Don  Pepe  knocked  the  barrel  up  with  his 
whip,  and  shouted, — "we  are  good  people ! "  Becoming  con- 
scious of  the  folly  of  contending  against  such  odds,  I  sank  back 
to  await  my  fate.  I  noticed  one  swarthy  old  villain  on  horse- 
back, who  appeared  chief  of  the  gang,  and  was  withal  rather 
uneasy,  urging  his  hijos — children — Presto  !  de  priesa  !  homlre  ! — 
hurry !  make  haste  ! — and  with  good  reason  too,  for  hardly  had 
the  villains  opened  the  coach-doors,  and  commenced  rifling  the 
gallant  Pancho,  whilst  two  more  had  clambered  up  the  wheels,  to 
have  an  overhaul  of  the  French  painter  and  myself,  when  a  voice 
cried  out — Los  drag  ones .'  los  drag  ones  .' — and  the  clash  of 
sabres  greeted  our  ears  :  Los  dragones  !  los  dragones  !  cried  we 
all.  Away  hopped  the  agile  compadres  from  the  horses'  heads, 
down  jumped  others  from  boot  and  wheels,  off  they  scampered 
right  and  left,  and  in  a  few  seconds  they  were  seen  galloping  off 
in  direction  of  the  adjacent  hills.  The  old  bandit  who  directed 
their  movements  was  delayed  a  moment  behind  the  bushes  in 
tightening  his  saddle  girth.  My  fingers  itched  to  have  a  crack  at 
him ;  but  although,  DC  los  encmigos  los  menos — of  enemies  the 
fewer  the  better — be  a  sage  maxim,  yet  upon  reflecting  that  we 
might  have  been  favored  by  the  whole  retreating  troop  with  a 
volley  from  their  carbines — and  that  a  coach  full  of  passengers  was 
not  a  small  target — I  very  sensibly  left  the  weapon  beneath  the 
cushions.  All  this  transpired  so  rapidly  that  when  the  green 
jackets  of  the  troopers  became  visible  a  long  way  up  the  road,  we 
were  entirely  relieved  of  our  besiegers.  My  companion  counted 
twenty-six,  but  they  got  absolutely  nothing  for  their  trouble ; 
much  to  my  regret,  however,  for  I  was  in  hopes  the  Yucatanese 
11* 


250  CHAPTER  XXXI. 


would  have  been  handsomely  plucked,  instead  of  only  having  his 
coat  well  nigh  rent  in  tatters  ! 

The  dragoons  were  an  escort  sent  to  guard  a  member  of 
the  Mexican  deputies,  who  was  expected  by  the  coach.  They 
answered  our  purpose  quite  as  well.  Nothing  further  occurred, 
except  arresting  a  couple  of  suspicious  individuals  on  the  road, 
and  attended  by  the  cavalry,  we  soon  arrived  at  the  Garita  of 
Queretaro.  Here  the  brave  Don  Pancho  had  recovered  his  wits, 
and  wished  to  play  collector  for  our  escort,  crying  out  Afloja  la, 
loha,  Senor^  — milk  the  purse  ; — but  dispensing  with  his  services, 
I  gave  the  sergeant  the  only  ounce  I  had ;  much  better  pleased  to 
give  it  voluntarily,  even  to  be  devoted  to  monte,  than  to  have  it 
squeezed  out  by  the  ladrons. 


CHAPTER    XXXII 

I  ARRIVED  in  Queretaro  on  the  20th  of  May — seven  and  a-half 
days  from  San  Bias-  It  is  an  antiquated  city,  built  when  rich 
mines  were  yielding  their  treasures  in  the  vicinity,  and  as  a  conse- 
quence, there  is  no  lack  of  handsome  private  edifices,  and  num- 
bers of  splendid  churches.  It  stands  nearly  seven  thousand  feet 
above  the  sea,  and  enjoys  a  most  delightful  temperature.  A  noble 
aqueduct  of  two  miles  in  length,  with  arches  ninety  feet  high — 
spanning  a  plain  of  meadow-land — joins  a  tunnel  from  the  opposite 
hills,  and  leads  an  abundance  of  excellent  water,  from  ten  miles 
beyond,  to  the  city.  It  is  a  solid  and  enduring  structure,  built  by 
the  munificence  of  an  old  Spaniard,  the  Marquis  de  Villadil, 
previous  to  the  Revolution.  Of  late  years  Queretaro  had  lost  a 
large  portion  of  its  population  ;  the  mines  have  become  nearly 
exhausted,  and  it  is  without  manufactures,  or  inland  trade.  After 
the  occupation  by  the  American  troops  of  the  city  of  Mexico,  it 
became  the  headquarters  of  the  Government,  and  seat  of  the 
General  Congress ;  and  again  all  the  world  had  flocked  thither, 
and  not  a  tenantless  house  or  spare  nook  was  to  be  found.  Crowds 
were  thronging  the  wide,  well-paved  streets,  and  mounted  troops 
and  foot-soldiers,  with  ear-aching  music  of  cornets,  trumpets  and 
drums,  were  moving  in  all  directions  about  the  city  as  we 
entered. 


252  CHAPTER  XXXII 


I  had  letters  to  an  Hanoverian  gentleman — Mr.  George  Best — . 
who  very  hospitably  lodged  me  at  his  dwelling.  From  him  I 
learned  that  the  treaty  had  already  passed  the  Chamber  of 
Deputies,  and  only  awaited  the  action  of  the  Senate  to  become  a 
law,  and  that  the  United  States  Commissioners  had  been  apprised 
of  it  by  the  Minister  of  Foreign  Relations,  sent  express,  the  day 
of  my  arrival.  I  determined  to  continue  my  journey,  and  made 
all  preparations  for  leaving  on  the  morrow. 

During  the  night  there  arose  a  terrible  crashing  thunder-storm, 
and  a  large  church  near  us  was  struck  by  the  rayo,  shattering  tho 
great  clock,  and  "  temple  and  tower  came  to  the  ground,"  with 
much  jingle  and  confusion.  I  slept  in  happy  ignorance  of  the 
whole  affair. 

I  was  unavoidably  detained  until  late  in  the  afternoon.  With 
post-horses,  and  a  single  guide,  we  toiled  over  an  elevated 
sierra  at  the  back  of  the  city,  and  taking  the  bridle  route,  rode 
like  Jehus  all  night ;  only  interrupted  by  changing  animals,  every 
seven  or  eight  leagues.  Once  the  post-boy's  nag  gave  up  the 
ghost,  which  was  the  cause  of  an  hour's  detention  to  procure 
another ;  and  again,  at  a  break-neck  pace  I  rode  full  tilt  into  a 
sleeping  drove  of  swine,  when  my  horse  floundered  on  his  face, 
and  I  was  shot  like  a  battering  ram  into  a  puddle  of  mire.  With 
these  trifling  mishaps,  we  gave  rein  and  spur,  trusting  to  the 
beasts'  guidance  in  the  dark  night — over  bad  roads,  hills,  and 
streams — until  day  dawned,  when  tarrying  for  a  bath  and  bowl  of 
coffee,  we  again  hurried  onward.  At  noon  we  struck  the  main 
route,  and  I  was  gratified  to  learn  the  Commissioners  had  not 
passed.  Without  pausing,  we  arrived  within  five  leagues  of 
Mexico,  where,  from  a  slight  elevation,  my  guide  exclaimed — 
Sefior !  mire  vd  la  escolta  /  Some  distance  below  us  wound  a 


CITY  OF  MEXICO.  253 

large  cavalcade,  with  four-in-hand  coaches,  and  trains,  attended 
by  squadrons  of  cavalry,  magnificently  mounted  on  dark  bay- 
horses,  with  sabres  and  housings  flashing  in  the  sun.  I  knew  it 
at  a  glance  to  be  the  American  escort.  Saluting  the  officer 
leading  the  advance,  and  stating  my  mission  from  the  Pacific,  I 
was  immediately  presented  to  the  Ministers,  and,  much  to  my 
own  relief,  delivered  the  despatches.  There  were  a  large  number 
of  officers  in  the  escort ;  some  old  friends,  too,  with  whom  I  had 
parted  in  as  many  different  portions  of  the  globe.  Retracing  my 
steps  in  company  to  the  village  I  had  just  previously  left,  the 
cavalcade  halted,  and  I  was  instructed  to  proceed,  and  report 
myself  to  the  General-in-Chief  in  Mexico. 

Once  more  I  galloped  away,  while  the  splendid  squadrons  of 
dragoons  moved  slowly  along  by  the  opposite  road.  In  two 
hours'  quick  riding,  we  turned  short  round  a  bluff  promontory, 
and  entered  the  great  valley  ;  then  for  the  first  time  I  saw — far, 
far  beyond — arise,  in  Alpine  grandeur,  the  snowy  peaks  of 
Popocatepetl  and  Iztaccehuatl,  and  nearer,  the  clustering  towers 
that  sprang  up  from  the  famed  city  of  the  Aztecs. 

Our  course  traversed  luxuriantly  fertile  plains,  over  one  of  the 
broad  causewayed  roads  radiating  from  the  city — beautifully  shaded 
by  noble  trees,  with  canals  of  running  water  on  either  side — until 
at  last  we  passed  the  unguarded  garitas,  and  entered  what  Cortez 
called  la  mas  hcrmosa  cosa  en  el  mundo — the  prettiest  thing  in 
the  world — Mexico  ! 

Trotting  through  a  long,  straight  street,  that  appeared  inter- 
minable, I  stopped  at  a  sign  of  Bains  Fran<;ais,  where,  alighting 
and  getting  quit  of  the  horses,  I  plunged  into  a  warm  bath :  then 
being  shampooed  with  spirits — much  to  the  horror  of  an  attendant, 
who  at  first  imagined  it  was  my  intention  to  apply  the  whole 


254  CHAPTER  XXXII. 


bottle  inwardly — and  feeling  much  refreshed,  I  ventured  out  on  a 
voyage  of  discovery.  The  streets  were  filled  with  soldiers,  and 
I  had  no  difficulty  in  finding  the  quarters  of  the  Commander-in- 
Chief,  not,  however,  until  becoming  sufficiently  wearied,  wander- 
ing about  the  city  in  quest  of  acquaintances,  of  whose  address  I 
had  been  advised.  But  they  were  all  abroad,  and  the  rain  coming 
on  with  darkness,  I  succeeded  in  making  my  way  to  the  residence 
of  General  Butler.  He  was  alone,  and  after  an  hour's  conversa- 
tion, he  politely  sent  an  orderly  with  me  to  hunt  up  my  friends. 
We  stopped  at  a  coach-stand,  but  the  instant  the  soldier  requested 
a  vehicle,  the  whole  worshipful  company  of  coachmen  seized  their 
reins  and  drove  off  like  magic.  The  reason  of  this  ballet  appeared 
to  be,  as  the  orderly  hinted,  that  they  were  "  done  "  so  frequently 
by  the  volunteers!  Nevertheless,  coming  suddenly  upon  one 
fellow,  who,  by  dint  of  a  dollar  beforehand,  opened  his  door  and 
agreed  to  enter  our  service  for  the  time  being,  we  drove  to  the 
clubs,  cafes,  sociedads,  and  other  places  of  public  resort,  until 
near  midnight,  without  finding  those  we  were  in  search  of,  when 
my  friend,  the  orderly,  suggested  a  visit  to  the  grand  ball  in  the 
Grand  Sociedad.  In  a  few  minutes  I  had  gained  admission,  and 
making  a  run  through  the  mazes  of  a  contra  danza,  came  plump 
upon  the  friends  I  sought.  Though  tired  as  possible  after  a 
fifty-six  leagues  ride,  I  could  not  resist  the  fascination  of  a  whirl, 
and  catching  a  trim  little  damsel  around  the  waist,  off  we  stamped 
and  pirouetted  through  the  large  saloon.  Accompanying  an 
an  old  friend  to  his  quarters,  I  soon  fell  into  heavy  sleep,  and 
never  awoke  until  the  sun  was  blazing  in  mid-day. 

My  visit  to  Mexico  lasted  five  days.  On  the  whole,  I  was  not 
highly  impressed  with  the  city.  Like  all  other  Spanish- American 
built  towns,  the  streets  are  laid  out  with  great  regularity  andj 


PALACE  AND  CATHEDRAL.  255 


excepting  near  the  suburbs,  are  well  paved ;  the  houses  are  of  two 
stories — solid  and  imposing — without  any  attempt  at  architectural 
beauty — the  shops  particularly  mean  and  insignificant  for  so  large 
a  town,  and  not  remarkable  for  either  novelty  or  cleanliness.  The 
city  does  not  cover  a  large  space  proportionate  to  its  inhabitants, 
but  it  is  seldom  you  meet  with  streets  so  densely  crowded.  In 
some  quarters,  towards  evening,  when  leperos,  vagabonds  and 
population  generally,  left  their  dens  for  the  open  air,  the  main 
avenues  were  so  closely  packed  as  to  make  it  a  matter  of  the  utmost 
difficulty  to  pass — far  more  people  than  are  seen  in  the  lazzaroni 
haunts  at  the  same  hour  in  Naples,  or  the  great  thoroughfares  of 
London. 

The  Cathedral  in  the  Plaza  is  a  fine  building,  standing  on  the 
site  of  the  ancient  Aztec  Teocallis,  but  not  comparable  to  the 
meanest  of  its  kind  in  Europe.  The  outside  was  very  much 
pock-marked  with  musket  balls.  I  was  more  pleased  with  the 
Palace  than  any  other  brick-and-mortar  structure  that  came  under 
my  observation.  It  occupies  the  eastern  face  of  the  Square — is  of 
two  stories,  and  painted  a  light-pink  tinge — with  immense  gateways 
opening  into  the  Plaza,  where  were  two  brass  guns,  gleaming 
like  gold.  Apart  from  its  historical  associations,  and  having  been 
the  scene  of  many  bloody  struggles  in  the  oft-repeated  internal 
revolutions  of  the  Republic,  it  has  little  to  recommend  it.  The 
council  and  state  chambers  face  the  Square ;  they  are  decorated 
with  handsome  furniture  and  crimson  hangings  to  correspond ; 
lighted  by  noble  windows,  from  floor  to  the  lofty  ceilings,  with 
heavy  stone  balconies  outside.  In  the  adjoining  building  is  the 
National  Museum,  where,  in  a  court-yard,  surrounded  by  quan- 
tities of  feathers,  belts,  cloaks,  and  other  Indian  ornaments,  was 
the  famous  sacrificial  stone,  that  once  graced  the  ancient  Temple 


256  CHAPTER  XXXII. 


of  the  Aztec  monarchs.  It  is  a  horizontal  convex  wheel  of  granite, 
curiously  carved  in  hieroglyphics  oft  the  perimeter,  and  having  a 
hole  and  gutter  on  top,  that  received  the  victim's  head  and  carried 
off  the  blood.  In  the  patio  of  the  same  edifice,  was  a  huge, 
ungainly  colossal  statue  in  bronze,  of  Philip  of  Spain — not 
worthy  a  second  glance. 

Undoubtedly  I  saw  Mexico  at  disadvantage ;  and  indeed  I 
took  more  pleasure  in  leaning  over  the  stone  balustrades  of 
the  Palace,  regarding  the  different  regiments  going  through 
their  evolutions — particularly  the  Seventh  Infantry — who  im- 
pressed me  so  deeply  with  their  soldierly  bearing,  and  national 
pride  for  the  hard  battles  they  had  fought  and  gallantly  won,  aa 
to  leave  no  room  for  admiration  of  the  curiosities  to  be  seen  of  a 
conquered  city.  Indeed  Mexico  was  almost  entirely  American- 
ized. The  great  fondas  and  sociedads  were  all  under  the  domi- 
nion of  Yankees — with  Yankee  ice,  Yankee  drinks,  signs, 
manners,  habits,  and  customs,  as  if  the  city  had  been  from  time 
immemorial  Yankeefied  all  over,  instead  of  being  only  occupied 
a  short  twelvemonth  by  the  troops.  I  usually  dined  in  one  of 
these  large  establishments,  and  excepting  the  hall  of  the  eating 
saloon — from  patios  to  attics — on  every  angle  of  the  broad  nights 
of  stairs,  crowded  one  beside  the  other,  were  gaming-tables  of 
every  kind  and  description.  Such  a  condensed  essence  of  worldly 
hell,  in  all  its  glaring,  disgusting  frightfuluess,  never  existed. 
And  there  never  were  lack  of  players  either — no !  not  one  but 
was  closely  surrounded  by  officers  and  soldiers — blacklegs  and 
villains  of  all  sorts — betting  uncommonly  high,  too — many  of  the 
banks  having  sixty  and  eighty  thousand  dollars  in  gold  alone  on 
the  tables — and  once  I  saw  a  common  soldier  stake  and  win  two 
hundred  ounces  at  a  single  bet.  Other  saloons  were  filled  with 


•CHAPULTEPEC.  257 


Mexican  girls,  with  music  and  dancing,  attended  by  every  species 
of  vice,  all  going  on  unceasingly,  day  and  night  together.  My 
friends  called  these  pandemoniums  the  hells  of  Montezuma. 
Whether  such  scenes  will  be  of  future  benefit  to  the  thousands  of 
young  men  whom  the  war  had  called  to  Mexico  will  be  a  matter 
for  future  speculation. 

Oue  afternoon,  accompanied  by  a  navy  friend,  we  rode  to 
Chapultepec.  I  had  already  visited  the  battle-grounds  of  the 
valley,  but  the  last  presented  claims  -of  greater  interest.  The 
Indian  definition  of  the  height  is  Grasshopper  Hill.  It  rises  very 
strangely  from  the  heart  of  the  great  plain,  within  half  a  league 
of  the  city — on  all  sides  steep  and  precipitous,  to  the  elevation  of 
about  two  hundred  feet — and  with  Molino  del  Rey,  forms  a  long 
parallelogram,  completely  walled  around.  The  former  position 
is  nearest  the  city,  the  King's  windmill  occupying  the  opposite 
space,  with  a  noble  grove  of  giant  cypresses  between  the  two 
points. 

The  road  runs  parallel  with  the  arches  of  the  aqueduct,  and 
terminates  at  the  base  of  Chapultepec.  A  gateway  opens  upon  a 
broad  causeway,  leading  with  but  one  angle  to  the  esplanade  of 
the  castle.  It  had  been  occupied  of  late  years  as  a  military 
college  ;  and,  though  strongly  manned  by  artillery  and  infantry, 
was  still  not  susceptible  of  using  cannon  to  advantage,  when  the 
assailing  parties  bad  approached  the  base  of  the  hill.  The 
walls  and  defences  were  of  no  great  strength,  and  not  capable  of 
resisting  round  shot. 

I  had  the  pleasure  of  being  made  known  to  the  Colonel  com- 
manding the  fortress,  who  went  with  me  over  the  works,  and 
courteously  explained  the  nature  of  the  different  battles  in  the 
neighborhood.  The  flat  roof  of  the  castle  commands  a  fine  and 


258  CHAPTER  XXXII. 


extensive  view  of  the  valley,  city,  and  sierras.  There  were  many 
marks  of  the  bloody  business  still  visible — shot  holes,  broken 
balconies,  fractured  butments,  shattered  casements,  and  a  pre- 
cipice near  the  western  angle,  from  which,  when  the  castle  had 
been  stormed  and  taken,  numbers  of  the  Mexican  garrison  had 
thrown  themselves,  and  were  crushed  to  death. 

The  grand  aqueduct  draws  its  aliment  at  the  foot  of  the  hill, 
from  a  large,  square  tank  of  spring  water — so  pure,  so  very  pure, 
that  in  looking  down  its  almost  unfathomable  depths,  one  is  apt 
to  mistake  the  calm,  clear  fluid  for  the  very  air  he  breathes 
It  was  near  this  spot  where  is  shown  a  noble  cypress  "  that 
circles  in  the  grain  five  hundred  rings  of  years,"  beneath  whose 
"giant  bole"  "  the  slight  she  slips  of  loyal  blood"  were  wont  to 
gambol  before  the  Aztec  Sybarite,  Montezuma  ;  where  "  Malin- 
che's  shade"  is  still  seen  to  flit  amid  the  grove,  seeking  her  gal- 
lant lover,  Cortez ;  and  where,  at  a  less  remote  period,  Yankee 
riflemen  strewed  the  ground  with  Mexican  corpses,  until  the 
spreading  trees  were  covered  to  the  knees  with  blood-stained 
clay. 

While  gazing  down  the  crystal  reservoir,  we  resolved,  in  emu- 
lation of  the  Indian  monarch,  to  test  its  virtues,  and,  in  a  moment, 
we  were  plunging  and  splashing  in  the  icy  water.  It  was,  apart 
from  the  associations  connected  with  brown  Indian  divinities,  the 
very  seventh  Heaven  of  a  bath  ;  but  whether  we  sullied  the  pellu- 
cid clearness  of  the  aqueduct's  tribute,  or  detracted  from  the 
cooling  fragrance  of  the  celestial  mint-juleps  drained  in  town,  we 
never  had  leisure  to  enquire  ;  and  indeed  without  caring  a  drop 
about  the  matter,  we  mounted  our  tall  steeds,  broke  branches 
from  the  legendary  tree,  and  passing  through  the  kingly  forest 


MOLING   DEL   KEY.  359 


and  meadow  beyond,  entered  the  deserted  walls  of  Molino  del 
Key. 

As  I  have  heretofore  observed,  this  building  fills  the  south  side 
of  the  square — a  sort  of  irregular  barrack  of  two  stories,  and 
some  eight  hundred  feet  in  length.  Directly  fronting  this  struc- 
ture, at  the  distance  of  a  few  hundred  yards,  standing  upon  a 
very  slight  swell  of  the  plain,  is  what  was  termed  the  Casa  mata — 
a  small  redoubt — ditched  and  flanked  by  trenches,  standing  angu- 
larly in  the  direction  of  the  windmill.  It  was  the  spot  where  our 
troops  suffered  severely,  where  many  undaunted  soldiers  fell, 
under  a  murderous  fire  of  artillery  and  musketry  ;  and  where,  after 
being  repulsed,  the  Mexicans  left  their  entrenchments,  and  put 
the  wounded  and  dying  to  death  in  cold  blood.  This  was  the 
reason  why  so  small  a  number  of  prisoners  were  taken  at  the 
storming  of  Chapultepec ! 

Leaving  Molino  del  Rey,  we  made  a  short  tour  of  the  environs, 
and  returned  again  by  the  main  Pasco  !  It  was  the  hour  when 
most  frequented.  There  were  but  few  ladies,  and  they  not  of  the 
handsomest.  Lots  of  queer  antique  coaches  went  rumbling  along, 
and  vastly  neat  cabs  and  stylish  barouches  whirling  past  then! — 
while  showy,  spirited  Mexican  barbs,  covered  with  gold  and  silver 
trappings  were  capering  and  prancing,  five  hundred  steps  to  the 
minute — then  an  American  General  and  staff  would  sweep  by, 
elegantly  mounted  on  high-mettled  chargers,  the  small  horses  of  the 
natives  appearing  like  pigmies  in  comparison — and  again  along 
the  grassy  roadside  paths  were  little  children  astride  large  sheep, 
completely  caparisoned  with  saddles,  housings,  and  bridles,  trot- 
ting away  quite  gaily  with  their  innocent  young  burthens.  We 
took  a  glance  at  all  this,  and  giving  spur,  rode  into  the  city. 


CHAPTER    XXXIII. 

THE  day  previous  to  my  departure  from  Mexico,  I  called  at  the 
Bureau  of  Postes  for  a  license,  and  made  a  report  of  what  I  con- 
sidered collusion  betwixt  the  Ladrons  and  Cochero,  near  Queretaro. 
The  office  was  conducted  by  Mexicans ;  and  the  Administrador, 
quite  a  gentleman, — who  excused  his  servants  at  some  length,  by 
stating  that  the  causes  which  prevented  them  from  disobeying  the 
orders  of  the  highwaymen  were  fears  of  subsequent  punishment, 
in  case  of  escape  at  the  time.  Moreover,  in  the  present  unset- 
tled state  of  the  country,  crime  had  never  been  so  prevalent,  in 
consequence  of  the  few  troops  at  the  disposal  of  the  authorities, 
for  the  purpose  of  keeping  the  roads  open,  from  the  hordes  of 
deserters  who  mostly  composed  these  lawless  bands  ;  and  even  in 
the  immediate  vicinity  of  Mexico  itself,  highway  robberies  and 
murder  were  of  daily  occurrence.  I  was  not  convinced,  although 
silenced,  by  the  plausible  courtesy  of  the  Administrador. 

Early  on  the  morning  of  the  26th  of  May,  I  shook  hands  with  my 
kind  army  friends,  newly  capped  pistols,  and  vaulted  into  the 
saddle.  Estdmos  listos — all  right — said  the  post  guide,  as  he 
succeeded  in  tightening  the  circingles,  by  kicking  the  beasts  under 
the  belly — Vamanos.  Pulperias  and  tiendas  were  being  opened  ; 
leperos  taking  their  morning's  dram  of  pulqae ;  closely  veiled 
faces  and  sombre  gowns  were  moving  to  mass ;  patrols  of  horse 


A  GOVERNMENT  EXTRAORDINARIO.  261 


and  foot,  returning  drowsily  to  'barracks ;  markets  thronged ; 
jackasses  trumpetting  their  morning's  note  of  thanksgiving,  and 
the  great  city  awaking  again  into  hum  and  bustle  ;  while,  as  the 
sun  was  climbing  over  the  white-robed  volcanoes  that  looked  down 
upon  the  beautiful  valley,  we  passed  the  long  lines  of  streets  and 
gaiiia,  gained  the  main  road,  when  our  pace  quickened,  and  on 
we  hurried  along  the  branching  shade  of  the  avenues.  Pell  mcll 
we  went  through  droves  of  mules,  at  times  driving  a  group  of 
perverse  donkeys  right  and  left  with  the  impetus  of  a  catapult — 
maybe,  one  or  more  over,  in  a  smoke  from  their  own  cargoes  of 
charcoal,  wood,  or  vegetables  ; — and  long  before  the  arrieros  could 
right  the  little  brutes  on  their  legs,  with  arrcs  and  blows — in 
readiness  to  treat  us  with  curses — we  had  swept  by  in  our  heed- 
less flight,  unmindful  of  all ;  my  guide ,  scrupulously  consoling 
hiinsolf  by  asserting  that  a  government  extraordinario  had  the 
the  privilege  to  knock  over  everybody  that  intercepted  the  path. 
In  an  hour  we  had  left  canals,  streams,  bridges,  caus3ways,  and 
fertile  fields  of  the  lovely  vega,  and  turning  to  the  right  the  bluff 
hill  closed  upon  the  scene — and  this  was  my  latest  glimpse  of 
Mexico. 

Soon  leaving  the  main  road,  we  branched  off  by  narrow 
bridle  paths,  and  cross  cuts  of  the  post  route :  four  relays,  and  as 
many  fresh  guides,  carried  me  to  a  place  called  Tepetitlan.  Here 
the  horse  purveyor  was  a  woman,  who  declared,  with  an  ireful 
voice  and  gesture,  as  I  drew  up  before  her  tenement,  "  that 
the  blessed  virgin  might  send  her  to  purgatory  if  she  had  a  horse 
with  a  hoof  to  stand  on — that  I  might  report  her  to  the  Alcalde 
or  the  devil,  or  both,  or  go  there  myself,  just  as  I  pleased." 
Que  mi  importa  1 — what  do  I  care  ?  And  the  director  had  no 
right  to  send  three  expresses  in  one  week,  when  she  had  nothing 


262  CHAPTER  XXXIII 


but  the  old  grey  and  the  mare  !  Ave  Maria !  pues ! — so  help 
yourself!  Cracking  my  whip  a  little  savagely,  I  crossed  the 
verdant  slope  of  a  hill,  and  dismounted  at  the  gate  of  a  walled 
garden,  having,  a  delapidated  and  venerable  habitation  within. 
I  was  decoyed  thither  by  a  brace  of  buxom  damsels — mother  and 
daughter — who,  perceiving  my  distress,  despatched  an  old  cripple 
in  search  of  beasts. 

The  little  town  had  much  to  recommend  it ;  the  houses  were 
very  quaint  and  antiquated,  strewn,  as  they  might  be,  upon  the 
sides  of  a  grassy  slope — with  a  crumbling  stone  bridge  and  rapid 
brawling  river  coursing  at  the  base.  Midway  between  was  a  large 
old  church,  ivy-grown  from  the  ruined  towers  and  belfry  to  the 
decayed  buttresses  and  lintels  of  the  doorway  ;  all  around  the  front 
were  broad  flights  of  stone  steps,  leading  from  the  declivities  of 
the  hill,  down  to  a  level  amphitheatre-like  space,  which  was  filled 
with  glorious  old  trees,  creeping  vines,  bright  green  grasses, 
ranges  of  marble  benches  beneath  the  shade,  and  in  the  midst,  a 
thread  of  a  rill,  plashing  about  the  ruins  of  what  once  had  been 
the  bowl  of  a  large  fountain. 

Besides  the  picturesque  charms  of  the  village,  I  was  recom- 
pensed for  two  hours  delay,  by  the  frolicsome  Sefioras,  at  whose 
estate  I  had  tarried.  They  very  obligingly  prepared  me  a  nice 
little  repast  of  frijoles — fried  eggs  and  tortillas — assisted  me  to 
drink  a  flask  of  bordeaux,  and  entertained  me  the  while  with  a 
narrative  of  how  the  horrible  Yankees  had  entered  their  great 
city — for  they  were  cockneys,  theso  ladies,  and  merely  rusticating 
at  their  retreat — and  their  dreadful  fears,  and  the  horror  they 
would  undergo  in  case  the  invasion  extended  to  Tepetiltan.  My 
guide,  who  had  been  industriously  eating  a  bowl  of  beans,  using 
an  original  spoon  like  to  a  diminutive  scoop — made  in  a  jiffy  from 


WE  DINE  WITH  LADIES.  263 


his  tortillas — and  swallowing  beans  and  spoon  at  every  mouthful, 
thereby  putting  himself  to  the  trouble  of  reconstructing  another 
at  each  succeeding  bite — he,  I  say,  informed  my  good  hostesses 
that  I  was  one  of  those  demonios  Yankees.  Ay  !  dios  !  said  the 
elder  ;  es  possible  que  vd  es  gringo  ? — can  it  be  true  that  you  are 
a  green-horu  ?  Si  amiga,  I  responded.  Then  their  curiosity 
was  interested  to  know  my  destination,  religious  impressions,  and 
so  forth — if  I  was  a  herege  ?  And  being  assured  that  I  was  a 
Christian  catholic,  could  make  the  cross,  and  name  more  saints 
than  they  could,  their  good  humor  returned,  and  we  made  the  old 
trees  merry  with  laughter,  chatting  away  the  hours,  seated  upon 
the  velvet  sward.  Still  there  appeared  no  indication  of  horses, 
and  when  beginning  to  despair,  an  individual  saluted  us,  and  I 
noticed  him  privately  telegraphing  my  guide  as  to  the  probable 
amount  the  gringo  could  be  cheated !  when  turning  to  me,  with  a 
resolute  air,  he  exclaimed,  Tengo  caballos  hasta  Tida  a  ocho  pesos 
cada  uno  !  This  was  a  triple  extortion,  but,  very  much  io  his 
astonishment,  I  immediately  closed  the  bargain:  upon  which,  he 
darted  a  disappointed  look  upon  his  coadjutor,  in  not  having  been 
signalized  to  charge  more,  and  then  drew  forth  his  beasts  from 
behind  the  garden  wall.  I  had  to  be  cheated,  and  there  was  no 
necessity  of  losing  one's  temper.  I  kissed  the  ladies — I  say  it 
with  modest  pride — and  pursued  my  route. 

I  came  on  smoothly  and  peaceably  the  remainder  of  the  day 
and  during  the  night,  until  towards  daybreak,  when,  to  keep  my 
eyes  open,  I  took  a  refreshing  dip  in  the  little  river  Tula.  On 
attempting  to  mount  again,  accidentally  placing  a  hand  on  the 
horse's  rump,  he  very  unceremoniously  struck  me  with  both  heels 
on  the  thigh.  I  was  hurled  some  yards,  and  fell  senseless.  My 
guide  dragged  me  again  to  the  stream,  and  I  suppose  his  novel 


264  .   CHAPTER    XXXIII. 

mode  of  treatment  had  the  happy  effect  of  restoring  me  to  anima- 
tion ;  for  I  partly  recovered  consciousness  with  my  head  beneath 
the  water,  in  what  I  thought  the  last  struggles  of  strangulation. 
It  was  meant,  however,  in  kindness ;  and  fortunately  having  a 
flask  of  strong  niuscal  in  tho  alforgas,  he  bathed  me,  inside  and 
out,  to  my  great  relief,  although  I  was  obliged  to  lay  on  a  serapa 
by  the  road  side,  in  sharp  pain,  for  two  hours.  Then  exchanging 
my  vicious  brute  with  the  guide,  he  assisted  me  into  the  saddle 
again,  and  we  walked  quietly  into  the  town  of  San  Juan  del  Rio — 
not,  however,  without  passing  a  body  of  sixteen  deserters  from 
our  own  army,  in  full  uniform — who  seemed  to  wish  to  be  more 
sociable  than  I  judged  civil — and  I  was  right  glad  to  hear  the  last 
of  their  reiterated  adios. 

At  San  Juan,  a  large  douceur  procured  magnificent  horses  for 
myself  and  a  small  urchin,  who  was  sent  as  post-boy;  after 
being  again  chafed  with  spirits,  I  mounted,  and  with  a  swollen, 
painful  leg,  left  the  town.  The  animal  I  bestrode  moved  with  a 
spirited  though  easy  gait,  and  nothing  transpired  for  some  miles. 
For  easier  travelling  we  had  taken  the  main  road,  which 
traversed  a  level,  well-cultivated  country,  hedged  on  either  side 
with  close  plantations  of  the  cactus  and  argave.  It  was  about 
nine  o'clock,  when  my  little  companion  called  attention  to  three 
horsemen,  who,  most  unaccountably,  had  started  up  within  an 
hundred  yards  of  our  rear :  Hay  mala  gente — they  are  bad  fellows — 
he  softly  exclaimed.  They  were  well  mounted,  and  like  most 
other  Mexicans  on  the  road,  had  the  lower  portions  of  the  face 
bound  around  with  colored  handkerchiefs,  and  notwithstanding 
the  extreme  mildness,  not  to  say  warmth  of  the  morning,  were 
closely  wrapped  in  serapas.  I  must  confess  seeing  naught 
remarkable  in  all  this ;  for  the  country  was  open ;  apparently 


WE  PRESENT  A  PASSPORT  265 

well  travelled ;  shortly  before,  we  had  passed  a  large  drove  of 
pack  mules,  and  a  hacienda  was  visible  in  the  distance.  Still  I 
did  not  neglect  the  hint  of  my  sharp  young  guide,  and  bade  him 
make  sail  ahead.  He  needed  no  second  bidding — gave  a  terrified 
look  back,  and  struck  spurs  to  his  beast.  Waiting  a  little  while, 
I,  too,  increased  my  speed,  but  had  not  made  a  dozen  bounds, 
when  a  loud  voice  called  me  to  halt!  What  for?  said  I,  without 
pausing.  Su  passaporta,  was  shouted.  Pulling  a  heavy  rifle- 
pistol  from  the  holster,  and  bringing  my  horse  to  a  stand,  I  replied, 
"  Here  's  my  passport !" 

They  instantly  checked  their  animals,  within  twenty  yards, 
threw  off  scrapas,  and  whilst  the  individual  nearest  me  was  rapidly 
unrolling  a  cloth  from  tho  lock  of  his  short  carbine,  believing 
hostilities  to  have  commenced,  I  took  deliberate  aim,  and  fired. 
He  was  sitting  diagonally  towards  me,  and  the  ball,  of  nearly  an 
ounce  in  weight,  struck  him  high  up  the  chest;  and  I  venture  to 
assert,  upon  the  well-known  virtues  of  Mons.  Devisme's  weapons, 
on  the  boulevarde  Poissonierre,  that  it  went  through  and  through 
him.  I  saw  his  carbine  fall  to  the  ground,  and  heard  him 
exclaim,  with  both  hands  pressing  the  breast,  Madre.  de  Dios!  I 
myself  was  of  the  opinion,  that  the  sooner  he  said  his  prayers  the 
better,  and  although  I  felt  a  twinge  of  regret  at  what  had  taken 
place,  it  was  speedily  dissipated ;  for  at  the  same  moment  there 
were  three  or  four  reports — two  of  them  from  persons  on  foot, 
inside  the  hedge ;  but  not  hearing  even  the  whistling  of  the 
bullets,  I  judged  their  aim  had  been  somewhat  inaccurate.  Giving 
my  horse  the  rein  and  spur,  I  went  flying  along  the  road.  One 
of  the  mounted  gentlemen  alone  followed  in  pursuit,  and  finding  I 
bad  the  heels  of  him,  I  held  my  nag  well  in,  until  I  had  disengaged 
the  remaining  weapon,  when,  halting  suddenly,  I  cried,  Venga  mi 
12 


266  CHAPTER  XXXII. 


compadre,  para  el  cambio — come  and  take  your  revenge.  The 
instant  of  perceiving  the  movement,  he  fired  a-  pistol  at  random, 
shouted  punetero  ! — wheeled  rapidly  into  the  thickets,  and  was  out 
of  sight,  He  was  at  too  great  a  distance  to  make  sure  of  him,  or 
I  certainly  should  have  saved  the  garotte  a  wrench.  The  old 
adage  preserved  him  :  El  diablo  siempre  cuida  par  los  suyos — the 
devil  regards  his  darlings.  Once  more  giving  my  willing  beast 
the  bit,  I  never  ceased  running  for  five  leagues ;  as  for  my  leg, 
I  had  forgotten  all  about  it.  Overtaking  the  little  guide,  we 
slackened  our  pace.  But  the  trouble  was  not  ended,  for  presently 
the  diligence  came  in  sight,  and  as  we  approached,  what  was  my 
surprise  and  dismay,  to  observe  an  individual  on  the  box  delib- 
erately level  a  blunderbuss  at  my  head,  and  never  remove  his  aim 
until  the  coach  was  lost  to  view !  JBueno !  thought  I ;  this  is 
diverting — first  to  shoot  a  thief,  and  then  be  mistaken  for  one ! 

Dismounting  at  a  small  pulperia,  near  an  extensive  hacienda, 
I  bathed  my  lame  limb  in  muscal,  and  reloaded  the  pistol ;  during 
which  last  operation,  the  patron  of  the  grog-shop,  who  looked 
something  villanous  in  the  visage,  interrogated  the  boy,  who 
afterwards  informed  me  that  the  wounded  rogue  on  the  black 
horse  was  one  Senor  Felipe,  an  intimate  friend  of  the  pulperia- 
man,  and  greatly  respected  by  the  community  at  large.  I  was 
not  again  molested,  and  experienced  no  further  interruption. 
Three  posts  carried  us  to  Queritaro  late  in  the  afternoon. 
Meeting  Mons.  Ribaud  in  the  streets,  I  related  the  adventure, 
and  he  strongly  advised  me  not  to  make  it  known,  as  there  was 
no  calculating  the  number  of  Don  Felipe's  associates,  or  the 
annoyance  one  might  suffer  from  the  sharp  thrust  of  a  knife, 
unexpectedly  dealt  by  noon  or  midnight.  Subsequently  I  was 
introduced  to  an  English  gentleman,  who  had  been  robbed  the 


SOMEBODY  KILLED  BY  MISTAKE.  267 


day  previous  in  the  diligence — who  stated,  that,  as  there  chanced 
to  be  a  German  mechanic  in  the  coach,  the  compadres  mistook 
him  for  a  Yankee,  and  very  promptly  blew  his  brains  out — which 
little  incident  made  me  feel  highly  gratified  that  a  like  interesting 
episode  had  not  been  enacted  with  mine  own. 

I  reported  my  arrival  to  the  American  Commissioners,  and  took 
quarters  with  the  officers  attached  to  the  escort.  They  entered 
the  city  on  the  25th,  as  the  vote  upon  the  Treaty  was  being  taken 
in  the  Mexican  Senate  :  very  possibly  it  may  have  hastened  it. 
The  division  stood  but  four  in  opposition — much  excitement  pre- 
vailed in  Queretaro,  as  the  measure  was  decidedly  unpopular 
among  all  classes  of  military  men  ;  there  being  no  less  than  twenty- 
seven  hundred  officers  of  the  army,  besides  immense  swarms  of 
empleados  and  every  species  of  Government  people,  awaiting  the 
action  of  Congress.  It  was  universally  conceded  by  liberal- 
minded  persons,  that  the  old  army  should  be  completely  dis- 
banded, and  regenerated  on  a  smaller  scale  ;  but  still  they  kept  up 
the  cry  of  War  !  War  !  without  the  slightest  means  in  men,  money, 
or  material,  to  carry  it  on  ;  merely  as  a  watchword  to  frown 
down  reform,  without  the  merest  hope  or  wish  to  do  any  more 
fighting  or  running — idle  words  and  wind,  and  thus  the  gritos  of 
Viva  la  guerra  !  Alajo  la  paz  !  were  yelled  in  every  street  and 
plaza. 

The  battalion  of  traitors,  under  the  banner  of  San  Patricio, 
who  amounted  to  some  hundreds,  had  very  judiciously  been  with- 
drawn from  the  city  before  the  coming  of  the  American  troops. 
Strong  guards  of  Mexican  cavalry  were  posted  throughout  the 
town  to  prevent  any  disturbance,  since  the  entrance  of  the  escort 
had  been  strenuously  opposed  by  the  Ministry,  but  with  the 
exception  of  a  few  stones  thrown  at  the  Commissioners'  empty 


268  CHAPTER  XXXIII. 


coaches,  on  driving  to  the  stables,  and  a  corporal's  guard  of  our 
Riflemen  charging  and  clearing  a  street — for  some  real  or  fancied 
insult — no  collision  took  place. 

Our  soldiers  were  quartered  in  a  large,  commodious  church  on 
the  skirts  of  the  city,  and  strong  guards  daily  detailed  for  duty  at 
the  residences  of  their  officers.  They  were  a  splendid  body  of 
cavalry,  and  deservedly  elicited  a  deal  of  admiration  from  natives 
and  foreigners.  We  were  lodged  in  two  spacious  houses  facing 
the  principal  street — the  Ministers  with  their  numerous  attaches 
in  one,  and  the  officers  adjoining.  Each  edifice  was  big  enough 
for  a  regiment.  Our  receiving  and  sleeping  saloon  was  all  in  one, 
and  a  fine  lofty  hall  it  was,  with  capital  balconies  in  front. 

We  passed  the  time  very  pleasantly.  There  were  nice  baths 
in  the  vicinity,  where  we  laved  before  breakfast.  We  devoted  the 
mornings  to  walking,  or  lounging  over  the  wide  balconies,  where, 
from  dawn  till  dark,  an  audience  of  near  a  thousand  leperos  and 
vagabonds,  were  thickly  seated  on  the  opposite  sides  of  the  street, 
regarding  with  marked  attention  our  minutest  proceedings. 
Within  a  few  minutes  walk  was  a  circular  promenade,  closely 
planted  with  undergrowth  and  towering  foliage,  where  in  the 
afternoons  all  the  world  assembled  to  behold  their  enemies,  Los 
gringos. 

One  morning  I  had  the  pleasure  of  accompanying  the  com- 
manding officer  of  the  escort  and  his  officers  on  an  official  visit  to 
the  military  Governor  of  the  town.  He  entered  the  saloon,  very 
like  Harlequin,  after  we  all  were  seated.  He  was  a  little  man  ; 
and  as  the  doorrc  swung  open,  in  he  bounded  with  open  arms,  and 
bowing  most  gracefully  to  his  visitors.  He  was  not  in  uniform  ; 
and  his  only  military  insignia  were  a  number  of  ribbons  and  deco- 
rations on  the  breast  of  his  coat.  He  had  received  a  ball  through  the 


OFFICIAL  VISITS.  269 

check  a.t  the  battle  of  Buena  Vista,  which  was  carefully  concealed 
beneath  a  luxuriant  growth  of  whiskers.  The  conversation  was 
not  very  general,  and  remaining  but  a  brief  sitting,  we  made  our 
salaams  ;  upon  which  I  could  not  resist  complimenting  the  Major 
at  his  excessive  grace  whilst  outbowing  the  General,  and  he 
assured  me  that  he  had  even  injured  the  King  of  Naples'  spine, 
who  attempted  to  surpass  him  in  the  business ! 

From  here  we  repaired,  to  attend  one  of  our  Commissioners  on 
another  official  visit,  to  the  Mexican  President  and  Ministers. 
The  reception-room  was  rather  a  mean  apartment,  hung  with 
crimson  curtains,  and  at  the  upper  end  was  a  chair  of  state,  with 
others  ranged  around.  The  President,  Pefia  y  Pena,  pleased  mo 
more  than  his  advisers,  having  a  mild,  benignant  expression,  and 
evidently  appeared  worn  down  with  care  and  anxiety.  Anaya  was 
a  tall,  bony  person,  with  high  cheek-bones — denoting  his  Indian 
origin — and  a  stolid  striped  face.  Rosa,  the  Secretary  of  War, 
was  short  in  stature,  of  swarthy  complexion,  with  full,  dark,  intel- 
ligent eyes.  But  of  all  the  public  characters,  who  held  office 
under  the  Mexican  government,  whom  I  had  the  opportunity  of 
seeing,  there  was  none  who  struck  me  so  forcibly  as  one  of  the 
deputies — Sefior  Cauto. 

At  the  conclusion  of  the  Presentation,  a  number  of  polite 
speeches  were  interchanged,  all  of  which  impressed  me  as  being 
very  gracefully  done,  though  destitute  of  a  particle  of  sincerity, 
as  these  empty-headed  formalities  usually  are.  But  indeed  I  felt 
for  the  pitiable  position  of  these  poor  Mexicans,  who  were  having 
bitter  pills  crammed  down  their  throats,  though  gilded  by  so 
many  sweet,  courteous  compliments ;  and  I  was  glad  when  the 
audience  terminated,  and  we  had  turned  our  backs  on  the 
miserable,  cowed-looking  sentinel  at  the  gate. 


270  CHAPTER  XXXIII. 


The  officers  of  the  escort  received  many  civilities  from  the 
Mexicans,  and  extended  others  in  return.  The  Governor  had 
obligingly  furnished  a  full  colonel,  who  was  an  excellent  cicerone 
about  the  city,  who  ordered  dinners,  assisted  in  eating  them,  and 
made  himself  generally  useful :  he  bore  a  surprising  resemblance 
to  the  portraits  of  Don  Quixote.  On  one  occasion  we  had  a  call 
from  a  colonel  of  cavalry :  a  large,  fine-looking  fellow,  flashing 
resplendent  in  gold,  from  the  glittering  plates  of  his  fur  shako, 
to  the  richly-chased  scabbard  of  his  sabre,  and  rowels  of  his 
bright  spurs  ; — he  must  have  been  worth  a  fortune  as  he  stood  ! 
It  was  his  wish  that  all  the  American  officers  would  honor  him  at 
a  breakfast  preparing  for  the  occasion.  The  invitation  was  cheer- 
fully accepted,  as  much,  possibly,  in  compliment  to  the  dashing 
colonel,  as  to  the  fact  that  our  own  board  was  not  so  well 
supplied  as  was  altogether  palatable  and  proper. 

It  was  quite  a  grand  affair — was  the  breakfast — laid  out  in  the 
billiard-saloon  of  a  fonda,  having  the  bar  and  cooking  convenient, 
as  it  were,  in  the  same  apartment ;  there  were  some  twenty 
Mexican  officers  at  table,  besides  ourselves ;  to  say  nothing  of  as 
many  more  casual  observers,  who  aided  vociferously  in  drinking 
all  the  toasts  in  succession,  and  afterwards  carefully  secreted  the 
glasses — which  were  limited — in  readiness  for  another  toast.  The 
first  course  consisted  simply  of  a  wine-glass  of  pure  cogniac — 
intended  for  an  appetizer  no  doubt — but  it  was  probably  subver- 
sive of  the  desired  effect,  for  I  noticed,  immediately  afterwards, 
a  number  with  watery  eyes,  and  great  difficulty  of  articulation. 
This  was  followed  by  a  pilaus  of  rice  and  chickens,  beafsteaks, 
soups,  frijoles,  fruit,  and  viands  in  the  most  indiscriminate  con- 
fusion. Bordeaux  and  sherry  circulated  freely,  and  we  had 
speeches,  toasts,  and  sentiments :  we  drank  the  memory  of  every 


THE  COLONEL'S  BREAKFAST.  271 

general,  living  or  dead,  of  both  armies,  beginning  with  Washington 
and  Hidalgo,  and  gave,  I  should  imagine,  upon  a  rough  calculation, 
as  many  as  eighty  or  ninety  cheers  for  Santa  Anna,  and  "  Skote  !  " 
I  had  the  happiness  of  translating — rather  freely  I  must  confess — 
these  different  effusions,  and  also  the  sense  of  a  long  harangue 
delivered  by  an  advocate,  who  came  late,  and  for  that  reason  got 
comfortably  boracho  at  once. 

Our  gallant  host,  in  a  few  disjointed  observations,  assured  us 
that  he  was  not  only  brave  himself,  and  loved  bravery  in  others, 
but  that  his  horse  was  brave,  and  had  been  wounded  in  divers 
battles.  Yo  soy  valiente!  said  the  fierce  colonel,  pounding  the 
orders  on  his  capacious  breast,  and  forthwith  proclaimed  to  the 
audience  his  intention  to  pay  for  everything  that  anybody  could 
possibly  eat  or  drink  for  a  fortnight  to  come,  and  seizing  me  by 
the  arms,  he  impressively  remarked  that  I  was  the  most  intimate 
friend  he  ever  had  except  his  wife,  and  requested  me  to  throw 
his  huge  shako  up  to  the  ceiling — solely  for  amistad,  and  good 
fellowship  of  the  thing — which  I  instantly  did,  and  made  the 
bearskin  and  golden  plates  ring  against  the  rafters.  Thereupon 
he  called  for  more  wine,  and  desired  all  who  loved  him  to  break  a 
few  glasses,  commencing  himself  with  a  couple  of  decanters.  At 
this  stage  of  the  action  the  landlord  interfered,  and  very  sensibly 
cut  off  the  supplies  of  liquor,  which  reduced  the  party,  who  were 
"  merry  in  the  halls,"  to  consistent  behavior ;  when,  embracing 
one  another  frequently,  ho.Yses  were  ordered  for  a  turn  in  the 
Alameda.  They  treated  us  with  the  greatest  kindness  and  hospi- 
tality, only  the  manner  of  doing  it  was  different  from  our  own. 
All  were  decorated,  and  one  handsome  young  officer  of  the  Lancers 
had  four  emblems  of  defeated  battles. 

The  Paseo  was  thronged  by  all  the  elite  of  Queretaro  :  richly- 


272  CHAPTER  XXXIII. 


caparisoned  barbs  were  jingling  musically  with  multitudes  of  little 
steel  or  silver  drops  attached  to  the  housings  ;  pacing,  and  fretting, 
and  foaming,  full  of  fire  and  spirit,  but  curbed  and  trained  to  short 
steps.  Then  came  the  well-appointed  carriages  of  the  President  or 
Governor,  drawn  by  sleek  fat  mules,  and  close  behind  cumbrous 
masses  of  timber — hewn  wheels  and  axles  lashed  together  with 
hides — all  hitched  by  ropes  to  half  a  dozen,  or  more,  dirty  beasts  ; 
the  vehicles  themselves  filled  with  rare  specimens  of  fat  old 
women,  decked  off  in  gay  haberdashery,  each  holding  an  armful 
of  children,  all  bent  upon  a  good  sight  of  the  North  Americans. 
And  there  were  youthful  faces  too — bright  glances  from  brighter 
eyes — emulating  those  aged  matrons  in  curiosity,  peering  from 
behind  waving  fans,  within  long  lines  of  carriages  drawn  up  at  the 
sides  of  the  promenade.  Nor  had  the  Gringos  aught  to  fear  from 
the  investigation,  for  there  were  handsome  young  dragoons  and 
riflemen,  attended  by  their  orderlies,  mounted  on  noble  chargers 
with  arched  necks  and  shining  coats,  moving  with  a  high,  proud 
bearing,  as  if  regarding  with  great  contempt  the  capering  graces 
of  their  little  brethren  beside  them. 

After  a  number  of  turns  around  the  park — the  last  at  a 
thundering  gallop,  with  a  stride  that  made  the  natives  shudder — 
we  dashed  out  of  the  gates.  On  our  way  through  the  city,  one  ot 
our  Mexican  friends  espied  me,  and  in  true  Californian  style, 
shook  his  bridle,  gave  spur,  and  came  leaping  like  a  flash  towards 
us.  I  was  not  a  novice  at  the  sport,  and  touching  one  of  the 
finest  horses  in  the  army  with  my  heel,  the  gallant  sorrel  sprang 
forward  to  greet  him.  We  met  in  full  career,  my  charger  stood 
like  the  great  pyramid,  but  the  shock  rolled  my  antagonist  into 
the  street.  I  should  in  courtesy  have  got  down  from  the  saddle 
to  his  assistance,  but  reflecting  that  without  a  ladder  T  never 


WE  RUN  A  JOUST.  273 

should  he  able  to  get  on  my  high  steed  again,  I  accordingly 
remained  quiet.  However,  my  friend  quickly  remounted,  and 
made  an  earnest  attempt  to  laugh ;  but  as  there  chanced  to  be 
hundreds  of  spectators,  I  hardly  thought  the  mirth  reached  his 
heart :  he  may  have  been  somewhat  allegro  from  the  good  cheer 
at  breakfast,  or  have  eaten  something  indigestible,  yet  under 
cither  dispensation,  it  will  caution  him  not  to  run  another 
joust  at  a  Kentucky-bred  charger,  or  he  may,  as  in  this 
instance,  get  tilted  from  the  saddle.  Being  a  sailor,  I  gained  a 
great  reputation  for  this  feat,  and  gave  an  entertainment  on 
the  strength  of  it. 

Some  days  elapsed  after  the  Treaty  had  finally  been  acted  upon 
in  the  Mexican  Senate,  before  the  ratifications  were  exchanged. 
Mexican  diplomacy  is  proverbial,  and  they  chose  the  most  tor- 
tuous track  to  gain  the  goal.  The  delay  was  in  some  degree 
attributable,  so  said  the  Government,  to  the  absence  of  the  official 
seal,  and  certain  time  required  to  make  proper  copies  and  trans- 
lations ;  but  it  was  with  equal  reason  surmised,  that  it  arose  from 
causes  relative  to  a  division  of  the  first  instalment  of  the  indem- 
nity, as  a  new  ministry  was  to  be  elected,  and  the  old  cared  not 
to  assume  the  odium  of  signing  the  Peace,  without  being  fortified 
with  the  assurances  of  their  successors  that  they  should  receive 
the  reward  of  their  services.  But  here  subterfuge  was  unavailing 
— the  armistice  expired  on  the  2d  of  June,  and  time  was  flying. 
At  length,  after  refusing  permission  for  the  American  cavalry 
and  artillery  to  take  up  their  line  of  march  by  land  to  the 
Northern  frontier,  on  the  night  of  the  30th  of  May,  the  final 
signatures  were  affixed  to  the  Treaty,  and  an  hour  later,  Herrera 

was  chosen  President  of  the  Republic. 
12* 


274  CHAPTER  XXXIII. 


Soon  after  midnight,  with  a  copy  of  this  document  in  my 
jacket,  and  a  promise,  from  the  Secretary  of  War,  of  an  escort 
for  ten  leagues,  I  once  more  began  my  journey  towards  the 
Pacific  Ocean. 


CHAPTER    XXXIV. 

IT  was  quite  dark  on  taking  my  place  in  the  diligence,  but 
getting  comfortably  seated,  I  heard  one  of  the  passengers  inquire 
if  there  was  to  be  an  escort ;  so  putting  my  head  out  of  the  win- 
dow, I  asked  my  man  Juan  if  he  had  any  idea  where  the  troops 
were  concealed  ?  No  Senor,  no  hay ! — not  a  soul  to  be  seen. 
Bueno !  I  consoled  myself  by  being  sure  of  meeting  them  at  the 
garita — and  then  we  came  to  the  gate,  but  never  a  sabre  visible ! 
Malditos  were  of  no  avail.  Sefior  Rosa,  in  a  multiplicity  of 
negodos,  had  forgotten  me !  Truly,  I  was  scared  out  of  sleep  the 
first  few  posts,  but  at  last  my  eyelids  gained  the  day — I  sailed 
away  in  the  land  of  dreams,  and  never  awoke  until  reaching 
Salamanca — much  refreshed  and  decidedly  happy  not  to  have 
been  rifled  by  ladrons. 

It  was  four  o'clock  and  raining  heavily  as  we  drove  into  the 
cellar,  as  it  were,  of  the  sky-built  city  of  Guanajuato.  The 
water  was  bounding  and  leaping  down  the  naked  sides  of  the  hills, 
converting  every  narrow  gully  into  a  boiling  torrent,  until  cas- 
cades and  rivulets  all  poured  into  the  deep  valley  beneath,  and 
went  roaring  and  foaming  away,  increasing  in  bulk  and  impetu- 
osity at  every  gorge,  to  feed  some  rapid  river  in  the  plains  beyond. 
I  was  intently  occupied  speculating  upcn  the  chances  whether 


276  CHAPTER  XXXIV. 


the  diligence  would  be  swept  along  with  other  floating  matter,  or 
ultimately  stranded  on  dry  land ;  for  not  long  before,  one  of  these 
same  vehicles  had  been  caught  in  a  freshet — carried  some  dis- 
tarfce,  drowning  three  insides.  But  fortunately,  we  steered  clear 
of  these  dangers  by  flood  and  coach — with  saturated  garments — 
and  were  soon  safely  housed  in  the  comfortable  fonda. 

Much  to  my  chagrin,  the  rain  prevented  a  visit  to  the  great 
mines  of  La  Luz.  They  are  said  to  be  the  largest  in  the  world, 
and  well  worthy  of  a  sight,  employing  no  less  than  fifteen  thou- 
sand workmen,  including  their  families.  The  owner  died  in 
Queretero  the  day  previous  to  my  departure,  bequeathing  a  for- 
tune of  twenty  millions  of  dollars  to  his  heirs. 

I  left  Guanajuato  before  daylight — the  heavens  were  dropping 
tears,  although  not  sufficiently  lacrymose  to  keep  the  gorges 
surcharged,  and  thus  we  again  escaped  coach-wreck.  We  reached 
Leon  to  a  late  breakfast — there  I  exchanged  the  youthful  valet 
Juan  for  my  horse  equipments,  and  having  but  a  single  com- 
panion in  the  person  of  an  Englishman  bound  to  Zacatecas,  we 
continued  the  route :  the  cocheros  swore  there  were  none  other 
than  virtuous  people  in  that  vicinity  and  we  had  no  fears  of  being 
molested :  the  road  became  rocky  and  uneven — occasionally  no 
beaten  track  at  all — and  had  not  the  coaoh  and  our  bones  been 
constructed  of  the  toughest  materials,  I  imagine  neither  could 
have  reached  Lagos — but  we  got  there  at  three  o'clock,  with  no 
more  serious  mishap  than  being  jolted  asleep  and  awake,  at  least 
four  or  five  times  in  as  many  minutes. 

Our  stopping  place  was  a  decent  little  fonda,  administered  by 
an  old  Spaniard.  While  standing  in  the  gateway  I  observed  two 
persons,  and,  from  something  indescribable  in  then-  appearance, 
immediately  accosted  them  in  Anglo-Saxon :  they  were  North 
Americans,  and  had  resided  many  years  in  Mexico ;  they  treated 


PRONUNCIAMENTOS.  277 


me  kindly,  and  extended  every  assistance  in  their  power.  I  visited 
one  and  saw  as  pretty  a  wife  and  family  as  any  batchelor  might 
envy.  The  town  itself  is  extremely  pretty — a  remarkably  hand- 
some church  faces  the  Plaza — the  houses  elegantly  adorned  exter- 
nally in  fanciful  frescoes,  with  designs  of  flowers,  wreaths,  gardens, 
and  mythological  figures,  while  a  branch  of  the  Rio  Grande  rushes 
swiftly  through  the  heart  of  the  town,  fringed  with  a  profusion  of 
verdant  foliage.  During  my  visit  the  river  coursed  in  two  sepa- 
rate channels,  divided  by  a  narrow  strip  of  pebbly  sand,  whereon 
were  hundreds  of  little  nude  boys  and  gii-ls,  and  women  nearly  so, 
bathing  and  washing  in  the  pools  along  the  shores. 

Returning  from  the  walk,  we  had  hardly  entered  the  inn,  which 
looked  into  the  Plaza,  when  some  fifty  ragamuffins,  armed  with 
many  varieties  of  weapons,  but  principally  broken  muskets  and 
naked  sabres,  passed  by ;  they  had  music,  too,  an  undeniable 
drum,  which  never  for  a  moment  ceased  being  thumped  and 
pounded,  during  all  the  proceedings  that  afterwards  transpired. 
There  was  to  be  a  Mexican  Pronunciamcnto  !  The  band  marched 
straight  to  the  Quartel  near  the  upper  end  of  the  square  by  the 
church,  where,  after  much  shouting,  expostulation,  bluster,  and 
reading  of  proclamations,  they  induced  about  five  and  twenty 
meagre  soldiers,  who  composed  the  garrison,  to  declare  in  favor 
of  the  rebellion  ;  then  a  number  of  bottles  of  strong  waters  circu- 
lated briskly,  the  mob  mingled  with  the  fraternised  soldiery,  pos- 
sessed themselves  of  their  muskets,  broke  up  into  groups,  and 
filled  the  air  with  cries  of  "  Ala  jo  los  Yankees  !  Viva  Paredes  I 
Viva  la  Gucrra!  Viva  El  Padre  Jarauta!" 

The  Pronunciamento  was  completed. 

My  friends  prepared  me  for  this  ebullition  by  stating  it  to  be 
part  of  a  combined  movement,  fomented  by  Paredes,  who  was 


278  CHAPTER  XXXIV. 


at  Aguas  Calientes,  seven  leagues  beyond,  awaiting  the  action  of 
Guadalajara  and  the  western  provinces. 

Jt  had  been  my  intention  to  take  the  route  to  Mazatlan  by  way 
of  Zacatecas  and  Durango,  but  I  was  earnestly  urged  not.  to  attempt 
it  in  the  present  unsettled  state  of  that  district,  and  as  the  advice 
was  based  on  sensible  grounds — not  without  a  deal  of  regret — I  at 
once  ordered  horses  for  Guadalajara.  Whilst  dinner  was  pre- 
paring I  took  a  stroll  with  the  innkeeper,  around  the  Plaza  to  get  a 
glimpse,  if  possible,  of  the  sanctified  assassin  Padre  Jarauta.  I 
had  heard  much  of  the  villain's  atrocities,  both  from  the  papers 
and  individuals.  -  The  young  adjutant  whom  I  met  in  Guana- 
juato related  of  him,  that  he  boasted  of  having  killed  fifty-three 
Americans  with  his  own  cuchillo,  and  though  styling  himself  priest 
was  nothing  but  a  student  who  had  taken  to  arms  "  con  amore." 
To  say  the  least  of  this  good  padre,  he  possessed  unparalleled 
courage  and  audacity,  had  done  immense  mischief  to  small  corps 
and  trains  of  our  army,  and  he  was,  in  fact,  the  boldest,  bloodiest 
Guerilla  chief  in  all  Mexico. 

I  was  gratified  for  my  exertions,  and  passed  twice  beside  him  ; 
he  was  striking  in  expression,  perhaps  thirty  years  old,  with  fine 
fierce  dark  eyes,  and  little  beard :  he  was  about  the  middle  height, 
dressed  in  a  round  jacket  and  cloak,  with  a  short  straight  sword 
on  his  hip.  He  appeared  absorbed  with  great  events,  regarding 
the  sky  and  other  celestial  bodies,  never  deigning  to  honor  me 
with  a  glance. 

One  of  my  countrymen  dined  with  me,  and  we  had  an  excel- 
lent repast,  but  it  was  most  unseasonably  interrupted  by  the 
entrance  of  the  host,  who  after  a  short  consultation  with  my 
friend,  informed  me  that  the  good  Padre  Jarauta  had  learned  the 
arrival  of  an  American  officer,  and  had  expressed  a  determination 


PADRE  JARAUTA.  279 


to  make  an  ejemplo  of  him  in  the  squat e  !  I  reposed  full  faith  in 
his  pious  regard,  and  did  not  doubt  for  an  instant  that  he  would 
be  at  all  loth  in  executing  his  virtuous  designs — and  as  for  my 
passport  and  papers,  they  might  possibly  have  given  additional  zest 
to  his  holy  orders,  and  been  considered  just  long  enough  to  cock  half 
a  dozen  carbines,  and—fuego !  However,  there  was  no  tune  to 
deliberate,  and  but  one  course  to  avoid  the  dilemma — Gracios  a 
Dios  —  the  horses  were  fortunately  in  the  corral  of  the  meson, 
and  in  a  very  few  seconds  the  guide  had  clasped  on  my  spurs, 
and  I  jumped  into  the  saddle.  With  warmest  thanks  to  my 
friends,  and  a  trifle,  more  solid,  to  the  true  Biscayno  for  his  good 
oflices,  in  the  darkness,  the  animals  were  led  down  a  stone 
flight  of  steps,  through  some  outbuildings,  where,  gaining  a  back 
street,  we  made  the  dust  whirl  in  clouds  around  us,  as  we  gave 
lash  and  steel  to  the  beasts. 

At  early  dawn  we  halted  at  a  place  called  Encarnacion  for 
change  of  horses,  and  losing  no  time,  mounted  and  struck  a  by- 
path to  shorten  the  distance.  At  sunrise  we  observed  a  group 
of  travellers  ahead,  and  pushed  on  to  overtake  them.  Perceiving, 
however,  a  wish  to  avoid  us,  and  warlike  demonstrations  begun 
by  twoindividuals  unslinging  carbines  in  the  rear,  I  sent  the  guide 
in  advance  to  relieve  their  anxiety ;  they  proved  to  be  the  family 
of  the  commandant  of  Lagos,  flying  bag  and  baggage  to  a  more 
safe  retreat ;  there  were  two  ladies  in  the  party,  and  we  remained 
in  company  for  some  miles :  they  had  lost  a  valise  in  their  flight, 
and,  on  parting,  I  was  under  the  belief  that  they  regarded  me  as 
the  lucky  finder  thereof. 

Further  on  we  passed  a  remarkable  elevation  called  La  Mesa, 
a  table  hill  of  a  perfect  oval,  rising  like  the  palisades  of 
Hudson  River ;  some  three  hundred  feet,  with  a  dead  flat  surface, 


280  CHAPTER  XXXIV. 


and  but  one  gateway -like  aperture  leading  to  the  summit — making 
altogether  a  most  regular  and  inaccessible  natural  fortress.  My 
guide  assured  me,  there  was  a  deep,  clear  lake  on  top,  and  many 
acres  of  good  soil. 

The  sun  was  getting  high  up,  when  we  drew  bridles  at  a  fork 
of  the  road,  beneath  a  wide-spreading  tree,  and  in  fact  the  only 
one  to  be  seen.  Here,  squatted  on  a  stone,  was  a  jolly  old  gentle- 
man, with  a  great  earthen  jar  of  pulque,  and  platter  filled  with 
the  same  sour  fermentation,  on  the  grass  before  him  ;  the  guide, 
as  in  honor  bound,  swallowed  a  centavo's  worth,  but  I  was  con- 
tented with  a  little  diluted  muscal,  which  is  far  more  'palatable, 
and  has  much  the  taste  of  Scotch  whiskey.  Both  preparations 
are  made  from  the  same  species  of  plant — the  "American  Argave 
— and  to  see  the  immense  extent  of  land  under  cultivation — the 
great  droves  of  beasts  carrying  the  juice  to  market,  one  might 
readily  believe  enough  was  made  to  keep  the  whole  Mexican 
nation  in  one  continued  state  of  intoxication.  The  keeper  of  the 
small  ambulating  pulperia  informed  us  that  a  pronunciamento 
had  taken  place  that  very  morning  at  San  Juan  de  Lagos,  and 
that  large  bands  of  armed  men  had  entered  the  town  at  daylight. 
Padre  Jarauta  had  destroyed  my  appetite  the  night  previous,  and 
this  news  equally  perplexed  me — for  there  was  but  one  route 
directly  through  the  town,  and  I  had  no  inclination  to.  run  a 
muck ;  so  following  the  advice  of  my  guide  Jose  Maria,  to  lay 
by  a  few  hours,  and  learn  the  state  of  affairs  from  some  one  pass- 
ing along  the  road,  we  descended  a  small  ravine  entirely  sheltered 
from  view,  where  the  horses  were  unsaddled,  and  a  temporary  screen 
made  with  the  serapas,  to  shield  us  from  the  noontide  sun.  Here  I 
stretched  myself  upon  the  grass,  and  before  many  minutes  elapsed 
had  cut  buttons  and  straps  from  my  jacket :  the  uniform  1  wore 


SAN  JUAN   DE  LAGOS.  281 


was  generally  taken  for  that  of  a  Mexican  cavalry  officer,  but  in 
this  instance  I  was  resolved  to  make  assurance  doubly  sure,  and 
not  be  mistaken  for  a  gringo  :  and  accordingly  hurled  buttons  and 
lace  far  down  the  gully. 

Two  hours  past  mcredian  I  was  awakened  by  Joso,  who  reported 
liaviug  heard  firing  in  the  town,  and  that  he  had  learned  from  a 
paisano,  in  hot  haste  from  Lagos,  that  Seiior  Jarauta,  after 
making  a  forcible  razzia  of  all  animals  to  be  found,  marched  with 
over  a  hundred  compatriots  for  Aguas  Calientes :  Avhcther  he  put 
himself  to  any  inconvenience" or  not  in  regard  to  my  movements, 
I  did  not  hear  or  care,  so  true  is  the  adage,  "  sacabo  il  pericolo, 
adio  il  santo."  All  I  ever  learned  of  his  after  history,  was  that 
a  month  later  he  was  made  prisoner  by  the  troops  of  General 
Bustamentc,  and  immediately  shot.  Thus  being  relieved  of  the 
good  father,  I  gathered  courage  to  proceed,  and  mounting,  we 
gave  spur  for  San  Juan  cle  Lagos  ;  we  had  but  a  league's  travel, 
and  I  was  soon  put  out  of  suspense,  for  on  descending  a  steep 
hill,  which  led  down  to  the  town,  we  encountered  a  number  of 
arrieros,  who  gave  the  pleasing  intelligence,  that  the  place  had  de- 
clared in  favor  of  the  existing  government,  and  the  towns  people  had 
driven  the  agents  of  Paredes  outside,  and  thus  we  rode  to  a  meson 
without  molestation.  I  noticed  about  eighty  citizen  soldiers  drawn 
up  in  front  of  the  church,  listening  to  the  harangue  of  a  clerical 
gentleman,  attired  in  a  stove-pipe  hat  and  flowing  gown. 

There  was  not  a  remuda — change — to  be  had  for  love  or 
money  in  San  Juan  de  Lagos ;  all  the  horses  having  been  secured 
and  carried  into  the  country  during  the  pronunciamentos ;  after 
a  bowl  of  frijolcs  and  tortillas,  we  were  obliged  to  remount  our 
wearied  beasts,  and  toil  slowly  onward. 

The  same  evening  we  reached  the  town  of  San  Miguel,  when 


282  CHAPTER  XXXIV. 

another  of  these  infernal  pronunciamentos  was  brewing,  but  a 
polite  old  gentleman  procured  me  a  relay,  and  away  we  rattled  over 
a  dry  undulating  charnpaigne  country  to  Mirondillo,  where  finding 
another  remuda,  and  leaving  Cerro  Gordo  on  the  left,  the  full  moon 
lighted  us  safely  into  Tcpctitlan.  Here  I  proposed  tarrying,  but 
the  meson  was  so  -filthy  and  detestable  —  so  full  of  fleas  and  un- 
comfortable, that  wearied  as  I  was,  after  vainly  trying  to  sleep 
on  a  table,  I  ordered  fresh  horses,  and  departed  at  midnight.  In 
two  hours,  becoming  too  sleepy  to  keep  the  saddle,  notwithstand- 
ing Jose  made  his  macarte  fast  to  my  steed's  neck  and  towed  us 
some  distance,  we  fell  in  with  an  encampment  of  arrieros  and 
their  mules,  who,  after  a  strict  reconnoissance,  very  kindly  allowed 
us  to  bivouac  near  their  fires. 

In  no  other  part  of  the  world  do  I  believe  there  can  be  found 
such  a  worthy,  brave,  hardworking,  and  industrious  class  of  per- 
sons as  the  arrieros  of  Mexico  ;  they  are  proverbial  for  honesty, 
and  there  is  scarcely  an  instance  known  where  they  have  proved 
unfaithful ;  trusted  for  weeks  and  months  with  the  most  valuable 
cargoes,  from  silks  to  gold,  in  a  country,  too,  where  crime  in  its 
worst  forms  is  rife,  and  where  detection  is  vain,  they  still  appear 
a  distinct  race  from  their  thievish  countrymen,  and  preserve  an 
integrity  seldom  met  with. 

At  the  first  blush  of  morn,  the  encampment  was  astir.  Calling 
and  whistling  to  the  mules,  the  sagacious  brutes  came  regularly 
to  the  spot  where  their  pack  was  deposited,  were  in  turn  loaded, 
and  sent  on  after  the  bell  mules  in  advance.  Meanwhile,  the 
drivers  prepared  a  hasty  breakfast,  which  was  hastily  eaten — the 
cigarillo  lighted,  and  off  they  trotted  after  their  beasts.  A  good 
day's  journey  is  six  leagues — resting  during  the  heat  of  the  day. 

I  stood  gazing  at  them  until  they  disappeared  in  the  dim  light 


PUENTE  CALDERON.  283 

of  morning ;  then,  by  tlie  embers  of  their  fires,  my  guide  boiled 
a  small  measure  of  coffee  in  a  broken  earthen  pot  found  near  by, 
when  we  put  foot  in  stirrup,  and  came  on  in  the  opposite  direc- 
tion. We  rode  rapidly  to  Puentc  Calderon,  a  small  village  at 
the  foot  of  an  abrupt  elevation,  with  a  noisy  torrent  dashing  its 
turbid  waters  against  the  stone  arches  of  the  bridge.  It  was  the 
spot  where  was  fought  one  of  the  bloodiest  revolutionary  battles 
between  the  republican  and  royalist  forces.  Dismounting  at  a 
rude  dwelling  fronting  the  shelving,  rocky  street,  with  Meson  de 
la  Pat ria  chalked  over  the  entrance,  we  entered  the  patio,  where 
was  standing  a  huge,  ungainly  vehicle— a  kind  of  family  van, 
drawn  by  nine  stout  mules — while  beneath  the  portals  of  the  inn- 
yard  were  half  a  dozen  juveniles  and  a  couple  of  staid,  portly 
parents.  Para  scrvir  ustcdes,  quoth  I,  Pase  vd  lien,  mur- 
mured the  party ;  Vamonos  almorzar !  and  accordingly  I  sat 
down  on  a  saddle  and  partook  of  their  hospitality.  The  family 
were  destined  to  Guadalajara  from  a  two  months  sojourn  on  their 
plantations,  and  were  as  ignorant  of  what  was  going  on  in  the 
world  as  a  fish  under  water.  Indeed,  in  this  particular,  they  were 
not  singular  examples ;  and  the  ignorance  of  the  peasantry  was 
almost  incredible.  I  frequently  met  individuals  in  the  Western 
provinces,  who,  though  they  had  heard  of  the  war,  had  not  the 
slightest  conception  with  whom — unos  gringos — some  foreigners, 
they  would  say — and  as  for  the  simple  information  regarding  short 
distances  from  place  to  place,  or  the  nature  of  the  road,  and  such 
trifling  matters,  it  defied  the  most  acute  cross-examinations. 

The  conversation  at  our  breakfast  ran  upon  the  war,  and  revo- 
lutions of  the  country.  "  And  where  are  you  from,  Sefior  ?" 
asked  the  old  lady,  as  she  chucked  a  hot  tortilla  towards  me. 
"  From  Mexico,  and  the  peace  is  declared !  "  Valgame  Dios ! — in 


284  CHAPTER    XXXIV. 


it  possible  !  exclaimed  they  all  in -a  breath  ;  "  and  will  those  horrible 
Yankees  ever  leave  the  city?"  Si!  si!  "But,  Sefior,  we  are 
wondering  who  you  are  ?"  Oh  !  I  'm  one  of  those  demonios  Yan- 
kees! Jesu  Maria!  dispense  mi  amigo !  screamed  the  Senora. 
The  old  gentleman  offered  his  apologies,  and  we  all  laughed 
heartily ;  but  still  I  remarked  the  younger  shoots  of  the  family 
observing  me  with  furtive  glances,  as  if  I  might  have  been  a  wild 
animal  lately  uncaged.  My  hunger  was  soon  appeased,  and  fresh 
horses  carried  us  to  Puente  Grande.  The  river  was  much  swollen 
and  flowing  over  its  rocky  bed  with  turgid  violence.  Before  cross- 
ing, I  turned  up  the  stream,  selected  a  clean  grassy  bank,  threw 
off  my  clothes,  and  plunged  in.  It  afforded  me  great  relief,  in  its 
icy  coldness,  for  my  leg  was  still  painful  with  the  hoof- prints  of 
the  vicious  brute  near  San  Juan  del  Rio.  My  ablutions  seemed 
to  create  much  surprise  and  amusement  to  a  group  of  brown 
damsels  washing  on  a  green  islet  near  by,  who,  on  swimming 
towards  them,  changed  their  tune  and  retreated  to  the  willowy 
thickets.  My  guide,  Jose  Maria,  was  vastly  horrified  and  shocked, 
not  so  much  at  the  conduct  of  the  girls,  as  my  own  regardlessness 
of  life  and  health,  in  having  the  temerity  to  lave  in  cold  water. 
Se  hace  dano — be  the  death  of  you — he  continually  repeated,  and 
related  many  direful  incidents  where  persons  had  contracted  dis- 
eases thereby,  and  had  lived  but  a  very  few  minutes  after  coming 
out ;  perceiving  that  I  was  not  affected  to  that  extent,  he  at  last 
discovered  me  to  be  a  gringo,  who  could  endure  anything.  We 
again  mounted — changed  horses  in  the  town — were  exempted 
from  paying  the  rial  toll  at  the  bridge,  on  account  of  being  an 
extraordinario  del  Gobierno — ate  a  melon — purchased  a  new  whip 
with  a  lash  like  the  thongs  of  a  knout,  and  thence  proceeded 
towards  Guadalajara.  Half  way,  we  overtook  two  ladies  with 


THUNDER-STORM.  285 


servants,  mounted  on  fast  mules,  and  we  accompanied  them  to 
the  city.  As  we  rode  through  the  suburban  town  of  San  Juan — 
where  is  the  residence  of  the  Bishop  of  Jalisco,  with  many  fine 
houses  and  beautiful  gardens,  the  rain  began  to  fall,  and  by  the 
time  we  reached  the  long  Pasco,  it  was  descending  in  cata- 
racts, with  thunder  and  lightning  resounding  and  flashing  around 
us.  J  halted  for  shelter  under  the  close-leafed  protection  of  the 
trees  that  fringed  the  promenade  ;  but  no  arguments  could  in- 
duce my  lady  companions  to  do  the  same,  and  they  were  drenched 
with  a  torrent  of  waters,  while  standing  m  the  middle  of  the 
road,  fearing  a  shock  of  the  rayo,  beneath  the  foliage. 

I  was  the  first  to  bring  confirmed  intelligence  of  the  peace,  to 
Guadalajara.  The  news  of  its  passage  through  the  Mexican 
Congress  had  already  been  received,  and  had  caused  some  demon- 
strations in  one  of  the  regiments,  instigated  by  agents  of  Paredes  : 
more  was  anticipated  upon  the  confirmation  of  the  treaty,  but 
nothing  of  importance  occurred.  There  existed,,  as  in  Queretaro, 
a  violent  party  among  the  military,  opposed  to  the  new  govern- 
ment under  Herrera.  All  moderate  and  reflecting  ciudadanos 
were  for  peace  :  it  was  the  policy  of  the  State  of  Jalisco,  though 
as  patriotic  as  any.  It  was  the  wealthiest  district  of  the  whole 
Republic,  and  had  much  to  lose  and  naught  to  gain,  should  the 
waves  of  invasion  have  rolled  towards  the  Pacific.  They  had 
drawn  a  sage  moral  from  the  misfortunes  of  the  neighboring 
provinces  :  they  had  beheld  the  largest  and  best  appointed  army 
Mexico  ever  put  in  the  field,  vanquished  at  Buena  Vista ;  they 
had  seen  a  compact  body  of  six  thousand  troops  cleave  their  way 
through  six  times  that  force  into  the  garitas  of  the  capital,  and 
they  felt  convinced  that  even  half  that  veteran  band  of  North 


2&6  CHAPTER  XXXIV. 


Americans  could  sweep  over  the  grand  plateau,  and  as  easily 
conquer  the  fair  city  of  Guadalajara. 

At  the  time  of  my  arrival,  the  state  government  felt  assured  of 
support,  and  besides  having  means  at  hand  to  prevent  any  insur- 
rection, had  dispatched  a  battalion  of  three  hundred  soldiers,  with 
two  pieces  of  artillery,  to  oppose  Paredes.  Nevertheless,  pre- 
parations had  been  made  to  guard  against  any  attempt  nearer 
home,  and  on  passing  through  a  private  apartment  of  an  official 
residence,  I  observed  a  number  of  persons  busily  employed 
making  ball-cartridges,  but,  as  usual,  they  were  too  greatly  dis- 
proportioned  with  powder,  and  as  a  consequence  the  Mexicans 
generally  overshoot  the  mark. 


CHAPTER    XXXV. 

I  WAS  duly  installed  in  my  former  lodgings  at  the  French 
fonda,  and  in  the  afternoon,  being  a  holiday,  went  to  the  Plaza  de 
Toros.  The  arena  was  spacious,  but  without  the  wooden  screens 
within  the  circle  to  protect  the  tauridors  and  bandilleros,  as  is  seen 
in  the  bull-rings  of  old  Spain.  The  amphitheatre  was  well 
arranged,  and  capable  of  containing  many  thousands,  with  a 
separate  enclosure,  at  a  more  elevated  stand,  filled  with  troops, 
with  fixed  bayonets,  and  commanding  a  good  sweep  around  the 
audience.  The  exhibition  was  more  of  a  cow-combat  than  an 
old-fashioned  bull-fight ;  they  are  miserable,  disgusting  scenes  at 
best,  and  the  stranger  ever  takes  sides  with  the  tortured  beasts 
against  their  brutal  tormentors.  Here  the  horns  were  sawed 
partly  off,  or  blunted  with  leaden  beads ;  in  other  respects  the 
affair  was  conducted  as  elsewhere.  As  the  military  governor, 
Yaiies,  appeared  beneath  his  crimson  canopy,  the  music  ceased ; 
the  gayly-dressed  bands  of  picadores,  bandilleros,  tauridors,  on 
foot  and  horse,  headed  by  the  Matador,  with  long  toledo  in  his 
hands,  bowed  reverently  before  the  General  and  Judges ;  then 
crossing  themselves,  a  pause  ensued ;  the  dulce  men,  and  cigar 
venders,  old  beldames  with  chairs,  and  boys  with  sombra — shade 
tickets — held  their  peace.  The  arena  was  cleared  of  all  but  the 
mounted  prickers  and  scarfincn ;  a  bugle  sounded,  low,  heavy 


288  CHAPTER  XXXV 


panels  within  the  barricade  of  the  circus  swung  back,  arid  in 
rushed  the  bulls.  It  is  always  to  me  the.  finest  sight,  when  the 
fierce  beast— before  becoming  blinded  with  rage — lightly  stirs  the 
ground  bark  with  his  fore  foot,  moves  his  head  sbwly  from  side 
to  side — the  eyes  flaming  in  a  sparkle  of  lambent  jet — when  with 
breath  short  and  quick,  with  a  wary  glance  around,  he  selects — 
poor  fool — some  light,  fluttering  object,  instead  of  the  arms  that 
wave  it,  gives  one  deep  angry  bellow,  arid  dashes  forward.  Then 
begin  the  leaping  antics  of  his  active  enemies :  they  tease  him  to 
insanity,  fire-work  him,  until  the  sulphurous  flames  blister  his 
tough  hide  ;  hood  him,  prick  him,  stab  him — he  is  killed;  and  the 
two  white  steeds,  decorated  with  streaming  red  ribbons,  bound  in, 
and  the  slaughtered  beast,  with  glassy  eyes  and  lolling  tongue,  is 
dragged  out.  Sometimes,  though  rarely,  the  animal  is  terrified 
by  his  novel  position,  and  no  coaxing  will  make  him  show  fight ; 
then  boys  and  vagabonds  generally  are  permitted  to  leap  the 
barricades,  and  chase  the  scared  brute  about  the  circus,  with 
shouts  and  hisses,  when  he  is  driven  out  to  feed  the  dogs.  Then 
there  are  cheering  gritos  for  particularly  dextrous  picadors, 
who,  with  long  poles,  and  a  short  spike  at  the  end,  afoot, 
withstand  the  lunge  of  the  bull,  until  the  hide  in  the  terrible 
exertion  is  nearly  entirely  loosened  from  the  frame  ;  or  when  the 
daring  Matador,  with  a  single  vigorous  plunge,  drives  the  long 
blade  to  the  very  hilt,  through  a  bloody  sheath,  into  the  tired 
beast.  Again  at  longo  intervallo,  a  few  coins  are  flung  into  the 
circle,  to  reward  the  favored  gladiators.  All  this,  with  plenty  of 
dust,  oceans  of  orchata,  and  a  fair  show  of  lovely  faces,  made  up 
the  bull  fight. 

Later  in   the   evening   I  attended  the   kind    Padre   to   the 
Comedia.      The   theatre  was  small,    prettily  painted,    gilded, 


LA  COMEDIA.  289 

carved,  and  particularly  well-stocked  with  fleas.  The  audience 
was  highly  respectable,  and  the  female  portion  still  preserved  my 
appreciation  of  their  beauty  on  the  former  visit — there  was  less 
youth,  but  an  equal  degree  of  matronly  comeliness.  Unlike  the 
saffron-hued  damsels  generally  seen  throughout  Mexico,  these 
donas  had  rounded  forms,  rosy  complexions,  and  such  soft, 
languid  eyes,  and  hair  so  smoothly  banded  or  braided,  that  I  often 
felt  tempted  to  pass  my  hand  over  the  satin  tresses  of  a  lovely 
woman  seated  before  me. 

The  play  was  a  most  horrible  tragedy — all  about  Moors, 
Guzmans  and  Granada.  The  actors  magnificently  dressed,  heav- 
ing unnecessarily  long  respirations  at  every  word — in  fact  a 
gasping  species  of  elocution.  The  prompter,  too,  within  hia 
covered  trap  behind  the  foot-lights,  wheezed  like  one  far  gone  in 
the  asthma,  with  a  voice  louder  than  the  performers. 

The  audience  puffed  paper  cigars — men,  women  and  children — 
until  the  smoke  became  so  dense,  that  nothing  was  perceptible 
on  the  stage,  save  alone  the  shining  armor  that  encased  the  legs 
of  a  Moor. 

The  curtain  fell  at  midnight ;  and  after  an  hour  passed  in  a 
brilliant  cafe,  sipping  ices  and  punch,  I  returned  to  mine  inn. 

It  was  with  unfeigned  regret  I  parted  with  the  gentlemen  who 
had  been  civil  to  me  at  Guadalajara — particularly  Scftor  Llamas 
and  the  excellent  Padre — may  they  abide  muchos  anos — in  health 
and  prosperity  in  their  beautiful  city. 

On  the  7th  of  June,  escorted  by  my  former  antique  guide, 
Cypriano,  who  quite  reminded  me  of  a  knight  of  the  dark  ages, 
with  lance  and  pennon,  we  got  in  the  saddle,  at  nine  by  the 
evening  clock,  and  pursued  our  path  through  the  silent  lanes  and 
suburbs  of  the  city.  Without  the  moon  to  light  our  footsteps, 
13 


290  CHAPTER  XXXV. 

we  were  four  weary  hours  at  a  snail's  pace  in  reaching  the 
Porton,  or  Garita,  when,  after  much  parleying  from  house-tops 
and  gratings,  the  lazy,  sleepy  sentinels  were  persuaded  to  let  down 
the  chains,  that  barred  the  gateway,  and  we  passed  out  upon  the 
main  road.  The  officer  on  guard  informed  us  that  the  troops 
had,  some  weeks  before,  surprised  and  captured  a  number  of  the 
Ladrons,  near  Tequilla,  and  sixteen  had  already  been  executed, 
with  a  choice  reserve  of  nine  more  that  were  to  be  shot  on  the 
morrow ;  all  of  which  impressed  me  as  extremely  wise  and 
judicious  measures. 

We  went  jogging  along,  having  no  change  of  beasts,  for  I  had 
bought  a  stout  spotted  roadster,  called  by  the  natives  pinto — 
painted — but  by  me  Circo,  because  of  his  resemblance  to  those 
variegated  quadrupeds  commonly  exhibited  in  the  Olympic  sports 
of  North  America.  Towards  daylight  I  took  a  nap  beside  a 
rivulet,  and  with  the  sun  arose,  and  had  a  delicious  dip  in  the 
pure  water — all  the  reasoning  powers  of  my  ancient  mozo  to  the 
contrary.  And  here  I  feel,  in  gratitude,  called  upon  to  say  a  feeble 
word  in  praise  of  Mexican  guides.  They,  indeed,  should  be 
classed  with  arrieros  !  Their  attentions  are  unceasing.  I  found 
them  honest,  obliging,  good-tempered,  and  possessing  a  certain 
share  of  local  and  traditionary  intelligence.  They  appeared  to 
exist  without  sleep,  too  ;  for  whenever  I  laid  down,  I  pointed  to 
sun  or  stars,  as  a  celestial  clock,  to  mark  the  hours  and  true  to 
the  dial — was  always  awakened  at  the  proper  time,  finding  all 
ready  for  mounting,  even  to  the  spurs  attached  to  my  feet. 
Ha  dornudo  vd  bien  ?  quiere  vd  tamtito  de  pan  ?  una  capita  de 
licor,  pues !  says  your  guide,  producing  the  morsel  of  bread  or 
wine  from  the  pouches  of  the  saddle  ;  but  if  neither  be  required, 
he  will  roll,  and  light  you  a  cigarillo,  and  if  he  sees  you  enjoying 


MADELENA.  291 


its  soothing  flavor,  he  throws  up  his  hand  and  exclaims,  '  Ay  !  mi 
alma  !  estd  bueno!  I've  hit  your  fancy  now  ;'  and  continues  the 
route  with  renewed  good  humor,  apparently  amply  happy  that  he 
has  effected  something  to  please  you.  Such  a  one  was  old  Cypri- 
ano  ;  besides  having  a  fund  of  marvellous  legends — upon  every 
stone  cross  or  mountain  pass  in  Mexico — that  very  much  re- 
lieved the  occasional  monotony  and  fatigue  of  the  journey. 

The  ride  was  dreadfully  oppressive  with  heat  and  dust,  besides 
fear  of  robbers,  which,  after  a  by-no-means  hearty  breakfast  on 
a  water-melon  I  had  no  stomach  for.  An  hour  past  noon  we 
drew  up  near  the  environs  of  Tequilla,  and  remained  sleeping  by 
the  side  of  the  stream,  until  the  declining  sun  warned  us  to  be 
off.  The  horses  and  myself  had  been  washed  and  fed,  and  with 
a  cooler  atmosphere,  we  toiled  over  bad  roads,  hilly,  rocky  and 
dusty,  when  soon  after  nightfall  the  twinkling  lights  of  Made- 
lena  were  visible,  and  we  trotted  into  the  Meson.  The  neigh- 
borhood had  become  quiet  since  my  departure  ;  the  compadres 
dispersed,  and  the  paisanos  had  thrown  aside  the  weapons  they  dared 
not  use.  It  was  too  late  for  a  call  upon  the  Alcalde,  and  my 
venerable  guide  ordered  supper.  The  patron  of  the  inn  was 
not  an  obliging  person — not  anxious  to  add  to  the  comforts  of  his 
guests.  He  had  a  pair  of  daughters  flitting  about  the  yard 
in  loose  undress,  who  busied  themselves  for  an  hour  in  the 
attempt  to  boil  eggs  to  my  liking ;  but  after  the  fifteenth  trial, 
some  as  hard  as  brickbats,  and  others  hardly  warmed,  the  effort 
was  relinquished,  and  I  contented  myself  with  the  national  dish 
of  frijoles,  which  is  ever  an  excellent  preparation,  and  invariably 
well  cooked.  Meanwhile,  the  surly  patron  kept  a  lynx-eyed 
supervision  upon  the  erratic  damsels ;  and  they  never  came  near 
the  bench,  laid  for  our  supper,  without  he  would  snatch  the  dish 


292  CHAPTER  XXXV. 


from  their  fair  hands,  and,  with  a  rough  push,  cry  "  Basta  !  lasta  ! 
muchacha  !  anda  !  Be  off  with  you."  Old  Cypriano  lost  patience 
at  last ;  and  seizing  his  lance,  swore  by  the  Holy  Virgin  if  he  did 
not  know  how  to  treat  a  cavallero,  who  spent  his  cash  like  a  king, 
he'd  teach  him — he  would  !"  These  threats  had  the  desired 
effect ;  and  calling  off  his  handmaidens,  he  sent  them  to  the  cocina, 
sat  down  before  the  door,  and  left  us  in  peace.  I  remained  at  the 
Meson  until  daylight,  reclining  on  a  large  rough-built  settee  in 
the  patio,  with  no  other  covering  than  a  comfortable  serapa 
between  my  body  and  a  canopy  of  stars :  certainly  preferable 
to  the  close,  damp  holes  within  the  building,  where  fleas  and  ver- 
min parade  in  battalions  on  the  look-out  for  wayworn  travellers 
Moreover,  nothing  can  exceed  the  delicious  atmosphere  of  the 
nights,  in  the  Tier r a  templada.of  Mexico,  soft,  yet  invigorat- 
ing— clear,  calm  and  refreshing.  I  speak,  of  course,  of  the  dry 
season — with  the  rains  one  must  seek  a  more  modern  habitation. 

My  venerable  soldier  had  the  pinto,  grinding  his  last  mouthful 
of  grain  beside  me,  ready  for  a  start.  I  arose,  as  the  sailors 
say,  wide  awake  as  a  black  fish,  and  swung  into  the  saddle. 
Vayase  con  Dios — go  to  heaven,  or  the  other  place,  just  as  the  into- 
nation implies — said  the  grum  inn  keeper.  Hasta  nunca — hope 
never  to  see  your  ugly  phiz  again — retorted  Cypriano,  as  he  grip- 
ingly  counted  out  the  rials  for  our  entertainment ;  I  threw  some- 
thing more  weighty  to  the  muchackas,  who  repaid  me  with  kindly 
wishes. 

With  the  fresh  air  of  morning  we  left  Madelena,  and  kept  for 
some  miles  along  the  borders  of  a  broad,  shallow  lake,  of  the 
same  name,  until  the  road  diverged  to  the  right,  when  we  were 
obliged  to  forsake  the  good  ground,  and  level  country,  for  tedious 
labor,  over  mule  paths  and  rugged  mountains. 


MUCHATILTI.  293 

At  Mucliatilti  we  passed  some  ninety  soldiers,  horse  an  I  foot, 
barefoot,  conveying  a  pack  of  rascally -looking  thieves,  and  a  small 
field  piece.  They  vere  attended  by  twice  this  number  of 
women  and  children,  who  at  times  relieved  their  liege  lords  of 
muskets  or  equipments,  with  the  weight  of  camp  utensils  on 
their  heads.  On  questioning  a  sergeant  belonging  to  the  de- 
tachment, he  told  me  they  generally  marched  four  leagues  a  day, 
and  in  many  places  were  obliged  to  throw  the  gun  from  its  -car- 
riage, and  transport  each  part  separately  for  leagues  at  a  time. 
This  person  also  assured  me,  that  he  had  served  at  the  battle  of 
Bucna  Vista,  and  with  his  company  of  infantry  had  marched 
twenty-eight  leagues  in  forty-eight  hours,  with  but  a  pint  of 
parched  Indian  corn,  and  a  quart  of  water  per  man  !  So  far  as 
marching,  and  powers  of  enduring  privation  go,  I  presume  the 
Mexicans  can  do  as  much,  if  not  more,  than  other  nations. 
They  are  not  deficient  in  courage  either,  when  well  officered  and 
led — some  of  their  bloody  internal  struggles  attest  it — but  with 
us  they  proved  sadly  deficient  in  both. 

I  have  but  little  knowledge  of  what  constitutes  the  proper 
field  for  extended  military  operations  ;  but  from  a  few  indifferent 
ideas  picked  up  in  other  countries,  as  well  as  in  this  trip  through 
Mexico,  I  think  I  may  hazard  the  belief  that  in  the  line  of 
march  from  Guadalajara  towards  the  Pacific,  there  are  seldom  met 
with  positions  adapted  to  the  operations  of  large  bodies  of  troops, 
and  save  in  the  vicinity  of  large  towns,  an  army  of  any  magni- 
tude would  find  difiiculty  in  procuring  subsistence  ;  for  the 
country  is  thinly  populated,  and  but  little  land  under  cultivation, 
and  though  I  should  judge  not  totally  impassible  for  artillery,  it 
certainly  seems  an  impracticable  route  for  a  numerous  train,  or 
heavy  guns. 


294  CHAPTER  XXXV. 

Making  no  longer  stay  at  the  brightly-stained  inn  of  Mucha- 
tilti  than  was  requisite  to  swallow  a  cup  of  coffee,  and  thrash  a 
filthy  Indian  for  being  caught  flagrante  delictu — stealing  a  bit  of 
silver  from  my  bridle — we  traversed  the  table-land  beyond, 
and  began  zigzaging  through  denies  of  mountains  on  the  ap- 
proach to  the  Plan  de  Barrancas.  The  sky  became  overcast — 
thunder  was  growling  angrily  in  the  distance,  when  we  overtook 
a  drove  of  mules,  the  arrieros  urging  them  at  speed  down  a  valley  to 
escape  the  fury  of  the  impending  storm.  Descending  to  the  base 
of  a  gorge,  we  crossed  the  rocky  bed  of  a  rippling  brook,  and  re- 
moving the  saddles  from  our  horses,  led  them  above,  and  secured 
them  to  a  tree,  whilst  we  ascended  still  higher,  and  sought 
refuge  under  the  lee  of  a  great  shelving  crag  that  had  once 
formed  part  of  the  stupendous  wall,  five  thousand  feet  above  us. 
Ilain  began  to  fall  in  large  heavy  drops,  lightning  to  glare, 
and  thunder  came  nearer.  The  air  was  perfectly  still ;  and  the 
sharp  whistles  and  cries  of  the  drivers  echoed  and  re-echoed  from 
side  to  side  of  the  chasm,  as  they  hurried  their  beasts  across  the 
stream.  By-and-by  a  strong  gust  of  wind  went  rushing  over- 
head, the  thunder  came  crashing  yet  closer,  the  dark  slate- 
colored  clouds  poured  down  in  torrents,  and  lightning  forked, 
flashing  and  vivid,  made  the  narrow  valley  tremulous  with  noise 
and  fire.  The  rain  descended  in  unbroken  sheets,  and  in 
an  inconceivably  short  space  of  time,  the  bubbling  brook  had  be- 
come a  boiling  torrent,  swelling  and  leaping  from  rock  to  rock, 
until,  at  last,  joining  in  the  uproar  of  rain,  wind,  flame  and 
thunder,  the  rocks  themselves  were  loosened,  and  came  rumbling 
and  crashing  down  the  steep  gorges,  and  were  swept  away  in  the 
whirlpool  of  foaming  waters.  He  who  has  never  beheld  a  quickly- 
raised  storm  amid  wild  mountain  passes,  and  the  amazing  power  of 


THE  NUBARRADA.  395 

the  elements,  can  have  but  a  vague  idea  of  Nature  when  clothed 
in  all  her  angry  grandeur  and  sublimity. 

The  nubarrada  was  soon  over,  but  the  whole  face  of  the  valley 
was  changed :  trees  and  undergrowth  had  been  torn  up  by  the 
roots  or  washed  down — deep  fissures  had  been  cut  wherever  the 
red  clayey  soil  gave  play  to  the  impetuous  currents — masses  of 
basaltic  granite  had  been  dislodged,  thrown  from  their  founda- 
tions, hurled  some  distance  below,  and  either  served  to  block  up 
some  open  channel,  or  enlarge  others ;  and  the  point  where  the 
path  crossed  the  stream  had  been  burrowed  out  into  a  deep, 
raging  pool,  which  would  in  future  be  impassible. 

One  of  the  poor  mules  belonging  to  the  drove,  with  his  cargo 
of  sugar,  had  been  caught  and  carried  away  in  the  contending 
water  ;  the  arrieros  cursed  like  infidels,  and  wickedly  declared  they 
had  long  before  wished  a  like  fate  might  befall  him  for  his  stu- 
pidity. 

As  the  thunder  went  muttering  to  the  adjacent  mountains,  and 
the  flood  was  still  deluging  our  devoted  heads,  I  yelled  into  the  ear 
of  Cypriano,  who  all  the  while  kept  his  cigarillo  alight,  that  it  was 
una  cosa  rica — a  fine  display — tiene  vd  rason — "  there's  sense  in 
that,"  said  the  old  man,  "but  wouldn't  you  rather  have  a 
dry  serapa  and  calconcillos  r"  So  forthwith  he  wrung  the  mois- 
ture from  my  garments,  and  we  prepared  the  horses  for  service. 
Leading  them  by  a  dangerous  foothold  down  the  course  of  the 
stream,  we  came  to  an  enlarged  basin,  and  halted  on  a  smooth 
belt  of  rocks.  Here  the  sun  shown  again  warm  and  cheerily — we 
dried  our  reeking  rajment,  and  I  amused  myself  the  while  under 
a  light  cascade  of  turbid  water. 

At  midday  we  had  toiled  slowly  up  the  steep  sides  of  the  Bar- 
rancas, and  four  hours  later,  left  the  last  link  of  the  Sierra,  and 


296  CHAPTER  XXXV. 


drew  bridles  at  Istlan.     Having  no  further  need  of  the  post  ad- 
ministrador,    or   the    services   of  his   vivo   mule,   I    sought   the 
public  meson.    Here  were  seated  under  the  portals  a  select  group 
of  politicians,  listening  to,  and  commenting  upon  an  article  in  an 
old  newspaper,  read  with  much  emphasis  by  a  dirty  jacketless 
person,  with  a  head  so  large,  and  buried  so  deeply  between  his 
shoulders,  as  to  bear  a  close  resemblance  to  a  turtle.      Senor, 
said  he,  as  I  dismounted,  rising  with  a  graceful  gesture,  "  the 
good  patron  of  the  inn  is  away ;  the  caballero  who  addresses  you 
is  the  well  known  licendado  Don  Augustin  Jarano — criado  de  vd : 
What  can  be  done  for  you  ?  that  is  a  noble  animal  you  bestride  ; 
he  is  tired  !  beat  out — dead  !     You  will  profit  by  an  exchange — 
my  friend,   here,"   winking   to  one   of  his  auditors,    "  has   an 
angel  of  a  beast — tienes  sobre  pasos — has  a   gait  like  a  lady — 
paces !  and  has  refused  two  ounces — eh !  no  !  quarante  douros — 
forty  hard   dollars !"     Budnc,   I  replied,  much    to   the   horror 
of  my  guide,  who  began  to  think  the  sharp  advocate  was  going 
to  become  the  owner  of  the  pinto.     After  a  world  of  tugging   and 
struggling  a  miserable  spavined  nag  was  pulled  from  a  corral 
to  the  patio,  and  secured  to  a  post.     Waiting  until  the  praises  of 
this  muy  bueno  cavallo — this  fine  steed — had  been  fully  sounded, 
I  made  them  a  prompt  offer  of  six  rials  for  him  as  he  stood ! — 
when,  finding  the  gringo  was  not  to  be  so  easily  jockeyed,  they 
declared  he  was  not  worth  half  the  money,  and  we  became  warm 
friends  at  once.     I  tarried  an  hour,  discussing  the  right  of  church 
taxation ;  when  Cypriano,  having  had  a  fowl  grilled,  a  bowl  of 
frijoles,  bread,  and  country  wine,  snugly  stowed  in  the  alforgas^ 
I  informed  my  acute  acquaintances  that  I  was  bound  to  Guada- 
lajara,  bid   them  adios,   and    after     skirting   the   pretty   town, 
turned  to  the   opposite   direction.     It  is   always   advisable    in 


WE  ARE  MADE  UNHAPPf.  297 

Mexico  while  travelling,  to  avoid  if  possible  public  places,  and 
keep  the  destination  secret ;  for  the  compadres — highwaymen — 
are  often  in  collusion  with  people  about  mesons  and  derive  infor- 
mation of  the  guests  from  those  sources. 

Striking  a  path  on  the  banks  of  a  pretty  stream,  we  shortly 
found  a  secluded  nook,  beneath  a  scrub  olive-tree,  where  the 
beasts  were  bathed,  fed,  and  pickettcd  in  the  rich  grasses,  when 
we  did  much  the  same,  and  took  a  comfortable  siesta  beside  them. 

Towards  evening  resuming  the  journey,  a  few  leagues  carried 
us  to  Aguacatlan  ;  to  preserve  the  strength  of  our  animals  for  a 
thirty  leagues'  travel  on  the  morrow,  I  concluded  to  remain  until 
daylight.  The  spacious  fonda  was  filled  with  guests,  and  I  made 
the  acquaintance  of  an  agreeable  young  Irishman,  from  Tepic. 
In  an  adjoining  room  there  was  a  large  family  of  sefioritas,  con- 
voyed by  a  venerable  matron  and  servants.  They  were  very 
chatty  and  amiable  while  sitting  in  the  patio  in  front  of  their 
domicile  ;  so  much  so,  in  fact,  that  the  sefiora  became  suspicious, 
and,  as  my  Milesian  companion  remarked,  "  corraVd  the 
dongellas  too  early  in  the  evening."  The  duenna  had  no  com- 
passion for  bachelors,  and  we  saw  no  more  of  their  fluttering 
white  dresses  and  ribosas ;  though  we  could  hear  them  frolick- 
ing and  shouting  in  great  glee,  which  was  very  provoking,  as 
windows  there  were  none,  and  Spanish  bolts  and  portals  being 
famous  for  strength  and  solidity,  we  were  obliged  to  relinquish 
any  further  hope  of  their  charming  society. 

It   was  getting   late,   old   Cypriano  was  sitting  at   my  door, 

enveloped  in  a  serapa,  giving  no  signs  of  life,  save  the  occasional 

reluming  of  the    cigarillo,  like    a  dim  glow-worm,    betwixt  his 

teeth.     The  honest  fellow  needed  rest,  and  saying  Buenos  noches 

13* 


298  CHAPTER  XXXV. 

I  threw  myself  upon  the  brick  bedstead,  with  saddle  for  pillow, 
and  was  soon  asleep. 

Before  sunset  on  the  following  afternoon,  my  gallant  little 
beast  galloped  bravely  into  Tepic,  and  I  mis  again  made  quite  at 
home  with  Mr.  Bissell.  A  vessel  was  awaiting  me  at  San  Bias, 
but  the  passage  being  a  tedious  one  to  Mazatlan  by  sea,  I  con- 
cluded to  pursue  the  land  route  along  the  coast  to  the  latter  port, 
on  the  following  night,  and  accordingly  called  on  General  Aristi, 
who  endorsed  my  passport,  and  I  then  took  a  post  license.  I 
was  sorry  to  discharge  my  faithful  old  guide,  Cypriano,  but  a 
liberal  donation,  and  present  of  the  pinto  served  to  lessen  our 
mutual  grief.  He  still  hung  about  the  court-yard,  jealous  of  the 
attentions  shown  me  by  others,  and  buckling  on  my  spurs,  affec- 
tionately-pressed  my  legs  at  parting. 

I  rode  about  Tcpic,  with  a  young  Englishman,  who  was  hand- 
some enough  to  drive  all  the  women  in  town  distracted.  The 
city  has  not  the  air  of  stir  and  bustle,  like  other  places  of  note  in 
the  interior,  nor  is  it  so  well  built;  it  has  charms,  however,  in 
quietude,  in  verdant  fields,  the  fertility  of  its  lovely  plain,  its  swift 
streams,  long  lines  of  gardens,  all  looking  as  if  calmly  cradled  in 
the  arms  of  the  giant  sierras  that  encircle  it. 

The  rainy  season  was  approaching,  and  whilst  we  were 
bathing  in  the  little  rush  and  mat-built  cabins  by  the  river, 
the  first  shower  fell  —  there  were  numbers  of  ladies  and 
children  beneath  the  leafy  frames,  which  only  served  for 
shelter  a  moment,  and  at  last,  in  desperation,  groups  of 
them  sallied  out  for  a  run  to  the  town  ;  the  effort  was  ineffect- 
ual, the  gusts  of  wind  and  rain  drove  them  back,  with  light 
dresses  completely  saturated,  and  clinging  to  round  pretty  limbs 
only  more  exposed  in  efforts  to  conceal  them.  Our  gallant  offers 


RIO  GRANDE  AND  SANTIAGO.  299 

of  assistance  were  all  in  vajn,  they  only  screamed  and  laughed 
the  louder  the  nearer  we  advanced ;  thus  on  the  wet  grass  they 
reclined,  and  remained  in  the  heavy  rains  until  servants  returned 
with  shawls  and  wrappers,  when,  with  many  a  light  laugh  and 
flashing  glance,  they  ran  across  the  plain. 

Although  prepared  to  leave  Tepic  at  midnight,  the  rain  was 
violent  and  darkness  too  black  to  begin  the  journey.  Towards 
daylight,  with  guide  and  postboy,  and  closely  buttoned  armas, 
of  skin  leggings,  with  faces  turned  from  the  tempest,  we  made  the 
attempt.  Vvrc  had  not  proceeded  much  beyond  the  city,  when 
the  roads  became  so  exceedingly  slippery  over  a  clayey  soil,  and 
our  progress  so  tedious  and  dangerous,  that  we  dismounted  at.  a 
rancho,  and  were  compelled  to  remain  until  near  noon.  By  this 
time  the  heaviest  clouds  had  apparently  squeezed  themselves  dry, 
and  under  light  droppings  we  again  pushed  on  and  commenced 
descending  very  gradually  from  the  grand  plateau  towards  the 
Tierra  Caliente  below.  This  I  did  not  accomplish  without  having 
my  steed  to  fall  with  me,  but  luckily  escaped  injury,  the  saddle 
bearing  the  brunt  of  the  shock,  and  a  broken  stirrup  saving  my 
leg  and  foot  from  a  like  mishap.  We  reached  the  low  lands 
within  eight  leagues  of  San  Bias,  and  found  a  disagreeable  con- 
trast in  the  dry  heat,  from  the  salubrious  atmosphere  above. 

Changing  horses  and  rapid  riding  brought  us  to  the  main  trunk 
of  the  Rio  Grande,  when  embarking  with  our  saddles  and  geer,  in 
broad  canoes,  we  were  ferried  to  the  opposite  bank  at  Santiago. 
The  river  is  wide,  rapid  and  muddy.  Small  houses  of  rushes  ex- 
tended from  the  banks,  and  hundreds  of  people  were  washing  or 
bathing  within  them. 

The  town  appeared  to  have  been  visited  with  a  heavy  shower 
of  water-melons ;  I  had  never  before  seen  such  quantities.  In 


300  CHAPTER  XXXV. 


front  of  every  house  there  were  pyramids  five  feet  high,  like  racks 
oi  shot  in  an  ordnance  yard ;  every  man,  woman  and  child  had 
their  heads  immersed  to  the  ears  in  huge  fragments ;  .even  cattle, 
swine  and  dogs  were  at  work,  and  the  river,  too,  was  covered  with 
seeds  and  rinds.  It  was  not  surprising,  that  under  such  a  novel 
dispensation,  there  was  delay  in  procuring  horses ;  to  pass  "my 
time  I  supplied  myself  with  a  huge  green  monster  of  its  spe- 
cies, engaged  a  little  shed  of  rushes,  and  cooled  my  limbs  in  the 
tepid  waters,  which  last  feat  did  not  in  the  least  shock  the  modesty 
of  an  ancient  planchadora — washerwoman — -who  carried  on  her 
occupation  quite  unconcernedly  beside  me. 

Under  lash  and  spur  away  we  went  in  great  good  humor,  but 
had  not  gone  a  league,  when  I  waxed  exceeding  wroth  on  dis- 
covering that  some  watchful  thief  had  stolen  three  ounces  from 
my  hat  while  bathing — it  was  too  late  to  return,  and  we  con- 
signed him  to  his  just  deserts.  The  roads  were  perfectly  level, 
dry  and  sandy ;  at  times  we  scented  the  ocean  air,  borne  along  by 
the  regular  sea  breeze,  and  the  atmosphere  was  filled  with  knats 
and  musquitoes,  that  by  no  means  enlivened  the  journey.  The 
vegetation  had  changed,  and  we  passed  for  leagues  through  groves 
of  tapering  palm  trees,  broad-leafed  bananas,  rank  vines  and 
vegetation.  Fording  the  Rio  San  Pedro,  we  traversed  the  little 
towns  of  Rosa  Morada  and  Buena  Vista,  thence  over  the  Rio 
Cana  to  Acaponeta.  The  river  was  a  clear,  shallow  stream,  and 
had  not  yet  been  swollen  or  turbid  by  the  freshets  near  its  source 
above.  We  had  ridden  all  night,  and  sending  my  mozo  to  the  town, 
with  the  post  boy  who  had  suffered  severely  from  the  sting  of  an 
alacran,  a  venomous  scorpion,  I  remained  to  bathe  and  put  on  my 
other  shirt. 

During  the  entire  trip  to  and  from  Mexico,  I  found  that  by 


ACAPONETA.  30] 


eating  sparingly  of  light  food,  smoking  less,  and  laving  constantly, 
I  could  endure  almost  any  amount  of  fatigue,  with  but  an  hour  or 
two  of  sleep  in  the  twenty-four  ;  a  few  paper  cigarillos  was  all  the 
extraneous  stimulant  I  indulged  in  while  on  the  road. 

Acoponeta  is  a  hot  little  town,  half  built  of  mud,  with  a  spa- 
cious rural-like  square,  shaded  by  fine  trees,  and  boasting  of  a 
quaint  old  church.  It  is  but  a  few  leagues  from  the  ocean,  sur- 
rounded by  a  sandy  soil,  which  however,  under  the  sun's  fierce 
rays,  over  all  the  Tierra  Caliente,  produces  quantities  of  tropical 
plants :  the  cassava  for  meal,  bananas  and  guavas,  with  melons 
and  many  kinds  of  fruit.  The  inhabitants  of  these  secluded  dis- 
tricts, living  in  little  worlds  of  their  own,  free  from  care  or 
war,  regardless  of  the  political  revolutions  so  continually  agitating 
the  mother  country,  seem  to  enjoy  the  dolce  far  niente  in  its 
truest  sense.  They  are  too  poor  to  excite  the  rapacity  of  the 
government;  their  land  yields  almost  spontaneously  all  means 
of  subsistence  ;  they  live  in  mud  cabins  or  bamboo  huts,  through 
whose  light  lattice-work  of  reeds  or  trellis,  the  sea  breeze  cools 
them  during  the  languid  siesta ;  then  at  the  fiesta  or  fandango, 
the  women,  in  white  muslin  camizettas  and  gaily  striped  bas- 
quinas,  with  gilt  baubles,  perhaps,  thrust  through  their  black 
locks,  attended  by  the  men,  whose  only  wealth  consists  of  horse, 
saddle,  spurs  and  serapa — dance,  game  and  drink  until  the  fiesta 
is  ended,  with  no  fears  of  interruption  save  what  lies  in  the  sharp 
steel  of  their  mercurial  cuchillos — ignorant  and  unenvious  of  all 
around  them. 

I  found  my  guide  in  the  Plaza,  and  walked  into  a  white  build- 
ing on  a  corner,  purporting  to  be  a  Fonda  y  Billar.  It  was  Sun- 
day morning,  besides  some  notable  feast  day  ;  a  little  old  spider- 
legged  uneven  billiard  table  was  thronged  by  rakish  blades,  with 


302  CHAPTER  XXXV. 


little  miniature  nine  pins  stuck  in  the  centre  of  the  cloth,  which 
were  being  rapidly  knocked  down  by  the  players  ;  a  pulperia  was 
close  at  hand,  and  the  chink  of  copilas,  filled  with  aguadiente  or 
muscal,  was  keeping  a  musical  accompaniment  to  the  click  of  the 
billiard  balls.  The  patron  was  an  active,  portly  person,  and  from 
his  clean,  natty  attire  and  huge  beard,  with  a  certain  sea  roll  to 
his  gait,  I  correctly  surmised  that  he  had  "  sailed  the  broad  ocean," 
or  that  he  might  have  been  a  retired  pirate.  He  received  me 
very  hospitably,  ordered  a  lithe  black-eyed  little  girl  of  ten  years 
not  to  go  to  the  Iglesia  until  El  Capitan  had  made  a  breakfast,  and 
pointing  to  a  bedstead  in  the  sala,  upon  which  was  tightly  stretched 
a  side  of  dressed  leather,  desired  me  to  repose  until  he  could  pro- 
cure horsos. 

From  my  position  I  had  a  clear  view  around  the  Plaza — 
crowds  of  gaily-dressed  paisanos  were  moving  from  house  to  house, 
or  thronging  the  bough-built  booths  and  little  shops,  all  strewed 
beneath  the  lofty  trees,  sipping  dulces,  making  purchases,  eating 
fruit,  smoking  or  gaming.  Presently  the  large  bell  began  tolling 
for  high  mass ;  like  magic,  at  the  first  stroke  of  the  iron  tongue, 
traffic  ceased,  the  monte  was  discontinued,  the  dealer  putting  by 
money  and  cards ;  half  eaten  fruit  was  thrown  upon  the  ground, 
children  ceased  squalling,  caracolling  steeds  were  reined  sharply 
back  by  riders  crossing  the  square,  the  noise  of  balls  and  glasses 
in  the  Billar  and  Tienda  was  silenced,  hats  were  reverently  doff- 
ed, cigarillos  dropped,  and  the  hum  and  murmur  of  many  voices 
had  passed  away.  Then,  as  the  little  chimes  with  noisy  throats 
were  bursting  forth  in  clanging  peals,  the  whole  concourse  of  per- 
sons that  filled  the  plaza  went  moving  with  uncovered  heads, 
sombreros  in  hand,  toward  the  church,  and  now  the  organ  rose  in 
solemn  strains,  embers  were  swinging,  multitudes  of  tapers  were 


TIERRA  CALIENTE.  303 

twinkling  within  the  nave,  like  stars  in  the  firmament,  while 
hundreds  were  kneeling  in  piety  and  awe  before  the  shrines  they 
worshipped.  In  no  portion  of  the  world  can  there  be  found  more 
true  respect  for  religion  or  real  reverence,  than  in  some  parts  of 
Mexico,  and  the  truthfulness  and  simplicity  with  which  they  con- 
duct the  beautiful  ceremonials  of  the  catholic  church,  is  not  a 
flattering  commentary  upon  the  indifferent  professions  of  more 
enlightened  countries. 

In  witnessing  this  impressive  scene,  I  sighed  to  become  a  con- 
vert, and  indeed  I  felt  convinced  that  if  I  had  had  the  persuasive 
lips  exerted  for  my  conversion,  that  pertained  to  the  pcnserosa 
face  and  Murillo  eyes  of  my  host's  graceful  little  daughter,  I 
should  have  thrown  away  the  sword  for  the  cross  on  the  spot. 
She  was  standing  with  half  raised  eyes,  and  an  impatient  expres- 
sion, wondering  very  naturally,  no  doubt,  why  the  gringo  did  not 
swallow  the  eggs  and  milk  she  had  prepared  by  her  sire's  com- 
mands—  Quiere  ustedmas  Senor  1 — want  anything  else — she  mur- 
mured, with  a  pretty,  petulant  frown  ;  "  No  !  no  !  amigita  !  mil 
gracias,  forgive  me  for  detaining  you  from  the  mass ;"  her  face 
brightened  joyously,  and  readjusting  her  little  flowing  ribosa,  she 
tripped  away  to  her  devotions. 

Horses  were  soon  at  the  door,  and  passing  beside  the  now- 
deserted  booths  and  shade,  we  once  more  became  exposed  to  the 
burning  glare  of  the  tropical  sun.  During  the  afternoon,  light 
showers  of  rain  chased  us  along  the  road — a  great  relief  from 
breathing  the  light  sandy  dust  of  the  parched  soil ;  but  as  night 
came  on,  and  our  track  led  through  interminable  forests  of  syca- 
mores, closely  woven  with  thousands  of  creeping  vines  and  para- 
sitical plants,  the  very  light  and  air  were  shut  out,  and  what  with 
myriads  of  stinging  insects,  heat  and  dust,  I  thought  of  never 


304  CHAPTER  XXXV. 

surviving.  Two  hours  past  midnight  we  emerged  from  these 
sultry  groves,  and  reached  the  village  of  Esquinapa,  where, 
changing  steeds,  I  was  attended  by  an  old  post  boy,  named 
Tomas ;  and  from  the  moment  I  unceremoniously  disturbed  his 
slumbers  until  we  parted,  he  never  ceased  singing  and  rhym- 
ing. He  would  have  made  a  character  for  Cervantes.  Awak- 
ing with  a  couplet  on  his  tongue,  he  followed  it  up  by  a  trite 
Spanish  proverb,  hit  off  scores  of  doggerel,  lite  an  improvisatore, 
on  my  name,  and,  indeed,  with  his  joyous,  hearty  old  laugh- 
ter, that  acted  like  an  epidemic  in  every  scar  and  wrinkle  of  his 
fine  bronzed  face — with  generous  bonhommie  and  good  humor,  he 
kept  me  full  of  merriment  the  nine  leagues  we  travelled ;  and  I 
have  only  to  regret,  for  my  own  satisfaction,  not  having  noted 
some  of  his  poetical  sallies. 

We  gained  the  Rio  Rosario  before  dawn,  and  halted  between 
two  channels,  on  a  dry  pebbly  spot,  where,  throwing  myself  from 
the  saddle,  I  plunged  into  the  running  water,  and  then,  with  a 
little  mound  of  sand  for  a  pillow,  took  the  first  half-hours  sleep 
since  leaving  Tepic.  At  sunrise,  old  Tomas  aroused  me  with  a 
verse  and  song,  and  fording  the  remaining  fork  of  the  river,  we 
entered  Rosario.  It  is  a  place  of  some  importance,  with  a  num- 
ber of  substantial  public  buildings — internal  custom  house,  a 
tobacco  monopoly,  and  barracks  for  a  military  commandancia  ;  in 
fact  less  provincial,  more  modernized  with  cafes,  shops,  socie- 
dads,  and  well-constructed  houses  than  any  town  of  the  Tierra 
Caliente,  save  Mazatlan.  While  awaiting  a  relay,  I  was 
regaled  by  the  gentlemanly  administrador  of  the  Duana  with  a 
cup  of  delicious  chocolate,  and  in  turn  favored  him  with  late 
news  from  the  capital. 

Departing  from  Rosario,  which  is  nearly  thirty  leagues  from 


HOW  TO  TRAVEL  IN   MEXICO.  305 


the  Port,  I  came  on  at  a  flying  gallop  to  the  old  Presidio  ;  then 
tarrying  for  breakfast  with  General  Anaya,  I  again  continued 
with  all  speed  to  Urias,  where  my  horse's  heels,  and  my  own 
anxiety,  outstripped  the  broken  wind  of  the  guide's,  and  I  never 
drew  rein  before  reaching  the  Marismas  of  Mazatlan.  The  tide 
was  very  high,  and  I  was  almost  forced  to  swim  ;  but  encouraged 
by  a  cavalcade  of  gentlemen  on  the  opposite  shore,  I  struggled 
through,  and  was  greeted  by  hosts  of  acquaintances,  who,  by 
mere  accident  and  fun,  had  proposed  to  meet  me  on  the  road.  I 
feel  assured  that  I  never  shall  be  so  handsomely  escorted  again  ; 
and  what  added  to  the  eclat  of  my  arrival  was,  that  upon 
entering  the  crowded  plaza  a  polite  commissary  ordered  the  band 
to  play  "  Hail  Columbia!"  and  I  was  nothing  loth  to  hide  my 
blushes,  travel-stained  garments,  and  jaded  horse,  from  the  ad- 
miring populace,  and  seek  refuge  within  the  residence  of  the 
Governor. 

Thus  terminated  my  rough  notes  and  jolts  in  a  Mexican  sad- 
dle, after  a  journey  of  near  twenty-five  hundred  miles,  mostly 
on  horseback ;  and  the  last  one  hundred  and  twelve  leagues 
from  Tepic  performed  in  fifty-three  hours,  which  was  said  to  be 
the  quickest  trip  on  record.  I  was  happy  that  the  journey  was 
finished  ;  and  although  I  experienced  no  subsequent  fatigue,  and 
my  frame  was  much  stronger,  yet  it  is  an  undertaking  that 
I  should  not  be  anxious  to  attempt  again. 

When  a  gentleman  travels  in  Mexico,  he  goes  provided  with 
beds  and  baggage  on  pack  mules,  and  half  a  dozen  attendants  at 
least,  armed  to  the  teeth,  and  ready  to  do  battle  when  occasion  re- 
quires. In  my  case  it  was  different :  at  all  times  hurried,  with  at 
best  but  indifferent  beasts — riding  night  and  day  together — never 
meeting  a  person  on  the  roads  without  a  mutual  fumbling  in  the 


306  -          CHAPTER  XXXV. 


holsters  for  pistols,  not  knowing  whether  in  raising  the  hand 
to  the  sombrero,  it  is  intended  to  salute  or  shoot  you,  as  friend 
or  foe  ;  yet,  the  provinces  of  the  -Republic  that  I  traversed  were 
out  of  the  beaten  track  of  tourists,  with  portfolios  and  poodles — 
a  country  where  one  is  per  force  obliged  to  rough  it  a  little  ; 
and  where  in  the  first  essay,  as  in  my  case,  the  novelty  and 
excitement  attending  fresh  scenes,  varied  scenery,  strange  forms, 
manners  and  habits,  more  than  balanced  the  fatigue,  insecurity 
and  annoyances  of  the  journey. 


CHAPTER    XXXVI. 

MY  arrival  happened  on  the  13th  of  June.  The  garrison  had 
been  very  much  strengthened,  and  a  block-house  was  under  con- 
struction near  the  estero,  with  the  expectation  of  holding  the 
town  during  the  rainy  season  and  bad  weather,  in  the  absence 
of  force  afloat.  The  news  of  the  peace  changed  these  plans, 
and  preparations  were  commenced  for  evacuating  the  town. 

My  little  post  at  the  Garita  had  been  relieved  of  its  old 
garrison,  and  fallen  into  strange  hands,  so  I  took  quarters  with 
my  good  friend  Don  Guillenno  and  Sefior  Molinero,  where  we 
lounged  all  day  in  the  cool  patios,  under  the  awnings,  smoking 
away  like  Turks.  Mazatlan  was  extremely  gay,  owing  to  the 
yearly  festival  that  takes  place  on  the  Olas  Atlas — a  curving 
beach  between  two  bluff  promontories  facing  the  ocean.  I  am 
ignorant  if  there  be  in  the  calendar  a  patron  saint  devoted  to 
gamblers,  or  I  should  certainly  believe  that  this  jubilee  was  ex- 
pressly dedicated  to  him. 

There  were  a  great  number  of  bough  and  cane-built  booths 
raised  on  the  sandy  promenade,  all  prettily  draped  with  muslin 
and  other  light  fabrics,  each  having  a  tasteful  display  of  liquors 
and  fruits,  with  little  saloons  screened  off,  and  facing  the  sea,  for 
either  eating  or  gaming :  further  on  were  stout  upright  poles, 
firmly  planted  in  the  ground,  supporting  circularly  swinging 


CHAPTER  XXXVI. 


coaches  or  wooden  horses,  some  revolving  perpendicularly,  while 
others  described  the  horizontal  circuit :  beyond  were  meaner  bar- 
racas  for  the  lower  orders — gaming,  mountebanks,  juggling,  eat- 
ing, and  maybe  a  little  fighting. 

Towards  nightfall  the  population  assembled  on  the  Olas  Altas, 
and  the  scene  became  very  gay  and  animated — the  monte  tables 
were  thronged — dollars  and  ounces  of  gold  chinking  incessantly — 
loto  banks  playing  for  prizes  of  dulces  or  licores — Indians  with 
figured  boards  and  dice,  making  more  noise  than  their  confreres  in 
the  trade,  betting  coppers  or  fried  fish.  The  cars  and  horses  were 
filled  with  delighted  paisanos,  who  were  enjoying  the  pleasures  of 
city  life.  At  the  fandangos,  too !  were  girls  in  their  gayest 
dresses,  dancing  to  the  enlivening  music  of  harps  and  guitars, 
bursting  forth  at  intervals  with  some  shrill  chaunt  or  ballad,  to 
relieve  their  nimble  feet,  perhaps,  from  exertions  attending  the 
jarabie  or  jota.  It  is  altogether  quite  an  attractive  spot ;  and  when 
one  is  tired  of  the  monte,  bowling  at  Smithers',  or  dancing  at 
the  fandangos,  there  is  the  sparkling  surf  at  your  feet,  where  the 
energies  may  be  revived  for  a  cosy  supper  with  some  fascinating 
little  Mexicanas,  who  are  never  known  to  decline  a  cup  of 
chocolate  and  sweetmeats. 

The  influx  of  so  many  strangers  from  the  surrounding  country 
was  not  particularly  advantageous  to  the  morals  of  the  Mazatlanese 
community :  petty  thieving  and  pilfering  were  all  the  rage. 
One  evening  some  expert  practitioner  contrived  to  entice  a  valu- 
able pair  of  pistols,  clothing,  and  other  articles  from  my  table  in 
the  centre  of  a  large  apartment,  by  introducing  a  pole  and  hook 
through  the  iron  grille  of  the  window ;  and  the  same  night  my 
friend  Molinero  was  robbed  of  his  bed-clothes,  while  sleeping, 
by  the  same  enterprising  method.  Indeed  I  incline  to  the  belief 


HOW  TO  LEARN  CASTILIAN.  309 

that  one  may  have  the  gold  from  his  molars  picked  out,  if  the 
mouth  chances  to  be  opened,  in  a  crowd  of  these  cunning  leperos. 
My  consolation  was,  in  being  aware  that  they  had  filched  all 
worth  stealing,  and  in  being  indifferent  to  future  depredations. 

The  first  night  of  my  arrival  I  met  our  former  little  house- 
keeper at  the  Olas  Altas,  surrounded  by  a  group  of  merry  friends  : 
"  Ah!  dios!  she  exclaimed,  "  but  they  told  me  you  were  never 
to  return — what  diablitos  those  Yankees  for  telling  such  fibs. 
You  have  been  gone  just  five  Domingos  " — they  count  by  Sun- 
days,— "  and  that  loco  gringo  amigo  of  yours  nearly  ruined  your 
horse,  and  came  near  breaking  his  own  neck  in  the  plaza — 
grades  a  Dies/"  Her  breath  being  by  this  time  exhausted, 
we  made  up  a  little  purse,  or  vaca,  and  fortune  befriending  it  at 
the  monte,  we  sent  her  home,  with  enoiigh  silver  to  keep  her 
Cuartel  going  for  a  twelvemonth.  Early  the  next  morning  she 
was  at  my  bedside,  saying,  Digamc  de  sus  viajes — tell  me  your 
adventures.  To  be  relieved  of  her  inquisitivcness,  and  get  more 
sleep,  I  threw  around  her  pretty  throat  a  silver  image  and  chain 
of  our  lady  of  Guadalupe  which  saved  me  anymore  exercises  in  the 
Spanish  idiom  until  breakfast.  And,  by  the  way,  ignorant 
people  may  indulge  the  idea  that  the  Castilian  tongue  may  easily 
be  acquired  "  without  a  master,"  but,  so  far  as  my  individual 
experience  goes,  no  study  is  comparable  to  its  acquisition  with 
a  tutoress,  who,  with  the  charms  of  bright  eyes,  rosy  lips, 
and  clear  natal  enunciation,  renders  the  task  not  only  facile, 
but  pleasurable.  I  would  advise  any  person  who  wishes  to 
become  proficient  in  this  beautiful  language  to  pay  his  homage  to 
some  artless,  unaffected  senorita,  who,  although  she  may  not 
be  ultra-enthusiastic,  will  still  seem  pleased,  and  interested  at  all 
your  blunders,  correct  you  with  a  tap  of  her  fan  ;  and  if  you  be 


310  CHAPTER  XXXVI. 


devoted,  though  stupid,  will  forgive  all  but  flirtation  with  her 
cunada — confidant ; — guide  your  bungling  feet  in  the  dance, 
walk  with  you  in  the  plaza,  receive  your  little  devotions  of  laces, 
gloves  and  flowers,  and  sing  her  sweetest  low  can9ioncitas  for 
your  especial  admiration. 

The  regret  of  the  townspeople  was  universal  at  our  approach- 
ing departure ;  and  even  the  few  who  were  at  first  opposed  to  the 
North  Americans  had  become  the  warmest  m  our  favor.  The 
sailors  had  all  embarked,  and  the  marines  remained  to  perform 
the  concluding  honors.  On  the  17th  of  June,  in  the  afternoon, 
General  Negrete,  escorted  by  a  number  of  officers  and  a  small 
squadron  of  cavalry,  entered  the  Plaza.  Drums  rolled,  the 
soldiers  presented  arms,  the  American  flag  came  down,  the 
Mexican  Eagle  flew  up  over  the  Quartel,  and  amid  the  thunder- 
ing of  artillery  from  ships  and  shore,  bowing  of  officers,  and 
waving  of  chapeaus,  the  ceremony  ended.  Arraya  remained  at 
the  Presidio,  having  delegated  his  authority  to  the  second  in 
command. 

I  mounted  my  horse  for  the  last  time,  rode  through  the  deserted 
garita,  and  around  the  town.  Many  a  kind  adios  was  said,  and 
although  mine  were  laughed  in  return,  I  felt  quite  sad,  for  I  had 
made  happy  acquaintances  and  friends,  amid  a  class  of  people  of 
all  others,  the  wide  world  over,  whose  society  and  manners  I  have 
ever  fancied,  besides  being  relieved  of  the  detestable  monotony  of 
shipboard  ;  and  I  regard  the  half-year  passed  there  as  among  the 
most  contented  of  my  existence,  and  shall  ever  refer  with  many  a 
yearning  to  those  pleasant  days  in  Mazatlan.  However,  repinings 
are  unavailing  when  a  man's  course  in  life  is  clearly  defined,  and 
he  has  no  alternative  but  the  almshouse  on  a  dead  lee-shore,  and 
carrying  a  press  of  canvas  to  weather  it ;  or  else  I  might  have 


LAST  SIGH  OF  THE  GRINGOS.  31 ! 

taken  the  law  in  mine  own  hands,  and  settled  down  comfortably 
in  Mexico. 

"  Ay  de  mi !  un  ano  felice 
Parece  un  soplo  ligero, 
Pero  sin  dicha,  un  in*tante. 
Es  un  siglo  de  tormento." 

Farewell  Mazatlan !  adieu,  ye  black-eyed  girls,  who  so  detested 
the  Yankees,  and  shed  such  pearly  tears  at  their  departure  ! 
Adieu  to  fandangos,  bayles,  and  tiny  feet !  Good-bye,  ye  jovial, 
hospitable  traders,  and  your  ruby  wine  !  Alas ! — in  one  sad 
sigh  ! — Farewell ! 


CHAPTER    XXXVII. 

THE  squadron  sailed,  and  I  was  ordered  to  embark  in  a  fine 
old  store-ship,  to  cross  the  Sea  of  Cortez.  The  lumbering  craft 
went  urging  her  lazy  length  through  the  water,  her  sails  now  and 
then  giving  a  gentle  napping,  as  if  to  convince  herself  they  were 
not  asleep,  but  napping,  unlike  the  indolent  sailors  beneath  their 
shade.  "  Blessed  be  he  who  first  invented  sleep,  for  it  covereth 
a  man  all  over  like  a  mantle."  When  eyelids  have  fallen  with 
very  grief  or  weariness,  how  we  may  retire  within  a  shell,  to  live 
a  new  peaceful  existence,  shut  out  from  all  the  toils  and  cares 
of  everyday  life. 

We  arrived  in  the  broad  bay  of  La  Paz.  Circling  hills 
and  mountains  arose  red,  parched  and  arid,  enclosing  on  three 
sides  a  vast  sheet  of  water — like  an  inland  gulf — thirty  miles  in 
length  and  fifteen  wide. 

Vegetation  appears  to  have  forgotten  this  pprtion  of  the 
Peninsula  entirely,  at  least  to  deck  it  in  that  delightful  greenish 
hue  that  attracts  the  gaze  when  beheld  from  a  distance — creeping 
up  narrow  valleys,  or  reposing,  like  an  emerald  carpet,  on  the 
sloping  plains.  Here  Nature  looks  as  if  baked  in  an  oven,  until 
she  had  been  thoroughly  done  too  !  A  mile  from  the  anchorage, 
at  the  head  of  the  bay,  another  large  lake  extends  beyond,  and 
near  by  is  the  little  town  of  La  Paz — the  ancient  Santa  Cruz  of 


LIFE  IN  LA  PAZ.  313 

Cortcz.  The  place  has  nothing  to  recommend  it,  except  the  fig- 
groves  and  vineyards  of  a  Portuguese,  named  Manuel,  and  a  tank 
of  fresh  water,  where  one  may  have  a  morning  dip,  before  tho 
vines  are  irrigated.  There  were  a  score  or  more  sefioritas,  who 
danced  with  us  all  night,  and  washed  our  clothes  all  day,  and 
very  well  they  performed  both  accomplishments,  being  withal 
intelligent,  and,  to  a  certain  degree  educated;  also  two  or 
three  billiard-tables ;  a  monte  bank,  of  course ;  millions  of  cat- 
fish ;  plenty  of  fleas,  dust,  and  heat ;  and  about  an  hundred  of 
Yankee  Volunteers — charming  fellows  they  were,  as  was  remarked, 
"  for  a  small  tea-party  without  spoons."  I  think  this  is  a  correct 
summary  of  all  the  diversions  and  societies  of  La  Paz,  in  tho 
which  we  soon  became  contented  and  domesticated. 

No  civilized  beings  excepting  those  unkillablc  gentry,  yclept 
salamanders,  could  by  any  chance  endure  the  noontide  heat 
on  shore  ;  no  one  ever  had  energy  to  consult  the  mercury,  but  we 
presumed  it  was  very  high — say  three  or  four  hundred.  We  never 
left  the  ship  until  after  the  land  wind  came  from  the  lofty  heights 
to  apprize  us,  perhaps,  that  we  might  risk  a  visit,  without  becom- 
ing sublimed  in  perspiration.  Then  the  vine-clad  arbors  of  the 
Portuguese  were  our  favorite  resort,  where  we  killed  time,  devour- 
ing figs  and  graphs,  or  puffing  cigarillos ;  the  evenings  came  cool 
and  temperate,  with  never  a  cloud  in  the  heavens ;  the  lassitude 
and  languor  of  the  sultry  day  gave  place  to  more  invigorating 
influences,  and  we  sauntered  from  casa  to  casa,  wherever  lights 
were  twinkling.  The  doflcellas  were  seated  on  low  stools  beneath 
the  leafy  awnings,  whilst  careful  amas — house-keepers — were  ply- 
ing the  needle  or  tambour  work  within. 

"  Kiss  your  hands,  sefioritas."  "  Shall  we  dance  this  even- 
ing ?"  Con  mucho  gusto!  cry  they  all  in  a  breath.  Aye!  the 
14 


314  CHAPTER  XXXVII. 

Graces  doubt  them  !  who  ever  knew  a  lithe  young  Creole  to  turn 
her  pretty  toes  away  from  whirling  waltz  .or  contra-danza. 
11  Where  shall  we  dance  ?"  At  Lola's,  or  Mariana's,  or  Ampara's 
— it  matters  not.  "But  the  music?"  Pshaw,  you  gringo  !  as 
if  those  well-fingered  old  harps  and  guitars  were  not  ready  tuned 
for  the  occasion,  and  the  old  night  owls  of  musicians  ever  watch- 
ful, playing  around  the  girls,  like  pilot  fishes  about  the  sharks. 
Vamanos  pues  !  The  well-known  faces  are  shortly  assembled 
in  a  neighbor's  dwelling  ;  the  listless,  indolent  air  of  morning  has 
gone — at  the  first  tinkle  of  the  harp,  eyes  are  sparkling  with  rap- 
ture, and  feet  patting  the  floor,  like  prisoned  birds,  only  awaiting 
the  harmonising  crash  of  the  little  orchestra  to  be  in  motion. 
Contra-danza  !  shrieks  the  old  leader.  Two  lines  are  formed — 
swinging  gracefully  to  and  fro,  figures  are  changing,  hands  clasp- 
ing and  thrilling,  arms  are  twining  and  winding,  until  the  different 
bands  are  wound  into  beautiful  and  panting  groups,  when  the 
music  pauses  a  moment — hands  fall,  and  to  be  convinced  that  our 
angelic  partners  have  not  wings,  each  seizes  his  fair  companion 
around  the  waist,  and  away  we  spin  in  the  waltz. 

In  return  for  the  nightly  tertulias  on  shore,  we  gave  them  a 
little  ball  on  board  the  frigate — the  quarter-deck  was  gaily  dress- 
ed and  bedizzened  with  parti-colored  bunting,  flags,  chandeliers 
of  bayonets  and  other  nautical  ornaments  ;  but  in  the  absence  of 
any  marketable  matter,  the  supper-table  below  presented  more 
variegated  hues  than  the  ball  room  itself;  being  all  lights,  glass,  fan- 
cifully carved  melons  and  dulces.  However,  they  had  capital  mu- 
sic by  the  German  Confederation,  led  by  Peter  the  Greek — danc- 
ing until  midnight — the  old  ladies  were  allowed  to  puff  cigarilloa 
on  the  quarter-deck,  and  all  went  away  apparently  highly  de- 
lighted. 


PIC-NIC  AT  LA  PAZ.  315 


When  becoming  a  little  ennuied  with  these  light  pleasures,  we 
made  boating  expeditions,  and  afterwards  returned  to  them  with 
renewed  zest.  Once  on  the  glorious  anniversary  of  Yankee 
Independence,  we  made  the  lease  of  a  jolly  boat.  It  was  a 
capacious,  portly  and  staunch  receptacle  of  marine  locomotion, 
generally  used  for  big  market  baskets,  beef, '  vegetables,  and 
at  times  to  transport  drunken  sailors.  Our  party  was  select 
and  companionable ;  the  General,  Luigi,  Canova,  Speckles,  Ma- 
garrabin,  Earl  and  myself — a  tambourine  and  fiddle,  with  each  a 
nigger  accompaniment,  both  combining  with  music  a  taste  for  cook- 
ing. We  had  fishing  lines  and  fowling  pieces,  which  last  were 
voted  bores  and  forthwith  ordered  to  be  discharged,  and  kept  so 
during  the  cruise  ;  then  there  was  plenty  of  malt  and  sherry,  a  huge 
jug  of  punch  after  the  ancient  Romans,  a  comfortable  chowder 
kettle  and  bag  of  biscuits.  We  were  up  betimes,  and  as  the  first 
ruffle  of  the  sea  breeze  disturbed  the  quiet  surface  of  the  bay,  we 
pushed  off  from  the  ship. 

Here  let  me  apostrophise  !  I  hate  ships,  I  hate  boats,  I  hate 
everything  that  floats  !  even  more  than  I  detest  poor  people  ;  but 
at  times  they  are  all  endurable,  and  marine  misanthropic  as  I 
am,  once  in  a  great  while  I  become  reconciled ;  but  should  I  ever 
have  a  son,  and  should  ships  exist  and  not  merge  into  balloons, 
and  he  wish  to  become  notorious  for  filial  piety  by  reading  the 
book  his  sire  wrote — and  be  thus  imbued  with  that  parent's  ideas 
and  prejudices — I  beseech  him  never  to  trust  his  precious  toes 
with  only  half  an  inch  of  plank  betwixt  them  and  the  briny 
deep.  But  providing  he  should  be  so  fortunate  as  to  fall  into  a 
roomy  bowl  of  a  boat,  like  to  our  jolly,  then  after  selecting  the 
smoothest,  shallowest  of  water,  the  gentlest  of  breezes,  and 
flimsiest  of  sails,  that  will  fly  out  of  their  bindings  at  the  first 


316  CHAPTER  XXXVII. 


puff  of  wind — armed  with  a  broad  sombrero,  summerly  jacket 
and  trowsers,  let  him  recline  pleasantly  on  the  seats,  with  a  leg 
and  arm  thrown  over  the  side,  trailing  in  the  rippling  current 
— if  there  be  the  slightest  suspicion  of  a  shark,  don't  do  it — then 
I  say,  let  him  lounge  and  doze  as  we  did,  as  our  richly  freighted 
argosie  calmly  turned  the  native  element  from  her  prow,  and 
proceeded  majestically  up  the  inner  bay. 

We  had  a  ten  miles  voyage,  pausing  occasionally  to  cast  out 
the  lines,  temptingly  baited  by  choice  bits  of  meat,  whereby  were 
hooked  great  numbers  of  horned  fishes  of  the  feline  specie^,  com-  . 
monly  called  cats,  which  served  to  divert  our  leisure  moments 
until  the  cooks  pronounced  the  market  glutted,  and  we  accord- 
ingly drew  in  the  hooks,  and  again  steered  lazily  towards  our  des- 
tination. It  may  have  been  an  hour  past  meridian  when  the  keel 
grated  softly  on  the  strand.  We  had  chosen  a  little  jutting  sandy 
point,  where  the  wind  made  a  cat's  paw  of  us,  and  came  fawning 
and  eddying  around  in  the  coolest  manner  imaginable.  Days  are 
ever  the  same  ia  La  Paz — there  had  not  been  a  sprinkle  of  rain 
for  a  century,  so  we  had  naught  to  fear  but  the  clear  bright  glare 
of  the  sun,  which  poured  down  light  and  heat  on  the  arid  moun- 
tains and  glassy  sheet  of  water,  from  which,  like  a  polished  mirror 
of  silver,  it  was  reflected  back  again. 

On  the  little  promontory  there  chanced  to  be  a  stunted  olive, 
and  it  was  but  a  minute's  labor  to  cut  away  the  lower  branches, 
clothe  the  umbrella-shaped  top  with  a  boat's  sail,  spread  mats 
and  awnings  beneath,  build  a  temporary  fire-place  near  by,  and 
then  repose  happily  in  the  shade,  with  cigars  in  full  blast,  and 
supervise  the  interesting  process  of  cleaning  fish,  by  the  sailors, 
whilst  the  negro  minstrels  charmed  us  with  falsetto  ballads,  or 
highly-complicated  jigs. 


THE  CAREER A.  317 


We  had  narratives  of  adventure,  accounts  of  previous  fourths 
of  July,  and  anecdotes  of  distinguished  naval  heroes,  which  last,  I 
ain  sorry  to  say,  as  a  general  rule,  are  not  complimentary — a  pint 
of  ale  and  a  bite  of  luncheon.  Then  after  multitudes  of  specula- 
tions upon  the  merits  of  the  embryo  chowder,  and  many  direful 
threats  and  disrespectful  allusions  to  the  shins  and  pedigree  of 
our  sable  cooks,  in  case  the  mess  should  prove  a  failure — gradu- 
ally one  by  one  we  fell  off  into  siesta. 

San  Antonio,  or  that  great  fisherman,  Sam  Jones  himself,  only 
knows  how  long  we  remained  in  this  happy  state  of  insensibility, 
or  how  long  the  fishes,  potatoes  and  chillis  had  been  bubbling  in 
the  cauldron,  or  how  often  the  jolly's  crew  had  applied  their  lips 
to  the  punch  jug — if  I  might  be  allowed  to  conjecture,  possibly 
very  often  ;  nevertheless,  we  were  all  startled  by  a  doleful  yell 
from  Mr.  Speckles,  who  at  the  same  time  expressed  his  opinion 
in  emphatic  language,  that  the  larger  portion  of  the  infernal 
regions  "  had  broke  loose."  Appearances  certainly  favored  the 
conviction,  for  within  a  few  yards  there  came  tearing  along  the 
beach  a  drove  of  bullocks,  scattering  the  sand  in  clouds,  besides 
having  a  very  unpleasant  expression  about  their  horns.  We  im- 
mediately vacated  the  front  seats,  and  rolled  away  into  the  inte- 
rior of  the  branch-built  castle,  leaving  no  impediment  in  the  path 
of  our  enraged  visitors.  We  emerged  again  as  they  went  by,  and 
in  the  words  of  the  Archbishop  of  Granada  to  Gil  Bias,  wished 
them  "  all  manner  of  prosperity  and  a  little  more  taste."  The  cause 
of  this  stampede  was  soon  explained  by  the  advent  of  a  youthful 
vacuero,  who  stopped  to  observe  us.  The  General  very  dextrously 
hitched  a  boat  hook  on  to  the  waistband  of  his  leather  breeks,  whilst 
some  one  else  with  equal  skill,  applied  a  like  implement  to  the  bit 
ringbolt  of  his  bridle,  and  thus,  as  it  were,  brought  him  up  all 


318  CHAPTER  XXXVII. 


standing:  Scnor  quoth  we,  "you  behold  the  rightful  con- 
quistadores  of  California,  the  enormity  of  your  crime,  in  driving 
wild  beasts  *thro  ugh  a  cavalier's  house  and  furniture,  renders  you 
liable  to  fine  and  imprisonment,  therefore  we  desire  you  to  dis- 
mount," whereupon,  making  vigorous  resistance,  we  assisted  him 
to  alight  by  the  aid  of  the  boat  hook. 

Now,  being  supplied  with  a  horse,  we  instantly  made  up  a 
purse  for  a  carrera — sweepstakes  for  all  runners.  But  two  com- 
petitors entered — Canova  and  Earl.  The  rest  of  the  party  held 
the  bets  and  bottles,  and  constituted  themselves  judges.  Mr. 
Earl  took  the  nag,  and  Canova  to  his  heels.  The  course  was 
stepped  fifty  yards,  the  day  being  warm.  They  got  away  cleverly 
together,  although  the  first  twenty  yards  the  former  tried  to 
jockey  by  crowding  his  antagonist  into  the  water  !  At  the  turn- 
ing-stone the  cavallo  was  ahead,  and  if  he  could  have  been  turned 
at  that  precise  moment,  the  game  would  have  been  up ;  but 
every  one  knows  how  difficult  it  is  for  one  unaccustomed  to  the 
business  to  pull  a  horse  short  up  at  his  speed,  and,  consequently, 
the  animal  went  still  farther  ahead,  and  when  suddenly  checked, 
pitched  the  rider  to  the  ears  several  times  before  he  could  be 
made  to  gather  fresh  way  on  the  other  tack.  At  this  period  of 
the  action,  Canova  was  making  long  strides,  and  came  in  winner, 
after  a  hotly-contested  race  of  two  minutes.  Rewarding  the 
vacuero  with  a  ship's  biscuit,  we  graciously  permitted  him  to 
depart  on  his  steed. 

The  chowder  was  done  to  a  charm — smelled  and  tasted 
nicely — neither  over  done  nor  underdone,  nor  too  much  c/^7/i,nor 
too  dry,  nor  too  cold  ;  and  not  being  afflicted  with  indigestion, 
we  did  full  justice  to  the  feast,  and  attacked  the  big  pot  unceas- 
ingly, whose  capacious  interior  did  not  shrink  from  the  encounter. 


THE  FOURTH  OF  JULY.  319 


Still  there  is  an  end  to  all  things,  and  there  was,  after  a  great 
while,  to  our  appetites ;  so  we  sighed  deeply,  and  drained  the 
cups  to  the  memory  of  '76,  and  other  republican  sentiments  of 
patriotic  tendency. 

As  the  shades  of  evening  began  to  fall,  we  walked  into  the 
water  and  had  a  delicious  bath.  The  old  jolly  was  then  gotten 
ready,  and  as  the  last  rays  of  the  setting  sun  flashed  behind  the 
western  hills,  we  pushed  from  the  strand,  and  gave  three  cheers 
in  commemoration  of  our  marine  pic-nic.  The  light  land  wind 
wafted  our  bark  slowly  down  the  bay — the  large  lug  sail  swelled 
sluggishly  over  the  gunwale,  sound  asleep.  The  crew  were  doubled 
up  on  the  thawts,  sound  asleep  also ;  and  our  own  coterie,  while 
listening  to  a  narrative  by  Magarrabin,  one  by  one  dropt  into 
slumber,  and  there  was  no  one  awake  save  the  helmsman.  I 
was  comfortably  esconced  on  the  low  grating,  and  on  awaking 
the  "  pale  night  stars  in  millions  bespangled  heaven's  pavilions." 
The  breeze  had  freshened,  and  the  water  was  seething  and  hiss- 
ing under  the  cut-water.  "  Hillo  !  coxswain,  where  are  we  ?  near 
the  ship,  ehr"  "  Sir,"  said  Fagan  solemnly,  "we  have  not 
budged  an  inch  these  two  hours — it  's  strong  flood."  True 
enough  we  had  been  sailing  in  an  aquatic  treadmill,  going  through 
all  the  motions,  without  getting  ahead.  Pending  these  reflec- 
tions Luigi  came  forward,  and  peering  through  the  gloom  to  have 
a  glimpse  at  the  surrounding  scenery — for  he  was  near-sighted — 
accidcntly  lost  his  foothold,  and  popped  overboard.  I  caught 
him  by  the  toe  of  his  boot,  and  assisted  by  the  brawny  arms  of 
a  stout  Dutchlander,  who,  reaching  down,  seized  our  friend  Luigi 
by  the  head,  and  letting  go  his  heels,  he  righted,  and  was 
hauled  on  boaM. 

The  oars  were  now  called  to  account,  and  without  any  further 


320  CHAPTER  XXXVII. 

episode,  sometime  during  the  night  we  crept  sedately  up  the 
frigate's  side,  descended  to  our  several  dormitories,  and  sank 
peacefully  to  rest.  This  was  the  way  we  passed  the  glorious  anni- 
versary, thousands  of  leagues  away  from  our  homes  and  country. 

A  few  days  afterwards,  in  one  of  the  frigate's  large  cutters  we 
departed  on  an  excursion  of  longer  duration,  for  the  Pearl  Fish- 
eries. We  sailed  late  in  the  afternoon  for  the  Island  of  San 
Jose.  It  stands  like  a  sentinel  at  the  mouth  of  the  great  bay, 
almost  forty  miles  from  the  usual  anchorage  of  La  Paz.  With  a 
fresh  and  fair  wind,  just  as  day  was  dawning,  we  rounded  an 
elbow-shaped  reef,  and  let  run  the  little  anchor,  near  the  shore. 
At  sunrise  a  portion  of  the1  crew  were  landed  on  the  beach,  and 
under  the  shady  lee  of  a  rocky  bluff,  tents  were  pitched,  and  all 
the  necessary  arrangements  for  an  encampment  promptly  made. 

From  the  first  discovery  of  the  peninsula,  in  the  sixteenth 
century,  by  Hernando  de  Grijalva,  the  shores  of  the  gulf  have 
been  famous  for  their  valuable  pearls.  Many  of  the  inlets  and 
bays  were  then  resorted  to,  and  continued  to  yield  large  quan- 
tities for  more  than  two  hundred  years  ;  but  from  the  beginning 
of  the  present  century  the  trade  has  gradually  fallen  off,  and  at 
the  breaking  out  of  the  war  with  the  United  States,  there  were 
but  two  small  craft  employed  in  the  fisheries.  Still  there  is  no 
doubt  that  the  pearl  oyster  abounds  in  immense  quantities,  and 
were  the  ground  properly  explored,  the  labor  would  be  attended 
with  profit ;  but  the  natural  indolence  of  the  natives  throws  a 
wet  blanket  upon  everything  like  industry  or  enterprise,  and  as  a 
consequence  these  submarine  mines  hide  their  beautiful  treasures 
from  view. 

In  the  harbor  we  visited  there  were  a  number  of  squalid 
Indians,  fanned  out  by  some  more  sagacious  armador,  or  patron, 


PEA3L  FISHING.  321 


who  provided  them  with  jerked  beef  and  paper  cigars,  in  ex- 
change for  rare  sheik  or  pearls. 

The  season  is  chosen  during  the  prevalence  of  calms  and  light 
winds,  so  that  the  water  be  not  disturbed  during  the  operations  ; 
for  they 

"  Dare  not  dire 
For  pearls,  but  when  the  sea's  at  rest." 

We  had  three  buzos,  or  divers  of  great  celebrity,  but  in  the  end 
we  were  not  so  highly  impressed  with  their  skill. 

The  manner  of  conducting  the  performance  is  a  very  simple 
one.  The  boat  is  slowly  urged  over  the  calm  water — perfectly 
clear  and  transparent  it  is,  owing  to  the  white  sandy  bottom. 
The  luzos  stand  in  succession  on  the  prow,  each  provided  with  a 
short  sharp  stick  to  dislodge  the  shells,  whilst  another  with 
shaded  eyes  close  to  the  surface,  peers  down  into  the  pure  blue 
depths,  and  marks  the  object  of  their  search,  or  warns  them  of 
the  appearance  of  the  tintero — a  ravenous  species  of  shark. 
Mir  a !  says  the  look-out  man,  pointing  with  his  stick.  Splash  ! 
down  plunges  the  swarthy  figure.  You  soe  him  squirming  and 
groping  on  the  bottom,  reflected  in  the  mirage-like  fluid,  when 
presently  he  shoots  to  the  surface,  in  one  hand  holding  the  prize, 
which  is  tossed  into  the  boat.  Hay  mas  ! — there's  more ! — he  ex- 
claims, takes  a  long  respiration,  and  again  sinks — this  time  reversing 
his  heels,  after  getting  under  water.  Two  or  three  feats  of  the 
kind,  and  he  gives  place  to  a  fresh  buzo.  The  depth  ranged  from 
twenty  to  thirty-five  feet,  and  they  remained  below  about  a  minute. 

One  would  naturally  suppose  that  the  oldest  oysters,  like  heads 
of  families,  out  of  the  sea  would  adorn  themselves  with  the  cost- 
liest jewels,  but  the  system  is  quite  the  reverse.  The  venerable 
14* 


322  CHAPTER    XXXVII. 


shells  are  contented  with  little,  valueless  seeds,  and  the  princely 
peas  of  pearls  are  distributed  among  the  juveniles.  This  is  inva- 
riably the  case,  and  the  rarest  gems  are  always  found  in  the 
smallest  and  youngest  oysters ;  nor  are  they  worn,  as  with  mor- 
tals, in  the  ears,  for  we  ever  discovered  them,  after  much  scrutiny, 
carefully  secreted  in  their  beards  ! 

After  shelling  and  fishing  until  the  sea  breeze  agitated  the 
Inlet,  and  put  an  end  to  the  morning's  sport,  we  disembarked, 
and  did  full  justice  to  the  excellent  fare  of  one  Seilor  Eloi,  who 
had  kindly  attended  the  party  in  capacity  of  major  domo,  keeping 
a  watchful  eye,  moreover,  on  vicious  persons  inclined  to  filch  an 
over  allowance  of  grapes,  or  unconsciously  to  swallow  an-  entire 
bottle  of  porter,  which,  by  the  way,  is  an  unpardonable  crime 
on  aquatic  recreations  like  the  present. 

Towards  evening,  refreshed  by  siesta  and  bath,  we  shouldered 
rifles  for  the  chase.  I  returned  very  soon,  satisfied  with  stump- 
ing along  the  beach,  where  were  strewn  hundreds  of  thousands 
of  polypii,  or  squids,  with  large  black  eyes  like  human  beings, 
their  putrefying  jelly-like  carcasses  filling  the  air  with  a  hor- 
rible stench  ;  after  a  sweltering  tramp  over  the  dry,  parched 
ravines  and  hills  of  the  island,  which  were  thickly  covered  with 
scrub  cactus,  having  thorns  nearly  as  long  as  bayonets,  and  very 
much  sharper,  as  I  found  to  the  damage  of  my  legs  and  trousers. 
I  saw  nothing  within  range  of  a  bullet,  and  was  altogether  toler- 
ably disgusted,  and  glad  to  get  once  more  within  shelter  of  the 
tents.  My  companions  were  more  fortunate — they  started  num- 
bers of  deer — were  far  more  fatigued  from  their  tramp,  and  returned 
quite  as  empty  handed. 

Game  is  said  to  be  very  abundant  on  the  Peninsula,  but  I  can 
hardly  believe  the  nature  of  the  country  admits  of  it.  We  had 


GAME  IN  LOWER  CALIFORNIA.  323 


venison  occasionally,  of  indifferent  quality,  flavored  with  the 
flowers  and  shoots  of  the  aloes,  upon  which  the  deer  can 
only  find  nourishment.  On  the  opposite  shores  of  the  Gulf,  hi 
the  Tierra  Caliente,  between  San  Bias  and  Mazatlan,  I  occasion- 
ally saw  a  few  deer,  stray  coveys  of  quails,  chichilacas,  wild  ducks 
and  turkeys ;  but  even  on  the  upper  terraces  of  the  interior,  I 
met  with  only  a  large  species  of  hares  ;  and  I  am  confident  the 
whole  country  can  boar  no  comparison  to  the  worst  regions  for 
game  in  Upper  California. 

My  friend,  Don  Guillermo,  in  Mazatlan,  who  was  a  great 
hunter,  told  me  a  curious  fact  relating  to  the  Coyote,  who,  on 
spying  a  wild  turkey  on  the  lofty  branch  of  a  tree — after  a  wary 
approach — fixes  his  eye  upon  the  bird,  and  commences  a  revolving 
promenade,  never  for  an  instant  removing  his  fascinating  gaze 
from  the  devoted  prey.  The  poor  turkey,  anxious  to  observe  the 
perambulations  of  his  friend  below,  follows  him  with  eye  and 
neck,  until  becoming  too  dizzy  to  maintain  the  perch,  when  down 
he  falls  into  the  cunning  wolf's  clutches  ! 

We  made  a  hearty  supper,  and  then  sat  down  to  an  old 
fashioned  rubber  of  whist — the  bets  were  glasses  of  toddy. 
"  Steward,"  shouts  Monsieur  Borodino,  who  had  won  a  stake, 
and  nearly  drank  half  of  it,  "  Steward,  it's  too  strong!"  Si 
Senor^  said  the  attentive  domestic,  and  forthwith  gave  it  a  dash 
from  a  dark-colored  liquid,  which  was  not  water.  "  Ah  !  Eloi," 
murmurs,  sotto  wee,  another  young  gentleman  in  delicate  health, 
"  Have  my  flask  filled,  eh  ?  Want  it  for  stimulant,  in  case  we 
should  fall  short !"  This  caused  a  pronunciamento,  and  being 
somewhat  fatigued  with  our  day's  work,  we  made  a  smoke  to 
drive  away  mosquitoes,  rolled  ourselves  up  in  blankets,  and  sought 
repose  on  the  yielding  sand. 


324  CHAPTER  XXXVII. 


The  following  morning  we  were  early  astir — diving,  fishing, 
and  hunting.  Being  unsuccessful,  however,  after  breakfast  it  was 
decided  to  leave  our  haven  in  San  Jose,  and  try  the  fortune  else- 
where. 

At  noon  the  tents  were  again  metamorphosed  into  sails,  and 
away  we  steered,  in  an  easterly  direction,  across  the  broad  strait 
which  opens  into  the  bay.  The  first  hours  of  the  voyage  were 
fair  and  tranquil,  but  with  the  declining  sun  the  wind  arose  from 
the  gulf  and  began  blowing  with  great  violence.  The  straining 
canvas  was  reefed  down,  and  curtailed  of  its  fair  proportions,  and 
by  the  assistance  of  the  buzos'  eyes  we  were  piloted  into  a  narrow, 
alcove-like  nook,  of  the  Island  of  San  Antonio.  Then  the  dimity 
was  all  furled,  and  with  the  ashen  sails  we  strove  might  and 
main  to  get  beneath  the  high  cliffs  of  the  little  port.  Dios !  how 
furiously  the  gusts  came  sweeping  down  the  steep  gorge,  brushing 
the  stout  oars  like  feathers  alongside  the  boat ;  then  a  renewed 
struggle,  only  to  be  blown  from  the  course,  and  the  water  torn 
into  foam,  and  dashed  over  us.  We  began  to  despair  of  getting 
on  shore,  although  the  strand  was  nearly  within  arm's  length,  for 
the  gale  blew  with  such  unremitting  violence  as  to  defy  our  efforts. 
However,  thanks  to  San  Antonio,  there  came  a  transient  lull,  and 
the  pilots  were  enabled  to  fasten  a  strong  cable  to  the  rocks. 
It  was  somewhere  in  this  bay  where  the  great  Cortes  became 
tossed  about  in  his  crazy  bark — perchance  it  may  have  been 
the  haven  we  had  sought — and  in  gratitude  for  our  escape, 
we  voted  a  candle  to  the  Virgin.  • 

We  found  ourselves  shut  up  in  a  slender  canal,  walled  by  pre- 
cipitous masses  of  granitic  rocks,  hundreds  of  feet  above  us,  and 
the  channel  terminated  by  fifty  yards  of  smooth,  pebbly  beach. 
The  fires  were  soon  blazing  merrily,  and  after  a  hasty  supper,  we 


AN  ORIGINAL  CASTLE.  335 

stretched  ourselves  on  the  clean  sand,  and  in  sleep,  forgot  our 
escape  from  boatwrcck. 

The  morning  came  bright  and  chesrful,  with  not  enough  wind 
to  roughen  the  quiet  surface  of  the  little  haven.  We  were 
amused  paddling  among  caverns  and  grottos  of  the  cliffs  for  an 
hour,  and  then  once  more  stepping  on  board  the  cutter,  we  soon 
lost  sight  of  our  harbor  of  refuge. 

Coasting  along  the  island  we  passed  a  number  of  these  narrow 
indentations,  protected  like  spaces  between  one's  fingers.  At  one 
of  them  we  threw  out  a  grapnell,  and  the  divers  collected 
upwards  of  an  hundred  pearl  oysters  within  the  hour  ;  beyond  we 
selected  a  cool  retreat,  beneath  overhanging  ledges  of  rock,  where 
we  proposed  dining.  Our  position  was  exceedingly  novel  and 
curious.  The  finger-like  promontory  lifted  its  crest  perpen- 
dicularly from  the  bay ;  the  base  of  the  cliff  was  composed  of  a 
thick  and  variegated  strata  of  black  pudding-stone,  worn  into 
lateral  curves  and  arches,  upon  which  rested  the  great  body  of 
the  cliff,  which  appeared  formed  of  red  sand-stone,  having  one 
side  scooped  and  scolloped  into  profiles  upon  profiles — hideous 
caricatures  and  contortions,  letters  and  numerals,  while  on 
the  face,  looking  towards  the  inlet,  and  immediately  over  our 
dining-hall,  was  cut  a  well-defined  gallery,  leading  from  turret  to 
turret,  the  whole  closed  by  a  most  artificial-looking  tower  and 
battlement !  We  had  to  gaze  a  long  while,  before  convinced  that 
the  elements  themselves  had  been  the  sole  architects. 

The  same  evening  we  sailed  over  to  the  mainland,  took  another 
night  bivouac  on  the  sandy  shore,  arose  with  the  sun,  beat 
through  the  Harbor  of  Pichilingue,  and  hi  the  afternoon  reached 
our  floating  home  in  the  frigate. 


CHAPTER    XXXVIII. 

LONG  before  the  arrival  of  the  squadron  in  La  Paz,  the  natives 
of  Lower  California  had  been  awaiting  with  the  extrernest  solici- 
tude the  negociations  prior  to  the  final  ratification  of  peace.  The 
treaty  arrived— their  anxiety  and  doubts  were  soon  over.  They 
learned  with  amazement,  that  notwithstanding  the  positive  assur- 
ances held  out  by  the  United  States  Government,  that  "  the  flag 
of  the  United  States  would  for  ever  wave,  and  be  unalterably 
planted  over  the  Californias,"  and  that  under  no  possible  con- 
tingency could  the  U.  S.  ever  give  up  or  abandon  the  possession 
of  the  Californias,  as  conveyed  through  the  official  proclamations 
of  the  Naval  Commanders  on  the  coast,  they  had  been  duped, 
with  these  texts  for  their  support — to  defend  our  citizens  and 
to  fight  under  our  colors,  at  the  loss  of  standing,  property, 
and  life  itself,  and  afterwards  were  to  be  taught  a  commentary 
upon  the  good  faith  of  our  Government.  In  the  Treaty  of 
Peace,  Lower  California  was  not  alluded  to,  nor  even  protection 
of  the  Peninsula  glanced  at.  Thus  they  reaped  the  fruits  of 
their  too  easy  credulity,  and  were  about  to  pay  the  penalty  in 
again  becoming  shuffled  off  to  Mexican  authority,  and  suffer  the 
endless  private  and  political  persecutions  attending  their  apostacy 
from  the  parent  stock. 

It  was  assuredly  a  hard  case — for  our  Government  had  been 


WE  LEAVE  MEXICO.  327 

solely  to  blame  Instead  of  leaving  the  Peninsula  in  a  state  of 
neutrality,  as  it  was,  in  effect,  so  far  removed  from  the  mother 
country  as  to  be  thought  unworthy  of  notice,  we  busied  ourselves 
fomenting  disturbances  and  planting  military  posts  until  the 
major  part  of  the  respectable  inhabitants  of  the  territory  became 
compromised,  by  espousing  our  quarrel. 

All  were  eager  to  leave  for  the  upper  territory,  but  an  entire 
emigration  was  out  of  the  question.  Many  of  the  poorer  classes, 
with  numerous  families,  could  not  forsake  their  land,  or  little 
property,  without  any  certain  means  for  future  subsistence  ;  but 
those  who  could  leave  were  quickly  preparing  to  avail  themselves 
of  the  opportunities  afforded  by  our  ships  of  war  and  transports 
for  a  new  and  distant  home. 

We  remained  nearly  a  month  at  La  Paz.  The  only  incidents 
worth  noticing  had  been  the  trivial  affair  of  a  volunteer  on  shore 
very  coolly  shooting  his  wife  to  death ;  and  a  piece  of  Sam 
Patchism  of  one  of  the  ship's  boys,  who,  while  climbing  up  the 
fore  royal-mast  head,  and  within  grasp  of  the  truck,  became 
exhausted  and  fell,  pitching  heels  over  head  through  the  air, 
tossing  from  brace  to  brace,  until  he  finally  struck  the  awning, 
bounded  up,  and  fell  again  motionless — the  stout  canvas  of  the 
main  deck  awning  having  saved  him.  I  was  an  eye  witness  to  this 
performance  ;  the  next  day  he  was  again  on  his  feet,  mischievous 
as  ever  ;  but  a  .plunge  of  near  two  hundred  feet,  without  serious 
injury,  would  not  be  generally  credited. 

One  morning,  the  boatswains  whistled,  the  cables  rattled,  ship 
unmoored,  sails  spread ;  and  as  we  slowly  took  the  direction  of 
the  sea,  and  left  the  "  Ohio"  astern,  down  came,  for  the  third 
time,  our  red  pennant  and  up  went  the  blue.  We  had  bid  adieu 


328  CHAPTER  XXXVIII. 

to  Commodores,  squadrons,  and  signals,  and  were  henceforth  to 
cruize  in  a  little  fleet  of  our  own. 

We  were  bound  on  a  flying  visit  to  Mazatlan,  and,  after  a 
tedious  passage,  on  the  fifth  day,  Cresten  reared  his  castor  above 
the  sea,  and  the  white  town  and  red  mountains  of  the  interior 
became  again  visible.  The  hills  and  plains  were  looking  fresh 
and  green  from  recent  rains,  but  the  town  was  nearly  deserted, 
and  not  a  vestige  of  life  or  bustle  was  to  be  seen. 

Negrete  with  his  officials  were  no  sooner  warm  in  their  nests, 
when  one  Palacios  collected  a  number  of  discontented  followers, 
entered  the  city,  occupied  the  Cuartel,  and  summarily  ejected 
Anaya's  friends.  They  declared  a  more  liberal  policy  than  the 
government  party,  abolished  the  alcobola,  reduced  duties,  and 
agitated  a  measure  of  forming  Cinaloa  as  part  of  a  Republic,  in 
conjunction  with  the  States  of  Jalisco  and  Sonora.  These  fragile 
schemes  did  not  meet  the  sanction  of  the  reflecting  portion  of 
the  community,  and  the  foreign  merchants  were  particularly  dis- 
gusted, fearing,  as  usual  during  these  pronunciamcntos,  some 
forcible  extortion  from  the  Palacios,  upon  refusing  to  advance 
money. 

Anaya  himself,  with  a  small  force,  and  means  insufficient  to 
put  down  the  opposing  faction,  occupied  the  Presidio.  Our  old 
friends  welcomed  us  kindly,  and  many  believed  we  had  returned 
to  re-occupy  the  town  ;  and  even  though  the  different  consuls  and 
foreign  residents  tried  their  utmost  to  detain  us,  it  was  unavailing, 
and  the  day  succeeding  our  arrival  the  canvas  overshadowed  the 
frigate,  and  we  said  adieu,  for  the  last  time,  to  Mazatlan. 


CHAPTER  XXXIX 

FOR  twenty  days  after  sailing  from  the  Mexican  coast,  the 
steady  trade-wind  drove  the  frigate  merrily  over  the  blue  water, 
until  one  evening  we  found  ourselves,  with  wings  furled  and 
anchors  down,  within  shelter  of  the  reefs  and  hills  of  the  Bay  of 
Hilo. 

Near  us  nestled  an  enchanting  little  village,  with  straw  huts 
and  cottages,  half  hidden  beneath  a  perfect  forest  of  flowers, 
banana,  bread  fruit,  and  coflee  trees,  with  here  and  there  thick 
clusters  of  cocoanuts  shooting  high  in  the  air,  like  petals  from 
the  brilliant  parterres  at  their  feet,  waving  rattling  leaves  and 
trunks  in  a  very  indolent  and  graceful  style  peculiarly  their  own. 
Then  the  deep,  velvety  verdure  around  gradually  rose  in  green 
slopes,  and  receded  far  away  in  the  distance,  until  the  scene  was 
closed  by  the  "  twin  giants  of  the  Pacific,"  Mauna  Kea  and 
Mauna  Loa.  Nearer,  along  the  fertile  shores  were  white  rills 
leaping  into  the  sea,  groups  of  natives  upon  the  beach,  and  the 
little  bay  alive  with  slender  and  reed-like  canoes,  skimming  like 
a  breath  over  the  water,  the  broad  paddles  flashing  in  the  sun, 
tempting  tropical  fruits,  reposing  dewily  in  leafy  baskets,  the 
natives  themselves  gesticulating  and  chattering  with  amazing  volu- 
bility, which  added  to  the  bright,  fresh,  novel,  and  glorious 


330  CHAPTER  XXXIX. 


scenery  of  the  island,  made  a  pleasing  contrast  to  the  parched 
Sierras  and  Tierra  Caliente  of  Mexico. 

The  day  subsequent  to  our  arrival  'chanced  to  be  Sunday,  and, 
soon  after  breakfast,  we  pulled  on  shore.  There  was  no  reason 
for  disappointment  in  a  closer  view  of  the  village.  The  richest 
and  densest  tropical  foliage  shaded,  and  almost  impeded  the  path- 
ways. Native  huts,  with  bleached  thatching,  and  pretty  cottages 
of  the  missionaries,  were  peeping  from  amid  the  groves.  Streams 
of  pure  water  were  murmuring  in  every  direction,  and  the  cool 
trade-wind  was  blowing  breezily  through  the  branches  of  the 
trees.  Altogether,  the  effect  was  quite  exhilarating. 

Large  numbers  of  copper-hued  natives,  dressed  in  their  gayest 
colors,  were  waiting  to  receive  us,  and,  stepping  on  shore,  I 
resigned  myself  with  great  docility  to  the  guidance  of  a  stout 
person,  who,  tapping  an  embroidered  crown  on  the  sleeve  of  his 
coat,  with  a  short  baton,  informed  me,  with  an  expressive  nod, 
that  he  was  kaiko — king's  man — in  other  words,  a  guardian  of  the 
peace. 

A  few  minutes'  walk  brought  us  to  an  immense  thatched  build- 
ing, which  was  the  native  church.  On  entering,  we  were  politely 
shown  places,  and  I  was  fortunate  in  getting  a  seat  immediately 
fronting  the  preacher,  and  facing  the  congregation.  There  were, 
at  the  lowest,  a  thousand  present,  ranged  on  plain  wooden  benches, 
all  over  the  vast  earth  floor  of  the  meeting-house,  and  crowds  more 
were  pouring  in  from  the  different  doorways :  ancient  matrons,  in 
dazzling  calico  frocks,  cut  very  high  in  the  neck,  and  very  low  at 
the  heels,  unconfined  by  belt  or  bodice,  wearing  coal-scuttle 
bonnets — sometimes  two — toppling  very  much  in  front — giving 
a  general  idea  of  having  been  put  on  wrong  end  foremost :  young 
damsels  attired  in  gaily-colored  shawls  and  ribbons,  their  nether 


HILO  IN  BYRON'S  BAY  331 

limbs  encased  in  a  superabundance  of  hose,  and  strong  brogan 
shoes  :  venerable,  gentlemanly  katiakas,  in  tightly-fitting  trousers, 
unconscionably  short-waisted  coats,  with  swallow-tails :  others  again 
saved  from  appearing  in  puris  naturalibis  by  the  aid  of  a  tappa,  or 
flimsy  shirt,  about  the  loins.  But  they  were  a  sober,  orderly 
congregation,  and  with  the  exception  of  a  little  restlessness  amid 
the  juveniles,  all  listened  with  marked  attention  to  the  discourse 
of  their  pastor. 

The  Reverend  Mr.  Cohen  preached  to  them,  and  seemed  to 
adapt  the  sermon  to  their  comprehension  ;  occasionally,  how- 
ever, interrupted  by  some  elderly  person,  when  any  obscure  pas- 
sage was  not  rendered  sufficiently  clear,  whereupon  an  expla- 
nation always  followed,  in  the  most  urbane,  kindly  manner. 

The  dialect  is  exquisitely  soft  and  vowelly  ;  and  then  the  fre- 
quent repetition  of  many  words,  from  the  want  of  copiousness,  ren- 
ders it  susceptible  of  being  delivered  with  the  most  inconceivable 
rapidity.  We  had  singing  at  intervals  during  service  by  some 
fifty  youths  from  the  Reverend  Mr.  Lyman's  school.  I  judged  it 
rather  discordant,  and  although  the  voices  were  not  harsh,  nor 
unmusical,  there  was  yet  neither  taste  nor  harmony  in  their 
efforts.  After  church,  we  visited  the  comfortable,  pleasant  resi- 
dences of  the  missionaries — they  were  surrounded  by  well-culti- 
vated gardens  of  taro,  vegetables,  and  fruits.  The  inmates  we 
found  pious,  sensible,  and  excellent  persons,  who  had  devoted 
many  years  among  their  heathen  neighbors  in  philanthropic  diffu- 
sions of  the  Gospel. 

We  had  but  a  day  or  two  to  ramble  about  the  village  before  an 
expedition  was  planned  to  visit  the  volcano  of  Kilauea.  We 
were  indebted  to  the  good  offices  of  Mr.  Pitman  for  making  all 
preparations  for  the  journey.  Each  was  provided  with  a  kanaka 


332  CHAPTER  XXXIX. 


as  a  sort  of  body-servant  to  take  charge  of  extra  luggage  and 
wardrobe,  stowed  in  two  huge  calabashes,  with  the  half  of  other 
shells  laid  over  the  round  orifices  on  top,  which  effectually  shielded 
their  contents  from  the  weather  :  they  wore  then  slung  by  a  net 
work  of  bark  braid  to  each  end  of  a  short  pole,  like  a  pair  of 
scales,  over  the  swarthy  shoulders  of  our  valets.  There  were 
full  half-a-dozen  more  fitted  with  the  like  contrivances  filled  with 
edibles.  All  were  sent  off  at  daylight,  while  we  remained  to  a 
delightful  breakfast  of  fresh  water  fatted  mullets,  new  eggs,  and 
butter.  Horses  were  then  brought  forward,  and  attended  by  a 
guide,  we  moved  in  direction  of  the  south  end  of  the  island.  In 
an  hour  we  had  lost  sight  of  the  ocean,  left  the  pretty,  "  dim  o'er 
arching  groves"  of  Hilo,  and  struck  a  narrow  pathway  over  smooth 
undulating  masses  of  vitreous  lava,  just  as  it  lay  cooled  from  the 
lips  of  some  remote  boiling  crater,  whose  overlapping  iron  waves 
had  flowed  from  the  regions  above,  whilst  the  rankest  ferns  and 
vegetation  blocked  the  route,  creeping  and  extending  as  far  as 
the  eye  could  span  up  the  gradual  slopes  of  the  mountains.  It 
was  certainly  a  dull,  uninteresting  landscape.  We  pushed  our  way 
through  these  green  fibrous  barriers,  with  nothing  to  diversify  the 
monotony,  save  the  course  through  a  dismal  forest  of  ragged 
trees,  laced  and  covered  with  impenetrable  thickets  of  vines  and 
parasitical  plants,  only  relieved  by  the  pale  green  of  the  candle 
nut  and  mighty  leaves  of  an  occasional  banana  tree ;  meeting, 
perhaps,  at  every  dreary  league  with  a  filthy,  ill-constructed 
native  hut,  filled  with  yet  filthier  occupants.  From  nearly  every 
habitation  we  had  a  volunteer  or  two  in  our  train,  so  that, 
in  the  afternoon,  when  we  reached  what  is  called  the  half-wa/ 
house,  there  were  enough  followers  for  an  Indian  army. 

Our  halting  place  was  a  well-built  thatched  dwelling,  planted 


ROUTE  TO  KILAUEA.  333 

on  a  little  mound  of  lava,  and  fenced  in  by  a  living  hedge  of  ti, 
whose  bare  stems  rose  four  feet  from  the  ground,  and  then 
branched  out  in  spreading  leaves,  like  plumes.  Inside  the  build- 
ing was  a  raised  platform,  running  the  entire  length  of  the  room, 
resembling  the  pleasant  structures  used  as  beds  by  soldiers  in 
guard-rooms.  Clean  mats  and  pillows  were  strewn  upon  it,  and 
the  remaining  space  of  the  apartment  was  plentifully  provided  with 
tables,  chairs,  and  crockery ;  the  whole  being  especially  tabooed, 
and  guarded  by  a  native  chief  for  the  accommodation  of  tourists. 
It  was  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  little  hamlet  of  huts,  and  on 
leaving  the  precincts  of  our  domicile,  to  take  a  general  survey  of 
the  country,  we  found  ourselves  stormed,  as  it  were,  by  troops  of 
tawny  kanakas,  and  loosely-attired  wyheenees — young  ladies, — 
who  had  called  to  have  a  chat  with  the  houri-man-a-wars.  They 
were  quite  sociable,  squatted  beside  us  on  lava  ridges,  laughed  and 
chatted,  took  the  cigars  from  our  teeth,  blew  a  whiff  themselves, 
passed  them  around  the  circle,  returning  them  again  to  the 
original  puffers,  which  being  interspersed  with  pokes  and  pinches, 
they  made  themselves  very  friendly  and  at  home.  Our  staid 
chaplain,  too,  became  well-nigh  captivated,  before  they  wer? 
made  to  comprehend  that  he  was  a  mikonaree  !  then  these  dusky 
nymphs  became  mute  as  mice,  and  very  demure  in  his  presence. 

The  rain  came  on  presently,  and  we  sought  shelter,  took  a 
nap,  and  at  sunset  sat  down  to  dinner.  Apart  from  sundry 
palatable  dishes  prepared  by  our  own  major-domo,  there  was  a 
tuau  turkey,  after  the  Sandwich  mode  of  cooking,  which,  as  I  wit- 
nessed, I  shall  here  take  the  liberty  of  describing  the  process. 

It  was  a  large  gobbler,  who,  upon  being  knocked  down  by  a  billet 
of  wood,  was  stripped  of  his  plumes,  cleaned,  dressed,  and  stuffed 
with  a  green,  cabbage-looking  vegetable,  called  luau;  then  care- 


334  CHAPTER  XXXIX. 


fully  swathed  like  a  mummy  in  damp  banana  leaves,  he  was  laid 
on  a  native  oven  of  red-hot  stones,  all  covered  thickly  over  with 
more  leaves,  until  there  was  not  a  chink  or  cranny  for  the  escape 
of  heat  or  steam.  How  long  he  remained  undergoing  this  ope- 
ration I  do  not  exactly  remember,  but  on  sitting  down  to  table, 
he  was  ushered  in,  on  a  huge  platter,  in  his  green  winding-sheets, 
and  after  removing  the  outer  coatings,  he  presented  a  whitish, 
parboiled  appearance,  half-drowned  in  a  pulpy  mass  of  luait,,  and 
fell  to  pieces  at  the  first  touch :  he  was  steamed  to  death.  I 
experimented  on  him,  and  truthfully  declare  he  had  not  a  taste 
of  the  turkey  flavor,  and  we  thought  it  the  worst  possible  use  he 
could  have  been  put  to ;  albeit  the  vegetable  was  delicious,  and 
made  amends  for  the  tasteless  gobbler. 

Early  the  next  morning  we  arose,  breakfasted  and  mounted  ; 
the  route  was  over  the  same  swelling  hillocks  and  mounds  of  lava, 
the  view  bounded  far  and  near  by  the  same  dense  growth  of  ferns, 
and  a  dull,  unbroken  solitude  reigned  around — uninterrupted  by 
chirping  of  birds,  or  even  the  wheetling  of  lizards  or  crickets. 
Slowly  we  ambled  along — the  weather  was  lowering  and  gloomy; 
there  was  not  a  trickling  rill  of  water,  nothing  but  dull  sky  above, 
and  lava,  always  lava  below  ! 

My  horse,  too,  was  a  monster  of  his  species — never  shall  I 
forget  that  brute  ;  had  he  been  provided  with  a  cocoanut  column 
on  each  leg,  by  way  of  stilts,  he  could  not  have  come  down 
harder — ugh  !  at  every  other  step  on  coming  to'  some  narrow 
crevice  of  the  rocks,  he  would  raise  his  fore  hoofs,  and  let  himself 
fall,  at  it  were,  with  a  jar  that  made  my  jaws  rattle  like  cracking 
walnuts  with  my  teeth ;  it  makes  me  shudder  even  at  this  late 
day  to  think  of  it.  I  tried  to  coax  him  into  a  gallop  with  lash, 
spur  and  pen-knife,  that  he  might  break  his  neck,  and  gratify  my 


THE  VOLCANO.  335 


revenge !  but  no !  it  was  his  maiden  visit  to  the  crater,  and  so 
far  as  a  letter  of  future  recommendation,  he  was  resolved  never 
to  go  again. 

We  journeyed  on  during  seven  tedious  hours — the  great  dome- 
like mountain  of  Mauna  Loa  appearing  even  to  recede  as  we  ap-  . 
proached — its  smooth,  oval  hase  and  sides  sloping  so  easily  from 
the  frosted  summit  as  to  induce  the  belief  of  the  practicability  of 
a  coach  and  horses  going  up,  without  let  or  hindrance.  Almost 
imperceptibly  we  had  attained  an  elevation  of  four  thousand 
feet,  when  we  came  upon  a  broad  plain,  extending  nearly  twenty 
miles  to  the  base  and  flanks  of  Mauna  Loa.  Shortly  after,  a  few 
light  wreaths  of  steam  were  blown  from  the  rocky  crevices  around, 
and  in  a  moment  we  stood  on  the  brink  of  Kilauea ! 

li  For  certain  on  the  brink 
I  found  me  of  the  lanlentable  vale 
The  dread  abyss  that  joins  a  thundrous  sound." 

We  were  on  the  rim  of  a  mighty,  depressed  circus,  walled  about 
without  a  break,  by  precipitous  masses  of  brown  and  reddish  ba- 
saltic rocks,  and  looking  down  hundreds. of  feet,  aye,  more  than  a 
thousand  !  we  beheld  with  a  bird's-eye  glance,  a  vast  frozen  black 
lake,  once  a  huge  sea  of  fire — now  a  congealed  surface  of  lava, 
where  you  may  place  Paris,  reserve  a  nook  for  New  York,  and 
not  be  pushed  for  space  either  ! 

After  infinite  toil  and  peril,  we  clambered  down  the  steep  face 
of  the  wall  by  a  broken  pathway,  and  with  some  misgivings, 
planted  our  feet  on  the  crunched,  crowded  and  broken  slabs  of 
lava,  with  the  ashes  eric/cling  beneath  the  tread,  very  like  crisp 
snow,  and  all  closely  resembling  a  frozen  estuary,  where  the  tide 
had  fallen  and  left  the  ice  very  much  shattered  and  uneven.  Yet 
there  was  no  danger — walk  miles  and  miles  in  evei'y  direction — 


330  CHAPTER  XXXIX. 


take  care  you  don't  step  into  those  unfathomable  cracks  and 
splits,  for  the  longest  and  strongest  arm  ever  moulded  could  not 
save  you  from  this  the  pit  of  Pluto  ! 

Three  miles  from  the  point  of  descent,  near  the  opposite  shore 
of  the  gulf,  is  still  another  large  and  deep  crater,  which  probably 
plays  the  safety-valve  to  the  whole  island.  It  is  generally  in  a 
state  of  great  bubble  and  contention,  but  now  was  quiet,  and  only 
favored  us  occasionally  with  a  few  uneasy  sputterings,  as  if  the 
vestal  devil  below  wished  to  have  it  understood,  that  he  had  not 
entirely  gone  out  or  shut  up  the  shop,  but  was  more  busily  occu- 
pied poking  the  fires  of  Hecla  or  Stromboli. 

My  companions  were  hunting  over  the  broken  slabs  of  vitreous 
lava  for  bits  of  specimens,  of  a  sort  of  glassy  fibre,  called  Pele's 
hair,  after  the  heathenish  superintendent  of  the  realms :  I  was 
seated  on  a  frowning  black  ledge,  near  unto  what  resembled  a 
long  range  of  four  story  granite  warehouses,  the  day  following  a 
conflagration — resting  my  wearied  limbs  and  determining  men- 
tally in  which  direction  I  should  run  to  escape,  hi  case  the  black, 
frothy  cauldron  should  happen  to  boil  over,  or  how  I  should  feel 
boiling  in  it ;  when  my  reverie  was  disturbed  by  a  Caliban  of  the 
calibashes,  the  color  of  a  burnt  brick,  who  was  capering  around  in 
a  pair  of  primitive  pattens,  formed  of  rushes  bound  to  his  feet, 
as  if  the  lava  was  warmer  and  sharper  than  agreeable :  pointing 
with  his  chin  to  the  mouth  of  the  breathing  crater,  aramai,  said 
he, — come  here — beckoning  me  to  approach  nearer,  to  make  an 
impression  with  a  dollar  in  the  molten  mass,  at  the  risk  of  my 
coins  and  singed  fingers.  "  Aramai  yourself,  with  that  kettle  of 
cold  water,"  quoth  I,  quaffing  a  sip  to  his  infernal  majesty's 
health  and  spirits.  "  I  didn't  come  all  the  way  here  to  see  sim- 
mering lava,  and  get  my  nose  and  toes  scorched  for  the  trouble  ; 


THE  CRATER.  337 


believe  me,  fiery  Pluto  !  those  pleasurable  sensations  I've  enjoyed 
many  a  time  and  oft,  years  ago  ;  but  could  you  give  us  a  down- 
right good  ague  with  an  earthquake,  byway  of  a  novelty,  I  should 
consider  my  education  completed,  and  make  no  further  call  upon 
your  generosity."  Notwithstanding  my  invocation,  the  mountain 
remained  firm  and  apathetic,  and  becoming  heartily  disgusted, 
I  forthwith  turned  my  back  on  Kilauea. 

Our  guide  on  this  volcanic  excursion  rejoiced  in  the  epithet  of 
Barnes,  and  I  beg  leave  to  endorse  him  for  any  other  tourist. 
Mr..  IB.,  in  our  ignorance,  assured  us  that  gentlemen  ever  in- 
dulged in  strong  waters  before  descending,  after  inspecting  the 
crater,  "  sweetening  the  very  edge  of  doom,"  as  it  were,  and  also 
upon  mounting  upward ;  suggesting  that  the  guide  was  treated  in 
like  manner,  and  as  an  invariable  rule,  all  ullages  were  confided 
to  his  care.  Mr.  B.  also  gratified  us  with  many  remarkable  nar- 
ratives concerning  the  native  population. 

We  had  a  dreadfully  fatiguing  ascent  to  the  upper  regions, 
somewhat  alleviated  by  the  kind  services  of  the  calibash  men, 
who  butted  us  up  the  most  difficult  steeps  with  their  heads,  when, 
after  gasping  an  hour  from  exhaustion,  our  appetites  returned 
with  renewed  vigor,  and  we  made  another  meal  on  luau  turkeys. 
We  were,  moreover,  comfortably  housed,  and  fortunately,  for 
towards  nightfall,  the  wind  arose  from  the  great  Mauna  Loa  and 
drove  the  light  chilling  rain  in  loud  gusts  and  moanings  over  the 
plain.  During  the  night  we  heard  the  muttering  throes  of  the 
volcano,  and  at  intervals  in  the  darkness,  a  bright  sheet  of  fire 
would  leap  up  from  the  black  abyss,  so  intensely  vivid  as  to  paint 
a  brilliant  flame-low  in  the  thick  mist  that  crept  along  the  crater's 
sides.  There  was  a  perfume  of  sulphur  and  nitre,  that  seemed 
to  spring  from  the  very  floor  of  our  habitation,  but  far  too  fagged 
15 


338  CHAPTER  XXXIX. 

out  to  heed  it,  we  were  soon  wrapt  in  forgetfulness,  or  what  was 
better,  good  warm  cloaks  and  serapas. 

The  day  broke  cold  and  stormy,  so  we  huddled  on  flannel  shirts, 
and  paid  a  hasty  visit  to  some  enormous  sulphur  banks  that  were 
steaming  actively  near  the  verge  of  the  crater.  Beautifully  col- 
ored crystals  were  profusely  found  on  the  fissures  of  wide  steam 
cracks  and  yawning  chasms  ;  then  there  were  fearful  dark  holes*, 
like  chimneys,  as  indeed  they  were,  evolving  strong  puffs  of  sul- 
phur, that  kept  flurrying  and  eddying  around,  and  when  a  whiff 
chanced  to  take  one  in  the  nose  or  mouth,  it  quite  gave  a  choking 
taste  of  Uncle  Nicholas's  abode. 

We  regarded  the  whole  affair  as  a  special  providence  intended 
for  the  Hawaiians,  who  are  all,  more  or  less — men,  woflten  and 
children — afflicted  with  the  itch,  and  if  they  could  only  be  in- 
duced to  give  the  steam  a  fair  trial,  there  could  be  no  skepticism 
upon  the  beneficial  results  that  would  ensue. 

This  was  all  there  was  to  be  seen  or  wondered  at — returning  to 
the  straw  hut,  we  ate  more  luau  turkeys — sent  kanakas  and 
calibashcs  ahead,  and  then  got  on  the  beasts  once  more  on  our 
return  route.  We  shortly  bid  adieu  to  the  drizzling  rain  hanging 
above  Kilauea,  for  a  clearer  atmosphere.  The  same  night  we 
had  more  turkeys  and  more  sleep  at  the  half-way  house,  and  the 
following  evening  reached  Hilo. 


CHAPTER    XL. 

DURING  the  fortnight  of  our  stay  in  the  bay  of  Hilo,  we  had 
opportunities  of  observing  a  fair  sample  of  island  life.  It  is  a 
place  less  visited  than  others  of  the  Hawaiian  group,  and  as  a  con- 
sequence, the  natives  have  lost  nothing  from  a  less  constant  asso- 
ciation with  more  civilized  nations. 

They  still  preserve,  in  a  certain  degree,  old  habits  and  hea- 
thenish customs,  though  very  much  modified  by  the  benevolent 
efforts  of  their  missionary  pastors ;  yet  there  are  many  deeply  rooted 
and  immoral  practices,  which  the  good  teachers  find  a  Hercu- 
lean labor  to  eradicate.  Nevertheless,  it  must  strike  a  stranger 
with  surprise  to  find  all  these  deini-barbarians  have  been  taught 
to  read  and  write — exceedingly  well  too — indeed  the  clean,  well- 
defined  caligraphy  of  the  Hilo  nymphs  will  compare  with  that 
of  the  most  fashionable  style  of  the  art  in  young  ladies'  semina- 
ries at  home — they  pay  a  strict  outward  observance  to  the  Sab- 
bath, have  a  general  knowledge  of  the  Scriptures,  and  many  of 
the  youth,  a  tolerable  share  of  education. 

The  huts  in  the  vicinity  of  towns  and  settlements  are  more  com- 
fortable and  habitable  than  in  the  days  of  Cook  and  Vancouver, 
partaking  somewhat  in  build,  to  the  steep  angular  Dutch  roof,  but 
constructed  of  poles  and  thatch,  without  windows,  and  with  only 
a  single  entrance.  Great  quantities  of  clean,  well-made  mats  are 
piled  about  the  floors,  which  are  couches  for  eating  or  sleeping ; 


;j4Q  CHAPTER  XL. 

the  bedstead  is  not  used,  and  since  a  deal  of  rain  falls  upon  the 
windward  side  of  the  island,  the  health  of  the  population  is  seri- 
ously affected  by  the  dampness  of  the  ground. 

The  natives  are  amiable,  good-natured,  indolent  beings,  and 
approach  nearer  to  the  toujours  gai  than  any  people  in  existence. 
But  let  no  one,  judging  from  their  simplicity  of  manners,  be  so 
verdant  as  to  suppose  he  can  win  their  hearts  or  produce  with 
glass  beads,  jack-knives,  or  any  other  species  of  baubles !  Per- 
adventure  he  will  discover  they  have  as  correct  an  appreciation 
of  silver,  and  can  drive  as  sharp  a  bargain,  as  ever  the  Jew  out 
of  Jerusalem.  Still  they  were  obliging,  and  would  attend  us  all 
day  in  our  tramps  and  excursions,  apparently  well  satisfied  with  a 
trifling  present  of  stumps  of  cigars. 

One  great  detriment  to  health  is  removed,  in  the  article  of 
spirits.  Like  all  the  Indian  races,  they  are  extravagantly  fond 
of  it  but  in  Hawaii  there  is  not  a  drop  to  be  had,  and  in  the 
other  islands  of  the  cluster,  a  heavy  penalty  is  rigidly  inflicted 
for  disposing  of  it  to  a  native. 

Among  their  favorite  dishes  is  that  of  raw  fish,  and  as  a  great 
rarity  a  luau  dog  !  Under  the  most  solemn  pledges  of  secrecy,  I 
was  permitted  to  witness  the  exhuming  of  one  of  these  animals, 
with  the  privilege  of  making  a  meal,  in  case  he  was  found  to  be 
palatable.  These  solecisms  on  modern  cookery  and  viands  are 
severely  frowned  upon  by  the  missionaries ;  and  with  much  cau- 
tion, we  were  taken  to  a  small  hut,  back  of  the  village,  and  when 
'a  venerable  kanaka  had  been  placed  on  guard  in  a  cane  brake,  to 
prevent  surprise  from  Kaikos,  we  entered  the  tenement.  A  huge 
calibash  was  placed  on  the  ground,  filled  with  the  national  prepa- 
tion  of  poee-poee.  It  was  a  white  mixture,  made  of  smashed  and 
fermented  taro,  of  the  consistency  of  a  stiff  paste,  and  it  is  not 


CANINE  DISH.  341 


considered  the  mode  to  eat  it  with  aught  else  but  fingers—  one, 
two,  three,  or  the  whole  hand,  according  to  its  liquidity.  The 
Hawaiians  beat  the  Neapolitan  lazzaroni  in  dextrous  use  of  their 
digits  and  digestions !  whereas  the  latter  beggars  can  only  suck 
down  several  continuous  leagues  of  maccaroni  without  a  bite,  and 
be  satisfied,  the  native  will  make  a  cone  of  hand  and  fingers, 
and  with  the  whirling  velocity  of  a  water-spout,  he  takes  up 
enough  of  the  plaster  of  Paris  like  liquid  to  make  a  thorough  cast 
of  mouth  and  jaws,  with  the  energy  to  repeat  the  impression  every 
minute  !  Where  it  all  goes  to  is  a  mystery.  It  has  been  sug- 
gested that  they  are  hollow,  like  bamboos,  down  to  their  heels  ;  but 
it  is  a  mooted  point.  I  tasted  this  pocc-poee,  by  way  of  an  appe- 
tizer— found  it  not  unlike  sour  starch,  and  felt  no  further  inclina- 
tion to  make  a  hearty  meal.  By  this  time  stones  and  leaves 
were  taken  from  a  sunken  oven  in  the  corner  of  the  hut,  and 
lo  !  the  barker  was  exposed  to  view !  The  warning  of  Cave 
Canem,  which  I  had  seen  in  former  years  at  Pompeii,  never 
struck  me  forcibly  until  now  !  I  had  heard,  too,  a  metaphor 
about  "  the  hair  of  a  dog  being  good  for  a  bite,"  but  the  moment 
I  beheld  the  entire  animal,  with  his  white  jaws  and  tongue  lolling 
out,  I  felt  no  inclination  for  even  a  bite — lost  my  appetite,  and 
came  quickly  away,  with  the  intention  of  turning  informer,  and 
sending  the  Kaikos  in  among  the  party. 

The  manner  of  fattening  these  interesting  and  delicate  animals 
is  not  dissimilar  to  the  process  of  cramming  turkeys  with  walnuts. 
They  are  a  peculiar  kind — short-legged  and  domestic.  The  feeder 
takes  a  mouthful  of  poee-poee  and  raw  fish  ;  after  masticating  it 
to  a  proper  consistency  and  shape,  he  seizes  his  victim  by  the 
throat,  chokes  the  jaws  wide  open,  then  drops  the  contents  of  his 
own  mouth  into  that  of  the  brute.  We  were  told  that  it  is  only 


342  CHAPTER  XL. 


necessary  to  use  this  violence  with  puppies,  on  becoming  older 
and  docile  they  take  to  the  food  more  kindly. 

Among  other  novel  sights,  I  saw  with  calm  pleasure  the  native 
boys  climb  cocoanut-trees,  by  tying  the  big  toes  together  by  a 
wythe  of  bark,  then  aided  by  hands  and  knees  they  run  up  the 
tall,  waving  columns.  Down  come  bounding  the  nuts ;  a  small 
dusky  imp  at  your  elbow  whisks  off  the  husks  with  his  teeth  ! 
cracks  a  hole  in  the  skull — up  !  up  !  gurgle  !  gurgle  ! — and  down 
your  throat  glides  the  cooling  and  delicious  draught.  Pine-apples, 
too  ! — large,  perfumed,  luscious  fellows  ! — thirty  for  sixpence,  and 
considered  exorbitantly  dear  at  that  price !  Then  there  is  the 
spreading  bread-fruit,  with  the  greenest  of  dark  green  leaves ; 
but  my  juvenile  impressions  of  the  fruit  I  discovered  were 
entirely  erroneous ;  for  instead  of  being  like  bakers'  loaves,  or 
even  French  rolls,  they  were  different  as  possible  ;  the  fruit  being 
enveloped  in  a  coarse,  thick  rind,  tinged  with  yellow,  with  white 
meat,  about  twice  the  bulk  of  pippins  ;  and  when  properly  roasted 
has  the  taste  of  an  insipid  potato. 

I  have  been  perfectly  sheltered,  too,  in  a  pelting,  pitiless 
shower,  by  an  extempore  umbrella,  constructed  of  two  big  banana 
leaves ;  and  sipped  water  from  native  cups,  made  in  a  trice  from 
a  goblet-shaped  leaf  snatched  at  the  road  side  ;  and  on  a  certain 
occasion,  when  wearied  by  a  long  walk,  I  threw  myself  beneath 
the  heavy  shade  of  a  fan-leafed  pandanmus,  and  submitted  to  the 
loammi-loammi.  It  is  a  more  delicate  operation  than  the  Turkish 
mode  of  shampooing,  and  when  the  operators  are  laughing  native 
girls  the  sensations  are  far  pleasanter. 

They  commence  a  running  succession  of  pinches  from  heels  to 
shoulders,  accompanied  by  kneadings,  and  pokings  with  the  tips  of 
their  fingers ;  then  selecting  a  clear  space,  they  begin  a  diapason 


WATER-NYMPHS  OF  HILO.  343 

of  light  thumps  and  blows,  interspersed  by  a  gentle  trip-hammer 
movement  with  outer  edges  of  the  hands ;  now  slow,  now  fast, 
faster — like  flashes  of  light — until  the  cadence  dies  languidly 
away,  in  soft,  melodious  tappings,  leaving  the  patient  in  a  quiet 
frame  of  mind,  and  the  body  very  much  refreshed. 

The  high  chiefs,  who  are  all  immensely  corpulent,  and  said  to 
be  rather  given  to  overfeeding  themselves,  use  the  loammi- 
loammi  to  make  them  comfortable  after  repletion,  so  that  they 
may  go  on  again,  without  personal  inconvenience — always  keeping 
a  number  of  expert  practitioners  in  their  trains. 

All  classes  at  Hilo  evince  an  enthusiastic  admiration  for  flowers, 
and  the  maidens  particularly  are  never  without  natural  wreaths, 
or  necklaces  of  woodbine  and  jessamine,  prettily  woven  for  the 
occasion.  There  is  a  yellow  bud  of  the  candle-nut,  which  is  not 
so  pleasant  to  eye  or  nose,  though  more  generally  worn.  But  in 
all  the  tastes  and  diversions  of  the  natives,  there  was  not  one  that 
charmed  us  so  much,  and  in  which  the  natives  indulged  with 
such  wild  delight,  as  bathing  in  the  river  Wailuku. 

Along  the  whole  eastern  face  of  the  island  of  Hawaii  there  are 
numberless  rills  and  streams  that  come  bounding  from  the  lofty 
sides  of  the  giant  mountains,  in  cataracts  and  cascades,  until  at 
last  they  jump  from  the  green-clad  shores  into  the  salt  foam  of 
the  ocean.  One  of  the  largest  of  them  is  the  Wailuku.  No 
farther  than  a  league  from  the  harbor  inland  is  a  miniature 
Niagara,  of  more  than  a  hundred  feet,  which  dashes  a  mass  of 
broken  water  into  a  bowl-like  basin,  flashing  upon  either  side 
brilliant  rainbows,  from  which  the  fall  takes  its  name.  Retracing 
our  steps  towards  the  village,  the  banks  of  the  little  river  become 
less  abrupt,  and  within  a  few  hundred  yards  of  the  bay  the  water 
fe  diverted  into  a  multitude  of  channels — here,  a  torrent  boiling 


344  CHAPTER  XL. 


over  scattered  rocks,  with  a  clear,  sleeping  pool  beyond — there, 
the  white  cataract  plunging  swiftly  through  narrow  straits,  and 
leaping  gaily  down  below,  like  a  liquid  portcullis  to  some  massive 
gateway — again,  whirling  eddies  playing  around  rocky  islets,  until 
at  last  by  one  sparkling  effort  the  waters  re-unite,  .and  go  roaring 
and  struggling  down  a  steep  chasm  into  the  noisy  surf  of  the  bay. 

It  is  here  the  young  of  both  sexes  pass  most  of  their  time. 
Troops  of  boys  and  girls,  and  even  little  ones  scarcely  able  to 
walk,  are  seen  in  all  directions,  perched  on  broad  shelving  crags 
and  grassy  mounds,  or,  still  higher  up,  clinging  from  the  steep 
sides  and  peeping  out  from  amid  the  foliage.  On  every  side  they 
come  leaping  joyously  into  the  rushing  waters  !  There  on  a  bluff — 
thirty,  forty — ay !  seventy  feet  high — a  score  of  native  maidens 
are  following  each  other  in  quick  succession  into  the  limpid  pools 
beneath.  The  moment  before  their  flight  through  the  air  they  are 
poised  upon  the  rocky  pedestals,  like  the  Medicean  Venus.  One 
buoyant  bound — the  right  arm  is  throwa  aloft,  knees  brought  up, 
and  at  the  instant  of  striking  the  water  the  head  falls  back,  feet 
dashed  straight  out — when  they  enter  the  pools  with  the  velocity 
and  clearness  of  a  javelin,  shooting  far  away,  just  beneath  the 
surface,  like  a  salmon. 

Others,  again,  are  diving  in  foaming  torrents — plashing  and 
skirling — laughing,  always  laughing — plunging — swimming,  half- 
revealing  their  pretty  forms  before  sinking  again  beneath  the 
stream.  Others,  still  more  daring  and  expert,  go  whirling  through 
narrow  passages,  thrown  from  side  to  side  in  the  white  waters — 
now  completely  hidden  in  the  cataracts — anon  rising  up  in  a 
recumbent  attitude,  when  away  they  are  hurled  over  a  cataract 
of  twenty  feet,  emerging  far  below,  with  long  tresses  streaming 


THE  WAILUKU.  345 


behind,  and  with  graceful  limbs  cleaving  the  river,  like  naught 
else  in  nature  more  charming  than  themselves. 

It  is  a  sight  to  make  a  lover  forget  his  mistress,  or  a  parson  his 
prayers.  I  know  it  would  have  been  my  case,  had  I  been  so 
fortunate  as  to  be  either !  Here  I  passed  all  my  leisure  hours, 
never  tired  of  beholding  the  beautiful  panorama  of  life  and  water 
moving  before  me  ;  and  there  were  others,  on  these  occasions, 
who  were  wont  to  mingle  bravely  in  the  sport — portly  post- 
captains — husbandly  lieutenants — mad-cap  reefers,  of  course — 
staid  chaplains,  too ! — but  all  declared  it  was  pleasant,  exceeding 
pleasant !  although  mingled  with  a  few  indifferent  remarks  as  to 
what  the  good  missionaries  might  think  of  it. 

Many  of  the  wyhcences  have  pretty  faces,  expressive  black 
eyes,  and  long,  jet-black  hair ;  then  there  are  others,  who  make 
good  imitations  of  Blenheim  spaniels  in  the  visage  ;  but  nearly  all 
have  rounded,  voluptuous  forms,  perfectly  natural  and  beautiful 
when  young,  with  small  hands  and  feet :  but  such  larks  they  are 
for  fun  and  laughtor !  with  a  certain  air  of  sly  demureness  that 
renders  them  quite  bewitching. 

In  the  cool  of  the  afternoons,  a  number  of  us  in  company  with 
half  a  dozen  of  these  attractive  naiads,  would  amuse  ourselves 
sliding  over  a  gentle  water-fall  that  poured  into  a  secluded  basin 
stretching  calmly  away  below  :  hand  in  hand — and  very  soft, 
pretty  hands  they  were  ! — or,  forming  a  long  link,  one  after  an- 
other, in  a  sitting  posture,  we  threw  ourselves  upon  the  mercy  of 
the  lively  foam  above,  and  like  lightning  dashed  over  the  brink 
of  the  falls,  and  were  drawn  with  magical  celerity  for  a  great 
depth  beneath  the  surface ;  until  our  ears  tingled  and  senses  reeled 
with  the  rushing  noise,  when  we  would  again  be  swept  swiftly  by 
a  counter-current  up  to  the  air  of  heaven,  and  carefully  stranded 
15* 


346  CHAPTER  XL. 


on  a  sand  bank  near  by,  wondering  very  much  how  we  got  there, 
and  always  greeted  by  the  gay  laughter  of  the  water  nymphs 
around  us.  Nor  is  it  the  safest  sport  imaginable,  for  in  some  of 
these  submarine  excursions  an  inexperienced  person  is  sometimes 
given  to  beat  his  head  or  body  against  rocks,  or  be  carried  to  the 
wrong  eddies  and  floated  among  dangerous  straits,  to  the  great 
detriment  of  his  breath  and  digestion.  However,  no  one  need 
entertain  the  slightest  fears  when  attended  by  the  natives.  They 
may,  when  saving  you  in  the  last  gasp  of  drowning,  hold  you  up 
in  the  combing  breakers,  and  ask,  "  how  much  ?  tree  monee  ?" 
with  a  prospective  glance  at  a  reward.  But  when  diverting  your- 
self with  these  nut-brown  naiads,  they  guide  you  in  safety  through 
perilous  labyrinths,  and  shield  you  from  all  harm.  On  one  occa- 
sion, a  laughing,  good-humored  damsel,  whom  we  christened  the 
Three-decker,  in  compliment  to  a  double  row  of  ports  tatooed 
around  her  waist,  was  seated  beside  me  on  a  flat  ledge,  and  opened 
the  conversation  by  asking,  "  V\ratee  namee  you  ?"  "  Bill,"  said  I. 
"Lice  namee  Harree,"  she  archly  replied,  and  shoved  me  into  the 
torrent  for  laughing  at  her  curiosity.  But  on  gaining  my  lost 
position,  she  broached  another  theme,  which  was  so  appallingly 
ludicrous,  that,  losing  all  command  of  soul  and  body,  I  rolled  off 
the  rocks,  and  had  it  not  been  for  the  stout  arms  of  a  nimble 
wyheenee,  who  gallantly  came  to  the  rescue,  I  should  in  all  proba- 
bility, as  the  Three-decker  jocosely  remarked,  have  been  muckee 
moi — defunct;  for  the  water  had  so  nearly  filled  me  up,  that 
there  was  not  the  faintest  vestige  of  a  laugh  left  in  my  body.  I 
rewarded  her  with  a  plug  of  tobacco,  which  is  occasionally  used 
as  a  currency. 

We  experienced  much  rain  during  our  sojourn,  and  when  pre- 
pared to  leave,  were  detained  some  days  by  the  wind.     The 


MAUNA  KEA  AND  MAUNA  LOA.  347 

liarbor  is  protected  by  a  sweeping  sunken  reef,  that  forms  a  ad  de 
sac  of  the  port,  with  an  entrance  like  the  neck  of  a  bottle.  On 
the  28th  of  August,  by  the  assistance  of  our  pilot,  Mr.  Kit  Baker, 
who  played  corkscrew  on  the  occasion,  we  were  safely  drawn  out — 
shook  the  wet  canvas  from  the  yards,  and  away  we  coasted  along 
the  island. 

It  was  a  beautiful  sight,  indeed  !  The  smooth,  green  freshness 
of  the  slopes — the  distant  village,  with  its  groves  and  fields  of 
coffee  and  sugar — native  huts  and  plantations  fast  coming  and 
going,  as  we  went  sailing  by — white  cascades — and  intensity  of 
verdure  everywhere  —spread  liko  a  glowing  mantle  from  the 
mighty  shoulders  of  Mauna  Kea  and  Mauna  Loa — made  me  doubt 
if,  in  all  our  future  "  Polynesian  researches,"  we  should  behold 
any  scenery  so  surpassingly  lovely  as  Owyhee,  with  sweet  little 
Hilo,  and  its  foaming  Wailuku. 


CHAPTER    XLI. 

BEFORE  dusk  the  green  shores  had  faded  from  our  sight, 
although  the  snow-capped  head  of  Mauna  Kea  arose  as  plainly 
and  proudly  as  if  we  were  within  a  mile  of  his  feet. 

Sometime  during  the  night  we  entered  the  Paipolo  Passage, 
and  the  next  morning  were  becalmed,  in  a  triangular  sea,  between 
the  islands  of  Maui,  Molokai  and  Lanai.  We  were  bound  to  the 
former ;  towards  meridian  the  breeze  again  filled  the  sails,  and  in 
a  few  hours  we  were  at  anchor  in  the  Roads  of  Laihaina, 
securely  sheltered  by  the  high  hills  of  the  island. 

The  general  appearance  of  this  group  is  not  unlike  clusters  of 
the  Grecian  Archipelago  :  the  same  reddish  hues  to  the  heights, 
the  same  basking  verdure  in  the  valleys,  with  perhaps  a  far 
grander  outline  and  boldness  of  scenery.  In  Maui  there  is  no 
comparison  to  the  universal  greenness  and  fertility  of  the  east 
side  of  Hawaii.  The  lofty  mountains,  attaining  an  altitude  of 
ten  thousand  feet,  arrest  the  trade  clouds  in  their  westward 
flight,  and  the  contents  are  condensed  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
island.  Yet,  although  the  background  shows  for  a  great  extent 
barren  and  sterile,  there  is  still  much  to  relieve  the  eye  in  the 
deep  green  reposing  between  the  sharp  split  gorges,  where  vege- 
tation creeps  in  thick  profusion  to  the  topmost  peaks.  And  then 
the  town  itself — larger  than  Hilo — built  along  the  sea-shore, 


MAUI  AND  LAIHAINA.  349 


radiant  with  noble  groves  of  cocoanut,  and  bread-fruit,  and 
pretty  houses  half  buried  in  shrubbery.  There  is  also  a  great 
red-roofed  New  Kngland  meeting-house — a  two-storied  square 
stone  edifice,  which  is  the  King's  country  palace,  having  a  double 
range  of  verandas  in  front,  and  a  little  lake  of  black  mud  in  the 
rear,  not  in  the  best  possible  state  of  order  or  cleanliness,  but 
more  conspicuous  than  all,  placed  a  league  up  the  hills,  is 
the  large  white  buildings  of  the  the  native  High  School  of 
Lahainaluna. 

Maui  is  becoming  a  great  resort  for  whale-ships  to  recruit  from 
their  long  cruisings  ;  it  has  been  the  means  of  infusing  energy  and 
industry  into  the  native  population  in  the  cultivation  of  the  rich 
soil,  and  thus  for  miles  around  the  town  the  lands  are  planted 
with  Irish  and  sweet  potatoes,  taro,  yams,  and  many  kinds  of 
excellent  vegetables  and  grains,  which  grow  all  seasons,  whenever 
sown.  The  markets  were  well  supplied  besides  with  meats  and 
fruits  ;  and  nothing  can  exceed  the  clean,  tasteful  manner  in  which 
the  lighter  produce  of  the  island  is  put  up  in  native  baskets. 
With  the  fresh  leaf  of  the  cocoanut  they  are  woven  or  braided 
in  a  trice — oval,  round  or  square, — with  a  pliable  green  handle  all 
ready  for  transportation.  The  cocoanut  is  to  these  simple 
islanders  what  prayers  are  to  the  Turks — meat,  drink,  and  panta- 
loons ;  or  rather,  as  I  have  been  told  by  others  professing  a 
deeper  knowledge  of  the  Mahommedan  lingo  than  myself,  when 
listening  to  the  Muezzins  shouting  their  signals  from  minarets  of 
mosques  However,  here  is  better  authority  : — 

"  The  Indian's  nut  alone, 
Boat,  cable,  sail,  and  needle— all  in  one." 

They  catch  fish,  too,  with  nets,  and  lash  their  huts  together  by 


350  CHAPTER  XLI. 


braid  of  the  husk.  Their  couches  are  mats  of  the  leaves.  The 
milk  makes  a  delicious  beverage,  and  is  kept  cool,  no  matter  how 
burning  the  sun,  in  the  lofty  husky  reservoirs.  The  tree  itself 
U3ver  ceases  bearing  while  there  is  a  drop  of  sap  in  the  body,  and 
I  have  counted  more  than  a  hundred  of  these  nutty  tanks  on  a 
single  shaft.  If  I  remember  aright,  when  a  boy  I  was  extrava- 
gantly fond  of  a  penny's  worth  of  the  fruit  fished  out  of  glass  jars. 
I  never  touch  it  now,  for  experience  has  taught  me  to  confine 
myself  to  the  milk  alone.  Indeed,  I  know  of  no  thin  potation 
more  truly  refreshing  before  breakfast,  than  a  cooling  draught  of 
cocoanut  wai.  The  nut  must  be  neither  in  its  infancy,  nor  yet 
matured,  but  just  on  the  verge  of  manhood ;  then  commend  me 
to  it,  and  they  will  be  rosy  lips  to  draw  one  from  its  mouth. 

We  found  everything  more  advanced  than  at  Hilo — the  bread- 
fruit particularly — but  not  only  in  the  vegetable  kingdom — for 
civilization  was  far  ahead,  also ;  or  at  least  so  far  as  creature 
comforts  extend — aided  by  a  good  hotel,  dinners,  and  pleasant 
rides  in  the  vicinity. 

The  lanes  and  avenues  were  so  clouded  with  fine  red  dust, 
that  walking  any  distance  was  out  of  the  question.  Foreigners  have 
many  cool,  matted-straw-built  dwellings  on  the  sea  beach,  and 
there  are  numbers  of  pleasant  cottages  near  the  suburbs ;  but 
prettier  than  all,  is  one  secluded  country  house,  a  little  way  from 
Lahaina,  closely  embowered  in  foliage,  with  a  trickling  rivulet  at 
the  door-way,  that  would  make  a  retreat  for  a  princess. 

The  Governor  of  Maui  was  James  Young,  a  half-breed,  or 
happa  houriy  and  descended  from  the  English  seaman  mentioned 
by  Vancouver.  He  had  visited  England,  and  spoke  the  language 
perfectly,  although  with  the  tone  and  expression  of  a  common  sailor. 
In  person  he  was  large— with  a  pleasant  faoe — much  lighter  than 


GOVERNOR  YOUNG  351 


the  natives  generally,  and  from  bis  conversation  he  appeared  to 
be  a  man  of  excellent  practical  sense.  His  residence  was  within 
the  fort — a  large  square  enclosure — constructed  of  rough  red  coral 
rocks,  banked  up  fifteen  feet  with  earth,  and  mounting  an  oddly 
assorted  battery  of  some  thirty  pieces  of  artillery,  of  all  sorts  of 
carriages  and  calibre — long,  short,  and  mediums ;  they  command 
the  usual  anchorage,  and  no  doubt  do  very  well  to  prevent  any 
acts  of  violence  from  merchant  ships ;  but  it  is  a  question,  if  at 
the  second  discharge  of  shot  they  do  not  tumble  to  pieces.  There 
were  a  company  of  Hawaiian  troops  to  man  this  fortress,  who  were 
well  uniformed,'  and  looked  as  well  as  Kanakas,  or  any  other 
savages  who  have  been  accustomed  half  their  lives  to  go  naked 
can  look,  when  their  natural  ease  of  motion  is  cramped  by  Euro- 
pean clothing. 

Governor  Young  very  sagaciously  removed  all  restrictions  from 
the  pleasures  of  our  crew,  who  had  liberty  on  shore — leaving  it  a 
matter  of  supererogation  to  bribe  the  Kaikos,  whose  integrity  is 
never  above  suspicion.  However,  there  was  no  liquor  to  be 
bought,  but  Jack  got  very  comfortably  drunk  on  Cologne  water : 
completely  exhausting  the  large  stocks  of  a  long-tailed  Chinaman, 
in  whosa  possession  it  had  for  a  lengthened  period  lain  an  unsale- 
able drug.  Even  after  it  had  been  all  sold,  so  great  was  the 
demand,  that  an  old  salt  threatened  to  take  the  Chinese  by  the 
heels  and  snap  him'like  a  coach-whip,  in  case  he  did  not  produce 
another  bottle  of  "tooloone"  water,  without  more  palaver. 

One  evening,  during  our  visit  at  Lahaina,  I  was  entertained  by 
a  hospitable  countryman,  at  his  cool,  airy  residence,  which  stood 
on  a  little  raised  embankment  of  the  sea  beach.  A  group  of 
native  maidens  also  favored  us  with  their  fascinating  society,  and 
without  further  invitation  seated  themselves  at  table,  and  seizing 


352  CHAPTER  XLI. 


a  pack  of  cards,  soon  became  deeply  engaged  in  the  game.  It 
was  like  most  other  games :  those  who  held  certain  cards,  certainly 
won ;  but  although  it  was  to  me  incomprehensible,  I  observed 
that  they  cheated  in  the  most  expert  manner,  at  the  same  time 
slapping  the  bits  of  pasteboard  on  the  table  with  the  energy  of 
inveterate  whisters  ;  occasionally  muttering,  when  losing  or  win- 
ning, such  exclamations  as  ka  !  ka  ! — maitai  ! — meaning  "  Oh  ! 
I'm  ruined!"  "Disgusting!"  or  "  I  'm  in  luck!"  and  the  like. 

Becoming  cnnuied  with  these  proceedings,  after  much  entreaty 
and  a  glass  of  wine,  they  consented  to  give  me  an  idea  of  surf- 
swimming. 

The  moon  was  high  and  full,  throwing  a  white,  bright  light 
athwart  the  rippling  water,  like  a  quivering  sea  of  silver  coins. 
A  Kanaka  attendant  speedily  produced  slabs  of  light  cotton  wood, 
about  a  foot  longer  than  the  person,- and  two  feet  and  a  half  wide. 
Each  provided  with  one  of  these  boards,  they  swam,  or  paddled 
out  to  the  farthest  roller.  It  may  be  as  well  to  remark  here, 
that  there  is  no  reef,  as  at  Hilo,  within  whose  coral  walls  shipping 
can  anchor ;  only  a  ledge  near  the  shore,  that  serves  to  break  the 
force  of  the  waves  upon  the  beach.  Boats,  however,  land  without 
inconvenience,  through  the  agency  of  a  small  canal  cut  from  the 
ledge  to  the  heart  of  the  town,  in  shape  of  a  letter  L. 

The  girls  are  at  the  outermost  roller,  when  awaiting  the  moment 
before  it  breaks,  they  come  flying  in  on  the  very  crest  of  the 
wave,  at  the  speed  of  a  race-horse,  the  great  art  being  to  preserve 
so  nice  a  poise  on  the  back -bone,  as  it  were,  of  the  breaker,  aa 
not  to  be  left  behind,  nor  yet,  as  I  found  at  the  cost  of  several 
abrasions,  launched  too  far  ahead,  and  thus  have  the  whole  crash 
of  the  roller  pitching  you  over  and  over  in  a  series  of  hydropathic 
revolutions  by  no  means  safe  or  pleasant :  but  to  understand  the 


SURF  SWIMMING.  353 

thing  properly,  it  is  excessively  exciting  sport.  One  of  the  girls, 
daughter  of  a  chief,  possessed  the  knack  in  great  perfection,  and 
while  dashing  in  with  astonishing  velocity — at  least  the  rate  of 
twenty  miles  the  hour — she  would  spring  buoyantly  upon  the 
board,  and  then  maintain  a  pose  on  one  leg,  either  kneeling  or 
standing,  with  an  a  plomb-Yike  security  of  balance,  that  would 
have  ruined  the  reputation  of  Ducrow  ! 

During  the  day  every  little  idle  imp  and  lounger  about  the 
town  devote  the  time  sporting  in  the  surf;  I  have  watched 
them  for  hours,  a  dozen  of  them  perhaps  in  a  group  :  their 
black  heads  set  in  a  liquid  frame  of  sparkling  foam,  half  lost  to 
view,  as  the  wave  subsides,  then  taken  up  by  another,  and  borne 
on  the  unbroken  ridge  of  a  green  roller,  crossing  and  recrossing 
each  other's  tracks,  shouting  and  laughing,  nntil  the  moment 
before  striking  the  coral  strand,  the  boards  are  turned  aside,  and 
off  they  paddle  again  for  another  ride. 

I  was  not  successful  at  the  first  lesson,  although  carefully 
instructed  by  my  amiable  companions  in  boards ;  and  after  an 
hour's  practice,  finding  I  had  swallowed  as  much  salt  water  as  I 
could  conveniently,  we  returned  to  the  house. 

Never  having  witnessed  a  legitimate  native  dance,  all  our  per- 
suasive eloquence  was  exerted  to  induce  the  young  ladies  to 
delight  us  with  a  hcrar,  but  they  proved  obdurate  ;  and  one 
assured  me,  with  great  indignity,  that  she  was  mikonarcc  all  ovar  ; 
at  the  same  time  making  a  graceful  manipulation  with  her  hands, 
from  head  to  foot,  to  add  strength  to  her  assertion.  Thus  finding 
myself  associated  with  so  pious  and  virtuous  a  coterie,  who,  how- 
ever, did  not  deem  it  incompatible  with  their  morality  to  sit  down, 
with  renewed  zest,  to  cards,  I  desisted  from  further  efforts,  and 
betook  myself  to  a  cigar. 


354'  CHAPTER  XLI. 


In  this,  as  with  all  my  later  experience  and  intercourse  with 
island  beauties,  I  became  convinced  that  I  should  never  fall  in 
love  with  them  out  of  the  water.  There  is  their  native  element 
for  grace  and  witchery,  whilst  cleaving  the  yielding  fluid  with 
rounded  limbs  and  streaming  tresses,  when  one's  nice  sense  of 
perfume  is  not  offended  by  rank  odors  of  cocoanut  oils,  and 
other  villanous  cosmetics,  which  in  themselves  are  enough  to 
transform  a  Hebe  into  a  Hecate. 


CHAPTER    XLII. 

THE  large  native  seminary  at  Lahainaluna,  upon  which  the 
Missions  place  great  hopes  of  future  usefulness,  was  under  the 
superintendence  of  Messrs.  Andrews  and  Alexander,  gentlemen 
attached  to  the  Presbyterian  board,  who  impressed  us  very  forcibly 
with  their  intelligence,  by  the  liberal  views  they  entertained  in 
relation  to  their  charge,  and  fitness  for  the  office. 

It  is  intended  as  the  high  school  for  tho  sons  of  chiefs  of  the 
group,  and  such  other  youth  whose  aptness  for  instruction  make 
them  worthy  of  being  educated.  The  buildings  belonging  to  the 
institution  are  capable  of  accommodating  more  than  one  hundred 
pupils.  Six  hours  are  devoted  to  study  and  recitation  :  they 
cook  their  own  food,  and  a  portion  of  time  intended  for  relaxation 
is  occupied  in  practical  utility — chiefly  agricultural  pursuits,  or 
as  the  mission  report  of  the  young  ladies'  school  under  Miss 
Ogden,  at  the  east  end  of  Maui,  states,  "  the  time  from  four  to 
five  they  devote  t<5  exercise  with  the  hoe." 

About  eighty  of  the  pupils  visited  the  frigate,  by  special  invi- 
tation— they  appeared  between  the  ages  of  twelve  and  twenty — 
attired  in  curiously  devised  European  garments,  but  clean  in  their 
apparel,  orderly  and  well-behaved,  although  awkward  and  uncouth 
in  movements.  I  was  not  struck  with  many  intelligent  faces,  and 
their  instructors  gave  no  very  flattering  ideas  of  their  aptitude  for 


356  CHAPTER    XLII. 


the  acquisition  of  learning.  Not  more  than  one  in  twenty  could  be 
termed  a  bright  boy  ;  they  experience  the  greatest  difficulty  in 
gaming  a  knowledge  of  the  English  language,  and  it  is  a  question 
if  it  would  not  be  advisable,  even  at  this  late  day,  to  do  away 
entirely  with  the  native  dialect,  pen  up  the  children,  and  substi- 
tute some  other  idiom  having  fewer  words  to  express  vice,  and 
more,  the  higher  attributes  of  morality  and  virtue. 

Physically  speaking,  the  students  were  well  formed,  robust,  and 
active,  but  all  more  or  less  tinged  with  scurfy,  cutaneous  dis- 
orders, transmitted  to  them  through  their  progenitors  as  an  indelible 
mark  of  esteem  by  the  first  discoverers  of  the  islands.  Our  visi- 
tors remained  on  board  an  hour,  and  everything  was  done  to 
make  it  a  happy  one  :  they  climbed  the  rigging,  went  all  through 
the  ship,  fired  cannons  shotted,  and  were  loud  in  their  admiration 
of  the  band.  Upon  leaving,,  they  seemed  highly  delighted,  kindly 
greeted  us  with  the  usual  expression  of  good-will — aloha  ! — and 
very  generally  offered  to  shake  hands,,  but  we  pleasantly  declined, 
J  trust  without  wounding  their  feelings,  for  we  were  ungloved, 
and  a  long  way  from  the  sulphur  banks  of  Kilauea. 

Institutions  for  female  scholars  are  numerous  in  the  group,  but 
there  is  not  one  on  the  same  scale  of  magnitude  as  that  of  Lahai- 
naluna,  nor  are  the  girls  themselves  worthy  of  the  benevolence 
and  solicitude  extended  to  them  by  their  excellent  teachers.  A 
school  at  Hilo,  under  the  direction  of  a  missionary  lady,  highly 
distinguished  for'ability  and  perseverance,  had  lately  been  relin- 
quished on  account  of  the  abandoned  character  of  the  pupils. 

These  instances  must  indeed  dampen  the  ardor  of  the  most 
sanguine  philanthropists,  who  have  been  so  many  years  striving 
to  emancipate  these  Indian  races  from  the  depths  of  vice  and 
ignorance.  The  whites  themselves,  to  their  shame,  be  it  said, 


THE  NATIVES.  357 

arc  far  from  lessening  the  evil,  and  I  heard  Mr.  Cohen  feelingly 
and  truthfully  remark,  in  connection  with  the  difficulties  encoun- 
tered in  their  labors,  that  the  missionaries'  voices  were  but  a 
breath  in  stemming  the  torrent  of  bad  examples,  caused  by  hun- 
dreds^of  loud  voices  from  every  merchant  vessel  and  ship-of-war 
touching  at  the  group.  Assuredly  much  has  been  accomplished 
in  the  outer  crust  of  civilization,  by  an  association  for  so  long 
a  period  with  the  whites,  but  notwithstanding  the  almost  unpar- 
alleled efforts  of  the  missions,  they  have  gained  little  in  true 
morality,  though  everything,  perhaps,  in  decency,  contrasted  with 
the  native  state  in  former  times. 

The  Hawaiians  are  naturally  indolent,  voluptuous  and  deceitful, 
more  imbecile  than  vicious,  destitute  of  morality,  preserving  of 
late  years,  the  form,  not  from  principle,  but  fear  of  exposure,  and 
subsequent  punishment.  Infanticide,  always  prevalent  in  the 
Polynesian  tribes,  is  here  more  alarmingly  frequent  than  even 
during  their  darkest  days  of  sacrifice  and  idolatry,  caused,  no 
doubt,  in  a  great  degree,  by  unnecessarily  severe  laws  against 
illegitimacy.  There  are  no  government  hospitals,  and  the  disease 
brought  by  Cook  is  sweeping  still,  with  the  deadly  strides  of  a  pes- 
tilence. These  causes  serve  to  check  and  diminish  the  popu- 
lation to  an  extent  hitherto  unprecedented,  and  not  unless  their 
very  existence  as  a  nation  becomes  obliterated,  does  there  appear  to 
be  any  reasonable  prospect  of  reform.*  And  now,  it  can  be  asked, 
if,  with  all  these  evils  entailed  upon  them  by  strangers,  does  it 
not  seem  problematical,  if  in  their  days  of  superstition  and  igno- 
rance they  were  not  morally  better  ?  Happier  they  certainly 
were  !  Then,  their  very  indolence,  induced  by  an  equable  and 

*  Vide  Report  to  the  Hawaiian  Legislature  of  1848,  by  11.  C.  Wyllie,  Minister  of 
Foreign  Relations. 


358  CHAPTER  XLII. 


delicious  climate,  where  Nature  so  bountifully  scatters  her  fruits 
in  their  path,  produced  an  enervating  languor,  where  neither 
cares  nor  sorrows  surrounded  them  !  Now,  their  natural  sense 
and  experience  teach,  that  they  cannot  cope  with  the  skill  or 
energy  of  the  foreigner,  and  hopelessly  and  inevitably  they  must 
look  forward  to  the  rapid  future,  when  their  lands  will  be  in 
strange  hands,  and  the  few  remnants  of  their  race  the  slaves  or 
puppets  of  their  white  masters.  Although  sad  the  picture,  the 
results  bear  no  comparison  to  the  world  at  large,  in  the  benefits 
accruing  to  civilization  by  acquiring  a  foothold  on  these  islands, 
which,  from  their  position  and  resources,  are  shortly  destined  to 
become  of  vast  importance  to  commercial  enterprise  in  the 
Pacific. 

The  Board  of  Presbyterian  Missions,  first  in  the  grand  work 
of  redemption,  have  done  all  that  philanthropy  could  suggest,  in 
earnest  and  unceasing  efforts  towards  reclaiming  the  race  from 
barbarism — in  a  spirit  of  the  greatest  liberality,  expending  nearly 
a  million  of  dollars,  distributed  through  a  period  of  thirty  years — 
wherein,  if  naught  else  had  been  adduced  than  the  beneficial 
results  resting  upon  the  simple  fact,  that  out  of  a  population  of 
about  a  hundred  thousand,  which  compose  the  Hawaiian  cluster, 
more  than  half  have  been  taught  to  read  and  write,  instructed  in 
the  rudiments  of  education,  and  generally  conversant  with  the 
Scriptures — this  is  of  itself  sufficient  to  claim  the  lasting  gratitude 
of  all  who  have  the  progress  of  civilization  at  heart.  But  what 
is  still  more  surprising,  this  has  been  begun  and  completed  within 
the  space  of  but  thirty  years — a  point  of  time  inconceivably  brief 
in  the  history  of  a  nation,  even  in  the  age  of  rapid  advancement 
in  which  we  live. 

The  groundwork  of  Christianity  has  also  been  firmly  planted, 


MORAL  CONDITION   OF   THE  NATIVES.  359 

and  so  long  as  the  Hawaiians  do  exist,  it  will  go  on  slowly  but 
steadily  to  increase.  Yet  the  reports  from  the  Board,  detailing 
such  immense  numbers  of  conversions  made  so  miraculously  of 
late  y.:ar.s,  undor  missionary  auspices,  should  be  received  cum 
grano  salts.  Surely  they  cannot  be  intended  purposely  to  mis- 
lead— but  still  it  has  the  semblance  of  a  sort  of  paid-up  imaginary 
capital,  to  swell  and  exaggerate  the  amount  of  their  labors.  On 
all  sides  it  was  universally  believed,  that  there  are  not  five  hun- 
dred true  converts  in  the  group,  instead  of  over  thirty  thousand, 
as  these  reports  would  make  out !  Then  why  these  incorrect 
statements  ?  And  again,  a  retired  missionary  quoting  the 
Honorable  J.  P.  Judd,  another  gentleman  formerly  attached  to 
the  Board  and  now  at  the  head  of  the  Hawaiian  government,  says : 
"  The  moral  condition  of  the  Islands  may  compare  favorably  with 
that  of  any  other  country."*  Such  glaring  mendacity  is  beneath 
the  contempt  of  any  visitor  to  the  group  blessed  with  eyes ;  and 
as  a  slight  proof  of  the  estimate,  at  this  late  day,  in  which  this 
morality  is  held,  the  missionaries.,  themselves,  who  have  young 
families,  never  permit  them  to  acquire  the  native  dialect,  and 
most  carefully  guard  them  from  any  intercourse  with  the  natives, 
fearing  probably  the  contaminating  influences  of  an  association, 
so  deplorably  exhibited  in  the  children  of  the  English  Mission  in 
one  of  the  groups  of  Southern  Polynesia. 

Furthermore,  the  violent  ravings  of  the  retired  missionary 
I  have  already  quoted,  against  what  he  terms  "  papacy,  prelacy, 
papists,  abomination  of  the  Church  of  Rome,"  and  the  like  bal- 
derdash, are  enough  to  induce  the  belief,  that  were  it  not  for  the 
great  conservative  Law  and  Order  party,  which  now  rules  the 

*  Bingham,  page  609. 


360  CHAPTER  XLII. 


world — wherein  the  virtues  of  hemp  are  duly  set  forth — these 
doluded  enthusiasts,  so  blinded  by  their  fanatical  zeal,  would  be 
cutting  one  another's  throats,  with  the  same  malignant  ferocity 
as  in  the  bitter  wars  of  the  Huguenots. 

The  missionaries  fully  deserve  all  the  love  and  influence  they 
possess  with  the  native  population,  for  the  toil  and  labor  of  very 
many  weary  years,  passed  away  from  homes  and  kindred ;  and  so 
long  as  they  sedulously  abstain  from  secular  affairs,  and  resolutely 
confine  themselves  to  the  field  of  their  good  work,  the  very  piety 
and  blameless  purity  of  their  lives  will  shield  them  from  the 
smallest  reproach.  But  human  passions  are  ever  the  same.  This 
very  influence  induces  them  to  take  part  in  the  political  conten- 
tions of  the  government ;  and  whatever  may  be  said  to  the  con- 
trary, it  is  evidently  by  their  direct  means,  or  connivance,  that 
almost  every  public  measure  emanates.  Nor  is  this  the  most 
innocent  charge  laid  at  their  doors.  Behold  the  illiberality  and 
want  of  true  Christian  charity,  evinced  not  only  here,  but  with 
equal  hostility  by  English  missionaries  in  the  Society  Islands,  in 
unremitting  persecutions  and  expulsion  of  the  Catholics.  Whether 
directly  urged  by  the  Protestants,  or  at  their  instigation  through 
the  native  chiefs,  matters  not — they  were  driven  like  dogs  from 
these  inhospitable  shores,  and  never  dared  to  return  until  backed 
by  the  cannon  of  their  King. 

It  may  well  be  doubted,  if  the  Catholics  had  been  the  first 
to  have  raised  the  banner  of  the  Cross  on  the  Islands  of  Polynesia, 
whether  they  would  quietly  have  sub  mitted  to  any  foreign  inno- 
vations upon  their  creed  or  forms.  History  gives  no  instances 
where  an  acquisition  has  been  relinquished  without  a  deadly 
struggle  ;  but  in  these  days  of  enlightenment,  when  the  field  is  so 
ample,  why  not  throw  wide  open  the  gate  to  all  laborers  in  the 


THE  CATHOLICS.  361 


cause  of  philanthropy,  where  no  harm  can  arise,  and  great  good 
may  follow  ? 

The  Catholics  lead  as  pure  and  irreproachable  lives  as  their 
Protestant  brethren — without  perhaps  the  comforts — and  are 
rapidly  making  proselytes;  their  religion  teaching  forgiveness 
and  absolution,  being  more  in  accordance  with  the  backsliding 
sins  of  the  natives,  who  meet  with  no  appeal  from  the  more  aus- 
tere puritanisin  of  the  Protestants. 


16 


CHAPTER    XLIII. 

After  a  delightful  visit  spent  at  Lahaina,  late  one  afternoon, 
•we  bade  adieu  to  Maui,  and  steering  between  Lanai  and  Molokai, 
by  daylight  the  following  morning  we  had  passed  Diamond  Point, 
and  let  run  our  anchor  at  a  great  depth  of  water,  a  mile  or  more 
outside  the  Oahu  reef,  the  frigate's  draught  being  too  large  to  allow 
her  to  enter  within  the  smooth  and  well-protected  arms  of  the  port. 

We  were  in  Honolulu — the  Isrnir  of  Polynesia — a  little  thriv- 
ing city  of  nearly  eight  thousand  people,  and  its  situation  one  of 
the  prettiest  in  the  world.  It  lies  spread  about  at  the  base  of 
the  beautiful  valley  of  Nuaana,  upon  a  very  gentle  slope  down  to 
the  verge  of  the  harbor.  On  either  hand  the  shores  are  fringed 
with  cocoanuts,  and  all  around,  up  hill  and  vale,  save  the  burnt 
sides  of  the  Devil's  Punch-bowl  and  Point  Diamond,  is  laid  the 
deepest,  densest  verdure,  as  if  it  had  been  actually  poured  down 
from  the  heights  above,  in  liquid  floods  of  foliage,  until  there  was 
not  a  spot  on  the  leafy  waves  where  another  green  branch  could 
find  a  lurking  place  ! 

Honolulu  is  a  town  of  strangers,  with  shops,  stores,  and  ware- 
Louses  ;  handsome  dwellings  with  verandas  and  piazzas  ;  pleasantly 
shaded  cottages  of  elegant  modern  build,  with  grass  and  flowers  ; 
and  nice  little  straw  huts,  in  clusters  by  themselves,  for  bache- 
lors, all  very  cool ;  then  the  unpaved  streets  are  filled  with  dust, 


HONOLULU.  363 


and  natives  wander  about,  in  bright-colored,  loosely-fitting  gar- 
ments, looking  forlorn,  diseased,  and  miserable,  living,  no  one 
cares  how  or  where ;  sleeping  in  the  most  loathsome  abodes  of 
wretchedness,  and  vilest  dens  of  vice  ;  in  all  save  absolute  want 
or  destitution,  far  below,  in  the  moral  scale,  the  worst  hovels  of 
iniquity  in  the  great  cities  of  the  Old  World  !  But  we  have  no 
time  to  waste  upon  morals.  Presently  a  low  four-wheeled 
vehicle  rattles  along — there  are  many  of  them — drawn  by  Kanaka 
cab-horses  ;  very  kind  and  humanizing  it  is  too,  for  the  beasts  are 
tame,  never  kick,  not  given  to  prove  restive,  or  run  away,  at 
least  with  the  coach  !  I  often  speculated  mentally  if  the  fair 
women  when  taking  an  airing  ever  blushed  for  their  cattle.;  and 
when  I  saw  a  pious  missionary  lady  trotting  gaily  by,  I  wondered 
if  she  had  ever  seen  or  read  a  "  High-heeled  Shoe  for  a  Limping 
Sinner" — most  probably  not.  And  then  within  those  charming 
cottages  I  spoke  of,  there  are  lovely  women  from  far,  far  over 
the  seas — oh,  beautiful  was  one  ! — who  make  music  and  dancing, 
and  most  agreeable  society,  and  hand  around  delicious  tea  fresh 
from  the  Celestials,  and  piquant  lemonade — eschewing  vinous 
compounds — while  the  sweet  perfume  of  the  lime-trees  is  present 
to  eye  and  sense,  and  all  pleasantly  commingled  with  innocent 
sips  of  scandal. 

Again  the  quays  are  crowded  with  more  miserable  natives, 
with  sprigs  of  coral,  shells,  calibashes,  or  island  ornaments  in 
their  hands,  looking  wistfully,  and  silently  towards  you ;  for  they 
never  use  importunities,  they  are  too  indolent  by  half.  And  there 
is  a  market  shed  near  by,  where  a  fat  woman  will  swallow  a  full 
gallon  ofpoee-poee,  to  show  how  the  thing  is  done,  provided  it  be  paid 
for  !  And  then,  as  a  relief  from  these  diseased  beings,  there  is  the 
white  reef  seaward,  vainly  chafing  and  lashing  the  coral  barrier ; 


364  CHAPTER  XLIII. 


and  the  calm  harbor,  clustering  with  fine  ships,  chiefly  of  the 
oleaginous  order,  while  whale-boats,  and  graceful  Koawood 
canoes — with  light  frameworks  of  sticks,  and  outriggers  to  bear 
them  upright — are  dancing  over  the  blue  wavelets. 

There  are  agreable  rides  in  every  direction  diverging  from  the 
city.  The  most  fashionable  is  up  the  Nuana  Valley.  The  road 
is  broad  and  straight,  lined  on  either  side  by  well-tilled  planta- 
tions of  fruits,  and  patches  of  vegetables,  with  elegant  country- 
houses,  placed  back  from  the  causeway,  half  visible  through  the 
rich  and  sombre  foliage. 

Five  minutes'  gallop  takes,  you,  by  an  easy  ascent,  away  from 
the  heat  and  dust  of  town.  The  atmosphere  is  purer  and  cooler, 
the  blue  sea,  shipping,  reef,  town,  groves  and  fields,  are  lying  in 
miniature  at  you  feet !  Go  on — pass  the  King's  villa — up,  up, 
for  six  or  seven  miles,  and  suddenly  the  trade  wind  sweeps  with 
heavy  gusts,  around  a  sharp  turn  of  the  craggy  verdant  peaks, 
and  you  stand  on  a  lofty  terrace,  and  gaze  through  a  great 
balconied  window,  cut  like  an  embrasure,  and  formed  by  piles 
of  rocks  at  the  sides  and  base,  while  below  is  a  frightful  preci- 
pice, and  beyond  a  glorious  undulating  landscape  is  breathing  in 
verdure  and  beauty,  dotted  here  and  there  by  native  hamlets, 
whose  bleached  white  thatching  is  glistening  in  the  sun,  with  herds 
of  cattle  upon  the  hill  sides,  chequered  by  bright  patches  under 
cultivation  ;  while  further  still,  the  island  is  girdled  about  ,by  high 
waves,  breaking  upon  the  rock-bound  coast  with  the  full  force  of 
the  trades. 

This  is  the  Pali,  concerning  which,  among  other  heathenish 
legends,  which  have  neither  romance  nor  chivalric  merit  to 
recommend  them,  it  is  said  that  a  certain  island  king  once  hurled 
from  thence  a  number  of  his  rebellious  subjects. 


LIFE  IN  HONOLULU.  365 


Returning,  we  can  take  a  glance  at  scores  of  poor  squalid  wretches, 
with  closely-shaven  heads,  living  in  filthy  kennels  that  a  decent 
dog  would  despise ;  but  they  have  been  guilty  of  breaking  one  of 
the  commandments,  and  to  reform  their  morals  are  herded 
together,  and  made  to  labor  upon  the  public  roads  ! 

Saturday  is  the  Saturnalia  of  the  Kanakas !  They  revel  on 
horseback ;  the  streets,  roads  and  plains  are  filled  with  them.  It 
it  is  surprising  where  they  all  spring  from  ;  for  although  they  are 
an  ambulating  population,  without  local  attachments,  and  go  in 
schooner-loads  from  island  to  island  of  the  group,  particularly 
upon  the  advent  of  a  large  ship  of  war,  and  no  doubt  are  packed 
very  closely  in  their  hovels  in  and  around  Honolulu,  yet  it  still 
is  a  matter  for  wonderment  where  all  come  from.  Hundreds 
of  both  sexes  throng  the  pathways ;  and  those  more  fortunate, 
who  can  hire  horses,  are  riding,  and  racing,  leaping,  and  kicking 
up  all  the  noise  and  dust  possible.  The  women  bestride  their 
steeds  like  men,  with  petticoats  tucked  snugly  around  them,  and 
sometimes  wearing  for  head  gear  as  many  as  three  bonnets  of 
different  colors,  one  within  the  other,  like  nests  of  pill  boxes.  The 
young  princes  of  the  blood,  too,  attended  by  the  copper-colored 
nobility  of  the  kingdom,  ride  with  headlong  speed,  and  are  not 
remarkable  for  taking  less  than  three-fourths  of  the  highway,  to 
the  great  peril  and  inconvenience  of  more  soberly-mounted  pas- 
sengers. On  one  pleasant  evening  an  aristocratic  sprig  rode 
rudely  against  an  Anglo-Saxon  demoiselle,  in  whose  train  I  had 
the  pleasure  of  being,  and  without  pausing  to  apologise  for  his 
brutality,  continued  on,  causing  me  to  indulge  in  certain  pious 
aspirations  for  my  Mexican  whip  that  I  might  inflict  a  few  mild 
exhortations,  in  spite  of  his  long  line  of  Kanaka  ancestry. 

Neither  men  nor  women  sit  the  horse  gracefully  or  firmly, 


366  CHAPTER  XLIII. 


and  it  is  a  matter  of  hourly  occurrence  to  see  them  take  an  aerial 
toss  from  the  saddle.  A  certain  kind  of  equestrian  intoxication 
— possibly  caused  by  brandy— appears  to  possess  them,  and  they 
gallop  and  .prance  about  as  long  as  the  beasts  have  a  leg  to 
stand  on. 

It  is  customary  for  strangers  visiting  Honolulu,  in  the  absence 
of  requisite  hotel  accommodation,  to  hire  a  small  tenement 
expressly  appropriated  for  that  purpose ; '  many  of  them  are 
pleasant  little  domiciles,  built  of  straw,  and  kept  by  their  pro- 
prietors tolerably  clean,  free  from  fleas,  and  habitable.  They 
are  in  clusters  by  themselves,  'and  surrounded  by  adobie  walls, 
enclosing  a  few  trees,  and  shrubbery,  and  generally  take  their 
designation  from- the  last  ship  of  war  whose  officers  may  have 
occupied  them. 

The  Alsatia  we  affected  was  named  in  compliment  to  an 
English  flag-ship — Collingwood  row  !  Our  hamlet  was  tabooed, 
and  none  others  than  those  especially  licensed,  were  permitted  to 
darken  those  sanctuaries. 

We  arose  early  for  a  bathe  on  the  coral  flats  or  shoals  of  the 
reef,  then  took  gallop  before  breakfast ;  and  when  the  trade  began 
its  diurnal  breeze,  and  the  streets  were  impassible  from  dust,  we 
reclined  within  our  thatched  castles,  enjoying  the  cooling  gusts 
blowing  down  the  Nuana,  or  were  seated  with  segars  beneath  the 
shelving  eaves,  regarding  the  natives  grouped  near  the  door- 
ways! They  were  mostly  girls — poor,  miserable  shameless 
objects,  with  diseased,  unhealthy  complexions,  lounging  all  day  in 
the  glaring  sun,  or  clustered,  two  and  three  together,  sucking 
poee-poee,  smoking  pipes,  and  chatting  their  soft  idiom,  low  and 
laughingly  ;  but  they  had  not  the  grace,  nor  coy  witchery  of  the 


SOCIETY  IN  HONOLULU.  367 


charming  rustics  of  Hilo :  they  were  city  ladies — in  Honolulu, 
where  there  is  more  population,  more  want,  and  far  more  vice  ! 

Before  the  sun  sinks  for  the  day,  there  is  but  little  wind,  and 
walking  or  riding  is  then  a  pleasureable  excitement.  There  is  a 
circle  of  agreeable  society,  too  ;  not  alone  with  foreign  merchants 
and  consuls,  but  with  a  higher  order  of  diplomatic  agents,  who, 
although  severed  from  their  homes  by  thousands  of  leagues  of 
water,  still  surround  themselves  with  all  the  elegancies  and  enjoy- 
ments of  social  existence  which  they  have  known  in  their  native 
lands.  Indeed  Oahu,  though  without  the  salubrious,  agreeable 
climate  of  Maui,  is  still  a  place  of  much  interest  ;  and  from  its 
delightful  position,  and  fine  scenery,  well  worthy  of  all  the  com- 
mendation that  voyagers  bestow  upon  it. 


CHAPTER   XLIV. 

KING  KAMMEHAMMA,  or  Kamme,  as  he  is  familiarly  called,  is 
the  third  of  his  race :  his  ancestors  were  fierce,  ungovernable 
gentlemen,  who,  in  the  good  old  times,  clubbed  and  killed — per- 
haps ate,  too — nobody  knows — a  great  number  of  their  enemies  ; 
but  without  tracing  the  historic  truth  of  these  remote  events,  it  is 
only  necessary  to  state,  that  his  present  majesty  has  been  invested 
with  the  purple,  and  is,  to  all  formal  appearances,  the  chief  poten- 
tate of  the  islands. 

The  government  is  a  complicated  piece  of  political  machinery, 
with  a  constitution,  and  masses  of  subtle  laws,  equal  in  magnitude 
to  the  huge  proportions  of  a  Chinese  dictionary.  There  is  a 
Legislative  Assembly  of  Kanakas,  Ministers  of  State,  War,  Finance, 
Solicitors-general,  an  army,  a  navy,  and  a  court !  This  is  not 
half,  but  it  makes  one  dizzy  to  think  of  it  all  at  once  :  however, 
on  due  reflection,  it  is  not  quite  so  complicated  an  affair  after  all ! 
The  government  is  simplified  by  two  bosom  friends  of  the  King — 
Mr.  Robert  Crichton  Wyllie,  Minister  of  foreign  relations  ;  and 
Mr.  G.  P.  Judd,  Minister  of  finance.  The  former  is  a  very 
clever  Scotch  gentleman,  somewhat  inflated  with  the  royal  trust 
reposed  in  him,  and  has,  moreover,  the  cathoethes  scribendi  to  a 
most  melancholy  and  voluminous  extent ;  yet  he  is  an  agreeable 
person,  and  gives  good  dinners,  and  I  have  not  the  heart  to  say  a 


PRESENTATION  AT  COURT. 


syllable;  to  his  disparagement,  although  I  have  not  had  the  feli- 
city of  testing  his  cuisine  ! 

But  Mr.  Judd  is  the  Magnus  Apollo  of  the  Island.  Kamme, 
or  the  Lonely  One  —  as  the  word  signifies  —  is  his  puppet,  and 
most  particularly  lonely  he  keeps  him  !  The  King  is  Punch,  and 
Judd  i.s  Judy,  and  the  Lonely  One  is  jumped  about  and  thumped, 
and  the  wires  are  pulled  unremittingly.  Judd  is  his  prime  counsel- 
lor, his  parliament,  father  confessor  and  ghostly  adviser  —  his  tem- 
perance lecturer,  purse-bearer,  and  factotum  generally.  There 
was  a  rumor,  too,  in  courtly  circles,  that  an  order  of  nobility  was 
to  be  established,  and  then  we  shall  have,  probably,  Baron  Judd, 
Peer  of  the  Realm  and  Regent  of  the  Kingdom.  One  would 
naturally  suppose  that  a  staunch  democrat  from  the  Model  Re- 
public could  not  bear  the  tainted  air  of  a  monarchical  court  in 
his  republican  nostrils.  But  it  is  wonderful  how  soon  we  learn  to 
estimate  patriotism  at  so  much  per  annum,  and  with  what  sup- 
pleness we  can  kneel  before  a  throne,  if  there  be  dollars  hidden 
beneath  the  dais.  What  boots  it  whether  the  chair  be  filled  with 
African  or  white  ?  We  want  dollars  ! 

The  king  was  universally  liked  by  the  foreigneis;  for  he  has, 
indeed,  for  a  modornizod  savage,  much  bonhommie  ;  is  a  good- 
hearted,  well-meaning  person  ;  rather  given  to  conviviality,  like 
all  his  race,  and  when  permitted  to  throw  off  the  restraints  of  the 
court,  he  "  allows  his  more  austere  faculties  to  become  pleasingly 
relaxed  by  a  little  gentle  and  innocent  indulgence."  However, 
these  backslidings  are  of  rare  occurrence,  and  when  under  the 
argus  eyes  of  his  financial  adviser,  he  is  never  seen  to  exceed  the 
limits  of  propriety  —  eschews  ten-pins  and  tobacco  —  sips  malt,  and 
devotes  his  leisure  to  billiards. 

We  were  to  be  presented  at  court  !  It  occupied  a  number  of 
16* 


370  CHAPTER  XLIV. 


days  to  arrange  certain  punctilio,  and  finally,  without  any  decided 
misunderstanding,  an  hour  was  fixed  for  a  royal  audience. 

One  day,  precisely  as  the  clock  tolled  twelve,  we  sallied  out 
into  the  dusty  streets — chapeau'd,  sworded,  belted,  and  laced  up 
to  the  chin.  The  weather  was  warm,  too.  A  few  minutes  walk, 
guided  by  our  obliging  cicerone,  Mr.  YVyllie,  carried  us  to  the 
Palace. 

It  is  a  large,  square-built  villa,  spaciously  piazzaed  and  win- 
dowed, surrounded  by  pretty  plantations  of  shrubbery  and  fruit- 
trees.  At  the  gateway  a  guard  of  Kanaka  infantry  presented 
arms,  the  royal  standard  was  unfurled  from  the  flag-staff  and 
floated  to  the  breeze.  Passing  up  a  broad,  gravelled  alley,  we 
ascended  a  flight  of  steps  to  the  piazza,  and  were  again  saluted  by 
a  double  line  of  officers,  who  were  supposed  to  be  the  black  rods 
in  waiting.  Entering  the  villa,  we  found  ourselves  in  a  wide  hall 
traversing  the  centre  of  the  building,  with  saloons  to  the  right 
and  left.  The  King  not  having  arrived,  we  had  leisure  to 
inspect  the  reception  room.  It  was  a  spacious  apartment,  with 
windows  on  three  sides,  having  green  Venetian  blinds  opening  to 
the  piazzas,  aud  two  doors  leading  to  the  hall.  It  was  hand- 
somely carpeted,  and  th)  furniture  consisted  of  a  few  plain  ma- 
hogany chairs,  with  another  of  state,  surmounted  by  a  crown.  A 
round  table  stood  in  the  centre,  supporting  alabaster  ornaments, 
volumes  of  Wilkes'  Exploring  Expedition,  and  a  richly-bound 
Bible  in  the  native  dialect,  presented  by  that  estimable  philan- 
thropist, Elizabeth  Fry.  The  walls  were  hung  with  portraits  of 
the  Lonely  One's  family — dingy  chiefs  and  their  ladies,  smiling 
intensely,  with  round  saucer  eyes  and  thick  lips — a  painting  of 
Blucher — two  of  the  Kings  of  Prussia — and  facing  the  throne,  in 
a  gorgeously  gilt  and  carved  frame,  the  King  of  the  French ; 


APPROACH  OF  ROYALTY.  371 


which  two  last,  by  a  singular  coincidence,  had  lately  been  pre- 
sented in  great  state  and  procession  by  the  respective  cjnsuls,  on 
the  very  days  their  several  majesties  had  been  dethroned1. 

Time  was  only  allowed  us  to  take  a  rapid  glance  arourd  the 
saloon,  when  the  approach  of  majesty  was  announced,  and  we 
hurried  back  to  the  hall. 

From  the  opposite  side  of  the  terrace  appeared  the  regal 
cortege — brilliant  in  embroidery,  gold  lace,  nodding  plumes,  and 
swords  at  their  side*:  on-  they  came,  two  abreast — foremost,  the 
King  with  the  Minister  of  Finance — then  a  brace  of  Chamber- 
lains, followed  by  the  High  Chiefs  and  officers  of  state,  and  the 
procession  closed  by  the  two  young  princes,  Alexander  and  Lot. 

In  a  few  moments,  his  excellency  the  Minister  of  Foreign  Re- 
lations imparted  the  august  intelligence  of  all  being  prepared  for 
our  reception.  Forming  in  line — the  Admiral  leading,  under 
pilotage  of  Mr.  Wyllie — we  entered  the  saloon,  and  approached 
the  throne.  The  King  was  standing,  and  the  courtiers  ranged  on 
either  side.  Our  Admiral  backed  his  topsails  and  let  go  an  anchor 
on  the  Lonely  One's  port  beam :  we  were  then  telegraphed  by 
name — shot  ahead — hove  to  abreast  His  Majesty — exchanged 
signals — filled  away  and  took  position  by  order  of  sailing  on  the 
starboard  bow ! 

His  excellency  the  Minister  of  Finance — who,  by  the  way,  was 
not  an  ill-looking  nobleman — in  full  court  costume,  and  a  field- 
marshal's  chapeau  tucked  under  his  arm — announced  to  the 
Admiral  that  His  Majesty  would  deign  to  lend  a  willing  ear  to  any 
observations  upon  religion,  war,  politics,  or  any  other  topics  most 
agreeable.  Whereupon,  the  Admiral  having  a  few  remarks  all 
ready  prepared  in  his  pocket,  proceeded  to  dilate  on  the  happiness 
be  felt  in  being  thus  honored — spoke  of  the  extraordinary  beauty 


372  CHAPTER  XLIV. 

, | 

of  the  Islands — touched  upon  usefulness  of  missionaries,  and  ended 
by  expressing  solicitude  for  His  Majesty's  welfare  and  dynasty. 

This  speech,  was  immediately  translated  by  the  courtly  Judd, 
who,  with  admirable  foresight,  had  provided  himself  beforehand 
with  a  copy.  Thereupon  he  handed  the  King  a  reply,  who  began 
in  much  the  same  strain  as  the  Admiral,  and  concluded  by  hinting 
that  he  hoped  his  dynasty  would  last  a  long  time ! 

The  business  being  now  happily  arranged,  His  Majesty  and  the 
Admiral  became  seated,  and  the  rest  of  us  were  permitted  to 
mingle  freely  with  the  Kanaka  court. 

Kamineharnma,  and  all  his  native  attendants,'  had  handsome, 
agreeable  faces,  and  were  extremely  well  made.  The  Premier, 
John  Young,  a  half-breed,  would  be  recognized  for  an  elegant 
person  in  any  part  of  the  world.  Two  were  of  just  and  colossal  pro- 
portions— one,  the  High  Chief  Parkee,  the  greatest  Chamberlain 
probably  in  the  world — for  he  weighs  nearly  four  hundred  pounds  : 
I  forget  the  precise  number  of  chairs  he  crushes  annually,  but  it  is 
something  enormous,  and  he  is  the  terror  of  all  housekeepers. 

The  King,  Premier  and  Judd,  had  broad  red  ribbons  throw« 
baldric  fashion  over-breast  and  shoulders,  of  such  extreme  breadth 
as  to  give  the  idea  of  the  wearers  having  burst  their  jugular 
arteries. 

Whilst  intently  occupied  regarding  this  brilliant  throng,  I  hap- 
pened to  attract  the  attention  of  an  intelligent  copper  youth,  some 
twenty  years  old,  who  spoke  English  perfectly  well,  and  who  in 
fact  patronised  me  with  great  politeness  and  suavity  of  demeanor ; 
and  well  he  might,  for  he  was  Prince  of  the  blood  royal,  and 
could  afford  it.  There  chanced  to  be  a  fine  engraving  of  Queen 
Victoria  and  infant  family,  in  the  hall.  "  This,"  said  His  High- 
Bess,  pointing  with  marked  emphasis  to  the  little  Prince  of  Wales, 


HAWAIIAN  COURTIERS.  373 


"  this  is  the  heir  to  the  British  throne  !"  Ah  !  thought  I,  forgive 
me,  but  you  occupy  the  same  elevated  position  in  the  Hawaiian 
dynasty!  My  conjc'cture  was  well  founded. 

By  some  means  the  succession  of  late  had  been  changed.  And, 
by  the  way,  it  is  a  wise  institution  they  have,  of  continuing  the 
descent  from  the  female  branch.  The  war-club,  feathers,  and 
other  regalia,  were  to  have  fallen  upon  the  brows  of  one  Prince 
Moses ;  but  Mosos  was  suspected  of  being  too  pointed  in  his 
attentions  to  the  Queen  consort  herself — scandal  perhaps — al- 
though there  could  be  no  question  about  the  sad  havoc  he  com- 
mitted in  the  hearts  of  the  youthful  wyhcenees  of  the  Royal  Acad- 
emy !  Ah  !  wicked  Moses  !  His  excellency  the  Financial  Min- 
ister, fearing  future  inroads  upon  the  peace  of  families,  had  the 
gay  Lothario  banished  to  a  remote  "and  dasolate  district  of  the 
Island,  and  tho  succession  transferred  to  a  brother — the  youth 
who  evinced  so  much  complaisance  towards  me. 

We  remained  a  full  hour,  and  then  made  our  adieus,  u  the 
interview  having  passed,"  according  to  the  Court  Journal, 
"  much  to  the  satisfaction  of  all  parties." 

For  my  own  part  I  was  excessively  diverted  with  the  raree- 
show,  and  thought  it  highly  ridiculous.  What  greater  folly  can 
exist  than  aping  the  forms  and  etiquette  of  an  European  court  ? 
If,  as  is  contended,  the  natives  are  not  sufficiently  advanced  in 
civilization  for  free  government,  it  is  by  no  means  imperative  to 
set  up  a  tinsel  puppet,  to  dazzle  the  eyes  of  a  few  half-naked 
savages ;  for  surely  no  intelligent  person  can  be  so  blind  an  owl 
as  not  to  detect  and  despise  the  cheat.  These  vain-glorious 
ceremonies  and  pretensions  are  also,  in  a  certain  degree,  the 
cause  of  embroiling  the  Hawaiian  Government  with  other  nations, 
whose  consuls  or  diplomatic  agents  complain  of  bad  treatment ; 


374  CHAPTER  XLIV. 


but  in  all  the  bullying  or  advice  volunteered,  incident  upon  their 
indiscretions,  there  has  been  none  so  sensible,  and  so  plainly 
given,  as  the  letter  of  an  English  Admiral  to  the  King,  conse- 
quent upon  outrages  committed  upon  a  British  subject  in  1846. 
Outcries  are  raised,  too,  in  these  cases,  by  individuals  who  have 
renounced  their  own  country  and  sworn  allegiance  to  a  new 
native  master,  about  the  oppression  of  American  citizens. 

One  may  forgive  the  absurdity  attending  these  proceedings  in  a 
Scotchman,  but  it  is  inexcusable  in  a  Yankee.  Still  many 
measures  emanating  from  these  sagacious  councillors  are  cha- 
racterised by  a  careful  regard  to  the  interests  of  the  native  popu- 
lation. But  then  there  are  other  laws,  which  have  not  the 
ground  of  expediency  to  uphold  them,  wherein  strangers  are 
incapacitated  from  becoming  owners  of  landed  property  without 
swearing  fealty  to  the  Hawaiian  King !  As  a  consequence,  the 
greater  portion  of  tillable  ground  is  held  by  the  chief,  who  has 
neither  the  sense  nor  energy  to  direct  the  steps  for  a  proper 
development  of  the  soil.  The  lower  order  are  the  occupants,  who 
themselves  are  not  eligible  to  a  free  tenure,  and  at  least  one-half, 
or  two-thirds  the  benefits  of  their  labor  is  taken  in  some  way  by 
the  proprietors.  Thus,  without  an  incentive  to  greater  efforts 
the  country  languishes  under  the  same  species  of  feudal  tyranny 
and  extortion,  as  in  the  days  of  their  cannibal  forefathers !  The 
islands  are  rich  and  fertile  ;  sugar,  coffee,  and  tobacco  flourish  luxu- 
riantly ;  and  under  any  other  system  than  the  present,  there  could  be 
no  bounds  placed  upon  the  advantages  and  wealth  that  would  follow. 
Yet,  although  this  policy,  which  destroys  the  energies  and 
resources  of  the  group,  is  in  the  greatest  degree  narrow-minded 
and  illiberal,  still  it  is  the  only  course  that  will  sustain  the  wise 
statesman  who  framed  it;  for  their  Excellencies  are  much  too 


POLICY  OF  MINISTERS.  375 


shrewd  not  to  perceive,  with  prophetic  vision,  that  the  very 
moment  the  lands  are  thrown  open  to  foreign  enterprise  and  com- 
petition, a  preponderating  influence  will  be  acquired  by  the  wealth 
and  intelligence  of  foreigners  themselves,  the  lands  will  slip  like 
water  through  the  hands  of  the  chiefs;  and  not  only  will  the 
Lonely  One  be  called  upon  to  throw  off  the  Imperial  tappa,  but 
the  royal  ministers,  also,  will  be  required  to  resign  the  purse- 
strings  and  portfolios,  and  betake  themselves  to  the  retirements  of 
simple  citizenship. 

It  is  blameable,  too,  to  pamper  these  semi-tutored  island  poten- 
tates with  such  highly-seasoned  dainties,  when  in  a  few  years,  or 
may  be  months,  they  may  be  obliged  to  descend  to  native  life, 
and  without  the  interest  attached  to  martyrs  or  Eastern  princes 
we  read  of,  be  made  a  laughing-stock  to  their  former  subjects. 
As  things  remain,  the  entire  institution  of  puppet-king,  complex 
government,  and  scheming  advisers,  is  at  best  but  an  indifferent 
piece  of  charlatanism  and  deception. 

Nevertheless  we  were  distressed  at  the  thoughts  of  leaving 
these  lovely  islands,  for  we  had  become  deeply  imbued  with  the 
rage  for  realizing  rapid  fortunes,  in  the  culture  of  sugar  and 
coffee.  Indeed,  some  of  our  party  were  so  thoroughly  bitten,  as 
to  enter  into  negociations  with  prime  ministers,  and  other  great 
people,  wherein  special  royal  ordinances  were  to  grant  certain 
titles,  with  many  advantageous  exemptions ;  and  we  spoke 
seriously  of  importing  machinery,  Malays,  Chinese,  and  of  other 
operations  ;  until  at  last  we  began  to  fancy  ourselves  doomed  to 
pass  the  remainder  of  our  lives  among  the  kanakas. 


CHAPTER    XLV. 

'  WE  were  forty  days  at  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and  on  the  21st 
of  September  weighed  anchor,  and  sailed  away  from  the  fertile 
vales  of  Oahu.  Passing  along  the  western  shores  of  the  group, 
we  steered  to  the  southward,  until  the  trade  winds  carried  us 
within  a  few  hundred  miles  of  the  equator ;  where  meeting, 
between  the  parallels  of  seven  and  ten,  a  strong  easterly  current, 
reacting  from  the  north-eastern  trades,  we  were  swept  three 
hundred  miles  to  the  eastward. 

During  this  period  we  had  light,  variable  winds,  attended  by  a 
confused,  uneasy  sea,  and  one  continual  series  of  rains.  The  like 
was  never  seen ;  it  poured  in  torrents  for  seventeen  days ;  the  tar 
of  the  standing  rigging  appeared  white-washed  ;  sails  wet,  chafed, 
and  torn ;  decks  sodden  and  spongy,  and  the  heat  below  oppressive. 

One  night,  as  usual,  the  windows  of  heaven  were  opened,  and 
the  rain  came  down,  beyond  all  ancient  similes.  I  was  wet  to  the 
bones,  and  am  convinced  they  too  were  damp ;  the  heavy  canvas 
was  slamming  and  beating  against  the  masts  and  tops,  with  a 
noise  like  the  report  of  cannon,  whenever  the  ship  gave  a  quick 
lurch,  giving  the  idea  of  flying  out  of  the  bolt  ropes ;  indeed  I 
wished  they  would,  for  the  yards  had  been  braced  every  way  to 
woo  the  fitful  breezes,  which  only  for  a  moment  would  fill  the 
leaden  sails,  and  then  hop  around  to  another  quarter.  The  night 


THE  TAR  OF  ALL  WEATHERS.  377 


was  black  as  Erebus  !  except  when  the  lightning  flashed  out  in  a 
blinding  glare,  with  a  pale,  blueish  dazzle,  like  to  the  flash  of  a 
gun,  or  a  burning  blue  light ;  illuminating  the  mazes  of  rigging, 
lofty  spars,  and  clusters  of  the  watch,  crouching  under  partial 
shelter  of  the  hammock-nettings  ; — then  all  was  dark  again.  I  was 
standing  on  the  poop,  up  to  my  ancles  in  water,  although  feeling 
as  if  swimming ;  a  little  old  quarter-master  directing  the  helms- 
man was  at  my  elbow — I  could  not  see,  but  I  felt  him, — he  too 
was  at  times  trying  to  feel  the  white  feathery  dog  vane,  to  know 
where  the  wind  was !  It  was  old  Harry  Greenfield !  None  of 
your  low-crowned,  flowing -ribbon 'd,  wide-trouser'd  dandy  Jacks, 
pricked  all  over  with  china-ink,  like  a  savage  ;  but  a  short,  stout, 
wholesome  little  "  tar  of  all  weathers,"  with  a  pleasant,  rosy, 
good-humored  visage,  bronzed  and  wilted  to  be  sure-,  and  rather 
mouldy  about  the  head,  for  he  had  "  served  his  full  time  in  a 
man-of-war  ship " — nearly  half  a  century — and  no  doubt  had 
taught  many  a  sucking  reefer,  and  given  excellent  advice  to  lots 
of  sapient  lieutenants — I  know  he  has  to  me  often  ;  in  a  word, 
to  complete  his  portrait,  he  was  the  image  of  Durand's  Santa 
Claus  !  "  Well,"  said  I,  "  old  gentleman,  how  are  you  to-night  ?" 
"  Dry  as  dust,  sir."  "  What !  I  thought  you  wet !  "  "  Fat !  " 
said  he,  misunderstanding  me,  "  what  on — salt  junk  ?  You 
might  carry  a  lump  of  it  from  here  to  Jerusalem,  and  not  get 
enough  fat  to  grease  the  pint  of  a  sail-needle."  "No!  wet  I 
say."  "Ah!  yes,  sir!  You're  right,  my  hands  and  feet  are 
shrunk  up  like  a  washerwoman's  thumb,  but  I  meant  inside,  sir." 
"  Well,  here's  the  key  of  the  locker,  go  down  and  take  a  glass  of 
grog,  but  mind  you  allow  for  variation."  "  Aye,  aye,  sir — no 
higher  nor  nor-west."  Presently  he  came  splashing  back  to  his 
old  stand.  "  Mr.  Blank,  I  don't  see  any  shells,  tappa,  and  them 


378  CHAPTER  XLV. 


sorts  of  curiosities  stowed  away  in  your  state-room."  "  What  of 
that  ?  "  "  Presents  to  your  friends,  sir  ?  "  "  Oh,  no,  I  heard  of 
a  witty  lady,  who  had  a  nautical  lover  constantly  sending  her 
navy  trash,  that  she  had  it  all  packed  in  the  attic  to  prevent 
the  drawing-rooms  being  taken  for  a  'sailor  boarding-house." 
"  Sensible  woman,  that,"  chuckled  old 'Harry;  "  you  may  buy 
the  'same  things  for  half  the  money  in  Water-street,  besides 
hubble  bubbles  made  in  Hamburgh."  The  rain  came  down  with 
renewed  violence,  if  possible,  and  I  became  so  completely  satu- 
rated, and  water-logged,  as  to  be  on  the  point  of  requesting  a 
couple  of 'stout  top-men  to  take  me  by  head  "and  heels  and  wring 
me  comparatively  dry,  when  our  confab  was  interrupted  by  a 
sharp  squall ;  but  just  as  as  the  frigate  began  to  move  lively 
through  the  water,  the  wind  died  quietly  away,  the  topsails 
flapped  against  the  masts,  and  all  became  dark  and  rainy  as 
before.  Could  a  saint  help  anathematising  such  weather  ?  "  It's 
unpleasant  business  this  going  to  sea,"  chimed  in  old  Santa 
Glaus,  deprecating  my  wrath  against  the  unfeeling  elements ; 
''  you  ought, to  try  a  smoker,  I  did  once."  "  You  did  ? "  said  I, 
incredulously.  "  Yes,  sir,  I  was  paid  off  from  a  merchantman  in 
Orleans,  and  took  passage  in  one  of  them  smokers,  bigger  than  a 
three-decker." 

"  But  tell  me,  my  old  sea  dog,  why  don't  you  leave  the  broad 
ocean,  and  settle  down  quietly  on  shore  ?"  "  Why,  sir,  I  can't 
afford  it !"  "  No !  well,  let  me  hear  your  ideas  of  life !"  Moving 
close  to  my  side,  while  the  light  from  the  binnacle  flashed  upon 
his  pleasant  face  and  dripping  garments,  he  took  a  reflecting 
glance  at  the  compass  and  then  began :  "  D  'ye  see,  sir,  I  want  a 
country  seat — with  a  nice  sail-boat.  I  'd  get  up  early,  and  take 
a  good  sniffler  of  brandy,  with  a  dash  of  peppermint ;  then  I  'd  go 


PASSAGE  TO   MARQUESAS.  379 

somewhere  or  another  and  take  breakfast — call  for  ine  horse,  and 
ride  away  eight  or  ten  miles  in  the  country — (he  looked  like  a 
horseman!) — when  I'd  get  half  slewed,  and  come  to  town  and 
visit  the  ladies — ."  Here  he  appeared  palled.  "  Go  on,"  I  said 
"  Then,  sir,  I  'cl  take  a  glass  of  old  Madeira — with  an  egg  in  it— 
every  half  hour — until  bed-time,  mind  ye — when,  with  another 
snifflcr"— 

"  Eight  bells  !"  sung  out  the  orderly  at  the  cabin  doors.  The 
watch  was  called  to  take  their  accustomed  drenching,  and  I  went 
below,  without- hearing  the  conclusion  of  old  Greenfield's  yarn. 

This  weather,  caused  probably  by  the  Equinox,  lasted  until  the 
llth  of  October,  when  the  winds  sprang  from  the  South,  blew 
away  the  wet  clouds,  and  carried  the  ship  to  a  longitude  of  128° 
in  5°  North  latitude,  when  the  breeze  gradually  veered  to  the 
Eastward,  and  we  crossed  the  Equator.  On  the  morning  of  the  25th 
we  discovered  the  easternmost  Islands  of  the  Marquesas — passed 
Hood's  Island,  and  the  following  day  anchored  in  Nukeheva — the 
Anna  Maria  bay  of  Mr.  Gouch — Surveyor  of  the  Daedalus,  one 
of  Vancouver's  squadron — who,  in  ignorance  of  the  previous  dis- 
covery by  the  Spaniards  under  Alvaro  de  Mendaila,  had  named 
the  group  after  his  commander,  Hergest. 


CHAPTER    XLVI. 

THE  bay  and  harbor  of  Anna  Maria  is  scooped  out  of  the 
Island  in  shape  of  a  horse-shoe ;  hemmed  in  on  three  sides  by 
steep  mountains,  whose  sharp,  well-defined  acclivities  spring  boldly 
from  the  water — dense  with  foliage — where  the  brightest  verdure 
closely  clasps  and  kisses  the  perpendicular  faces  of  the  lofty  bar- 
riers around. 

At  the  head  of  the  harbor,  along  a  white,  shelly  beach,  are 
multitudes  of  cocoanuts,  hibiscus,  and  bread-fruit  trees,  screening 
within  their  leafy  groves  thatched  huts  and  villages  of  the  natives. 
To  the  right  is  a  rocky  projection,  frowning  with  a  heavy  battery 
of  cannon ;  while  near  by  are  the  pretty  villa  and  grounds  of  the 
Governor — barracks  —  store-houses  —  buildings  and  plantations 
pertaining  to  the  French  garrison. 

I  viewed  this  scene  soon  after  daylight,  as  the  first  rays  of 
morning  came  glancing  in  horizontal  gleams  over  the  eastern 
heights,  tinging  the  opposite  peaks  with  the  rich,  warm  glow  of 
sunlight,  peering  and  prying  into  many  a  green-clad  precipice  and 
grassy  dell,  step  by  step,  until  it  fairly  illumined  the  dark  alcove- 
like  bay  and  shores  below. 

The  anchors  had  hardly  struck  bottom  before  the  frigate  was 
surrounded  by  canoes,  of  a  rough,  clumsy  structure,  filled  with 
natives  of  the  most  hideous  and  frightful  descriptions.  The  men 


NATIVES  OF  NUKEHEVA.  381 


wore  nearly  naked.  Many  had  large,  frizzled  wigs  of  human  hair, 
thrown  down  the  back  of  the  neck,  and  confined  to  the  throat  by 
cords  or  wire — a  style  of  peruke  not  intended  to  be  used,  but 
merely  as  a  decoration.  Others  had  fresh  green  leaves  entwined 
around  the  brows,  with  concave  flaps  in  front,  like  visors  to  caps — 
their  ears  perforated  with  misshapen  holes,  in  which  were  thrust 
carved  ivory  horns,  or  small  bunches  of  flowers.  The  hair,  from 
constant  bleachings  in  salt  water,  dews  and  tropical  suns,  had  a 
brown,  sandy  hue,  or  the  color  of  tow — brushed  straight  back, 
somewhat  resembling  the  head  costume  of  ladies  of  the  court  of 
Louis  Quatorze  !  But  what  rendered  them  preeminently  hideous, 
was  the  tabooing.  It,  indeed,  bordered  on  the  infernal !  Not  only 
were  their  bodies  covered  with  these  dark  stains,  of  every  pattern, 
figure  and  device,  but  large  numbers  had  angular  stripes,  two 
inches  broad,  beginning  at  the  temple,  crossing  the  eyelid,  part 
of  the  nose,  traversing  the  mouth  and  lips,  and  then  going  out  of 
sight  around  the  face.  I  judged  it  to  be  a  dim  idea  of  the  facial 
angle.  Others  had  the  entire  upper  or  lower  part  of  the  visage 
stained  like  masques  in  domino.  Isosceles  triangles  were  common, 
leaving  the  noses  clear,  and  from  a  distance  they  appeared  the 
only  feature  of  their  faces.  There  was  one  demon  who  claimed 
a  large  share  of  our  attention :  not  a  square  inch  of  him,  except- 
ing the  tongue  and  eye-balls,  was  free  from  this  hieroglyphical 
human  "picture  printing,"  and  he  took  immense  delight  in  point- 
ing out  many  high  touches  of  art,  that  might  from  their  position 
have  eluded  our  observation,  and  dilated  with,  to  us,  unintelligible 
gibberish,  upon  certain  other  indescribable  arabesques.  We  thought 
him  intended  as  a  pattern  card;  an  ambulating  advertisement, 
or  sign  board,  sent  abroad,  as  knowing  tailors  send  dandies  at 
homo,  to  give  an  idea  of  the  higher  and  more  correct  delineations 


382  CHAPTER  XLVI. 

of  the  tatoo  :  but  this  individual  was  altogether  so  very  interest- 
ing a  specimen  of  goblin  tapestry,  that  Champollion  himself  might 
have  studied  him  with  much  benefit  and  gusto. 

They  all  looked  like  consummate  rascals,  and  not  in  the  physi- 
ognomony  of  a  single  individual  could  we  detect  the  slightest 
approach  to  benevolence,  or  any  of  the  milder  virtues.  On  the 
contrary,  they  are  famed  for  cruelty,  selfish  apathy,  and  cunning, 
and  are  among  the  worst  of  the  Polynesian  tribes.  There  have  been 
two  or  three  praiseworthy  attempts  to  reform  them,  by  different 
missionary  boards,  but  they  signally  failed.  The  Nukehevans 
were  found  too  vicious  to  even  suffer,  without  great  privation  and 
danger,  their  teachers  to  reside  on  the  islands,  and  they  now  remain 
in  the  same  shocking  state  of  barbarism  as  before  the  discovery  of 
the  group,  in  sad  contrast,  so  far  as  the  humanizing  influences  of 
Christianity  and  civilization  extend,  to  the  benefits  the  pioneers 
of  religion  have  shed  upon  the  other  islands  of  these  Indian  Archi- 


During  the  few  years  the  French,  in  their  rage  for  colonization 
in  the  Pacific,  have  occupied  Nukeheva,  they  have  encountered 
great  difficulties  in  keeping  these  unruly  natives  within  the  bounds 
of  moderation.  For  a  length  of  time  they  were  continually  on 
the  qwi  vive  to  guard  against  treachery  and  attack  ;  of  late,  the 
islanders  had  been  quiet,  understanding  that  the  French,  who 
held  the  harbor  under  what  was  termed  a  forcible  proprietorship, 
were  shortly  to  depart ;  and,  indeed,  as  a  preparatory  step,  some 
of  the  government  buildings  had  already  been  taken  down  and 
Bent  to  Tahiti.  Still  there  seems  no  reason  why  the  Marquesans 
should  have  evinced  this  bitter  hostility,  for  it  was  conceded  that 
they  have  been  treated  with  great  lenience  and  forbearance. 

As  a  harbor  of  refuge,  in  time  of  war,  Anna  Maria  is  perfectly 


FRENCH  GARRISON.  383 


safe — accessible  and  defensible  ;  but  from  the  natural  indolence 
of  the  natives,  it  is  destitute  of  supplies  in  sufficient  quantities  to 
feed  even  the  few  whale-ships  touching  here  during  the  year. 

The  garrison  was  composed  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  Infanterie 
de  la  Marine,  maintained,  no  doubt,  at  considerable  expense,  and 
for  what  present  or  perspective  benefit  it  would  be  difficult  to 
surmise.  The  Governor  was  M.  Fournicr,  the  commander,  also, 
of  a  fine  corvette,  the  Galathee,  moored  near  the  shore  battery. 
He  was  all  prepared  to  give  us  a  warm  reception,  in  caso  our  ship 
had  worn  the  cross  of  St.  George  at  her  peak,  instead  of  a 
Yankee  gridiron,  for  they  were  hourly  anticipating  a  rupture  with 
England,  consequent  upon  the  French  revolution. 

Going  on  shore,  I  made  the  acquaintance  of  a  number  of  polite 
officers  belonging  to  the  garrison,  and  had  also  the  pleasure  of 
meeting  an  old  friend,  a  handsome  young  Enseigne  de  Vaisseau. 
"  Ah  !"  said  he,  "  would  you  believe,  I've  been  here  amid  these 
beasts  of  savages  eighteen  months.  Man  Dieu!  Such  a  monotone 
diablement  horrible/  And  do  you  remember  all  France  was  talk- 
ing of  Du  Petit  T hours  and  this  Paradise  of  Polynesia,  and  I,  like 
a  fool,  was  dazzled,  too  !  Sacre  I  Voila  /"—pointing  to  a  group  of 
copper-tinted  and  tatooed  imps  reclining  under  a  banana  tree 
devouring  raw  fish,  and  sucking  poce  with  their  filthy  fingers — • 
"  and  regard  me  in  a  flannel  jacket,  smoking  pipes,  and  reading, 
for  the  hundredth  time,  old  Revues  des  deux  Mondes  !  perpetually 
sighing  for  those  ravishing  scenes  we  passed  together — those 
dinners  in  the  Bois  de  Bologne — the  races  in  the  alleys  by  moon- 
light— evenings  at  Ranelagh,  when  I  used  to  dance  the  cancan 
with  poor  Reine  Pomaree,  and,  behold,  I've  a  lock  of  her  hair," 
running  to  an  escrutoire  ;  "  and  is  it  not  droll  we  should  meet 
again  five  thousand  leagues  away,  and  so  near  the .  veritable 


384  CHAPTER  XLVI. 

dominions  of  the  great  Pomaree  herself  !"  My  young  friend  had 
cause  truly  to  be  disgusted. 

We  took  a  long  stroll  around  the  beaches  and  valleys  at  the 
head  of  the  harbor,  made  a  number  of  visits,  then  bathed  in  a 
shallow,  discolored  stream  of  mineral  water.  The  district  is  not 
populous,  and,  during  our  sojourn,  the  king  and  many  of  the 
natives  had  gone  to  a  high  heathenish  festival  in  an  adjacent 
valley,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  island.  Since  the  occupation 
by  the  French,  perfect  amity  had  existed  between  the  different  clans 
of  Nukeheva,  where  each  petty  chief  and  people  are  independent 
sovereigns  in  their  romantic  and  secluded  valleys :  not  so  much 
for  mutual  friendship  existing  between  them,  as  in  hatred  to 
their  white  visitors.  The  French  seldom  wandered  to  any  great 
distance  from  their  quarters,  fearing,  possibly,  the  "  anthropopa- 
gian  tastes  of  their  cannibalistic  brethren." 

The  women  were  tall  and  well  shaped,  with  very  much  brighter 
complexions  than  the  Hawaiians,  and,  with  exceptions  of  young 
girls,  were  all  more  or  less  disfigured  by  the  indigo  hues  of  tatoo ; 
the  faces  escaping  with  a  few  delicate  blue  lines,  or  dots,  on  lips  or 
cheeks.  They  all  seemed  complimented,  and  gave  us  every  assist- 
ance in  deciphering  different  designs  engraved  upon  their  persons, 
and  one  buxom  dame,  who  had  a  large  painting  similar  to  the  tail 
of  a  peacock  spread  upon  her  shoulders,  insisted  upon  doffing  her 
drapery  and  preceding  us,  that  we  might  study  its  beauties  with 
every  facility  possible ! 

Many  were  decorated  with  bracelets  and  necklaces  of  leaves  or 
flowers,  and  some  with  anklets  of  human  hair,  toe  nails,  and  other 
valuable  relics.  All  were  perfumed  with  cocoanut  oil,  and 
smeared  with  another  equally  odoriferous  ointment,  which  dyed 
arms  and  faces  a  deep  saffron — neither  cosmetic  was  I  able  to 


KING'S  PALACE  395 


acquire  a  taste  for,  after  repeated  trials  ;  and,  indeed,  I  may 
admit,  that  I  have  never  conquered  a  disgust,  perhaps  engendered 
by  too  nice  a  sense  of  perfume. 

From  a  number  of  unmistakable  signs  and  expressions,  I  pre- 
sumed the  Frances  were  not  entirely  beloved,  even  by  the  women, 
although  the  men  deigned  ludicrous  attempts  in  mode  of  beard, 
moustache,  shrug  of  shoulders,  and  other  little  grimace,  to  copy 
French  dress  and  manner. 

After  bathing,  we  reclined  on  the  thwarts  of  an  immense  war- 
canoe  that  was  hauled  upon  the  beach,  capable  of  holding,  at 
least,  fifty  paddles,  and  amused  ourselves  watching  a  score  of 
young  girls  swimming  in  the  bay  :  they  swam  like  fishes,  but,  as 
there  were  no  surf  or  rocks,  I  had  no  means  of  determining  what 
novel  or  extraordinary  feats  they  were  able  to  perform  :  they  were 
quite  skilful  little  fisher  women,  and  procured  for  us  a  cocoanut- 
shell  full  of  delicious  oysters — no  bigger  than  shilling  pieces — 
which  served  to  pass  the  time  until  we  adjourned  to  the  king's 
house. 

It  was  rather  a  modern  structure — of  roughly-laid  stones  and 
boards — built  by  the  French,  though  falling  to  decay.  There 
was  but  a  single  apartment  of  tolerable  size — floor  and  walls  were 
strewn  with  mats,  stools,  a  couple  of  bedsteads,  spyglasses,  fowl- 
ing-pieces covered  with  rust,  spears,  nets,  calibashcs,  rolls  of 
tappa,  war  conches,  whales'  teeth,  circular  crowns  of  cocks' 
feathers,  besides  an  infinite  variety  of  serviceable  and  useless 
trumpery,  scattered  indiscriminately  around. 

Coiled  up  on  a  low,  beastly  collection  of  mats  and  tappa,  was 
a  repulsive  object,  half  dead  with  some  loathsome  disease,  and 
drunk  with  arva — he  was  the  chief's  brother,  and  was  expected 
17 


386  CHAPTER  XLVI. 


to  die  shortly,  or  be  killed  on  the  return  of  his  sovereign — a  cus- 
tom strictly  observed  with  invalids  and  old,  decrepid  persons. 

Within  a  stone's  throw  of  this  habitation,  was  another  nearly 
completed,  in  native  design.  The  foundation  was  raised  two  feet 
by  a  platform  of  large,  round,  smooth  stones.  The  building 
itself  was  in  shape  of  an  irregular  inverted  acute  angle,  or  trape- 
zoid,  at  the  ends,  with  the  legs  slightly  inclined  outwardly, 
and  resting  on  the  foundation.  Large  upright  shafts  of  polished 
red  wood  supported  roof  and  sides,  which  were  nicely  formed  of 
frames  of  white  poles,  lashed  securely  and  neatly  together  by 
braids  of  parti-colored  sennit,  and  thatched  evenly  and  tastefully 
over  by  the  spear-shaped  leaves  of  the  pandannus,  leaving  the 
front  of  the  dwelling  open  for  light  and  air.  It  presented  a  deal 
of  ingenuity  and  nice  mechanism  in  the  design  and  construction. 

The  French  allow  the  king  sixty  dollars  a-month,  and  I  should 
say,  from  the  careless  appearance  of  his  household,  that  he  made 
a  bad  use  of  it — besides,  he  was  addicted  to  arva,  which  my 
friend  assured  me  was  a  shade  worse  for  the  stomach  than  prussic 
acid.  I  returned  to  the  frigate  in  the  evening,  with  a  party 
planned  to  visit  the  Happar  valley,  whose  beauties  we  had  heard 
much  extolled,  on  the  following  day. 


CHAPTER    XLVII. 

E.ARLY  the  next  morning  I  went  on  shore,  but  duties  of  the 
garrison  prevented  the  officers  from  leaving  until  the  morning 
was  somewhat  advanced — too  late  to  cross  the  dividing  ridges  to 
the  adjacent  glens,  and  we  accordingly  changed  the  destination, 
for  an  excursion  up  the  valley  at  the  head  of  the  harbor. 

A  pair  of  native  boys  preceded  us,  with  baskets.  Walking  briskly 
through  paths  lined  with  thick,  wild  undergrowth  of  tobacco, 
arrow-root,  ginger  and  guavas,  we  mounted  a  number  of  ac- 
clivities, and  then  striking  the  bed  of  a  water-course,  in  two  hours 
reached  a  comparatively  level  space,  which,  my  friend  informed 
me,  was  la  cour  de  Vancienne  Noblesse^  and  the  spot  where  high 
festivals  of  the  Nukehcvans  were  held.  The  court  was  a  paral- 
lelogram, paved  with  smooth,  round  stones,  and  on  three  sides 
surrounded  by  native-built  houses,  unoccupied,  but  very  large 
and  commodious,  all  in  good  repair,  and  ready  for  a  perspective 
feast.  At  the  lower  ends  of  the  square  coursed  a  little  stream, 
and  the  place  was  dark  with  shade  of  lofty  cocoanuts,  bread-fruit, 
iron-wood,  maple  and  gigantic  hibiscus.  All  was  silent,  gloomy 
and  deserted,  the  imperative  decrees  of  Taboo  preserved  it 
sacred  from  native  footsteps,  during  the  intervals  between  their 
sacrifices  and  feasts — even  our  cumulces — boys,  made  a  wide 
circuit,  with  bowed  heads  and  averted  faces. 


CHAPTER    XLVII. 


Closely  scrutinizing  this  field  of  heathenish  revels,  we  continued 
on  up  the  ravine,  and  in  a  few  minutes  familiarly  paid  our  respects 
to  the  King's  father,  by  unceremoniously  boLbing  through  his 
doorway,  and  slapping  him  smartly  on  the  back. 

The  hut  was  large,  in  accordance  with  the  position,  rank  and 
wealth  of  the  owner.  A  trickling  rivubt  in  front  filled  a  scooped- 
out  bowl  in  the  rocks,  some  yards  in  diameter,  and  then  flowed 
over  a  little  natural  channel,  worn  at  the  side,  like  the  gutter  to 
a  fountain.  Around  and  above,  the  cocoanuts  were  rustling  in 
the  sea-breeze. 

We  were  cordially  greeted  by  the  host,  who  was  seated  on  his 
hams  and  heels,  with  no  other  apparel  than  a  maro  wound  around 
the  loins,  and  a  necklace  of  straggling,  snow-white  hairs  hanging 
on  his  meagre  breast ;  it  was  the  honored  beard  of  his  ancestors, 
which  was,  I  suppose,  retained  merely  to  swear  by,  as  it  did  not 
appear  either  valuable  or  ornamental.  He  was  a  remarkable  and 
venerable  Goblin,  and  he  informed  us  that  his  existence  comprised 
nine  hundred  moons.  This  would  have  made  him  somewhere 
verging  on  eighty  years ;  but  he  appeared  as  aged  as  Saturn. 

He  was  tatooed  all  over  the  body  and  limbs,  face  alone  ex- 
empted. It  must  have  occupied  as  much  time  to  delineate  him 
as  it  did  Rafael  to  fresco  the  galleries  of  the  Vatican !  But  his 
hide  was  so  ancient  and  worm-eaten,  that  many  fine  touches  were 
almost  illegible.  Around  his  knees  were  playing  two  little  dusky 
imps,  scarcely  a  year  old !  God  knows  where  they  came  from — 
may  have  been  a  present,  as  it  is  all  the  fashion  among  the 
Marquesans.  Nevertheless,  he  regarded  them  with  the  most 
affectionate  interest,  and  watched  their  every  movement,  even  to 
sucking  his  mouldering  toes  and  pulling  his  grizzly  top-knot,  with 
the  tenderest  solicitude.  Presently  they  crawled  in  front  of  the 


WE  ENJOY  OURSELVES.  389 

dwelling,  and  actually  toddled  into  the  pool.  I  instantly  started 
up  to  fish  them  out,  but  the  old  Goblin  .only  chuckled,  and  the 
little  elfs  kept  bobbing  about  the  surface  of  the  water  with  the 
buoyancy  of  corks — like  junk  bottles  in  a  lea-way — crowing  and 
smiling  bravely.  I  never  was  more  amazed,  and  taking  a  dip 
myself  afterwards,  found  the  basin  up  to  my  neck. 

Native  attendants  soon  produced  clusters  of  cocoanuts,  with  the 
crowns  of  their  heads  knocked  off,  ready  for  consumption.  We 
made  cocoanut-milk  punch — every  man  his  own  punch-bowl ; 
with  a  sprinkle  of  lime-juice,  and  syrup  of  powdered  sugar-cane 
— gently  agitated  within  the  milky  shells — which  made  as  delicious 
a  beverage  as  ever  a  regent  brewed :  it  is  worth  a  trip  to  Poly- 
nesia alone  to  enjoy  it.  Then  exploring  the  resources  of  the 
baskets,  we  discovered  a  case  of  sardines,  bread,  bananas,  and 
oranges ;  made  luncheon,  and  fed  the  children  on  the  crumbs. 

Pipes  were  filled,  and  a  native  boy  quickly  brought  forth  two 
sticks,  and  cutting  the  hardest  to  a  point,  and  holding  the  other 
firmly  fixed  against  a  stone,  began  to  wear  a  groove  with  the 
pointed  stick  in  the  softest  by  a  measured  movement  along  the 
surface.  Presently  a  fine  dust  was  deposited  at  the  lower  end  ; 
the  white  wood  turned  dark ;  quicker  and  quicker,  stronger  and 
stronger  traversed  the  pointed  stick ;  the  dust  began  to  smoke, 
some  dry  fibres  and  leaves  were  laid  across,  and  in  an  instant 
burst  into  a  blaze.  The  operation  lasted  three  or  four  minutes, 
and  was  skilfully  performed.  I  had  plenty  of  lucifers  in  my 
pocket,  but  not  having  witnessed  the  native  process  of  striking 
fire,  and  thinking  a  little  wholesome  exertion  would  not  injure  the 
young  Cttmulee,  I  did  not  produce  them. 

Throwing  ourselves  at  full  length  on  the  mats,  we  devoted  the 
time  to  conversation  and  tobacco.  The  old  Goblin  fascinated  me. 


390  CHAPTER  XL VII. 


I  could  not  remove  my  gaze  from  his  lineaments,  but  by  and  by 
I  opined  that  there  was  a  singular  odor  pervading  the  habitation ; 
and  upon  reflection,  I  experienced  something  unpleasant  upon 
first  entering ;  but  then  there  are  BO  many  villanous  compounds 
surrounding  native  dwellings,  and  being  moreover  deeply  engaged 
brewing  punch,  eating  luncheon,  smoking,  and  surveying  the 
Goblin,  I  forgot  other  matters  for  the  time  being,  until  a  pause  in 
the  conversation  induced  me  to  enquire  the  cause  of  the  annoy- 
ance. Ah  !  said  a  Frenchman,  giving  a  few  agonizing  sniffs,  and 
looking  around :  Ah !  le  void !  Casting  my  eyes  upward,  I 
beheld  a  long  object,  enveloped  in  native  cloth  and  tappa,  hang- 
ing slantingly  across  a  beam,  like  a  fantoccino,  just  before 
throwing  a  summerset  on  the  slack-wire  !  It  was  a  near  rela- 
tive, lately  deceased,  who  from  an  elevated  and  unchristian 
notion  of  respect,  had  been  suspended  under  the  paternal  roof, 
until  dry  enough  to  be  deposited  in  a  raised  native  tomb  of  stones 
and  thatch.  Dropping  the  pipe,  -I  gained  my  feet,  and  bidding 
our  antique  host  a  hasty  farewell,  rushed  into  the  open  air  ;  where, 
after  swallowing  a  modicum  of  eau  de  vie  neat,  I  swore  a  mental 
vow  never  more  to  visit  Nukehevan  nobility ! 

Returning  towards  the  harbor,  we  tarried  to  exchange  a  kind 
word  with  the  Catholic  priest  attached  to  the  garrison.  It  is  need- 
less to  add  that  he  had  made  no  proselytes  among  the  natives, 
and  when,  from  idle  curiosity  or  merriment,  they  attended  mass, 
and  were  under  no  apprehensions  from  France  bayonets,  they 
delighted  themselves  by  mimicking  every  word  and  gesture  of  the 
good  father. 

During  the  jaunt  we  encountered  two  or  three  American  or 
English  vagabonds,  residing  permanently  on  the  island,  subsist- 


THE  WHALING  FLEET.  39! 

ing  on  pace  poee  and  raw  fish,  lost  to  all  the  tastes  and  habits  of 
civilized  society,  making  a  livelihood  by  trading  with  ships  touch- 
ing at  the  group,  or  idolized  by  the  islanders  for  their  skill  in  the 
distillation  of  deleterious  intoxicating  drinks  from  the  dragon- 
tree,  kava,  or  sugar-cane.  They  are  a  class  of  persons,  who,  if 
not  naturally  unprincipled,  are  driven  by  harsh  usage  to  desert 
from  the  whalers,  and  the  contrast  of  the  indolent  voluptuous 
life  of  the  islands,  with  the  hardships  and  disease  of  shipboard, 
is  more  than  sufficient  to  reconcile  them  to  the  change. 

The  whaling  interests  of  the  United  States  have  now  attained 
so  vast  a  magnitude,  that  it  is  high  time  our  government  should 
take  measures  exclusively  for  their  protection  in  these  seas.  The 
enterprise  of  our  hardy  fishermen  has  driven  the  ships  of  all 
other  nations  almost  entirely  off  the  ground  of  competition. 
In  the  Pacific,  and  its  continental  seas  alone,  we  have  a  mighty 
fleet  of  more  than  five  hundred  whale  ships,  manned  in  the 
aggregate  by  twenty  thousand  seamen.  The  larger  portion  of 
these  vessels  are  fitted  for  the  right  whale,  and  seek  their  prey 
on  the  northern  coasts  of  America  or  Asia,  in  high  southern 
latitudes,  and  latterly,  with  extraordinary  success,  on  the  shores 
of  Japan  and  sea  of  Okokts.  The  sperm  fishermen  cruise  near 
the  equator,  and  not  only  are  frequently  surrounded  by  dan- 
gerous navigation,  amidst  islands  or  reefs  little  known,  but  have 
also  to  guard  against  surprise,  and  the  treachery  of  savages  of  the 
uncounted  groups  of  Polynesia ;  unavailingly  at  times,  for,  in 
addition  to  the  long  catalogue  of  crimes  committed  in  this  ocean, 
was  that  of  the  capture  of  the  ship  Triton,  in  December  of  '47, 
by  the  natives  of  Sydcnham  Island — one  of  the  King's  Mill 
cluster — a  number  of  whose  crew  were  inhumanly  massacred. 
It  does  not  necessarily  follow  that  the  natives  are  always  to 


392  CHAPTER  XLVII. 

blame — gross  outrages  sometimes  demand  prompt  vengeance  ; — 
but  yet  a  small  squadron  of  double-decked  corvettes,  of  light 
draught,  and  ample  stowage,  constantly  cruising,  and  touching 
among  these  groups,  would  tend  in  a  great  degree  to  shield  our 
whalers  from  harm,  and  the  natives  themselves  from  the  impo- 
sition and  injustice  so  commonly  practised  upon  them. 

Again,  if  there  were  stringent  laws  for  the  internal  government 
of  this  branch  of  our  marine — were  masters  not  allowed  under 
any  circumstances  to  keep  the  sea  beyond  the  usual  period 
comprised  in  a  fishing  season,  before  visiting  port,  and  the  scurvy 
considered  a  capital  offense,  we  should  meet  with  fewer  instances 
of  desertions  or  mutiny,  and  fewer  diseased,  vicious  vagabonds 
drifting  about  these  islands  at  the  mercy  of  the  natives. 


CHAPTER    XL  VI II. 

ON  the  28th  of  September,  the  well-used  chains  and  anchors 
were  raised  from  their  beds,  and  with  a  light  wind  we  drifted 
slowly  from  the  lonely  bay  of  Anna  Maria.  The  sun  arose  the 
next  morning,  and  a  dim  blue  haze  alone  pointed  to  the  spot  on 
the  ocean  where  lie  the  Marquesas. 

The  fifth  day  after  sailing  from  Nukeheva,  we  approached  the 
north-western  clusters  of  the  Society  group,  and  passed  a  number 
of  low  coralline  islands,  appearing  like  a  raft  of  upright  spars 
adrift  upon  the  sea.  One  was  Kruzenstein's — named  by  Kotzbue, 
in  compliment  to  his  old  commander. 

At  sunrise  of  the  following  day,  we  were  before  Tahiti.  The 
land  rises,  grand  and  imposing,  to  the  elevation  of  seven  thousand 
feet.  One  core-like  ridge  runs  along  the  summit,  branching  off 
into  numberless  steep  valleys  and  acclivities,  down  to  the  water's 
edge.  The  peaks  pierce  the  sky  bold  and  strikingly — thrown  up 
into  the  most  fantastic  and  grotesque  shapes — while  more  singular 
than  all,  cradled  between  a  great  gap  of  the  heights,  is  the 
Diadem  of  Faatoar,  having  a  dozen  pointed  elevations  circling 
around  a  crown,  like  the  serrated  teeth  of  a  saw.  Nearer  towards 
the  bases  of  these  ridges  are  low  points  jutting  into  the  ocean, 
crowded  with  cocoanut  trees — then  a  narrow  belt  of  lagoon,  and 
17* 


394  CHAPTER  XLVIII. 


the  whole  girdled  by  a  snow-white  wreath  of  foam,  embroidered 
on  the  coral  reefs. 

The  morning  was  cloudless.  To  the  southward,  rising  clearly 
and  bright,  tinged  by  the  glorious  sun,  undraped  by  a  single  atom 
of  mist  or  vapor,  was  the  Island  of  Aimeo,  equally  varied  and 
novel  in  its  strange  formations  ;  and  when  at  a  later  day  we  sailed 
around  it,  while  the  different  phases  were  brought  in  clear  relief 
against  the  heavens  —  we  discovered  battlements,  embrasures, 
pyramids  —  ruined  towers  with  terraces  and  buttresses  —  a  cathe- 
dral with  domes  and  spire  —  all  so  fantastically  blended  in  one 
beautifully  verdant  picture,  as  to  leave  the  imagination  in  doubt 
as  to  its  reality  ! 

We  hove  to  in  sight  of  the  harbor  of  Papeetee.  The  French 
ships  of  war,  with  chequered  rows  of  ports,  were  lying  with 
drooping  flags  and  not  a  breath  of  air,  whilst  with  us  the  loud 
trade-wind  was  tearing  crests  from  the  waves,  and  the  frigate 
trembling  under  her  top-sails. 

A  gun,  and  jack  at  the  fore,  and  shortly  there  came  dancing 
over  the  waves,  in  a  whale-boat,  an  officer,  Monsieur  le  Pilot  ! 
Two  hours  we  remained  outside,  awaiting  the  breeze  to  fill  the 
Port  —  and  then  wearing  round,  the  ship  leaped,  replete  with  life 
and  vigor  —  every  seam  of  the  stout  canvas  straining  —  towards 
an  entrance  through  a  coral  gateway.  The  sea  was  light  green 
on  either  side  of  the  aperture,  barely  wide  enough  to  admit  us, 
when,  at  the  turning  point,  the  helm  was  put  down,  and  the 
strong  wind  bore  the  huge  hull  through  the  blue  channel  into  the 
smooth  water  within.  Sails  were  brailed  up,  and  at  the  proper 
moment  down  fell  the  ponderous  anchor  —  splash  —  with  its  unfet- 
tered cable  rumbling  to  the  coral  beds  of  Papeetee  !  What  if 
there  chanced  to  be  a  group  of  mermaids,  parting  their  wet  locks, 


HARBOR  OF  PAPEETEE.  395 

in  the  emerald  villas  below  ?  Nothing  !  Crashing  through  the 
snowy  groves  and  shelly  mansions,  goes  the  ruthless  anchor,  alike 
indifferent  to  all ! 

We  were  locked  in  by  the  reef — no  ungainly  ledge  of  black, 
jagged  rocks — no  frightful  barrier  to  make  tempest-tost  mariners 
shudder — but  a  smooth  parapet  of  coral,  just  beneath  the  surface, 
with  the  outer  face  like  a  bulwark  of  adamant,  where  the  swelling 
billows  vainly  expend  their  rage,  and  then  bubble  rippling  over 
in  a  liquid  fringe  of  creamy  foam. 

Skirting  along  the  semi-circular  shores  of  the  harbor,  is  the 
town  of  Papeetee.  Lines  of  houses  and  cottages  half  smothered 
in  glossy  green  foliage — pretty,  square-built,  veranda'd,  straw- 
colored  dwellings  and  barracks  of  the  French — and  midway 
between  reef  and  shore,  a  little  bouquet  of  an  islet,  teeming  with 
cocoanut,  banian,  bread-fruit  and  the  iron-wood  tree,  with  its 
filmy,  feathery,  delicate  tissue  of  leaves  and  branches — all  droop- 
ing over  a  few  cane-thatched  sheds  and  a  demi-lune  battery  of 
open-mouthed  cannon. 

Night  came,  and  the  breeze  was  done.  Not  a  sigh  disturbed 
the  tranquil  water — the  towering  ships  were  mirrored  and  reflected 
by  the  moonlight — red  fires  were  shedding  twinkling  glooms  from 
fishing  canoes,  through  the  moon's  silver  flame,  athwart  the  spark- 
ling phosphorescent  surf — the  sharp  peaks  of  Tahiti  were  hanging 
high  above,  with  Aimco  dimly  visible  in  the  distance  !  Presently 
bugles  from  the  ships  of  war  rang  out  clear  and  shrill  in  the  calm 
night — drums  rattled — tap — tap — tap — flash — flash — the  nine 
o'clock  guns,  and  as  the  reverberating  echoes  from  the  reports 
went  dying  away  from  valley  to  valley  >  there  came  the  clash  of 
cymbals  from  the  shore,  and  then  the  full  crash  of  a  brass  band, 


396  CHAPTER  XLVIII. 


pouring  forth  the  most  delightful  melody  from  Norma  ;  whilst  the 
low  "  sharing"  roar  on  the  roef  beat  time  in  a  deep  musical  base. 

We  thought  Papeetee  by  far  the  loveliest  spot  that  we  had 
seen,  not  excepting  charming  little  Hilo  ! 

Pomaree's  flag  and  the  French  tricolor  floated  side  by  side.  The 
queen  was  handsomely  pensioned,  as  were  also  the  chiefs,  the  French 
having  kindly  taken  possession  of  their  heritage,  under  a  forcible 
protectorate.  People  may  prate  an  ocean  of  nonsense  about  the 
injustice  of  the  thing,  but  the  fact  is,  France  wished  colonies  in 
the  Pacific — Tahiti  was  one  selected,  and  the  English  themselves 
afforded  an  excellent  pretext  to  make  the  acquisition.  Suppose, 
for  example — Catholics  had  been  first  in  the  field,  and,  by  their 
instigation,  Protestant  or  Puseyite  missionaries  had  been  kicked 
into  the  sea,  would  John  Bull  in  his  lion's  mantle  have  calmly 
beheld  his  subjects  maltreated  for  heresy,  in  striving  to  preach 
the  Gospel  among  the  heathen  ?  No  !  not  without  baring  his 
claws,  and  making  them  felt  in  the  tawny  hides  of  every  savage 
in  Polynesia  !  Ay  !  and,  if  need  be,  in  white  skins,  also,  though 
they  had  been  French  ! 

Then  what  sickly  sympathy  it  is  to  talk  of  the  wrongs  and 
aggressions,  or  the  rights  and  laws  of  European  nations  as  having 
a  bearing  upon  a  handful  of  barbarians,  subjected  to  the  savage 
sway  of  tyrannical  native  masters,  when  contrasted  with  the  bene- 
fits conferred  upon  the  world  at  large,  by  their  being  under  the 
enlightened  rule  of  a  civilized  government ! 

The  French  experienced  hard  fighting  and  much  difficulty  in 
subduing  Tahiti ;  and,  even  after  all  the  trouble,  loss  of  blood 
and  money,  it  seems  highly  probable  that  they  are  dissatisfied 
with  their  conquest,  and  may  shortly  resign  it :  at  any  rate, 
the  expenditure  attending  the  occupation  must  be  very  great,  and 


SOCIETY  ISLANDS.  397 


it  appears  a  mistaken  policy  in  retaining  so  large  a  garrison. 
There  were  thirteen  hundred  troops,  exclusive  of  ships  of  war 
always  in  port,  posted  in  Tahiti — far  more  than  needed  to  over- 
awe the  natives,  and  too  few  to  withstand  a  land  attack  from  a 
foreign  foe.  Trade  is  a  mere  bagatelle — the  French  have  no 
commerce — and  whale-ships  have  deserted  Papeetee,  since  most 
of  the  produce  is  consumed  by  the  garrison.  The  population,  as 
in  all  Polynesia,  are  constitutionally  opposed  to  labor — they  can- 
not bend  their  energies  to  any  steady  employment,  and,  when 
compelled  to  work,  they  pine  away  like  unhappy  monkeys — thus 
the  soil,  though  rich  and  tillable,  is  only  made  to  produce  a  small 
quantity  of  arrow  root,  sugar,  and  cocoanut  oil. 

Fortifications  were  progressing  rapidly,  and  the  harbor  is  very 
susceptible  of  defence.  Two  heavy  batteries,  en  cavalier,  which, 
when  completed,  were  to  mount  sixteen  traversing  guns,  mostly 
eighty-pounder  shells,  will  rake  the  entrance  through  the  reef,  at 
point-blank  range  ;  twelve  more  cannon  on  Pomarec's  little  islet  of 
Motuuata,  cross  the  fire  from  the  shore  battery,  and  sweep  in 
every  direction  over  the  reef-seaward.  There  are  besides,  four 
small  block  houses,  perched  on  the  salient  spurs  of  the  mountains 
in  rear  of  the  town,  with  each  a  long  gun  which  can  be  brought  to 
bear  on  the  harbor.  All  the  world  bear  witness  with  what  skill 
the  French  use  artillery  on  land,  and  it  must  be  an  intrepid  com- 
mander who  attempts  a  demonstration  on  the  island  by  the  harbor 
of  Papeetee. 

The  Governorship  was  placed  in  the  hands  of  M.  Lavaud,  to 
whom,  with  the  officers  of  the  garrison,  and  officers  afloat  of  the 
fine  frigate,  Syrene,  and  steamer,  Gassendi,  we  were  indebted  for 
many  acts  of  courtesy.  They  were  all  extremely  Republican, 
under  their  reversed  tricolor 


398  CHAPTER  XLVIII. 


Since  the  occupation  of  the  Society  and  Marquesas  groups, 
Tahiti  has  been  made  the  See  of  a  bishop.  But  although  the  Ca- 
tholics have  prosecuted  their  labors  with  laudable  and  philanthopic 
zeal,  yet,  strange  as  it  may  be,  they  have  not  met  with  the  same 
success  as  their  fellow  missionaries  in  the  Hawaiian  Islands.  Nor 
have  the  Tahitians,  together  with  the  inhabitants  of  many  of  these 
southern  groups,  forgotten  the  early  truths  taught  them  by  their 
kind  Protestant  teachers,  and  they  still  lament  the  untimely  fate 
of  John  Williams :  a  man  of  the  noblest  piety,  possessed  of  the 
undaunted  resolution  and  industry  of  the  Apostles  of  old,  who  fell 
a  martyr  to  his  faith  and  labors,  among  the  very  savages  he  went 
to  reform. 

There  were  two  excellent  gentlemen,  stationed  at  Papeetee 
from  the  London  Board  of  Protestant  Missions — Messrs.  Howe 
and  Thompson — who,  if  sound  sense,  unbiassed  by  narrow-minded 
sectarian  prejudice,  combined  with  great  practical  information 
and  knowledge  of  the  native  character,  can  be  of  service  in  their 
mission,  they  have  indeed  the  true  elements  of  success.  From 
the  opportunities  we  had  of  judging  in  Papeetee  and  the  vicinity, 
there  certainly  was  exhibited  a  moi-e  modest  and  correct  deport- 
ment among  the  natives  than  we  observed  elsewhere  ;  and  although 
morality,  strictly  speaking,  is  unknown,  there  was  still  less  out- 
ward licentiousness  visible  than  was  a  matter  of  hourly  occur- 
rence in  the  other  groups. 

Note.— In  all  the  lighter  sketches  upon  Polynesia,  I  cannot  resist  paying  the  faint 
tribute  of  my  own  individual  admiration  to  Mr.  Melville.  Apart  from  the  innate  beauty 
and  charming  tone  of  his  narratives,  the  delineations  of  Island  life  and  scenery,  from 
my  own  personal  observation,  are  most  correctly  and  faithfully  drawn. 

At  Nukeheva  and  Tahiti  I  made  inquiry  about  his  former  associates,  and  without  in 
the  least  designing  to  sully  the  enchanting  romance  of  his  fair  Typee  love,  I  may 
mention  having  seen  a  "nut-brown"  damsel,  named  Fayaway,  from  that  valley,  who 
apparently  was  maid  of  all  work  to  a  French  Commissary  of  the  garrison.  She  was 
attired  in  a  gaudy  yellow  robe  de  chambre,  ironing  the  Crapeau's  trowsers  !  Credo* 


THE  EMBROCATION.  399 


Judeus  !  There  was  also  a  diminutive  young  oui  oui  tumbling  about  the  mats,  so  it  is 
presumable  she  had  become  childish  of  late  ;  yet  the  proof  is  not  strong,  for  it  is  quite 
as  much  in  vogue  among  these  southern  groups  to  change  names  and  give  away 
infants,  as  the  fashion  in  the  Sandwich  Islands  of  knocking  out  a  couple  of  front 
teeth  to  evince  grief  at  the  decease  of  near  friends  or  relatives,  and  the  nymph  alluded 
to  may  not  be  the  original  Fayaway  after  all. 

Mr.  Melville's  friend,  Dr.  Johnstone,  whom  he  has  immortalized  in  Omoo,  was 
excessive  wroth,  and  refused  to  be  pacified,  resolving  shortly  to  prosecute  the 
English  publishers  for  libel.  H6  politely  permitted  me  to  transcribe  some  items  from 
his  dose  book,  declaring,  however,  that  the  "  embrocation  "  so  relished  by  the  Long 
Ghost,  was  a  villanous  preparation,  having  the  least  taste  of  gin  in  the  world,  and 
made  up  from  laudanum,  turpentine,  and  soap  linament  !  Here  is  the  memorandum  : — 

(i  Ship,  Lucy  Ann,  Captain  Vinton. 
October  loth,  1842.    Melvil  Herman.    Stocks. 

Embrocation ; 75 

19th.         Do 75 

$1  50  » 

I  felt  no  inclination  to  task  it,  since  I  found  the  Doctor's  other  prescriptions  unex- 
ceptionable. The  Ghost  must  have  been  seriously  indisposed  ;  he  had  a  large  quan- 
tity :  was  supposed  at  the  period  of  our  visit  to  be  in  Sydney,  or  after  gold  in 
California,  but,  with  his  ubiquitous  propensities,  may  have  been  in  both  places. 
Captain  Bob,  of  the  Calaboosa,  was  I;  muckee-moi,"  so  was  Father  Murphy,  all  under 
the  sod.  Charming  Mrs.  Bell  had  taken  to  hard  drink,  before  Mr.  Melville's  rencontre, 
and  may  have  been  slightly  elevated  on  that  occasion.  II.  M.  ci-devant  Consul,  Mr. 
Wilson,  was  in  the  like  vinous  state,  and  occupied  his  leisure  in  the  pursuit  of  shells 
at  the  Navigator  Islands.  Shorty  was  still  devoting  his  talents  to  the  culture 
of  potatoes  at  Aimeo,  and  strongly  suspected  of  shooting  his  neighbor's  cattle. 


CHAPTER    XLIX. 

THE  rain  fell  in  torrents  the  day  succeeding  our  arrival,  and 
it  was  not  until  Sunday  that  I  had  courage  to  set  foot  on  shore  : 
then  I  went  solus,  and  jumping  on  the  beach,  two  minutes'  walk 
found  me  in  the  Broom  Road,  a  broad  lane  running  nearly 
the  entire  circuit  of  Tahiti,  within  a  stone's  throw  of  the  surf- 
locked  lagoons,  shaded  like  a  bower  by  magnificent  trees  and 
undergrowth,  that  hang  their  drooping,  green  arms  in  grateful 
coolness,  to  shield  the  traveller  from  the  heat  of  tropical  suns. 
Notwithstanding  mud  from  recent  <  rains,  the  roads  and  lateral 
paths  were  thronged  with  natives :  I  was  surprised  to  find  them 
so  much  superior  in  physical  mould  and  beauty  to  those  of  other 
islands  we  had  visited.  The  men  were  well  proportioned,  and 
some  with  a  noble  bearing ;  the  women  were  very  tall,  scarcely 
one  less  than  five  feet  eight ;  many  of  the  young  girls  were  exqui- 
sitely shaped,  with  small  hands  and  fee,t.  Moreover,  they  had 
borrowed  a  nicer  taste  in  dress  from  the  French,  and  their  gowns 
and  bonnets  were  very  becomingly  worn. 

I  splashed  and  trudged  about  the  Broom  Road  until  evening, 
and  then,  following  the  tide  of  population,  entered  the  well  laid 
out  grounds  of  the  gubernatorial  mansion.  The  lawns  and 
alleys  were  crowded  with  natives,  officers  and  soldiers,  listening  to 
the  evening  music;  this  over,  I  devoted  the  evening  wandering 


BROOM  ROAD  OF  TAHITI.  401 


from  cafe  to  cafe,  and  wondering  if  I  were  in  France  or  Tahiti. 
Lights  were  gleaming  from  every  little  aubcrge  and  cabaret  of 
the  town — the  tables  within  covered  with  pipes  and  bottles  of  rod 
wine — soldiers  were  drinking  and  chanting  favorite  songs  of  Ber- 
anger;  and  one  inebriated  sapper,  meeting  me  in  the  road,  placed 
both  hands  on  my  shoulders,  and  roared  out,  with  but  an  indif- 
ferent appreciation  of  music : 

"  J'ai  connu  Moreau — Victor — Augerau — 
Et  Murat— Et  Massen— a— a— 

Vash  a  fling  a  flong — tra  a  long,  a  long —  !" 

The  streets  were  filled  with  groups  of  gaily-attired  native  girls, 
who,  with  low,  musically  laughing  voices,  were  chattering  their 
soft,  vowelly  dialect,  unceasingly,  interrupted  occasionally  by  some 
gallant  Frenchman,  who  would  perhaps  give  a  stray  damsel  a 
chuck  under  the  chin,  or  a  hasty  clasp  around  the  waist,  and 
pass  on,  regardless  of  their  lively  sallies.  Then  overgrown 
gend'armes  would  be  perceptible  in  the  distance,  by  their  white 
cotton  aguillettes  and  clashing  sabres,  when  the  nymphs  would 
disappear  like  frightened  partridges  amid  the  adjacent  groves, 
and  all  were  hushed  in  an  instant,  until  the  dreadful  police  had 
passed  by,  when  they  would  again  emerge  and  occupy  their  for- 
mer ground.  Then,  too,  the  light  yellowish  tinge  of  plastered 
houses,  so  often  seen  in  France — the  thatched  cane  huts  of  the 
natives — sentinels  pacing  the  ramparts — near  by,  a  brass  field- 
piece  gazing  up  the  road — and  beneath  the  spreading  bread  fruit, 
or  under  the  stately  trunk  of  a  cocoanut,  a  soldier  in  red  breeches, 
resting  on  the  shining  barrel  of  his  musket.  All  this,  with  the  pro- 
fusion of  tropical  foliage,  the  grand  scenery  of  the  island,  and  a 
thousand  other  novel  scenes,  so  strangely  contrasted  with  dcmi-bar- 


402  CHAPTER  XLIX. 


tare  life,  that  I  became  quite  bewildered,  and  was  glad  to  make  the 
acquaintance  of  an  agreeable  French  officer,  who,  with  a  bottle 
of  Bourdeaux,  soon  brought  me  to  my  senses. 

I  passed  the  night  on  shore,  in  the  warehouse  of  an  American 
merchant,  and  should  probably  have  slept  well,  in  defiance  of 
musquitoes,  had  not  a  choice  coterie  of  sous-officer s,  in  an  adjoining 
cabaret,  within-arm's  length  of  my  window,  made  vociferous 
music,  by  screaming  Republican  airs  until  daylight,  very  much 
incited,  no  doubt,  by  continual  cries  of  Encore  du  vin,  man 
cher^  and  the  usual  ringing  accompaniment  of  bottles  and 
glasses. 

Rising  betimes,  I  donned  walking  dress,  and  after  breakfast,  in 
company  with  my  friend  Larry  and  an  officer  of  the  French  Ma- 
rine, who  spoke  the  Tahitian  dialect  perfectly  well,  we  left  Papeetee 
for  an  excursion  up  the  Broom  Road  towards  Point  Venus. 

The  rain  had  quenched  the  dust,  and  there  was  a  grateful 
freshness  clinging  around  the  lime  and  orange  groves.  The  sun 
had  not  yet  drank  the  sparkling  diamond-drops  of  dew  trembling 
upon  the  guava  thickets,  nor  had  the  bre'eze  shaken  a  leaf  of  the 
towering  cocoanuts,  nor  vibrated  a  single  sphere  of  bread-fruit 
that  hung  like  pendulums  from  amid  the  glossy  leaves.  The  air, 
too,  was  heavy  with  perfume  of  orange  and  jessamine — and  we 
went  larking  along  the  quiet  road — kicking  up  our  heels  and 
whooping  joyously- — pausing  a  moment  to  catch  a  gleaming  view 
of  the  slender  peaks  above  us — the  conspicuous  Diadem  of  Faa- 
toar — the  green  savannahs  sloping  up  the  valleys,  or  the  blue  sea 
and  reef  as  yet  undazzled  by  the  rising  sun. 

We  dallied  frequently  with  young  cocoanuts,  and  said  aroha — 
love  to  you — to  any  lithe  vahinees  we  encountered  in  our  path. 
Once  we  tarried  for  repose  and  beer  at  a  French  auberge,  and 


POMAREE'S  PALACE    AT  PAPOA.  4Q3 


then,  without  further  break  to  our  voyage,  we  continued  on  along 
the  curves  of  the  reef-locked  shores  for  some  miles,  when  a  lane 
branched  away  to  the  left,  and  we  came  to  the  new  country  house 
of  Pomaree  at  Papoa. 

It  stands  on  a  narrow  coralline  embankment,  within  a  bound 
of  the  smooth,  pebbly  beach — surrounded  by  noble  trees,  and 
overhanging  clusters  of  the  richest  tropical  foliage.  Tho  building 
is  an  oblong  oval,  one  hundred  feet  by  thirty.  Through  the 
centre  runs  a  range  of  square,  polished  columns  of  light  koa  wood, 
eighteen  feet  high,  supporting  a  cross-sleeper  the  whole  length  of 
the  roof:  from  this  beam,  drooping  down  at  an  angle  of  about 
fifty  degrees,  were  a  great  number  of  white,  glistening  poles, 
radiating  with  perfect  evenness  and  regularity  to  within  six  feet 
of  the  ground,  where  they  were  notched  and  tied  securely  with 
braids  of  variegated  sennit  to  ridge-pieces  fitted  in  posts  around 
the  circuit  of  the  building.  The  roof  was  thatched  with  the  long, 
dried,  tapering  leaves  of  pandannus,  folded  on  slim  wands,  and 
plaited  in  regular  lines,  down  to  the  eaves,  where,  just  within, 
fell  a  few  inches  of  plain  fringed  matting  nicely  stitched  to  the 
roof.  Inside  this  curtain,  again,  were  the  perpendicular  sides  of 
the  dwelling,  constructed  of  the  same  white  poles  of  hibiscus  as 
those  upholding  the  roof,  and  all  lashed  by  braid  to  cross  sections 
between  the  posts — leaving  narrow  spaces  between  each  pole,  and 
but  two  arches  for  doorways  on  the  side  opposite  the  sea. 

The  house  was  quite  new,  and  indeed  hardly  completed,  but 
with  the  breeze  blowing  through  the  open  trellis-worked  walls, 
and  the  great  lofty  roof  hanging  lightly  above,  it  presented  the 
most  airy,  fanciful  structure  conceivable,  and  was  admirably 
adapted  to  the  climate  and  habits  of  the  Islanders. 

The  floor  was  carpeted  with  dried  grass  and  rushes,  six  inches 


404  CHAPTER  XLIX. 


deep ;  mats  were  scattered  around,  groups  of  swarthy  natives 
were  lounging  listlessly  on  the  grass,  and  bands  of  girls  and 
women  engaged  weaving  mats,  scraping  cocoanut  shells  to  trans 
parent  thinness,  playing  cards,  or  sleeping  on  the  laps  of  others. 

The  Queen  was  absent  on  a  visit  to  the  island  of  Airneo.  She 
was  described  as  a  brave,  temperate,  fat  old  lady  of  about  forty 
years,  who  has  never  yet  been  able  to  overcome  youthful  preju- 
dices against  European  style  of  living — and  although  the  French 
have  built  and  furnished  her  a  pleasant  residence  in  Papeetee,  she 
is  still  happy  to  kick  off  etiquette,  with  her  shoes,  and  fly  to  native 
pleasures  and  kindred.  She  was  blessed  with  a  large  family,  and 
six  were  being  educated  in  Aimeo  by  the  English  Mission,  who 
with  great  liberality  would  voluntarily  defray  the  expenses  of 
their  education,  as  well  as  of  the  children  of  the  high  chiefs  ;  but 
the  Governor  very  properly  sets  aside  portions  of  their  pensions 
for  that  purpose,  which  is  undoubtedly  the  best  use  the  money 
can  be  put  to.  As  Pomaree  detests  the  French,  and  cannot  be 
persuaded  to  assume,  except  for  a  moment,  European  manners 
and  customs,  she  neither  assumes  any  of  their  virtues,  but  leads 
a  rollicking,  sportive  life,  surrounded  by  gay  troupes  of  frolicsome 
attendants — spending  the  remainder  of  her  five  thousand  dollar 
Stipend  in  decking  her  dark-eyed  favorites  with  pretty  dresses 
and  trinkets. 

Mr.  Ellis  has  written  an  interesting  poem,  filled  with  virtuous 
indignation  in  relation  to  the  poor  Queen's  wrongs,  and  there  is 
one  couplet  which  is  unfortunately  too  true — 

"  Who  would  believe  that  England  would  have  left 
That  trusting  Queen  thus  suffering  and  bereft?" 

The  fact  is,  the  beautiful  princess  Aimata  that  was,  is  now  by 


QUEEN  POMAREE.  405 


her  own  imprudence  low  in  purse,  and  having  acquired  the  habit 
of  coquetting  too  extensively  with  tradesmen  and  merchants  of 
Papeetee,  she  finds  difficulty  in  getting  trusted  before  her  pension 
falls  due.  Still,  with  all  her  foibles,  she  was  universally  acknow- 
ledged to  be  a  woman  of  strong  sense  and  character,  adored  by 
her  subjects,  and  respected  by  foreigners. 

After  idling  an  hour  with  a  few  of  the  young  ladies  of  the  court, 
who  were  making  preparations  for  their  sovereign's  reception, 
we  left  the  Palace,  and  keeping  along  the  shelly  strand,  passed 
through  a  sacred  grove  of  iron-wood,  whose  gauze-like  branches 
waved  over  the  tombs  of  the  ancient  kings  of  Tahiti.  There 
was  naught  to  be  seen,  save  heaps  of  mouldering  coral  ruins — 
thence  crossing  a  point  of  the  reef,  which  closed  upon  the  beach, 
we  reached  one  of  many  indentations  of  the  Island,  Matavai  bay, 
and  shortly  afterwards  came  upon  a  native  school -house.  The 
building  was  large  and  dilapidated — the  rush-laid  floor  was  occu- 
pied with  forms  for  the  scholars,  who  were  seated  about  in  itows. 
Some  of  the  girls  had  very  pretty,  attractive  faces,  and  nearly  all 
of  both  sexes  wore  around  the  brow  and  hair,  chaplets  of  braid 
entwined  with  red  and  white  flowers — orange  or  jessamine — having 
tasteful  tassels  of  fresh  blossoms  hanging  down  behind  the  ear. 
They  were  not  the  most  quiet  school  in  the  world,  but  applied  to 
their  tasks  with  great  spirit  and  quickness.  The  teacher  was  au 
odd  fish  in  his  way — of  the  dwarf  species — scarcely  five  feet  in 
altitude — but  from  his  peculiar  build,  he  looked  to  me  growing 
larger  and  lai-ger  every  instant.  The  head  was  immense — hair 
white  and  cropped — the  face  expressed  firmness-,  benevolence  and 
intelligence.  His  body  and  arms  were  those  of  a  giant,  while 
the  lower  limbs  tapered  away  to  nothing,  half  shrouded  in  blue 
tappa,  and  over  all  he  wore  a  flowing,  yellow  shirt. 


406  CHAPTER  XLIX. 


The  roll  was  called,  and  I  noticed  a  few  urchins,  who  were 
tardy  in  arriving,  whimpering,  from  which  I  surmised  they  were  at 
times  indulged  with  the  bamboo.  A  hymn  was  sung  in  good 
time  ;  and  although  the  girls  had  soft  clear  voices,  there  was  little 
musical  taste.  In  conclusion,  an  extemporaneous  prayer  was 
made — all  kneeling — by  a  venerable  native,  who  was  afflicted, 
like  many  of  his  race,  with  elephantiasis.  At  the  word  "  Amen," 
the  little  pupils  gave  a  joyous  whoop,  and  leaped  pell-mell 
through  the  doorways. 

Returning  by  the  Broom  Roaa,  which  is  never  beyond  a  few 
yards  from  the  sea,  we  paid  a  visit  to  another  hencoop  habitation, 
owning  for  its  lord,  Arupeii,  brother  to  the  Queen's  last  husband, 
and  his  wife  a  cousin  to  Pomaree  herself.  They  were  a  fine- 
looking  couple,  and  the  chieftainess,  with  her  pretty  baby,  struck 
me  as  particularly  handsome. 

Dinner  was  preparing,  and  we  passed  the  time  pleasantly, 
lounging  on  mats,  and  smoking  pipes.  The  first  preparation  for 
the  feast  was  made  by  a  plump  girl,  in  an  extremely  brief  petti- 
coat, who  ascended  a  tree  above  our  heads,  and  picked  an  armful 
of  broad  round  leaves,  which  afterwards  were  used  for  a  table- 
cloth. They  were  carefully  lapped  one  upon  the  other  in  rows 
on  the  ground,  and  mats  and  low  stools  placed  near  them.  The 
girl,  whom  we  christened  Jack,  from  a  peculiar  roll  in  her  gait, 
assisted  by  two  more  attendants,  ranged  a  close  platoon  of 
youthful  cocoanuts,  with  mouths  open  like  lids,  along  the  centre 
of  the  board  ;  on  either  side  were  laid  transparent  shell  goblets — 
the  dark  filled  with  sea- water  and  the  light  with  fresh.  Thus 
much  for  the  table-service.  Now  came  in  on  a  huge  wooden 
platter  a  baked  pig,  his  dear  little  trotters,  tail,  and  even  to  the 
extremity  of  his  snout,  crisped  and  browned  most  invitingly.  In 


WE  DINE  WITH  NOBILITY.  407 


a  trice  Jack  twisted  a  brace  of  leaves  around  her  fingers,  seized 
the  tempting  grunter,  and  hey !  presto  !  no  articulator  of  anato- 
mical celebrity,  no,  not  even  the  professional  carver  mentioned 
by  Sir  Walter,  who  dissected  becaficos  into  such  multitudes  of 
morsels,  could  have  more  cunningly  divided  the  dish,  giving  each 
of  the  company  an  equal  share.  Now  came  a  stack  of  roasted 
bread-fruit.  Jack,  with  gloves  of  more  fresh  leaves  on  her 
hands,  peeled,  halved,  tore  out  the  seeds,  and  tossed  them  from 
platter  to  table,  with  the  dexterity  of  a  juggler  at  his  tricks. 
Then  there  came  piles  of  taro,  and  snow-white  yams ;  heaps  of 
oranges,  and  golden  pineapples,  with  bunches  of  bananas  in  the 


We  were  six  at  table,  seated,  a  la  Turque,  on  mats.  The 
servants  first  handed  shells  of  fresh  water ;  and,  by  the  way, 
every  one  knows  who  invented  steam-engines,  playing-cards,  and 
pin-making ;  yet  in  the  absence  of  positive  information,  I  claim 
the  finger-glass  as  of  Tahitian  origin,  and  wish  it  to  be  generally 
understood.  Then  falling  to,  and  with  a  fragment  of  bread-fruit 
crushed  within  the  hand,  and  a  delicate  bit  of  crisped  pig  dipped 
in  salt-water,  by  way  of  castors,  we  munched  and  sucked  our 
disrits  alternately,  until  the  heavy  edibles  were  well  nigh  con- 
sumed ;  when  laving  again,  dessert  of  fruits  were  distributed,  the 
goblets  once  more  went  round,  we  rinsed  our  throats  with  cocoa- 
nut  milk,  and  thus  ended  the  feast.  We  had  a  chasse  of  pipes 
and  brandy ;  but  this  last  was  purely  an  innovation  on  a  native 
dinner. 

Our  comely  hostess  was  treated  with  great  deference  and 
respect,  none  of  the  attendants  presuming  to  sit  in  her  presence  ; 
indeed,  we  were  entertained  by  distinguished  nobs  of  the  true 
Tahitian  nobility,  and  all  was  mailai.  Previous  to  the  repast, 


408  CHAPTER  XL1II 


we  had  dispatched  a  courier  on  horseback  to  the  Port  for  wine, 
and,  before  dark,  he  returned,  with  but  the  breakage  of  a  single 
bottle,  and  somewhat  inebriated — so  we  judged  he  had  broken 
the  vessel  after  tasting  the  contents  ;  but  the  matter  was  not 
satisfactorily  proven  ;  there  was  still  abundance,  and  the  cups 
circulated  freely. 

The  pretty  chieftainess  smiled,  the  baby  took  a  sip  and  crowed 
like  a  chicken.  Arupeii  facing  me,  cross-legged,  laughed  out- 
right, and  related  by  signs,  and  a  few  words  I  could  comprehend, 
many  reminiscences  of  war  and  battles — ships  of  war  and  their 
commanders,  with  unpronounceable  names — all  of  whom,  I  assured 
him,  were  my  intimate  friends  and  near  relations. 

Later  in  the  evening,  we  walked  to  a  running  stream  hard  by, 
and,  with  the  full  moon  above  us,  and  while 

''  Hesper,  the  star  with  amorous  eye, 
Shot  his  fine  sparkle  from  the  deep  blue  sky," 

twinkling  over  the  grotesque  heights  of  Aimeo,  the  air  laden  with 
the  odor  of  orange  and  jessamine,  we  waded  into  the  brook,  and 
diverted  ourselves  by  plashing  water  upon  a  group  of  maids  of 
honor  who  had  followed  us. 

Before  we  knew  it,  a  heavy  black  cloud  had  stolen  from  the 
shade  of  the  high  mountains,  and  we  had  barely  time  to  snatch 
our  garments  from  the  grass  and  scamper  through  the  grove, 
before  the  rain  was  upon  us  :  it  passed  as  quickly — the  wine  was 
exhausted — the  chieftainess  presented  me  with  a  shell  goblet,  and 
bidding  good  night  to  our  noble  entertainers  we  were  escorted  to 
the  palace  of  Pomaree,  where  the  chief  in  waiting  had  large  fine 
mats  laid  for  couches,  curtained  by  rolls  of  tappa,  and  with  the 
moonlight  glancing  on  the  foaming  reef,  visible  through  the  cage- 


WE  BLEEP  AT  PAPOA. 


409 


built  house,  and  the  water  rippling  on  the  sandy  shore,  we  betook 
ourselves  to  rest.  Our  repose  was  shortly  disturbed  by  a  regi- 
ment of  juveniles  who  marched  before  the  palace,  chaunting, 
with  great  vociferation,  the  Marseilles  hymn,  giving  the  word 
"  battalion"  in  full  chorus ;  then,  much  to  our  astonishment, 
they  struck  up  "  Jim  along,  Josey,"  and  concluded  the  opera 
with  "  Dan  Tucker,"  set  to  native  words.  At  this  stage  of  the 
concert,  our  host,  by  request,  made  a  few  remarks,  and  the  per- 
formers vanished. 

Fleas  were  excessively  troublesome,  and,  during  the  night,  to 
get  rid  of  the  annoyance,  we  had  several  dips  in  the  lagoon, 
which  was  an  easy  matter,  since  the  water  was  nearly  at  the  foot 
of  our  couches.  Once  I  was  on  the  point  of  shifting  my  bed  of 
mats  to  the  beach,  under  a  clump  of  cocoanuts,  but  our  host 
would  not  hear  of  it — declaring  it  was  ita  maitai  !  ita  maitai  ! — 
impossible  f  not  good !  Indeed  I  afterwards  found  the  practice 
was  never  indulged  in  by  the  natives — for  should  one  of  these 
heavy  nuts — and  they  are  very  large — many  containing  a  full 
quart  of  milk,  to  say  nothing  of  the  weight  of  shell  and  husk — 
falling  from  an  elevation  of  nigh  an  hundred  feet,  chance  to  alight 
on  the  cocoanut  of  the  sleeper,  it  is  reasonable  to  suppose  it 
would  damage  his  ideas  or  slumber  :  besides,  large  rats  ascend  the 
trees,  and  sometimes  detach  the  fruit,  while  knawing  into  the 
tender  nut :  crabs,  too,  the  sagacious  creatures,  crawl  up  the 
trunks  whose  branches  incline  over  the  rocky  shores,  cut  the  stem 
with  their  claws,  and  the  concussion  attending  the  fall  splits  them 
wide  open,  or  cracks  them  ready  for  eating.  I  never  saw  them 
at  these  pranks,  but  have  the  information  from  reliable  authority. 
As  the  daylight  guns  from  the  Port  of  Papeetee  came  booming 
and  echoing  among  the  mountains,  we  sprang  to  our  feet,  swal- 
18 


410  CHAPTER  XLIX. 


lowed  a  cooling  draught  of  cocoanut  milk,  enjoyed  another  bathe 
in  the  stream,  and  then  trudged  gaily  back  to  town. 

A  few  days  later,  we  were  visited  by  our  hospitable  friend, 
Arupeii !  He  was  shown  every  attention,  and,  at  the  usual  hour, 
placed  his  heels  under  the  gun-room  mahogany.  He  dispensed 
with  forks,  and  ate  indiscriminately  of  viands,  vegetables,  and 
other  dainties  ;  occasionally  storing  away  bits  of  bread  and  ham 
in  the  flowing  bosom  of  his  shirt,  for,  no  doubt,  a  more  convenient 
season.  He  never  let  a  bottle  pass  him,  either  of  port,  sherry,  or 
malt,  appreciating  brandy  most,  and  having  a  fancy  for  drinking 
all  from  tumblers.  With  these  little  solecisms,  he  got  on  famously, 
and,  at  the  termination  of  the  dinner,  patted  his  portly  person 
and  shouted  maitai. 

I  do  not  know  whether  it  be  considered  with  the  Tahitian  aris- 
tocracy complimentary  to  covet  a  neighbor's  goods,  but  certainly 
my  stout  chieftain  was  the  most  shameless  beggar  I  ever  remem- 
bered to  have  any  dealings  with.  He  volunteered  to  accept  hat- 
bands, plugs  of  tobacco,  sealing  wax,  pistols,  newspapers,  any- 
thing and  everything  he  saw,  until,  at  the  end  of  the  third  glass 
of  strong  waters  after  dinner,  he  requested,  as  a  particular  favor, 
the  mess  candlesticks,  when,  losing  all  patience,  I  told  him  his 
boat  was  waiting,  so  he  hitched  up  his  trousers,  offered  to  rub 
noses,  and  with  a  present  for  his  handsome  wife  stowed  in  the 
capacious  shirt,  we  shook  hands,  and  away  he  paddled  on  shore. 
This  was  the  last  we  saw  of  Arupeii. 

The  frigate  was  always,  Sundays  excepted,  surrounded  by  canoes 
filled  with  the  natives,  and  they  must  have  made  a  golden  har- 
vest, to  judge  from  the  immense  quantities  of  fruits  constantly 
coming  over  the  gangways — so  great  was  the  demand  for  cocoa- 
nuts,  that  they  were  rafted  off  from  the  shore  in  strings,  like 


ISLET  OF   MOTUUATA.  411 

water-casks.  The  canoes  were  awkwardly  hewn  out  of  rough 
logs,  with  ill-arranged,  misshapen  outriggers  ;  quite  unlike  the 
buoyant,  swift  little  water  vehicles  of  the  Sandwich  Islanders. 

One  day,  attended  by  a  tidy  little  reefer,  we  hired  a  clumsy, 
crazy  equipage,  with  a  copper  and  indigo-colored  monster  in  the 
stern  to  paddle  us  about  the  reef  and  harbor.  It  was  low  water,  and 
as  our  canoe  drew  but  an  inch  or  two  of  water  outside — she  was 
half-full  inside — we  were  able  to  skim  over  the  shallowest  parts ; 
and,  by  the  by,  there  is  a  strange  anomaly  in  the  tides  of  Papee- 
tee,  which  are  not  in  the  least  influenced  by  the  moon — there  are 
many  ways  of  accounting  for  it — I  only  speak  of  the  fact — we 
ever  found  a  full  sea  at  twelve,  and  low  water  at  six. 

In  many  places,  a  few  feet  below  the  surface,  we  glided  over 
what  seemed  the  most  exquisite  submarine  flower-gardens,  corals 
of  all  colors,  and  of  every  imaginable  shape — plant,  sprig,  and 
branching  antlers — of  purple,  blue,  white,  and  yellow — variegated 
star  and  shell  fish,  and  narrow  clear  blue  chasms  and  fissures  of 
unfathomable  depths  between  ;  but  what  was  equally  beautiful  to 
behold,  schools  of  superbly-colored  fishes  swimming  and  darting 
about  in  the  high  blue  rollers  as  raising  their  snowy  crests  just 
before  breaking  upon  the  outer  wall  of  the  reef,  the  finny  tribes 
were  held  in  a  transparent  medium,  like  that  seen  through  a 
crystal  vase. 

A  heavy  shower  interrupted  our  aquatic  researches,  and  we 
sought  shelter  on  Pomaree's  diminutive  island  of  Motuuata.  It 
hardly  covers  an  acre,  but  is  a  most  charming  retreat  beneath  the 
drooping  foliage,  and  I  did  not  wonder  at  the  jolly  queen's  taste. 
She  never  goes  there  now :  the  Frances  were  busy  with  pick  and 
barrow  on  parapet  and  bastion ;  blacksmiths  and  artizans  were 
hammering  away  at  the  forges,  and,  beneath  the  trees  and  sheds. 


412  CHAPTER  XLIX. 


soldiers  and  sailors  were  munching  long  rolls  of  bread  and  drink- 
ing red  wine.  Who  can  wonder  that  the  poor  Queen  has  for- 
saken her  former  haunts,  when  her  cane-built  villas  are  polluted 
by  foreign  tread,  and  the  weeping  groves  that  sheltered  her 
troops  of  languishing  revellers,  the  "  cushions  of  whose  palms" 
had  clasped  the  smooth  trunks  of  all — where  merriment,  games, 
feast,  and  wassail  went  on  unceasingly,  in  all  the  native  abandon- 
ment of  island  life  and  pleasure ;  now  to  have  those  scenes 
so  changed  by  red-breeched  Frames — the  shelly  shores  tossed 
with  stone  and  mortar  into  embankments  for  dreaded  cannon,  and 
the  grove  resounding  with  stunning  sound  of  hammer  and  anvil. 
Alas  !  poor  Pomaree !  recall  the  bright  days  of  your  girlhood, 
and  curse  the  hour  when  you  invited  the  stranger  to  your  king- 
dom. 


CHAPTER    L. 

Early  one  morning  the  Governor  and  myself  left  the  ship  at 
gunfire,  for  a  pic-nic  among  the  mountains.  We  met  with  no 
more  serious  adventure  in  our  transit  from  the  frigate  to  the  beach, 
than  the  capsizing  a  barrel  of  bread,  by  our  stupid  Italian  valet, 
belonging  to  the  baker's  bumboat,  in  which  we  had  been  kindly 
offered  a  passage  to  the  shore.  The  loaves  went  floating  all  about 
the  harbor,  and  we  were  some  minutes  rescuing  the  manna  from 
Neptune's  pocket.  Without  further  mishap  we  went  straight  to 
the  domicile  of  an  English  gentleman,  who  had  politely  planned 
the  party.  All  was  prepared,  and  we  set  off  as  the  troops  of  the 
garrison  were  filing  into  the  parade  ground  for  weekly  review, 
and  a  very  creditable  and  soldierly  appearance  they  presented. 

We  made  quite  a  respectable  battalion  ourselves,  so  far  as 
numerical  force  went.  In  advance  trotted  a  vigorous  taatay  with 
a  couple  of  large,  native  baskets  slung  by  a  pole  over  his  shoul- 
ders, loaded  with  bottles  and  provender ;  at  his  heels,  our  own 
unfortunate  esquire,  Giacomo.  The  Governor,  our  English  friend 
and  myself,  constituted  the  main  body,  and  the  rear  guard  was 
composed  of  three  laughter-loving  damsels — straight  and  tall — 
with  an  easy  grace  of  motion,  like  willows.  One  was  housekeeper 
to  our  friend,  and  the  most  beautiful  woman  in  face  and  form  we 


414  CHAPTER  L. 


had  seen  in  all  the  islands.  Her  figure  wa3  lithe  and  clear  as  an 
antelope — hands  and  feet  small,  with  arms  that  would  have  made 
Canova  start  in  his  dreams.  The  face  was  full  of  sweetness  and 
expression — eyes  soft,  full  and  dark — the  mouth  and  chin  large 
and  rounded — with  even,  white  teeth,  and  long,  glossy-black 
tresses.  Her  name  was  Teina,  and  it .  had  as  pretty  a  sound 
as  the  euphonious  ita  ita,  the  Tahitians  pronounce  so  melodiously. 
The  other  maidens  were  Teina's  companions,  who,  having  no 
engagements  on  hand,  accompanied  us  as  volunteers,  or  light 
troops.  We  tramped  blithely  along  the  Broom  Road,  whilst  the 
delicious  strains  from  the  brass  band  went  sailing  up  hill  and  grove. 
Between  the  radiating  mountain-ridges  of  Tahiti,  which  diverge 
from  the  longitudinal  core  of  the  summit,  there  are  many  frightful 
precipices — awful  splits  in  the  bosom  of  the  earth — narrow, 
gloomy  and  deep,  that  hang  frowningly  over  the  sombre,  turbu- 
lent torrents  of  waters  that  spring  from  the  misty  faces  of  the 
upper  heights.  Our  route  led  up  one  of  them.  Turning  up  a 
broad  valley,  we  followed  the  course  of  a  rapid  stream,  crossing 
and  re-crossing  where  rocks  of  the  adjacent  heights  became  too 
precipitous  to  admit  a  pathway ;  and  to  save  time  and  unnecessary 
trouble,  we  were  either  ferried  over  on  the  shoulders  of  our  taata 
convoy,  breasting  the  foaming  surge,  or  once  or  twice  I  was 
mounted  on  one  of  the  native  damsels — Miss  Toanni — who  kindly 
offered  her  services.  I  blush  for  niy  want  of  gallantry,  but  trust 
it  was  in  a  measure  redeemed  by  holding  her  drapery  from  the 
water  during  the  several  wadings.  She  wore  for  head-dress  a 
broad  straw  hat  with  fluttering  ribbons — a  figured  gingham  sac, 
plaited  and  buttoned  to  the  throat,  fell  loosely  over  a  white  under- 
tunic — and  demi-pantaletts  reached  below  the  knees,  where  the 
costume  terminated  by  open-worked,  indigo  stockings,  that  would 


MOUNTAIN  FORTRESS.  415 


bear  washing — while  her  fingers  were  covered  with  indelible  blue 
rings,  of  the  same  material  as  the  hose. 

There  is  very  little  tatooing  among  the  Tahitians — a  few  leggings 
— blue  devices  about  the  neck — rings  on  fingers  or  toes,  but  never 
a  mark  on  the  face.  As  civilization  advances,  they  acquire  a 
distaste  for  these  heathenish  skin-paintings.  However,  I  must 
not  lose  sight  of  Toanni.  She  had  a  firm,  well-knit  frame — wide 
mouth,  fine,  brilliant  teeth,  intended  for  service — such  as  cracking 
flinty  ship-biscuits,  or  wrenching  husks  from  cocoanuts — large, 
inirthsome,  dark  eyes,  with  but  one  flaw  to  their  beauty,  which 
she  enjoyed  alike  with  all  the  Pacific  Islanders — the  whites  of  the 
eyes  were  yellow  !  Such  was  Toanni. 

Occasionally,  when  resting  within  the  close  shade  of  the  valley, 
if  the  bright  eyes  of  the  girls  detected  the  sunny  bulbs  of  papao 
gleaming  through  the  surrounding  foliage,  off  they  sprang  for  the 
fruit,  or  climbed  the  vai  for  apples,  or  pretty  flowers  clustering 
about  the  lower  branches,  which  were  soon  turned  into  wreatna 
or  necklaces. 

Advancing  inland,  the  lateral  valleys  converged  into  one  deep 
gorge,  closing  perpendicularly  on  either  hand ;  and  further  on, 
the  stream  itself  was  cut  off  by  a  bold,  transverse  acclivity  be- 
tween the  two  sides,  like  a  wall  of  masonry,  more  than  half 
way  up  the  lofty  shafts  that  framed  the  gorge.  From  this  shelf, 
more  than  a  thousand  feet  above  us,  there  came  leaping  a  thin 
thread  of  water — but  long  before  reaching  the  base  of  the  grassy 
barrier,  it  was  diffused  in  showers  of  spray,  and  poured  its  spark- 
ling tribute  into  the  deep  chasms  of  the  valley. 

Leaving  the  lower  bed  of  the  stream,  we  began  mounting 
upward  by  a  zig-zag  pathway,  cut  lately  by  the  French  on 
the  flat,  sheer  face  of  the  mountain.  It  was  at  this  point, 


416  CHAPTER  L. 


where  at  an  immense  height  above,  the  Tahitians  had  poised 
vast  masses  of  rocks,  with  levers  ready  pointed,  to  hurl 
death  and  destruction  on  the  adventurous  soldiers  who  should 
dare  to  attack  their  stronghold.  The  natives  were  posted  at  the 
head  of  the  pass,  upon  an  acclivity,  with  no  other  approach  from 
below  than  a  crumbling  goat-path,  where  the  road  now  leads. 
They  were  well  provided  with  arms  and  ammunition,  cartridges 
charged  at  both  ends,  to  prevent  mistakes,  and  kindly  furnished, 
it  is  said,  by  foreign  ships  of  war  in  port  at  the  tune.  Indeed,  the 
French  during  the  last  year  of  the  war,  were  harrassed  night  and 
day.  Alarm-fires  were  blazing  on  every  hill,  feints  were  made 
upon  the  town,  and  the  neighboring  posts,  until  the  troops 
became  worn  out,  and  more  than  half  ill  in  hospital.  Nor  were 
the  French  so  successful  in  their  different  engagements  as  the 
superior  arms  and  discipline  of  trained  soldiers  would  imply  ;  for 
in  one  affair  at  Ta-a-a-a,  they  had  fifty  slain. 

Thus  the  Tahitians,  believing  themselves  invincible,  after  a 
thirteen  month's  seige,  were  at  last  dislodged  through  the  con- 
nivance of  a  traitor,  who  guided  their  enemies  up  a  narrow  ravine, 
when,  after  surmounting  almost  inaccessible  precipices,  by  the  aid 
of  scaling-ladders  and  ropes,  they  succeeded  in  attaining  a  foot- 
hold on  a  sharp  spur  of  the  peaks  above  the  pass,  and  then  rushing 
down  completely  surprised  and  captured  the  native  camp.  To 
the  humanity  of  the  French  be  it  said,  every  soul  was  spared. 
This  was  the  last  struggle :  tired  of  subsisting  on  roots  and 
berries,  enveloped  in  mists  and  rain,  the  natives  sighing  once 
more  for  their  smiling  homes  by  the  sea-side,  surrendered  in 
December,  1846. 

In  the  great  losses  sustained  by  the  French  in  this  warfare, 
it  struck  us  very  forcibly  that  there  must  have  been  great  igno- 


DIADEM  OF  FATOAR.  417 

ranca  and  inexperience  in  the  knowledge  of  what  we  call  bush- 
fighting.  The  Tahitians  do  not  compare  with  the  North  American 
Indian  in  either  courage,  hardihood,  or  sagacity  ;  and  without  any 
disparagement  to  French  valor  or  gallantry,  in  our  innocence 
we  sincerely  believed  that  two  hundred  of  our  back-woodsmen 
would  have  hunted  every  copper-colored  warrior  into  the  ocean. 

After  a  toilsome  struggle  we  gained  the  lateral  ridge  that  joined 
the  two  acclivities,  and  entered  an  artificial  aperture,  cut  through 
the  rocks,  which  was  the  portal  to  the  native  fortress. 

The  well-defined  diadem  of  Fatoar  rose  in  clear  relief  against 
the  blue  sky  above  our  heads,  and  looking  around  we  were  in  the 
midst  of  a  multitude  of  gullies  and  ravines,  with  the  bed  of  the 
same  rivulet  we  had  left  below  rolling  rapidly  at  our  feet  towards 
its  fearful  plunge  in  a  gap  of  the  precipice.  A  number  of  wicker- 
basket  osier-built  huts  for  soldiers  were  perched  about  the 
elevations ;  the  vegetation  was  rich  and  beautiful,  wherever  a 
foot  of  soil  gave  nourishment ;  and  there  were  little  gardens, 
too,  with  many  kinds  of  vegetables,  irrigated  by  narrow  aque 
ducts,  formed  by  gutters  of  canes  or  bamboos,  and  fed  from 
adjacent  springs. 

The  scenery  was  quite  Swiss,  cquld  we  change  tropical  suns, 
running  streams,  and  unceasing  verdure  into  frosts,  glaciers,  and 
avalanches.  But  yet  it  was  a  romantic  solitude,  despite  the 
remark  of  the  French  officer  in  command,  who  assured  me,  with 
a  most  expressive  gesture,  that  it  was  terribkment  mauvais. 

We  continued  our  walk  some  distance  beyond  the  fort,  and 
coming  to  a  shaded,  smooth  tier  of  rocks,  where  the  stream  was 
bubbling  noisily  along,  with  little  sleeping  pools  half  hidden  amid 
the  crags,  and  opposite  a  pointed  slender  peak  like  a  fishing-rod — 

well  nigh  punching  a  hole  in  the  blue  expanse  of  heaven — we 

18* 


418  CHAPTER  L. 


spread  our  rural  banquet  on  the  rocky  table,  plunged  the  bottles  in 
the  icy  water,  and  then  reclined  luxuriously  around,  with  full 
resolve  to  do  justice  to  the  feast,  incited  by  our  long  tramp  and 
fast. 

"  Flow  of  wine,  and  flight  of  cork, 
Stroke  of  knife,  and  thrust  of  fork  ; 
But,  where'er  the  board  was  spread, 
Grace,'  I  ween,  was  never  said." 

Wings  of  chickens,  slices  of  ham,  roasted  bananas,  huge  loaves  of 
bread,  preserved  fish,  and  cups  of  wine  disappeared  with  mar- 
vellous rapidity.  We  did  all  rational  beings  could  be  expected 
to  perform  under  the  circumstances,  but  at  last  were  obliged  to  cry 
peccavi  !  Not  so  our  lady  guests — the  war  of  maids  and  viands  had 
only  begun ;  my  friend,  Toanni,  thought  a  trifle  of  taking  five  or 
six  of  these  oily  little  sardines  at  a  mouthful,  pushing  them  down 
with  half  a  banana,  and  violent  thrust  of  bread.  She  devoured 
ham  and  fowls  with  great  apparent  relish,  wagging  her  lower  jaw, 
to  detach  any  stray  masses  of  unmasticated  matter  that  chanced 
to  have  escaped  the  ivory  hopper,  and  fallen  between  her 
capacious  cheeks ;  every  few  seconds  giving  her  round  fingers 
a  sharp  suck,  like  popping  a  cork.  Truely  Toanni's  head  room 
was  enormous.  Once  or  twice,  when  thinking  her  rage  entirely 
appeased,  she  relapsed  again,  and  performed  prodigies  with 
rashers  of  baked  pig.  I  believe  it  was  Voltaire  who  designated 
the  illustrious  Shakspeare  as  a  "  sublime  barbarian  ; "  could  he 
have  seen  these  island  maidens,  he  certainly  would  have  awarded 
the  palm  to  Toanni ;  and  I  '11  wager  a  flask  of  bordeaux — a 
peculiar  weakness  of  mine — that  these  Tahitian  belles  can  eat 
more,  laugh  longer,  talk  faster,  all  at  once  or  separately, 
than  any  others  of  their  adorable  sex  the  wide  world  over.  I 


GIRLS  OF  TAHITI.  419 

speak  advisedly,  and  am  prepared  by  documentary  e  ridence  to 
prove  it. 

Rescuing  a  small  cruse  of  cogniac  from  the  melee,  I  reclined 
upon  a  rocky  bed,  with  my  heels  in  the  water,  for  a  doze,  induced 
by  the  soothing  fumes  of  a  pipe  !  But,  alas  !  hardly  were  my  eyes 
closed,  before  I  was  startled  by  the  cries  of  our  frolicksome 
light-hearted  companions,  who  with  a  lizard-like  facility  of 
grasp,  were  running  up  the  perpendicular  surface  of  the  peak, 
clinging  and  climbing  by  fibres  and  roots,  that  crept  and  laced 
themselves  about  the  crevices  of  the  rocks.  Plucking  a  quantity 
of  bright  flowers,  the  girls  bounded  into  the  stream,  and  then 
commenced  weaving  never-ending  wreaths  and  chaplets.  This 
universal  fondness  for  these  spontaneous  jewels  of  the  earth, 
with  their  love  for  bathing,  are  the  most  innocent  and  beautiful 
natural  tastes  possessed  by  the  savages  of  Polynesia. 

We  were  three  hours  getting  back  to  Papeetee,  only  pausing  for 
a  last  cooling  swim  in  the  lower  stream. 

The  evening  previous  to  our  departure  from  Tahiti  we 
attended  the  usual  soiree  of  the  French  Governor.  Important 
despatches  had  just  been  received  from  France,  and  the  saloons 
were  filled  at  an  early  hour  with  officers  of  the  ships  and 
garrison,  consuls,  and  merchants,  with  a  number  of  foreign 
ladies,  all  in  grand  tenu.  It  was  a  pleasant  gay  little  court,  with 
ecarte  tables  and  conversation,  vivacious  punch  handed  round  afe 
intervals,  and  maybe  a  little  flirting  and  love-making,  with 
"  music  to  fill  up  the  pauses,"  from  the  regimental  orchestras 
stationed  near  the  verandas,  while  the  lawns  and  grounds  were 
crowded  by  laughing  groups  of  natives,  talking  scandal,  perhaps, 
of  the  oui-outfs. 

The  next  morning,  before  day  had  dawned,  our  frigate  was 


420  CHAPTER  L. 


crowded  with  canvas,  and  assisted  by  a  flotilla  of  boats  from  the 
French  squadron,  we  were  quietly  towed  outside  the  coral  reef, 
then  taking  the  trade  on  the  quarter,  we  went  off  with  a  spanking 
breeze  towards  Aimeo. 


CHAPTER    LI. 

WITH  easterly  winds  we  sailed  away  to  the  southward.  In  a 
fortnight  the  sky  became  dull  and  gloomy — the  rain  fell,  chill 
and  cold — we  tumbled  from  our  warm  beds  with  a  shock  into  the 
cold  air,  for  we  had  been  a  long  time  beneath  the  clear  skies  and 
warm  suns  of  the  tropics,  and  rather  magnified  our  hardships,  in  a 
therm  ©metrical  sense. 

Still  we  were  bound  once  more  to  the  realms  of  civilization, 
which  was  in  itself  consoling — we  buttoned  our  jackets — declared  it 
was  fine  dumb-bell  weather,  and  exercised  those  implements  con- 
stantly. Doctor  Faustus,  too,  lighted  his  jovial  lamp  when  the 
night  closed  around  us,  and  we  blew  the  steam  from  a  tumbler 
of  Italia  punch  with  much  thankfulness  and  gusto ;  and  those 
of  us  who  had  watches,  forthwith  bent  our  steps  to  the  upper 
regions. 

One  cold  November  night,  in  a  hard  squall,  whilst  the  topmen 
were  furling  the  lofty  sails,  two  men  were  hurled  from  the  main- 
top-gallant yard,  and  falling  through  the  lubber's  hole  of  the  top, 
were  caught  at  the  junction  of  the  futtock  shrouds.  One  escaped 
with  severe  injuries,  but  his  unfortunate  companion  died  in  thirty 
minutes.  He  was  a  handsome,  active,  young  fellow,  who  made 
my  acquaintance  during  the  blockade  of  Mazatlan,  in  old  Jack's 
oyster-boat. 


422  CHAPTER  LI. 


In  speaking  of  the  accident,  the  day  after,  to  an  old  Swedish 
quarter-gunner,  called  Borlan — "  Vy,  sir,"  said  he,  pulling  aside 
his  huge  whiskers  and  disclosing  a  broad,  jagged  seam,  the  whole 
length  of  the  face — "  Vy,  sir,  see  here !  I  vonce  toombled  vrom 
a  brig's  mast-head — top -gallant  yard  and  all — lying  to  in  a  gale 
of  vind.  Veil,  sir,  I  broke  mine  jaws  and  leg,  but  managed  to 
get  alongside  again,  and  was  hauled  on  bort.  Veil,  sir — vat  you 
dink  ? — the  gott  tarn  skipper  vanted  to  lick  me  for  not  bringing 
der  yard  too !" 

After  making  a  latitude  of  47°  South,  the  East  winds  departed, 
and  taking  a  gale  from  the  opposite  direction,  we  flew  before  it 
for  eleven  days  at  ten  miles  the  hour  towards  the  Chilian  coast. 
Oh!  what  a  "melancholy  main"  is  this  wide  expanse  of  the 
Pacific  !  There  is,  may  be,  in  the  feeling  of  being  near  continents 
or  islands  in  less  illimitable  seas,  something  a  little  pleasurable  ; 
but  to  be  pursuing  the  same  wearisome,  liquid  track,  for  weeks 
and  weeks,  with  nothing  to  relieve  the  monotony  of  sky  and 
water,  is  desolate,  indeed ! 

In  the  long  night-watches,  when  strong  gusts  of  hail  or  rain 
were  whistling  by  our  ears — the  top-sails  reefed  down,  though 
quivering  and  struggling,  like  great  birds  with  cramped  pinions, 
to  burst  from  the  stout  cordage  and  fly  away  in  flakes  of  snow — 
the  gallant  ship  would,  like  a  mettled  charger  feeling  the  whip  and 
spur,  at  times  run  lightly  and  swiftly  on  the  back  of  a  mighty  wave, 
almost  as  silently,  too,  as  if  gliding  on  a  lake — when,  the  instant 
after,  heeling  from  side  to  side,  she  would  dash  down  impetuously 
amid  the  tumult  of  waters,  cleaving  a  wide  road  before  her ! 

Mutter  your  last  ave,  Jack !  if  you  leave  the  strong  ship  in 
nights  like  these  !  Think  of  the  keen-sighted  albatross  that  will 
pick  your  eyes  out  next  morning,  if  the  keener-scented  shark  has 


THE  GREAT  PACIFIC.  433 

not  already  rasped  and  grated  your  bones  into  white  splinters 
within  his  merciless  jaws  !  Keep  close  under  shelter  of  the  solid 
bulwarks,  Jack !  Cling  to  your  lifc-lhes !  Feel  a  rope  twice 
aloft  before  you  swing  your  full  weight  upon  it !  but  hold  on, 
Jack !  Hold  on ! 

Think  of  it,  ye  rich  traders,  when  your  big  ships  coine  gallantly 
into  port.  Think  of  the  hands  that  have  strained  and  grasped 
upon  those  lofty  spars  that  now  so  motionless  lift  their  taper 
heads,  like  needle-points,  to  the  sky.  Think  of  the  cold  sleet 
and  chilling  rain — but  above  all,  think  of  poor  Jack — take  pity 
on  his  faults,  and  extend  the  helping  hand  in  his  distress. 

There  was  my  old  marine  oracle,  Harry  Greenfield,  muffled  in 
his  pea-coat,  braced  firmly  against  the  fife-rail,  over  the  wheel, 
every  now  and  then  slowly  twisting  his  rosy  face  around  the 
stern,  taking  a  glance  through  half-closed  eyelids  at  the  angry 
scud  flying  overhead,  or  during  a  rapid  succession  of  heavy 
lurches,  when  the  high  masts  appeared  to  describe  three-fourths  of 
a  circle  against  the  gloomy  sky,  he  would  pleasantly  hint  to  the 
briny  forecastle-man  who  grasped  the  steering  spokes,  or  the  old 
quartermaster  at  the  compass,  "  Steady,  old  Tom  Scofield !  Not 
so  much,  boys !  Touch  her  lightly,  Charley  !  don't  you  see  she's 
flying  off?" — and  again  relapse  within  the  folds  of  his  pea-jacket. 

"  Well,  old  gentleman,  what  are  you  pondering  on  ?"  "  Why, 
Mr.  Blank,  I'm  thinking  how  pleasant  it  must  be  to  have  a  mena- 
gerie on  board  ship  in  a  breeze  like  this ;  in  case  the  animals 
should  break  loose,  the  tigers,  bears,  hyenas,  and  the  elephant, 
and  the  monkeys  flying  around  the  decks  in  heaps,  yelling,  howl- 
ing, and  fighting  together  !  Ah !  it  must  be  a  fine  sight  on  a 
dark  night,  with  a  lantern  up  the  main  rigging.  I  never  sailed 
with  any  of  them  chaps,  'cept  once — he  was  a  royal  Bengal  tiger — 


424  CHAPTER  LI. 


ah  !  I  made  a  good  bit  of  money  out  of  him — he  had  a  difficulty 
with  the  cook — ."  Here  the  old  salt  went  into  a  series  cf  chuckles, 
and  I  was  forced  to  beg  him  to  proceed.  Emptying  his  mouth 
of  the  grateful  weed,  and  wringing  the  sleet  from  his  weather- 
beaten  beard,  he  continued  :  "  You  remember  Jim  Hughes,  Mr. 
Blank,  the  captain  of  the  old  ship's  foretop. "  I  nodded.  "  Well, 
I  fell  in  with  Jim  one  day  in  Greenock ;  he  was  just  from  Orleans, 
with  a  pouch  full  of  cash,  for  he  had  been  there  in  the  height  of 
the  cholera  season,  and  bagged  twenty  dollars  a  day  for  driving 
the  dead  cart."  Here  old  Harry  chuckled  again.  "  Well,  sir, 
Jim  was  Scotch,  and  among  his  people,  and  very  decent  they 
were  ;  they  treated  me  all  the  same  for  being  his  shipmate.  Well, 
after  a  time  a  brig  was  ready  for  sea ;  Jim  was  taken  as 
second  mate,  and  me  as  bo'sun.  We  were  bound  to  Calcutta ; 
off  Java  Head  the  first  mate  kicked  the  bucket,  was  tossed  over- 
board, Jim  was  promoted,  for  he  had  larnin',  and  I  stepped  into 
his  shoes."  Another  chuckle.  "  We  staid  in  Calcutta  five 
months,  taking  in  rice,  cotton,  indigo,  and  other  products  of  them 
countries,  when,  just  before  sailing,  there  came  on  board  the  tiger, 
a  present  for  the  King  of  England  !  A  noble  beast  he  was :  a 
big  strong  iron  front  cage  was  built  for  him  abaft  the  mainmast/ 
and  he  never  once  stopped  licking  his  white  tusks,  gaping,  walk- 
ing, and  lashing  his  rope  of  a  tail,  for  weeks  and  weeks  after 
leaving  the  river.  We  all  began  to  take  a  fancy  to  him,  and  I 
believe  he  did  for  us,  'cept  the  cook,  who  was  a  Nubian  nigger, 
and  black  all  the  way  down  his  throat.  I  never  see  such  an 
intense  darkey !  His  royal  tigership  never  could  bear  the  sight 
of  him,  probably  because  he  had  been  trepanned  by  some  of  the 
nigger  race ;  and  whenever  <  Lamp  Black,'  that  was  his  name, 
came  near,  his  eyes  kindled  like  live  coals,  and  he  growled  from 


DIFFICULTY  WITH  THE  COOK. 


the  bottom  of  his  belly.  We  often  cautioned  cookey  to  be  care- 
ful, and  so  he  was.  Well,  we  touched  at  Saint  Helena,  and  right 
glad  old  Bengal  was,  no  doubt,  for  we  had  got  short  of  chickens — 
— the  only  delicacies  he  seemed  to  relish — and  he  couldn't  be 
coaxed  to  touch  salt  junk.  A  few  days  after,  the  Nubian  was 
handing  him  his  breakfast,  with  the  galley  tormentors,  a  pair  of 
tongs  like,  through  the  small  trap  door  on  top  of  the  cage,  and, 
like  a  fool,  he  just  took  one  little  peep,  to  see  how  tenderly  the 
tiger  could  suck  the  last  drop  of  blood  from  a  chicken's  body, 
when,  by  one  rapid  blow  of  his  paw,  he  sunk  his  sinewy  claws 
into  the  darkey's  neck,  tore  the  head  from  the  trunk,  and  in  a 
second  was  crunching  the  reeking  mass  between  his  grinders. 
He  scoffed  bones,  wool,  and  flesh,  and  there  lay  the  remains  of 
poor  '  Lamp  Black'  quivering  on  the  red  decks.  After  this  little 
difiiculty,  he  became  quite  civil  and  civilized,  and  never  caused 
us  more  trouble.  By  and  by,  we  arrived  in  London  docks,  and 
as  they  were  a  good  while  preparing  a  birth  for  him  in  the  Zoolo- 
gical gardens,  Jim  and  me  exhibited  him  from  a  ha'penny  to  half- 
a-crown,  to  men,  women,  and  children.  So  you  see,  sir,  we  made 
nigh  forty  pounds  a  piece,  and  had  a  capital  spree,  I  tell  ye." 
Old  Harry  nearly  choked,  and  did  not  thoroughly  recover  until 
his  throat  had  been  cleared  with  a  glass  of  grog. 

Thirty-six  days  from  Tahiti,  and  we  arrived  in  Valparaiso. 
Remaining  in  port  nearly  a  month,  the  anchor  was  again  weighed, 
and  our  prow  again  turned  seaward.  Passing  the  Point  of 
Angels,  the  burnished  keel  bravely  ploughed  the  open  ocean, 
the  blue  waves  following  in  snowy  crests,  and,  in  a  few  ninutes, 
shores,  town  and  hills  had  faded  from  sight. 


CHAPTER    LII. 

THE  28th  of  January,  1849,  found  us  on  the  Peruvian  coast, 
abreast  the  Island  of  San  Lorenzo,  a  mountain  of  sand,  where  not 
a  blade  of  grass  can  vegetate ;  and  rounding  Galera  Cape,  we 
were  shortly  moored  in  the  port  of  Callao. 

The  bay  is  a  wide,  sweeping  indentation,  with  Lorenzo,  Fronton, 
and  a  narrow  spit  of  land  jutting  from  the  main,  serving  to  keep 
the  harbor  smooth  from  prevailing  southerly  winds.  To  the  north, 
the  spurs  of  the  Andes  approach  layer  upon  layer  to  the  brink  of 
the  coast,  while  nearer  the  land  trends  away,  towards  the 
interior,  nearly  plain-like — green,  fertile,  and  pleasant  to  gaze 
upon — with  the  clustering  towers,  and  spires  of  Lima  abutting  on 
the  distant  hills. 

There  is  no  difference  of  opinion  about  Callao :  for  it  is  a  filthy, 
bustling  little  port,  reeking  in  garlic  and  drunken  mariners,  alive 
with  fleas,  miserable,  dirty  soldiers,  and  their  yet  more  slovenly 
wives. 

The  place  is  thriving,  for  steam  frequents  it;  and  on  the 
curving  quay  are  piled  mountains  of  English  coals,  enormous 
heaps  of  wheat,  great  stacks  of  pisco,  and  italia  jars,  where 
Haserac,  the  celebrated  captain,  might  have  concealed  an  army 
of  thieves  with  impunity.  Merchandise  moves  backwards  and 
forwards  on  railway  trucks,  and  lazy  villains  in  pale  yellow 


CITADEL  OP  CALLAO.  437 

jackets,  with  iron  chains  and  anklets  attached  to  the  legs,  are  at 
work  after  a  fashion  of  their  own. 

The  houses  of  the  port  are  mean  and  irregular,  built  anywhere 
and  any  how,  either  of  adobies,  boards,  and  on  the  outskirts,  plea- 
sant cottage  residences,  built  of  bullocks'  hides  and  poles.  Streets 
and  lanes  run  hither  and  thither,  and  glaring  English  signs  stare 
you  in  the  face,  such  as  the  "  Jibboom  House,"  "  The  Lively 
Pig,"  "  Jackknife  Corner,"  and  "  House  of  Blazes."  Along  the 
beach  are  ranges  of  wicker,  reed,  and  mat-made  sheds  for 
bathing,  which  are  thronged  during  the  season.  But  the  most 
prominent  features  of  Callao  that  attract  the  eye,  are  the  round, 
flat  turrets  of  the  Castle,  flanked  on  either  side  by  long  lines  of 
curtains,  bastions,  embrasures,  and  batteries.  It  covers  a  great 
space,  enclosing  within  its  thick  and  massive  case-mated  walls, 
ranges  of  barracks — now  happily  converted  into  warehouses  for 
the  customs — magazines,  and  a  large  square,  with  a  fountain  in 
the  centre.  The  fortification,  from  the  nature  of  its  position,  is 
somewhat  irregular,  constructed  partly  on  a  ridge  of  sand,  leading 
towards  the  southern  arm  of  the  bay,  where  in  former  times  was 
the  site  of  old  Callao,  before  its  destruction  by  the  memorable 
earthquake  of  1746. 

There  is  a  wide,  deep  moat,  like  to  the  bed  of  a  river,  encircling 
the  fortress,  with  narrow  channels  cut  on  either  side  to  the  sea. 
This  is  now  dry  and  partially  filled  in  nearest  the  town.  The 
redoubts  and  detached  outworks  are  also  in  ruins,  but  yet  enough 
remains  to  make  us  reflect,  that  what  the  old  Spanish  engineers 
left  incomplete  in  this  work  would  hardly  be  worth  attempting  in 
our  day. 

It  was  here  where  the  last  stand  of  the  Royalists  was  made  in 
New  Spain — where  the  bloodiest  foot-prints  were  left  since  tho 


428  CHAPTER  LII. 


days  of  the  Incas  and  Pizarro — and  it  was  in  this  same  castle,  where 
the  brave  Rodil,  with  a  handful  of  devoted  followers,  clung  to  the 
soil  of  their  royal  master  with  a  tenacity  and  determination 
amounting  to  heroism — where  horse  meat  sold  for  a  gold  ounce 
the  pound,  and  a  chicken  for  its  weight  in  the  same  precious  metal : 
when,  hemmed  hi  on  all  sides,  by  sea  and  land — surrounded  but 
not  dismayed — they  still  kept  their  assailants  at  bay,  until  gaunt 
famine  stalked  before  them,  and  they  were  forced  to  furl  the  well- 
worn  colors  of  their  King!*  A  score  of  Rodils,  and  another 
century  might  have  intervened  before  South  American  patriots 
could  have  wrested  the  continent  from  the  old  Spaniards. 

If  tired  of  contemplating  these  bloody  reminiscences — or  bath- 
ing under  the  sheds  and  awnings,  where  all  resemble,  in  their 
saturated  black  frocks  and  trowsers,  watery  nuns ;  or  if  your  temper 
is  destroyed  by  the  fleas,  you  can  fly  to  the  harbor,  where  are  sturdy 
merchantmen  reeking  in  guano,  smoking  steamers,  and  heavy 
ships  of  war — and  thick  fogs  at  night — or,  what  is  more  divert- 
ing, you  may  watch  the  motions  of  swarms  of  gulls  that  frequent 
the  Port.  Our  good  surgeon,  who  professed  to  be  an  ornitholo- 
gist, called  them  platoon  birds.  They  fly  in  regular  battalions 
and  divisions,  in  strict  military  apportionments — led  and  appa- 
rently commanded  by  their  chieftains.  The  reviews  generally 
began  with  fishing.  At  some  understood,  feathery  signal,  while 
sailing  over  the  bay,  they  wheel  like  a  flash,  and  strike  the  water 
simultaneously  like  a  shower  of  bullets,  and  not  with  the  eyes  of 
Argus  is  it  possible  to  detect  the  smallest  irregularity  hi  move- 
ment, nor  a  stray  winged  soldier  out  of  the  ranks. 

However,  all  these  amusements  are,  at  best,  dull  recreation,  and 

»  In  February,  1820. 


CITY  OF  LIMA.  439 

it  is  a  great  relief  to  get  quit  of  Callao.  Onmibii  encumber  the 
uttermost  ends  of  the  earth — so  we  go  to  the  office,  when  the 
smiling  administrador  behind  a  railing  exclaims,  "  Ah  !  Capitdn  I 
you  want  asdentos  I  Ah  !  you  give  me  one  Spanish  dollar — ah ! 
buenof"  "Any  thieves?"  we  timidly  ask.  " Ah,  si,  yes;  but 
you  give  him  gold  ounce — no  kill  you,  ah  !"  "  Charming  fellows, 
certainly ;  but  suppose  we  give  him  an  ounce  of  some  other 
metal !"  Ah!  cuidado  amigo! — have  a  care,  my  friend! 

With  five  horses  ahead,  crack  !  crack !  goes  the  thong  of  the 
negro  Jehu — over  the  paved  street,  into  the  dusty  road,  where 
the  plunging  steeds  are  brought  up  floundering,  tugging  and 
straining  the  heavy  vehicle  axle,  through  the  finely  powdered 
soil — now  firmly  stalled,  we  get  out  per  force,  curse  the  roads, 
and  threaten  to  whip  the  driver — then  we  come  on  harder  ground, 
until  imperceptibly  there  comes  a  rocky  strata — loose  stones, 
remains  of  adobie  walls  and  ditches — but  all  equally  execrable  : 
then,  for  a  mile  or  more,  fine  trees  bend  their  towering  arms 
over  the  road,  and  shortly  after,  we  rattle  through  a  huge  gate- 
way— have  travelled  eight  miles,  and  we  are  in  the  city  of  kings — 
Luna !  "  See  it  and  die,"  said  the  old  land  pirates  of  the  days  of 
its  founder,  Pizarro,  and  their  descendants.  Whatever  it  may 
have  been  two  centuries  ago,  in  these  days  it  requires  no  very 
strong  effort  of  will  to  survive  the  sight. 

The  city  is  compact  and  populous,  the  buildings  are  very  low, 
and  quite  resemble  the  old  Moriscan  towns  along  the  northern 
shores  of  Africa,  with  close  overhanging  jalousies  and  balconies, 
finely  railed  and  latticed.  The  streets  are  wide  and  straight, 
paved  with  small  pebbles — dreadfully  torturing  to  the  pedestrian 
— the  side-walks  beneath  the  portals  or  arcades  of  the  plazas, 
and  in  the  gateways  and  patios  of  dwellings  are  figured  hi  coarse 


430  CHAPTER  LII. 


mosaic,  formed  by  the  white  knuckle-bones  of  sheep  and  pebbles 
Handsome  shops  fringe  the  fashionable  avenues,  glittering  with 
costly  fabrics  and  toys ;  then  again  packed  side  by  side,  in 
nooks,  alcoves,  and  niches,  are  small  merchants,  who  from 
their  numbers,  one  would  suppose  to  be  all  sellers  and  no 
buyers. 

The  little  river  Rimac  flows  noisily  through  the  city,  fed  from 
far  away  by  the  silvered  pinnacles  of  snows  and  ice  in  the  lofty 
Andes.  It  is  spanned  by  a  substantial  and  lofty  bridge,  whose 
every  stone  has  been  loosened  by  the  earthquake.  Lima  might 
be  made  one  of  the  cleanest  cities  in  the  world ;  for  through  all 
the  main  arteries  runs  a  narrow  rivulet  diverted  from  the  Rimac. 
Nevertheless,  it  is  excessively  filthy,  and  the  gallianzos^  or 
vultures,  tame,  and  pampered  by  a  profusion  of  nastiness  and 
offal,  take  their  morning's  meal  in  the  streets  and  squares,  and 
afterwards  hobble  to  the  house-tops,  where,  with  blood-red  eyes, 
and  gorged  bodies,  they  calmly  endure  repletion. 

The  most  striking  features  upon  approaching  the  city  are  the 
vast  clusters  of  domes,  towers,  and  spires,  that  arise  in  such 
thick  profusion  from  the  convents  and  churches,  as  to  favor  the 
belief  that  every  house  has  something  of  the  kind  attached 
thereto.  From  the  neighboring  valley  of  Almencaes  I  have 
counted  sixty.  In  the  distance  they  present  a  solid,  imposing 
aspect,  but  on  a  nearer  view,  they  will  generally  be  found  mere 
paper  structures  of  reeds  and  plaster.  Many  of  the  grand  edifices, 
the  cathedral,  convents,  and  parochial  churches,  are  partly  of 
bricks,  stone,  or  the  most  enormous  adobies,  up  to  the  belfreys, 
but  above,  all  are  similar  to  the  pasteboard  decorations  of  the 
theatre ;  and  although  it  seems  reasonable  to  suppose  they  would 
topple  down  at  the  first  summons  of  the  tremblor,  yet  it  is  the 


TOWER  OF  SAN   DOMINGO.  43! 

only  style  of  lofty  work  that  will  bear  the  frequent  shocks,  totter 
like  a  tree,  and  still  stand  erect.  Externally  these  buildings  are 
elaborately  carved,  painted,  and  imaged,  without  any  consistent 
order  of  architecture ;  and  within  they  are  profusely  decorated  with 
rich  gildings,  paintings,  and  statues ;  all,  however,  destitute  of  taste  ; 
and  only  when  brilliantly  illuminated,  with  the  myriads  of  silken 
parti-colored  streamers  pendant  and  fluttering  from  the  lofty  aisles, 
swinging  censers,  organs  pealing,  with  all  the  pomp  and  im- 
posing ceremony  of  the  Catholic  church,  is  the  effect  worthy  of 
admiration. 

The  best  position  for  viewing  Lima — Asmodeus-like — is  from 
the  high  tower  of  San  Domingo,  that  is,  if,  after  mounting  above 
the  bells,  you  can  reconcile  the  flimsy  quaking  fabric  you  stand 
upon  to  any  extreme  ideas  of  personal  safety.  The  devil  on  this 
pair  of  sticks  could  not  have  chosen  a  more  eligible  spot  for 
inspecting  the  arcana  of  people's  dwellings.  The  city  is  spread  like 
a  map  at  your  feet ;  composed  of  long  lines  of  crumbling  walls,  miles 
of  flat  roofs,  and  little  patios,  the  former  loosely  tiled,  and  sprinkled 
over  with  dirt,  where  even  dead  cats,  and  tattered  rags  quietly 
repose  for  ages.  There  is  not  in  the  universe  to  be  seen  such  a 
large  area  of  mud  walls,  reed,  and  rush-built  houses,  all  appearing 
so  unfinished  and  incomplete.  But  in  a  climate  where  it  never 
rains,  where  it  never  blows,  where  even  the  thick  coatings  of  dust 
are  hardly  absorbed  by  the  dry  rain  of  winter  fogs,  it  is  not 
surprising  that  all  these  masses  of  reeds  and  plaster  are  preserved 
for  centuries  without  perceptible  decay.  Still  there  can  be  no 
scepticism  on  one  point,  that  if  ever  there  chance  to  fall  a  heavy 
tropical  shower,  the  city  of  Pizarro  will  be  swept,  a  heap  of  mud 
and  sticks,  into  the  ocean. 

Allowing  the  eyes  to  wander  around  and  beyond  the  city,  the 


432  CHAPTER  LII. 


discolored  Rimac  is  seen  hurrying  from  the  melting  oosom  of  its 
Alpine  mother  down  between  the  distant  hills,  diffusing  its  fertil- 
izing freshness  over  the  sloping  valley — the  margins  encircled  by 
verdant  fields  of  cane,  like  bright  patches  of  emeralds,  and  the 
banks  fringed  by  weeping  willows,  that  dip  their  bending  branches 
to  kiss  the  rapid  torrent.  On  it  comes,  over  the  stony  bed,  dash- 
ing its  strength  in  fierce  anger  against  the  arches  of  the  sturdy 
bridge,  and  then  glancing  by  the  flowering  meads  and  slopes  of 
Almencaes,  flies  rapidly  to  the  placid  waves  of  the  Pacific. 


CHAPTER    LIU 

LIMA  is  fast  losing  its  singular  originality,  although  there  is 
still  much  to  be  seen,  which,  in  these  days  of  universal  journey- 
ings,  has  the  merit  of  being  extremely  novel. 

There  are  interminable  strings  of  mules  and  donkeys  constantly 
passing  and  repassing  to  the  bubbling  fountains  of  plazas  or 
churches,  each  with  twin  reservoirs  of  water-barrels  balanced  on 
the  brute's  shoulders ;  others  with  huge  milk  jugs,  baker's  boxes 
of  hideSj  and  the  drivers  in  the  midst.  Again,  matronly  dames 
jog  along  astride  their  cattle,  commonly  nursing  infants ;  then 
gilded  volantes  and  berlinas  whirl  by,  occupied  by  damas  in  full 
dress,  looking  as  if  entombed  within  crystal  shades ;  then  priests 
in  "  cope  and  stole"  in  processions — white  and  black  gowned 
ones — tottering  bishops  in  lawn  and  mitre,  and  very  shaky  on 
their  swollen  ancles,  with  beads  vibrating  like  uneasy  pendu- 
lums ;  others  in  stove-pipe  hats,  sleek,  fat,  and  slovenly — or  meek 
friars — not  of  eggs  and  bacon,  from  their  meagre,  famished 
appearance — lank  and  dirty,  with  robes  of  coarse  serge  and  girdles 
of  ropes — all  darkening  the  side  walks,  with  flickering  torch  and 
taper  flaring  in  the  mid-day  sun,  and  solemn  chaunt,  as  they  move 
unceasingly  towards  church  or  convent. 

Then,  again,  stupid,  stunted  native  Indians  strut  along  with 
bow  legs  and  parrot  step  ;  beside  them,  stout  negresses,  zambos, 
19 


434  CHAPTER    LHL 

and  cholos,  with  brief  frocks,  and  the  most  gossamer  of  flesh- 
colored  silk  stockings  encasing  their  ebony  shins  ;  there  are  portales 
thronged  with  shops  and  stalls — artizans  in  gold  and  silver  embroi- 
dery carrying  on  their  avocations,  regardless  of  noise  and  bustle. 
Equestrians,  too,  are  caracolling  through  streets  and  squares, 
clothed  in  bright  ponchos,  and  their  small,  spirited  steeds  decked 
in  shining  trappings,  with  heavy  Gothic-shaped  spurs,  half  the 
weight  of  the  riders. 

It  is  a  curious  scene  to  contemplate  all  this  motley  crowd,  as 
the  first  sweet  tone  of  the  great  bell  of  the  cathedral — and  the 
sweetest  sound  from  brass  and  silver  ever  heard — gives  forth  its 
prolonged  and  melancholy  cadency  for  oration.  As  if  touched 
by  the  wand  of  a  magician,  the  busy  hum  of  life  is  hushed — mules 
and  donkeys  halt  of  then-  own  accord,  and  with  drooping  ears 
and  bended  necks,  appear  absorbed  in  prayer.  The  man  who  is 
yelling  Fresquita  !  with  all  his  might,  stops  miraculously  short  at 
the  half-uttered  word  in  the  highest  note — venders  and  the  disci- 
ples of  Abraham  cease  barter — horsemen  draw  bridle — these  gay 
lerlinas  pause,  and  their  fair  inmates  with  jewelled  fingers  tell 
their  beads,  and  rosy  lips  arrest  the  dimpling  smiles — lovers 
silence  the  soft  whispers  to  blushing  amantes — the  whirr  of  loom 
and  spindle  weaving  the  golden  threads  is  checked — hats  and 
heads  are  borne  low,  and  every  vestige  of  animation  is  suspended — 
all  is  beautifully  impressive.  A  minute  !  The  ave  is  uttered — 
the  heavy  bell  sounds  twice — thrice — then  the  deafening  and 
rejoicing  peals  ring  from  towers  far  and  near.  Crack !  falls  the 
cruel  lash  on  the  devout  donkey's  hide — arre  !  shouts  the  arri- 
eros — quita!  screams  the  dulce-man — Tres  pesos  el  men  or  ! 
wheedles  the  Jew — off  glide  the  gilded  vehicles — away  gallop 
capering  barbs — the  artisans  resume  the  mazy  windings  of  the 


SAYA  3  Y  MANIAS  435 

reel  or  shuttle — the  lover  and  his  mistress  again  become  smiling 
and  pathetic — and  again  goes  on  the  roar  and  turmoil  of  a  popu- 
lous town. 

On  the  right  bank  of  the  Rimac  are  two  promenades,  neither 
particularly  well  shaded,  but  the  Alemeda  nearest  the  river  is  most 
frequented  and  pleasant. 

During  feast  days,  or  after  the  Sunday  bull-fights  in  the  arena 
near  at  hand,  it  is  customary  for  the  elite  of  Lima  to  appear  in  full 
dress,  enshrined  within  the  glass  panels  of  their  pretty  lerlinas, 
and  take  a  stand  along  the  drive,  beneath  the  drooping  willows. 
Nor  is  it  considered  indecorous,  if  you  have  friends  or  acquaint- 
ances among  those  lovely  dam~o}  to  doff  your  castor  and  touch  the 
tips  of  their  ungloved,  rosy  fingers,  and  may  be,  hear  the  number  of 
their  palco  at  the  evening  opera — or,  where  the  tertulia  is  given, 
and  what  a  charming  bouquet  it  was  you  sent — and  other  agree- 
able pleasantries.  Have  a  care,  my  gringo !  button  your  coat 
tight,  or  you  may  lose  your  heart ! 

On  these  occasions,  also,  the  stone  benches  on  either  side  the 
promenade  are  thronged  with  sayas  y  manias — the  most  bewitch- 
ing satin  envelope  that  ever  woman,  be  she  youthful  or  aged, 
was  ever  wrapped  in.  There  is  no  resisting  the  large,  brilliant, 
languishing  eye — laughing  with  all  its  might — nor  the  round, 
white  arm,  that  so  pertinaciously  keeps  the  jealous  folds  of  the 
manta  over  the  face.  Exhaust  the  whole  Castilian  vocabulary  of 
compliments — and  it  is  copious — beseeching  and  imploring  to 
be  vouchsafed  one  little  word !  Ah  Senorita !  haceme  el  favot 
de  una  palabrita ! — do  speak  one  little  word.  But  no  !  never  a 
syllable  from  the  silent  veil,  while  the  roguish  eye  twinkles  and 
laughs  like  a  planet !  They  may  know  you — but  the  sharpest 
duefia  that  ever  cheated  or  was  bribed  by  a  lover  could  not 


436  CHAPTER  MIL 


detect  her  charge  within  these  closely-fitting  dominoes — no.,  hus- 
band the  wife,  nor  mother  her  daughter — they  are  alike  en- 
shrouded in  the  same  graceful  but  impenetrable  black  masque. 
They  are  so  cunning  and  coquettish,  too !  Fancy  you  discover 
one.  Strive  to  awaken  her  jealousy,  or  pique  her  vanity  by 
encomiums  or  scandal  upon  a  sister  or  cousin — ten  to  one  it  comes 
back  to  you  in  protean  shapes  from  the  one  you  least  dreamed  of. 
Yet  I  cannot  but  think  the  institution  was  originally  invented  by 
ugly  women ;  and  it  appears,  many  of  the  fairest  portions  are  of 
the  same  opinion,  being  generally  quite  willing  to  exhibit  their 
charms  of  face  as  nature  intended.  Except  on  feast  days,  or  in 
carnival,  the  dress  is  now  rarely  worn ;  but  in  former  years  no 
woman  appeared  in  street  or  mass  without  the  saya  y  manta. 
In  those  days,  intrigue  was  so  rife  that  a  prudent  young 
bachelor  was  forced  to  keep  a  strict  watch  upon  his  morals,  or 
have  his  heart  forcibly  abducted  by  these  warm-blooded  Limene- 
ans — those  were  the  times  to  hold  wicked  husbands  in  consterna- 
tion, and  set  watchful  duefias  at  defiance  !  For  a  wonder,  French 
taste  ajid  dress  are  rapidly  reforming  all. 

Some  distance  up  the  Rimac,  near  the  Alemeda,  is  to  be  found 
the  pleasantest  place  for  bathing.  Water  is  turned  by  narrow 
canals,  and  pours  through  a  long  range  of  enclosed  and  covered 
tanks,  nicely  cemented  and  tiled,  sufficiently  large  for  swimming. 
They  are  not  very  private  places  at  all  hours  of  the  day,  but 
one's  delicacy  is  seldom  shocked,  for  the  swimmers  are  the  politest 
people  possible  :  as  an  instance,  whilst  bathing  one  morning,  two 
youths  accidentally  intruded  on  my  quarters,  but  recovering  their 
equanimity,  very  civilly  removed  their  head-gear  and  made  a 
polite  bow  to  me,  while  in  the  water  ! 


LIMENEAN  BEAUTIES.  437 


Drives  there  are  none  at  all  pleasurable  for  any  extent  around 
the  city ;  nor  are  the  rides  more  so.  The  environs,  in  all  direc- 
tions, are  intersected  by  heavy  and  high  mud  walls,  shutting  out 
air  and  vision,  leaving  only  heat  and  stifling  clouds  of  dust  to 
repay  one's  trouble. 

Lima  itself  should  not  be  too  narrowly  criticised  from  the 
streets ;  although  without,  naught  is  beheld  save  dingy,  adobie 
walls,  dusty  cobwebbed  lattices  and  balconies,  half  decayed,  yet 
once  pass  the  wide  and  lofty  portals,  and  many  of  the  best  houses 
have  noble  suites  of  apartments,  furnished  with  great  taste  and 
even  splendor ;  besides,  that  which  gives,  in  a  certain  degree,  an 
air  of  elegance,  is  the  elaborate  mazes  of  glass  doors,  gaily 
papered  or  frescoed  walls,  and  a  profusion  of  gilding.  Light  is 
usually  thrown  from  the  roof,  and  the  houses  are  cool  and  pro- 
perly ventilated. 

After  a  few  tertulias^  and  a  pretty  ball  given  by  the  American 
Charge,  we  had  no  other  opportunities  of  mingling  in  Limenean 
society.  There  were  quite  a  number  of  pretty  women,  with 
very  fair  complexions  and  winning  manners,  who  danced  like 
sylphs,  as  what  Creole  does  not?  Two  youthful  Scfioritas,  of 
some  sixteen  and  seventeen  years,  were  pointed  out  as  little 
lumps  of  gold,  of  "  purest  ray  serene,"  who  were  fiancee  to  their 
uncles,  fine  old  gentlemen  of  sixty  !  It  was  suggestive  of  a  post- 
chaise  and  bandboxes  to  any  successful  aspirant  to  the  ownership 
of  a  lovely  pair  of  eyes.  However,  these  out  of  the  way  alliances 
are  quite  common  in  Lima,  and  perhaps  the  fair  ones,  at  a  later 
era,  begin  to  discover  they  have  hearts  of  their  own  not  to  be  sold 
to  the  highest  bidder,  like  bills  of  exchange  at  the  mart !  Very 
few  of  these  deluded  damsels,  it  may  be  reasonably  presumed, 


438  CHAPTER  LIII. 


when  fully  aware  of  their  tender  wrongs,  can  exclaim,  in  the 
words  of  the  Spanish  lady's  ballad : 

"  I  will  not  falsify  my  vows  for  gold  nor  gain. 
Nor  yet  for  all  the  fondest,  swain*  that  ever  lived  in  Spain/' 


CHAPTER    LIV. 

THE  public  edifices  of  Lima,  which  are  so  closely  connected 
with  the  History  of  the  Conquest,  and  the  bloody  revolutionary 
struggles  of  Peru,  have  no  other  attributes,  either  in  architec- 
tural beauty  or  position  to  recommend  them. 

The  Cathedral  occupies  nearly  one  side  of  the  grand  plaza ; 
the  exterior  is  painfully  decorated,  without  taste  or  system  ;  within 
is  a  solid  silver  altar,  paintings  of  archbishops,  and  their  earthly 
remains  also,  mummified  in  leather,  and  reposing  in  open  coffins. 

The  Viceroy's  Palace  fills  the  northern  faco  of  the  square — a 
low,  irregular  collection  of  buildings — the  lower  parts,  fronting 
the  plaza  and  streets,  occupied  by  small  shopmen,  similar  to  the 
hosts  of  tinkers,  fringemen,  hatters,  and  cooks  beneath  the  oppo- 
site ranges  of  the  portalcs.  Opening  into  the  inner  courtyard  are 
the  public  offices  and  the  private  residence  of  the  President,  Ge- 
neral Castilla.  He  was  a  soldier  of  fortune,  had  risen  from  the 
ranks,  and  passed  through  many  vicissitudes  of  life  before  being 
chosen  the  supreme  governor  of  Peru  ;  not  more  surprising  pro- 
bably even  to  himself,  than  the  extraordinary  anomaly,  that  he 
has  held  his  position  the  four  years  since  the  election,  without  a 
revolution  having  arisen  to  disturb  his  tranquillity.  This  security 
he  owed,  in  a  measure,  to  his  individual  bravery  and  soldiership 
displayed  in  times  past,  and  the  belief  generally  entertained  by 


440  CHAPTER  LIV. 


dissatisfied  persons  of  his  upright  character,  and  his  indifference  to 
execute  summary  vengeance  on  whomsoever  should  incur  his  dis- 
pleasure, by  again  involving  the  country  in  the  turmoils  of  civil 
discord. 

The  General  and  staff  visited  our  frigate  at  Callao,  and  were 
received  with  manned  yards  and  the  usual  artillery.  In  person 
he  was  about  the  middle  stature,  with  a  frank,  bronzed  face,  and 
agreeable  address. 

Many  curious  objects  are  pointed  out  within,  or  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  palace,  rich  in  reminiscences  of  the  Pizarros,  and  the 
tragic  drama  connected  with  the  life  and  death  of  the  Con- 
queror— the  room  wherein  he  was  assassinated,  and  the  balcony 
from  whence  he  was  afterwards  hurled  by  the  Almagros. 

The  main  Patio  was  thronged  with  troops  of  eager  and  expect- 
ant cormorants,  who,  my  informant  stated,  wore  gentlemen  in 
•waiting  upon  the  treasury — officers  and  cmpleados  with  large 
salaries  in  perspective — but,  strange  to  say,  the  vaults  were 
invariably  empty ;  or,  in  case  there  should  be  a  surplus  on  hand, 
it  is  a  description  of  money  composed  of  so  base  a  metal  that  it 
will  not  pass  for  one-fifth  the  nominal  value  out  of  Lima. 

A  national  museum  has  lately  been  established — a  small  enter- 
prise thus  far, — containing  a  few  Cacique  antiquities,  Island 
weapons  and  ornaments,  a  coat  worn  by  Salaverry  when  he  was 
murdered — bedabbled  with  mud  and  blood — and  the  walls  are  hung 
with  portraits  of  the  forty-seven  Viceroys  of  Peru,  but  placed  in  so 
bad  a  light  that,  with  few  exceptions,  the  features  and  expression 
of  the  different  rulers  were  indistinctly  visible.  They  begin  with 
Francisco  Pizarro,*  and  are  all  miserably  executed  specimens  of 

»  This  is  the  same  portrait  from  which  the  engraving  in  Prescott's  Peru  is  taken, 
but  the  latter  hears  but  a  faint  resemblance  to  the  original. 


WE  VISIT  THE  OPERA.  44! 

painting,  without  grace  or  harmony,  and  it  would  seem  that  the 
artists,  in  their  anxiety  to  have  them  of  a  uniform  length,  in  the 
absence  of  correct  notions  of  drawing,  have  jammed  heads  and 
heels  close  up  or  down  to  the  frames,  leaving  the  intermediate 
portions  of  the  person  harsh  and  ungainly. 

The  theatre  is  a  mean  edifice,  and  the  immense  rafters  that 
uphold  the  flat  roof  are  apt  to  keep  a  nervous  person  in  the 
pit  somewhat  anxious  and  uneasy,  anticipating  a  shock  of  the 
trcnMor.  It  is  sufficiently  commodious,  but  badly  ventilated, 
dimly  lighted,  and  without  decorations  or  scenic  display.  The 
first  representation  we  attended  was  mediocrily  performed  by  an 
Italian  troupe — there  were  three  prima  donnas — who,  apart  from 
being  ugly,  which,  of  course,  was  no  fault  of  theirs,  were  regard- 
less of  taste  or  execution,  and  all  strove  to  outshout  the  other. 
Indeed,  a  fifth-rate  artiste,  coming  so  far  abroad  in  these  climes, 
deems  it  imperative  to  take  a  tip-top  part  5  besides,  I  have 
remarked  among  opera  people,  that  there  is  always  a  cruel  Em- 
pressario,  who  tyrannically  will  have  something  to  say  in  the 
management  of  his  theatre — very  much  to  the  disgust  of  the  per- 
formers, and  who  is,  moreover,  expected  to  pay  handsomely,  even 
when  the  troupe  cannot  half  fill  the  house. 

On  the  occasion  referred  to  there  were  myriads  of  fleas,  and 
what  with  Beatrice  di  Tenda — a  donna  in  red — we  were  fain  to  quit 
the  opera.  Subsequently  the  performances  were  very  creditable, 
and  living  in  the  same  house  with  the  Contralto  and  handsome 
Barry  tone,  we  became  enlisted  in  their  clique,  and  did  battle 
against  the  unreasonable  manager.  One  evening,  whilst  assisting 
at  Linda  di  Chamouni,  between  the  acts  I  was  sitting  behind  the 
scenes,  in  a  temporarily-constructed  saloon,  condoling  with  the 
interesting  Contralto,  sympathising  with  her  griefs,  and  admiring 
19* 

• 


442  CHAPTER  LIV. 


her  open-worked  clocked  stockings — for  she  was  costumed  as  a 
Swiss  peasant — and  when  nearly  wound  up  to  a  pitch  of  desperate 
frenzy,  against  the  barbarous  Empressario,  the  lady's  tire  woman 
tripped  in.  Signorina,  said  she,  la  scena!  The  call-keeper's 
pipe  chirped  musically.  I  flew  to  the  front,  and  getting  com- 
fortably ensconced  beside  a  lovely  Limenean,  with  a  little 
mouth  like  a  slit  in  a  rose-leaf,  up  flew  the  curtain.  The 
scene  was  similar  to  one  in  Fra  Diavola,  where  Antonio 
returns  down  the  mountain-steep  after  an  unsuccesful  search 
for  the  devil's  brother ;  lots  of  peasants,  flower-girls,  and  a 
horde  of  attendants,  had  already  ascended,  together  with  the 
Contralto,  and  Linda  herself,  who  weighed  fourteen  stone. 
Tap  !  tap  !  led  the  orchestral  baton.  Now  began  the  cavatina. 
I  was  half  entranced  in  melody,  cigar-smoke,  and  the  smiles 
of  her  with  the  rose-leaf  mouth,  Dofia  Margarita,  when,  as 
the  sweet  notes  came  trilling  forth,  in  wreaths  of  exquisite 
harmony — crash  !  scream  !  crash  ! — the  platforms  gave  way  ! 
The  prima  donna  made  a  demi-volte,  threw  an  involuntary 
summerset,  and  vanished  head-foremost  through  Mont  Blanc, 
severely  damaging  the  picturesque  village  of  Chamouni ;  our 
friend  the  Cantatrice,  and  the  little  slashed  trowsers  and  silk 
stockings,  were  seen  plunging  and  struggling  in  an  Alpine  torrent  of 
pasteboard.  All  was  tottering  scenery,  shrieking  supes,  clouds 
of  dust,  terror,  and  confusion.  Some  villain  had  cut  the  cords 
that  upheld  the  mountain-pass.  Our  Contralto  warbler  escaped 
without  a  blemish,  but  the  unfortunate  Prima* was  pulled  out  from 
beneath  the  treacherous  planks  in  hysterics,  and  borne  off  kicking 
violently  in  the  arms  of  stout  peasants.  Of  course  the  play  was 
ended :  but  there  nearly  arose  a  revolution  in  Lima  that  night,  for 
it  was  strcogly  urged  that  the  murderous  Empressario  had  con- 


FONDA  DE  LOS  BANGS. 


443 


spired  against  his  troupe,  although,  poor  man,  he  swore  until 
black  in  the  visage,  that  he  never  dreamed  of  so  heinous  a  crime  ; 
and  if  he  might  be  allowed  a  conjecture  he  should  say,  that  it  had 
been  a  little  ballet  got  up  among  the  Cantatrid  themselves,  to 
get  rid  of  performing  for  a  week  or  two !  but  no  one  believed 
him. 

Our  hotel  was  the  Fonda  de  los  Banos,  the  best  in  Lima — 
faint  praise  this.  It  faces  the  cathedral  in  the  plaza,  and  is  a 
capital  point  of  view  for  strangers  desirous  of  seeing  the  motley 
panorama  of  the  city  from  the  balconies  without  mingling  in  the 
dust  and  fleas  below.  Our  host  was  an  old,  frowsy-wiggcd  French- 
man, pleasant  and  conversible,  who  made  out  the  accounts  with  a 
crotchety  style  of  caligraphy — fives  and  nines  hardly  to  be  dis- 
tinguished apart — although  with  never  an  error  in  your  favor  in 
the  arithmetical  cakuk  at  bottom.  The  lady  of  the  mansion  was  a 
fine-looking,  although  passce  person,  who  presided  at  table  d'hote 
in  grand  tcnu,  and  served  coffee  and  Italia  for  c/tassc,  with  a  little 
dessert  of  monte,  if  called  for  in  the  evening,  at  a  side-table. 
Underneath  the  Fonda  were  billiard  saloons  and  cafes,  with 
warm  baths  adjoining.  This  establishment  was  cared  for  by  a 
vivacious  gentleman,  extremely  popular  with  navy  men,  named 
Senor  Zudcrcl.  I  would  advise  all  homeless  wanderers  jour- 
neying towards  Lima  to  seek  lodgings  at  this  Caravanserai.  I 
was  pleased  myself,  and  shall  ever  bear  Monsieur  and  Madame 
Morin  in  agreeable  recollection,  for  a  correct  knowledge  of  the 
world,  tolerably  well-served  dinners,  expensive  wines,  and  a  just 
appreciation  of  the  sous  cntendu. 

It  was  my  intention  to  have  made  a  hasty  visit  to  Churillos,  a 
small  fishing  village  on  the  sea  coast,  where,  at  certain  seasons, 
all  the  world  resort  for  bathing  and  gaming — both  amusements 


444  CHAPTER  LIV. 


carried  on  day  and  night  without  cessation  ;  but  finding  the  time 
approaching  for  our  departure,  after  spending  eight  days  at  Lima, 
one  afternoon  I  buried  my  shoulders  within  a  glaring  red  poncho — 
and  was  warned  by  Zuderel  "  not  to  carry  much  money,  for  fear  of 
the  ladrones,"  which  I  considered  purely  a  supererogatory  piece 
of  advice,  as  any  economical  person  may  convince  himself  after 
a  few  days  visit  only  ! — El  que  lebe  de  las  pilas  se  queda  en  Lima — 
He  who  drinks  of  the  fountains  will  never  leave  Lima,  is  a  faro- 
rite  proverb.  Inasmuch  as  I  had  only  sparingly  indulged  in  the 
delicious  waters  of  the  city,  save  when  mingled  with  Bordeaux 
and  pure  blocks  of  ice  brought  from  the  Andes,  I  cannot  be 
said  to  have  entirely  destroyed  the  truth  of  the  adage  ;  so,  trot- 
ting leisurely  through  plaza  and  streets — invoking  a  blessing  from 
Our  Lady — I  pursued  my  ride  beyond  the  gates,  steering  for 
Callao.  It  was  thus  I  departed  from  the  "  Paradise  of  women, 
the  purgatory  of  men,  and  hell  of  jackasses!" 
We  sailed  for  Valparaiso. 


CHAPTER   LV. 

WE  found  Valparaiso  very  much  improved  since  our  first  visit, 
more  so,  in  fact,  than  would  bo  generally  believed  for  a  Creole 
town.  Streets  had  been  newly  paved  and  extended,  whole 
squares  of  fine  warehouses,  and  long  rows  of  dwellings  com- 
pleted ;  all  tending,  with  a  rapid  increase  of  population,  to  make 
the  port  most  flourishing.  As  in  the  Islands  and  Callao,  the  dis- 
covery of  the  El  Dorado  of  California  had  thrown  the  entire 
community  into  a  state  of  feverish  excitement,  which  waa 
augmented  by  every  fresh  arrival.  Ships  touching  here,  no 
matter  whither  bound,  or  for  what  intent,  were  either  bought 
before  their  anchors  were  down,  or  chartered  for  passengers  or 
freight.  Day  by  day  vessels  sailed,  loaded  high  up  the  shrouds 
with  any  articles  of  merchandise  that  could  hastily  be  thrown  on 
board.  The  city  was  drained  of  wares  and  goods  of  every 
description ;  merchants,  clerks,  artisans  and  mechanics  were  hur- 
rying, as  fast  as  sails  could  bear  them,  to  the  swamps  and  sands 
of  the  Sacrament-:'.  Fortunes  were  made  in  a  minute,  and  it  only 
appeared  necessary  to  purchase  a  ship  and  cargo  at  any  price,  and 
the  day  or  hour  after  be  offered  twice  the  money  for  the  bargain. 
One  merchant  actually  paid  twenty  thousand  hard  dollars  for  the 
information  contained  in  a  letter  from  San  Francisco — a  more 
valuable  missive  was  probably  never  penned.  The  mania  was 


446  CHAPTER  LV. 


equally  violent  throughout  all  classes  of  the  community — natives, 
foreigners,  men,  .women,  and  children. 

We  mariners  were  merely  lookers  on,  having  neither  cash  nor 
commodities.  Some  of  us  talked  of  deserting,  and  scratching  a 
little  fortune  of  gold  dust  with  our  several  digits ;  others  of 
resigning,  and  seeking  employ  in  the  merchant  service ;  but  in 
the  end  we  bore  the  good  fortune  of  mankind  around  us,  with 
philosophical  equanimity,  and  remained  contented  with  our  lot. 

Notwithstanding  this  auri  sacra  fames,  the  same  generous  hos- 
pitality awaited  us,  at  the  hands  of  our  countrymen,  as  of  old, 
and  we  passed  the  time  delightfully. 

The  rides  around  Valparaiso  are  almost  destitute  of  interest ; 
for  many  leagues  the  main  roads  lead  over  dry  and  hilly  ground, 
with  no  relief  from  their  dullness,  except  an  occasional  glimpse 
from  some  more  elevated  ridge,  of  the  broad  Pacific  or  the  shining 
snow-capped  Cordilleras  far  in  the  interior.  Th  "e  are  neithei 
forests  nor  grasses,  nor  yet  running  water.  Even  in  the  most 
secluded  valleys,  the  herbage  is  pale  and  withered,  and  vegetation 
stunted. 

Excellent  horses  are  easily  found ;  and  after  passing  ovei 
the  paved  streets  at  a  slow  gait,  to  escape  lynx-eyed  serenes,  ever 
on  the  watch  to  recover  a  two-dollar  fine  from  strangers  for  fast 
riding,  you  may  then,  at  early  morn,  before  the  breeze  stirs  the 
fine,  choking  dust,  or  in  the  evening,  when  the  high  winds  have 
expended  their  rage  over  the  Plaiancha  and  Point  of  Angels,  take 
a  lively  gallop  with  some  degree  of  enjoyment.  Our  rides  were 
usually  along  the  Santiago  road  towards  the  post-house,  where  a 
nice  breakfast  was  always  procurable,  through  the  kindness  of  a 
motherly  Yorkshire  dame,  whose  husband  was  at  all  times 


OUR  COUNTRYWOMEN.  447 

particularly  vinous ;  the  breakfast,  however,  never  suffered  on 
that  score. 

The  Chilians,  men  and  women,  ride  admirably ;  but  there  are 
none  who  indulge  in  this  healthful  exercise  to  a  greater  extent, 
and  who  sit  the  horse  more  gracefully  and  securely  than  our  own 
fair  countrywomen  residing  in  Valparaiso  ;  and  with  all  their  mani- 
fold charms,  they  are  accomplished  in  the  proper  understanding 
of  a  pic-uic.  I  am  ignorant  of  the  correct  etymology  of  the  word, 
but  have  heard  it  expounded  as  "  all  ham,  and  no  punch  ;"  be  this 
as  it  may,  these  agreeable  ladies  comprehend  the  thing  thoroughly ; 
they  know  the.  most  sequestered  little  glens  for  leagues  around, 
when  and  where,  and  how  to  go ;  they  have  their  own  spirited 
steeds,  too,  like  their  mistress's  riding  robes,  always  ready.  The 
excursion  is  arranged  in  five  "hiinutes,  so,  cavaliers,  you  have  only 
to  send  for  horses  and  borrow  a  whip,  and  if  you  know  of  any  troupe 
of  more  charming  donas,  pray  don't  keep  it  a  secret. 

Out  of  the  hot  city,  with  veiled  faces— up  ravines  and  down 
dales — leave  the  dusty  road — clear  the  hedges,  and  scamper  over 
the  upland  downs,  until  we  have  lost  sight  of  towns,  suburbs, 
shipping,  and  harbor ;  perhaps  a  pair  of  bright  eyes  looks  back  to  the 
nice  matrons  who  play  propriety — pointing  with  a  little  gauntleted 
hand — "  There  !  in  that  shady  glade,  this  side  the  Rancho" — 
winding  about  the  declivities,  we  reach  the  base  of  a  sheltered 
valley — we  dismount,  tie  the  animals,  and  then  breaking  through 
interlaced  thickets  of  undergrowth  and  herbage,  a  little  trickling 
rill  will  possibly  be  found,  bubbling  deep  down  the  cleft  of  a 
ravine,  on  whoso  margin  is  a  plot  of  grass,  where  we  clear  away 
the  brushwood,  spread  saddle-cloths  for  the  ladies,  and  make  our- 
selves happy. 

Some  one  must  go  to  the  neighboring  farm-house  in  search  of 


448  CHAPTER  LV. 


fruit — not  everybody,  for  there  are  two  country  belles  there,  who 
keep  a  guitar,  and  put  on  airs  of  rustic  coquetry — besides,  it  is 
not  complimentary  to  the  lovely  ladies  we  attend,  to  be  galli- 
vanting or  straying  elsewhere — they  demand,  by  laws  of  chivalry, 
our  homage,  and  they  well  deserve  it.  By  and  by,  there  appears  a 
brown  dame,  with  a  huge  tray  of  biscuits,  peaches,  "  and  a  dish  of 
ripe  strawberries,  all  smothered  in  cream  !"  What  a  perfume  ! 
"  Hand  over  the  alforgas,  those  pockets  attached  to  saddle  hous- 
ings. Oblige  me,  sir,  by  guarding  this  plethoric  napkin  of 
sandwiches  !  Stop  !  here's  another  ;  don't  let  anybody  take 
even  a  bite  until  the  Seiiora  gives  the  word  !  What  is  this  ;  a 
bottle  of  Xeres,  as  I'm  a  sinner — claret,  too  !  Ave  Maria  !  Get 
water  somebody,  and  let  me  show  you  the  art,  acquired  by  long 
practice,  of  pulling  a  cork  without  a  screw.  There  !  click ! 
click  !  crack  !  Cleverly  done,  eh  ?  Don't  cut  your  deli- 
cate fingers,  Sefiorita !  Are  we  ready  ? — we  are,  and  almost 
frantic."  The  time  flits  on  pleasure's  wings — the  shadows  from 
the  crests  of  the  surrounding  heights  are  darkening  the  glen — the 
strawberries  and  sandwiches  are  all  gone,  and  the  bottles  are 
dying  marines. 

"  Come,  girls,"  say  the  Seiloras,  "  we  must  be  in  time  for  din- 
ner. Caballeros  you  will  dine  with  us  ? — they  never  forget  that — 
we  shall  dance  in  the  evening,  but  not  too  late — to-morrow  is 
Sunday."  Now  hurrah  for  the  car r era — race.  Be  under  no 
apprehensions,  my  friends,  when  you  see  those  slight  forms,  with 
streaming  tresses  and  dresses,  flying  by  leap  and  bound  over  the 
narrow  pathways,  rocky  descents  and  water-courses  ! — have  a  care 
to  your  own  horse,  never  mind  your  fair  companions — their  sure- 
footed steeds  would  race  blindfolded,  and,  I  doubt  not,  snap  their 
legs  short  off,  rather  than  injure  the  gentle  beings  who  so  easily 


BALLS  AND  TERTULIAS. 


449 


guide  them  !  We  soon  reach  the  environs  of  the  city,  and  with 
horses  all  in  a  foam,  pace  sedately  through  the. streets,  towards 
the  terraced  residences. 

The  society  of  natives  and  foreigners  is  quite  distinct  in  Val- 
paraiso, and  general  re-unions  only  take  place  at  the  monthly 
Philharmonic  balls.  Those  we  attended  were  very  elegant  and 
select  assemblies,  with  a  large  proportion  of  beautiful  women  :  all 
danced  with  charming  grace,  and  were  most  becomingly  attired 
with  all  the  exquisite  taste  and  refinement  of  French  fashions ;  and 
with  a  fine,  brilliantly-lighted  saloon,  excellent  orchestra,  the 
white  fluttering  dresses  of  the  women,  gayly  contrasting  with  the 
gleaming  lace  and  bullion  of  hosts  of  officers  from  foreign  ships  of 
war,  it  made  altogether  as  inspiriting  and  magnificent  a  display  as 
can  be  found  in  any  part  of  the  world. 

The  natives  are  seen  with  even  more  attractions  in  their  social 
circles.  The  tertulia  is  ever  an  impromptu  affair,  and  nothing 
is  more  calculated  to  preserve  a  happy  current  of  friendly  feeling 
among  the  youth  of  both  sexes.  There  is  no  staid  form  or  cere- 
mony :  people  meet  for  pleasure  in  the  dance  or  love-making — 'tis 
all  the  same — everything  is  frank  and  companionable. 

Once  get  the  entree  and  make  friends  with  the  kind  Senora — 
sip  scalding  mate,  and  never  forget  her  at  supper  at  the  balls,  or 
dukes  for  the  mnas — you  have  the  game  in  your  own  hands,  and 
on  velvet  with  the  dear  young  doncellas,  may  whisper  all  the 
pretty  speeches  imaginable  to  downcast  eyes  at  the  piano  or 
guitar,  or  blushing  cheeks  in  waltz  or  polka  !  I  do  not  believe 
Spanish  girls  often  break  their  hearts — they  ache  sometimes, 
perhaps,  but  are  easily  consoled — and  I  advise  all  who  set  up 
graven  images,  and  who  wish  to  be  in  good  repute  with  dark-eyed 
Creole  maidens,  to  send  anonymous  bouquets  unceasingly,  and  of 


450  CHAPTER  LV. 


course  divulge  the  donors'  names  afterwards — 'tis  a  sure  passport 
to  the  smiles  of  fair  ladies  everywhere,  but  these  dear,  little 
Chilians  will  positively  adore  you. 

In  a  former  sketch  of  Valparaiso,  I  touched  upon  the  quiet, 
cool  retreats  perched  on  the  salient  crests  of  the  adjacent  hills. 
One  of  these  terraces,  Monte  Allegro,  is  the  beauty-spot  of  Valpa- 
raiso. Ah  !  the  agreeable  dinners,  tea-parties,  promenades  and 
dances,  given  there  by  the  charming  residents,  from  the  little  bal- 
conied house  in  the  rear,  to  the  entire  cottage-range  in  front  ! 
Heaven  help  us  !  we  owe  them  many  a  debt  of  gratitude  we  may 
never  be  able  to  repay,  save  in  kindly  remembrance  to  all.  There 
was  one,  too — 

"  Of  all  that  sets  young  hearts  romancing, 
She  was  our  queen — our  rose— our  star  ; 
And  when  she  danced — O  !  Heaven  !  her  dancing  !" — 

Ah !  Dofla  Pepe !  I  may  never  forgive  the  malicious  delight  you 
exhibited  at  the  Filharmonica,  where  the  thin  lady  took  a  first 
lesson  in  the  polka — may  Terpsichore  and  all  the  Graces  of  the 
light  fantastic  toe  befriend  her  ! — but  yet,  although  a  few  months 
have  borne  me  thousands  of  leagues  away,  I  still  preserve  your 
little  flower,  and  shall  ever  remember  our  parting  among  the 
brightest  of  lingering  things  in  Valparaiso. 

Aside  from  the  lovely  living  attractions  of  this  little  cielo, 
it  has  much  else  to  recommend  it.  In  the  calm  nights  you  can 
stand  on  its  lofty  esplanade,  towering  above  the  heart  of  the  city, 
and  look  down  upon  the  world  below.  The  faces  of  the  tops,  with 
the  steep  sides  of  the  quelradas,  are  twinkling  with  myriads 
on  myriads  of  bright  lights — long  streets  and  avenues  are  seen 
coursing  in  the  opposite  direction  along  the  Almendral,  dotted  and 
sparkling  with  cab  and  lantern  hurrying  to  and  fro,  until  far 


MONTE  ALLEGRO.  451 


away,  all  is  blended  in  one  even  line  of  perspective  ;  and  perhaps 
there  is  seen  a  procession  of  flickering  torches  winding  up  the 
Campo  Santo,  bearing  some  unconscious  clay  to  a  last  home  ;  then, 
when  the  guns  from  forts  and  ships  have  ceased  their  everlasting 
peals  among  the  hills,  music  from  different  vessels  of  war  arises 
in  delicious  strains,  clearly  and  distinctly,  from  the  port — while 
their  black  hulls,  illumined  sides,  spars  and  rigging,  are  reposing 
motionless,  with  mazy  shadows  mingling  with  the  starry  reflec- 
tions upon  the  polished  surface  of  the  bay  from  the  blue  vault 
above.  The  whole  scene  is  framed  by  the  crowning  heights 
circling  around  the  city,  and  the  base  is  girdled  by  the  glittering 
waters  of  the  ocean. 

I  was  never  tired  of  musing  over  this  bright  and  varied  pic- 
ture, or  inhaling  the  sweet  perfume  of  the  florapondia  blooming 
on  the  terrace.  It  is  a  spot  to  which  the  innocent  children,  who 
now  sport  there  in  unconscious  gayety,  will  one  day  turn  from  all 
the  toil  and  strife  of  future  years,  and  smother  many  a  sigh  for 
the  joyful  reminiscences  of  their  childhood. 

Adieu  to  thee,  Monte  Allegro !  May  the  dread  earthquake 
never  blanch  the  cheeks  of  those  who  tread  thy  brow,  or  rend 
thy  firm  feet  from  their  foundation. 


CHAPTER    LVI. 

HOMEWARD  BOUND  !  A  loud  report  from  the  frigate's  bow 
gun,  and  before  the  smoke  had  vanished,  the  cornet  was  fluttering 
at  the  mast-head — a  signal  for  sailing.  The  brave  boatswain  and 
his  lusty  mates  blew  ear-splitting  notes  from  deck  to  deck — the 
roar  of  hoarse  voices  resounded  deep  within  the  bowels  of  the 
ship,  "  All  hands,  up  anchor  for  home  !"  The  capstans  spun 
around  like  tops — the  fifers  played  their  merriest  jigs — the  crew 
danced  with  glee — "  pall  the  capstan !"  The  well-worn  sails 
again  fell  from  the  yards,  and  as  the  puffs  of  wind  came  stealthily 
over  the  Point  of  Angels,  the  noble  frigate  turned  slowly  on  her 
keel,  in  gladness  sprang  away,  and  bade  adieu  to  Valparaiso. 

In  a  few  days  the  batteries  of  heavy  guns  were  drawn  in, 
their  frowning  muzzles  lashed  to  the  staunch  bulwarks,  and  the 
windows  of  the  ship  closed  to  the  buffettings  of  the  sea.  We 
passed  in  sight  of  Juan  Fernandez,  and,  soon  after,  the  wind 
befriended  us,  and  with  broad  wings  we  flew  towards  Cape  Horn. 
One  dark  night,  another  of  the  unfortunate  maintop  men  was  lost 
overboard  :  he  had  been  born  and  bred  upon  the  ocean,  and  thus 
singularly  met  his  watery  grave. 

Rain,  snows,  and  storms  came  over  us,  but  on  the  seventeenth 
day  we  doubled  the  tempestuous  Cape  Horn,  where  we  saw  a 


THE  CRUISE  IS  OVER.  453 

dozen  ships,  with  gold  !  gold  !  painted  in  perspective,  on  every 
seam  of  their  broad  topsails.  Leaving  the  Falkland  Islands,  we 
steered  boldly  into  the  Atlantic,  and  went  on  our  swift  course 
joyfully. 

The  strong  favoring  gales  seemed  never  to  tire  in  efforts  to 
urge  us  onward.  The  very  ssa-birds  gave  over  chasing  us,  all 
save  a  venerable  couple  of  grey-backed  albatross,  who  with  inde- 
fatigable energy  followed  us  for  three  thousand  miles.  Again  we 
crossed  the  tropics — the  southern  cross  paled  below  the  horizon — 
the  pole-star,  gleaming  dimly  at  first,  rose  and  rose  until  sparkling 
high  in  the  heavens.  Again  we  splashed  through  the  haunts  of 
flying-fish  and  nautilus,  until,  on  the  sixty-third  day,  there  came 
the  loud  cry  of  "  Land,  ho  !" 

Shortly  after,  our  noble  ship — that  had  borne  us  in  safety  fifty- 
five  thousand  miles — let  fall  her  anchors,  for  the  last  time,  within 
the  waters  of  the  Chesapeake. 


.' 

M 

n> 


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